UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: TomP on March 08, 2011, 01:59:23 pm
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Made a visit to Norwood at the weekend, a little crag at the foot of Hunter’s Stones in Stainburn Forest. It has a decent circuit and combined with Hunter’s makes for a class venue, with a great diversity of problems and grades. Between the two venues, I make it around 12+ problems from 7b+ to 8b.
I first went to Norwood just after the main development by Robin Warden, Ross, Amanda and friends. I was lucky enough to spot a great looking line to the left of the superb and mega-classic Larchbow ramp line (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=norwood__larchbow#photo (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=norwood__larchbow#photo)). I climbed this and called it “Pie r Squared”, due to the perfect circular hold in the centre of the wall. This was climbed starting on the obvious undercut flake at a grade of around 7c.
I always intended to go back and try the full line, starting low in the pit (as for Larchbow) then traversing up and across the undercut flake to join Pie r Squared. Fortunately on Saturday I managed to. Archimedes adds some quality moves to join the stand up problem and is approximately 20 feet from bottom to top. The landing is quite awkward, with a two tier type structure. However, it is possible to wedge a pad in the gap and not hinder the climbing at all.
This new start and full line has some really excellent climbing on nice rock. As for grade, I’m not too sure. I’d suggest 7c+ but could be a touch harder and maybe creep into 8a territory. Reckon I’ll be conservative though and offer a grade of 7c+.
I really hope people bother to visit here and Hunter’s Stones. Many of the problems on the X-Block at Hunter’s are yet to see a repeat.
Cheesy vid with smooth editing skills from Andi E to follow.
(http://pdvoag.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pOykNeG6MFsiiDMowRLqcXe2OvhUHb4EVB1VyqirF-65b8xc7Nitu9SXw7grqCYohhmDLJy9DUNSvwVyoWW1RLpjLI7cSJEM9/ArcamedesJPG.jpg?psid=1)
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Looks good. In Principle.
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Archimedes, 7c+, Norwood (http://vimeo.com/20764009)
Having a struggle with vimeo at the moment so there is no sound until I can get home, re-render it and re-upload it. I think the video plays without a problem in the mean time, so you'll just have to come back later if you want to watch it with sound. The link will be the same.
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You're having a struggle because you've managed to upload a 15 minute video with 1 minute of footage in it ::)
Good stuff tho, interesting looking climbing.
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I actually uploaded a one minute video with one minute's footage on it. Vimeo took this as being 15 minutes. :-\
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Did you upload it 15 times?
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It's getting that way :wall:
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The above video should now work. Norwood edge is an excellent little venue and, if combined with Hunter's Stones, makes for a great day out. Larchbow, the problem up the ramp/arete to the right, is one of the coolest problems I've ever done!
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So thats what I missed out on on Saturday! Gutted. Looks great. Will have to go and have a look next time Im down.
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This has been getting some traffic of late. Seems 7C is fair. Great bloc and landing is fine when managed.
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How hard is the Archimedes set up into Pi R Squared? I thought it couldn't be more than 7B for the stand (though it's height dependent, but I do have a shorter reach than Tom).
It doesn't look like it adds much difficulty in the video of Tom, but it wouldn't be a surprise if he's actually just making it look piss because he's so good.
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One tricky move on the link, maybe two. Just takes the edge off and for me getting pocket wasnt piss. Nez reached it easily.
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You psyched for this proud line will?
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Went to try this today, frustratingly found it very cruxy as I couldn't touch the move to the circular hold, even just from the stand. Popping for it off the poor feet felt nails, but trying to go more statically from a better, lower, right foot I was a few cm too short. I imagine for the tall that move is fairly piss?
How did you do it Adam?
Rest of it feels pretty much steady away, couple of half tricky set up moves and it's not all over once you get the circular hold, but you'd be pissed to drop it there.
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How did you do it Adam?
Rest of it feels pretty much steady away, couple of half tricky set up moves and it's not all over once you get the circular hold, but you'd be pissed to drop it there.
Left foot higher small edge and right foot in big hole to right. Up to circle bump left hand up arete, adjust feet and go to top....
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Ah nice, I tried that but with a lower left foot! Will have to go back. Cheers.
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Ah nice, I tried that but with a lower left foot! Will have to go back. Cheers.
Jordan worked something good for short but wouldnt work on link from deck.