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the shizzle => the blog pile => Topic started by: comPiler on April 19, 2012, 11:24:36 am
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Training! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/training)
21 December 2011, 12:38 pm
The last few months have been training, training, training. I come from a background of not really training at all, just climbing lots and the occasional pull up….so I have been surprised by how much I am enjoying it! I have done bits and bobs – 6 weeks here and there – in the past, but nothing as full on as this. Part of my decision to immerse myself in training was because I am now a student again. I am studying part time for an MSc in Integrative Counselling and Psychotherapy and it is a lot easier to do training sessions around uni work than it is to go out climbing for the day and the course also means I am at home in Sheffield, not gallivanting around Europe. The other part of the decision came from a desire to do better in the Bouldering World Cup circuit this year. I have done a few events in the last three years but I have always competed in them off the back of long outdoor trips – which isn’t necessarily bad – but isn’t the perfect preparation….. Thirdly, after the comps are pretty much over (after the Vail event) I am going to stay in Colorado for a couple of months to get my outside climbing fix for 2012. So, all in all, lots of reasons to get psyched and get better.
So the training. Essentially I have been a pupil of David Mason who has been helping me out with a training programme. It all began in September with 8 weeks of conditioning. This was a bit of a trial and error phase and I was a guinea pig for ideas. The guinea pig expired. I overdid it and began to fatigue. I have never experienced real fatigue before and it was an odd experience for me. I was tired all the time but the oddest thing was that I began to cry randomly for no reason (quite often during or after any kind of training). I had nothing to cry about so this began to ring alarm bells and I cut the training down. At this point I began to look more closely at my nutrition. The British Team trainings were just beginning and through the team I received a lot of help from Rebecca Dent (the team nutritionist) who has been brilliant. I also got in touch with Optimum Nutrition and Nick and Sara have been really supportive too, providing me with supplements so that I can recover better and get the most out of my training. The crying stopped! Now I have moved onto my strength phase which is more my kind of thing and I am really enjoying it. At the moment I am doing two fingerboard sessions a week (which are made up of assisted one arm pull ups, weighted pull up pyramids and pull downs), two weights sessions a week (exercises like bench press, bicep curls, squats, roll outs and flies), two or three climbing sessions a week and three runs a week to help my fitness. One thing I can really recommend for training is keeping a diary; it helps you stay organised and (more importantly) keeps you psyched as it shows your progress right there on the page in front of you (even if it’s minute).
I’m looking forward to a bit of a break over Christmas in London with a couple of WestWay sessions, New Year in Fontainebleau (!!) and then into a power phase in January……
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Font (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/font)
14 January 2012, 12:23 pm
After the joys of a decadent festive season in London I headed out with friends to Fontainebleau to celebrate the New Year and do some bouldering. As we drove there, it was raining; when we got there, it was raining; and for the first four days, it rained. Fontainebleau is an amazing climbing venue, one of the best in the world but the one thing that brings it down is the weather. During our trip of seven days we had two and a half days climbing, which is better than nothing and worth the wait. I was lucky enough to try Irreversible, a high ball 7C at Manoury. It is a great line, a bit scary and brilliant climbing. After taking two falls from the last hard move, I finished the climb with my heart in my mouth and my hands a bit shaky! On the last day of the trip I went back to try again on Big Golden at Cuvier Rempart. I had tried this climb one afternoon earlier in the trip and was astonished to find I could now do some moves on it that I had, on previous trips to Font, never managed. Filled with psyche I tried to piece it together and, after a last change in beta, I found myself topping out. Very happy, I really thought I may never do this problem.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/MinaBig1.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/MinaBig1.jpg)
Big Golden, Photo by Bart van Raaij
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/MinaGold1.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/MinaGold1.jpg)
Big Golden, Photo Bart van Raaij
Back in the UK, the weather has suddenly turned nice. Blue skies and cold air inspired me to head out to a grit problem I had failed on a year or so ago – Suavito (7B). This problem is fairly high and committing at the top, requiring a big throw and a big span. I was psyched to try it again and this time (after one fall landing flat on my back!) I managed to climb it. Hopefully this weather will continue…..
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Cold Temps and Bad Piercings (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/cold-temps-and-bad-piercings)
13 February 2012, 3:13 pm
The temperatures have dropped in the last few weeks here in the UK, giving us brilliant conditions. However, although I don’t want to be negative, these temperatures have been too cold for me. I am a lucky climber in that I have pretty durable, strong, non-sweaty, non-splitting skin on my fingertips, thus meaning that I don’t always need the coldest of cold days to feel good friction. Having said this, I have been out and about on the rocks and have climbed some cool problems like Flatworld (7b+) at Baslow. I have also been up to sample some problems in Northumberland, spending a couple of days at Bowden Doors. I was really impressed with the area and am keen to go back to climb some more.
I have also been struggling a bit lately to train/climb as much as I would like due to a recurrent shoulder/neck problem – nerve pain down my arm with numbness, tingling and weakness. I have been seeing a Chiropractor (Matt Pigden at Element Chiropratic Clinic in Belper) and I was doing very well with recovery before Christmas, only to have a bad relapse in the last few weeks. Initially, when I first saw Matt, he tested out how my piercings may be affecting my neural system and found that removing my earlobe piercings and tongue piercing had a dramatic effect, instantly improving my performance on specific proprioceptive muscle tests. He also tested my nose piercing but back then it seemed not to be an issue. My shoulder/neck pain had settled down dramatically until this recent relapse. The sudden change for the worse didn’t seem to make sense so Matt retested my remaining nose stud and we found that all of a sudden it too was having an impact. Matt explained that previously it may not have shown up as the tongue piercing was the main stress on my nervous system but when that settled and when I increased my training it seemed it was stressing my system. The day before seeing Matt and removing this piercing I had struggled to climb an easy circuit at the Climbing Works because of the pain but the next day I was on the 45 degree board, feeling strong and pain free! Very interesting. I will never be getting a piercing again. Obviously there will be skeptics to these ideas, all I can say is that it has been an eye opening experience for me and all I can report are the results!
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Power Endurance Training Begins… (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/power-endurance-training-begins)
21 February 2012, 11:06 am
I have just come to the end of my power phase in training; a 6 week block that has seen me doing assisted one armers, weights, campussing and lots of power climbing. So now, with David’s help and planning, I am moving on to power endurance (PE). The idea behind all this training is to be strong for the World cup circuit this year and also for our trip to Colorado this summer- so a lot to be excited for and a lot to persuade me to do “just one more” in my training.
This is the first time I have ever trained in an organised way for so long. I have done the odd few weeks of this and that over the years but nothing to this degree. It will be interesting to see how it benefits, I think already I am a lot stronger for it. One of the great things I find when training is to keep a record in some kind of diary. Mine is called “Mina’s training book of self-loathing”! It helps to look back and see improvement and also to write down when you train, what you eat etc.
Yesterday, in preparation for PE, I went to see Tom Randall and have a go at his power endurance tests on his board. We looked at anerobic capacity and also low end aerobic capacity. This essentially looks at the power end and the endurance end of PE. We also did a one arm strength test to put the endurance in the context of my strength; thus enabling us to get an idea of my efficiency when climbing. Hopefully, after 8 weeks of training I will do these again and be better!
So this week is the beginning of my PE phase; today is the first proper training session. Wish me luck!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/TRAINING-FACES1.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/TRAINING-FACES1.jpg)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Team training and some beautiful days… (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/team-training-and-some-beautiful-days)
7 March 2012, 11:14 am
I’ll start with team training. Our most recent one was at Boulder Uk and it was a really good day. I’m sure there is some rule whereby team trainings are always on good weather days which makes it seem more important that they feel worthwhile and helpful – this one certainly was. The GBR Bouldering team has improved so much in the past couple of years, our manager Nick Clement has been great and has expanded our team to include a Nutritionist (Rebecca Dent), a Sports Psychologist (Victoria Cassell), a Sports Scientist (Dominic White), a Chiropractor (Matt Pigden) and a Coach (David Mason). With all these people in place, how could we fail?!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSC_67991.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSC_67991.jpg)
This training session we did competition simulation sets in the morning and afternoon – helping us to practice and get used to the 5 on/ 5 off format and working our power endurance. We also each get to have a 1:1 with any of the above mentioned if we want. It is a very supportive set up, especially given that all the above help us for free as the team has limited funding. All in all, a good day.
Since my last blog I have been training power endurance like there is no tomorrow, exhausting myself with 4×4 circuits on the wave at the Foundry. For those of you that don’t frequent this wall, I recommend it. It is a good place to get strong, very basic climbing on a variety of holds on steep ground.
Today, however, I took the morning to go out on the grit. It was a beautiful day and I went to try The Terrace (7C) at Burbage North. This problem is not much to look at….it is small and a bit pokey but it actually climbs really nicely and is right on the doorstep – perfect if you only have a couple of hours. I’m happy to say it went well and I made it to the top after some fighting! Here are some pics and I will put up a video when we have worked out how to put it together (new camera….) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSC_01081.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSC_01081.jpg)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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CWIF 2012 (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/cwif-2012)
15 March 2012, 1:01 pm
After lots of training, I was excited for this year’s Climbing Works International Festival. I guess I was hopeful that I would feel stronger than I had before and would be able to hold my own and do well. Did I achieve this? Yes I think I did, but I would be lying if I didn’t admit I was a bit disappointed too. Competitions are an odd environment, you only have that 5 minutes, only you’re own beta and there is no room for mistakes.
I hate the qualifying round, it is so nerve racking. I was in the team event as well as competing individually and this made a huge difference to my enjoyment of that first stage. It is much more fun going around as a group and can feel more like it’s just another climbing session at the wall. I can imagine that people may think this format is a lot less scary than the semi-final or final format but for me it is much worse. I think it’s because you only have three goes, in the IFSC format I feel more like I have had a good shot at the problem.
I went into the semi-finals quite nervous – I really wanted to make the finals but was well aware that there was a strong group of girls (Shauna, Alex, Melanie, Anne-Laure, Clementine and Leah) who were also vying for one of those 6 spaces. The semi’s went fairly well for me, I flashed two problems out of four and went into the finals in third place.
When the finals came round I was excited. My aims were not unrealistic – I wanted to maintain my third place. I know that Shauna and Alex are a step up from me and I was psyched to be placed just behind. The finals did’t exactly go to plan. First of all I had a nightmare on the slab, barely able to get off the floor. The second problem I flailed around on, unable to do a burly move. I was filled with relief when I topped out on the fourth, and finally the fifth just felt too hard. I ended up in fourth place, a bit frustrated but also happy to have done one of them. Hats of to all the girls who climbed in the finals, good efforts all round!
Frustratingly I went back to those problems two days later and found them not so challenging; even the last one I was able to do all the moves on. But that is the skill of competition climbing: doing it then and there in that 5 mins. Still, there are things to be learned from going back to the problems and working out what you didn’t work out on the day. The positive’s I have taken are that those problems were not way too hard for me and therefore the competition is not too far ahead of me….next time! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/ALM_7484-Edit-300x198.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/ALM_7484-Edit.jpg)Women's Final Problem No. 2, Photo by Alex Messenger
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Training article (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/training-article)
24 March 2012, 10:39 am
Check out this training article on rockclimbinguk.com http://rockclimbinguk.co.uk/mina-leslie-wujastyk-on-her-bouldering-training/
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Weekend in the County and a spot of fitness testing! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/weekend-in-the-county-and-a-spot-of-fitness-testing)
6 April 2012, 12:18 pm
On Friday morning David and I packed up the van and drove to the County for the weekend. We decided to head to Hepburn to have a look around as neither of us had climbed there before and we had heard good things. When we got there it was pretty warm but we headed up the hill to have a nosey at some problems. One of the problems I had heard about was Preparation H, an 8A (/7C+) line up a big sandstone bloc. It was brilliant to look at and I was psyched immediately! We warmed up on some cool problems, and then went and had a look at the Titanic boulder nearby. A fun 7A+ bloc with a pockety sit start into a lay back arete, this was a good start to the day. We then headed over to Preparation H to begin working it out. David decided to wait for it to cool down a bit but I was overexcited (and generally have pretty good skin) so I got stuck in. The crux of the problem soon became clear – a difficult foot movement early on, strenuous but do-able. David pushed me through the start so I could have a go at the end part and having sussed it I had a rest before giving it a go. I was stunned on my first go after a rest to find myself through the crux and moving onto the slopers…and to the top! Very happy to do this boulder (albeit in a bit of a shaky fashion -my hands were sliding on the warm holds at the top!). Feeling in high spirits I then did Nothern Soul (7A+) next to it, a very cool high problem with a bit of a scary top, and Trivial Pursuit (7C), another brilliant problem. David wasn’t having much luck due to warm holds, bad skin and tape so he decided to stop and try again on a colder day- the next day he did all the mentioned problems!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/PrepH_31-214x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/PrepH_31.jpg)
Preparation H. Courtesy of http://www.jonathan-creative.com/ (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/PrepH_31.jpg)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/PrepH_21-215x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/PrepH_21.jpg)
Preparation H. Courtesy of http://www.jonathan-creative.com/
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Preparation-H-1-small-682x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Preparation-H-1-small.jpg)
David on Preparation H. Photo courtesy of Andy Jennings
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Northern-Soul-4-small.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Northern-Soul-4-small.jpg)
David on Northern Soul. Photo courtesy of Andy Jennings
After what turned out to be a tiring Friday, we camped in the van and then I headed off early in the morning to Teeside University for Team Training. This training was fitness testing. To give it a context, we do a session here in October and then again in March before the season starts. The October testing helps us to highlight training goals and weaknesses and the March one shows us if we have improved or not! To cut a long story short I had improved on the majority of the tests and by quite a substantial amount (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif) This was really reassuring as I have busted a gut training this year! One of my personal enemies has been the bleep test – for those of you who have taken it I am sure you will agree it is an evil thing. It aims to measure your aerobic capacity through a running test that gradually speeds up until you drop out from fatigue or are unable to make the distance in time. A cruel business. In October I was appalling in this test as I hadn’t done any running or aerobic training for some time. I am happy to say that I did a lot better this time – running all winter (even in the snow!) has paid off (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif) . Thanks to Dom, Rebecca and the Teeside team for all their help and support.
After this day at Teeside University I went back to the County to meet up with David, Andy, Rob and Lee. While I had been at Teeside, David had been not only to Hepburn but also to Back Bowden and had successfully climbed County Ethics – a problem I was keen to try. On Sunday morning we headed back to the problem so I could have a little go. This problem is high! I tired the start but I found myself at a move I could not commit to without having tried the top so I popped a harness on and went to have a look. I brushed the holds and did the top moves on a rope absolutely fine, including a big move that, when held, signals the end of the hard section. I tried it from the bottom but again I stuggled to commit to the big move a number of times, jumping off onto the pads. It is very frustrating when the main thing holding you back is mental not physical. I got frustrated and got on one more time with my head in a good place – I went for the move and held it but my foot popped off and I lost the hold as I readjusted my grip! Gutted. I took the fall and was fine but mentally I was drained. Another time, another trip!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_5323-200x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/IMG_5323.jpg)Me on County Ethics. Photo courtesy of Mark Savage. http://marksavagephotography.blogspot.co.uk/
Videos to come!
Now I am back in Sheffield, getting nervous and psyched for the first World Cup of 2012 in China. Alex and I fly next week, wish us luck!
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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It’s a long way home from China! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/its-a-long-way-home-from-china)
17 April 2012, 5:11 pm
This year I was given the opportunity to go to China for the first World Cup event of 2012. Originally I wasn’t planning to go – it is a long way, very expensive and, although I enjoy them, my strengths do not lie in competition climbing. However, Alex Puccio (who has been living in the UK for some time now) got some funding from her sponsor Fila to go to the competition and they agreed to pay for someone else to go with her. As many may know, Alex’s boyfirend Chris Web-Parsons hurt his shoulder at the CWIF in Sheffield and was not feeling up to it – so Alex kindly offered the place to me. What a great opportunity, there was no decision process! I was excited for the competition but also for the experience of going to a new place.
It was a long journey…two flights, 12 hours air time, 7 hour time difference. When the qualifiers came around I was pretty tired but I’m sure everyone else was too. The competition didn’t go very well for me at all. In the qualifiers I did 2 out of 5 problems, touching the last hold of 2 of the ones I didn’t complete – very frustrating! I made it to the semi finals but I struggled even more there, only making one bonus hold! I ended up in 17th place, frustrated and a bit disappointed…..but c’est la vie, we can’t always have the things we want and this one was just not for me. I am going to put it behind me and try again this weekend in Slovenia! A big well done to Shauna Coxsey who ended up in 4th place (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
On the upside, I got to see some of China which was great. Chongqing is a huge city, with a population of around 5 million. The traffic is crazy, there are sky high blocks of flats wherever you look and you get stared at A LOT if you’re blonde! The people were freindly, consistently helpful and they put on a great competition for us…perhaps we will be there again next year!
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Video from the County (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/video-from-the-county)
19 April 2012, 7:29 am
Mina in the County (http://vimeo.com/40620122) from mina leslie-wujastyk (http://vimeo.com/user5367259) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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:strongbench: :2thumbsup:
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Love the music on this as well.
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Both of these problems look top notch but especially 'County Ethics', what a line!!
Top of the tick list now.
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Nice air time of county :thumbsup: 4 :strongbench:
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Slovenia WC (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/slovenia-wc)
25 April 2012, 11:26 am
Where do I start?! The last couple of weeks has been pretty heavy with a trip to China, a flying visit home, a funeral in Germany and a competition the next day in Slovenia. It felt like a bit of a handful but I was doing okay. I arrived at the competition feeling better than expected and I thought “yeah this could go well”.
Because there were so many competitors, we were split into two groups; I was in group A. Each group has different problems and to make semis you need to make top 10 in your group. Some of the problems are similar but it is really two different competitions, with people placed evenly in the groups depending on their ranking. I won’t go into the problems individually but I ended up topping out on one problem. I was disappointed with my performance but I have to remind myself that to make the top 10 in my group you only needed two tops. So although my placing puts me miles away from where I wanted, I was only one problem away.
This way of looking at it has taken me a few days. I have a habit of being very hard on myself, instantly thinking I am useless when in fact I am very capable. I have decided not to do the Vienna round of the WCs because my head needed a break. I lost my psyche and there is no point competing without it. Since being home I have come to realise that physically I am in good shape but I have neglected to work on the mental strength required in competition climbing. It turns out positive thinking in the face of disappointment is pretty hard. And going out confident (truly confident) is even harder.
I have decided to do the Innsbruck round in a few weeks and in that time I am going back to training, climbing outside and also looking at how I can psychologically help myself. It should be interesting….
A big well done to Shauna Coxsey, an inspiration to us all (physically and mentally).
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Innsbruck WC (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/innsbruck-wc)
21 May 2012, 1:35 pm
Where do I start? After a bit of a shoddy performance in Slovenia, I decided not to do the Vienna WC, to give myself a break. I spent the month between Slovenia and Innsbruck doing lots of things; running, swimming, climbing, finishing off uni work, training in my cellar and looking at the mental side of climbing. I won’t go into too much detail but working on the mental aspect of competition climbing really helped me. I don’t really struggle with it outdoors, something is different there. But at competitions, my head really got in way. After doing some mental training and prep with two friends, I felt much better prepared for Innsbruck. My goal for the competition was to enjoy it, avoid negative self talk and to be happy with myself whatever my result. I managed it, I thoroughly enjoyed the competition and I even did ok too, ending up in 24th. Definitely some silly mistakes in there and I felt I was strong enough to do better, but that’s good – I can work with that!
It has given me what feels like a new lease of life in competition. It is much less intimidating knowing I have the tools to stop myself spiraling into a negative pattern of self loathing. I feel like I have just decided to be a bit kinder to myself – well worth doing (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif) . My Mum always used to say “be kind to yourself” and I think that, although I knew what she meant, I have only just (at a ripe 25 years…) started to do it. Well, better late than never I suppose!
In terms of our team, it was a great event! 3 Brits in the final and Shauna on the podium again! Well done everyone (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
I’m back at home now, packing for a summer in Colorado! Starting the trip with the BWC in Vail, we will then stay in Boulder for some long awaited rock climbing! Can’t wait for both the comp and the rock.
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Disappearing into thin air (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/disappearing-into-thin-air)
28 May 2012, 4:46 pm
We left for Colorado on the 24th May from London and arrived that evening in Boulder, tired (our body clocks were 7hrs forward) but glad to be off planes! We spent our first day sorting out the van we bought out here, a 1992 GMC van, a beautifully brutish thing. It was surprisingly easy to do actually, you need insurance, a smog test and then new plates – all do-able in half a day. We were too tired to head out so we rested up and headed to Rocky Mountain National Park the next day.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/GMC-2-small-300x200.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/GMC-2-small.jpg) Our Van!
We headed up to an area called Emerald Lake which sits at about 10,000ft. The walk in was beautiful, about 40 mins fairly uphill and we took it steady to get used to the altitude. The area seemed pretty small but with some good climbs. We warmed up on a nice V5 called The Kind before going to try Wispers of Wisdom, a really cool looking V10. I won’t go into moves but this is a great problem, it looks good and the climbing is fun and powerful. Neither of us managed to do it but I am psyched to go back and finish it. After trying that for a while, we went over to the Large Boulder and tried a V9 called Tommy’s Arete. This was a nice surprise, fun climbing followed by a slightly nerve racking top out! We both managed to do it, with some serious huffing and puffing (the altitude really gets you when you put more than 3 moves together!).
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Dream-Lake-small-300x200.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Dream-Lake-small.jpg) Dream Lake, on the walk up to Emerald Lake (RMNP)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Tommys-arete-Mina-small-300x200.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Tommys-arete-Mina-small.jpg) Tommy’s Arete
The next day we went with Jackie and Chris (who we are staying with) to an area called Wild Basin. This has a relatively flat walk in but we did some boulder searching on the hill so a fair bit of walking! When we settled at the main area it looked pretty disappointing to begin with but ended up being pretty fun. I don’t think it’s the best rock around but it made for a good day out. David and Chris tried a hard looking V12 called Mini Compressor while I spent some time working a steep V10 called Macho Man which is long, with some big moves. Really fun to try, I would like to go back to that one too! At the end of the day we both did a nice V9 called The Hamburglarer which was pretty fun. I would post a picture but we forgot to put the battery in the camera…….
So rest day today and then I think we will head to Mount Evans tomorrow……
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Vail WC and a day at Lincoln (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/vail-wc-and-a-day-at-lincoln)
6 June 2012, 4:47 am
Having arrived and spent a few days in Colorado, I was really psyched to climb on rock so it was a bit strange to put that on hold and head to Vail for the World Cup. Don’t get me wrong, I was psyched for the competition but it was an odd transfer from being really excited for rock to getting ready to try hard on plastic. We set off from Boulder with a van full of people and it looked to be a good weekend; everyone was feeling good, the weather was nice and the views on the drive spectacular.
I was excited for the qualifiing round, in a good mood and ready to do my best. I really enjoyed this round, I felt I climbed well although I could have climbed better…I have a tendency to mess up on the last moves of problems. I am still not sure if this is often because the last moves are really hard or if I psyche myself out when I get there. Perhaps a combination. The third problem was the highlight of the whole weekend for me. It was a backwards double dyno out of a roof with a burly, basic finish up a steep wall. I looked at the problem, pulled into the start position for the jump and thought “hmmm this might be beyond me but I’ll have a throw” . I caught the jump first go and pushed throught to the top, suprising myself by flashing the problem. I can’t describe the adrenalin and psyche that I had at that moment, that must be what it feels like to be one of the top people that just pulls it out of the bag all the time!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Problem-3-FLASH-small1-200x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Problem-3-FLASH-small1.jpg) Problem 3 (qualifiers), Photo by David Mason
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/mina_qual3-small-199x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/mina_qual3-small.jpg)
Problem 1 (qualifiers), Photo Will Hummel
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/mina_semi2-small1-200x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/mina_semi2-small1.jpg)
Problem 4 (semi finals), Photo by Will Hummel
I qualified for the semi finals in 16th place. Very happy. I had acheived my goal by making the semis but I was still eager to do well the next day. I won’t go into tons of detail but I didn’t climb very well in the semis. I made lots of silly mistakes, misread the problems and generally just didn’t sort myself out. I am not sure what went wrong really, I don’t think the problems were far beyond me…I just seemed to be missing some kind of something!
Well done again to Shauna who keeps doing brilliantly!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Podium-265x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Podium.jpg)
Shauna on the Podium, Photo by David Mason
We spent the next day chilling before heading back to Boulder. On the monday we went up to Lincoln Lake, a beautiful location. You park at about 13,000ft and walk down to climb just below 12,000ft. The air feels really thin up there and you really notice it on the walk back up to the car! The climbing there was better than I expected and I am psyched to go back to finish off a cool problem that I nearly did. As I didn’t actually get up anything that day all I have to offer for the end of this blog is some footage of some pretty cool (I’m sure you’ll agree…) dance moves that I was taught by Chris Webb-Parsons. To give it a context, you must know that I have “Kiss” by Prince playing though headphones while I’m doing it (if you play the song while watching it it works a lot better)….see if you can spot the following moves:
1. Supermarket shopping
2. Hanging up washing.
3. Feeding the chickens.
4. Mowing the lawn (first getting the mower going..)
5. Driving a bus.
Filmed by the infamous Shauna Coxsey
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Colorado Climbing (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/colorado-climbing)
19 June 2012, 6:13 pm
Since I last blogged we have been out in Colorado, climbing as much as possible! We have been staying in Boulder and I really like it as a town; good climbing scene, nice people, good coffee! And, of course, in one direction you have Rocky Mountain National Park and in the other, Mount Evans, Guanella Pass and Lincoln Lake. Not bad. The only negative thing I can find is the amount of driving, the park is the closest of those listed and takes an hour to get to at least. But that is nothing really and we get laughed at for thinking that is long, us English are just not used to long drives American style!
