UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => the blog pile => Topic started by: comPiler on April 09, 2010, 01:00:16 am
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Day 347- Total Motivation Failure (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/day-347-total-motivation-failure.html)
8 April 2010, 6:41 pm
Days of rain- 46
Dry days- 50
I've no idea what happened today. It was raining until 10 or so, so we had a group breakfast with Rick making porridge. We got a few pics of front levers on the local roadsign too. After this, we went to Milly to have coffee and a pain au chocolate/raisin in order for the rocks to dry out. Nemo, Jay and Baz met up with us there- sounds like they've been going well. After coffee we headed over to Roche aux Sabots. This was a somewhere with lots of problems I wanted to do- Smash, Graviton, l'Oblique, JetSet to name a few.
First off we had a look at Zen, and after 2 tries I realised this wasn't a problem for me and my long legs. Nemo was coming close but succumbed to Font Elbow. Jay was looking strong on the end, but hated the start. Baz nailed the problem after a few close calls. Mike was battling a Nemesis- he got a solid sequence for the last bit, but on the link wasn't managing to reach for victory. Jay showed me where Gasthaus Unterslag was, only to find Rutaska and Tom P in situ. Looks an horrendous penalty for missing the last move on this, a big mud slope awaiting.
After this I went back to join the family. I realised I had no motivation at all to try anything else. I don't know why, but I just couldn't be bothered trying anything. So we took the kids to the kid's white circuit, and spent a couple of hours watching them do problems. Then it was time to leave as it was our turn to do tea- sausage, mash and baked beans. I'm not sure where we're off to tomorrow, but I hope I get some psyche back to do something.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7301872228555807291?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Day 348- Redemption (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/day-348-redemption.html)
9 April 2010, 9:40 pm
Days of rain- 46
Dry days- 51
This morning I was awake at 6:15 and couldn't get back to sleep. Maybe it was the poor performance of yesterday tormenting my soul, but whatever it was I got up and drove to Sabots. It was still dark when I arrived, but I headed for JetSet determined to get one of my aims ticked. First go I bothed the right foot and fell off the first move. Second go I slapped the top and didn't hold it. It then took quite a few falls from the first move or the match move before I was back at the final pop. This time I nailed the thing. I had a few goes on Smatch, and was touching the hold every time although I didn't really get the timing right and wasn't really pulling hard as it caned my elbows. Then I headed home for coffee and breakfast.
After food we all headed to Bouligny so BeardyBeast could get on Beaux Quartiers. Unfortunately conditions were poor, so we left after a short visit. Although we did get to eat the pastries BeardyBeast had brought for us.
A visit to Franchard Cuisinier ensued, with BeardyBeast and Rick both doing Beatle Juice pretty easily. We all moved areas, and after a spot of lunch in the sun we had a look at a few of the problems. Misericorde is high and Karma looks nails, so we settled on a nice prow some guys were trying. I got very close to doing Le Mouton à 5 Pattes, falling off the move to the pocket quite a few times. Rick and BeardyBeast declared it rubbish, and my skin was starting to hurt. Then we moved on to Le Mouton à 6 Pattes just to the right. Most people seemed to use a crimp for the right hand, but tallies used a good sidepull out right. For me this was full stretch and a really hard move to catch, certainly no easier than the prow direct. Anyway, we all managed this one and I can sleep at night despite using the sidepull as it was still hard to get to it!
We all decamped to Apremont fo r coffe/beer at the cafe. Rick and co headed off to make tea, and Mike and family went to the supermarket. BeardyBeast and miniBeast accompanied the lank family to look at La Médaille en Chocolat which really hurt my sore skin, so we were soon heading for home. After tea I gave the ladies a lift to Buthiers to try a nemesis white problem slab. It remains a nemesis, but it was a lovely evening at a crag.
So we head for home tomorrow, back to the grind. After a poor Font performance I'm angry enough to get back on all my unfinished business.......(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5725730756568547143?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Day 349- Luton (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/day-349-luton.html)
10 April 2010, 9:54 pm
Days of rain- 46
Dry days- 52
This has come full circle- posting from a phone whilst sat in the bathroom of a Travelodge, albeit it in Luton this time.
Today has been a busy day, mainly due to packing and travelling. We were on the same ferry as Rick and family, and it left a little later than the supposed 17:20. At least SeaFrance weren't on strike still.
After this we stopped at Ashford for fuel and food. The Blobs were tired so we were onto a loser from the start. Then Pizza Hut decided to use BBQ sauce on our Hawaiian and the Blobs rebelled. Blob 2 fell asleep and Blob 1 was hyper. At least we got a correct pizza as well and weren't charged.
Next up the m25 had road works and we took a detour up and back down the M11 which added half an hour to the journey. So here we are in Luton. I hope my car is in one piece in the morning.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2477625259224871246?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Addendum (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/just-quick-note-to-let-you-know-car-was.html)
12 April 2010, 5:34 am
Just a quick note to let you know the car was in one piece after Luton, and we all got home fimr.
Here's as much footage as we took. Sorry it's a bit rubbish, blame Rick, Mike and BeardyBeast for doing things too quickly.
Font April 2010 (http://vimeo.com/10852018) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3745950168461883252?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Day 352- Project Failure! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/day-352-project-failure.html)
13 April 2010, 1:26 pm
Days of rain- 46
Dry days- 55
Today is another 14-22:00 shift, but I had Blob 1 all morning. We had a wander up to Project Number 2, up at Healey Nab. The Ginnster was going to join us but he ended up heading to Wilton for a look at Snakey B. The Blob and I were up at the crag by 8:30 but it soon warmed up. Conditions weren't great, everything felt a bit greasy.
Healey Nab is in quite good nick at the moment (for The Nab) as the trees have shrunk down a bit and there's not too much moss. I got stuck into my Project. This is something I don't seem to be getting closer to. One go today I actually weighted the finishing hold, but slid off. It's basically 2 hard moves, the second being the hardest. It also needs a good pull on the sharp left hand crimp and after a dozen goes it was slicing my skin, so I left it for another day.
The Blobdid some clambering up and down and then amused herself by dancing around in the sun. I noticed a sitter for a pillar thing, which I did after a number of goes- probably a first ascent at around 6a+. I also managed a sitter right of Andi's Mantle, going from a sit on the ledge and slapping to the top from a left heel. Again, I don't think anyone has bothered with it before. I did the last bit of Titanium Traverse quite easily, and static. Then it was time to go home and drop the Blob off at Grandad's. I need to head back to finish off all my projects soon. And maybe head back to Font soon.
Oh, and my 41 Boosters arrived whilst we were away. They are very tight, so I'll have to see how much they stretch. Heels much better though.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6384054474718488075?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Day 353- Project Progress (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/day-353-project-progress.html)
14 April 2010, 9:02 pm
Days of rain- 46
Dry days- 56
Another nice day. Also, I didn't need to be in work until later on so I went to look at Project 1. I chucked the rope down it and had a look on the shunt. The top felt nails, so I came down and repeated my traverse and One of R-Man's old problems. Then I had a look at the Ramp Project, which still feels nails when dry- I'll the BeardyBeast on it again.
I moved back to the project and bouldered the bottom twice pretty easily, as far as the set up for the crux sequence. Then I put my harness back on and had a proper go at the top section. I found a better foot sequence and made the top. This involves a couple of pretty tenuous, on-off, slaps in a position I wouldn't like to fall off. BeardyBeast felt it was font 7a+ and today it felt the grade. With the crux being the last move and no gear I guess it'd be E4 in old money.
So I'm hoping it stays dry for now. I'd like to top rope it a couple of times, then go for the solo/highball. The top out is the bit I'm really most worried about- loose blocks and mud, woo.
I'm going to try to head back to Font in August, since the Blob is off school anyway. I'm waiting to hear back to confirm my leave as well as from Neil at Maisonbleau regarding booking. The Boss has even offered to go for 2 weeks, but I'm not sure I could manage that from previous experience. Fingers crossed though, I feel as though I need to redeem myself for the shit performance this time around.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8204082293542459754?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Day 355- More Additions (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/day-355-more-additions.html)
16 April 2010, 8:36 pm
Days of rain- 46
Dry days- 58
The dry, sunny weather continues.
I headed back to the project this afternoon. I did the crux bit 3 or 4 times in a row. I was going to go for it, but the mud slope top out and teh sloping landing made me want a spotter. I know it'll go though, bring on the fear.
In addition I added a new Dyno and did the same problem as a heinous mantel. I also did a direct version of one of R-Man's old problems, and got close to a project dyno. Not a bad couple of hours really.
All I need is a spotter and I'll get this done. Although I think I may have a rope up top for the mud slope......(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8662674584194838846?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Day 359- Windy (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/day-359-windy.html)
20 April 2010, 10:03 pm
Days of rain- 47
Dry days- 61
Brief blog today. Went to the Project, but it was blowing a gale- not ideal for trying a balancy highball. Did it 3 times in a row on shunt, pretty sure it'll go down next time conditions are OK. Bumped into a guy taking photos for the new guide.
Also getting a Lancashire 7s and 8s list together, something I've meant to do for ages. Feel free to add to it here (http://www.ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Lancashire_7s_and_8s).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-998924360536686137?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Day 360- David Vetter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/day-360-david-vetter.html)
21 April 2010, 6:31 pm
Days of rain- 47
Dry days- 62
After doing my tedious journal appraisal this afternoon, I headed back to Stronstrey. I was quite pleased to find it was pretty still, just a gentle breeze, and a bit warmer than yesterday.
I went up top and dangled a rope down the mud slope (which in the end I didn't use as I couldn't reach), then went back down and put my 2 mats down. As the landing is pretty sloing I pegged them down again, then put the camera up. Since I'd done it 3 times on a rope yesterday I decided not to bother shunting it again, so I put my boots on and went for it.
Before I realised it I was at the crux and it felt easy. The pop to the top was less of a pop than it has been before, I seem to manage to lean into it more so the arete jammed into my groin. But then the fun began......
I pulled up the the slightly suspect block, and the highest I'd ever been- since the shunt rope was so diagonal I've never tried the top out before. I half mantelled up, ending up resting footless on my left elbow and feeling about for a firm bit of heather. Eventually after some udging and much sketching (not to mention crapping it a bit), I managed to sling a leg over the top of the arete. Then more udging until I got a bit more height and got my right heel on, then I was up. Thank fuck for a lump of heather is all I can say. By this time I was up and didn't need my knnotted rope that was to protect the muddy top. Anyway, I apologise for the utter lack of style at the top but it was done onsight :-)
So there you are, David Vetter Font 7a+. Or E3 6c if you prefer (I wonder if it'll make it into the new guidebook). A filthy green arete I noticed one snowy day whilst taking pics for the guide, spent 5 sessions cleaning it, and another 3 dangling on a rope practicing it. I'm pretty pleased to have got it done at last, I was starting to think the fates were against me.
BeardyBeast wants to go sport climbing on Friday, and whilst it's really not my bag I may join him. I just don't trust bolts (weird, but it's because I can assess trad gear as I put it in I think) and I now have no head for leading. Not a good recipe for going sporting. Better humour him I suppose.
I've added a video of some of the new stuff 2 posts below here, and here's the new one from today. Sorry it's sketchy as fuck!!
David Vetter- First Ascent (http://vimeo.com/11113810) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6285448592573780614?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Day 361- Not fit for Longridge (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/day-361-not-fit-for-longridge.html)
22 April 2010, 8:59 pm
Days of rain- 47
Dry days- 63
Pretty good conditions at Longridge, and quite busy too: in attendence were the Ginnster, Weak Sam, Mick Lovatt, The GasMan, AdamD, Serpico plus others. And I finally got to meet Andy F, who was looking as strong as I'd expected.
Basically there was some Banter, I did Kiss the Razor's Edge in 2 parts (one to aim for this year) and then had a play on The Vickers Eliminate- I was getting close to the first move, but I feel pretty weak in the left shoulder. I also failed to get the pocket on Big Marine (as usual), and this thing needs putting to bed. I'm most definitely not CyL Strong at the moment.
Anyway, tomorrow BeardyBeast has pursuaded me to go to Kilnsey where I will doubtless flail, gibber, and fail. Awesome.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4369631052642191755?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Day 362- St George and Kilnsey (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/day-362-st-george-and-kilnsey.html)
23 April 2010, 5:40 pm
Days of rain- 47
Dry days- 64
St George's Day, although it seems to have silently slipped by all but the bastard BNP. BeardyBeast has also had his head shaved, although I'm not sure that that is at all linked.
Kilnsey. I arrived just after 10, UpTownGirl and BeardyBeast were both having a look at their little project of a font 7c+ into an F8a+/b. Looks interesting, and quite hard. I had a little look at the bouldering to warm up. My print out was hard to read as the ink was running out, but I managed a font 6a (woop) a few times. Everything felt like poor friction, almost dusty. And it all felt hard, with several holds feeling quite painful.
Anyway, I was directed to a "nice bouldery" F7a+ (Smooth Torquer? maybe) which I had a play on the start of. It had decent holds, but big reaches between them and after a couple of goes at the start I was feeling pretty tired. At this point UpTown had to shoot off to maintain domestic bliss, so BeardyBeast put some clips in and I had a look on the rope. I was managing to get the hardest move at the start but Mr Fat hands was then struggling to do the move right to the bucket. Tired, I came down and watched BeardyBeast have a go. I was quite relieved to find he struggled a bit on the hard move, and then dangled about a bit before getting to the lower off. On top rope I did the same as before, fucking up the sidepull moves. And then I was knackered and couldn't manage more than 3 moves in a row- I stripped the thing in a 90% dog, 10% climb stylee and then we left.
On my way back I had a call to say the Boss was getting home earlier than expected, so I opted for some bumbling at Widdop since it was such a nice day. Unfortunately, a rather impressive grass/heather fire had closed the Widdop parking and the road beyond, so a headed back a little and stomped up to the Clattering Stones. I've wanted to look at some of the harder problems on the big block since I visited many years ago. The Uprising (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=widdop__clattering_5_6#photo) is a nice line, but there's a big block next to it which is a little intimidating. I pulled on and had a slap about, but my skin was sore so I had a look at the 7a on the block. I made good progress on Fontanelles, but was losing flesh so stopped trying. Both Androsterone and Linea Nigra confused me, I was getting established and then getting nowhere fast. So I did Clatterjack Pencil again and then went home.
Basically today has confirmed what I knew anyway- I'm unfit and any what little power I have ebbs away pretty quickly. I'm certainly no sport climber but I can also see how it would help with the bouldering, so I'll have to think whether or not I want to dangle around on ropes outside/ indoors on more occasions. Or even just focus training more closely.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1466362143300323499?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Day 364- Closure (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/day-364-closure.html)
25 April 2010, 2:56 pm
Days of rain- 48
Dry days- 65
I'm on nights at the moment, but last night wasn't too busy. Today was cold and cloudy with showers coming and going. I wanted to get out, but it would have to be somewhere exposed, quick drying, and fairly close. I've had an aim for this year that I haven't dared put into black and white, I mentioned it to BeardyBeast at Kilnsey and he pulled an "are you stupid?" face at me. But it's been bubbling on the side burner since 26/4/09, and I have never felt comfortable with it hanging over me. My aim was to gain retribution before a year was out.
With some apprehension I headed North on the M6, and parked up at Newbiggin crags. I opted for the limestone pavement approach as it's a nice walk across some lovely country but also because I had the option of trying Surfer Rosa or The Fridge low start if things went badly.
I was pretty hot when I arrived at the Best Limestone Wall in Britain, especially as I had 2 mats this time. I warmed up a bit on some of the nice easy walls around here, then turned to my objective. New Rose. A problem with a history, a Gaskins Classic. It's claimed at least 2 A2s, the other allegedly being Mr Vickers', or so Weak Sam told me once.
