UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: c.j.d. on April 17, 2010, 10:10:46 pm
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Now then, now then. Our original young man, the dark and moody Mr Katz (not to be mistaken for Leo Sayer, or indeed, Jack Black) may well have propelled his good self up a piece of rock in Cayley, in a slightly more direct manner.
Its the arete to the right of Crystal Method. Now, this has been climbed by Steve 'Stunning' Dunning, but use of the undercuts which form part of the Crystal Method where used with the left hand (Steve having a good reach) with a top out to the left of the arete (to my knowledge) at the grade of 8a (awesome piece of elcalading by the way).
Sonny Boy Katzy did the same start (sit down on the arete), gained a low undercut with the left hand (pheasible for all folk), pinch on right before pasting right foot on a high foot hold and popping over (utilising a nifty little astro glide) with his left hand for the very top corner point of the arete. No mean feat for a short for sure.
Now, this may seem like a contentious bag of snakes, but when you visit and see/work the line in question, it is possible that this is indeed 'newness'. I mentioned this to Peckitt San last Sunday at the Bowderstone, and having good knowledge of said problem (although neither of us know the name of the arete in question), reckon it is worthy of an honorable mention. Hard V11, poss' V12 me thinks.
Well done that extremely light young man - he's like a back with a body attached for good measure.
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If you can't reach the holds is an excuse for new route claims then grimer, get over 'ere with your fucking pen me old cock.
Or are you saying that he did the whole arete direct rather than slinking off to the left?
In anycase, pink fizz
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Ahah, young Sloper. Its not a case of that, I'm a standard 5.10 (and can reach things if needed), and I really can't reach the holds on Crysal either. This is the style in which a standard sized youth of the relative power proporsions would climb this problem. If you can reach the holds out left, well done, and congrats on a cool 8a, or if not, you would have to do it like this.
Trust the BMC (or not). Whisky rash and jowls.
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This is indeed a frisky effort, and worthy of an honourable mention. He's pulling well at the moment, I look forward to hearing of more derring-do.
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He certainly is frisky at the minute.
The man in question has just ticked 8-Ball at Gardoms.
Must be the new Iams diet.
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That explains his glossy coat too!
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C.J.D.please post more often. I need more writing like this in my life:
Well done that extremely light young man - he's like a back with a body attached for good measure.
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:agree:
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Aw, shucks! When there is somthing worth the banter, I will :)