I’m not sure where to start…we have had lots of great days out. There are lots of boulders I am psyched to climb here but I guess I will talk about the ones I just managed and hopefully I will have the opportunity to do the ones I have not yet managed soon!
I will start with Guanella Pass. We arranged to go a week or so ago with Angie as she had tried a problem there and wanted to go back for it. The area is just past Mount Evans and is right by the road (a nice break from the long walks!). It isn’t a very big area but it has some good problems. Angie was trying Mind Matters, a V12 that goes up the centre of a big boulder. The problem centres around a hard move from a bad pinch and makes for great climbing. David, Shauna and I tried the moves on the problem and were all very keen to try it again. Angie sent it that day, very impressive to watch especially because it was a very hot day. We went back a week later (in the evening for the colder temps) and all three of us managed to climb it! Mine was very much a “one more go” moment when I was really tired so I was especailly surprised and happy to find myself on top of thr boulder.
Here is a little video:
Mind Matters V12, Guanella Pass (http://vimeo.com/44168064) from mina leslie-wujastyk (http://vimeo.com/user5367259) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
One rest day and then we headed back to Lincoln Lake. I had two problems I wanted to do this day, both I had tried before and was keen to finish. The first, Phobos is an overhanging V10 with big moves – not usually my forte….but really fun climbing! On my first session I had been falling off the last hard section so I was positive and hoped that it would go down fairly quickly. It was not to be so. I had a real fight lined up! I dropped the end section multiple times, I even got past the hard climbing once and my foot popped on the easier mantle section. It was going to be a battle. I had a 30 minute rest and then had another go. Fell again. One more try and I was finally topping out! I was so exhausted by this point (bear in mind all this is going on at an elevation of 12,000 ish ft).
I watched other people for a while and rested, gearing up to try Unshackled, my second aim for the day. I was pretty tired by the time we got to the boulder and it was getting pretty dark. Unshackled is a V9/10 which follows a crackline through a steep roof.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/MIna-Unshackled-small-300x200.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/MIna-Unshackled-small.jpg)Unshackled (V9/10) the first day I tried it, Lincoln Lake. Photo David Mason
I had tried it before and got very close but I was very tired now and didn’t have another Phobos-esque fight left in me. I didn’t warm up again, I just pulled on and had a go. I tried hard and somehow ended up on top. My fingers went numb at the end and I had horrible hot aches after but I was happy to have done it and not to have another epic. All that was left was the walk out….
Here is a little video from the day:
Little Days Out, A Summer in Colorado: Part 2 (http://vimeo.com/44264074) from mina leslie-wujastyk (http://vimeo.com/user5367259) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
Here is another video from earlier in the trip too:
Little Days Out, A Summer in Colorado: Part 1 (http://vimeo.com/43853085) from mina leslie-wujastyk (http://vimeo.com/user5367259) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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From hot and sweaty Colorado to rain soaked Sheffield (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/from-hot-sweaty-colorado-to-rain-soaked-sheffield)
9 July 2012, 3:11 pm
A lot has changed since I last blogged. Colorado continued to heat up and it started to get unbearable (for us English who are used to the cold…). It was in and around 40 degrees most days in Boulder, a bit cooler in the park but still pretty warm. We started climbing a lot in Upper and Lower Chaos to get the cooler temperatures, heading out in the afternoon so that we could climb in the evenings and then at night by torchlight. We got some great climbing in and I really enjoyed the boulders at those areas; cool lines with really good moves.
However the heat eventually got too much for us and we decided to head home early, with a plan to return in September for a couple of weeks before heading to Joe’s Valley. Here is a video from our last period of time climbing in the Park:
Little Days Out, A Summer in Colorado: Part 3 (http://vimeo.com/44940288)
Before heading back to the UK, we went and spent a couple of days in Independence Pass with climber Chris Schulte and Photographer Keith Ladzinski. Chris has done a lot of developing in this area and has put up some really good climbs including some amazing problems in what is known as the Ice Caves. The granite is flawlessly smooth creating some unique and inspiring features. Unfortunately it rained while we were there rendering it un-climbable. There was just enough time for Keith to get pictures for a Rock and Ice article before we moved on. Just up the hill there is Gollom’s Cave, a 15ft horizontal roof with two of Chris’s problems on it. I tried Choke Hold, a V10 with a brilliant pinch hold in the middle of the roof. I would highly recommend this problem; fun and involved climbing. Here is a little video of me doing it:
Choke Hold (V10) at Independance Pass, Colorado. (http://vimeo.com/44885513)
Before leaving the US I did some training with Kris Peters at Movement Climbing Gym in Boulder. It was a great session, really hard and very constructive, thanks again Kris! I wish I had some photos actually, to show the immense effort we all put in that day!
Shortly afterwards, we headed back to rainy Sheffield. The rain felt like bliss after the heat, it was so nice to layer up and feel cosy again! Obviously now, (less than a week later), the rain is somewhat frustrating.
We arrived back in Sheffield on Tuesday night, just before the British Championships were due to be held on the Saturday. I hadn’t planned to be around to compete but as we were back I thought I would have a go. I was still feeling the jet lag a bit but not enough to put me off. The day started well with some fun qualifying problems, I felt strong and fairly confident (which is good for me in competitions). I qualified in 3rd place for the finals, with Shauna and I being the only ones to complete all the qualifying blocs. This was a good confidence boost for me and I was psyched to get to climb again. The finals were a mixture of things for me: enjoyment, exhilaration, frustration and acceptance. I felt frustrated on blocs 2 and 3 for my lack of thought and problem reading skills but that is all part of the game and those are areas I need to develop.
However, on the whole I felt strong and probably for the first time I felt like I wasn’t out of my depth in the field of strong women; I felt I belonged there with them and I could do my best alongside them. I was a bit disappointed with 4th place but that feeling of competence and strength is what I choose to take away from this weekend. Back to the drawing board for some more training ideas……
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/BBcs-2012..-300x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/BBcs-2012...jpg)
Me on the first finals problem.
Photo courtesy of Craig Antcliff/ Five Finger Thing
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/BBCs-2012-200x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/BBCs-2012.jpg)
Me ecstatic and relieved after flashing problem 4 in the finals.
Photo courtesy of Paul Bennett
http://www.paulbennettphotography.co.uk/ (http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http://www.paulbennettphotography.co.uk/&h=HAQFFcYuU)
Thanks to everyone for all your support and well done to Dave Barrans and Shauna Coxsey who climbed brilliantly to become our Champs!
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Off to Magic Woods! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/off-to-magic-woods)
30 July 2012, 8:34 am
Just a quick blog….
I have just got back from a weekend in London. It is buzzing down there with talk of Olympics and the excitment really rubs off. I was lucky enough to watch the torch being carried down the Thames in an amazingly ornate boat. What a time to be an Olymipic athlete! It makes me wonder how climbing would change as a sport if it became part of this colossal event.
But enough of my wonderings. I am off to Magic Woods; a short last minute trip from today until Friday! I am going to do some filming for Lightshed Pictures (http://lightshedpictures.wordpress.com/) who are making a film about UK female climbers. It was really flattering to be asked to be a part of this and I am very grateul for the opportunity to return to such a beautiul place (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif) So three days in the woods! I’m excited.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Kit-300x190.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Kit.jpg)My gear all packed up!
I have been training hard recently with the things I am psyched for in the Peak being wet. It has been good for me, albeit frustrating. I feel the strongest that I think I ever have and I have thoroughly enjoyed the process. So a win: win situation really.
A busy month ahead also holds the Addidas Rockstars event in Stuttgart, a week in Font and the Munich World Cup….I’ll keep you posted!
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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A Whirlwind Trip to Magic Woods (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/a-whirlwind-trip-to-magic-woods)
6 August 2012, 9:42 am
What a week! Jen Randall (http://alloureggs.wordpress.com/tag/magic-wood) (http://alloureggs.wordpress.com/tag/magic-wood/) is making a film about female UK climbers and was planning to film Shauna in Magic Woods for 3 days. As many of you will know, Shauna has broken her leg and so Jen needed someone to fill her spot in the film. She got in contact with me last Thursday and by Monday night I was in Milan Malpensa Airport to meet her.
We had three days in Magic to film as many cool boulders as possible. I had been to Magic before, about 4 years ago and so we were able to film some things I had done before as well as some new things. I was really psyched, I love Magic Woods. It’s a beautiful place and I felt so happy to be able to spend some more time there. I wish I had had longer than 3 days, I could easily have stayed 3 weeks!
It was a tiring few days, but really fun. I had never met Jen before or her boyfriend Al but we hit it off really well from the start. It made for a relaxing, fun trip and I feel I have made some good friends from it (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
In terms of climbing I was happy to do some climbs I hadn’t done before: Piranja (7C), Rhythmo (7C) and Jack the Chipper (7C – Flash) and also to try some harder things. I tried Jack’s Broken Heart and Pura Vida, both great problems. I think both are doable for me but I needed a bit more time. Need to start planning a trip back….
Here are some stills from Jen’s filming:
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/jack_the_chipper-300x252.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/jack_the_chipper.jpg)
Jack the Chipper (7C), Film still courtesy of Jen Randall
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/pirana-300x233.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/pirana.jpg)
Piranja (7C), film still courtesy of Jen Randall
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/rythmo-300x269.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/rythmo.jpg)
Rhythmo (7C), film still courtesy of Jen Randall
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/supernova-300x157.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/supernova.jpg)
Supernova (7C), film still courtesy of Jen Randall
Now I have a couple of days at home before heading to Stuttgart for the Rockmasters event! I have also been invited to take part in a competition in Norway on the 8th Sept this year which is exciting!
http://www.facebook.com/events/275652435866676/
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Addidas Rockstars Event and a few hot days in Fontainebleau (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/addidas-rockstars-event-and-a-few-hot-days-in-fontainebleau)
19 August 2012, 3:34 pm
I’m not sure where to start….Addidas Rockstars was a new thing for me, I didn’t do the event last year so I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. I arrived on the Thursday lunchtime and was picked up from the airport by an addidas representative and driven to the hotel. That was very nice in itself, it was the beginning of a weekend of being thoroughly looked after. We were taken out to a great restaurant in Stuttgart that evening and treated to a meal before being transported back to the hotel in a new addidas coach.
The next day we had a leisurely start before the qualifying round began. At this event it was possible to view the blocs, albeit from a distance, before you went into isolation. This was great for me as I think it removed some anxiety and we were able to share ideas about how to climb the blocs. I didn’t actually climb all of them in the way I thought I would but I think the reduction in nerves really helped. In most competitions, when you do not get to see the blocs beforehand, I think I experience a sort of “rabbit in headlights” feeling when I step out onto the mats and I do not always think straight. The qualifiers went well for me; I topped 3 of the 4 blocs and I was pleased with how I had climbed. I wasn’t aware of how others had done so when I saw that I was in third place I was shocked and, of course, very pleased.
Going into the semi finals I was prepared for that not to happen again. I have never finished higher than 10th before in an international event of this level so I was aware that, although I had proved to myself that I was capable, it may not happen every time! I was pleased already, anything else would be a bonus. I did, however, climb with a new found sense of confidence. Something clicked in my head and for the first time I felt sure of my ability competing in a field of strong competitors. I qualified in 4th for the finals. It was a bit overwhelming to be honest. I have trained a lot and worked hard in many ways to get better and when it pays off it is actually quite emotional!
The finals were great, having watched so many it was brilliant to be in one. This event had a different format for the finals, it was a knock out. So all the finalists tried the first two boulders, then the top 3 from that tried the 3rd boulder, then the top 3 from that raced on a super boulder. I was knocked out in the first round and ended up in 6th place. It was a bit frustrating because the problems were a bit too easy making it a flash competition (on the first two blocs). I topped both blocs but took 4 attempts (including one slip off the start of bloc one). Had I done 2 in 3 attempts I would have got to try the 3rd bloc. But being able to pull something out of the bag first go under all that pressure is one of the skills in competition climbing! I was very happy with my 6th place. Well done to Alex who won the event (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Some photos of the competition to come soon. Also some here http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/en/gallery/photos/
From Stuttgart I flew to London to see my family for the evening before Dave and I drove to Fontainebleau. Were were there for 4 days to celebrate our friend’s 40th birthday and we had a great time. Despite the heat (up to 35 deg on one day!) we climbed as much as we could. I managed to do a few things that I hadn’t done before including l’Arrache Couer, El Poussah and Rataplat, all very cool problems. We also tried l’angle parfait which I want to finish sometime…
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/langle-Parfait-200x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/langle-Parfait.jpg)Attempting l’angle Parfait, Photo David Mason.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Benoir-279x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Benoir.jpg)Benoir, resident cat at The House, Tousson. Photo David Mason
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Elephant-small-300x200.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Elephant-small.jpg)Highball problem at Elephant, Photo David Mason.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Gateway-300x268.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Gateway.jpg)Photo David Mason
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Nap-time-279x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Nap-time.jpg)Nap time in the forest, Photo David Mason.
After a hot drive home I am glad to be back. A bit of climbing this week before heading back to Germany for the IFSC World Cup in Munich….
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Munich World Cup (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/munich-world-cup)
28 August 2012, 1:01 pm
Arriving back into the UK after the Addidas Rockstars event I suffered a momentary lapse in memory at the passport control desk.
“And where have you travelled from today Madam?”
Pause.
“Umm…oh gosh…ummm…I’m sorry my mind has gone blank….”
Pause.
“…no wait, Stuttgart, yes Stuttgart.”
It was in a similar frame of mind that I sat at Manchester Airport again on Friday morning, a sense of déja vu creeping in. This time I was on my way to Munich for the last IFSC Boulder World Cup.
I was excited. The Addidas event had improved my confidence so much and I felt it was possible to do well again. I was aware that there were more competitors here and some strong women present that hadn’t been in Stuttgart but still; in my mind I as up there with a chance, a strong competitor in the field. It sounds silly but this kind of thinking is new to me and so marks a change.
The qualifiers came around and I was out 19th. This means a fair bit of time in isolation but nothing to complain about. There were 51 women so to be out last meant over 3 hours in isolation. I was nervous but flashed the first boulder, which instantly settled my nerves a bit. In the transition zone it is impossible not to notice how quickly people come back from the wall and therefore get an idea of whether the problems are getting done or not. There was a mix.
I flashed the second boulder and my confidence grew. When I stepped onto the mat of the third boulder I didn’t know how to climb it. There seemed to be lots of options but it looked as if it were set to be a dyno. I pulled on and jumped, latching the first and second hold and stopping to my surprise. I finished the bloc, my third flash. This problem pleased me the most as jumping always used to be one of my real weak points. It is very satisfying when, through practice and training, a weak point can become a strong point.
The fourth bloc was a little more tricky and took me 4 goes (with one silly fall from the top!). The last bloc was the hardest I think but with a bit of luck and grimacing I found my way to the top first go. So I had done all 5 blocs. That had never happened before. I was really happy. I went into the semi finals in joint 5th place. This is the highest I have ever placed in a IFSC World Cup round.
The GB Team as a whole did brilliantly. All 8 of us placed in the top 30, with 5 making the semi-finals. In good spirits on Sunday morning, Katy Whittaker, Ned Feehally, Stew Watson, Adam Watson and I went into isolation once more.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/SANY0316.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/SANY0316.jpg)
Problem 1, Semi Finals. Photo Diane Merrick.
I felt good again. I was hoping I could keep my lucky streak going and I wanted to make my first World Cup final. It was possible and I still believe now that I am capable of it. It wasn’t to be on this occasion though, I fell too many times and I didn’t top enough. The combination of some mistakes and some shortcomings meant that I wasn’t even close. I’ll be honest and say I was disappointed with 15th place. In the past that would have been a great result for me but I feel I am capable of more now. However, in a roundabout way that is pretty cool. Six months ago I would never have dreamt that I would be disappointed not to make finals, they weren’t even on my radar. That is what I choose to take from this: potential, confidence and psyche.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/SANY0326.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/SANY0326.jpg)
Problem 3, Semi Finals. Photo Diane Merrick.
It was a great trip as a team, lots of fun. The finals were amazing to watch, really cool looking blocs and some impressive climbing as usual. Shauna also came along on her crutches and we got to watch her receive her trophy for overall 3rd place for 2012. A great result and well deserved. It was hard for her, watching and not being able to compete but she was a brilliant support to the rest of us.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/289592_275614015880287_2076138491_o-1024x613.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/289592_275614015880287_2076138491_o.jpg)
Me, Alex, Gill, Katy and Shauna watching the finals.
I regret to say I will not be competing at the World Championships in Paris this year. I am disappointed not to be going, especially because I seem to have found my mojo (for want of a better phrase…). I have started to really enjoy the competitions more and so naturally I want to keep going. I will be at my sister’s wedding that weekend, which I wouldn’t miss for the world and from there I will be willing on my team mates. I am sad that my season is over at this point but I look forward to competing again next year.
One more competition left though, I still have The Battle in Norway on the 8th September….
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Mecca (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/mecca)
6 September 2012, 9:05 pm
It took me a while to muster up the courage to try Mecca; a classic, short, power endurance route at Raven Tor. If I’m honest, I had felt a bit intimidated by it. The combination of the grade, it’s reputation, the British climbing scene and my “then” self doubt meant that I put it off for some time. Before this route I had only climbed up to 8a+ sport routes and I felt maybe jumping onto an 8b+ was not the thing to do. However, I soon realised that “not the thing to do” type phrases are no way to govern oneself in life or climbing. I had always wanted to try Mecca because it was classic and the climbing looked amazing, what was I doing letting a number put me off?
Eventually I took the bull by the horns and had a go in May this year. My first session went really well and I managed to do all the moves, but only just. I had another session where it started to seem more realistic but then the UK summer began and the rain came. I was also competing in the IFSC World Cups during this period so time was limited. Then David and I left for Colorado.
We returned to the UK in July and I was psyched to re-open my Mecca account. Only it was wet and continued to be so for a few weeks. About two weeks ago, when I had nearly given up for this year, I heard rumour it was dry and that someone had climbed it. At this point I wasn’t sure whether it was worth starting again on it. David and I are heading back to America on the 19th September and I had multiple competitions and a family wedding to contend with before that.
I decided to have at least one session, to re-assess how long it might take and to re-familiarise myself with the moves. The session went well. My climbing has improved a lot in the last six weeks or so and this really showed on Mecca. It felt like a different route and I found myself having a redpoint go that day.
The repointing sessions began and I slowly moved my failing point higher up the route from the bottom of the groove to the knee bar. Yes, I fell out of the knee bar! My penultimate session saw me shake myself out of this infamous resting position. The knee bar, although a good rest for the arms (one at a time, I don’t know how people manage to take both arms off!), required a lot of tension on my part to stay on and I slowly slipped out of it from pure fatigue. A frustrating place to fail.
While on this subject I feel I should clarify for those who are interested: I did use the knee bar and I did use a knee pad, as has been done in other recent ascents. This was always my plan but in addition I am maid of honour at my sister’s wedding in a week’s time and my dress sits just above the knee, a small gender specific consideration…. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
So, having fallen off quite high on Monday this week, I returned on Wednesday morning to try again. My first go saw me slip on the crux section. Second go, I felt good, I found myself back in the knee bar but this time not nearly so tired; I wasn’t shaking and I felt fairly composed. A deep breath, a word to myself and I embarked on the top section. I tried bloody hard. And then it was done.
Nick Brown aka Outcrop had come along to film too so he got the whole thing (my little piggy-sounding-trying-hard yelps at the top included…).
Big thank you to David for all the belaying and Pirie for the final belay (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
I’m now in Norway for an invitational competition called The Battle where the competitors set problems and then compete on them….wish me luck! Live feed on Saturday night at www.nrk.no/sport
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/287666_521655184518321_118849080_o-1024x576.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/287666_521655184518321_118849080_o.jpg)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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The Battle, Lillehammer. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/the-battle-lillehammer)
11 September 2012, 3:37 pm
What a weekend! My trip to Norway has been great. Most of the competitors arrived on Thursday, coming from as far as South Africa and as close as Trondheim. It was a good mix of people; on the girls side there was Alex Puccio, Hannah Midtbo, Maria Davies Sandbu…. and me and for the men; Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, Carlo Traversi, Magnus Midtbo and Nalle Hukkataival. We all headed to Lillehammer where the competition was to be held.
On Friday morning we were given numerous holds, plenty of assistance and four hours to set a boulder problem. This was the bit I was nervous about. I haven’t got a lot of setting experience and it is quite hard to get the balance right in this kind of situation. You want your problem to be hard of course, but not too hard. I wanted to be sure I could climb it, but I also wanted it to challenge the other competitors. In addition, I was very keen for it to be interesting for the crowd; an exciting problem to watch, combining different styles. The key, of course, is to play to one’s strengths. I looked around for the smallest holds I could find. I played around for hours with my problem but when I finished I was actually pretty pleased with what I had created. And I knew I could climb it.
We had some lunch and chilled out for a bit before returning to the boulders to test each other’s problems. We started with Hannah’s; a steep problem, fairly long, with big moves between good holds. Maria’s problem was next; again very steep and long, good crimps and ending on a high heel hook move that felt a bit insecure. Then Alex’s problem…..unbelievable! Her problem was her style in its purest form; steep, big moves between bad, slopey pinches, very basic and very hard.
Having tried them all I knew I was capable of climbing three (mine, Hannah’s and Maria’s). However, they were all hard so anything could happen. That evening we were taken to dinner where we tried a Norwegian special: Moose stew. It was delicious!
The next day we all felt pretty sore from the setting and the climbing session. We headed to the local wall for two Boulder Jam sessions. These were informal competitions for people who had travelled from all over to watch The Battle. We spent the day talking to people, helping with beta and generally being a part of the event.
That evening we put our aches and pains aside and got ready to climb in the competition. Hannah’s problem was first. This was the one I was most worried about; it had been the hardest for me (apart from Alex’s) in the testing session. My first go was the best but a combination of tiredness and slippy holds (we had had some rain earlier in the day) meant I didn’t make the crux move. Each go after that I got worse, my tiredness was starting to show already. Only Alex managed to top the problem, flashing it with ease. Maria’s problem was next and we all managed to climb it. Then we moved on to Alex’s…. Hannah, Maria and I all had a good go but we couldn’t do the moves. Alex flashed it, wowing the crowd with her incredible power. Finally it was time for my problem.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8460/7961630796_5eee2b127f.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/larsverket/7961630796/)
The start of Hannah’s problem, Photo Lars Verket.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8029/7961617778_60e28ef8da.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/larsverket/7961617778/)
Further along on Hannah’s problem, Photo Lars Verket.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8440/7961520828_ba19ff9195.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/larsverket/7961520828/)
At the top of Maria’s problem, Photo Lars Verket.
I was last to climb so I could watch everyone climb first. Hannah did well but wasn’t able to manage some of the crimpy moves, Maria was the same. Alex flashed right up to the end before falling. I had put very poor footholds at the end of the climb which required very careful foot placements and tension. She tried again and managed it second go. Now it was down to me and I was nervous! I pulled on to begin the climb with a jump. When I got to the crimps I went onto automatic and just pushed through the moves to the top. I was really happy, I had done my problem and it had put me in 2nd place (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif) .
A big well done to Alex for coming in first, she was clearly the strongest and she deserved it.
We then settled in to watch the men. Their problems were really mixed in style, and very exciting to watch. They all climbed brilliantly, with some amazing shows of strength and skill. It was Daniel that stuck out as the most impressive, topping all five blocs to win. This kind of competition was really fun and a nice change from the usual format. It allowed for more creativity on the climber’s part and means harder blocs.
Some partying and celebrating (it was also Nalle’s birthday) meant we had slightly sore heads the next day. What better to do with a hangover than downhill mountain biking! Thanks to Rune and his colleagues we were able to have a two hour session hurtling down the hillside. This was one of the scariest things I have done but it was brilliant. A key part for me was relinquishing control and just committing to the rocky, steep terrain. A few falls, but no major injuries were sustained and we all had a great day.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/551920_10151001001061580_1823009571_n.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/551920_10151001001061580_1823009571_n.jpg)
Now I am home again, preparing to go to London for my sister’s wedding. Best of luck to all those going to Paris this weekend for the World Championships, I will be there in spirit!
A big thank you to Rune and Kristian for all their help and support this weekend, we all had a great time and you were brilliant! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Dave and Daniel look well funny in the end picture...
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Dave and Daniel look well funny in the end picture...
Shitting hell is that He-Man on the right?
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I suspect they have body armour on - makes DG look like a pinhead.
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Hello America! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/hello-america)
21 September 2012, 1:32 pm
We arrived in the US on Wednesday, landing in Philidelphia before catching a connecting flight on to Denver. Our welcome in Philly had something to be desired…we were grilled at US customs. They politely took us to one side and searched our bags before interviewing us in seperate rooms. We are here for 90 days and I think there was suspicion over whether we were trying to illegally work in the US. Having reassured them that all we wanted to do was climb around on rocks and that it is possible to survive on very little money if you just lower your standards, our passports were returned to us and we were free to go. Phew! I know it sounds silly but I can’t help but feel like I’m guilty when being interrogated, I’m just relieved I handled the pressure and didn’t admit to anything I haven’t done!
So we are here, a great reception from Kevin, Jackie and Chris made us feel right at home (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif) . Our first day was a bit of a blur of tiredness but we still ventured out in the evening to Boulder Canyon for a potter about. We climbed a historical John Gill problem called Standard Bulge before spending some time on the dyno, Cage Free. I haven’t really tried many dynos outside but I thoroughly enjoyed this one and wasn’t that far off! David managed to do it, a nice positive start to his climbing on this trip. Kevin got ridiculously close, next time for sure!
And so now it is day two. I am up really early due to jet lag but feeling much more human today. An interview with Rock and Ice for their Spotlight page this morning, and then we’ll head out to Wild Basin. Can’t wait!
Just before leaving the UK, I did a photoshoot with Alex Messenger. He wanted to try out some new lights and I was happy to oblige. Here is Yogurt Hypnotist at Rowtor as you have never seen it before!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/ALM_2623.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/ALM_2623.jpg)
Yogurt Hypnotist, Rowtor, Photo Alex Messenger.