Last time I was here I didn't even dare pull on the right hand pocket. When I snapped the A2 I held this 2 finger half pad pocket as a full crimp, thumb pinching a crozzle. I didn't dare do that today, so I ended up doing a weird open handed thingy. 2 fingers in the pocket, but not crimping, thumb on a crozzle lower down. It felt infinitely less tweaky, but also less secure (as you'll see in the video). After a lot of faff and puffing and panting I finally pulled on and took my left hand off.
Nothing happened- no snap, no pain- nothing. Hmmm, I thought. After several more test runs I had the left hand crimp, it felt good as it was pretty cold today. I dropped off and tried to get some psyche.
With the HV20 running, I tried again- pull on, left hand to crimp, left foot up- suck in the swing- and go!! Where I'd been slapping before, today I kinda reached to the break, and there I was. I matched up and looked to the upper wall. The superdirect version uses a really painful left hand pocket to step high for the break. This was very painful, and I stepped back down and dropped off. Fuck.
The next go my right hand blew from the pocket sending me down to batter my right knee on the boulders below the problem. This made me rather angry, so I gathered myself for a proper attempt. This time I was a little less static getting the break, but then managed to wobble to the top by moving a foot to the right (this is the method Greg used in his old video if I recall correctly). And that was that. I think that the Font 7b the problem now gets is about right, but I have to say it's one of the best walls around. Awesome.
After this I went to have a brief look at The Coil. I tried twice, and almost held the break twice but my skin was sore after ripping out of the New Rose pocket, so I went home. I have to say though, Farleton is looking a mess today- tons of chalk everywhere with tick marks and fingertape and drink bottles left lying around. I've tidied up as much as I could, but let's not ruin our crags.
So it's my last night tonight, and with New Rose put to bed I am free to try other things. With sore skin, more lime action may be required- I'll see what the BeardyBeast is up to. Off to bed now for a brief sleep.
New Rose- The Circle complete (http://vimeo.com/11207869) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6991833244713539206?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Nice one on going back to beat an old foe. New rose is a very nice problem. I haven't managed it yet, but from my attempts it felt harder than 7B, perhaps it will feel easier when I go back? I don't mean to belittle you're achievement but perhaps you have a lankvantage?
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As I'm sure you'll know, it was always 7c- but then Greg saw I managed to keep my low foot on, and he (and others) have managed it the same way. I may be lanky but the same sequence has been done by a few others. Greg seems to think 7a+/b.
Basically I reckon if you can pull really hard on that foul pocket, you'll find it easy. I think it's hard, I'd personally reckon 7b/+ but I seem to be in a minority there.
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Windy Clough (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/windy-clough.html)
26 April 2010, 4:03 pm
Days of rain- 48
Dry days- 66
As you'll see, I'm not counting days any more- partly because I had always intended to stop at a year, and partly because I don't need to anymore.
I had a crap night at work last night, not impressed at all. Consequently I was knackered when I got home and my plan of going to look at Woodwell OR looked a bit silly. Add to that an aching left shoulder and things didn't look hopeful. It was dull and grey this morning, so I fell upon the idea of going to Windy Clough. This is a venue I bouldered at when my Grandmother was alive, but I haven't been since about 1995 I think. I've spent a fair bit of time finding rocks in the past, so it was a nice reminisce to go back and try some of the stuff from Greg's guide.
First up I went to the boulders near the top of the hill. I jumped straight on Bodacious, a one move 7a. Initially I felt nowhere near to getting it, but then something clicked and I was holding the top, but dabbing as my foot swung off. 3rd time I hit the top I didn't dab, so topped out in style. Then I did the 6c to the right (Bully for Bugs), but the top out wasn't stylish. To tick the block I did the easy traverse, which was quite nice.
Then over to the other side of the hill. I got shut down on Live Evil, mainly as my left hand was thin on skin so it hurt like crazy. I did Welcome to the Palindrome first go, which was nice. And then I went to look at No Country For Old Men, a funky arete thingy. This was coated in chalk and tick marks, which I spent some time scrubbing off- I won't go on about it as I'm starting to sound like a broken record, but c'mon people. Initially I was really struggling with a few of the moves, but slowly I managed to get them until I'd done all of them. Now, I have no doubt that Greg did this by bringing a (right?) foot out to the lip once he'd got the high hold on the arete. Me being lanky, I kept a foot low down and kept slapping slopers ending up at absolute full stretch and then having to suck in a swing on slopers. Greg, I apologise in advance if this sequence offends your eyes ;-)Having said that, I still found this pretty hard so it's still at least 7b using lankiness- but if you're taller than me it may be easier.
After countless failed links, I finally managed to get everything to stick and got to the lip. Off came the feet, and lo!- I managed to stay on- just the top out to do and it was in the bag. Unfortunately, my skin is pretty screwed now from all the sliding off the holds so that may impact on venues for tomorrow. I had another go at cleaning chalk off the thing, then sat down and ate some Jaffa cakes. I had a chat to an older guy that was having a look about, he seems to spend a lot of time in Silverdale but I didn't recognise him. Then I headed down to warm down on the Rigg Lane Boulders. I did problems 1-5 in my Boosters in a further attempt to wear them in, then headed back to the car bumping into someone else with a Greg guide and a pad.
There's a lot of rock here, and at Baines, but from previous explorations I know that not a lot of it is worth climbing. I seem to remember there's a couple of the larger blocks on the west flank of the hill have some good lines, but the landings tend to be gash and the approach tedious. Further up Clougha there's a couple of bigger buttresses with some low end stuff, bit of a walk though. If you're local you can spend ages searching the place.
On the way home I stopped off at Quernmore chapel for the overdue paying of respects, got to me more today for some reason, tiredness I assume. And then back here, and shortly I'll head out to pick the Blobs up. I've had a message that BeardyBeast has been onsight soloing top end trad today- sickening, all this crush gets a bit tedious after a while.
I wonder where to go tomorrow......
Bouldering at Windy Clough (http://vimeo.com/11237092) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1382223500240387613?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Skinless Searchings (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/skinless-searchings.html)
27 April 2010, 6:46 pm
Days of rain- 48
Dry days- 67
I took myself to Woodwell today in search of skin friendly problems. First up I had a look at Angel Deelite, but the left hand crimp was too painful so I moved over to Turbulence. I tried a left heel-toe lock (not the best plan on the painful knee) but couldn't work out what I was doing. This thing has me confused, although looking at the LakesBloc pics Greg seems to be going the other way (ie right foot high and right hand up). I'll have to look next time.
Since the skin was so sore I opted to look for something involving smooth holds. The Crushinator looked a good option, mostly non-threatening holds. I had a look at the stand up and was getting quite close after a few goes. The stand up consists of squeezing the prow thingy, tenuous left toe and throw for a right hand edge. The edge isn't easy to latch properly, and it took a while to work out what to do- a weird leg flick thing with the right leg. Once I got this sussed, I put the HV20 on and did the thing first go. The top is similar to Not Bad Dave SDS with a couple of poor handholds and some knee/bicycle action.
OK, thought I, that felt reasonable so let's try the sit start. The stand up gets 7b+ in the current guide, but I'd say it's a bit easier than that. The sitter I wasn't sure what was in for feet as there's an obvious right footlock and not much else. Working on the assumption the foot lock is in (it's stupid to eliminate such a logical hold) I struggled with the first move. This is an all out slap for a slimy sidepull sloper, with full commitment to the footlock. It took quite a lot of goes to nail that move- I think this and the stand up move are by far the hardest moves. Next is a slap with the Left hand, then rearrange feet and it's the stand up. Except you've got the right foot on so my leg flick doesn't work. After an hour of working it, I was able to get to the stand up crux but never held the edge. I must have done this a dozen times at least. Adding the sit start makes the stand up grades harder. Whether it's 7c I don't know, maybe tough 7b+, but it really suits me- I like the compression styleee.
After falling off the same move again and again, I headed back to the car. I stuck the kit in then wandered down the other path, which I've never been down. I was half surprised how close Not Bad Dave was. I was also surprised to find the right hand crimp of NBD SDS was really loose and rattly. Not easy to sort as I doubt it's repairable in position, it'll be a take out and re-glue job (or leave it and see what's left when it comes out). There seems to be some freeze-thaw action going on- Not Bad Dave sitter, Poison. I suppose it shows that our playground isn't permanent and we should have a lot of respect for what we have.
I see Greg commented that a friend of his thought No Country For Old Men was 7a with the foot kept low. I don't know how tall this dude is, but it certainly felt 7b to me. But then if you can reach even a couple of centimetres more you could get the good lip hold and it'd be easy. All this led me on to look at ape indices, not something that has concerned me before. To cut a short story shorter I've got a 2 inch deficit on reach. Yup, I'm lanky but I've got midget arms, which makes sense as my span has never been much better than a lot of people I've climbed with.
I'm sat typing this listening to Demanufacture (a superb album) and wearing my tightest pair of Boosters. And wondering why that bloke on Casualty needs a torque wrench to apply a pelvic ex fix, WTF? Back to work tomorrow, but I'm keen to get back to finish off the sitter from today. Then there's Poison and Vitruvian Man, it's getting a bit warm for my Grit aims.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-930985156886273388?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Crushination (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/crushination.html)
29 April 2010, 1:32 pm
Days of rain- 48
Dry days- 69
I was supposed to have a full morning of clinic, but it soon became clear most were cancelled. Which meant a free morning, so a rematch was on the cards. I wouldn't have much time as I had to be back for 2pm, and it was drizzling this morning so I was in two minds whether or not to bother. A brief MSN conversation with Nemo inspired me to go anyway.
The drizzle was turning to rain as I left but the further North I went, the lighter it got and by Lancaster it was dry. I've been really sore the last couple of days, both hips and both shoulders/arms- just shows I was having to actually pull on the Crushinator on Tuesday. And that I'm getting old.
Initially I opted to try the stand up crux to get it a bit more sussed. I rapidly found it was still very low percentage and depended entirely on catching the edge correctly, then holding the inevitable swing. I did the move a couple of times but realised it was pointless trying to get it wired as it's just not one of those moves (for me at least). So I set about the sitter. The first moves still feel burly as hell, and on one occasion I missed the second slap and ended up smashing my ass on a block, ouch said the Lankster. But after settling into it I was getting to the stand up crux most goes. A few times I nearly held that move, but it was becoming more and more obvious that nearly getting the move is a million miles from actually holding it.
Then the temperature dropped a bit and the sloping holds felt a tiny bit better. And after 2 hours of failing, I caught the edge- not quite right, but enough- and managed to bicycle up whilst feeling I was about to pop off. And relax, ticked. i have to say that even when I did the problem, it still felt hard. Often with problems, the go you do it the problem feels OK. This didn't and I think I was a little flippant on Tuesday about its difficulty, I can agree with it being 7c. So that's what I'll call it for now.
After this I got a few shots from different angles, then headed over to look at Rigpa as I've never really looked at it. I'm still not clear where it goes exactly, it looked as if it went up agroove, stepped right past sidepulls to a good hold at the upper groove. I then had a quick look at Not Bad Dave sitter, and surprised myself by getting pretty close to the first move- something that has felt impossible in the past. Then I fell off the last move of Whistler RH, but it was time to go back to work.
BeardyBeast is off questing on the clips today, but he's keen to get back to Ebeneezer Goode tomorrow so I may wander up to join him. More unfinished business but I doubt I'll be in any condition to have proper attempts at anything. If it doesn't rain of course.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4359754312727302781?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Soreness and Traffic (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/soreness-and-traffic.html)
30 April 2010, 9:22 pm
Days of rain- 48
Dry days- 70
BeardyBeast came over for a brief Woodwell trip. Due to heavy traffic etc we didn't arrive until gone 19:00. Despite the rain today, the buttress was pretty much dry. BeardyBeast dispatched The Crushinator, declaring it easy 7c, maybe hard 7b+. We looked at Turbulence, and whilst I still haven't worked out a sequence that works, BeardyBeast made some progress on it via a super burly sequence. Similar story on Paroxysm too, although we weren't sure what's in above the lip.
We had a play on Flying Finish as it was getting dark. I was getting the poorer edge OK, and from here I struggled to get a heel on. BeardyBeast couldn't get to the hold but from there could casually bung a heel on and cross over to the better hold. Maybe fresh and not sore from previous sessions it would go.
And then it was dark so we headed off. I may get out briefly on Sunday, may look at Trowbarrow for some different beta. Also got an e-mail from Canon, need to send the HV20 back for them to look at (which should take a couple of days). Probably get that done next week.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2691932315138131598?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Ass kicking at Fairy Steps..... again (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/ass-kicking-at-fairy-steps-again.html)
2 May 2010, 7:12 pm
Days of rain- 49
Dry days- 71
After yesterday's rain I wasn't sure what would be dry, but as the Blobs were up at 6 I headed out quite early. I decided to risk a rematch with Aeon Dyno, on the off chance it'd be dry. I was at Aeon buttress before 9, although it didn't feel too great. Basically Aeon Dyno kicked my arse again, although I felt a lot closer with an outside edge of the right foot. I did the first move of Aeon, then wandered up to Becoming.
Second Coming- couldn't even pull on, what the f*ck? This is 7a but I just got shut down. The 7a+ on the wall to the right also got the better ofme. I was pulling on with right foot outside edge, left foot on obvious hold. SLap RH up, then what? I tried another RH slap with no avail. Getting back and watching vids I see you go LH to the crack (which I thought was out) so next time I go I can try again. I fondled the holds on Walk Away, looked at Axiom (nails!) and Intellect SDS which The Hebsonator did recently. I can't see how you go about it, and having done the stand up ages ago I recall it being desperate.
Then it was time to head home. I have the opportunity to head out tomorrow, but I'm not sure where to go. Maybe Trowbarrow to fail on Pit Problem/ Vitruvian.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1271797371081648652?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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G Time (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/g-time.html)
3 May 2010, 1:15 pm
Days of rain- 49
Dry days- 72
I headed out to Trowbarrow early on. The left shoulder is still sore from Crushinator, feels like an ACJ strain now. Also the left knee is sore from doing foot locks at Windy Clough. So it didn't look promising.
And it wasn't. I tried using a heel instead of a toe on Vitruvian Man, but it felt hard to pull on compared to usual and the Sam heel wasn't sitting well. A worse performance than previously. I had a look at Pit Problem, and was touching the hold but taking the foot lock out. Needs more commitment and it'd be OK I think. During my time there, Lord G arrived with family, nodded a perfunctory "morning" and went to Red Wall.
At this point Weak Sam turned up. He had won a charity powerlifting contest yesterday, so was opting for an easy day. We had a chat, wandered up to Red Wall for a brief stalk, then he headed off to try his Woodwell super link. I did Ramp Traverse first go, then went home.
Feeling crap on VM, I am tempted to sack it off but I'll have to try it when I'm fresh and not sore. Poison may be a better option at present.
And now we're baking Gingerbread Men. They should all have a bald head and a vein of ultimate power.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2980384959203789352?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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The Boss on the grit (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/boss-on-grit.html)
4 May 2010, 8:18 pm
Days of rain- 49
Dry days- 73
After work I dragged the Boss to Brownstones, only 3 months til Font. She managed Mantelstrung and Chockerblock Corner with slight cajoling. I found all my old regulars pretty tricky, although I was wearing the Boosters in a vain attempt to get them broken in.
Warton/Woodwell tomorrow, not sure which. Have to see what the Bearded One wishes to crush.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1736878354572878870?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Greasy McGreasyson (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/greasy-mcgreasyson.html)
5 May 2010, 4:55 pm
Days of rain- 49
Dry days- 74
Today I was working a late (or rather, I am working a late). I'd planned to go to Warton this morning but I was shattered when I woke up and couldn't be bothered walking up the hill, so I changed the plan to go to Woodwell. BeardyBeast was going to meet up at 10, and as I got there at 9 I went to Tom's to have a look at a couple of Nemeses.