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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A little chapter from my mind…. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/a-little-chapter-from-my-mind)
9 October 2012, 2:07 am
So, we have been in Colorado for two and a half weeks and it had been a mixed bag. We have had good weather, bad weather, sending days, failing days, frustration, elation and of course friends and fun.
I have been thinking a lot these past weeks and I have come to the conclusion that climbing is a very odd, complex sport. It baffles me sometimes. As climbers we want to have our cake and eat it; we want to train hard with no substantial rest period in our calender, we want to go on climbing trips and climb our best every day. We put our bodies through the mill and just expect them to perform day after day. In what other sport would an athlete attempt a PB every session? We do it, not only outside but in training too.
In theory, the last month has been one of my best; I have climbed my hardest ever sport route (Mecca) and have bouldered my hardest ever problem (Tetris). However, as we prepare to leave Colorado to head to Joe’s Valley I am left with a slightly sour taste, a feeling of slight emptiness and unfulfilment. “Really?!” I hear you say. I know, it sounds awfully ungrateful and pessimistic but that is not the whole picture. It is not often that I put all my eggs in one basket but that is what I did to achieve those two aformentioned goals and, don’t get me wrong, it was totally worth it. What I am getting at is that sometimes it takes a certain mindset to climb your hardest, one that I am still adjusting to. It means sacrifice; not always climbing other things on your mental ticklist, not topping out very often. I love those trips, those days, when I climb multiple problems. They don’t have to be at my limit but I still get that feeling of acheiving something, of overcoming a challenge. I guess it comes down to positive reinforcement; something I have realised that I need quite a bit of! Being told doesn’t do it, telling myself doesn’t either – I need rock solid (excuse the pun) evidence in the form of a summit! Those two ascents, of course, gave me poisitive reinforcement but it is the frequency of achievment that is lacking. I know that two substantial ascents in a month is good frequency but taken in the context of climbing most days it feels scarce. I guess it depends also on personality. My climbing confidence will probably always have a slight frailty to it, just because that is how I am wired. Good days and bad days like everyone, always seemingly regardless of how yesterday went.
Realising these things has been quite liberating, it has given me a more rational perspective from which to consider and manage myself. I am extremely lucky to be doing what I am doing and I am eternally grateful for my daily experiences but there are always times of frustration, just as there is always a place for analysis of those emotions. As it stands, although I am immensely pleased with my recent acheivements, I am aware that I need a period of time now in which I can lower my grade; lower the general effort level required on individual climbs and increase the frequency of positive reinforcement. In simpler terms, I am ready to do some milieage.
This is where Joe’s Valley comes in! Short walk ins, short drives and tons of amazing looking problems in the V7-V10 range. I’m ready for some brim-filled climbing days and some topping out!
In terms of inspiration, David has been climbing fantastically. He is on some kind of sending spree and it is a real joy to be a part of. Nothing beats seeing a cheshire cat grin on the face of someone you care about as they top out. Those moments have been highlights and I hope to see more of them.
Here is the video of my success on Tetris:
And one of David’s successes:
And some pictures:
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Autumn-aspens-small.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Autumn-aspens-small.jpg)Autumn aspens, Photo David Mason
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Finger-boarding-small.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Finger-boarding-small.jpg)Warming up on the portable fingerboard, Photo David Mason
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Minas-Hands-small.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Minas-Hands-small.jpg)My hands after climbing Tetris, Photo David Mason
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Sunset-at-Lower-Chaos-small.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Sunset-at-Lower-Chaos-small.jpg)Sunset at Lower Chaos, Photo David Mason
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Golden-Aspens-small.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Golden-Aspens-small.jpg)Golden Aspens, Photo David Mason
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/The-Fuzz-small.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/The-Fuzz-small.jpg)The Fuzz (aka Royal), Photo David Mason
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Marys-Lake-small.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Marys-Lake-small.jpg)Marys Lake, Estes Park, Photo David Mason
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Joe’s Valley (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/joes-valley)
16 October 2012, 8:44 pm
Joe’s Valley has not disappointed. It was a long (by English standards) drive from Boulder, Colorado to Utah; a drive that showed us great scenery but also huge expanses of nothing, something we don’t experience in Europe. Joe’s Valley is about 2.5 hours from Salt Lake City and the nearest town is Orangeville. It is a small town but it has enough to keep us going – a place to shower, a place to check emails, a food shop and a laundrette. What more could one need? The people are also really friendly and welcoming, they seem to be positive about the influx of climbers in their area. The climbing is out of town in the Valley leading to Joe’s Resevoir. It is desert; dry, hot and seemingly limitless.
We have been living in our much loved GMC van and really enjoying it. We have systems for everything and life is simple and fun. We get up, we climb all day, we sleep. Oh, and we watch Downton Abbey in the evenings. Totally addicted.
Joe’s lends itself to exactly what I described needing in my previous blog: short walk ins, lots of great climbs in the V6 -10 range and a low pressure feel. I feel like I have found a flow again, climbing lots of days on, trying many different problems in a day, topping out!
I have done some climbs I am really happy with- some easy, some hard. There are also still plenty of things to try and work at. David is climbing really well, doing lots of climbs first go and quickly diminishing his extensive tick list.
So, a short blog for now but I will write again soon (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Joes-Valley-Main-Street-1024x440.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Joes-Valley-Main-Street.jpg) Joe’s Valley Main Street, Photo David Mason
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Climbing, American chocolate and some seriously bad skin. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/climbing-american-chocolate-and-some-seriously-bad-skin)
25 October 2012, 6:23 pm
We have been in Joe’s Valley for just over 2 weeks now and the weather is starting to get cold…good conditions are on their way. However, some bad luck has forced our combined hand to change plans. Many of you who know David will know that he suffers from bad climbing-related thin skin on his fingertips and consequently split skin a great deal. This episode, however, tops anything in the past and he didn’t even do it climbing! When abseiling to brush up a line his finger got caught between the rope and the rock and he somehow ripped off the pad of his finger tip. Eek. Pretty gory. Really annoying for him, especially as he was falling off the last move of Black Lung, one of his life-time climbing ambitions.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/550335_10100756379248699_1809495292_n.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/550335_10100756379248699_1809495292_n.jpg)
So, with David realistically unable to climb for at least a week and then with tape for probably the next two, we have had to reconsider our options. Our original plan was to go to Yosemite (via Ibex) and then perhaps Bishop in December if we had time before heading home. The Bishop leg was for my benefit mostly, David was happy to go but more keen for Yosemite. I will admit that my desire to go to Bishop is partly because of one climb: The Mandala. I remember watching Dosage 1 as a teenager and seeing Chris Sharma climb this inspiring line in 2001. Ever since, I wanted to go to Bishop but it was only when Lisa Rands climbed the line that I thought (somewhere in the back of my mind) “hmmm…maybe one day I could do that”. So with David temporarily indisposed, it seemed a good idea to follow this dream now. Bishop sounds like a nice place to be if you’re not climbing and then when he is able to start again we can head to Yosemite. Mandala or no Mandala it will be great to visit this famous venue and a change of scene is what we need at the moment.
Before we go I have a bit of unfinished business here. I have done lots of classics, a handful of V10s and a V11 (Ghost of War) and am very happy with my climbing. To date my most satisfying ascent is Beyond Life (V10); a wide, powerful climb which I found very hard! My favourite climbs have been Lumbar Jack (the V8 next to Beyond Life), Feels Like Grit (V8) and the climb that I am hoping to finish before we leave: Gentlemen’s Project (V11). Fingers crossed. One that I will be sad not to finish is Jitterbug Perfume (V10), a beautiful wall but definitely a test of pain tolerance. I have done all the moves but haven’t quite pieced it together. Maybe I’ll have one more go…maybe I won’t….
On a different note we have been sampling American chocolate. It started when we saw some fabulously named products and felt compelled to see what they offered. Now it has become a rest day event to select and try the best- named chocolate bars on offer at the local grocery store. We have tried an “Oh Henry” bar, a “Baby Ruth” bar, a “100 grand” bar and the well known “Butterfinger” bar. They are all a combination of peanuts, chocolate and caramel it seems but despite the lack of originality it is a very enjoyable process! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/get.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/get.jpg)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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From Bishop to Yosemite (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/from-bishop-to-yosemite)
2 November 2012, 12:29 am
Since my last blog we have changed our tune once again. To pick up where I left off, I was trying to finish off Gentleman’s Project, a great line with a very shouldery crux followed by a deadpoint to a good hold. After writing my last blog I had a very frustrating day where I climbed through the crux first go and then fell at the lip when I got my hand position wrong, and not realising why, couldn’t do the final move! So annoying! I then fell time after time on the crux until I was too tired to keep going. Disappointed to make it so close, but also encouraged that I could climb it, I took a rest day. Invigorated by a shower (and some bakery delights from the Food Ranch), two days later I returned and, despite some nerves, did it first go. I was so happy, this was my favourite climb in Joe’s Valley and we left for Bishop that night. Video to come!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Mina-Gentlemans-1-small.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Mina-Gentlemans-1-small.jpg)Reaching up into the shoulder move on Gentlemen’s Project (V11), Photo David Mason.
Driving to Bishop was an experience in itself; Nevada is HUGE. Hundreds of miles of nothing but landscape; paradise for an agraphobic. We arrived in Bishop and went to look at the Buttermilks area. We had heard very mixed reports of Bishop; it seems to be the ‘marmite’ of climbing areas. Some friends have loved it for the awe inspiring lines while others have disliked it for the lower rock quality. I have to say we veered into the second group. There is no denying the impressive sight of the Buttermilks; the tall, majestic granite boulders against the beautiful setting of the Sierra Nevadas. However, the rock quality leaves a lot to be desired and the climbing, although good looking, didn’t inspire us physically.This may have been influenced by the temperature, it was incredibly hot. I suspect that the holds and climbing feels a great deal more conducive to enjoyment in colder temps. Perhaps we have been spoiled by Fontainbleau, Switzerland and trips to amazing places like Rocklands, but Bishop fell short of our expectations. I still wanted to check out the line that I have swooned over for years and at 7:30am I went to try the Mandala. A complete non-starter. Discussing the problem in Boulder with Alex Johnson, she had said to me: “If you can make the first big move you will do the problem”. This now made perfect sense, the first move is massive. The problem was originally done a different way, a shorter but apparently harder move, before a crucial hold broke. This break lowered the grade but, as far as I can tell, increased the span required. I could just reach between the holds but the power required to make the move is something I doubt I will ever possess. So, within 15 minutes, a lifelong ambition had been crossed off my mental list; I will admit I was pretty disappointed. With David not psyched for the rock in Bishop and both of us excited for what Yosemite Valley had to offer, we dicided to cut our losses and make the 3 hour trip across Tioga Pass.
So now we are in Yosemite. We have been running around looking at boulders and we are both inspired and psyched by the beautiful granite lines that Yosemite Valley contains. A rest day and a shower today, I can’t wait to get started! A great LT11 film here shows some of the classics and I think it showcases the bouldering scene well:
Park Life – Yosemite Bouldering (http://vimeo.com/34989417) from Louder Than Eleven (http://vimeo.com/louderthan11) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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That is one closely shaved armpit.
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people still do it (the mandala) with dave graham sequence just using the broken hold, it looks properly grim; matt birch has done the sit using it and seemed very enthausiastic about it but he by his own admission loves a rat crimp.
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Yosemite (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/yosemite)
20 November 2012, 12:55 am
Yosemite Valley is awesome. Full stop. The tall granite boulders make for great lines; interesting climbing, impressive features and often a bit scary! There is also plenty of history surrounding the boulders here from Ron Kauk’s Midnight Lightning to Jerry Moffatt’s Dominator. Suffice to say there has been plenty to do and we arrived psyched with long wish lists and ready bodies. We have been here for just over two weeks and I am not sure where to start! The classics, I suppose. Camp 4 is full to the brim of them, from problems like Initial Friction (V1) and Cocaine Corner (V5) to Midnight Lightning (V8) and Thriller (V10), there is something truly fantastic for any climber. The three notorious V8′s at Camp 4 (Midnight, King Cobra and Bruce Lee) are all brilliant, all hard and all totally different styles from one another. One block holds Thriller and the Force – I was ecstatic to climb both test pieces. And then there is Dominator, right there slap bang in the middle of the camp ground yet still has had few ascents. On the other side of the Valley there are more treasures to be found; the LeConte area holds some gems such as Conan (a crimpy V9), Flatline (a highball, scary V8) and Panic Room (a burly and high V9) while Candyland boasts The Diamond (V8), Once Upon A Time (V3) and Shadow Warrior (V12). The latter is a hard compression problem that I was very psyched by. I put some time in and can do all the moves and some good links but we have decided to leave the valley for pastures new. Next time on that one! One of my favourite problems here was Cindy, a highball V10 that required compression, technique and a good head. This climb really made me think about the ability some climbers have to “switch off” their brains when they need to and just go through the motions. I experienced this on Flatline, the aformentioned highball V8. Flatline’s crux is low down but the top section has some hard moves on small holds and is at a height I would not wish to fall from. For some reason that day I was able to “switch off” and I flashed it. Cindy was different. For a start, I tried the top section a rope first so one may liken the process to headpointing rather than ground up highballing. This felt necessary and sensible for me on this particular boulder. When I tried to boulder it from the ground, I got to the high section twice and backed off, too scared to commit to the moves. The third time I “switched off” and did it – now what was different on that attempt? And how did it differ to Flatline? I have come to the conclusion that some people are naturally very good at controlling their fear and some are not, and some (like me) are in the middle. Sometimes I can do it and sometimes I can’t and I haven’t quite worked out the difference. One thing I have realised is that I have a certain capacity for it; if I try a highball in the morning I want to try something normal sized in the afternoon. My mental strength can’t deal with too much in a short space of time!
So, we are moving on. Partly due to wet weather and partly due to that itchiness that comes with staying in one place for a bit. Motivation dipped a bit and we decided it was time for a change. Ibex is next on the list, followed by a return to Joe’s Valley for David to unleash his newly healed skin on some unfinished business and then perhaps Moab on our way back to Boulder.
Worth a mention is San Fransisco; a beautiful and vibrant city that was home for three days while Yosemite was awash with rain. We escaped the tumultuous weather in the Valley and went to visit friends in the city. It was great, we ate good food, had laughs and saw the city – perhaps just what you need half way through a trip! Thanks again Si and Jackie for your hospitality and for showing us the best food in town (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/San-Franciso-2-smal-1024x568.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/San-Franciso-2-smal.jpg)
San Francisco
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/MIdnight-small-682x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/MIdnight-small.jpg)
Midnight Lighting, Photo David Mason
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Half-Dome-in-the-snow-2-small-1024x971.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Half-Dome-in-the-snow-2-small.jpg)
Half Dome in the Snow, Photo David Mason
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Return to Sandstone and some Lisa Rands Inspiration (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/return-to-sandstone-and-some-lisa-rands-inspiration)
4 December 2012, 9:46 pm
Sometimes things just come together at the right time and fall into place. I feel like that happened for me this weekend.
But I’ll retrace my steps a bit…we left Yosemite in the rain, disappointed not to climb there more. Psyche was a bit low.
I’ve been asked before in interviews:
“How do you deal with times of low motivation for climbing?”
and I have honestly answered:
“I don’t really experience those”.
Well now I have, and it was strange! A kind of disinterested feeling overcame me and I started to wonder what I was going to do about it and how long it would last. I was sad to leave the Valley and we were heading back to Joe’s so David could try some more on Black Lung (now that his finger has healed). Having already spent some time there I was happy to go for him but for my climbing I felt a bit like I’d done my time there for this trip. We stopped off for a few days in Ibex and, having been trying to understand this new feeling of “meh”, I watched some Dosage 1 (the Ibex bit) to regain some enthusiasm. What can I say? I owe my renewed psyche and hunger for climbing completely to Lisa Rands! Something about her climbing in Ibex helped me find my motivation and so far it has stayed with me!
Ibex is awesome. There is not loads there but what is there is really high quality and fun. We had a great few days enjoying the open space, driving the van around the salt plains and climbing some classics. The first two days were spent climbing White Arete, Big Gulp, Blue Flowers, Ju, Meat and Potatoes and Bruce Lee – all brilliant. On the third day I was pretty tired (from my sudden, overwhelming, Lisa-induced motivation) but David was still looking strong and managed to climb Wing Chun V13 – a short basic James Litz problem. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
We left Ibex and headed back to Joe’s Valley. Despite my worrying, there was plenty for me to be psyched for. Some in the guide that I had overlooked, some newer things that I didn’t know about before. Having done a lot of the easier classics that I was interested in, my list was predominantely hard stuff.
“Oh well”, I thought. “Think of it as training. Even if they are too difficult for me to finish I will have fun trying hard and can only get stronger“.
To my surprise, it all came together this weekend and I managed to send Jigsaw (V11) and Milkman Sit (V10/11) on Friday, Man of the Past (V11) on Sunday night and then Dark Matter (V12) on Monday.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/706279_303706763073166_1892906326_o-790x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/706279_303706763073166_1892906326_o.jpg)
Man of the Past (V11), Photo David Mason.
Video to come soon!
I’m going to have to reorganise my list of things to try! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif) Thanks Lisa!
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Back to training…. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/back-to-training)
14 January 2013, 3:35 pm
Since my last blog we have returned from the USA, Christmas and New Years Eve have gone past in a flurry and now it is nearly half way through January! How time flies when you aren’t watching.
Since we arrived back the weather in Sheffield has been pretty rubbish; not conducive to a good day out climbing. Until this week, I have just focussed on training. When we first arrived back I was feeling pretty strong only to discover that climbing inside or any kind of training felt alien and extremely difficult. I felt so weak which was strange because outside on rock I felt strong. I think on long trips you do get weaker but you also learn to climb in a different style that befits rock better. I am now beginning to think of them as different things altogether. So, going back to training and indoor climbing felt like retraining after three months off!
After the first week, I was feeling a lot stronger so perhaps the key is learning and remembering a different style and also recruiting old strength back. In training exercises I am not where I was before we left but I am not far off now. I enjoy training so, although I miss climbing outside everyday, it is also nice to try hard and see progress in a different way. I am training for the World Cups this year; psyched to try to improve on my performance in the past and to have a good time.
Now the weather is changing and I am having a rest day after three days in a row on the Peak District gritstone – lucky lady! – combined with training in the evenings too. I have travelled a lot for climbing, but I am always amazed by the beauty of the Peak and the quality climbing it has to offer. Coming home is never too hard, so long as the weather holds out….
So now I will keep up the training, get on the grit when I can and try to keep my psyche levels high. First though, I am off to Spain next week to do some route climbing in Siurana….
On another note, since returning to the UK, I have been inspired by the work of John Ellison on his CAC (Climbers Against Cancer) movement. Its a fantastic effort and a great cause, if you don’t already have a T-shirt get one ordered!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/580535_464626126931076_53619428_n-164x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/580535_464626126931076_53619428_n.jpg)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Siurana – A boulderer on a rope… (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/siurana-a-boulderer-on-a-rope)
29 January 2013, 8:19 pm
Siurana boasts a beautiful landscape; a tiny village situated on a hill top, surrounded by magnificent cliffs of orange and grey. We were a group of five (Caff, Cal, Ryan, Ray and myself) squeezed into a little cabin on the main campsite, all psyched and ready to climb.
The climbing in Siurana is quite old school; lots of crimps and some fairly bold climbing. When I was younger I was more of a route climber and that was my chosen discipline in my teens. I only really began to focus more on bouldering in my twenties. Having said that I am now 25 and, having not done a lot of route climbing lately, I seem to have regressed to feeling out of sorts above my clip; nervously overgripping on moves that are fairly steady. In contrast, I was super impressed with Calum (Muskett) in particular. Calum is an experienced climber, albeit he is only 19. His ability to onsight was fantastic and his confident style was something I can but aspire to. I am out of practice and a complete wuss in comparison! A boulderer at heart, although I love sport climbing, I am definitely more into redpointing than onsighting. I feel a lot more relaxed when I am trying things nearer to my limit; perhaps the acceptance of the often inevitable fall is somehow liberating? Onisghting fills me with a fear of the unknown, getting further away from my last clip, unsure if I will be able to clip the next one that seems unreasonably far above. I suppose when redpointing, one knows what is to come so there is a more calculable fear factor. From this perspective, the experience was an interesting one in which I re-learnt to trust myself and reconnect with my head in a way that I don’t above pads. I suppose when it somes down to it, different disciplines have different skill sets. It was good to get out of my comfort zone.
I tried some harder routes on this trip, managing an ascent of the classic Anabolica (8a) – fantastic route – early on in the trip, as well as trying other classics such as Migranya (8b) and La Cara que no Miente (8a+). Migranya was really fun to try and pretty doable for me if I had a bit more time. It is a steep, burly route with big moves between good holds; not a favourite among the girls I am told, but I loved it. I surprised myself on my last day by flashing Memorias de una Sepia (8a), and then finishing off La Cara que no Miente (8a+) too. The first was a 32m (long for me!) route which I thoroughly enjoyed. It is low in the grade in my opinion but really good moves up beautiful line. The second route is the opposite; short, burly climbing on a tufa, the crux being a jump to a big hole. Great fun to climb! My last day also coincided with Ryan Pasquil’s ascent of Jungle Speed, his first 9a – very impressive start to his nine week trip!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/P1040838-Copy.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/siurana-a-boulderer-on-a-rope/p1040838-copy)
La Cara que no Miente, 8a+. Photo Calum Muskett.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/8a-Flash-small.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/siurana-a-boulderer-on-a-rope/8a-flash-small)
Memorias de una Sepia, 8a. Photo Calum Muskett
My overall feeling about Siurana was positive; good climbing, great people and the odd bit of sunshine…I can’t exactly complain! The climbing was fun but a little sharp, I would probably plan to visit a new venue rather than return in a hurry but this is mainly because there are so many crags I have yet to visit. One of the best routes had to be Mandragora (7b+), a stunning 38m climb, glorious in the sunshine. I was very impressed by the other’s climbing on this trip and enjoyed improving my nerve above my clip – definitely more improving to be done there!
Oh and the coffee is fantastic (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
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On an added note, I have recently reconnected with an old aquaintance from my teenage days at the WestWay climbing centre – a friend, Sol, who has started up his own range of healthy protein products called UpRaw. These little bundles of goodness are all pure and free of all those nasty extras that most of our foods contain nowadays to keep them on the shelf for longer. Sol mainly distributes in London because the production is a one man enterprise but keep an eye out for them as he gets more and more successful. It is great to support a small, up and coming business, especially one with such a strong and pure ethos, no compromises. Sol is psyched on sports nutrition and hopefully with enough support he will be able to expand into new ranges – he has already sent me a new dairy free, nut free prototype – watch this space. If you are in London, keep an eye out for UpRaw – if you live further away you can order direct from Sol on his website. Use MINARAW as a code and get 10% off. They definitely keep me climbing!
www.up-raw.com
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/UpRaw-150-150.png) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/sponsors/upraw-150-150)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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RocFest and GB Team Trials (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/rocfest-and-gb-team-trials)
15 February 2013, 4:04 pm
Competitions. What a world of trying hard, excitement, confidence, slips, mistakes, triumph and disappointment. Those are the feelings I associate with competitions; some good ones and some bad ones. Being a consistently good bouldering competitor is quite a challenge, given the nature of the sport. It is so multifaceted in it’s execution, there are so many variables. One has to be good at a lot of things or hope that the competition plays to one’s strengths. That is the essence of a consistently good competitor: skilled all round, not having to hope that the blocs suit them.
I feel like I’m getting there. In previous years I have needed the blocs to suit me, my performance has varied massively depending on how burly or steep the problems were or whether there were lovely crimp ladders that felt like gifts. I have really upped my training levels recently and it is definitely paying off. It is so hard to know how much to do, treading the line between injury and success is a tricky business. I feel like right now, I am confident on that tight-rope of a walk; I train hard but I also look after myself. I may do ten climbing-based sessions a week with cardio and core added in around them but I also see an amazing chiropractor (Matt Pigden) regularly, get nutrition advice through the GB team from Rebecca Dent, and I always get a good night’s sleep. All work and no play, except work is basically play…
In the last couple of weeks I have done two big competitions: RocFest and the GB Team Trials. Both went really well – I came 2nd at the RocFest (Alex Puccio came 1st) and I came 1st in the GB Team Trials. These were both big achievements for me, I do not have a history of winning competitions or even coming second. More importantly I have shown some consistency and that makes me feel confident not only about my future performance but also about the training I am doing. I am no longer put off when there is a burly problem, I no longer shy away from a dyno. I look at problems and think ”I can climb that” rather than “oh god…”. For those of you that know me or compete yourselves, you will realise that that is a huge psychological step in itself.
So, next stop the Biscuit Factory comp on the 23rd Feb, then CWIF on the 2nd/3rd March…then the World Cups start…..
Thanks to everyone for your support: Rock Over Climbing and ArchClimbing for putting on great events, Matt Pigden for keeping me in one piece, Rebecca Dent for her unwavering nutritional support and encouragement, Tom Sugden for his managerial skills, UpRaw for keeping my hunger at bay and mostly David for a) all the training help and b) putting up with me! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Here are some piccies:
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Mina001.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/rocfest-and-gb-team-trials/mina001)
Team Trials, Photo Matt Ralph
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Mina002.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/rocfest-and-gb-team-trials/mina002)
Team Trials, Photo Matt Ralph
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Mina003.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/rocfest-and-gb-team-trials/mina003)
Team Trials, Photo Matt Ralph
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Mina004.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/rocfest-and-gb-team-trials/mina004)
Team Trials, Photo Matt Ralph
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Rocfest-1-small-682x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/rocfest-and-gb-team-trials/rocfest-1-small)
Rocfest, Photo Ismail Aya
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Rocfest-2-small-682x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/rocfest-and-gb-team-trials/rocfest-2-small) Rocfest, Photo Ismail Aya
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/rocfest-and-gb-team-trials/rocfest-1-small)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Rocfest-2-small-682x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/rocfest-and-gb-team-trials/rocfest-2-small)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/rocfest-and-gb-team-trials/rocfest-1-small)
Mina on a stick!