First up was Beauty of being Numb, which I've always struggled with. I haven't been back on it for well over a year due to lack of crimp ability. Today I was getting to the lip pretty much static, but not holding the thing. So I had a look at Screaming Slave, which I've never got close to before. Today, despite it feeling really greasy, I managed to touch the lip with my left hand- a new thing for me! I did the last bit from matched on the lip to the top, so I'm confident it'll go if I can do the move to the lip. Another to come back to in better conditions. At this BeardyBeast turned up declaring he'd left his boot/chalk/mat etc at home. What a tool.
We opted to head over to WoR, but just as we were leaving Weak Sam turned up to try his link up, so we had some banter then moved on. Turbulence was greasy as hell, as was Flying Finish. BeardyBeast wasn't psyched, not helped that he was getting cramp in my Boosters. I managed to do Alien Head, which kicked my ass the other day. Then we moved on to the middle section. I managed to pull onto Griddle Groove for the 1st time, but was at a loss what to do next. BeardyBeast was pulling on and slapping for a crap right hand edge over the lip. He did the moves from this to the top, so if he gets that move done it's in the bag. I then fell off the last move of Whistler RH again.
It was nearly time to head to work, but there was just time to squeeze in a cream tea. We ordered "2 cream teas", but then had to specify that we wanted tea. Odd. And then, after this healthy snack, it was time to go home. Next time (assuming it's better conditions) I will do BOBN, BeardyBeast will bring his boots, we'll get back on Turbulence and Griddle Groove and life will be sweet.
Mad props to UpTownGirl for nailing his little project. Go Girl!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6371645178392678977?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Jumbles Exploration (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/jumbles-exploration.html)
9 May 2010, 8:46 pm
Days of rain- 50
Dry days- 77
I met up with BeardyBeast and the Ginnster at Jumbles this afternoon. This is a new venue currently under development (and excavation). Mini Beast was asleep in the car, so I left them in the parking and wandered down to the crag to meet the Ginnster. To be honest, only two or three things appealed and the rest looked pretty easy or pretty chossy (or both).
Initially we had a look at Clown's Pocket, a nice looking line which currently starts on the right arete and bounces into a shothole. The Ginnster has been looking at this for a while, so was keen to get it done today. BeardyBeast did it quite easily as we have come to expect.I got sucked into trying the direct versions. One involves a dyno to the drill hole from 2 good crimps and not much for feet. The other we were trying as a rock over on a high right heel to get an undercut on the original. I was close to the dyno, but no more than that. I can get the lip of the hold most goes but it's very blind and involves a big swing.
I was tickling the rockover method but it needed BeardyBeast to step in and crush it, declaring it font 7a (pinch of salt...). The Ginnster then proceded to look solid on Clown's Pocket only to bloast off when his right hand flew off the good hold. He landed on his back, whacking his head/neck and rattling teeth loose. He'll be sore tomorrow, but hopefully that's all.
We then had a look at a nice roof that's a Geoff Hibbert project. On my first go I got to the flatties on the lip but then dropped off. BeardyBeast flashed it to the big jugs higher up but then he too came down. I got to the same point on my 2nd go, so it's still a project ;-) I cleaned off 2 large loose blocks from the line, which would have been very dangerous to pull on. I'd say it's about font 6b, but we did the move round the lip footless to avoid any swing. And then we headed home to escape the midges. I'm off tomorrow morning so I may end up having a rematch up in Silverdale.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-305473795811861926?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rainy day at Tom's (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/rainy-day-at-toms.html)
10 May 2010, 1:42 pm
Days of rain- 51
Dry days- 77
This morning was looking promising, but then the weather closed in and the rain began. From previous experience I decided to take a risk on a Woodwell visit. It didn't look like it would be worth it as I drove past Lancaster in heavy rain, but when I arrived most of Tom's Buttress was dry-ish.
I hung from a few holds in a vague warm up, then went to look at BOBN. The right hand edge on this is moving a lot, pretty loose really, and I was in two minds whether to try it or not. In the end I gave it a go on the principle that it would be a difficult in-situ mend, and putting it back after breakage may be easier. Weak Sam arrived as I was trying it so we had a bit of banter and a chocolate chip cookie. Today I felt quite good on BOBN, despite the left shoulder being pretty painful again after yesterday. I was getting the lip hold but still not quite static. Once my left heel hurt, I left it- I just hope the hold stays in place until I can head back and finish it off.
I moved back to Screaming Slave. Weak Sam was adamant that I was using the wrong hold in the lip- he pointed out the well chalked pinch about 6 inches right of the unchalked hold I'd always tried it from. I must admit this is the more obvious hold to use, and the only one that had chalk on it, but reviewing the Gaskins video on Stick It he uses the 3 finger sloper that I'd always thought was the right one. Anyway, using the hold Weak Sam advised I managed to get a sequence sorted and proceded to fall out of the finishing slot a few times. Still felt about right for 7b to me, and I think this is the way a lot of people are doing it nowadays- Greg?
And then it was time to head home and come to work. My skin's pretty sore now, but I'm keen to head back. I'm tempted to do Screaming Slave with the Weak Sam pinch, then have another go at the Gaskins sequence- I think it'll go with a bit of an udge. Could you sleep at night at night if you didn't do the G sequence? And BOBN has taken too long for such a silly problem, needs to get done. We shall see.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1269864381548247002?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Stronstrey repeats (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/stronstrey-repeats.html)
11 May 2010, 9:08 pm
Days of rain- 51
Dry days- 78
UKB is still unavailable at home, and judging by the other people having issues I suspect TalkTalk may be part of the problem. I've e-mailed them so we shall see what somes of it.
I finished a little early today, so after collecting the car from its MOT I nipped over to Stronstrey to get some pics and for a bumble about. I need to get the topo updated as there's a few things that need to go in it. It was drizzling when I arrived, but I headed up to the crag and it seemed to settle OK. I did Feather Back, or at least what I thought was Feather Back. There's 3 quite pleasant problems there so I did them all to make sure- I'll e-mail R-man and check which he did. After that I did the 3 problems right of Mirth of the Ducks, then moved across to Bob On.
I had a coupe of goes and managed the first move, which is the crux. So then I put the camcorder on and went to do it. I promptly snapped off the left foot hold that I'd been rocking up on for the arete pinch. Great. So I tried a new sequence with a left outside edge on a good knobble. After 2 goes I got the move to the arete pinch and promptly snapped that foothold too. Balls. I managed to repeat it with a tenuous outside left foot and a bit of a slap, but it's a bit harder than before.
I moved across to Howsat but my alarm went off, so it was time to go home. I may be free tomorrow evening so a repeat try on the project dyno may be in order, have to see how the time pand out.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6428139093270831425?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Back for more!! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/back-for-more.html)
12 May 2010, 9:39 pm
Days of rain- 51
Dry days- 79
After the Blobs were in bed I headed back to Stronstrey to get a few more pictures do some more bumbling. It was another nice evening, and I quickly nipped round the quarry taking the last photos I need for the guide. Once I'd done this I warmed up doing a few new eliminates on the Wurzel Gummidge block. I had wanted to do a dyno from the slots in the break to the top but I was struggling to get my fingers out, so left that one for fear of needing some K-wire action.
I repeated R-Man's problems in the quarry. TREEOH I did by pulling on with an undercut, then superspantasticlanking to an OK sloping edge. This would be much harder if you couldn't reach, but I'm not sure how Robin did it. Working my way round and ticking problems I ended up at the old Nemesis on the Phat Haendel bock- the dyno from undercuts to top. I've tried this quite a number of times now and it's always felt hard. Today it still felt hard. Eventually, however, I managed to get 3 fingers half a pad onto the top, my foot stayed on and I held the swing. I'll give it font 7a but it's very morpho. Funky move though.
I had a quick look at Howsat but didn't fancy sliding down the hill on my back if I came off, so left it and headed back home as it was getting dark. I see R-man has added more problems to the Broken Jokes Buttress at Egerton, I need to get back and finish the, er, unfinished business. As well as Warton, Trowbarrow, Woodwell, Earl, Almscliff........
A video will magically appear here tomorrow. Woooo.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1440520332606258?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Lancashire 7+8 List (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/lancashire-78-list.html)
14 May 2010, 9:34 pm
I've finally completed the epic task of researching and listing the 7s and 8s in Lancashire. Thanks to Greg Chapman for allowing me to use his LakesBloc lists, which have been updated with FA details and added to with the South Lancs stuff. Thanks also to all the kind people that have checked details adn made corrections, you know who you are.
Feedback is very welcome, especially with corrections and updates. Link are here (right click and save as will probably be best):
Lancashire 7+8 list by grade (http://attachments.wetpaintserv.us/ETTD0LTCeBO9OdSaI1AWdQ35235)
Lancashire 7+8 list by crag (http://attachments.wetpaintserv.us/72FxXPRk_YMvtE6e1dCCJg35151)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-309737520294198048?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Burbage bumblings (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/burbage-bumblings.html)
17 May 2010, 5:27 pm
Days of rain- 52
Dry days- 83
I didn't know where to go today as it was forecast to be warm. I had to drop the Blobs off and pick them up, which limited timing a little. In the end I plumped for Burbage South, partly as The Rib is on my 2010 list and partly for revenge on Crash N Gurn.
I parked up at 10 and wandered down. I ended up walking along the edge as I've never really bouldered there. After a bit of stomping around (and managing to skin an ankle on a boulder) I ended up at The Rib. I made quite reasonable progress on this, but the last move (the crux) spat me off a few times. In the video you'll note I try to get my right foot up with my left heel still on, in fact I ended up swapping this to a toe and getting a higher right foot. I have to say conditions weren't the best, so I'm keen to get back on it in better temps.
I also had a look at Fuji Heavy Industries (not sure what to do here) and Electrical Storm (nails) as well as gazing at Attitude Inspector (need a spotter I think) and the Alliance (ditto). Then I wandered to the boulders, heading straight for Crash n Gurn. Last visit I couldn't even pull on the thing, but that was because I was trying to use a higher foothold (blame BeardyBeast). Today I tried it off the lower smear and- lo!- I pulled on. Within a few goes I was touching the jug, so I put the camera on. I nailed it next go, jumped down and did it again. I moved the camera and did it again- 3 in a row. It's a knack thing, and once it works it's pretty OK to repeat.
After this I wandered over to the Sheep where I met Dan, who I'd met at the Cliff when we tried Matterhorn Sitter. (UpTown, if you read this he says hello and is looking forward to a Keel rematch.) He and his mate were just leaving after dropping the easy top of Talk To Me, Martin. We had a chat, then they headed off. I failed to top out the Sheep despite getting there a few times- dunce. Tired I think. After this I did some easier stuff, then my alarm went off at 2pm so I had to leave.
Every time I go to the Peak I get utterly spanked, I've no idea why but it's true.
Burbage South (http://vimeo.com/11810981) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5706983741681870747?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Monty Rides Again (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/monty-rides-again.html)
18 May 2010, 9:06 pm
Days of rain- 52
Dry days- 84
I had a spare hour this afternoon, so in blazing sun (23 degrees) I braved a look at Lower Montcliffe. Maid In Stone was my aim, I don't think it's had a repeat since R-Man did it May 2008. Not that anyone boulders at Monty anyway.
I had a look, it's all on positive holds with quite dynamic moves between- my kinda thing. I did it quite quickly, then shot a couple of angles (it's a hard problem to film). Second ascent of an R-Man esoteric classic? Nothing new there then!
After this I had a brief try at Indian Face SDS, but it was far too hot and all I acheived was a downhill slide on my back. I then did all but the last move on Dinosaur Adventure 3D, which felt 7a to me. So I still have a couple of things to get back to, plus R-Man's 7a+ traverse Bach. I'm off on Thursday morning, so I'll head out. Ot sure where yet though.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1517077893103611306?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Not according to plan (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/not-according-to-plan.html)
20 May 2010, 10:30 am
Days of rain- 52
Dry days- 86
It hasn't rained for ages, so I had quite a surprising morning. I'm on a 2-10 shift again, and I'd wanted to go to Woodwell. Unfortunately a crash shut down the M6 North and one look at the tailbacks had me going all the way round the roundabout and then heading East. I thought I'd have a look at Jumbles, mainly for the dyno project. When I got there I was greeted by a greasy looking crag. I put my hand on a vertical, featureless face and found my hand became wet. I'm not talking damp, I mean wet- water dripped from my hand when I shook it. This was the case everywhere, and it wasn't seepage it was water oozing from the rock everywhere. I went back to the car and thought of somewhere else to go.
Egerton. Broken Jokes is always dry, let's go there. I had to park further down the hill as they seem to be building another 3 houses at the top of the road. I snuck under the barbed wire, down the path to Broken Jokes- and it was wet. What the f**k? Exactly the same thing as Jumbles, running with water. With a feeling of despair I went to look at an old R-Man project round the corner. It was dry-ish, being in the open air, but a bit mucky and made of that greasy Lancs rock that always feels damp. After some brushing I managed to pull on the thing, get stood up. And then fall off. I think there's a crimp waaaay up there, and it'd involve a rock onto the right foot and a stretch. Unforunately, the undercut bust my right elbow and I had to stop trying. I now have font elbow, which is on fire and has reactivated my superficial radial nerve entrapment symptoms. Ball.
If these conditions had happened on a statue of Mary, it would be classed as a miracle and widely lauded as the crying statue. Occuring in grotty Lancs quarries, it won't get the same publicity but it's still a weird occurence.
WHat annoyed me most was that I actually paid to park at Jumbles this time. Arse.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5054067203210235362?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Scorchio!!! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/scorchio.html)
24 May 2010, 10:01 pm
It has been hot- too hot for me.
We has a busy weekend. Saturday it was Blob 2's birthday barbeque, then some friends stayed over and much alcohol was quaffed. Sunday I woke up a little worse for wear, so we went out to get the kids riding bikes without stabilisers. After a superb demonstration from one of her friends, Blob 1 made good progress. She was keeping goign well, but seems to like turning left. Looking at the video, LankyDad looks a tad silly but the borrowed cap was essential in th estrong Sun.
Jim suggested an evening boulder, but opted to leave it due to the heat. After work today Blob 2 had another cycle- cycling seems OK now, so next up is stopping and starting. Tomorrow I will try to get some bouldering done. Maybe.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6215178303874100650?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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In the words of Moony...... (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/in-words-of-moony.html)
25 May 2010, 1:24 pm
Days of rain- 52
Dry days- 91
.....DAMMIT!
I headed to Woodwell this morning, where I met Paul (Craven?) who was warming up there. He soon shot off to WoR so it was down to (unfinished) business.
Basically, I had a few goes and got to almost- holding the lip crimp. So I jumped up, put the camera on and got ready to crush. I nearly-held it again, then next go the heel/toe scraped my ankle and re-opened the Burbage South ankle gash, sending blood all over the place. And that was it, no more goes. I'm annoyed as I thought I'd get it today and I'm a little concerned the crimp will disappear before I can head back next week.
Screaming Slave felt greasy and I had no chance today. Sanctified Strong I did in 2 halves but never linked. I can get the good flatty OK but I end up doing it as a jump, and I'd rather keep my feet on during that move.
All in all, a sack of cack.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8950999825781060295?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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In the words of Moony..... (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/in-words-of-moony_26.html)
26 May 2010, 7:52 pm
Days of rain- 52
Dry days- 92
....should've done it that time. Admittedly it wasn't Moony that said it in Stick It, but the sentiment applies.
I had a surprise couple of hours free so I zoomed to Woodwell with some dressing to pad the ankle. Weak Sam was there already, and despite the drizzle the crag was pretty dry. As usual the banter was good, unfortunately conditions weren't.
Weak Sam suggested a crappy sloper intermediate for the BOBN move to the lip, and bugger me it works. It basically reduces the swing so that I can get the lip fairly statically. Awesome, I thought- but then I found I couldn't hang the lip edge to get the pocket. Balls. After numerous goes I still didn't manage it, my foot hurt like hell and skin was failing. So progress, but still no cigar. I hope with fresh fingers and less greasy conditions it'll go.
Incidentally, Weak Sam recently did the sit start to Texas Hold 'Em at Trowbarrow. He suggested a grade of 7b, with his usual smile. He wouldn't be drawn on it so I've added it to the Lancashire 7+8s (http://www.ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Lancashire_7s_and_8s) as 8a, although this may be a bit off. Good work as usual, and I'll be interested to see when he gets his CyL projects done. And thanks for the CurlyWurly, Weak Man.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8469818293930125574?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Too old for 3 days on (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/too-old-for-3-days-on.html)
27 May 2010, 9:27 pm
Days of rain- 52
Dry days- 93 (it rained a lot today but I managed to get out, so +1 to dry)
The BlobMinder was off today having teeth drilled or somesuch, and The Boss was working, so I had Blob 2. After we dropped Blob 1 off at school we headed North through the rain, avoiding the blocked M6 accident zone, to Woodwell. Screaming Blob meant we went via the service area to use the toilet, but finally arrived at the crag via the Trowbarrow yumping road, always a favourite. Except not with the Boss.
Despite the rain Tom's is hanging in there, still bone dry. But very greasy. I warmed up by brushing off more stupid tick marks, then I had a look at Sanctified Strong, getting it done in 3 goes today, although it was a bit of a faff as I couldn't get the heel to sit right until I moved my hand via a toe hook. I pulled on BOBN very briefly but the skin and weak fingers prevented any real try. So I did the easier stuff again, then we bumbled to the middle area.
H2O was slimy as hell, and conditions weren't great around NBD. I still can't work out where Dragon goes, but there were lots of ticks up the vague groove right od Not Bad Nige start. I didn't try it anyway. I had a few goes at Whistler Direct, which feels reasonable. I'd have had a few more goes but Blob 2 was getting cold, so we decamped to the cafe for her to get some hot chocolate. Then back home for some lunch.
Once the Boss arrived back, and Blob 1 had been to Rainbows and back, the sun was out and it was only 19:30. A plan hatched, and it was grudgingly accepted by The Boss. Ginnster was busy, he says he was decorating but I think that's some excuse. I went to Lower Montcliffe, hoping to try Dinosaur Adventure 3D in cooler temps as it's always felt heinous before now. I jumped straight on it and was pleasantly surprised to get it first try. Instantly, a brief downpour arrived but it was so short I was able to look at Bach.
I was with R-Man the day he did Bach and it felt hard then. Today was the first time I've been back. And it still felt hard. It's a traverse that uses 2 tiny pockets, and with my fat fingers I can only get the slightest fingertip into them. Today I was managing to tickle the crucial edge waaay out left, but pretty soon I had a deep cut in my left index finger, the tip going numb as well. So that was that, but it was getting towards twilight anyway.
So I've got a few busy days, but I'm off Monday as I start nights that night. Annoyingly, this is also a bank holiday so my usual advantage of having quiet crags will not apply. I may go somewhere different on Monday, then get BOBN nailed on Tuesday (assuming the hold is still there). Nemo helpfully tells me the move I can't do is piss easy. Cheers.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7341981061969154452?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bumbling around at Newbiggin (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/05/bumbling-around-at-newbiggin.html)
30 May 2010, 4:44 pm
Days of rain- 53
Dry days- 95
Yesterday I did some pull ups and hangs, also looking at trying to get the left shoulder a bit stronger. Today I had both Blobs but it seemed Ginnster and BeardyBeast were keen to get out, so Newbiggin was suggested as a child friendly (and non-busy Bank Holiday Weekend) venue.
So we arrived at 11:00, and BeardyBeast and miniBeast were already at the parking. We headed up to the Whiteout boulder and met up with Ginnster. Blobs were arranged on the mat whilst being given foodstuffs, which kept all 3 of them entertained whilst we had a clamber. BeardyBeast and I had a brief look at Whiteout Roof but without the block it was horrendous, I think you need to have fingers of steel and sideburns to match to crush that one. We did the other easier problems on the block, then Tom arrived (a fellow Pasty man it seems). After a while it was getting hot so we shifted over to The Fridge area.
BeardyBeast and I had a look at The Fridge. I'd had the idea of a lower start to this, but my memory was obviously defective as it basically adds a couple of cramped moves and the standard start is clearly the best. BeardyBeast crushed it using a bicycle footsqueeze after getting the higher edge. I was struggling to get the good hold, but then remembered the way I did it last time and finally latched it, managing not to fall off the rest. It's maybe 7a+ but it's quite morpho, and the first move is pretty reachy.
I did some child herding whilst The Ginnster and Tom looked at the problem right of Ingleborough wall, but avoiding the good hold round right. Ginnster took interesting falls from the mantel, in the style of a bag of sand dropped from a church tower. BeardyBeast was practising falling off of Slap Arete, so once kids were sitting in one spot I had a go. Initially it felt really hard, but then the heel squeeze I used last time came into play and BOOM it was in the bag. There was a question of a dab from the Meat and Potato crew, so I thought I'd try again. And just like Crash and Gurn I did it 3 in a row. I guess you either have 'it', or you don't.
I did the easier crack problems right of Ingleborough wall, then it was departing time. Ginnster and Tom were going to have a look at Farleton, via the stuff at the left end of Newbiggin. Both Blobs were asleep in the car pretty quickly, giving me the chance to eat their lollies- I love those Drumsticks, and besides: you snooze, you lose.
I was supposed to be going to see Slayer tonight, but when push comes to shove I can't be bothered. This was originally planned for 20th November 2009, but due to back issues Mr Araya couldn't do it. So it was reschedules to March 7th, then rescheduled to today. I was super psyched to go originally, but now noone else is going and getting into Manc and back on Sunday night is a total pain. It's not like I've never seen them before, so it's not a huge loss. Other than The Haunted are supporting, and I'd have liked to see them- really liked their stuff even from the At The Gates days. I must be getting old.
I think Ginnster got some footage, so I may blatantly steal it once it's online.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1399245485381365907?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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The Beauty Of Being Done (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/beauty-of-being-done.html)
2 June 2010, 12:54 pm
Days of rain- 54
Dry days- 97
After a weekend with the Blobs, Monday was spent..... with the Blobs. It's good to spend time with them, but we always seem to turn the house into a sh*t tip and then the Boss comes home and there's hell to pay. And who gets it in the neck? The Blobs that made the mess? Or LankyDad? Hmmmmm.
Anyway, I'm on nights this week, and Monday night wasn't too bad. I was therefore rather annoyed to find Tuesday was filled with precipitation. So The Boss took Blob 1 and I to see "Tooth Fairy", which was perfect as it mindless child entertainment and I didn't need to think. After that it dried up and I was tempted to risk Woodwell, but instead I opted to spend time with the family (gain Brownie points) so we went to Pizza Hut then to look at new cars for the Boss.
Last night was busy-ish, but today dawned dry and bright so I had to get out. After a brief trip home for some Cocoa Pops and to collect my kit, I was off to Woodwell. Unfinished business. I warmed up repeating Sanctified, then moved left a few feet. I was pleased to see the BOBN hold was still there. I pulled on and got to the lip first attempt. It was all going to pivot on the move to the pocket. I tried the move from LH lip, RH crimp but never stuck it. So why bother, let's just go for it!
After missing the pocket several times I noted my left foot lock was slipping so I swapped from the Booster to the trusty old Verde. The sock was still on to protect the ankle wound, as ther's enough blood on this problem already. First go in Verdes was close, but no cigar. Second go I hit the pocket but my feet came off. Despite a slight bramble dab, I held it and finished the thing off. I first tried this many moons ago, and had 3 or 4 goes intermittently since. Since working it, it's been baking my noddle so to get it done is a huge relief. Although, there's going to be something else to work at.
I had a few goes at Screaming Slave and nearly held the lip. Then I exploded off the Nothing To Say Dyno, which was a sign to go home. Which I duly did. Working again tonight, so there's potential to get out tomorrow. I've no idea where, as the forecat is for hot weather. I suppose there's still Poison waiting for me.
The Beauty Of Being Numb (http://vimeo.com/12232044) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1450739334506979682?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Fun looking problem, but what the hell is going on with your pockets? :shrug:
Crag fashion FAIL!
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Magic bottomless pockets. I can put as much as I want in them and they never fill up.
I don't think I own a pair of trousers for bouldering that remain in one piece.
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The worst day for grit? (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/worst-day-for-grit.html)
4 June 2010, 10:09 pm
Days of rain- 54
Dry days- 99
I had a busy night last night, travelling around the North West. Today dawned clear and bright, and true to form it was going to be warm. I knew the Lime was the way to go, but I couldn't be bothered failing on the Pit Problem or similar today- I fancied something different.
Wimberry is a venue I've only been to twice, both times it was hot hot hot and I didn't do a lot. I wondered if it'd be viable for today as it can catch a breeze. I texted the BeardyBeast and Jim. Jim replied promptly to say he was away, so I set the SatNav and headed out.
I was at the parking by 11:00 and it was already pretty busy, lots of folks taking the opportunity to paddle in the reservoir and bask in the sun. I paid my £1.40 for parking (it's actually £1.30 but the bastard machine doesn't give change) and set my sights for the Fish boulder. Within minutes it became obvious it was hot. The walk in to the Fish near killed me, and I had to sit down in the shade and drink a litre of water before doing anything else.
After a while I had a look at Fish Arete, which appeared to be made of butter and after a few pretty poor attempts I moved round to look at teh 6b+ right of Dark Matter (aka Ego). It was so hot and greasy I couldn't hold the slopers, and I rapidly lost skin. Retreat! Back to Fish Arete, which was the main problem I wanted to get done. After several more goes I managed to get my toe hook to work and caught the higher butter knob on the arete. Flail flail struggle struggle and I was on top. It felt tough for the grade today, but that was completely due to the fact I was sliming off every hold I used.
I had a 2 minute look at the Coarse Traverse, which seemed OK, then wandered to the Groove boulder. I did the Groove after a couple of goes, although my left wrist didn't seem to like it. Then I looked at the 7a up the flakes on the Shell Shot. I made quick progress on this, until it became clear that the higher flakes flex noticably when weighted. I opted to leave them be and went to the Tank.
By this time I was physically exhausted by the heat, so I did a few of the easy problems on the Tank then lay around for a bit before heading for home. Tonight has involved frenzied packing of bags for our little package tour. To be honest I'm a little nervous as the forecast for Tunisia suggests mid 30 degree heat. I may not come back alive. I am going to try to take the opportunity to send the HV20 off for repair, but I'll nedd to run around tomorrow to get it posted. Then hopefully it'll be back when we return, back to its proper glory.
So here's the highlights (?) of today. I suggest you rub some olive oil into your hands and then sit in the airing cupboard to get the feel for the day.
Wimberry Heatwave (http://vimeo.com/12303858) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5479730088959412608?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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The Weakling Returns (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/weakling-returns.html)
15 June 2010, 10:31 am
Days of rain- 57
Dry days- 107
After a week spent at an all inclusive hotel in Tunisia, I am a lot heavier and feel rather weak. I'm working 2-10 today so I went to Wilton 3. To cut to the chase it was very hot, and I failed to do anything. Local Knowledge felt pretty committing, R-man's new things were scrittly and greasy and after half an hour I gave it up as a bad job. Same shift tomorrow, so here's hoping for a better session.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6673300745715617793?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Too hot for fatty (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/too-hot-for-fatty.html)
16 June 2010, 11:01 am
Days of rain- 57
Dry days- 108
Another 2-10 shift, another moring crag session. Longridge today and it was scorching at 10am. Basically I greased off everything, although I felt a little more solid as I fell off of Big Marine (whatever that means). I am becoming fairly sure that this is one problem I just can't do. Catching the pocket just doesn't happen, ever, and any number of clever feet positions make any difference. I guess it's just about my weak left shoulder, but I've had f@*k knows how many sessions on the thing with no progress at all. Anyway, I only lasted an hour sweating in the heat and falling off traverses before I retreated back home.
I've had an e-mail from Canon to say the repair of the camcorder is underway and will be £153. Oh well, not much can be done about it. Hopefully I will have it back soon to make more shite videos.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5104457809261326602?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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although I felt a little more solid as I fell off of Big Marine (whatever that means).
You hit the ground with a louder thud? :shrug:
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No, hands and feet felt much better. Until I tried the move which gave the usual result.
Although after the all-inclusive-Tunisian-weight-gain, I'm surprised you didn't feel the ground shake each fall.
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When you visiting the Lakes next oh Lankyeth one?
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Not sure, but I shall drop you a PM when I intend to head up. Generally it's a week day as that's the only time I get a full day free.
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Too hot for fatty (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/too-hot-for-fatty.html)
16 June 2010, 11:01 am
Catching the pocket just doesn't happen, ever, and any number of clever feet positions make any difference.
height=1]https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5104457809261326602?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com[/img]
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
After taking the L shaped hold with your left, have you tried a heel in the right side of the finger rail or are you too tall for that? If you can make it work it really locks you in so you can work your fingers in to the best position.
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Too tall for that. I have tried it before, but the last time my LH popped and I landed on my head. Not tried that way since.
I think the issue is I struggle to hold the sloper/pinch due to my left shoulder instability. And being fat and weak.
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Nice one. May be able to sneak off from work for an afternoon so defo let me know.
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Stronstrey Evening (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/stronstrey-evening.html)
17 June 2010, 8:47 pm
Days of rain- 57
Dry days- 109
Tonight I managed to get a pass, so met up with the Ginnster at White Coppice about 6pm. We wandered up to Stronstrey past all of the cricket spectators, and headed to Escaping Jam to escape the sun. We did my traverse, Spanners, first. It felt more straightforward this time, and the Ginnster used an easier sequence on the first hard bit, so the 6b grade may not be 100% accurate. I did the Tony Bland variations, which felt harder today than I remember. I managed Cackhanded Compliment once I remembered how, then failed a few times on Escaping Jam which the Ginnster crushed in good style.
Then we moved over to the Handle block, from where David Vetter looked as good as before- still pretty pleased with that one! Ginnster and I both did Love Handle, then I shook my way up Phat Haendel. To be honest it was all in the direct sun so it all felt pretty tricky. Then we headed down and had a play on the eliminates on the Wurzel Gummidge wall. It was still pretty hot, so after a while we sat down in the sun with a can of lager and watched the sun/cricket/Blackpool Tower.
Tomorrow I may escape a little early, but I'll have to wait and see. No idea where to go if I do, going to be hot again.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5590969366595179955?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Progress, or something like it (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/progress-or-something-like-it.html)
20 June 2010, 8:41 pm
Days of rain- 57
Dry days- 112
I didn't get to go out on Friday in the end. So today I'd arranged to head to Silverdale with BeardyBeast. He arrived with MiniBeast in tow about 10:30, and after a Toys R Us visit for them to get footy stuff, we went to Woodwell. There were a couple of guys there already. One was trying BOBN and failing on the move to the pocket- I'm glad it isn't just me. I'm not sure if it was the arrival of BeardyBeast, MiniBeast, Blob 2 and myself but they left after a bit.
Basically, I got a lot closer to holding the lip on Screaming Slave, mainly by using 4 fingers on the sloing edge rather than 3 and a squeeze. BeardyBeast looked pretty good on AOSD, getting close to the dyno at the end- just the match in the roof to sort, and I reckon he'll be in there.
We moved to the middle section and failed to do much with Tree Root and Griddle Groove Tourist Tick. Whistler Direct put up a decent defence, seeing us both fail on the last move. BeardyBeast had a look at Rigpa, flashing it to the base of the groove and declaring it easy. The groove was dirty so he didn't finish but it makes me wonder if we've got the wrong line. After this I had a look at Not Bad Dave sitter, and by using a hold for my left foot 3 inches left of usual I managed to get on it much better. I got as far as the move to the LH sidepull before the flatty so that's decent prgress, although I am aware the hard bit is still to come. At this point the Boss and Blob 1 arrived and we headed for a cream tea. Unfortunately they were out of scones, a punterish mistake if there ever was one.