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Careless Torque (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/careless-torque)
28 February 2013, 10:48 am
I have to say, I thought doing Careless Torque was a bit of a pipe dream. I have bouldered 8A and 8A+ but gritstone always felt like a different ball game. Then there is the height of it: somewhere in the region of 7-8m. An intimidating prospect to say the least, but it still was always in the back of my mind.
It was first climbed by Ron Fawcett in 1987, the year I was born. Twenty-five years later and I was psyching myself up to have a go!
I decided to get stuck in and try it back in January and found that I was close to getting stood up on the arete – for those of you that do not know the climb, getting stood up is considered the hard part, the part that gets Careless Torque the grade it is assigned. The beginning section is burly and powerful whilst also being very technical and intuitive. This combination is probably what makes it feel so hard. However, I would add to the mix the word “knacky” (not sure that is actually a word…); once you have felt the correct position, it can become learnt. So, back in January, I got a glimpse of the feeling that it might work and the seed was sewn.
Then it rained. And rained. And rained some more. Last week there was a break in the abysmal weather and I headed out with Will Atkinson and a young, budding film maker by the name of Nicholas Brown. It was about -2 degrees in the plantation car park, good conditions. I had warmed up at the Climbing Works and was ready to go. Three goes in, I found myself stood up on the arete of Careless Torque. I was surprised and, honestly, pretty scared! My first attempt at the top was slow and fumbling. I fell off but I knew what to do now and, having taken the fall that I was so frightened of, my nerves had settled. Psyche overtook fear and I rested up for another go. I shan’t bore you with all my attempts, I fell on the top section four times. It is certainly not over , the top is still hard and very committing. One time I fell with my hand touching the last hold, burnt by my own hesitation. That fall hurt a bit. Time was running out, we had to get going to get Nick to his hospital appointment, I had one more go. It’s funny how focus means you sometimes can’t remember things properly. The go I did it I was so “in the zone” that I can’t recall exactly what happened, except I didn’t fall off!
It meant a lot to me to climb this line. Not only was it a first female ascent but Careless is so many things; hard, scary, beautiful, historic, classic….I could go on.
My best achievement so far? Yes I think maybe it is.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Careless-1-small-1024x980.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/careless-torque/careless-1-small)
Careless from a distance, Photo Pirie Forrest.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Careless-2-small-682x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/careless-torque/careless-2-small)
Standing up precariously….Photo Pirie Forrest
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Careless-3-small-682x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/careless-torque/careless-3-small)
Reaching for the top, Photo Pirie Forrest
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Fantasic!
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An awesome achievement. Great post, I know that feeling of "in the zone", feels so strange afterwards not being able to recall exactly what happend!
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CWIF 2013 (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/cwif-2013)
5 March 2013, 11:12 am
The CWIF weekend was exhausting! The day after I felt like I was in some kind of trance, propped up by coffee and fresh air.
It was a weekend of mixed emotions for me if I am honest. I feel like I have upped my game recently, both physically and mentally. This took months and months of hard work but it has certainly paid off. I came 4th last year in the CWIF and 4th this year but it was different this time. Last year I was vying for 3rd/4th/5th or 6th; this year I was in it to win it. That may not have happened but it was on the cards and that is a huge difference.
The qualifiers were fun and I surprised myself by coming top in the female scores. I then flashed all the semi-finals to maintain 1st place going into the finals- it was all going so well…. The finals came round and they just didn’t go to plan. Win some, lose some I guess but I had a lot of fun in the process!
Two weeks until some of the GB team and I fly to China for the first IFSC Boulder World Cup of the season….wish me luck! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/225427_10151542456626742_1439730418_n.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/225427_10151542456626742_1439730418_n)
CWIF 2013, Semi-Finals. Photo Alex Messenger.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/429618_10151542457161742_1524756151_n.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/429618_10151542457161742_1524756151_n)
CWIF 2013, Finals. Photo Alex Messenger.
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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IFSC Boulder World Cup Chongqing (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/ifsc-boulder-world-cup-chongqing)
28 March 2013, 3:53 pm
I had debated whether or not to go to the World Cup in China this year and I had decided against it. I went last year due to some unexpected funding and, although it was quite an adventure, I had mixed feelings about the trip. With 24 hours travel in each direction and an 8 hour time difference, it makes for an exhausting week. Plus it is an expensive one to go to, so, decision made: not going. I invited my sister and her husband up for the weekend instead!
Then the situation changed; some funding appeared last minute. Yes it was going to be tiring, but could I really look this gift horse in the mouth?
Chongqing is HUGE; with a population of 30 million it is one of the biggest cities in the world. I found myself on my way there to compete in the first round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup.
The competition was good and bad for me. I came 10th which, looking at my history, is a good result. However, I felt disappointed with my climbing. I didn’t climb as well as I felt I was capable of, which as many of you know from any sport, is very frustrating. I struggled a lot with the time difference, spending a lot of time exhausted but unable to sleep. So taking all of that into account, I did okay. On the positive, to come 10th and feel I didn’t fulfil my potential is great; perhaps next time I can get an even better result! Who knows.
Climbing aside, we had a really fun time. Here are some pictures!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Dancing-small-300x225.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/ifsc-boulder-world-cup-chongqing/dancing-small)Dancing in Chongqing city centre
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Flowers-small-300x225.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/ifsc-boulder-world-cup-chongqing/flowers-small)
Pretty flowers in town centre
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Diane-small-208x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/ifsc-boulder-world-cup-chongqing/diane-small)
Diane on her birthday!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Food-small-300x225.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/ifsc-boulder-world-cup-chongqing/food-small)
Hot Pot meal out
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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From China to France to Sweden…with a little bit of home in-between! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/from-china-to-france-to-sweden-with-a-little-bit-of-home-in-between)
15 April 2013, 1:03 pm
Since I last blogged I have been all over the place! If going to China wasn’t adventurous enough, the GB team then set off to Millau, France to compete in the next round of the 2013 IFSC Boulder World Cup.
Millau was a mixed bag in terms of performance for me. I qualified in 7th and but then dropped to 12th after the semi finals. The problems were hard! You needed one flash to make the finals. However three of the problems got climbed (with one problem receiving no tops) so I felt a bit disappointed not to have got further. I didn’t mess up which was nice, I just wasn’t strong enough for those problems. I have come away with things to work on which is always good and hopefully next time will be better! Amazing result from Shauna Coxsey as usual and fantastic climbing from Leah Crane too. We had a really fun weekend making some shapes too:
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/893053_358975604212948_1440506786_o-300x199.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/from-china-to-france-to-sweden-with-a-little-bit-of-home-in-between/893053_358975604212948_1440506786_o)
Home for two days and then it was time to head to Stockholm for the 2013 Tierra Boulder Battle. This event was great, I think it was the best one I have done so far! An all girl competition: Alex Puccio, Melissa Le Neve, Anja Hodan, Therese Johansson, Matilda Soderland and me. We set boulders, tested them, played around with fancy dress, did photo shoots, took saunas, saw the sights of Stockholm, drank copious amounts of coffee, competed and then partied! It was such a good weekend! I really enjoyed the climbing and was pleased to come in 3rd place in the competition.
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Some fancy dress and make up!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/891923_509611712432517_1239776006_o-200x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/from-china-to-france-to-sweden-with-a-little-bit-of-home-in-between/891923_509611712432517_1239776006_o)
CAC had a good presence this weekend too!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/893242_133512100167672_1852835679_o-300x165.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/from-china-to-france-to-sweden-with-a-little-bit-of-home-in-between/893242_133512100167672_1852835679_o)
Melissa’s problem (my favourite one!)
Now a bit of time at home to top up the training, climb outside and take a deep breath or two before heading to Kitzbuhel next week!
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Kitzbuhel World Cup 2013 (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/kitzbuhel-world-cup-2013)
30 April 2013, 12:42 pm
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/478639_369801409808023_711761808_o-300x109.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/kitzbuhel-world-cup-2013/478639_369801409808023_711761808_o)Kitzbuhel by Team GB, Photo Victoria Newlands
Another World Cup over, another mixed bag of emotions. It was my best competition to date but also probably one of the most frustrating.
Kitzbuhel is a beautiful setting; we had a great weekend with a cohesive team, fantastic climbing and some excellent results. In the qualifying rounds, both men and women were in two groups. The GB men sadly didn’t qualify for semi finals, despite putting in great performances. In the girls Leah, Shauna and I made semi finals. I was a bit shocked to go out and flash all the qualifying problems but it was a great feeling! I have to admit that I thought perhaps we were going to have a repeat of the Chongqing round, where eleven women qualified in joint 1st place with a score of 5/5, so I was excited and surprised to discover it was just Alex Puccio and me!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/317391_515541411814692_194862364_n-198x300.jpg)Rest time, Photo Andreas Aufschnaiter
The next day it was strange being in the last group of athletes to leave isolation. I’m not used to it and I kept thinking I should have been warming up sooner. It was odd to see climbers that I admired leaving before me in a semi final competition, and scary to think I would have to follow their performances! I was feeling confident though and was really excited. I felt like I was good enough to make finals and maybe this was my window of opportunity.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/476017_10151370927242283_113258225_o-300x199.jpg)The semi final slab! Photo Eddie Fowkes
I ended up in 12th after the semis but I don’t feel that that fairly represents how I climbed. I did the first two problems and got to the last move of the 3rd problem three times, touching the final hold….if I had held that hold, I would have made finals. Putting it like that shows me how close I was and although it makes me frustrated it also gives me the confidence (along with my qualifying round) to pick myself back up and try again. Next round is in Slovenia in just under two weeks…
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/575445_515874088448091_1609899851_n-198x300.jpg)Problem 3 in semi finals, Photo Andreas Aufschnaiter
I may not have had the results I am after yet this year but they are within sight. I think I am capable of making a final and that in itself is progress. Last year I was participating, this year I am competing.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/317366_515874035114763_1255510688_n-300x198.jpg)Photo Andreas Aufschnaiter
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Pack and unpack, pack and unpack…. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/pack-and-unpack-pack-and-unpack)
21 May 2013, 8:54 am
These last few weeks have been a manic series of packing and unpacking; travelling and waiting; climbing up and falling down; leaving excited and coming home tired. Doing a full season is exhausting! I haven’t done this many competitions back to back before and it is really fun. There is, of course, a trade off element to the whole thing: limited climbing outside, lots of time away and lots of travelling. Having said that, I would do it all again and probably will next year! I am lucky enough to have the time to focus on outside climbing at other times in the year so I don’t feel too bereft while I am focussing on competitions.
The World Cups are kind of addictive. This year I have made consistent semi-finals and have placed in the top 15 every time. That is a huge step up for me. Every competition I am excited, every competition I want to do better, at the end of every event I am glad I get another go in not too long. The finals are the finish line for me, that is where I want to be but there are some hard problems on the way and some seriously talented climbers to compete against. Maybe it will happen this year, maybe it won’t. Either way I am enjoying every competition and while that is still the case I will keep trying.
Log Dragomer and Innsbruck were both brilliant events. Innsbruck stuck out for me as one of the best this year; it is a really cool city, the crowd was great, the problems were great….the ice cream was great! I especially enjoyed watching the finals and seeing Jule Wurm and Jan Hojer win. Both climbers are really nice people and looked so happy and overwhelmed, it was quite emotional! Anna, as always, put in a solid performance and only just missed out on the gold. It would have been impressive for her reign to continue but I am sure she was psyched for her friend too.
So, back to the training board. A week at home now before flying first to Toronto and then to Vail for the next two World Cups (and my last ones!).
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Problem 4 in the Qualifiers, Photo Udo Neumann
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Problem 1, Semi-finals, Photo Dominik Wujastyk
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Women’s Podium, Photo Udo Neumann
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Team GB, Log – Dragomer.
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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The other side of the pond….. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/the-other-side-of-the-pond)
11 June 2013, 2:31 pm
Very quickly the time arrived for our GB Bouldering team to venture further and cross the Atlantic to compete in Toronto, Canada and then Vail, USA. With a big team representing and oodles of psyche we descended on various airports and made our way first to Hamilton (just outside Toronto).
Before the competition we went to see one of the world’s wonders; Niagara Falls. It was quite an experience, very touristy but an incredible natural spectacle. We even went to the bottom on the touristy boat and got soaked! Thanks so much to Keith and Kashca who looked after us and took us to see this awesome sight!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/421358_380290215414820_1522564146_n-300x225.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/421358_380290215414820_1522564146_n)
The Hamilton World Cup had a great atmosphere; a VERY enthusiastic crowd, good organisation and fun route setting. As a team, we put our best feet forward and managed to get three of us to semi–finals (Leah, Shauna and myself) and one to finals (can you guess who?? (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif) ). In terms of my climbing I was a bit disappointed…I climbed well in the qualifiers but in the semi-finals I made some glaring route reading errors and lacked some basic strength. All deposited in the bank of experience and logged for future training!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/400502_10152890512190644_935592997_n-200x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/400502_10152890512190644_935592997_n)Women’s Qualifiers, Photo Tito Caleyron
On to Vail and we were keen beans. Only four days separated the competitions and we had one day training in Boulder at The Spot (accompanied by pancakes), followed by a short session the next day at the Vail Rock Club. The air is thin in Boulder at approx. 5000ft and even thinner in Vail at approx. 8000ft. We didn’t notice the altitude until we climbed, then it was a case of “why am I so pumped so quickly?” and “why am I breathing so hard after one boulder problem??” Having said that, as each session went on we did acclimatise a bit. The day before the competition we decided to put our respective haemoglobin cells to the test and we drove up to the top of Mount Evans, a dizzy height of over 14,000ft. Now, up there, even walking was a stress on the system! We had a brief picnic and headed back to register for the competition.
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Once again, we all rallied and fought our way up as many boulders as possible and this time we had four GB athletes in the semi-finals; joining Leah, Shauna and myself was Dave Barrans. The women’s semi- finals were HARD!! Two bonuses got you into the finals, which was what I had but in too many attempts. The heart breaking moment for me was on the fourth and last problem in the semi-finals. After getting through the crux and setting up to try to finish the problem, I slipped whilst readjusting my hand and fell. If it weren’t for that slip, I think I could have finished the problem and I would have made my first World Cup Final. I have been close before but this was too close for comfort.
What can I say? I slipped and other people didn’t, they were solid on the moves and I wasn’t. Everyone comes out of competitions with the “what if” feeling and I am sure I am not the only one that was close in some way. Bank it and move on. Train harder and look to next year.
To inspire me to look forward and take the positives, Shauna “acquired” a certain hold for me as a keepsake (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/hold-225x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/hold)So, that is my season over. I am not competing in Munich or Eindhoven as I have decided to spend the summer climbing outside and will be cheering on the GB team from glorious Rocklands in South Africa.
To sum up…. it’s been a good year. My goals at the start of the season were as follows:
- To consistently make semi-finals — TICK (I made all of them)
- To make a final —…..NEGATIVE
- To make top ten overall —TICK (at the moment I have a World Ranking of 9th but this may change after Munich)
So 2/3 isn’t too bad. I’ll take it. I was consistent (10th, 12th, 14th, 12th, 9th, 12th,, 11th ) and that is very encouraging.
Thanks to everyone for all the support, it makes a huge difference and is really touching to have people behind you. I had a great time and I can’t wait to do it again next year!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/984304_10152909790580644_1185087726_n-300x200.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/984304_10152909790580644_1185087726_n)Photo Tito Caleyron
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/977134_10152967875670565_280340973_o-200x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/977134_10152967875670565_280340973_o)Photo Ashley Schoppelrei
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/5822_533072783394888_1661979743_n-300x200.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/5822_533072783394888_1661979743_n)Photo Heiko Wilhelm
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/5583_533072736728226_559570990_n-300x200.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/5583_533072736728226_559570990_n)Photo Heiko Wilhelm
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/5389_533072690061564_385025345_n-300x200.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/5389_533072690061564_385025345_n)Photo Heiko Wilhelm
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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British Bouldering Champs (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/british-bouldering-champs)
10 July 2013, 3:02 pm
The British Bouldering Championships come around every year and every year I sign up with a mixture of psyche, hope and dread. For some reason it feels more nerve wracking than a World Cup! Perhaps this is because it is a home crowd, perhaps I feel expectations are higher in a smaller field or perhaps it is just a competition that I always want to do well in but have a history of performing distinctly averagely in! In fact my best performance (prior to this year) was my first in 2008 where I placed 3rd; since then I have never been on the podium and it has a history of knocking my confidence.
Whatever the reasons behind my trepidation, the BBCs arrived again this year and it was time to get psyched up to try hard. The field in UK women’s bouldering is strong at the moment with world class climber Shauna Coxsey; strong, gymnastic climber Leah Crane; and of course our adopted Brit, the power house, Alex Puccio.
The weekend was a hot one and it was going to be tough. With a new format that follows that of a World Cup, we embarked on qualifiers, semi-finals and then finals.
For the women’s finals it came down to the aforementioned three, Jennifer Wood, Gill Peet and myself. There was a great crowd and a fun atmosphere and I was psyched to try hard.
To cut a long story short, the final was totally owned by Shauna. She flashed all 4 blocs and deservedly came 1st. I managed 2 blocs (I am ashamed to admit the use of my fingernails on the slab!) as did Alex and Leah. It came down to attempts and, to my surprise, I came through in 2nd. My best result ever!
It was an odd feeling actually because I didn’t feel like I actually climbed very well in that final…. one of the blocs I couldn’t even get off the floor! But I suppose that is how it goes sometimes! Having said that, after trying really hard in the World Cup season, I felt I earned my position of number 2 in British women’s competition bouldering and so it was nice to have that reflected in the results of our nationals.
Well done to Shauna who is just more and more impressive as time goes on and is an inspiration to us all. I’m trying my best to catch up and one day maybe I’ll give her a run for her money! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Here are some photos courtesy of Alex Messenger:
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/934990_10152006963385828_613818685_n-199x300.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/934990_10152006963385828_613818685_n)
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(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/998330_10152006964045828_107229557_n-300x199.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/998330_10152006964045828_107229557_n)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/1004760_10152006963060828_218449277_n-300x199.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/1004760_10152006963060828_218449277_n)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/944761_10152006962045828_104829235_n-300x199.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/944761_10152006962045828_104829235_n)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/1069131_10152006963285828_1539729286_n-300x199.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/1069131_10152006963285828_1539729286_n)
As I write this I am killing time at Heathrow Airport before getting on a flight to Vancouver for the Squamish Mountain Festival. Really excited to climb in Squamish and to give my first ever lecture for Arc’teryx as a pro climber…..eek! Pretty terrified to be honest.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/999495_404741202980710_260322764_n-300x160.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/999495_404741202980710_260322764_n)If you don’t already have a CAC T-shirt…..
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Blog aggregators and their comedy timing
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Squamish Mountain Festival (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/squamish-mountain-festival)
24 July 2013, 7:38 pm
I have travelled a lot lately but this was the first long trip I can think of where I set off completely solo. I would normally travel with Dave or the GB team or friends and it was kind of invigorating to just set off alone! I felt like a true traveller: independent, self sufficient and happy with my own company.
Arriving in Vancouver I collected a car from the rental place and began (at what felt like 4am to me but was in fact around 9pm local time) to drive on what felt like the wrong side of the car and the wrong side of the road! Needless to say, I got lost. Things were said in the car that make me glad I was alone. Eventually I made it to my friend’s place in North Vancouver with lots of wrong turns but only one near miss with a pedestrian.
After a zombie-like post travel sleep at Tiff and Simon’s place, I headed straight to Squamish to check out the place and climbing that I had heard so much about. Even the drive from Vancouver to Squamish is impressive; beautiful lakes and coastal views all the way. Simon and I went straight to the boulders and he jumped into the role of tour guide, pointing me at problems and demonstrating how to climb in Squamish by effortlessly floating up the classics. I spent a few days in this way, being shown around and climbing as much as I could on the Magic Wood-esque rocks. I managed to cross classics like No Troublems, Worm World Cave low and Resurrection off my list as well as Ride the Lightning (high mantle crux on this one!), Sesame Street and some other great problems.
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Ride the Lightning (V8), Photo Brian Goldstone
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Resurrection (V9), Photo Brian Goldstone
During my stay in Squamish I was grateful to be offered a spare room in a house with some local climbing ladies, Elise and Laura– this was my first taste of the hospitality and generosity that flows around Squamish. They really made me feel at home and being there made my trip all the more fun and sociable.
I also spent a few days doing photo-shoots with Brian Goldstone from Arc’teryx and working with a film crew to get footage for Arc’teryx’s short film about the Squamish Mountain Festival (SQMF). I was psyched that they wanted to use me to showcase their festival, an honour indeed.
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ATD (V7), Photo Brian Goldstone
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Squealing Pork (V7), Photo Brian Goldstone
Next up was a much-anticipated tour around Arc’teryx’s offices and factory in Vancouver. Really impressive to see how their complex technical gear is produced at factory level; amazingly skilled workers and a very organized system! I felt really grateful to be involved with a company that took the time to show me their inside workings and to involve me in their development. I even got to throw ideas around with the designers about upcoming Arc’teryx products!
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Arc’teryx Factory magic
Heading back to Squamish, there was one thing remaining that had been on my mind all week: my lecture. I was very nervous and the time had come around to face the music and get up and talk. I had put a lot of effort into preparing a slideshow for the SQMF and this helped calm my nerves, I had a plan and I just needed to follow it through. The evening began with other speakers and films and I got to watch for a while first. Craig DeMartino’s lecture was the most notable of the evening for me; an articulate, interesting, emotional and inspiring story. If you ever get the chance to go to one of his talks, take it.
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Craig and I after our talks, relaxed! Photo Brian Goldstone.
As with most things that make me nervous, once I started the nerves dissipated and I found myself actually enjoying it! It went pretty smoothly, I think I only lost my train of thought once…. I received lots of positive feedback afterwards too, which was really nice and reassuring. Thanks to anyone who came for putting me at ease and making it a fun experience!
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Mid-way through, clearly saying something very profound (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif) Photo Brian Goldstone
The next day it was time to travel home! A whirlwind trip, but a fantastic one. My favourite things about Squamish? Hmmm…let’s see:
1. The people and their generous and friendly nature.
2. The climbing of course….
3. Swimming in lakes after climbing or just for the sake of it
4. Awesome Sushi
Now a short break at home before Dave and I head to Rocklands on Monday! Can’t wait!
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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A Summer in Africa (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/a-summer-in-africa)
10 September 2013, 1:27 pm
Six weeks has flown by and I find myself sitting in Cape Town airport wondering how I can put down in words what a fantastic summer I have had. Do I start with the successes or the failures; the setting or the activity; the poignant moments or the general experience? Perhaps I should have written a blog earlier and broken this down into smaller bits.…Well I’ll have a go and try not to ramble on for too long.
David, Emma and I arrived at the end of July to a familiar and beautiful setting. We were here two years ago so this time our minds were full of anticipation for the climbs we left unclimbed. Some had denied us, as we weren’t strong enough, some we hadn’t even tried. We were happy to be back and keen to get stuck in.
I had a long list of boulders I wanted to climb. I had nearly done quite a few classics in 2011 so I had a lot of unfinished business. At the same time, I also wanted to see if I could up my game and I decided to try some harder boulders at the 8B level…testing the water I guess. So my list was pretty extensive, with a lot of classic 8As and 7C+s as well as climbs like The Vice and Mooiste Meisie (both 8B).
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Weichei-682x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/weichei)
Pendragon (8A), Photo David Mason
Six weeks sounds like a long time (and it is) but it raced past. Before I knew it we were half way through, Emma was leaving soon and James was arriving. Although I had had quite a lot of success on my classics list, I was not making the progress I wanted on the harder ones. I discovered early on that on both the harder climbs I could do all the moves. Good start. I could also do some okay links but then I started to hit a bit of a wall in different ways on both climbs. On The Vice, I found that I needed more than a day’s rest to recover from the beating it gave me and so I had some great sessions and some sessions where I was totally useless on it (knocking my confidence) and I had moments where I felt trying it was a bit silly. On Mooiste Meisie I made more progress but there was one move that I had a low percentage of success on….and it was right at the end! So, on the hard stuff front I had a tricky time. BUT, I have learnt that I am very nearly strong enough to climb that hard and it gave me confidence to try other things at that level. I think if I had focused purely on those climbs this trip, maybe things would have been different…but maybe they wouldn’t have.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Splash-of-Red-1024x493.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/splash-of-red)
A Splash of Red (7C+) (Video Still)
My distractions came in the form of many world-class, stunning lines – not bad distractions at all! My highpoints were:
Amphitheatre (8A+) – Which I found very hard and therefore very satisfying.
Out of Balance (8A) – One of the best lines in Rocklands.
Splash of Red (7C+) – A beautiful, high, nerve-wracking arête.
Barracuda (8A) – It denied me last time but felt like a different climb this year.
Tomorrow I Will Be Gone (7C) – A climb I thought I couldn’t do.
The Hatchling (8A) – I surprised myself by doing it first go (not a flash as I tried it in 2011…)
Cedar Spine (7B+) – High and stunning.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Out-of-Balance-1024x571.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/out-of-balance)
Out of Balance (8A) (Video Still)
These among others made my trip so enjoyable: climbing on brilliant rock, interesting movement and good lines.
The best thing I took away form this trip was a real sense of progression. Since my last trip in 2011 I have trained a lot, worked my weaknesses to death and it is so nice to have solid proof that it has paid off. Two years ago I managed with a fair bit of effort to climb Nutsa (8A) but this trip I was able to climb eight 8A’s, and an 8A+ and all with less fuss. No huge grade jump but it feels like a big step up. There were moves I couldn’t do then that I could do now and that was hugely satisfying. I was also able to open a door to harder things, peek in and get psyched to get stronger.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/A-Tea-with-Elmarie-1024x576.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/a-tea-with-elmarie)
A Tea with Elmarie (8A) (Video Still)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Ghost-in-the-Darkness-1024x600.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/ghost-in-the-darkness)
Ghost in the Darkness (7C+) (Video Still)
One sad thing was the closure of the Tea Garden area, which left me (and many others) unable to try Black Shadow (8A+). This was a nemesis from my last trip and so I was sad not to have the chance to revisit it. I can only hope that relations will improve with that particular landowner and the area will be re-opened in future years.