Tomorrow I start at 13:00 so I may head out for a bit in the morning, maybe Jumbles but I'm not sure yet. Too much to do, and not enough power.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-80376688114581094?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Fumbles in the Jumbles (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/fumbles-in-jumbles.html)
21 June 2010, 5:20 pm
Days of rain- 57
Dry days- 113
I had a couple of spare hours this morning, which I thought I'd spend at Jumbles. It was all very greasy today. I had a look at Sit Thee Down, one of R-Man's 7a problems. I really struggled with this, partly due to grease and partly due to not being able to use R-Man's sequence. I was pulling on and getting a fair (but greasy) LH crimp, then failing to get anywhere with it. Felt hard to me today.
I then moved a few feet left to my project dyno. Today I was getting pads over the hold, so it'll definitely go. I still think font 7b, definitely as hard as other 7b dynos I've done. Be a cool addition if I even land the thing.
Then I looked at a crimpfest through a low overlap, I'm not sure if this has been done- may be Lollythingy- but failed due to sliming off the thins and having to leave for work. So that was that. At least I didn't pay for parking today- the machine was out of order.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2588142158289195474?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Not So Mighty Mouse (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/not-so-mighty-mouse.html)
22 June 2010, 7:57 pm
Days of rain- 57
Dry days- 114
I had my review for post 4 on this rotation at 2pm, so after this I was free. Cadshaw is a place I've visited twice, once to the small quarry and once when I did Brian Jacques. Mighty Mouse is a 7a+ of R-Man's which I've not tried, so that was today's aim.
It was not to be, it was very hot and the footholds appeared to be very soft. After pulling on once, the footholds were crumbling so I left it until I get the chance to stabilise things (plus it felt really really hard). I noticed a line that (as far as I know) is unclimbed, just right of Brian Jacques. A sitter as for BJ, then a weird diagonal dyno to a jug on the right arete with a crimpy wall to finish. I tried the top bit, after giving it a scrub, and after a few goes managed it. It's a French start to the jug on the arete, then a tenuous rock over left to a crimp. Then a LH snatch to a good edge, and then a big jug. I'd suggest about font 6b.
I tried to link it from the sitter, and failed on the dyno to the jug every try. It's a funny one, decent hold to catch but it's sharp and there's a huge swing to control. I think it's be in the 7b ballpark, but a cool problem- mad move. I may need to head back soon.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3723832866384986218?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Still hot (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/still-hot.html)
24 June 2010, 8:53 pm
Days of rain- 57
Dry days- 116
After work I met up with the Ginnster at Widdop. It's still far too warm for the grit, but Widdop is a nice place for a chilled session. I did the usual warm ups- Red Edges, Easy arete opposite, Scoop problems. Then I pointed the Ginnster at Grupmy Old Men, an excellent 6b/+ that doesn't see much attention as it's a 2 minute walk from the main boulders.
I did it after a couple of false starts, using a far better sequence than my old method of slapping again with the right hand to the top. The Ginnster should have done it, and basically fell off the jug that marks the end of the hard bit. It cost him skin, but I reckon he'll get it done next time.
After this I did Splashdown and The Ginnster got very close, shedding more skin, and this is another one he'll get done soon. By this time it was clear not much else would get done, being greasy as hell and skin getting thin. I did the Red Edge Traverse, Red Edge Right one handed and without the arete and finally the easier version of the Four Square sitstart. And then it was time to run away- Midge Death had engulfed us.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1289696731886395590?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Cobbled (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/cobbled.html)
28 June 2010, 10:04 pm
Days of rain- 57
Dry days- 120
After a crap weekend at work (and an utterly woeful thrashing for our national footy team) I was off today. The Bowderstone was the intended destination, I was hoping it would be a good bet in the heat and Picnic Sarcastic is one of my aims for 2010. Plus Golt had said he could meet up there.
I was there quite early and I did the Rib a few times to warm up. First up was Picnic Sarcastic. Pretty quickly I was getting to the move that has foiled me on the other 2 times I've been there: the move to the high right hand sidepull. I tried various feet, but it wasn't to be. After this I failed to get anywhere on Move Man, and Statstick (although I wasn't using the left hand dink as an intermediate, and my left heel wouldn't stay put). A few goes on Power Pinch and it was clear I was going to get nowhere, so I opted to leave. I said bye to the guy that had been trying LG for the whole time I was there, and headed to the car.
Golt was in the parking so we had a chat and I moaned about being spanked at the hands of the Cobble. Nice to meet at last. I decided to risk a Carrock Fell visit, even though I didn't have the guide. Once there, I did a cruise past looking at the boulders- I recognised Punk Life which is something I was keen to try. After 10 minutes bashing through the vegetation I was there. It was out of the sun, and unfortunately out of the wind. As I put my boots on the sky went dark, a cloud of midges descending around me- needless to say I beat a retreat. I ended up at the Ground Force boulder. I did a sitter on the left end which was quite cool. After getting home it gets 7a in the guide, but I assume lanking a right hand undercut to start was wrong- I'll assume I did the 6b+ by accident. By this time it was hometime, to pick up the Blobs. On the way home it started to rain, and it hasn't stopped since- a return to the usual UK weather?
My hair's been rather unruly recently so The Boss razed it for me. With my shirt off I passed a mirror and noted that I have developed a massive gut- I partly blame Tunisia, but I hadn't realised before that I was getting this chunky. I seem to be sitting at 87-88kg for the last couple of weeks, which is 4-5kg more than a few months ago. This would seem to fir with the developing pattern of miserable failure at any vaguely steep venue. All these revelations spurred me to go for a run- I opted for the gentle entry by doing the 5.8km cross country route. I had to walk up the last mud slope but I managed 33 and a bit minutes, a few minutes below May last year but it's been a while. The upshot is going to be a diet after the World Cup (beeer, mmmmmmm) and more aerobic exercise. Maybe.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3615960960570776476?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Jumbles again (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/jumbles-again.html)
29 June 2010, 9:44 pm
Days of rain- 57
Dry days- 121
Internet at home down, so I'll update the blog properly soon.
Jumbles: should have done dyno. Made progress on Crescent project. Did sit thee down.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8754579381005132597?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Sit Thee Down (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/06/sit-thee-down.html)
30 June 2010, 11:04 am
Thanks go to the nice man at TalkTalk who efficiently diagnosed that the LAN port was u/s on my router. Courtesy of LAN2, I am back online.
Here's that video:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4948740997300317251?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Progress on the Crescent (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/progres-on-crescent.html)
2 July 2010, 3:15 pm
Days of rain- 59
Dry days- 122
I managed to nip out of work and grab an hour at Jumbles. Unfortunately, it was pretty damp/ wet after the recent rain. It clearly takes a couple of days to dry. Clown's wall was soaking wet, so the Dyno project was out. So I turned the attention back to the Crescent Project.
It was damp too, but a good towelling and brush made it a bit better. I basically got one go at it, then towel and chalk again. Then repeat. I did the first hard move, to the left hand high sidepull on the Crescent. This was because I was half knee barring as I was falling off, thus stopping the barn door. Then I was getting the high crimp, but sliming off. I'm sure I can do this, I'd agree with the proposed 7b. And there's potential for a sit start too......
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3092111453969742005?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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The Crescent of Embrace (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/crescent-of-embrace.html)
3 July 2010, 9:32 pm
Days of rain- 59
Dry days- 123
Last night was a works night out to the Dogs at Bell View. Beer was drunk, let's not extrapolate. Anyway, it took until late afternoon for me to feel well again. After tea I negotiated a pass out, and headed back for retribution.
I arrived at gone 7, and there were loads of cars parked near the barrier, so I assumed the crag would be stowed out. It wasn't, I was on my own. The place was dry, but with the usual greasiness. I got on the Crescent project, and made some progress. After half a dozen goes I was pretty close to latching the high edge. The secret is turning from a layback position to a face on, whilst letting your right hip float out so it comes around the overlap. Very specific.
After many failed goes I finally managed to nail the stand up, although I started from LH low sidepull and RH on the bottom of the crescent. This is well within my reach, so it's legit, however I had envisaged it starting from the low edges so I'll coe back when the camera is fixed and do it from the "proper" start. My skin was too smashed, and the midges too hungry, for any more goes at the lower start. But then there's the sitter....
Now my skin has holes in it. I should be pleased to get another project done, but the stupidity of an obvious start bugs me. I want to add the extra move and link it all together. Why? I don't know, I just do- personal goals, I think a lot of climbing revolve around that point. I think the issue lies with what I had planned, and the way it came to pass. One easy move. A lock from a good sidepull to latch a crappy crimp. It adds minimal difficulty, so why would it matter? It just does, I suppose.
On a lighter note, Mad Props to BonJoy and OldTownGirl for having the desire to go out and climb stuff: yes, I know the grades are awesome too, but that's only part of the tale.
Here's a shit video of the new problem. It's pretty duff as I can't get The Boss' camera to do what I want. Bring back the HV20. You get the idea anyway. The RH crimp I miss at the end marks the end of all the difficulties. I also did the same problem via a jump start to the high crimp- Flight 93, font 7a.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8262324248856730651?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Brownstones In The Rain (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/brownstones-in-rain.html)
4 July 2010, 6:50 pm
Days of rain- 60
Dry days- 123
I had the Blobs today as the Boss was working. The Ginnster had mentioned he may head to Widdop, but by lunchtime it was drizzling on and off so a meet at Brownstones was agreed upon. When the Blobs and I arrived, The Ginnster was sitting glumly under a damp Pond Traverse. As it was all wet I said I'd show him the numbers for Pigswill, one of his aims for the year, so he left his mat and we wandered up to the top end.
The Nexus wall was dry, so The Ginnster went back for his mat only to find it had gone. With the Blobs present he was very restrained and managed to avoid any blue language. The Blobs ran around like nutters whilst we did a few eliminates on the Nexus wall above my old towel, whilst the intermittent drizzle continued.
Someone has posted on UKC about a found mat, so The Ginnster's luck is in. Still amazed it went so quickly.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3320287953396911932?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Project: Failure (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/days-of-rain-60-dry-days-125-it-seems.html)
6 July 2010, 10:53 am
Days of rain- 60
Dry days- 125
Weight- 88.4kg
It seems The Ginnster has been self harming (http://rginns.blogspot.com/2010/07/hospital.html), so he may be out for a couple of weeks. You'll notice that I'm pretty much the heaviest I've ever been- action will need to be taken.
Another 2-10 shift meant I was free this morning. I had to get the Blobs out, so in the end I didn't end up going to Silverdale as intended. I wandered to Healey Nab to see if I could put another of my projects to bed.
I did the usual warm ups. Coolboy Slap remains one of my favourite esoteric Lancs problems, despite the venue. I had a go at my line, it felt very hard today. I wasn't really getting close to the hold you slap to in an out-of-control manner. I noticed the arete right of Old Route which I've never really looked at. It's a Trackside style thing. Initially a slap to the arete from matched on the greasy sloper. Then left hheel next to left hand and rock rock rock. The landing isn't great but with 2 pads I may have a proper go. So no projects ticked and one gained, not a good ratio! I should be able to get out tomorrow night, have to have a think where to.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8981741655669904288?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Exploration (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/exploration.html)
7 July 2010, 8:57 pm
Days of rain- 60
Dry days- 126
Yesterday I went into work for 2pm, only to find my clinic was cancelled. Effectively, I could have had a whole day out bouldering and gone to work at 5- all fine in retrospect. Instead I popped home and did my 5.8km run, knocking a minute and a half off the previous time and only having to walk up the mud slope itself. To add to the fun the BlobMinder has given notice so there's all that stuff to sort out. Great.
BeardyBeast and I had planned to go to Jumbles tonight, but it rained overnight last night until lunch today. We decided that Jumbles would be wet and miserable, so opted to have a wander to Stronstrey instead. BeardyBeast had a couple of lines to look at and I was happy to hold his rope and get some fresh air.
First up was Beardy's Wall project, which he made fair progress on until the holds disappear close to the easy finish. After a while he declared it "impossible" and shifted right to look at Beardy's Arete. First up he started up Love Handle, then up the slab/aretes left of Stopgap, which he top roped fairly easily. Possibly E1 or something, he didn't comment as he had his eyes on the line to the left. This proved to involve a sequence of hard moves, which he linked other than the 2 stopper moves. It's quite a cool line, and he appeared keen to return. You'd probably be looking at E7 depending how hard the last couple of moves turn out to be. Then we wandered back down. Nice sunset again.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-793041849333887594?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Brownstones and dark skies (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/brownstones-and-dark-skies.html)
10 July 2010, 9:39 pm
Days of rain- 61
Dry days- 127
This morning the Boss took the Blobs swimming whilst I stayed at home and awaited he man from AutoGlass. The windscreen is now fixed so it's just the air conditioning to sort before Font.
The weather looked pretty poor all day so I wasn't sure if I'd get out. After tea I nipped to Brownstones. It was hot, and I was surprised that noone else was there. I did all the usual warm ups, then Pigswill and Nexus Dyno. Hank's felt hard, especially with my vital foothold becoming smaller everytime I go. I managed Lancashire PotHot with the remains of the flake, and without matching, probably 7a+ still.
After doing a fair bit of traversing, the biting flies came out so I left at 8:30. As I was driving home it started to rain, which made me smile at my timing.
Video to follow once my home Internet decides to stop playing up.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1366019369467565156?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Various Random Wafflings (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/various-random-wafflings.html)
12 July 2010, 8:59 am
Days of rain- 62
Dry days- 128
Well, last week I decided to commence the new regime. No alcohol from Monday to Friday, and 3 (admittedly quite large) glasses of wine on Saturday and Sunday with the footy etc. I've also been out running twice, so that's 11.6km which I think is OK as I haven't been for over a year. I've also been dozing off on the sofa at 10 at night which is a bit unusual for me.
Nearly everything is arranged for the Font trip now, still need to get the car's air con sorted and book EuroDisney to keep Boss and Blobs happy. I've been looking at making up a to-do list of problems, but there's so many I want to try I've given up on that. There's a couple of things from Easter I want to get back on and finish off too. The unspoken aim (until now) is to get 10 problems done at 7a or above, although considering Easter's performance I'll be amazed if this happens.
So I'm in a bit of a pre-Font zone at the moment- my right middle finger still has a blister from The Crescent of Embrace, and I'd like that to settle before the trip. I don't want to do anything silly as I want to have some skin- 2 weeks in Font is bound to beast my skin and elbows. So fitness is the aim at present.
The Ginnster had a run up Winter Hill, a route I've always planned to have a crack at, so I may try to get up there this week. Hopefully with the reduced alcohol and increased exercise I can drop a few pounds before I go, for whatever gain it will bring. Then after Font I'll be in the new job, so I'm not sure how often I'll be able to get out.
On a positive note, I spoke to Canon this morning and they have fixed the HV20 and it will be back to me this week. So you can all look forward to some nice vids from Font. Aren't you a lucky lot?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2134214996266872455?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Winter Hill- Part 1 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/winter-hill-part-1.html)
12 July 2010, 9:23 pm
The Boss was back a bit early from work, so I thought I'd better try the Winter Hill run. I parked up at Brownstones and ran up behind the quarry, then up Coal Pit Road and then across the moors.
I went at stealth pace initially, and was quite pleased that I ran all the way to the mast without walking at all. I think this was mainly as I wasn't pushing it too mush. Under 25 minutes to the mast, then 20 minutes back to the car- managed up and down in 45:10 which is good enough for now. Looking at the map etc it's 7.2kmh, so average is still under 10kmh.
After this I warmed down by wandering around Brownstones, where I met Darren (Wilton Warrior) and another guy I think was called Steven. We had a chat whilst being eaten by midges. The lowest bucket on Obscenity is wobbly, so be careful hauling on it or you may get a quick descent.
So now I'm home, time for a cup of tea. Gotta love this new regime.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8678845147986305456?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Il pleut (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/il-pleut.html)
13 July 2010, 9:39 pm
Days of rain- 63
Dry days- 128
Today the HV 20 arrived back, I am most pleased. It seems to have had a fair bit done to it according to ther invoice:
Replaced main circuit board, LCD, backlight and printed drive circuit board. Set up. Replaced flex connector and front cover ASY. Cleaned.
Cleaning- body parts, viewfinder system. Replace body parts, electrical components, PCB
It seems to work fine, and it looks nice and clean. I'm just very glad to get it back for Font.
Tonight I was going to go out to Longridge, but the rain began at 6ish and it didn't stop. After the Blobs were in bed, I headed to Wet Poo adn found TanMan and Weak Sam were already there. I managed to do most of the sub-V6 stuff fairly easily, bar a coupe of nasties. Then I failed on all the V6 stuff. Weak Sam commented I was looking fat, cheers for that. But then, it's early days of the regime and I wouldn't fancy his suggested chemical slimming plan.
My skin got pretty sore after a while, not helped by the hot and sweaty conditions. I did more of the easy stuff, then left just before closing- still raining. So another alcohol free night, cup of tea and then bed I guess. Maybe I should start posting on the UKB power club, although I never feel like I get anything done. I'll try to get out running tomorrow.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1672204105108947358?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Cadshaw plodding (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/cadshaw-plodding.html)
14 July 2010, 2:30 pm
Days of rain- 64
Dry days- 128
It's thundering and very wet. I've just got back from Cadshaw where I went for a run in the rain. The Ginnster had suggested an 8km route, which sounded OK. I took the rucksack again and went along the path past the Little Quarry, then Red Wall, switchback down to the reservoir and the wooden bridge over the river.. I went slightly wrong here going up and over a hill rather than following the reservoir bank. Then I went the wrong way and wasted 3 minutes or so. I felt quite good all the way around the reservoir, but when I got back to the wooden bridge I cut off left through the trees on a little path. I thought this was the route the Ginnster had proposed, but now I'm back I see he'd planned to go back the same way.
The path through the trees was wet, muddy and made of slimy rocks. I ended up walkng for a bit but I was soon back at the main track so ran back to the car. 38:05, but you can knock off at least 3 minutes for the detours. Works out as 6.4km, a fair bit shorted than Ginnster's route, and with 130m of ascent/descent. I actually think the extra distance would be worth it to avoid the difficult path.
So another day on the regime. Start as you mean to go on I suppose.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4741080871472042220?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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WoB (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/wob.html)
15 July 2010, 10:14 pm
Days of rain- 65
Dry days- 128
Strong winds and heavy rain today. I've just been over to BeardyBeast's for a go on the Wall of Burl. Needless to say I managed to get to the top a few times, on the easiest problems. It was worthwhile though as I managed a few moves that initially felt hard. Definitely poor on the footwork though, and it maintains that steepness is my weakness.
On the way home the weather was atrocious, with fallen tree branches on the roads around here. I just hope it's dry when we go to Font.
Tomorrow is the Boss' graduation, then I'm on nights this weekend so I doubt I'll get a lot done. I may try to get out running over the weekend, depending on sleep requirements that is. I think it's going to be sensible avoiding anything tweaky from now on, at least until Font is over.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-94952580112952225?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Winter Hill- Part 2 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/winter-hill-ii.html)
17 July 2010, 11:32 am
Days of rain- 67
Dry days- 128
The Boss' graduation went OK yesterday, and after a meal out I had to rush off to work for the first of 3 night shifts. I'd suggested a Winter Hill rematch to the Ginnster, but this morning I was shattered and it was raining pretty hard. Add to this his attendance at his coiffeur and things didn't look great.
I managed to motivate myself and parked up at Brownstones at 10:30, watching the rain. The Ginnster arrived shortly afterwards and we had a jog upwards. We did OK, other than Ginnster getting a stitch in his side to add to the several in his palm. This meant we did a bit of walking on the way up, and got to the mast in 27:53. Heading down was a bit quicker but the Ginnster still appeared to be in pain- back at the car with a total time of 48:23.
Considering everything I'm not at all unhappy with that. I felt pretty good when running and I'm pretty please to have got out at all as post nights motivation is usually low. This week I've done 20.8km with 590 of ascent, in a total of 2hrs 8:38 and whilst I acknowledge in world terms it's crap, but it's a step in the right direction.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3904959633142424891?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Cadshaw Pasty Edition (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/cadshaw-pasty-edition.html)
18 July 2010, 10:44 am
Days of rain- 68
Dry days- 128
After another night shift, motivation was low. I invited the Ginnster to come out but there was no reply, so I reckon he was overawed by yesterday's spectacle (or maybe he didn't get the text before I went out).
I opted for the full Ginnster Cadshaw route. It was totally pissing down when I arived, and it didn't stop at all during the run. This wasn't that easy today as there was a lot of deep standing water which I had to keep dodging around, breaking my stride and becoming tiring, and nevertheless I was utterly drenched after 10 minutes anyway. I managed to get round the whole route without stopping running, and was please to manage 7.7km with 160m of ascent in 41:13.
Totals this week:
28.5km
750m ascent
2hrs 49:51 (average of 10.07km/h)
2 (large) glasses red wine
2.5 pints Guinness
1 Gin and tonic
Weight? I think I'll start doing weigh ins first thing on a Monday morning, in a vain attempt to get an accurate measure of weight loss.
Last night shift (ever?) tonight, and then off tomorrow and Tuesday. Not sure what will be dry after all this rain and I've got Blob 2 in tow anyway. May just drag her up a hill in the rain instead. Only time will tell.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-626965446839287996?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rain, Scones, and West View (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/rain-scones-and-west-view.html)
19 July 2010, 9:17 pm
Days of rain- 69
Dry days- 128
After finishing my last night I picked up Blob 2 and we headed to Silverdale. It rained on the way up so it was more of a fresh air expedition and a recce to see how much the crag was seeping than anything else. Blob 2 fell asleep on the way so I had half an hour watching the rain whilst sitting in the Woodwell parking.
Once awake, we wandered down to Tom's which was drenched, and worse it was seeping in a lot of places. We went towards Anesthesia, then up to the top of the crag and back along to Not Bad Dave. I got bitten by mosquitos all the way there, and wasn't surprised to find that NBD was also gopping. I reckon it'll take quite a number of days of dry weather to get back into decent shape.
It was getting towards lunch so we went to the cafe, and sat outside under a parasol and watched the rain.
Tonight the rain continued, so once the Boss got back from work I headed to West View. BeardyBeast was busy, TanMan was over at Kilnsey (is it still dry?) and GasMan was at work. Weak Sam was there when I arrived, so we had a chat before he left. He'd scoped out Tom's today and agreed with the grim outlook.
I did all but 3 of the problems below V6, and fell off the last move of a few V6-7s too. My skin was getting sore as usual, but I managed 2 hours then left at 10pm. Hopefully I'll get out for a run tomorrow, maybe Winter Hill again. It'll depend when the Boss gets back.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5006228216887804105?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Blisters (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/blisters.html)
21 July 2010, 9:44 am
Days of rain- 73
Dry days- 129
On Monday night I had 2 G+Ts and 3 glasses of wine whilst watching Mongrels on iPlayer, to celebrate the finish of night shifts. I think my new low alcohol intake has reduced my tolerance, as I felt a bit grotty on Tuesday morning. I took the car to the garage to check the aircon before Font, and I need to take it back on Friday to have a sensor replaced. After this I collected Blob 2 from Nana's and we headed home.
It rained all afternoon, but around 3 there was an almighty downpour. The gutters were overwhelmed and the garden was at least an inch deep in water. When we went to collect Blob 1 from school I ended up carrying them both through 2" deep water back to the car. Needless to say my trainers were soaked, and I'd only just managed to dry them after Cadshaw.
Today dawned a bit drier, still drizzle though. Another 2-10 shift meant I headed to Brownstones for another Winter Hill assault. On the way up I felt heavy legged, and the path was a bog (at least my trainers were wet already I suppose). I got to the mast without walking at all, in 25:28. The last bit up the hill had been through rain and low clag, but the sun came out as I turned around and it got pretty hot. I was down in 19:07, making a total of 44:36 which is better but still a way off the 10km/h target of 43:12. Something to work on I suppose. Got a couple of blisters from wet shoes though.
So now I need to get some shopping and then head into work. I need to get out another couple of times this week, have to see if the Pastry King is around. I just hope it rains less than it has recently.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8572243673774107142?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Freeze Thaw strikes again (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/days-of-rain-71-dry-days-129-it-rained.html)
22 July 2010, 8:34 pm
Days of rain- 73
Dry days- 130
It rained this morning, but it stopped around lunchtime. After going to a friend's for her birthday, we all came hme then I zipped out to Brownstones. The first thing I noted was a big chunk had come off of the start to Alana/ Haskitt. It makes the starting sidepull a lot bigger, and provides a large foothold when higher up. Shame really.
I did Alana as of old, using the hold as was. Then a bunch of the usual problems- Pigswill, low traverse from Haskitt linked into low Ash Pit Traverse, Parr's from a sitter, Layback, etc etc. By this point I was being well and truly midged so I ran away. May go out for a run tomorrow evening, I think the Ginnster is keen to get out too.
Broken Alana hold:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3724548092848758461?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Old Man's Knees (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/old-mans-knees.html)
23 July 2010, 6:50 pm
Days of rain- 73
Dry days- 131
Last night I had 3 glasses of wine. Today I had agreed to meet up with the Ginnster at half 5. I had to take the car in to get the climate control fixed, and they finished at 16:15 so I headed over to Brownstones to kill some time. I did Lancashire PotHot again, filmed with the HV20. This time I stretched straight from the gaston to the jug, rather than the crimp continuation. After that I did the low traverse from Haskitt to left of Unjust again, getting easier each time- mey need a downgrade?
I didn't have long there, then I had to scoot to meet the Clumsy Pastry King over at Cadshaw. It was hot, but at least it was a lot drier underfoot. The Ginnster set off at a rate of knots, but I had to stick to my usual pace. My knees were killing all the way around, residual aching from the efforts coming back down Winter Hill I think. The Ginnster developed a stitch half way round so we eased off the pace a little, but we managed to get all the way round at a run. I did it in 40:27, The Ginnster not far behind after slowing slightly in the home stretch. Quite pleased really, 46 seconds quicker but I felt like I could go a bit quicker. Maybe sub-40 minutes should be a target along with the 10km/h Winter Hill target.
I think I'll have a bit of wine tonight, but I need to head out running again in the next 48 hours to get the distance up a bit. Hopefully my knees will stop aching soon.
Oh, and Jon Venables got sent down for 2 years for all the child pr0n he's been collecting/ distributing. It's unfair to take into account previous offences apparently. I shall say no more.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6385460245787235916?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rain, sore knees, and charcoal briquettes (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/rain-sore-knees-and-charcoal-briquettes.html)
24 July 2010, 6:33 pm
Days of rain- 74
Dry days- 131
I had a couple of glasses of wine since I'd been so good in the day. This morning we went to the Blobs' swimming classes, then into Prestonia and bought The Boss some boots- lovely pink Boreal Lunas. So no excuses for the Font trip!
We went to a barbeque at a friends, in the rain. We nipped into Halfords on the way home and discovered they didn't have any light deflectors. Awesome. Once back home and Blobs in bed, I went on my 5.8km run from the house. I took it quite a bit easier than usual, partly as my knees are killing, partly as it was pi**ing it down, and partly because I wanted to go the whole way without having to stop running. I succeeded in this aim, and came home in a time of 33:02. It's a minute and a bit off the best ever, but I still felt quite good and I reckon the 30 minute target may be possible. Not easy though.
As an aside I'd noticed the days count was out, and I've found a couple of arithmetic errors in March which I've now corrected. All in the name of SCIENCE.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-780361323163926283?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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40 minutes warning (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/40-minutes-warning.html)
26 July 2010, 6:15 pm
Days of rain- 76
Dry days- 131
Drank some wine with Top Gear last night. Posting on the UKB Power club thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15620.msg271963.html#msg271963) again, and as you'll see the Monday weigh in was 85.5kg. A way to go yet.
After wotk I met up with the Ginnster at Cadshaw, the Blobs are staying at Nana's for the night. The usual 7.7km run felt a bit more comfortable, although we slowed a little in the middle bit round the reservoir. I also lost 10 seconds or so having to go back to shut the gate. Managed to go all the way quite comfortably and was a little disappointed to do it in 40:17, Ginnster only 12 seconds behind, both improving a bit on last time. I certainly think my 40 minute target will be a goer, but I think I'll take it easy now as it's close to Font time.
The Font list is getting long. Barre Fixe was on my list, but seeing other vids makes the first holds look painfil/ tweaky so I'll have to look when I arrive. I'm thinking my 10 7s aim is pretty ambitious too. We shall see.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3591868747482784807?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Mal voyage (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/mal-voyage.html)
30 July 2010, 8:12 pm
Days of rain- 76
Dry days- 135
Maidstone. It took over 8 hours to get here, crap traffic. Full circle- sat in the toilet of a cheap hotel chain. Tomorrow is a long day, but I hope to spend some time at l'Elephant and have wifi access. More soon.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6807706941704491081?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Nous sommes arrivés (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/nous-sommes-arrivee.html)
31 July 2010, 9:02 pm
Days of rain- 76
Dry days- 136
After our 8 hour journey from Hell yesterday, we were praying for a better day today. We had breakfast at the hotel- decent English breakfast too. It took under an hour to get to Dover, and despite having to visit a couple of garages to find one with fuel, we were at the Port a good 45 minutes early.
This time SeaFrance weren’t striking and we set off bang on time. The drive on the French side was interrupted once for the Blobs to go to the toilet, but still took 4 hours from ferry to Maisonbleau. After paying and unpacking, we quickly had some pasta and went to l’Elephant. L’Elephant was the first place in Bleau I ever climbed, on the way back from a Chamonix trip in the early 90s. Today it was 32 degrees when we got there at 19:00. Not a good omen.
We had a bit of wander around, I wanted to look at Barre Fixe but didn’t get much of a chance as there was an in situ Frenchman along with his girlfriend. He was generally sat on his mat looking annoyed so I guess he wasn’t crushing. The girls all went wandering, so I had a look at le Lepreux Direct which was super hot and super greasy. I had a couple of goes doing the start statically, but it was rapidly apparent that the conditions were against it. I did the bottom the easy way (with the sidepull) and nailed the top move second go. Then I finally held the French start after a dozen goes ( although I seem to pop to a higher hold than other videos I've seen, maybe try it again when colder), and nailed the top move again, done. Not a bad start considering the heat.
After that we came back and put the Blobs in bed, and it was 20:30. I nipped down to Buthiers for a recce. I had thought that Dark Room looked cool, but in the heat I was struggling with the moves and the landing wasn’t inviting with one mat. I walked past les Monos, still don’t fancy that one, and found Nemesis. This was pretty cool looking and I soon managed to slap the high hold on the arête, so I reckon this will go too- but again, needs better conditions to save skin. I headed back here after that, despite the confusion created by the reorganised one way system.
Tomorrow, I may get up early to try to catch some cooler conditions. Where? No idea yet, let’s see how the mood takes us tomorrow.
Wifi is a bit on the blink at Maisonbleau, so I’m not sure when I’ll manage to post this. Back to trying to get through new SuperMario Brothers on Blob 1’s DSi I suppose.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4521246902570795193?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Tramping (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/tramoing.html)
1 August 2010, 5:40 pm
Days of rain- 76
Dry days- 137
I got up at 6am today, and headed over to Franchard in an attempt to avoid the heat of the day. Initially I parked at the old Cuisiniere parking, and stomped up to the crag. Despite it being cloudy and early it was still 18 degrees when I arrived, and pretty humid. I had a look at Le Mouton à 5 Pattes, which I thought would be a quick tick after nearly doing it in April. But no, it felt utterly desperate and I wasn'y going to waste skin on it. I had a look at Entorse, got established fine on the arete but was trying to be too static in general. I measured the jump then headed off.