I thoroughly enjoyed watching David experience a similar progression in his climbing. He finished off The Vice (8B) (a nemesis from 2011), cruised up Mooiste Meisie (8B), won the fight with his endurance on Madiba (8B) and surprised himself by doing Sky (8B) in about 20 minutes! There is nothing better than watching someone you care about do well (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Sky-1-1024x576.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/a-summer-in-africa/sky-1)
David on Sky (8B) (Video Still)
So…now it is back home – Adidas Rockstars awaits, as does Vastervik in Sweden, then home for some limestone, some grit and some training.
Hopefully next year we will be able to go back to paradise – to try hard, top up our tans and get our year’s fill of fillet steak!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Tomorrow-I-Will-Be-Gone-1024x576.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/tomorrow-i-will-be-gone)
Tomorrow I Will Be Gone (7C) (Video Still) – appropriately did it on our last day!
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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From Stuttgart to Vastervik… (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/from-stuttgart-to-vastervik)
25 September 2013, 9:48 am
We arrived back in the UK from South Africa on Tuesday the 10th of September and by early Thursday morning I was back at the airport heading to Stuttgart for the annual Adidas Rockstars competition.
This is a really fun event and I thoroughly enjoyed the climbing, meeting friends and, of course, meeting new people too. Last year I was fortunate enough to make finals and so this year I was a bit disappointed that I didn’t climb well in the semi finals but, after a summer on rock, I was sure to remind myself that my expectations shouldn’t be too high! In fact, looking on the bright side, it was just the kick I needed at this point in the year to spur me on in my training! Big well done to Shauna who climbed well as usual!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/1277186_675451465818030_1775290846_o-682x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/1277186_675451465818030_1775290846_o)
Warming up for the Adidas Rockstars Event
So, the competition was done and some partying ensued. The next day was harder than usual as Shauna, Jon Cardwell, Florian from 5.10 and I headed to Nuremburg to do some filming to promote the new Team VXI shoe at Café Kraft.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/IMG_2638.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/img_2638)Our day at Cafe Kraft
The Team VXI is an interesting development in 5.10’s repertoire. With all over MI6 rubber, the shoe is very soft and is amazing at toe hooking and smearing on textured walls and volumes. Straight away you can see how good it is for those things but I wasn’t initially sold on it for small edges –the shoe felt unsupportive and like it would pop on tiny footholds. Interestingly, this improved as I learnt to use the shoe and I actually think that as you use the shoe more, your foot will get stronger and compensate for the lack of support. If all you want to do on a climb is stand on small edges then perhaps a stiffer shoe is in order but if you want an all round shoe to combat any kind of footwork then this one is great, just be patient as your foot adapts.
After some filming and climbing at Café Kraft, our next stop was Vastervik in Sweden. Shauna, Ned, Dave and I had been invited to the Bouldering meet this year and we were met with incredible hospitality and kindness from the climbers there. We were shown around some great bouldering areas and got to try some really cool lines. The granite is good quality and varied which means lots of types of boulders to keep busy on. I managed to climb some cool boulders that I was really pleased with. The festival was a great success, with climbing in the daytime and talks or films in the evening. The development in this area has been done by a handful of climbers and I have great admiration for their psyche and commitment – thank you for finding these boulders and inviting us to climb them with you!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/the-office1.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/the-office-2)
The Office sds (8A), Photo Stefan Rasmussen
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Est-Coast-Warrior1-1024x576.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/est-coast-warrior-2)
Est Coast Warrior (7C+), Video Still
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Mina-David-O-Goliat-3-small-1024x682.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/mina-david-o-goliat-3-small)
David o Goliat (8A), Photo David Mason
As I mentioned earlier, we were really looked after during our stay – even our rest day was amazing! Jim arranged for us to take a boat out to one of the islands, where we had a picnic (Sanna had baked a yummy cake) and played with the jellyfish! Then we had a cold dip in the sea followed by a sauna – I wish all my rest days were like that!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Mina-Jelly-small1-682x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/mina-jelly-small-2)
Holding a jellyfish!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Jetty-small1-1024x682.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/jetty-small-2)
Beautiful view of the jetty, Photo David Mason
We also ran a clinic at the local wall, which was great fun and hopefully all useful stuff for those that attended. A special thanks to Jim, Stefan, Sanna and Erik for making our trip so fun and memorable.
Here is a video of me on The Office (8A) from Stefan Rasmussen:
Mina (http://vimeo.com/75079653) from stefan rasmussen (http://vimeo.com/user1625610) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com).
We have quite a bit of footage to show at some point – Dave has been editing like a busy bee…..maybe Rocklands stuff first though…. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Pushing it (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/pushing-it)
17 October 2013, 9:42 am
What do you understand by trying hard: training for a climbing trip or getting up early to try your project? Going out in the rain to find dry rock, embarking on a tenth session or buying the shoes that you know will work on that move? Or are we talking about something more specific: that split-second moment when you should be falling off but you dig deep – somewhere hidden and not often called upon – and for a moment you think nothing, see nothing, experience nothing. But you’re still on the rock.
Are you really trying hard when you climb? Are you pushing as far as you possibly can? Do you have the capacity, the energy and the motivation? I’m talking about something past what one first thinks of as trying: a new level; an indefinable concept of effort. It’s a factor entirely dependent on the capacity of the individual. Take Adam Ondra’s primal screams of effort or Chris Sharma’s roars of power – both of them, I believe, know the depths of what I am talking about. So is it natural or learnt? Do some people just know how to go there while some linger on the outskirts, unable to break down their barriers? I believe we can all go there if we want to, if we realise that there is an arena into which we have not been, if we are explorers and we are willing to take it on.
My memory of finding this tool – and a tool it is, not to be over-used, but applied in force when needed – lies with one boulder problem. It was freezing cold and I was tired, but my motivation was high, my hunger to achieve insatiable. I had fallen over 20 times on the last move, over a handful of sessions including the one I was immersed in. I felt like I had learnt to fall there, it was part of my sequence now and I didn’t know how to combat it. But I really wanted to. Funny, how some of life’s best lessons are learnt in moments of relative desperation. I don’t know what was different on the go I held the move. I don’t remember much except that I experienced a sort of ‘blank’ moment and I heard a low, guttural noise that I later realised had originated from somewhere deep within me. I had knocked down a barrier, mental and physical, and I knew it then: I felt a palpable growth in my potential, just in that moment. I had accidentally found and understood something about myself and my limits, something precious and also overwhelming.
The enemy of this ability, this tool, as with many things in life, is fear. When you put everything you have into something, utterly and completely, there is no room for pride, ego or, even, shame. You are opening yourself up to a new level of failure – a complete failure with no excuses or reasons. If you harness this tool, you will inevitably face this kind of failure where you have held nothing back, but you are still not good enough. Be aware of this risk, this potential pain, but be inspired by how much you can achieve by digging deep, by finding that last grain of power and pushing it to the surface. Your horizons will widen, your understanding of your limitations will expand and your successes will mount up.
This lesson was a turning point for me: a realisation of what trying really means, of how far I could push and what I could achieve. I learnt to tap into a reserve that I didn’t know existed and it fuelled me forwards in my climbing.
How far could you go if you really, really tried?
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Amphitheatre-small-3-1-682x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/amphitheatre-small-3-1)
Amphitheatre – I had to try bloody hard on this one! Photo David Mason
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Strong post :strongbench: I bet that growl was something to hear.
If you harness this tool, you will inevitably face this kind of failure where you have held nothing back, but you are still not good enough.
Actually, facing that can be quite easy when one is a complete punter ;). It's holding stuff back due to other fears that is the hard bit in my experience.
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good post, I think at whatever level you climb at, you face this situation, the fear of failure, making a fool of yourself (in your head if nowhere else). Digging deep and getting down to the animal within is indeed a tool. A tool that can be used in the rest of life when life throws shit at you - which it will, regularly and frequently.
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Having just got my first smart phone I was able to read that between goes on the board in the garage. Definitely led to a little more effort.
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Essentially the article that appeared in the most recent Summit.
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CAC Calendar thoughts… (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/cac-calendar-thoughts)
26 October 2013, 4:03 pm
I wanted to write a blog to give a bit of background on the CAC Calendar. I know there has been some criticism out there, as expected, and I wanted to use this opportunity to share my side of the story. Shauna’s blog (http://ukbouldering.com/board/http:/www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/2013/10/climbers-go-pin-up-for-cac)gives some insight into how the idea was born and developed – here I wanted to discuss some issues that came up for me.
I will start by saying that I think it is important that sports people in the media are responsible and conscious of how they are represented: for their own personal liability but also for the image it puts forward for the sport as a whole.
So, based on what I just said, was the CAC calendar risky or downright irresponsible?
That was a decision I had to make when I was contemplating whether or not to be a part of it. I would like to, for the sake of being honest and forthright, share with you my thought process around this and give some insight into how I, personally (and I can only really speak for myself), came to the decision to support the calendar and take part.
For me there are some core issues:
Female representation in the media is a complex issue. I would be the first to argue that I don’t want to encourage women in sport being recognized and valued for their looks/ sex appeal over their ability and achievements. And certainly not exploited. Understandably, just the connotations of a calendar made me nervous about this. Was there a way to do this well or was it always going to be a trade off in morality?
Another part of my brain argues that sports women may be feminine and sexy by nature – are they required to hide this/shy away from it in order to be taken seriously? Does the fault lie with the woman in the image portrayed or with the person viewing that image and what they decide to think about it? Is this an issue that we as women have to control from our end or is it an issue in society at large? When we see a sexy image of David Beckham, do we change what we think of his achievements or is the picture just a separate event? Can we separate these things when it comes to women, or are we just not there yet? I guess it comes down to the age-old question of whether supporting women’s rights and shaving one’s legs are mutually exclusive. Can we be sexy/feel positive about sex and still be feminists?
A point that is worth mentioning is the value something like this has in appreciating a healthy/athletic female physique as opposed to an unhealthy version. Women (as with men) are in the media regardless, and I would much rather see women with six packs than a woman so skinny she looks close to passing out. More specific to climbing, it also demonstrates that in a sport that requires a good set of arm muscles, it is still possible to embrace one’s femininity (if one should choose to do so).
Shauna tried to gauge it well from the beginning: the pictures are meant to be fun and lighthearted. Perhaps that is easier to see when you know all the women involved. The idea was that we would show another side of the climbers that are usually seen only in a climbing context. These women are people, not just climbers; some are into music and art, some prefer a good book; some paint their nails, some don’t; some love the camera, some shy away; some are full of jokes, some serious. There is so much more to these women than the calendar shows, of course, but even the calendar shows more personality than we normally get to see. We picked a fancy dress theme and went with it. I urge you to look past whether there is skin on show or not –see the glint in Angie’s eye, laugh with me and Jule, appreciate Anna’s six pack, admire Meagan’s confident flare and by all means be wowed by Akiyo’s beauty.
So, back to my question at the beginning, I think this calendar was risky. But I hope it does not come across irresponsible – that is the last thing anyone involved would want and we have worked hard to try to do it right. What tipped the balance for me? Firstly, it was the brainchild of two women, photographed by a woman and managed by a woman so I felt safe that it would be handled carefully. Secondly, it was for a charity and one that I care a lot about. If this calendar was for profit, I may not have done it because it wouldn’t have been worth the aforementioned risk of misinterpretation and controversy. Raising money for cancer research, in my opinion, made it worth taking that risk and hoping that people would see it in the way it was meant. And thirdly, we had a lot of fun making it!
When I was deciding what to do, I thought a lot about what my mother would say. She was an intellectual woman, very aware of gender issues and would have been a good person to consult. Sadly she died of cancer when I was seventeen so I can’t ask her, but if I could I think she would agree that we took a risk, a risk that was managed well and that produced something expressive, fun and lighthearted. I hope that fewer great people are lost to cancer in the future and if we can help that a little bit then brilliant. I look forward to a men’s calendar in 2015!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/1377205_443160459138784_1717239992_n.jpg)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Unfamiliar…. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/unfamiliar)
27 November 2013, 9:19 am
Hanging out, bouldering at Stanage Plantation it is impossible not to look at the giant, imposing arête that is Unfamiliar. I remember watching Dan Varian and Ned Feehally trying it above pads one time and thinking they were mad. At the same time, seeing them there moved Unfamiliar in my mind from being a scary trad route, to a highball: a small shift in perspective but a powerful one. I have very little trad experience but I have done a fair bit of highballing.
The climb was on my “one day” list, a mental reference to things I was keen for but also scared of. Although all the hard climbing was now being done above pads as a highball, the top section was above gear and was not trivial.
Last week, David said he was keen to get back on it and I took the chance to go along and have a go. It was one of those perfect blue-sky grit days, even maybe a bit too cold! At first, I really struggled with the beginning section, not finding the body position and failing to commit to rocking up onto the arête. Call me a wuss, but even with pads it felt insecure, like you could pop off in any direction and tumble down the hill! I got more and more confident but was still not fully committing. My highpoint that day was the top pocket and the left arête, not being able to make myself do the foot moves. I jumped off from there and went home annoyed with myself for being scared. It was an inspiring day though as Ethan and then David both lead the route successfully. I was determined to go back in a better headspace.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/unfamiliar2.jpg)
First session trying Unfamiliar (Photo Ethan Walker)
So the following Friday we went back. In the three days between, I had been ruminating con about the route, watching footage, and even dreaming about it! I visualised getting to the same place but in my head I wouldn’t hesitate or be scared, I would just keep climbing. I visualised the top section too, unknown except for watching other people and tried to mentally rehearse what I was going to do when I got there. I tried to practice not being scared.
So we went back and I was a lady with a plan (doesn’t rhyme so well…). Except the weather was not what we had hoped and everything was wet. Unfamiliar was not completely wet, but the top half was and so we waited to see if a wind would pick up and dry it for us. As the afternoon went on it began to look a lot drier and David abbed down it to chalk the holds and check out the condition. It looked okay so he pre-placed the gear for us (I will come back to this) and Nathan and I began to work it from the ground. The conditions actually felt really good on the bottom half and after a few goes I found myself at my previous highpoint but committing this time and pulling through to gain the break and clip the gear. I had planned to rest here for a bit and compose myself but on reaching the break I realised quickly that I couldn’t reach the good right foothold anymore (that the others stood on to shake out a bit), so was unable to shake my right arm out easily. Sod’s Law was in full force as that was the pumped arm from the small pockets lower on the climb. So my mental process went something like “ better get on with it then, before this pump gets any worse” and I proceeded to the next moves. The top section was actually fine, it went pretty smoothly to begin with but I was aware that, although the handholds were dry, some of the footholds were a bit on the damp side. They were making that horrible scrittely sound. Pulling over the top onto the slab is not hard but it’s also not as simple as getting out of a pool and requires some smearing (on fairly good holds). As I pulled over the top, both my feet popped at once and I was very nearly off! I managed to compose myself and try again, topping out to a mixture of adrenaline fuelled relief and happiness. I have always wanted to climb that line and I was so happy to have done it.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/unfamiliar-1024x576.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/unfamiliar)
Video Still – Nick Brown
For the sake of clarity, I would like to talk a little about the style of my ascent. I climbed Unfamiliar ground up, above pads with pre-placed gear. Ground up because I had not got to a point where I felt a rope was needed to work the moves (but I would have considered it later on had I not had success). This ties in with trying it above pads – ground up is much safer and more achievable that way. I essentially saw the climb as a boulder problem that had a bit of gear at the top rather than a potentially leg-breaking trad route above no pads. Each to their own, but this was my personal choice. Regarding the pre-placed gear, I have very minimal gear placing experience and was not confident placing the gear on lead. So it was another personal decision. Placing gear is a skill and an art and I have the upmost respect for experienced trad climbers. I would not be so bold as to jump in the deep end and assume I can do it well with little practice. Perhaps in the future, with more experience I will make a different decision. Lastly, the style in which I climbed it is exactly the same as many other ascents of this route, including that of Ethan, Dave, Ned etc so perhaps times are changing and there is simply more than one way to skin a cat.
Does it detract from the ascent? Is it still E7/E8? I don’t know and I don’t really mind to be honest. I wanted to climb the line; if it had been smaller, I would have tried to highball the whole thing but, as it is, that was not a clever option. I am a boulderer; I see it more as a highball 7C with some gear at the top than an E7/E8 really. Pads definitely make it safer, that’s for sure. Perhaps, gritstone grades need to be more malleable to take into account style now …my experience does not qualify me to know what a certain E grade feels like so I can’t really comment any further…
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Unfamiliar-small-1024x677.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/unfamiliar-small) Unfamiliar – Photo Nick Brown
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Southern Sandstone in the US (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/southern-sandstone-in-the-us)
13 January 2014, 8:51 pm
This trip to the South East was part of a deal between David and myself. I have been hankering after a trip to Hueco Tanks for a long time and it ended up not being on our agenda the last time we came to the USA – it didn’t make sense geographically with our plans and so we deferred it.
This year I was determined to go there; I have never been and it looked like the ultimate playground. David was happy to go but also had a deep desire to sample the sandstone delights of the South East. Although I was keener for Hueco, I trust David’s intuition on destinations as well as his thorough research into them, and it seemed like a good bet. The weather was said to be more of an issue than other US destinations but we were told that the rock was worth the risk. As many of you will rightly know, relationships are all about compromise and so we did. This trip was to begin in Chattanooga and then we would head to El Paso.
What can I say? I lucked out on this deal. Not only do I get to go to Hueco Tanks (we leave tomorrow) but I also got the chance to experience the impeccable rock around Chattanooga. There are lots of small areas but the main three are Little Rock City, Rocktown and Horse Pens 40. All different in style but all share incredible rock quality. It is comparable to Fontainebleau in style and rock but on a smaller scale.
Our time here has been spent mainly trying more moderate boulders, working our way through classics as much as we can. We both also tried some harder things, with David ticking almost everything he touched, and me just coming short of the harder ones……but that’s okay, the joy is in the process and I got close on things that I thought I wouldn’t be strong enough to try. I am learning that there are different ways to measure success; it is not always defined by toping out a boulder….
I will let pictures tell the rest…check out some of the amazing features!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/millipede.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/millipede) Incredible slopers on Millipede (V5), Photo Jamie Emerson
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Space-1024x619.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/space)
Finishing up the techy Space (V8)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dave-trick-or-treat.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/dave-trick-or-treat)
David rocking his leggings on Trick or Treat (V6)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/white-face.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/white-face)
White Face (V10)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/golden-harvest.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/golden-harvest)Golden Harvest (V10)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Trick-or-treat-1024x640.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/trick-or-treat)Eying up a slope on Trick or Treat (V6)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/god-module1-1024x605.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/god-module-2)The one that got away: God Module. I got so close but no cigar….
Oh and we stayed in a space ship….
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Space-ship-1024x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/space-ship)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Hueco Tanks (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/hueco-tanks)
18 February 2014, 4:15 pm
Hueco Tanks: where climbers go to crimp, turn 360 in a roof, knee-bar, toe-hook, heel-hook and power scream. Where we Brits go to climb everyday, continually amazed by the stable climate, treading the fine line between tan and burn.
So were our expectations when we rocked up on the 14th January, leaving the soft, skin-friendly sandstone of the southeast behind us. The tone had changed already for me, I was preparing to try hard and feel wrecked. I loved the climbing in the southeast but I was ready to feel exhausted, to end the day not being able to do another move. To feel my muscles ache as weakness left my body, replaced by Hueco-induced power. To put it simply, I was psyched out of my mind.
We were lucky enough to stay with some friends on their land. Wagon Wheel, or “The Stronghold” as Melissa and Adam often call it, was such a fun place to stay. We rented their old trailer and it made a great little home for the month that we were there. Not only was it peaceful and simple, it was socially perfect as we climbed a lot with Melissa and Wick and then with our British contingency Tom, Adam and James when they came out. We were lucky to meet up with lots of people we knew too, including Max, Liberty and Layla. It felt like a little community with just the right amount of everything.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Wagon-Wheel.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/wagon-wheel)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Boys.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/hueco-tanks/boys)Dave, Tom and Adam doing Brits everywhere proud with their fashion sense…
The climbing was different in some ways to what I expected, the rock was sharper but I felt able to adjust to that relatively quickly. A sort of acceptance appears and one’s pain tolerance just increases with demand. The movement in Hueco is fantastic; the problems are really three dimensional and interesting, with lots of fun beta. As I hoped, it was very physical and I definitely got a good work out! David and I both found we had to rest more than we expected, often falling back to day on/day off when our skin and bodies demanded it.
The climbing in general was really positive for me, I felt confident and strong and was able to climb a lot of the things that I wanted to climb. My most satisfying and favourite problems were:
Barefoot on Sacred Ground V12 (with a direct top out….scary!)
Rumble in the Jungle V12 (V11 for the tall but a different story for the less tall peeps)
Chablanke V11
Le Chninkel V11 (dubbed Schnitzel due to my inability to recall the name properly)
Flower Power V10 (So much fun, one of the best)
Choir Boys V9 (awesome moves, very burly)
Power of Silence V10 (classic)
Full Service V10 (another favourite)
King Cobra V6
I could go on, there are so many fun problems in Hueco, it really is just a big kids’ playground. Here are some photos:
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Rumble.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/rumble)Rumble in the Jungle, V12
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Power-of-Silence-Mina-3-small-1024x682.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/power-of-silence-mina-3-small)Power of Silence, V10, Photo David Mason
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Chablanke.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/chablanke)Chablanke, V11, Photo David Mason
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Mojo.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/mojo)Mojo, V10, Photo Max Moore
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Full-Service-Screen-Shot--1024x640.jpg)Full Service, V10
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Chninkel.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/chninkel)Le Chninkel, V11, Photo Melissa Strong
As I write this we are on our way home. We are tired and worked from what was a great last weekend: The Hueco Rock Rodeo. Organised with extreme dedication and effort by Melissa Strong, this event was ace.
The best thing about the weekend for me was the opportunity to spend the day climbing with a group of really strong girls! It was a competition technically but it didn’t feel like it. We spurred each other on, shared beta, laughed and got to know one another better. Big thanks from me to Jule, Nina and Courtney for making it so fun. I was psyched to come 2nd managing to climb two V10s, three V9s and a couple of V8s that day. Well done for Jule for piping me to the post with an extra V11! Very inspiring to watch her send (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Before the competition day, I had the opportunity to give an evening lecture/slideshow on Self Efficacy in Climbing, which I enjoyed (through nerves). Thanks to everyone there for the positive reception and the good feedback, it’s always nice to hear that a lecture is well received.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Lecture.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/lecture)
A massive well done to Melissa for her tremendous effort with the Rodeo and all that went into it. The climbing day went smoothly, the food and music were great, the prizes were awesome, the goody bags were fab and it was a true success!
So now we are homeward bound and the hard training has to begin. I am hoping to do the World Cup Circuit again this year and I want to keep improving so the grafting must commence. It starts with our GB Team Trials this Sunday.…talk about hitting the ground running!
Until next time US of A…. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Rodeo.jpg)Rodeo day fun, Photo Melissa Strong
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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CWIF, Tierra Boulder Battle and a Crowd Funding Venture! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/cwif-tierra-boulder-battle-and-a-crowd-funding-venture)
11 April 2014, 4:12 pm
Writing this now, the CWIF seems a long time ago! I was looking forward to it this year and I was also nervous to see how it panned out. In the 2013 competition season I struggled with insomnia quite a bit and the CWIF weekend last year was when it started. Normally I am great at sleeping, but something about competitions brought out anxiety and I just couldn’t nod off! So this year I wasn’t just nervous about the competition but nervous about whether it would again be the start of a sleep struggle. Luckily, the weekend came and went and I slept like a baby, I have to say I was very relieved! The actually competition felt different to usual, there was a much bigger foreign contingent than previous years and I knew that it was going to be a push to make finals….so I made that my goal. I made some mistakes in the semis but managed to scrape through in 5th. Happy to have made it in, I relaxed and really enjoyed the experience of finals. I climbed well on some problems and not so well on others but I surprised myself and was happy to end up on the podium in 3rd place!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/CWIF2014-16-of-60.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/cwif2014-16-of-60)Finals, bloc 1. Photo Dom Worrall
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/CWIF2014-15-of-60.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/cwif2014-15-of-60)
Finals, bloc 1. Photo Dom Worrall
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/CWIF2014-69-of-122.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/cwif2014-69-of-122)Finals, bloc 3. Photo Dom Worrall
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/CWIF2014-114-of-122.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/cwif2014-114-of-122)
Finals, bloc 4 – managed to hold the move! Photo Dom Worrall
Overall it was a great weekend; the Climbing Works put a lot of time and energy into making it a fun and enjoyable event for everyone and we are lucky to have such a committed wall as our local! Thanks guys (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Not very long after the CWIF, I found myself en route to Stockholm again to take part in this year’s Tierra Boulder Battle. I went to this event last year and I would always go back! Everyone there is really friendly and I know I am going to have a fun weekend.
We arrived on Thursday and it was straight to setting. In this competition, the 6 girls (Alex Puccio, Mina Markovic, Hannah Midtboe, Minna Almqvist, Monika Retschy and I) all set one problem each, we test them all and then we compete on them on Saturday night. This format makes for an interesting competition and adds a really unusual component to competition climbing. The problems are a lot harder and generally more basic than in normal competitions purely because we get to work them. This weekend doesn’t feel that competitive to be honest, it was actually a really nice opportunity to make or solidify friendships and have a laugh with the other girls.