I moved over to Isatis, where I was quite keen to look at Cannonball, a nice looking 7b dyno. This had an in situ frenchman sleeping under it, in fact the whole place was like a campsite. I had a wander around, had 2 goes on Vin Rouge (and measured it) and realised it hurt my left hand. The feet felt awkward too and I was an inch away from getting it, so I'll leave it for nearer the end of the trip. I opted to leave it alone, so I wandered around looking at 7s and not being hugely inspired (sacrelige!). I had a look around Hautes Plaines, everything either looked hard or needed 2 pads so I headed back to the gite. I was back by 9:30, and even that early it was 24 degrees.
We went to the supermarket and stocked up (so that I am now drinking those nice stubby beers), the had a wander around Buthiers to see if we could work out the rules etc for the swimming pool. No idea.
Thi afternoon we went to Maunoury, and basically spent an hour and a bit walking around in the blasting sun whilst the Blobs clambered over everything in sight. We gave up before finding the problems I wanted to try. Next up was l'Elephant- the Boss put her boots on and did yellows 3, 3a, 4 and 5 whilst I attempted a spotting/ child herding combo. I had a look at la Barre Fixe, and soon found I struggle to get my fingers in the pockets. I was trying it RH undercut, LH 2 (or one for me) finger pocket out left but every time I tried to snatch the higher hold my foot popped off the smear. After half a dozen tries my right finger was numb from the pressure, and I had lost skin on my left hand. As far as i can tell this problem is painful and unpleasant and I was rather underwhelmed. Plus I can reach the higher LH pocket from sitting, but I'm sure that would be frowned upon most strongly. So after a wander to look at where le Coeur is, we headed back and washed the filthy urchins and had tea.
Think i may have an early start again tomorrow, not sure where. The Boss is keen to have a day trip somewhere too. I may have to head back to try Lepreux with a (more) static start......(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4276032108110191257?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rain on Champs-Élysées (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/rain-on-champs-elysees.html)
2 August 2010, 8:04 pm
Days of rain- 77
Dry days- 137
Another 6am start, and this time I headed to Canche aux Merciers, somewhere I last visited in 2003. When I arrived there were no cars in the parking and I walked in shivering, 12 degrees felt cold. I thought I'd warm up on something finger friendly so went to find Quel Talon, a 7a sitter to Blue 25. It felt desperate so after a few tries I moved onto Grande Marche. I remember trying this in 2002 and failed utterly, and today was no different. I struggle to fit my fingers in the crack holds, and this means I have to be totally static on the first 2 moves in order to wiggle the fingers in. Today it felt desperate, but an Egyptian was almost working on the first move so it may be (another) one to come back to.
I moved on to look at Gros Doigts, which I couldn't get close to the first move of, then Extorsion de Fond which I had no clue how to do. Needing something more up my street I looked at Keo, a 7a double dyno. It suited me, I will admit it'll be easier for the tall, and I did it one handed pretty quickly. Doing it double came soon after, so I shot a couple of angles. I did blue 15 too, which was next door adn looked cool (although I'd done it before). I then headed back to Quel Talon! just to see if all the activity had helped. I was managing to pull on this time and get established higher up, but it was costing skin and it was heating up by this point so I headed home.
The family Lank drove to Fontainebleau, arranged 6 zone tickets in faltering French and went into Paris. 44 Euros for 2 adult and one child tickets, and a 45 minute trip to Gare de Lyon. We initially had a walk towards Notre Dame but it was very hot and the Blobs were hungry so we grabbed some food at Jardin des Plantes then hopped on the Metro and went to the Eiffel Tower. Then on to l'Arc de Triomphe, but by this point it was absolutely p**sing down, so we got the metro back a couple of stops and had tea on Champs Elysees. The 3 girls went into Disney store, then we headed home.
There's 2 Manx families here so we had a chat to them. It's their first time on Font and they haven't really got a map or guides. Sounds like they had a wander to a damp Buthiers and were amazed by the amount of rock- I guess it's a step up from IoM.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8960718598689382511?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Dyno failure day (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/dyno-failure-day.html)
3 August 2010, 7:53 pm
Days of rain- 77
Dry days- 138
Another 6am start, I initially headed back to Maunoury to look at the things I’d wanted to look at before. I found Jet Set Biscuit fairly easily, but soon found I couldn’t do the first move and the second involved a dyno/slap to one of the sharpest jugs around. I gave up on that pretty quickly and moved on to try to find Movement Activated. After a bit of a false scent, I found it. What a cool problem, a weird timing specific dyno that doesn’t need you to pull at all really. I was only getting within an inch of the hold but I only had a few goes, quite keen to head back.
After that I went back to l’Elephant to do le Lepreux Direct properly. I initially tried it RH undercut, LH lower undercut and slap to the sloper. I nearly got it this way, but it was costing time and skin. I tried pulling on with the LH poor sidepull and the RH undercut right of the one I used before. Using this sequence I did it in a few goes. Fool. After this I headed home.
We went to la Roche aux Sabots at 10:30, and the heat was already ramping up. I had 6 goes Smatch and was getting close, but I was shattered from the heat. I wasn’t really getting a decent push off on the scorching footholds. Another added to the list of things to come back to. I put my trainers on after this and let the Boss get her boots on. Due to the heat we opted for the White circuit, so the Blobs could have a go too. The Boss did White 6-12, and 15+16. The Blobs were all over it, I had no idea pumps could smear like that. Once the Blobs were tired and hungry enough we headed back for lunch. The plan was to get the Blobs to sleep for a bit after lunch so we could head out later for cooler conditions.
So much for plans, so straight after lunch we headed to Isatis. I had 3 goes on Vin Rouge, still felt nails. I had quite a few goes on Cannonball. It felt nails, I was a centimeter from the hold but couldn’t improve on it, weird trajectory around a bulge. Then we went to look at the stuff around the end of the Red circuit. Froggy Dick I couldn’t even get going on, Quartier Latin and De Brevitate Vitae, but struggled with the scrunched first moves. Abdolobotomy felt reasonable, although the guide says start sitting with a left heel, and even at my height this was a super stretch. Sit start with a right heel seemed possible, I’ll have to do some research (I’m sure I’ve seen a video of it somewhere).
By this point it was getting late on, so we headed back here to test out some red wine. The list of things to go back to lengthens. The 7s ticklist doesn’t. I have an half a notion of trying l’Anthracite at Beauvais. I tried this back in 2002 and again the next year, but got spanked both times. Maybe, just maybe, it’ll be different this time………………..(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6624861404257098189?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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2B or not 7a (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/2b-or-not-7a.html)
4 August 2010, 5:41 pm
Days of rain- 77
Dry days- 139
It has rained on and off today, but it has been possible to get out on the rock. I was up at 6am and went to 95.2, where I got a bit lost looking for stuff. I've only been to 95.2 a couple of times, and my 2 memories are the tricky but classic blue slab, and getting lost. I managed to find Rudeboy OK, but really struggled on the start (yeah, I know it's shared with the 6c). I had a look at Zyno, but was an inch or two away from the hold. One of my boot laces snapped as I put my boots on, meaning one boot was a bit loose. Then I got lost looking around the other 7+8s, and found most of the other stuff involved those nasty sharp grattin things. A lot seemed to be closed off due to erosion work.
My wanderings had used up time so I headed back for coffee, then we all headed out throught the drizzle. As we didn't have long due to supermarket requirements, we headed to Bois Rond. There were two problems I was keen to look at. The first was Mer de Tranquilite, which I soon found involved a nasty sharp RH hold to dyno from. I sacked that pretty quickly an moved onto option 2- Toubib or not Toubib. It was a little unsettling at first as I wasn't sure where I was going to land but after a few tentative attempts I put the mat where I thought it should go and started to commit more. It didn't help that my old verdes were stretched somewhat and we rolling on the patina edges. The LH sidepull was pretty greasy too, so I pinged off a couple of times. Pretty soon I was managing to feel the hold you jump for, but I wasn't keeping hold of it. Once I decided I was going to do the thing I managed to latch the top hold, and pull through the massive jugs to top it out. Cool move.
After this we headed back for lunch, then to the supermarket. We had a couple of cakes and some decent coffee sat out in the sun, and then made tea. The Blobs are supposedly in bed but are messing about a lot. Going to have a few beers and watch Constantin, then go to bed- it's Parc Asterix tomorrow. The Boss is cold and nauseated, so I hope we aren't getting le lurgy.
I watched Neil's vid of Abdolobotomy (http://vimeo.com/12787929), and he did the start the same as me with a right heel. He started a hold lower with the LH, so I'll take that into consideration if I try it again. I think I was getting confused as it says "sitstart in the middle with a heelhook to the left on the ramp", which I interpreted as a left heel. I suspect what it means is "sitstart to the left with a heel on the ramp" which is where I was getting it wrong. I'll try to grow some skin tomorrow as I have 2 thin tips, then try to do it in cooler conditions. There's also Surplomb Gauche to try which looked OK as I walked past it. I need to maintain one 7 per climbing day to acheive the impossible aim, dix en Bleau.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2972214328948698278?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Asterix Rules!! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/asterix-rules.html)
5 August 2010, 7:54 pm
Days of rain- 77
Dry days- 140
It rained heavily all last night, which didn't matter as today was Parc Asterix day. We followed the SatNav which took us around the Peripherique, always fun. We were still there in 90 minutes, and after paying 8 euros for parking (4 less than Disney) we went in. I have to say I was pretty impressed with the place. Much cheaper than Disney, we bought tickets online before coming over so were committed to the date we picked (you can get open tickets for a bit more money) and just as much on offer. The queues were much less, we never waited more than 20 minutes for a ride. Prices were lower, there were more rides (which were good)- there's also a couple of adult rides that rival Alton Towers, which was a nice bonus. The only downside is that the comedy/ slapstick routine and dolphin shows were all in French, although that's not really their fault and it was fairly easy to work out what was going on. It probably says a lot that this is out only gripe.
Tomorrow I may head back to Isatis to look at Abdolobotomy and look for a blanket that the Boss has lost somewhere in the Forest. And maybe Surplomb Gauche too, 7a (6c+) although I think the latter is for the jump start.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6553960250024773122?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Johnny footwork my arse (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/johnny-footwork-my-arse.html)
6 August 2010, 6:06 pm
Days of rain- 77
Dry days- 141
Another early start. Isatis again.
I went straight to Abdolobotomy and warmed up by trying the end. The first move is by far the hardest, but the slap to the pinch on the arete is a redpoint heartbreaker. Well, it was today in greasy conditions. After falling off the last bit several times, I finally did it finishing left of the arete. As I wasn't sure if that was right i also did it finishing (sort of) right of the arete, which was hardly any different.
I had a wander to look for the blanket that we'd lost, but it was nowhere to be found. I ended up back at Surplomb Gauche. I struggled on the first bit as it's a tenuous left heel, but with the Dragons the heel move went first try. I sorted out the next bit using the jump start then had a crack from static start. After a few botched tries, I fell off the top out by cocking up the footwork. What a tit. By now skin was suffering and I was knackered. I had a few goes on Vin Rouge, getting much closer by ignoring the left foot, then headed to Sablons to measure some dynos. Then back to MaisonBleau.
We all headed out to Canche with a plan for the Boss to do some stuff. She did well on the yellow circuit, despite what she may say, and did 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9 and 11. Looking at 12 I noticed a really nicely featured (and well chalked sitter to the right of Red 21. I was keen to do this as it looked good, and happily it turned out to be Mardi Gras (http://bleau.info/canche/11351.html). The start was OK with some sneaky footwork, other than one slap to get a fair sidepull for the left before a jump to a decent hold and victory. After a while I got some decent footwork sorted to do that move, turned the camera on and promptly fell off the start. Second go I nailed the sucker though, so that gives a bit of breathing space. 5 7s to do, 6 days left.
After this it was scorching so I did some filming then we went to Milly. The decent patisserie was closed and the other one had more wasps than cakes, so we went to Milly supermarket and bought the essentials and some pastries then headed home. We ate said items along with filter coffee, whilst sat in the sun. It would be perfect but for the Blobs serenading us with High School Musical 24/7. And now we're chilling with a drink, whilst the Boss loses very badly at SuperMario.
Five to go. Surplomb Gauche will be OK if I'm fresh and it's cooler, but I worry for the skin with nearly a week to go. Which leaves four skin friendly 7s to find..............(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3839201232217239411?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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5 Limbed Ovine Revenge (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/5-limbed-ovine-revenge.html)
7 August 2010, 8:09 pm
Days of rain- 77
Dry days- 142
Ouch, skin's really thin now and there's still 5 days of climbing left.
This morning I planned to go to Isatis but the parking was half full already so I diverted to Sablons. I fancied a look at Jokari, but the landing was worse than my memory suggested, so I measured it and moved on. Sale Affair looked good but the left starting hold hurt my tips, so I left it too. I needed something of 7a or so, that was fairly skin friendly and nearby. The first thing that sprang to mind was the Cuisiniere nemesis.
I walked from Sablons to Cuisiniere and went straight to Le Mouton à 5 Pattes. I had a couple of goes using the LF hold that is also the starting LH hold but that didn't work for me at all. Oh dear. I had a look at the top bit, and was getting nowhere fast (as usual) but then I realised that my right arm was still bent when I was falling off, the awkward pocket was within reach. All I had to do was MTFU. I did the stopper move from standing just to prove to myself that I could, then tried it from the sitter. Needless to say it took a few goes (and some more skin) but I finally got the pocket (just) and ticked this silly problem. After this I got lost finding Hale Bopp then headed home.
After heading home for coffee and lunch, we headed to Rocher de la Reine for the Boss to have play on the rock. Blob 2 fell asleep on the way there, so I sat on the mat by the car and dozed for a minute whilst the 2 girls sat in the car snoozing. It was pretty hot, but the Boss had a look at the Yellow circuit. The landings aren't as good here as some other yellows, but the Boss managed a few of them. She's certainly getting better at her footwork and head for heights, although she doesn't seem to be that pleased by her performance today.
After sausages for tea we got the Blobs into bed, then I headed back to Maunoury. I'd seen Neil's vid os Jet Set Biscuit where he ignores the foul left hand sidepull and bops straight to the sharp jug. I had a go at this, using both hands on the flatty as the good sidepull part was too sore. I was catching the jug but not keeping my feet on, so dabbed every time. I decided this was silly, so gave up and wandered down to Movement Activated. I have a strange attraction to this problem, and this evening I realised the secret. It was still very hot, and I wasted quite a bit of energy trying to dyno straight from the right foot hold to the top. Then i realised I could step my left foot up again and push again. After a few goes this seemed the way to go, although it's unfortunately very blind and almost random as to where your foot hits. The good goes I was getting fingertips over the top, I need another centimetre and it's done. And I know I can do this, I love this 2G s**t. I think I'll leave it for the last day though, it's one that can be done with fingers covered in tape.
So tomorrow, a busy Sunday in the Forest. I need to find some big holds to dangle on, maybe a dyno or two. Thanks to the people for suggestions but the highball ones will have to wait until I have more that one pad and a spotter available. 5 days, 4 more 7s to do..... could this ridiculous aim actually be achievable?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6442350895903941163?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Which path to take (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/which-path-to-take.html)
8 August 2010, 8:23 pm
Days of rain- 77
Dry days- 143
First thing today I went to Gorge aux Chats, somewhere I've never visited before. There were a few 7s I wanted to look at, but most turned out to have painful holds. One was a dyno I was keen to try but the landing was less than encouraging. I looked at Rubis, which looks good, then left. I hadn't got the guide so I headed to somewhere I know- Canche- promptly I failed on everything I tried. I was pleased to make progress on Grande Marche though- using a deeper (and more painful to my right knee) egyptian I actually managed the first move. I also nearly held the next move, so this may be a possibility in the future. It wasn't long before I went home.
We went to a Patisserie to get some snacks and bread, then had lunch. The afternoon was spent in Fontainebleau doing the touristy things. After the Blobs were in bed, I headed to Apremont Bizons to look at a 7a unnamed dyno (http://bleau.info/bizons/1623.html). I was getting very close to this as a dyno, both feet off. Unfortunately I was losing skin fast in the 28 degree heat at 20:30!! I arrived at a junction.