The other best thing for me in this competition was actually the setting. I don’t set very often and I wouldn’t normally say I was great at it (I wasn’t particularly proud of my problem last year) but this time I was really pleased with what I produced! The creative side of me satisfied, it was time to try the other problems! In the practice I really struggled. I was tired from travelling and a week of training and I was nervous about the competition, anticipating a slightly embarrassing inability to get off the ground! We had two rest days and miraculously, I felt a lot better when it came time to compete. I actually wasn’t that happy with my climbing in the competition but it was better than the practice session so I can’t complain! It also gave me some really good pointers for what to work on in my last few weeks before the World Cup circuit starts.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/smallone.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/smallone)
Climbing on my problem! Photo Joel Zerr
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/0.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/tierra-boulder-battle-2014-photo-joel-zerr)
Photo Joel Zerr
Now, speaking of World Cups, the GB team has had a very unusual experience in the lead up to the season this year. We lost a big chunk of funding due to one of the team sponsors being unable to fulfil their side of the contract and this happened just six weeks before the season started. Team members had already gone through selection and funding had already been allocated, which then had to be withdrawn. I was still really keen to compete in the season; I had put a lot of time and energy into training, as had many other team members who were now faced with dropping out. So….with some trepidation we launched a crowd funding campaign to see if we could raise the money back. We were very unsure from the start about whether this was a a) a good idea and b) would actually work. In the UK, competitions have not always had the best reputation and haven’t always been considered a worthwhile venture by many. Bearing that in mind, we were sticking our necks out a bit in asking for help.
So, my god, we were shocked when we hit our £8000 target in 24 hours! It was supposed to run for six weeks and we were left a bit stunned. The response was immense and financially it put us back on the map as a team. It meant more than the finances though. It was a huge statement from our community. As a group you told us that you value us, that you think we are good enough and that you are there with us, invested (literally), in our goals. As (Dave Prince) talks about in his really nice piece (http://www.timeticks.co.uk/2014/04/we-are-all-in-this-together.html) - that confidence, that belief, could well be the extra 1% we need. So thank you, for getting us there and for giving us the confidence to perform.
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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World Cups and a Missing Mojo (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/world-cups-and-a-missing-mojo)
26 May 2014, 4:52 pm
It feels like a long time since I put pen to paper (despite being a bit inaccurate it sounds much better than fingers to keyboard) and to be honest that is because I haven’t really known what to say. I still don’t really know what to say but I am going to do my best to be articulate, so please bear with me.
Rewind to the end of last year’s World Cup season and I was psyched out of my mind. I had set some goals for 2013 (make top ten and make a final), I had achieved the first but not the second but I had been sooooo close to finals and I was ready to go back to training and try again. I was keen to climb outside and I had some great trips lined up (Rocklands, the US and also some quality time spent at the Tor) but I was also determined to train too and get stronger for the 2014 World Cup season. I worked myself so hard. Before Christmas, I was training at the wall, lifting weights at the gym, running, and climbing at the Tor to exhaustion. After Christmas we went to the US, but when we got back I did 9 weeks of almost exclusive training; mornings was climbing based followed by some conditioning and in the afternoons I would bust a gut in the weights gym. Almost everyday. Plus running. Plus watching what I ate.
Why I am telling you this? To be transparent about how hard I tried and how psyched I was and to put into context the next bit so you can see how confused I am now.
It was about 1.5 weeks before Shauna and I left for the first World Cup in China when something strange happened. I woke up and I wasn’t psyched. I didn’t want to train; I didn’t want to go to the gym. This sounds reasonable but even when I was tired in the past, I still wanted to go, I enjoyed it and I thrived off feeling tired and worked. But this felt different. It was like someone came in the night and stole my mojo. I put it down to doing so much and the comps arriving and wanting to just get going with them and I didn’t worry about it. We went to China and I put a face of excitement on.
I won’t regale you with all the details of the competitions but there was one consistent thing: my mojo was nowhere to be seen. Now, I want to be clear, this was not a reaction to bad results. My results weren’t even that bad! They weren’t as good as last year but they weren’t too shabby. It was before competing that my mojo was most notably absent, warming up in isolation I felt pure apathy towards the coming event. Don’t get me wrong, I went out and tried hard and I enjoyed it but I didn’t have the grit of my 2013 self. It was like the desire just wasn’t there.
Shauna and I were away for a whole month and we did four World Cups in that time. It was a really fun month in many ways, we saw some amazing new places, we got lost a lot, we laughed about silly things and we climbed in the competitions. One of the best things was seeing Shauna do so well. She has been so close to winning for so long, I can’t think of anyone who deserves it more. It was great to see her standing on top of the podium twice in a row. Knowing how hard she works and how resilient she has had to be, it was very inspiring. When I talk about my desire and psyche for competitions disappearing, I must stress that that is very personal to me and is not meant to criticise or undermine competition climbing as a venture. I hugely admire good competition climbers and I think they have an incredible skill set, one that I wish I had. I have pushed myself so hard to improve in an area that doesn’t come easily to me and I think I have just got to the point where I am tired of it. My head wants to battle on but my heart is elsewhere and I am finally giving in to it.
I have decided not to do the next few events (Toronto, Vail and Haiyang) to give myself some time to reset and also to manage a finger injury that I have picked up while away. I may do Laval and I may do the World Championships in Munich but I haven’t decided on those yet. Initially I felt very guilty, especially after all the support the GB team has received through the Crowd Funder but realistically it would be wrong for any of the funding raised to be used for a team member who isn’t in the zone when we have others who are psyched and fully equipped to push on. You can’t fake psyche, trust me I tried!! All I know right now is that I have to rediscover my mojo and my love for climbing and I think I know where that will take me…..…..I may do the odd event in the future (even the near future) for fun but for the most part I am stepping down from competitions and I am going to focus on climbing outdoors from now on in.
Making that decision was a very conflicting process (see my thoughts on failure (http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/the-art-of-losing) and what it means to us) but has left me feeling hugely relieved and excited about the future. There are so many places I want to visit and I am so very fortunate to have support from my sponsors to do this; so now is the time to let go of the things that don’t make me happy and to widen my horizons in the things that fill me with excitement.
Thanks to everyone for all the support over the last two years in the competitions, it was hugely appreciated. A massive good luck to all the GB team heading into the next few World Cup events! Over and out.
Here are some pictures from our World Cup travels:
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/grindlewald.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/grindlewald)
Grindelwald, Photo Eddie Fowke
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/grindelwald.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/grindelwald)
Grindelwald, Photo Eddie Fowke
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/grindel.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/grindel)
Grindelwald, Photo Eddie Fowke
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/baku-1024x683.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/baku)
Hiding from the sun in Baku, Photo Eddie Fowke.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Innsbruck-14.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/innsbruck-14)
Navigating a slab in Innsbruck, Photo Eddie Fowke.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/photo-2-768x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/world-cups-and-a-missing-mojo/photo-2)
Shauna on the podium in Grindelwald! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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It must be awful to train so hard for something and then find you're just not motivated for it. Here's hoping that it is just overtraining and with a few weeks rest and doing different things your psyche returns.
Failing that, at least all that effort won't have hurt your prospects at the Tor at all...
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Psyche is organic , you can't force it. You can feel a bit helpless when it goes (happened to me recently) but you've got to roll with the punches and go with what feels right.
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Well said brother Doyle.
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Sounds like a dose of outdoor sport climbing would be just the ticket to take your mind off the comps. There is the Tor and if you can make it up to Yorkshire, there are world class routes up at Malham that Ondra and Megos rave about - could be a good call for a psyche recharge.
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South African Summer (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/south-african-summer)
7 August 2014, 2:24 pm
Once again, summer came around and it was a no-brainer. For bouldering, the summer time is somewhat more limited in venue choice; you’re looking at Australia (fire issues this year and just a flippin’ long way), Magic Wood (still pretty hot and gets all that European rain stuff), Squamish (still really a bit too hot) or Africa. We’d been to Rocklands twice before and loved it so we decided to go back.
The trip had a different tone though. We had both done a lot of classics on previous trips and we were keen to be more in ”project mode”. “Project Mode”, it turns out, translates to “falling off the same climb lots of times and finding extreme joy in minute progress”. For me, this climb was The Vice: a power-endurance compression climb that set my bar high at V13/8B.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/The-vic-1024x643.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/the-vic)
Me working the Vice, Photo David Mason.
Setting the bar high isn’t always a bad thing; it means having confidence in yourself, it means dreaming of what you want not what you think might be realistic. It means opening yourself up to vulnerability and putting yourself in a position where there is a decent chance you might not succeed. It’s exciting and scary in whatever context, it could be climbing or work or a relationship. So, if like me, you get to the end of the trip and you don’t succeed, where does that leave you? Happy you got to try? Sad you didn’t succeed?
I felt disappointment initially and some shame at being wrong about what I thought I could do. BUT…after some time I felt content and psyched. I felt content knowing that I had tried my hardest and psyched that I was nearly good enough. That might sound strange but in climbing there is such a fine line between success and failure, it only takes a little bit of something to turn the tables, and that is my plan. The table is going to get spun around and it’s going to land on its head not knowing whether or not it is still a table.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Rainbow-1024x578.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/rainbow)
Stormy rainbow view from our caravan, Photo David Mason.
I have massively digressed. After I threw in the towel on The Vice, I turned my hand to some slightly easier climbs that I hadn’t done on earlier trips and was psyched to do some new stuff like Leopard Cave (8A+), The Arc (8A), Au Bord De L’Eau (8A) and Shallow Cave (8A) and Timeout (7C). One of the real positives was that on a couple of these climbs (Au Bord De L’Eau and Timeout) I had been unable to do all the moves on the previous year!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/The-Arc.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/the-arc)Video still of the Arc (8A)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/View-1024x682.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/view)
Me and Brooke putting the world to rights whilst admiring the view, Photo David Mason
Then we decided to head to Cape Town to check out some of the climbing there.
Wow. It’s incredible. We were pretty astounded and also slightly at a loss as to why we had taken so long to check it out. The rock is Fontainebleau level quality, and although in the four days we had there we didn’t even go to all the main areas, we saw some stunning lines! Pandemonium (8A) was a favourite, a classic put up by Marijus Smegelsis.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Pandemonium.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/pandemonium)Video still of Pandemonium (8A).
We both have some unfinished business in Cape Town now so maybe next year Africa will still be an attractive summer venue…..
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Penguins-1024x549.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/penguins)
Penguins! Photo David Mason
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Katy tells my tale and I tell hers…. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/katy-tells-my-tale-and-i-tell-hers)
1 January 2015, 6:18 pm
The British limestone is very unique to say the least. We don’t have the massive 50m lines of tufas and the golden rock of Europe, but what we do have is a lot of history and character and us Brits are very proud of it. Conditions are often fickle as the UK gets a lot of rain; some seasons crags never even dry out or are un-climbable a month earlier than the year before. It makes projecting an interesting and often long-winded process.
This year Mina and I took on battle with Raven Tor, famous for its short and gnarly climbs like Hubble and Mutation. I was trying ‘Mecca The Mid Life Crisis’, 8b+ and Mina the extension of it, 8c.
Mina had previously made the first female ascent of Mecca a couple of years before, at the time making it the hardest ascent by a women on British soil – pretty inspiring. To be honest I thought Mecca was out of my league but Mina persuaded me it was a good idea and I got really psyched watching her cruise through Mecca most sessions to reach the head wall. From here she made steady progress, gradually getting higher each session. Then the conditions took a turn for the worst, it was 15+degrees and 95% humidity most sessions. Progress came to a grinding halt for the next month. For Mina, it turned into a mental battle, suddenly the self-doubt came flooding in and no amount of positive reinforcement or encouragement from other people can push these thoughts away, you have to truly believe it yourself. Personally I knew she could do it, it was only a matter of time and a bit of luck with conditions and it would be in the bag. We religiously checked the conditions all day, everyday trying to work out the best time to go. It started getting cold, and of course Mina started getting high; a move or so higher up the head wall each session. It was really cool seeing her full of energy and psyched again for the route. She totally relaxed and crushed, making her the first female to climb 8c on British soil!
Rewind a few weeks back. While I was battling away on Mecca Extension, Katy had taken on the challenge of Mecca. In the same little terraced house in Sheffield, she was mentally going through the moves on Mecca the Mid Life Crisis as I was upstairs still ruminating about the extension. The house was in redpoint mode and we were both psyched. Katy had tried Mecca a bit earlier in the year (and got pretty close) but with the wet holds that spring gives Raven Tor and a lot of travelling with work, she had mentally put it to one side until the autumn. Now it was time and she was keen to get involved again.
After some time away from a route, one always hopes to pick up where one left off; a seemingly reasonable but often misleading expectation given the hard style of climbing in the UK. Katy had to shelve those expectations and be prepared to fight the frustration in order to get back to her high point. It was fine at the start, steady progress was encouraging and, as those redpointers amongst you will know, any progress is like stardust to a psyched climber. Then she hit a bit of a wall; session after session she fell at the same move…. the psyche started to wear off and her confidence began to droop.
At this point, in our little house in Sheffield, a lot of tea was drunk around the kitchen table! We were both fighting demons and trying to push through walls of self-doubt, low psyche and frustration. I’m pretty sure we both cried, we gave each other advice we couldn’t take ourselves and prayed that at least one of us might break through and drag the other one into success!
It was Katy that made that breakthrough. Having struggled with a back problem for a few weeks, she began to get more treatment and it started to resolve… and her climbing improved dramatically alongside it. She felt less pain, she moved more freely and it gave her an opening to push on. Katy was actually working to a deadline, she was leaving for Canada for a work trip and was then heading off to Spain…. she had one session left to do the route.
I wasn’t with Katy that morning at the crag and, honestly, I wasn’t sure how it would go. She didn’t seem to care anymore; strung out by the emotional involvement, it was clear she was going through the motions of just “one more go”.
Maybe that is what needed to happen, maybe not caring as much helped to lift a load, to lower her expectations and remove some pressure.
She climbed the route that day.
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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The Science of Achievement vs the Art of Fulfilment. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/the-science-of-achievement-vs-the-art-of-fulfillment)
5 February 2015, 1:43 pm
My gut feeling about 2014 was that it was a testing year in my climbing, but when I look at what I achieved one might wonder why. I climbed multiple V12s and my hardest sport route to date, an 8c. Shouldn’t I describe that as one of my best years? Perhaps in numbers….but outcomes aren’t always the full story, and a “testing” year isn’t always a bad thing…..
Don’t get me wrong, I felt extremely fulfilled and happy when I clipped the chains on Mecca Extension….but by that point in the year I had already begun to make a shift, a shift that, I feel, allowed me to succeed on that route. That shift is what I want to talk about in this blog. That shift, in fact, has also made 2014 perhaps one of my most useful and most transformative years.
I feel like one of the toughest decisions (climbing-wise) that I have made was to stop competing (see blog (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/www.minalesliewujastyk.com/world-cups-and-a-missing-mojo)). I wasn’t happy, even when I was training for them but I am very good at pushing on, too good really. I convince myself that I want something and one of my best skills is to keep plugging away. That first half of the season before I stepped out of the circuit was completely draining and pretty soul destroying; I didn’t even do that badly but it ran a lot deeper than results. It was about self worth, commitment, deep-seated habits and failure. It was like, until that point, I wouldn’t set myself free from the competitions. It looked too much like failure and my ego couldn’t take it.
That was a turning point in self-acceptance for me. I took a step back and said to myself “you didn’t do as well as you wanted, you aren’t as good as a competitor as you would like to be, but that’s okay, you are enough”.
Funnily enough, even though I thought I had found some inner acceptance, I still found it extremely hard emotionally when I put a lot of time and effort into The Vice (8B) in Rocklands over the summer and wasn’t strong enough. It seemed I wasn’t done testing myself and I certainly wasn’t done learning. My point isn’t that I shouldn’t be pushing myself, it’s that I want to be able to do so with compassion, and without self-loathing when I come up short. That may sound dramatic but I know I’m not alone. I always see climbers struggling with their inability to perform; some throw things and shout; some cry and some just sit in silence.
I wanted climbing to be challenging but affirming, hard but enjoyable, fulfilling but not all-consuming.
The shift began in 2014 when I became reacquainted with an old friend: my yoga practice. I first practiced yoga as a teenager and have been in and out of it ever since. I have had some very intense periods and some phases of leaving it behind completely. I’ll be honest, like many I came into yoga from an exercise perspective initially. I saw it as a way to balance my body from the effects of climbing, to open my chest and my posture and to improve my flexibility. Yoga does do those things but in 2014 I discovered a depth to my practice and found an incredible source of stability, comfort, strength, resolve, compassion and release. Those reading this that have developed their own practice will know what I am talking about.
I found a space in my practice that was just mine, a place where I could observe my thoughts and feelings, see my many habits for what they are, finding a balance in the way I deal with myself. In the struggle to hold postures, I found a different kind of inner strength, a kind that doesn’t care how many pull ups you can do. After practising again for a few months I also started to find relative mental silence.
It connected me back to my breathing, sounds basic I know, but it felt hugely grounding and gave me a sense of control and safety. In that quiet struggle on my mat, I learnt about my fears, my happiness and my emotions. I made changes towards the positive, questioning my thoughts, my habits and finding more acceptance and compassion for myself and for other people.
It was these things that got me up Mecca Extension actually. When I was first trying it, I had so many thoughts in my head – beta, decisions, worries…the list goes on. I would get to the rest after the 8b+ section and my mind would be whirring with excitement and thoughts. My breathing would be hard and I was constantly analysing how pumped/tired I was. It felt like anxiety and hyper-awareness played a part in my physical performance.
By the time I did the route, I was at that rest and the only thing in my mind was “breathe in, breathe out”. No analysis, no thinking about the beta, just grounding myself through my breath and trusting in myself that I would know when my body was ready to move up and I would know how to climb the top section without thinking about the moves. I’ve never felt so weirdly connected to and at the same time detached from my body while climbing. Just how yoga became a moving meditation for me, so did climbing that day.
Some call it a flow experience and I guess that’s what it was. The key for me was that it didn’t just appear out of thin air, it came from practice, from finding that space on my mat and being able to reproduce it on the rock. I can’t always do it, but once found, I knew it was in me to go to that space.
I won’t rattle on for too long but I guess what I wanted to share was the change element, the discovery of something that has proved so moving and helpful to me. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea, of course, but it certainly is mine. I think it also has a lot to do with timing. I did yoga before but never made this mental shift; I guess I just wasn’t ready.
For the last month I have been in India, doing a 200-hour Yoga Teacher Training course and it has been incredible. All the things I have already mentioned have deepened, I have let go of a lot of things and at the same time have found a real love for teaching. During my time here I both laughed hard and cried like a child. I have cemented my learning and clarified my intentions for the kind of future I want to create: in life in general and also in my relationship to my climbing.
I am really psyched for climbing but I am going to try to move forward to new challenges with a more compassionate mind. I am also really excited to develop not only my personal yoga practice but also to begin teaching. The teaching element is two fold actually: firstly I love it and want to do it; secondly I want to have something else that is very solid outside my climbing. I want to not fully define myself (internally) by how far up a rock face I can get; I want to embrace my diversity and to do something outside of myself by sharing something meaningful with other people.
Over the last two or so years I have tried my best to make some kind of living out of climbing through sponsorship and it has been an interesting journey. I’ve played the social media game to a certain extent (very topical at the moment, I know) and have found it sometimes positive and useful and sometimes uncomfortable. I hope that moving forward with teaching will help me to find a good balance between my two passions and I hope to maintain the awareness to be true to myself in all my endeavours.
It’s been a hugely empowering process and I can’t wait for 2015.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/10940525_10152704179077424_4474050804560074913_n.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/10940525_10152704179077424_4474050804560074913_n)Centring ourselves before morning practice in the shala
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/10675712_917649271590_1151659545457560217_n.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/10675712_917649271590_1151659545457560217_n)
Evening light on Agonda Beach
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/image-2.jpeg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/the-science-of-achievement-vs-the-art-of-fulfillment/image-2)
Wise words
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/10410333_447463518744932_6712287132775260262_n.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/10410333_447463518744932_6712287132775260262_n)
Fining stillness and balance (involved some face planting in the sand too….)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/10612586_450661475091803_4125490103383768062_n.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/10612586_450661475091803_4125490103383768062_n)
We did it! Certified Yoga Teachers!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/10945555_552018211567830_6888608553252163116_n.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/10945555_552018211567830_6888608553252163116_n)
A great experience, made incredible by a very special group of people (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Lovely post.
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And a nice advert for taking up yoga, from a recently qualified yoga teacher ;)
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A load of hippie bullcrap
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A load of hippie bullcrap
Deep and 'mindfull[ness]'
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Lovely post.
This. Great to read a very good climber being unashamedly open and articulate about mental and emotional aspects. As well as climbing harder than 3-9 ever will.
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A load of hippie bullcrap
Deep and 'mindfull[ness]'
Yeah what Mina describes is very mindfulness-like, in-line with current trends.
Three-nine you'll probably dabble with your own 'hippie bullcrap' one day, my bet is around mid-thirties, if you ever get a life distracted-enough to benefit from it.
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"You climb for a whole year, for an hour of that"
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Nice post - I've also learnt that Mina's full name is Marina...
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Doesn't float my boat
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Doesn't float my boat
:lol:
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A load of hippie bullcrap
Deep and 'mindfull[ness]'
Yeah what Mina describes is very mindfulness-like, in-line with current trends.
Three-nine you'll probably dabble with your own 'hippie bullcrap' one day, my bet is around mid-thirties, if you ever get a life distracted-enough to benefit from it.
I am in my mid-30s, and no I wont! I hate stinking hippies.
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Marina makes me think of last of the summer wine.
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A load of hippie bullcrap
Deep and 'mindfull[ness]'
Yeah what Mina describes is very mindfulness-like, in-line with current trends.
Three-nine you'll probably dabble with your own 'hippie bullcrap' one day, my bet is around mid-thirties, if you ever get a life distracted-enough to benefit from it.
I am in my mid-30s, and no I wont! I hate stinking hippies.
It's hardly surprising that Pete thought you were younger ;D
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You're missing out 3-9, yoga is brilliant. I am however amused by your violent reaction. Can you show me on the dolly where the man in the kaftan touched you? :P
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You're missing out 3-9, yoga is brilliant. I am however amused by your violent reaction. Can you show me on the dolly where the man in the kaftan touched you? :P
if only :shag:
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Much as I enjoy the physical aspect of yoga, I can't be hooped with all the spiritual blah blah associated with it. And the white cotton everyone is dressed in for the photo.
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Are you really in your mid-thirties 3-9? Genuinely amazed. Good effort keeping hold of the early-twenties persona! I must be an 'old' late-thirtysomething.
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Well maybe not really mid, i'm 32.
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I thought it was a flippin awesome blog post. Well inspiring.
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Much as I enjoy the physical aspect of yoga, I can't be hooped with all the spiritual blah blah associated with it.
I've been to at least four different yoga classes over the years and only one teacher has managed to pitch the spiritual side at the right level for most of the class to engage with. After a while I found it the most interesting bit. Having said that I won't be going to Goa any time soon.
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A load of hippie bullcrap
I hate stinking hippies.
In case anyone was wondering this is a picture of Three Nine...
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/d/d6/902cartmaninjail.png) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Die_Hippie,_Die)
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Actually that's a picture of 3-9's messiah
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I'm mid forties.
And I figure, sitting still and thinking about things (even with limbs tied in knots), is a restful and calming activity; which allows you to put your world into perspective.
Stretching is good for mobility.
The rest is BS.
Nice BS, like Unicorns; but BS.
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Much as I enjoy the physical aspect of yoga, I can't be hooped with all the spiritual blah blah associated with it.
I've been to at least four different yoga classes over the years and only one teacher has managed to pitch the spiritual side at the right level for most of the class to engage with. After a while I found it the most interesting bit. Having said that I won't be going to Goa any time soon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hhzAgAzSr4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hhzAgAzSr4)
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I tried yoga many years ago, but found the stillness quite unbearable and anxiogenic.
So I took up thai-chi and it went better.
But the thing that I find most calm inducing, is lifting heavy weights.
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Nice BS, like Unicorns; but BS.
Where did Unicorns acquire this 'nice' tag from?
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b243/aricgrez/unicorn.gif)
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Much as I enjoy the physical aspect of yoga, I can't be hooped with all the spiritual blah blah associated with it.
I've been to at least four different yoga classes over the years and only one teacher has managed to pitch the spiritual side at the right level for most of the class to engage with. After a while I found it the most interesting bit. Having said that I won't be going to Goa any time soon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hhzAgAzSr4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hhzAgAzSr4)
Beaten to it.
Current teacher does almost no spiritual stuff, previous one did a little talk at beginning of class that no-one was really bothered about. One before had us reciting chants and shit, he was a dick.
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Can you show me on the dolly where the man in the kaftan touched you? :P
(https://ardentwolffitness.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/bad-yoga-teacher.jpg?w=374&h=450)
Three Nine on the right
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Much as I enjoy the physical aspect of yoga, I can't be hooped with all the spiritual blah blah associated with it.
I've been to at least four different yoga classes over the years and only one teacher has managed to pitch the spiritual side at the right level for most of the class to engage with. After a while I found it the most interesting bit. Having said that I won't be going to Goa any time soon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hhzAgAzSr4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hhzAgAzSr4)
Beaten to it.
Current teacher does almost no spiritual stuff, previous one did a little talk at beginning of class that no-one was really bothered about. One before had us reciting chants and shit, he was a dick.
That's the same experience Ive had.
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Me too, apart from Zaff. He just made us do oms at the end as a breathing exercise. After a while you understood it was a form of meditation too. Tantric mantra talking still don't move me though.
Nibs, you clearly didn't go to an ashtanga class. Proper workout.
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And I stopped going to zaffs because of the om nonsense
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Well, as the saying goes: you can't please all the people all the time, especially not the ones with tiny heads.
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It's all that Tantric sex, it fucks your back.
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It's all that Tantric sex, it fucks your back.
Wish that could be my excuse...
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Does your wife ever read this.
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Does your wife ever read this.
This is Toms wife...
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Have seen the yyfy thread I wondered if it was Andy. ;D
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Don't knock it til you've tried it Three Nine. A tantric wank would blow your little mind.
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:D
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It's all that Tantric sex, it fucks your back.
I think I've misunderstood what tantric sex involves all these years!
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(https://ardentwolffitness.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/bad-yoga-teacher.jpg?w=374&h=450)
WTF is going on here!!! I feel violated, although probably not as much as the women in question!!
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WTF is going on here!!! I feel violated, although probably not as much as the women in question!!
San Franisco Hippies (shortened) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7FAI_-woNh4#)
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There's some weird shit out there....(especially in the US)
"Orgasmic Meditation (OM) is a wellness practice (like yoga and pilates) that is designed for singles and couples to experience more connection, vitality, pleasure, and meaning in every aspect of their lives."
http://onetaste.us/ (http://onetaste.us/)
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The video on that site is properly hilarious! Might give it a go...
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they do a "The Orgasm Coaching & Leadership Program" might have to put that on my linked in profile. Amazingly it's not just in boulder or some hippy place, I could go to Orgasmic Business Breakfast when I'm in London with work!!! http://www.meetup.com/TurnON-London/events/219978258/ (http://www.meetup.com/TurnON-London/events/219978258/)
:wank:
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WTF is going on here!!! I feel violated, although probably not as much as the women in question!!
No idea, just remember seeing the pic before, and discussion made me think of it. Several shades of wrong.
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Quality thread hijack: skim reading,
Mina qualifies as a yoga teacher leads to longer orgasms.
We're all looking forward to the report Dave.
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Enjoyed this blog post. Reminded me to reconnect w yoga practise.
At a punter level I've experienced something vaguely similar: my most enjoyable redpoint was an early practise burn where I had no thoughts of getting the send. I just wanted to enjoy the moves while warming up; but the fact that I was relaxed and "in the moment" saw me to the last move - at which point the mental quiet went out the window as I realised I was about to tick, and I floundered up and made the clip by the skin of.
If you ditch a yoga class because the teacher asks you to chant "om" three times, something that takes substantially less than a minute, you might reflect on what this means about yourself and your attitudes. Though if they adjust you like the photo above, forget ditching the class, go straight for the lawsuit!
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That last paragraph is the most condescending post I've ever read. After time reflecting I figured it says that I don't like being sold bullshit. I went to yoga to open my hips out, something which it never did, not for the spiritual zen chi iron lion Zion crock of shit. If I wanted to find my headspace it's strangely in my head not with a bunch of troubled chanting fuckwits going through the motions.
Peace
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I think iron lion Zion is more in alignment with the Rastafari way of thinking. Fire Burn!
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That last paragraph is the most condescending post I've ever read.
You'll understand one day dense... when you're older.
P.L.U.R.
;D
*I found the om thing a bit daft, changed teachers, the next ran round ringing a bell when you're supposed to be relaxing (WTF) and the old lady I go to now is brilliant. Focuses on body awareness, stretching and breathing - which is what I wanted.
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"that last paragraph is the most condescending post I've ever read."
I apologise. My language came out all wrong.
That post was written in the spirit of addressing myself. A few years ago I ditched a decent yoga studio because they got us to spend 10 minutes doing breathing exercises at the start. I've since enjoyed those same exercises, in different circumstances. And I think I missed out on a good teacher as a result.
I agree there's a lot of hippy bollocks tied up around yoga. Some of it is also tradition (albeit of debatable age, reading some critical sources). I personally am happy to indulge the latter for a few moments out of my hour's class. That you are not is obvious :-) and of course entirely your own prerogative.
As you say, peace.
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and fucking.
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if all of your head space is in your own head dense....................................... you have fuck all head space
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Exactly, no room to think of nothing
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Learning to Enjoy the Fight (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/learning-to-enjoy-the-fight)
8 June 2015, 3:19 pm
This year has gone so fast, I don’t really know where to start. I started the year by going to India for a month – see previous blog (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/the-science-of-achievement-vs-the-art-of-fulfillment) – to learn to teach yoga, give myself a break from climbing and to generally reset a bit.
When I came back in February, I had always planned to hit the ground running, so to speak. I knew what my goals were and I had bags of renewed psyche and motivation. After doing Mecca Extension (8c) last autumn, I knew I was keen for more sport climbing and I knew I wanted to start on another project. I had already chosen Bat Route months before when I saw Adam Jeeworth sending the route the previous summer. There is something really special and inspiring about watching someone’s work manifest in that way. The climbing looked amazing to watch and it had a glowing reputation as a brilliant route…the seed was sewn immediately.
First though, there was some unfinished business….Austrian Oak (8b). I had tried the route in the summer and feeling full of positive vibes, I was hoping I could finish it off quickly and move on to the joys and excitement of working on Bat Route….ha! Get down, ego!! That was not to be. Austrian Oak was not going down lightly. It was hard mentally because, although I loved trying Austrian and it is truly great climbing, my heart had shifted to a new goal and I was very distracted. It became somewhat of an epic, a few steps forward, and a few steps back…but eventually, after more sessions that I can remember, I managed to clip the chains. In some ways I had to refocus and let go of Bat Route to get the Oak done; I had to make sure I was giving the route the respect it deserved. Grades are so random and subjective; for me, Austrian Oak was bloody hard and tested me physically and mentally. I had to accept that and only then, when my ego fell away, was I able to finish the route.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/10929206_697844653659373_4134075333018515621_n.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/learning-to-enjoy-the-fight/10929206_697844653659373_4134075333018515621_n)
Austrian Oak (8b), Photo Penny Orr
Moving on to Bat Route felt great, after a stressful redpoint battle, it felt so fun just working out moves and feeling it all gradually coming together. That’s definitely my favourite bit, the working out stage. No pressure, no expectations, just problem solving and moving about on rock.
Bat Route starts up a route called Seventh Aardvark which is quite technical and comes in at 7b, then the tempo changes and you have a hard powerful boulder problem on undercuts through a roof (grade is often debated but it’s at least Font 7B+ (boulder grade), if not a bit harder, in my opinion) before a really good knee bar rest. Then the magnificent headwall gives you a mixture of bouldery moves and crimps to get stuck into and it’s a bit of a race against the pump as soon as you leave a rest. I worked the boulder in the roof to begin with as I knew this had the hardest single moves and would be the key to the route for me. Then I began doing links, in route climber style! I even did the boulder problem to the chains (so everything without Seventh Aardvark) before beginning to red point.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20150427_uk_66-1024x684.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/learning-to-enjoy-the-fight/gordale-uk-2)Working Bat Route (8c), Photo Jordan Manley
Once on red point, the struggle for me was doing the boulder in the roof from the ground. I made minuscule progress each session, one hand movement or sometimes only a foot movement further! To keep my sanity, I kept telling myself I wasn’t on redpoint, just trying the link from the ground to after the crux….;)
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20150427_uk_63-1024x684.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/learning-to-enjoy-the-fight/gordale-uk)Recovering in the knee bar after the crux, photo Jordan Manley.
I eventually got through the crux from the ground and then things speeded up massively. The day I did it, I really wasn’t expecting it… I was pretty tired and it was my 4th go of the day, which isn’t usually my strong point. It was only on the last part of the headwall that it dawned on me that I might do it. After some power grunts and mousy squeaks, the main hard climbing was over but there is still a section above the last bolt – it isn’t hard compared to the rest of the route but it’s not 1a either. When I got to that section I looked up and there was a mini waterfall of run off coming down on me; my hands, my face, everything was getting wet! Looking up, the very first part of the last section was dry but there were a lot of wet holds higher up (not just the juggy ledge but some smaller holds before it were soaked too)! I genuinely thought I wasn’t going to be able to finish it, that I had essentially done it, but was probably going to leave empty handed.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/20150427_uk_67-1024x684.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/learning-to-enjoy-the-fight/gordale-uk-3)The very last section of Bat Route – this was all soaking wet the day I did it! – Photo Jordan Manley.
Pure psyche for the send got me up the wet rock and I was in happy disbelief at the chains. I had thought I was far to tired to do the route that go and maybe that helped a bit; expectations and nerves fell away and I was able to just enjoy the fight.
That was my biggest learning point actually – learning to enjoy the fight. The first time I got through the roof crux to the knee bar, I didn’t want to leave the rest! I was nervous about having got that far and then messing up the next bit, my expectations and nerves were making me not want to keep climbing. I shouted down to my friend who was belaying me to say I was nervous and he just yelled: “enjoy the fight!”. It really resonated with me that day and has stuck with me since. It is a basic way of looking at things and I often hear people say “enjoy the process” but for some reason that phrase always felt more annoying than anything….it’s hard to enjoy the process sometimes, but I do enjoy a good fight (in climbing…)! It made me realise that I wouldn’t want it to be easy or feel like a forgone conclusion; the enjoyment comes from engaging in a battle with yourself and the rock.
And my god it was a good fight! But I won eventually (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Last but not least, one of the best things about this year’s Malham season has been the people…the shared psyche, the support and the friendship. Thanks everyone, you know who you are!
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Waterval Boven and Wow Prow (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/waterval-boven-and-wow-prow)
22 October 2015, 4:02 pm
Sitting in Johannesburg airport with Katy as I begin to write this, I’m wondering how I can best sum up the trip we have just been on. For the last month we have been sport climbing in South Africa, near Johannesburg. To give an overview, we spent two weeks in Waterval Boven, the third week in Wow Prow down in The Free State, and then the final week back where we started in Waterval Boven. It’s hard to believe this trip was born in our minds about a year ago. At that point Katy still had a desk job and I was just shifting my sights from bouldering to sport climbing. We saw online videos of Paige Claassen and Sasha Diguilian putting up FAs in Wow Prow (Digital Warfare) and Waterval Boven (Rolihlahla) respectively and we were stunned by the look of the rock quality in both areas. A plan was hatched.
Initially I was keen to try Rolihlahla in Boven but on arrival it was clear that there was so much else to try and, although I tried some of it briefly, my attention was taken elsewhere. I could go into specific routes we tried etc but I think that makes for a boring read so I’ll talk more about a theme that stood out for me and let some pictures show the climbing. But if the pictures are in anyway ambiguous….the climbing is AMAZING. If you get the chance, GO. Both Waterval Boven and Wow Prow are incredible in different ways, I highly recommend making the trip.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/unnamed-1024x683.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/unnamed)
Katy climbing Rustic Brownie by the waterfall, Photo Alex Haslehurst
Before I begin rattling on, a small disclaimer….while on this trip I was reading a book about the history of philosophy…so I may be guilty of ruminating on things a bit too much and over analysing experiences.
The theme that stood out needs a bit of background – although we had planned this trip far in advance, Katy and I didn’t feel in our best shape whilst here – Katy due to a long term back injury that is making her call deeply on her patience, and for me…. well I’m not so sure, maybe being a bit burned out just before coming on this trip. I have a tendency to overdo things (I can hear the chuckles of those who know me), and I trained perhaps a little too much in the weeks leading up to the trip, only resting before we left because I had all my wisdom teeth taken out (not very restful I now know…). So, with that in mind, we both had to slightly alter our expectations, Katy in particular (turns out spines are not very forgiving if you don’t listen).
Right so my theme is the presence of two very different kinds of fun on a climbing trip. Bear with me. In no particular order:
Type 1: Goal achievement, in this context redpointing success. Adrenalin filled, euphoric feeling, release of endorphins, fulfilment of a goal. A sudden sharp emotional spike that lasts…well it depends, but 20 mins – a few days usually.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/11145890_770730016370836_7792140091729202651_n.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/photos/11145890_770730016370836_7792140091729202651_n)High adrenalin, trying hard on Godzilla (8b) – type 1 fun when I clipped the chains! Photo Nick Brown.
Type 2: Silliness. No achievement/climbing association, release of expectations and attachment to success, very simple silliness and present moment fun based on interaction with immediate surroundings and people. Hilarious, childish and not self conscious.
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Swinging around at Wow Prow, Photo Alex Haslehurst.
So, both of these types of fun are great, obviously. What became clear to me was that performance isn’t that important. It’s fun, of course, but there are other more long lasting forms of fun to be had. Don’t get me wrong, I love trying hard and setting goals and achieving them, what I’m saying is that we learnt on this trip to be flexible and accepting of what felt possible and letting go of what didn’t. Simple idea really and it may seem obvious to many, but as with a lot of ideas, it’s easy to think about and hard to actually live by. Of course type 1 and type 2 aren’t mutually exclusive, however too much focus on 1 may reduce levels of 2 but equally no goal focus will restrict type 1 as a desire to fulfil a goal must be there to cultivate motivation to try hard.
So yet again it all comes down to balance. The climbing was incredible, we had an absolute blast, both clipped some chains and both have unfinished business to return for. But my most cherished memories are the silly moments, the banter, nicknames, sandstorms, giggles and knowing that we are extremely lucky to be doing what we’re doing.
A massive thank you to Andrew Pedley for all the advice and for help with access to crags.
On to the next trip….. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
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Trying hard on Digital Warfare (8b+), one to come back for (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif) Photo Nick Brown.
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Katy trying Death Camp (8a+) at Wow Prow, Photo Alex Haslehurst
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Twinkle Toes, the brilliant slab with jugs on it! Photo Rob Greenwood.
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Monster (7c+), one of my favourite routes of the trip. Photo Nick Brown
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One more of the Waterfall! Photo Alex Haslehurst.
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Katy looking like a total hero on Death Camp (8a+) at Wow Prow, Photo Rob Greenwood
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Great photos - looks amazing. :yes:
And thanks for the introspection :)
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My old stomping ground. At lower grades obviously.
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2015 – A YEAR OF NEW THINGS (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/2015-a-year-of-new-things)
4 January 2016, 7:54 pm
When I wrote a blog in early 2015 (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/the-science-of-achievement-vs-the-art-of-fulfillment), I was recollecting how 2014 had been a year of changes and adjustments. So I suppose it’s only natural that 2015 feels like it’s been a year of new things: newfound direction and interests, new challenges and new priorities.
I don’t know if it’s just me but I feel like time has got a little out of control. The hours and days zoom past and I find that it’s all of a sudden a new month, and now, to my shock, a new year. So, before 2016 gets away from me too, here are some new things from 2015…..
NEW THING NO. 1
It was almost exactly a year ago today that I landed in India with my yoga mat, a bundle of nerves and excitement. I wanted to spend some time away from climbing and focus on learning a set of new skills. I had no idea how much that trip would shape the rest of my year, I didn’t know if I would even like teaching yoga, if I would be any good at it or if anyone would come to my classes. I was pretty terrified of people coming to my classes actually. Part of me would advertise a class and then pray that nobody would turn up.
Luckily, after the first few classes, the nerves subdued to a good level of anticipation and I settled into teaching and holding a space for people and I began to love it.
This felt like a huge new thing. I love climbing and being given the opportunity to climb professionally is a dream, but I have always felt uneasy about the privilege and the inevitable focus on myself. I wanted to find a way to give back some of my time and my energy to other people in a meaningful way, but until last year, I didn’t know how. Now I feel like this is the beginning of something that I can really put my heart into alongside climbing.
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Photo Rowanne Bennett
NEW (ish) THING NO.2
Route climbing focus! Until 2015, I have been primarily a boulderer who dabbles in route climbing. But last year, sport climbing was definitely the focus. Having done Mecca Extension (8c) in 2014, I realised that I could do the fitness thing and decided to widen my horizons when it came to climbing. I came back from India and went to Oliana ready to start my 2015 climbing with some fun Spainish routes.
Even now it makes me chuckle when I look back. I hadn’t anticipated fear being such a big barrier. When I look at the climbing media, I often think I must be the only person that gets gripped by the fear of being above my bolt. It’s totally irrational, I know I’m not going to hurt myself but there it is, this surge of gut wrenching fear. It makes me freeze; hesitate, even down climb sometimes. In Oliana, it ruined the climbing element of my trip. I couldn’t push myself physically because my head was holding me back. I felt so silly!
Luckily, back in the UK, the bolts are not very spaced out at all and it meant I could climb with less fear and get bolder gradually. If you’d asked me in Oliana, I would have said I felt the fear was an insurmountable problem. Now, I can say it is always there a little bit but I have learned to push it away gradually and control it. The key for me was to not jump in the deep end (Oliana felt like the deep end). In the Spring of 2015 I climbed Bat Route (8c) which felt like a real milestone, as my second 8c it told me the first wasn’t a fluke, I was actually a route climber!
In the autumn, Katy Whittaker and I ventured on two trips, first to Waterval Boven and Wow Prow (see blog (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/waterval-boven-and-wow-prow)) and secondly to Red River Gorge. In terms of fear, Waterval Boven was a great trip. I managed to send Godzilla (8b) relatively quickly (for me) and I found myself skipping quick draws on the crux headwall to save energy. In Oliana I would never have thought that possible! If you struggle with fear when climbing, have a listen to the audio interview on Hazel Findlay’s blog (http://hazelfindlayclimbing.com/blog/view/talking-with-mina-leslie-wujastyk-about-fear-of-falling) where she and I discuss the ins and outs of fear.
However, there was also another learning point during this time (beginning really from after I did Bat Route) – while focussing on fitness, I had lost a lot of bouldering strength. I found that I could recover well on good holds but my pure strength had decreased and with that my anaerobic capacity had also plummeted.
Hmmm….back to the drawing board.
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Climbing on Jesus Wept in Red River Gorge (Photo Marc Bourguignon)
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Another shot from Red River Gorge (Photo Eddie Fowke)
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Battling irrational fear in Oliana (photo Rob Greenwood)
NEW THING NO. 3
Strength training is hard. This is obviously not new in itself but I have discovered a new side to it. In previous years I have trained very hard but my body has felt responsive, moulding into good shape for climbing. The sessions were bloody hard but the results were clear. There was a linear demonstration of cause and effect for my motivation to cling to. This year, it has not been so clear and, as a result my motivation has been a lot more up and down.
After sending Bat Route, I had some well earned down time: reduced activity, loosening my restraints, eating more chocolate etc etc. In my mind, I thought I would easily spring back into shape in a matter of weeks. Ha! It was a massive struggle. I put on weight that I struggled to shift but tried not to put undue focus on, I felt exhausted from sessions; I worked really hard to see minimal gains. After the trips in the autumn where I was climbing most days, I came home feeling like a shadow of my former self! I was reasonably fit but weak.
So I have taken a deep breath and committed once again to training, this time more structured and with the help of David Mason and Alex Barrows. I am trying to be more mindful of the process so that my motivation doesn’t require outcomes too soon, I’m trying to be compassionate with myself so that I don’t fear having time off again. And, very importantly, I am trying not to compare “now” to “before”. For whatever reason, maybe motivation, maybe age, maybe a more diverse focus, I am finding it harder than I used to. But that is just how it is. It will be more of an achievement now than it ever was before, because now it is more of a fight.
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Working on my game face and chisel grip in the cellar, photo David Mason
NEW THING NO. 4
I learnt to ski!! I’ve never skied before, I tried boarding once and spent 3 days just landing on my bottom! Skiing came a lot easier and I spent a lovely Christmas skiing all day everyday with my family :).
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So, lots of new things and lots learnt. Looking forward to more new things in 2016! I’m starting this year by heading back to India…..
Happy New Year everyone, have a good one.
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Smart lass :yes:
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Trying to see things as they really are….A blog about Vipassana and climbing. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/trying-to-see-things-as-they-really-are-a-blog-about-vipassana-and-climbing)
6 April 2016, 3:33 pm
The last blog I wrote looked back at new things I had experienced or discovered in 2015 and now starting this one it feels as though I could just continue in the same vein.
So far, 2016 has also been a year of new experiences and new perspectives. I started the year by going to India. Originally the plan had been to spend a month climbing in Badami or Hampi with Katy and then to head to Trimurti Yoga School to do an internship to develop my yoga teaching further. Unfortunately, after our trip to Red River Gorge, Katy’s back was in no shape to embark on another trip, so the climbing section got cancelled. I was left with a gap in my travels and it seemed like the perfect opportunity to do something that had been on my mind for a while: learn the Vipassana meditation technique.
Vipassana is a type of insight meditation that draws from Buddhism, although it is expressly non-secular making it an accessible modality for anyone and everyone. It literally means “to see things as they really are”. I had come across Vipassana in many avenues; my uncle practises regularly, my aunt and my mum had studied under S.N. Goenka in India in the 70s it turned out, some of my cousins had done the initial ten day course and over the years I kept meeting friends who had learnt the technique. Everyone told me it was valuable; some that it was life changing and all of them said it was hard work!
It seemed a perfect fit, it’s possible to learn the technique anywhere in the world but as I was already going to India it made sense to do it there. So I signed up to a Dhamma centre in Chengannur, Kerala and that was where my trip started.
I know this is predominantly a climbing blog and I seem to be going off on a tangent here but I promise it’ll connect up…..I have realised that there is a lot to learn from other practices that informs my climbing
So Vipassana. I thought I was mentally prepared, I knew it was going to be hard; I hoped it was going to be fulfilling and eye opening. It was all of those things but I underestimated the “hard” bit. I mean, I REALLY thought it was going to be VERY hard but it was probably one of the most difficult things I have consciously, decided to put myself through. To give you an idea of the course I’ll set the scene and then go into some of the concepts briefly.
It’s ten days. It’s totally silent (no talking, gestures, eye contact, reading, writing, music…NOTHING). The day begins at 4.00am and ends at 9.30pm. In that time there are 10.5 hours (yes, HOURS) of seated meditation. There is also a 1.5 hour discourse every evening. Food at 6.30am and 11am and a snack (!) at 5pm.
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The meditation hall
I won’t go into too much detail on the teaching (you really need the ten day course J) but the basic practice involves observation: firstly of breath and then of sensations in the body. The course begins with a focus on the sensation of the breath around the nostrils, which helps to develop concentration and the ability to feel subtler and subtler sensations. This is then expanded (after three days) to full body scans; observing sensations, be they heat, cold, pain, tingling, itching etc.
Now here is the hard bit: maintaining equanimity. This means observing everything from a position of non-judgement, not labelling anything as “good” or “bad”, not craving the nice sensations or developing aversion to the not so nice ones. Just watching them without reaction. This is really hard especially when experiencing pain (which as you can imagine is very present when sitting on the floor for ten plus hours a day). It’s hard not to hate the pain.
So developing equanimity is a big part of Vipassana but it makes more sense in the context of impermanence. The reality of: everything that arises will at some point pass. Bad times will pass, good times will pass, pain will pass, emotions will pass, life will pass; it’s all a natural process. I found that (and this goes for a lot of what I learnt on this course) I understood and accepted this on an intellectual level, but to understand and learn it experientially through body sensations was a totally different kettle of fish.
The last main concept I will mention is the illusion of “I”, the dissolution of the ego. Of course this doesn’t happen in ten days but it is an interesting idea that shifted my perspective to a more detached place. Everything, to a certain extent, loses its importance. It’s quite liberating to realise how insignificant we are in some ways. I must stress that a level of detachment is different from not caring. It is a position where all outcomes are embraced, where there is little craving and aversion, where one is able to step back from being a servant to the ego and can make more balanced decisions for the good of us and those around us.
Essentially, I began to more deeply understand one of the more famous things said by the Buddha: that “expectations are the root of all suffering”. I’m certainly not enlightened or liberated yet but I feel like I “get it” a bit more. As humans we expect so much. From ourselves, from people around us, from the world in general. There is a lot of entitlement around (myself totally included in this). We constantly look to external things to make us happy and fulfilled, when in fact; we are the ones in control of our happiness. We can decide how we react, what we expect and how happy we are.
This was very liberating for me but also very hard to swallow, as there is nobody else to blame for anything anymore.
So…..it took me a while to get to climbing but I imagine you can already see how it fits in: expectations of performance, expectations of ability, ego, confidence, shame, entitlement, fear, anxiety etc.
I could write a book on it…hmm maybe there’s a future in that….
So, after the Vipassana I went and did a lot of yoga and teaching yoga and also lots of fingerboarding, rings, pull ups etc. I was in one place for a month and it was great to focus on very basic training and to use that time to land in some of the things I had learnt. I didn’t come out of the course totally transformed but I came out of it with a taste of something really special and an extremely valuable technique that I can use in a longer term way to be more happy.
The training I did for those five weeks after the course was great too (even though it was about 35 degrees!!), no climbing at all, just rings and fingerboarding. I realised how weak I was when you take away my heel hooks and how much I could gain from some basic strength training.(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/12968679_646653282159287_1756117149_n.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/trying-to-see-things-as-they-really-are-a-blog-about-vipassana-and-climbing/12968679_646653282159287_1756117149_n)
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Now I’m back in the UK and I’m more psyched than ever for climbing. Malham season is upon us and I find myself trying a really hard route. Putting aside the ego played a big role for me in even beginning this process, having the confidence to even consider that I might be good enough, opening myself up to the possibility that I may try and not be good enough. Being okay with publicly not being good enough.
I find putting expectations to one side is a daily hurdle but I think it’s a worthwhile exercise. Imagine if all the energy we put into worry, expectations, fear and doubt could be channelled into just moving on rock? That’s what I’m attempting to do now: I’m trying Rainshadow with as little expectation as possible for me at this time. I genuinely don’t know if this route is realistic for me, if it is it will most likely take some years of work. For now, while I am enjoying it I will keep trying it. Physical challenges aside, it is a really interesting process for practising detachment, managing the ego and trying to see things as they really are.
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Evening view from the Malham catwalk
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Apparently yoga is no good for climbing
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Very interesting post (Mina's, I mean..... ::) ). It's nice to see such a high profile and high performing climber writing about such things. I am sure yoga could help a lot with my climbing.
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the basic practice involves observation: firstly of breath and then of sensations in the body. The course begins with a focus on the sensation of the breath around the nostrils, which helps to develop concentration and the ability to feel subtler and subtler sensations. This is then expanded (after three days) to full body scans; observing sensations, be they heat, cold, pain, tingling, itching etc.
Imagine teaching this to a room of hypochondriacs.
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Australia 2016 (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/australia-2016)
15 September 2016, 7:08 pm
Going to Australia was always going to be more than just a climbing trip. I mean, they have kangaroos for goodness sake. To me, that’s the stuff of cartoons: childhood, Disney-esque images coming to life. It was a shock to find out that, as a species, the kangaroos seem pretty suicidal. Driving in the Grampians can be pretty terrifying due to their inability to move backwards (rendering retreat pretty impossible) and seemingly distinct lack of desire to live. But still, they have built in pouches to carry their babies and, apparently, they can actually halt a pregnancy if conditions to give birth aren’t right. That’s ridiculous, enough said.
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So, now that the excitement about kangaroos is done, let’s chat climbing. We settled in Wartook for our stay, a small cabin at the “Happy Wanderer” and we were very happy there indeed. Nestled in the North Grampians, the infamous Taipan wall was in our stomping ground, as well as plenty of bouldering. The South Grampians and Halls Gap bouldering wasn’t too far and Arapiles was a short day trip away (with the added luxury of some kind of Horsham-based café hit for cake). So we were set. David was psyched for boulders of his dreams that have been on a mental (and probably written down, perhaps even on special paper) life tick list for eternity and I was frothing at the thought of trying historic, infamous routes like Punks in the Gym at Arapiles and Serpentine on Taipan Wall. I was psyched for bouldering too but, having spent the previous months training a lot of fitness, it would be an understatement to say I wasn’t sure how strong I would be in the pebble-hugging department. It felt like a bit of an unknown but I knew, thanks to an overwhelmingly boring amount of aerobic capacity training (thanks Barrows – I am grateful now, I promise), that I was relatively fit.
So, early on in the trip I went to have a play on Punks in the Gym. At that point I was mid way through Andy Pollitt’s book, not quite at the Punks bit yet, fighting the urge to skip forwards and hear his take on the route and all the shenanigans that went with it…and “that hold”. Punks in the Gym, although bolted by Martin Scheel is a Wolfgang Gullich route. His first ascent put up what was then (in 1985) perhaps the hardest route in the world at grade 32/8b+. The “hold” in question has a blurry tale to it that varies depending on what you read and who you ask but essentially there was some breakage followed by re-building, resulting in a rather odd “birdbath” hold in the crux sequence that is quite out of character with the rest of the rock on the route. Some feel it ruins the climb, for me it told a story of human history on the rock. Yes, it is a bit ugly, but the rest of the route makes up for it with immaculate rock and funky, interesting movement.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/image12.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/australia-2016/image12)Punks in the Gym (32/8b+). Photo: Ross Taylor So, drawn in from the first session, this was to be my project for the trip. We actually struck a really nice balance, going to Arapiles twice a week for me to try Punks and bouldering the rest of the time. This system meant that David was my belay bunny on his rest days and it also meant that I bouldered quite a lot too, in fact surprising myself by getting up some relatively hard stuff. The weeks started to fly by and I got closer and closer, my seventh session spent falling repeatedly trying to get my foot in the birdbath hold (this was definitely the redpoint crux for me). I was beginning to worry that my focus on this route was going to cost me the chance of climbing on other things, going all the way to Australia and just projecting one thing. I’m sure many people have and will do that but I didn’t want to. I guess I’m greedy, I wanted Punks but I also wanted time to climb on other stuff too. Luckily, despite being a bundle of nerves (the kind you get when you know you can do something) on my eighth session, I tied in and climbed the route. Like often happens, it felt fine from what I can remember, which isn’t much. Those flow moments are what makes climbing so special. Though a seemingly nerve-wracked nutcase on the ground, as soon as I stepped on everything melted away and there was just movement, breath and rock. So psyched, definitely a lifetime tick that one.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/image11.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/australia-2016/image11)Punks in the Gym (32/8b+). Photo: Ross Taylor It seems Australia is full of lifetime must-dos (or at least must-trys!) and very soon my route climbing based attention had shifted to the mighty Serpentine on Taipan Wall. Although Serpentine comes in at 29/8a, a good notch below Punks, the challenge was very evident in the nature of the climbing, the wall itself and everything that went with it. To the seasoned trad climbers among you it may seem like nothing extra but, for me, the exposure, the run outs, hanging belay and the mixed nature of the protection all added up to quite a mental challenge. I’ve never been fearless even on bolts, the fact that this route was a mixture of bolts and trad gear, along with some pretty hefty spaces between, gave me jelly legs.
To my absolute delight, when we rocked up to try the route, it was already fully equipped. Wonderful. My nightmares of trying to fiddle in gear on unknown territory with serious space below my feet were quashed and I breathed a sigh of honest relief. My first session was brilliant; I loved it. I felt relatively fearless actually and did the route in sections to the top, basking in the sun on my way. Deciding to come back another day to finish it, I left on a total high.
Funny how things shift! I’m gradually learning about fear and one of the things I have gathered over time (and was sternly reminded of here) is that when my body feels good and strong and fit I can surprise myself and be pretty bold. On the flip side, if I am tired, run down or just having a not so good day and don’t move well or trust my muscles to fire when instructed, I turn into to a scared little mouse. Seems obvious right?! Well, I felt like I was learning it for the first time on my second time up Serpentine. I hesitated, said, “take” all over the place and generally went up the route just to have a good old wobble. So much for going back to finish it off! I left it for the day, unsure which experience had been a true reflection of what was possible, the first day fearless Mina or the second day puddle-like version.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/image9-e1473944064820-768x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/australia-2016/image9)Selfie at Serpentine belay ledge. After that I stalled going back to the route, I put it off a bit until I woke up feeling fresh and psyched to take it on. We went back and first go I managed to get through to the headwall only to mess up a sequence and pump out. I was ecstatic, my fearless self was back and even if I didn’t do it that day, I knew I had it in me. After a decent rest, at the end of the day I redpointed the route. It was perfect in some ways, the golden evening light on the headwall as I climbed and the sun began to set. I’d like to day I climbed it gracefully and flawlessly, and perhaps some sections I did, but the very last section gave me some jip. I messed up the foot moves and, with the top of the wall a single hand move away, I was forced to reverse some moves! I thought I’d blown it, but thanks to Barrows and his boring aerocap, I recovered and made it to the top. A spicy finish to a fantastic route, I sat on top and looked at the view. An amazing moment. Then I heard a tiny voice from below: “Well done!…..ummmmm my legs are numb, can you come down??”. Massive thanks to David for belaying me, a hanging belay is not a boulderer’s first choice for a rest day I’m sure! Pizza and beer were quick to fix that, I know how to handle these things.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/image6-e1473944563543-768x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/australia-2016/image6)A keen belayer, honest! So with my main goals achieved, I spent the remainder of the trip pretty chilled, doing other routes like the classic Eye of the Tiger (8a) and surprising myself with a flash of Monkey Puzzle (7c+) – I’m generally not great at flashing/onsighting so this was very nice.
I really got the bug for bouldering back this trip too, I’m keen to work on getting more basic strength to progress again but was happy to bag a few 10s, 11s and a couple of 12s, including a last day send of Nalle’s Silver Platter – climbed in-between rain showers after sitting on a rope shielding the top holds from the rain while Dave told me I had lost my mind…definitely pays off to be keen!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/image1-819x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/australia-2016/image1-2)Silver Platter (V12), Photo David Mason So, all-in-all, an amazing trip! David also got almost all of his dream tick list completed and we are about to head to New Zealand for two weeks of bouldering at Castle Hill/Flock Hill areas…can’t wait! Massive high five to all the brilliant people we met and hung out with, climbed with and ate good food with – you know who you are!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/image5-821x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/australia-2016/image5)Gripmaster (V10), Photo David Mason. This one was really hard for me!! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/image7-1024x654.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/australia-2016/image7)So You Think You Can Dance (V11), Photo David Mason (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/image4-e1473945198422-768x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/australia-2016/image4)David on highball Obelisk (V7) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/IMG_3867_sRGB-1024x576.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/australia-2016/img_3867_srgb)David crushing Ammagamma (v13). One of the biggies on the dream tick list. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/image8-768x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/australia-2016/image8)Leviathan (V11), Photo David Mason
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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New Zealand, the land of camper vans and seriously big hills. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/new-zealand-the-land-of-camper-vans-and-seriously-big-hills)
14 October 2016, 6:15 pm
It seems strange to be back in Sheffield already. I’m sure many experience this (and I’m sure I have when returning from previous trips in the past): the sense of an odd time warp having taken place. We looked forward to this trip for so long, it’s the furthest either of us have travelled for climbing (or anything for that matter) and in our minds it was this huge event on the horizon. We trained hard for it, planned it meticulously (I’ll be honest the planning was mostly Dave) and looked forward to it immensely. It didn’t feel like it would ever be time to actually GO on the trip…..let alone come home from it!
Having said that, I also love coming home. We had an amazing time but I think it is a sign of how much we like where we live and our friends here that, when the time comes, travelling home is almost as exciting as going away. Plus, nothing beats sleeping in your own bed!
Our last two weeks of climbing were spent in New Zealand; both the landscapes and the climbing were extremely different to that in Australia and it was perfect for the end of the trip to have new sights and new challenges. The views were totally stunning; the only way I can think to describe it is the Lake District on steroids. Just like in Australia, the local climbing community met us in New Zealand with incredible hospitality. This special trait of our sport never ceases to amaze me. Castle Hill has a guidebook but Flock Hill, where we were hoping to climb the most, hasn’t and it was only thanks to the generosity of the local climbers that we got many an in-depth tour!
We were also living out of a camper van at this point (it seemed everyone was, there are sooooo many campers on the road in NZ!) and so a particular thanks to local climber Joe who was a legend, keeping our hygiene to an acceptable level by letting us use his shower! Moving into the camper van initially felt a bit of a challenge but we soon settled back into the swing of van life and both realised how much we had missed the simplicity, the basic way of living. There was a beautiful detachment to those two weeks. No wifi and intermittent signal created a peaceful, slow and more present reality. We ended up as a little band of climbers: me and David, Adam Watson and Abbie, and Cliff. All in vans, with Pearson Lake as our home away from home, we found a rhythm to life in the hills.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/0-1024x768.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/new-zealand-the-land-of-camper-vans-and-seriously-big-hills/our-cosy-cam)
We spent most of our time climbing at Flock Hill and it was really like no other place. Like Joe one day said: “It’s a little piece of heaven”. It really is that. The crag is relatively high effort to climb at lots of days in a row due to the steep 45min walk in but the sense of exposure, isolation and views are fully worth it. The climbing itself is demanding in a very unique way – lots of slopers, mantles, footwork, compression, highballs and body awareness. I thoroughly enjoyed the climbing; it was nice to do some high stuff again. Having said that, I did take a pretty bad fall on our first day at Flock Hill….. I unexpectedly spun off Sunset Arete (a beautiful V8), missed the pads and initially felt terrified that I had broken my leg! Luckily my ankle rolled and took the hit (along with some mega whiplash) and I was grateful to hobble around for a day or two before being able to climb again. Those of you that know me won’t be surprised to hear that I went back and finished the boulder (after doing the scary top on a top rope to avoid further danger). Always good to get back on the metaphorical horse.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/image6-1024x576.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/new-zealand-the-land-of-camper-vans-and-seriously-big-hills/image6-2)
So after a shaky start to our Flock Hill adventure, it was all fun and frolics from there on in. A ridiculous amount of sending from Adam and David was great to bear witness to! I loved the climbing but also found it somewhat challenging in the reach department. I hate calling reach but I think this is an area where it does make quite a difference. Most things are totally doable if you have a shorter reach (although there were some where I actually couldn’t physically span) but the style definitely made it harder. I realised how often I use intermediates or unusual sequences to climb harder boulders (and I’m not even that small); here the smooth limestone offers only the main event holds. At this point in the trip though I was totally happy to lower my grade and enjoy the classics; it was all about day sends and scenic picnics!
I’ll let you see the rest in pictures….
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/image9-e1476464399304-768x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/new-zealand-the-land-of-camper-vans-and-seriously-big-hills/image9-2)Mullet Arete (V6), Photo David Mason (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/image2-e1476464483932-768x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/new-zealand-the-land-of-camper-vans-and-seriously-big-hills/image2)David on Thin White Line (V7), Wuthering Heights (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/image7-819x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/new-zealand-the-land-of-camper-vans-and-seriously-big-hills/image7-2)Disconnect Extra (V7), Photo David Mason (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/image4-e1476464618674-768x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/new-zealand-the-land-of-camper-vans-and-seriously-big-hills/image4-2)David on Do Wrong by None (V6) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/image5-768x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/new-zealand-the-land-of-camper-vans-and-seriously-big-hills/image5-2)100 Times Slab (V3), Photo David Mason (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/image3-683x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/new-zealand-the-land-of-camper-vans-and-seriously-big-hills/image3)Another of Mullet Arete (V6), Photo Derek Thatcher (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/image8-1024x768.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/new-zealand-the-land-of-camper-vans-and-seriously-big-hills/image8-2)Castle Hill with some threatening weather above! (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/image1-819x1024.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/new-zealand-the-land-of-camper-vans-and-seriously-big-hills/image1-3)Obelisk (V9), photo David Mason
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Mina Meets Godzilla – Waterval Boven Part 1 (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/mina-meets-godzilla-waterval-boven-part-1)
1 November 2015, 5:08 pm
Mina meets Godzilla (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/mina-meets-godzilla/)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Mina Meets Godzilla – Video from Waterval Boven Part 1 (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/mina-meets-godzilla-waterval-boven-part-1)
1 November 2015, 5:08 pm
Mina meets Godzilla (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/mina-meets-godzilla/)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Katy and the Snapdragon – Video from Waterval Boven Part 2 (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/katy-and-the-snapdragon-waterval-boven-part-2)
1 November 2015, 7:00 pm
Katy and the Snapdragon (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/katy-and-the-snapdragon/)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Video from the Grampians (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/video-from-the-grampians)
4 December 2016, 2:19 pm
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk in the Grampians (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/mina-leslie-wujastyk-in-the-grampians/)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Video from The Valley of the Giants, Grampians, Australia (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/video-from-the-valley-of-the-giants-grampians-australia)
1 February 2017, 4:56 pm
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk in the Valley of the Giants (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/mina-leslie-wujastyk-in-the-valley-of-the-giants/)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Video from Flock Hill, New Zealand. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/video-from-flock-hill-new-zealand)
1 February 2017, 5:00 pm
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk at Flock Hill, New Zealand (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/mina-leslie-wujastyk-at-flock-hill-new-zealand/)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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So much training…. (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/so-much-training)
2 February 2017, 12:32 pm
Since we arrived back in the UK after our trip to Australia (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=1635&action=edit) and New Zealand (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=1660&action=edit), I have seen an awful lot of the inside of climbing walls. I feel a bit like I’m in Groundhog Day, looking up at the fingerboard and thinking – wasn’t I just here doing this? It’s all been thoroughly exhausting and a bit surreal. I’ve been at the mercy of Alex Barrows and David Mason; seems I’m quite the masochist. I’m approaching completion of four months of solid training with a few flurries on rock here and there. I’ve got around five weeks left before I start resting more, climbing on rock and seeing what has changed. Yep, Malham season is approaching.
For those of you who love it as much as I do, you will know the bubble of excitement I’m feeling that the spring season is getting closer and it’s nearly time to smear hopefully, grip holds that consistently face the wrong way, tense all the muscles in your body at once and squeal with the effort that this style of climbing notoriously demands. I can’t wait! Malham Cove is very much my happy place; even a bad climbing day is still a good picnic day on the catwalk.
Having said that, I am also nervous. I’ve put in some serious effort to get stronger. Endless fingerboard sessions, weightlifting (with awesome help from the guys at CPC (https://www.facebook.com/Climbing-Performance-Consultants-930065780420658/)), weighted pull ups, campusing, core workouts, board climbing and endurance based climbing is just some of it. I feel like I have done everything I can with the time available. But….what if it hasn’t worked? Or what if, after hours of toil, I’ve only marginally improved? I know I’m psychically stronger but by how much? And will it translate to rock? I suppose this is the risk one takes with big efforts and maybe I’ll never be good enough to climb the things I want to…… but you don’t know unless you try and, well, as a back up, complete failure is probably quite character building.
I’m playing the long game on this route. This spring season has bite size goals attached. I don’t envisage that any red-pointing will be happening, let alone any sending. I’m hoping for improvement, for moves to feel a little less desperate and links to be a little longer.
If nothing else, I’m gunning for the final Simon Lee versus Austrian Oak belay tick. Now that will be historic.
See you other keen beans on the catwalk soon!
Some training pictures and videos:
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/IMG_0887.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/so-much-training/img_0887)
Fingerboarding at the Schoolroom
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/IMG_1441-e1486026026220.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/so-much-training/img_1441)
Endless therabanding
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/IMG_1488-e1486026050970.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/so-much-training/img_1488)
More fingerboarding…..
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/IMG_1550-e1486026074857.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/so-much-training/img_1550)
Lifting weights with the hero that is Jill Whitaker
Woodology at the Schoolroom
This was my project move on the board at the Climbing Works for some time – finally I can do it!!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/IMG_1649.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/so-much-training/img_1649)
More weightlifting….
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/IMG_1715-e1486026092893.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/so-much-training/img_1715)
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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Projecting: Round one with Rainshadow… (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/projecting-round-one-with-rainshadow)
27 April 2017, 4:26 pm
After a winter spent training I worked on Rainshadow for 12 sessions, about 6 weeks: it’s gone so fast.
Slowly piecing things together, changing beta, making progress, changing beta again, making a bit more progress… tiny adjustments, small concessions from the route. Trying to be fresh for each day at the crag, maybe in the process becoming a mild hypochondriac. Trying to find the balance between keeping strength and being rested enough.
Dieting. Again trying to find the balance, wanting to be light but also have enough energy to push myself. How to manage it? Simple calories in vs calories out? Ketogenic? Glyco-dumping the day before? Fasting? Or maybe carb-loading to make sure the fuel is there for the link attempts? Trying to do this and still keep a healthy relationship with food and body image…. now that’s a tall order.
And then there are conditions. Constantly checking the weather. Too hot, too cold, too wet…., some days perfect. Skin damage; split tips, epic bruising. Specific methods of taping; I found myself trying to saw my finger tape with a kitchen knife so it was small and light to fit in my chalk bag. The things we do, eh.
Ha and the main problem is probably over thinking it all.
The best bits? The moments when all those things fade away and it’s just you and the rock and it is hard but simple. The figuring it out, the breakthrough moments are so satisfying and worth it. The days spent in a beautiful place with such lovely people. Seeing other people make breakthroughs on their projects and feeling your own psyche swell with theirs to a new level.
Projecting is a funny old process. So many factors at play, especially when trying something at your limit. It seemed like to just make a good link I needed an awful lot of things to line up. There’s a clue in there somewhere. I need to be over-strong for this route. Gulp.
My goals this year were bite-size in comparison to the end goal of sending but they felt like big mouthfuls nonetheless. The main goal was to link the crux section of the route, to do the “boulder” that lies smack bang in the middle of the route. For those that don’t know Rainshadow, it is comprised of an F8a route (Raindogs) to an awkward rest before the crux boulder (estimated around Font 8Aish (I actually think potentially harder)), which then leads into a burly headwall of about F8a+. Getting the middle bit sorted was my main focus. I found the boulder really hard! It’s 12 moves (from the Raindogs rest to where it eases off) and it’s a proper battle unless you’re Steve Mcclure. Last year I had a wee play on the moves and could just do them in isolation and only just. So I had a long way to come this year to hit my goals.
I find it interesting looking back now at how my short season at Malham panned out. I got better and better until I peaked – two great sessions where I did big links through the hardest section. Then I dropped off the back of that peak with a heavy thud.
Those good sessions gave me such confidence, I felt like the route was actually possible for me. It was still going to be a long journey but one I felt was suddenly realistic and not just a far off dream. Three sessions later and I’m desperately hanging onto that feeling, trying to keep it safe somewhere. I went back for three more days at Malham and my performance went steadily downhill. I rested more but it made no difference. I was struggling with psyche; bruised fingertips, fatigue and I think an element of becoming de-trained. I lost my edge. So I’m taking a step back for a bit to re-group, get stronger and come back when the time is right with a vengeance. I think the key to this route is going to be bloody mindedness and long term psyche for all the effort involved….only one way to find out.
One of the best parts of the season for me has to be the car journeys up to Malham and the time spent on the catwalk. The conversational content now coined “The Malham Files”, would make great reading. From the latest training and diet experiments undertaken by keen Malham goers, to tall tales from the climbing community, current affairs discussions and everything in-between, it’s been a blast. Thanks to everyone in that special community for making it such a fun and interesting place to be, see you back there soon!
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/IMG_1888-e1493306654271.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/projecting-round-one-with-rainshadow/img_1888)
View from the catwalk
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)
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South Africa 2017 (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/south-africa-2017)
4 July 2017, 3:45 pm
I got a bit stuck trying to begin writing this blog; I didn’t really know what to write. In some ways this was one of the best trips I’ve been on, in other ways it was challenging and frustrating at times.
Great thing no.1: I climbed my first V13. As I wrote in my posts on social media at the time, The Pursuit of Happiness has had some mixed views on its grade, with some supporting the original V13 and some suggesting V12. I couldn’t do it on a previous trip and could do it this time so whatever the number I am really psyched. My suspicion is that if we were to add decimals it would be V13.1, but that is perfect, the first foray into a new grade boundary is always at the lower end and I’m happy with that. Setting aside grade chat, the boulder is incredible, pictures and video really don’t do this one justice! A proud line, beautiful holds and try-hard compression all the way. Loved it.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/image12.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/south-africa-2017/image12-2)
The Pursuit of Happiness, photo Jimmy Webb
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/image11-e1499155397104.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/south-africa-2017/image11-2)
This shot gives you more of an idea of the angle, Photo David Mason
This happened in our first week and I also managed to send Ard Ay (V12) the next day, another one left form a previous trip. All was going well and I was psyched to head to Rocklands to re-visit some old demons.
Ard Ay (V12), Cape Town (https://vimeo.com/224163129) from mina leslie-wujastyk (https://vimeo.com/minalesliewujastyk) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com).
Challenging thing no.1: What I didn’t mention about this first week was that David and I both got ill… We still aren’t 100% sure what it was but all suspicions point to drinking bad water in Cape Town. We have drunk the tap water there in the past with no issues but with the country in a current drought situation this perhaps wasn’t the wisest decision. On the bright side, it was only diarrhoea, we didn’t have a fever or nausea or anything like that so we continued to go climbing! To begin with we didn’t feel that bad (I actually did Pursuit on day 3 of being unwell) but as you can imagine, we eventually started to get really tired as our bodies were not holding onto anything for long. It went on for 5 days for me, 10 in total for David who ended up needing antibiotics (amazingly the first course of antibiotics he has EVER taken!).
So the Rocklands section of our trip started off a bit shaky and, although we had a blast, the climbing parts didn’t really go to plan.
Challenging thing no.2: David and I were in a similar boat in Rocklands, we have both done a lot of the classics within our comfort zone of difficulty and were both hoping to be able to up our level. For me, there are loads of V13s to try and in particular I wanted to try again on The Vice. Despite feeling fine for the first few days of being ill, it took its toll and we were both struggling. I also really wrecked my skin in Cape Town – I’m usually one of those annoying people that always has amazing skin so this was a whole new experience for me and I can see why people find it so frustrating! I only had two sessions on The Vice before my motivation ebbed away. I was actually better on it than in the past but a combination of lack of energy, skin and waning psyche eventually meant that I walked away to try other things. It actually didn’t feel sad though, I felt really okay about it and was able to go and enjoy climbing on slightly easier problems.
(http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/image4.jpg) (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/south-africa-2017/image4-3)
The Section (V10), photo Nick Milburn
Great thing no. 2: People!! It’s easy to think that climbing trips are all about climbing but they really aren’t. They are also about the people that you climb and hang out with in all the other moments. This was awesome. David and I went on this trip with two close friends, Tom and Michelle and we had a blast. Between us four, Carol and Jess and Jimmy and Hannah, we took braais (BBQs) to a whole new level of feasting. From great climbing days to morning chats over tea to epic BBQs and long hikes together, these are the moments we cherish.
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Basic Instinct (V10/V11), Photo David Mason
Challenging thing no. 3: Injury. I have never really thought of my lower back as an injury because it has been an issue on and off for so long and I manage it well most of the time. It’s very much chronic rather than acute and usually doesn’t hold me back that much. Luckily for me, it doesn’t hurt to climb; in fact climbing often makes it feel better. It’s the walking uphill with a heavy pad or rucksack that gets it. So much so that I avoid trips to crags with notoriously steep walk ins. It’s sad really, for example, I would love to go back to Ceuse but I’m fearful of the implications the walk in would have for pain and function. Some days in South Africa I would get to the boulders and cry, nerve pain reaching my foot. I would have to spend time stretching and moving to release the spasms before I could think about climbing. It was particularly challenging on this trip for some reason, which I wasn’t expecting.
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Trying out some tape….
On a positive note, it has spurred me on to tackle the issue from more angles now I’m home. I was having treatment before which was really helping (I think being ill knocked my whole system and then walking tired is probably the worst idea!) but I now have more ideas on how to complement that treatment.
Great thing no. 3: Spending more time climbing in Cape Town. I love the rock on the peninsula; it is really fun to climb on. For sure, there is not as much as in Rocklands but there is still room for loads of development and the rock quality is incredible. We ended up leaving Rocklands earlier than planned to spend our last ten days back there and it was great; David sent Simple Knowing (V14) and I was able to put more time into Artform (V12) which was so fun even though I didn’t quite pull it out of the bag in time to go home.
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David on A Simple Knowing (V14)
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Cloverfields (V10/11), Photo David Mason
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View of Cape Town lights on the walk back down from Topside
So, I think that covers it….the trip flew by and it honestly feels a bit strange to be home. We had an amazing time, both climbed things at our limit and you can’t ask for much more than that.
Bouldering for 5 weeks has left me pretty psyched to tie on…..anyone keen for Kilnsey??
Source: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com)