Someone, I think it was Nibile, spoke of junctions at some point. I was stood under that problem tonight with a decision to make. After investing time, energy and skin in being so close to doing it I had two options. Walk away, accept that conditions were poor and save skin. Or, keep going because of the time/effort/skin already invested and the knowledge that I was soooo close. Tonight I opted for the latter, and after more failed attempts I had a hole in my right middle fingertip. Balls. I knew this was a possibility in the heat of August, with 11 days of climbing. I was just getting to the point that I thought 10 7s in 11 days was actually a possibility, but now that seems less likely. I'm very pleased with what I've done, don't get me wrong, but the ridiculous aim seemed possible for a while.
So, another junction. To achieve the aim I need to do 4 more 7s, and I have 4 more days. Do I save skin, take a rest day to regroup? Or do I try the Balls out method in the knowledge that one flapper could end the trip. If I go for the former I could concentrate on something like Movement Activated, and potentially go home with a really cool tick. To be honest, it's just great to be here. Tonight I failed to do the problem I should have done, fucked skin in the process. But then I walked back throught the forest at twilight watching the bats and listening to the insects- and it doesn't matter about the failure, it's all part of the experience. Besides, we're back here in Easter.
I'm not making decisions tonight. I will set the alarm for 6am again and I shall see where the path takes me.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3190567868067577791?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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A miss is as good as a mile (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/miss-is-as-good-as-mile.html)
9 August 2010, 7:47 pm
Days of rain- 77
Dry days- 144
The alarm woke me at 6am. I felt crap and shattered, so I went back to sleep. Decision made. Today we went to Bases de loisirs at Buthiers and spent some time swimming, minigolfing etc etc. Hot today too, 32 degrees this evening on the way back. I had a 2 minute look at Musclor (http://bleau.info/canard/661.html) on the way home, which seemed fairly skin friendly.
After tea and Blob bedtime it was still 29 degrees (8pm) so I sacked plan A of Movement Activated, and went back to Buthiers Canard. Musclor seemed OK, the first hard move is a big slap for a fair flatty, then a hard lock to a 2 finger pocket. After this it was OK and I was sure I'd nail it if I could hold the pocket. The first move proved to be low percentage initially as it's pretty blind, then with practice I got it more frequently. The second move was fine in isolation but after the first I wasn't making it. It was getting pretty irritating. I developed a blister on the left index finger, 2nd joint. I taped it up, and had a think. I realised that I needed to drop my right foot off for the move to the pocket so I could do it with more of a layback. After a couple of failed attempts I got it sussed and held the pocket from the sitter. I had expected this to mark the verge of victory, but the pocket felt funny and I couldn't hold it static as normal. I slapped RH up for the next hold and fell off. This was when I discovered I'd got a flapper on the ulnar side of my left ring finger, a decent sized one too. So that was that, another should have been ticked problem. I headed for home, it was 21:30 and still 26 degrees.
I think I'll have to admit that I'll not manage 10 seventh grade problems now. I may have a serious look at Movement Activated, see if I can get that done this time. It'd be a cool tick. At least I know there's 2 definite 7a ticks on the Easter trip.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7768169103807269146?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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What a difference a day makes (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/what-difference-day-makes.html)
10 August 2010, 5:49 pm
Days of rain- 77
Dry days- 145
Another 6am start. I wandered up to Maunoury to try Movement Acivated. I never really got the timing today so after half an hour of failing, I left it. I was going to go straight home but I noticed a nice line round left of MA, starting in a hole with an undercut and working up a sinuous crack and a mono, so I thought I'd give it a go. Not having a guide I wasn't sure what it was. There seemed to be a hard move to get the RH in the sinuous crack, and another to sort the feet to match hands. After this was a slap from the mono to a fair hold, and a top out to do. I could keep my left foot on for the slap to the top, if you were shorter it'd be a bit of a jump and subsequently a bit harder.
It took a while to get the hard moves linked, then I tried it from the sitter. After another few goes I topped it out. I got some shots from other angles then walked back out. I did a bit of driving related video on the way home, then looked up Bleau.info over a strong filter coffee. It seems the problem I did was L'Œil de Boîte dans l'Épaule, a morpho 7a. Easy for the tall I suspect, but quite a nice problem.
We all headed to Rocher Canon, so that the Boss could get going on the yellow circuit. Initially I had a look at a couple of 7as, one of which was nicely skin friendly. Lève la Patte involves a jump start to a pair of slopers, then a gutsy pull to get your right foot on a smear and then a bit of grovelling. Initially I really struggled, then one go it just worked and I was on top. Obviously I had to have it on film, so I set the camera up and went to do it again. Oh ho, I struggled to repeat it again but eventually I got it done. The hardest thing is avoiding touching the adjacent boulder, probably soft for 7a but that's what it gets on Bleau and in the Bible.
We wandered back down to near the parking for lunch. I walked round to find Chasseur de Prises, which has a painful left hand crimp and was thus struck from the list. After lunch we went to the yellow circuit, but I got distracted by trying a couple of other 7s. Basically, I got spanked on Retrouvaille and Les Câlins de Kim and the it wwas time for the Boss to crush. I think she was a little apprehensive as some kids old us there were loads of snakes going about, but she'd all but done a 3c in trainers so that was a bonus. But then it rained, the Blobs wanted to go home, and that was that. We headed for home, I felt a bit guilty as I'd wanted the Boss to get on something.
So now the position has changed again. 8 down, 2 to go and 2 days in which to do it. Tomorrow is a Disney day so the skin may get a rest. Then Thursday and Friday are there for the taking. It's back to problem choice again........(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-634567529833640695?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Disney in the rain. (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/disney-in-rain.html)
11 August 2010, 9:47 pm
Days of rain- 78
Dry days- 145
Lots of rain today, not a lot of time when it was dry. We got to Disneyland just after 10am, and left at about 21:30. There was a diversion getting off the A4 which lost us 20 minutes, and we had a brief ring twitcher when we acquaplaned somewhat. Thank goodness for Quattro technology.
Very wet today, the forecast isn't great for the next 48 hours either. I will be seriously unchuffed if I fail in my aim due to caused outside my control (ie it rains for the next 2 days). Fingers crossed. Again.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4412374406316168385?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Fingers crossed G, its raining back in Blighty too
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Pulling failure from the grasp of success (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/days-of-rain-78-dry-days-146-it-rained.html)
12 August 2010, 6:10 pm
Days of rain- 78
Dry days- 146
It rained last night so I didn't head out until 7. I went to Isatis, and when I arrived the temperatures were high and the nocturnal dampness made conditions awful. I tried Surplomb Gauche but it wasn't happening, so I wandered around failing on l'Angle Bens', le Renard Bleu (wasn't really sure what this does), le Faux Baquet and Code Secret Directe. After this I had another few goes on Surplomb Gauche, falling off the top out again due to sandy and greasy holds. Feck. I did Red 15 as a double dyno, just for the Real Thing tick. Unfortunately, it may be called "7a Double Dyno" in the film but it won't get added to the 7s ticks.
I dropped in at the Atac on the way home for the essentials, then after lunch we hit Rocher Canon again. I had a look at a couple of 7as, 36.15 being one I was keen for. Basically there was one move into the high undercut I coudn't work out so in the end I gave it up as a bad job. The Blobs did the start of the white circuit, then the Boss crushed some yellows. She is definitely getting better at her footwork and having more confidence.
My shoulders feel sore tonight, so it's wine, pizza and chips. I think I'll have a last visit to Buthiers tomorrow, although I suspect the game is well and truly up now since I have blood seeping from 4 seperate fingers. May head to Canche again for more kid's and yellow circuit action, so I may try Grande Marche again. And then that's it. Boo hoo.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3955616207390272563?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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That's all, Folks (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/thats-all-folks.html)
13 August 2010, 6:02 pm
Days of rain- 79
Dry days- 146
Another early start and I went to Buthiers as it's close and we had to go shopping this morning. I looked at Dernier Problem Droite but the crimp was damn sharp. I ended up at the Ramp, which I couldn't even pull onto today. the shoulders fely utter devoid of any strength and my old superficial radial nerve entrapment was giving me gyp so my right arm was numb too. basically, it wasn't happening so I was back at the gite by 8am.
After buying gallons of wine, we had lunch then headed for Rocher Saint-Germaine where there were a few things I wanted to try as well as dynos I expected I could do (and measure). Just as we arrived it pissed it down- no fun for the lady with the umbrella in high heels, short skirt and low cut top standing by the cross- so we turned around and headed for Sabots to measure Smash again (I wanted to be sure I'd got it right as I didn't believe my last measurement). On our way it cleared up but the parking was rammed so we headed to Roche aux Oiseaux for a look. I had a go at Brazil, which I think I could see how to do but struggled with. i notice Bleau says a hold has broken, but it'd still go I reckon. Uruguay seemed like a goer but needed a spot. So we left and headed back to Sabots, where it promptly rained so we headed home.
Now we have done some packing ready for the trip. Always sad to leave Font, and despite only getting 8 out of 10 of my aims I've enjoyed the forest as usual. Some things to come back to for closure though.....(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6031880811235543712?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Back to the Cake (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/back-to-cake.html)
18 August 2010, 9:06 pm
Days of rain- 83
Dry days- 147
Saturday was a long day. We packed quickly and got away fine, such that we arrived at he ferry at 3. Three were no spaces on the 4pm ferry so we had to wait until the one we were booked on. With the 20 minute delay it was 5:40. After the crossing we drove all the way back and arrived home about midnight. I'm still recovering.
Sunday night we went out with some friends, then I got the footage from the HV20- 47 minutes worth. Monday was the first day at the new place of employment, then an evening of editing. The same for Tuesday, Part 1 of the video is now uploaded. Part 2 needs to wait until Sunday as I'm too tight to pay for a Pro Vimeo account. Once that's up I'll post them on here.
After work today I went to Brownstones with The Ginnster. We spent a couple of hours doing stuff in the pool area, Ginnster's hand still in the process of healing and my skin was trashed. Half day closing tomorrow, so I may go for a run. Or maybe climb, if it manages not to rain. I have a free day on Sunday, but I'm not sure where to go as yet.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1350353984904672732?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Slow and steady (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/slow-and-steady.html)
19 August 2010, 6:21 pm
Days of rain- 84
Dry days- 147
Half day at the practice so I was home early. I was half thinking about a bouldering session but it drizzled for a bit so I opted for plan B- running. I did an old circuit around home, planning to do the 10km version. Half way round I was sweating cobs and I had sore feet. My usual running shoes died in Font and were disposed of. Today I wore my old fell shoes, which aren't as comfy and have given me blisters in the past. In the end I did the 8.73km run at a rather pathetic 10.1kmh. I was pleased to do it all as a run, some of the grass hills have made me walk in the past. It was still 6 minutes slower than the PB for that route.
So it's been raining this evening. I hope it improves for Sunday. Nemo is apparently planning a Cobble/ Bees trip, I'm not sure I can be bothered going that far. I'd toyed with the Cliff but a dry Sunday will be annoyingly busy and may not suit my skin.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2935661968384657193?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Domesticity and video uploading (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/domesticity-and-video-uploading.html)
21 August 2010, 10:43 am
Days of rain- 85
Dry days- 148
Yesterday I bought some coriander from A**A, the well known supermarket (yeah I know) to go with a kebab I was making. Not only did it have a nettle in it, but it's also gone completely slimy overnight so I can't take it back without rotten fluid dripping everywhere. Arse.
The Boss is working today, so I have the Blobs and the house to myself. We went to the Blob swimming class this morning and when we got back the sun was out. I've just got the bike out (at last- the last time I rode it was 7 months ago) and it was filthy and the battery was dead.
After some electronics botching I managed to get enough charge into the battery for the slow charger to recognise it. So that's going to take a while to get back to normal power (if the battery isn't f**ked). I've just washed the thing and gone over it with degreaser and chrome polish. Some rust has appeared on the forks etc, but nothing too drastic. Brakes feel pretty stiff though, and the fuel pump has tried working to get some fuel through with no success yet. This afternoon I'll give it a wax and check it over so I can hopefully take it out soon to see what drops off.
Finally got both vids uploaded, so here they are. You're probably better off watching them in Vimeo if you want decent quality. Don't expect anything too exciting though, noone decent came on the trip with me.
Dix en Bleau Part 1 (http://vimeo.com/14195745) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
Dix en Bleau Part 2 (http://vimeo.com/14314774) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7296770028114893083?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Whats with all the **, you c**t?
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Just in case sensitive people read it. Or people from Asda.
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Just in case sensitive people read it. Or people from Asda.
SAME THING. ASDA IS CASE SENSITIVE.
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Esoteric Skin Shredding (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/esoteric-skin-shredding.html)
22 August 2010, 6:59 pm
Days of rain- 85
Dry days- 149
The Boss was taking Blobs to meet up with a friend today, so I had most of the day free. I was unsure where to go, but in the end I plumped for Snowden Crags (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/snowden.html) near Blubberhouses. It was raining here this morning, and continued to do so all the way to Skipton. I managed to find where I was going, and parked in the not-so-obvious parking. Getting to the buttresses involved quite a bit of fern wading, definitely a winter venue.
I ended up at Rainbow wall initially, I had been keen to try Tantric Traverse. I warmed up on Naked Yoga which I should have done 4th go but missed the big jug over the top. It then took me a while to get it done, and my thin skin was even thinner. I had a look at Tantric which was super greasy, although I was managing to get a few inches from the fair edge. Getting back and wathing Nemo's video (http://vimeo.com/12457485) I realise my left foot was far too far right. I think with better conditions and more skin this may go.
After this I had a look at Nigel's Roof, but I really struggled to pull on as I couldn't fit myself under the roof. I moved back to the Brock Buttress for a look at the Groove. After a few false sequences I worked out a way of rocking up with the left heel, then an awkward and powerful hopping of the foot to a smear. Then lots of slapping and udging to victory. Nice, if awkward, problem. Then the last thing to look at was Skull Buttress, and JCB. This involved a slap to the sloping top, which was very gritty and which I really struggled to hold with one hand. The starting edge was also very harsh, one of those crystal filled crimps, so in the end I stried it as a double dyno and landed it first go. The top out proved to be a scrittly fight but it was in the bag. So I headed home.
So we've been out to the pub for tea, an early celebration, and now Blob 2 is playing up and not going to sleep. I need to grow some skin.
Rubbish vid- no sound as Adobe was playing up for some reason.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5404380887845007665?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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The Arthur Dent Approach to Running (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/arthur-dent-approach-to-running.html)
24 August 2010, 7:52 pm
Days of rain- 87
Dry days- 149
I obviously had to work a bit on Sunday as I've had aching shoulders and left elbow since. Another year older yesterday so we sat in with wine and a film (Green Zone with Matt Damon, OK but nothing special).
After another day at work we go the Blobs sorted and in bed. I have to say the weather has been utter crap the last 2 days, so bouldering is going to be out. I was quite keen to head back to Jumbles to film Sit Thee Down and the Crescent of Embrace/Flight 93 on the HV20. I'll be interested to see how hard Crescent is, after speaking to Dave Mann I'm thinking I've given it a sandbag grade.
Anyway, once the Blobs were in bed I headed out for a run. I managed to do the same circuit as last time, and without getting blisters too. I listened to The Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy on my way round, and got into a decent rhythm quite quickly and didn't stop. The upshot was the 8.7km in 47:36, still a minute slower than the best ever but at least it's 4 1/4 minutes quicker than last week. The main downside is that it's caned my left elbow, so that's aching more than ever. Jeez, you hit 34 and fall apart.
I'm off Thursday afternoon so I'm psyched to get back to Not Bad Dave or Poison, so I hope it stays dry til then (yeah right). I need to get back to my 7c aim, only 4 months before the end of 2010. And only 8 months until Font! And we still need to have a Wales trip and a County trip. Too much to do- if only I didn't have to work.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5868121383054885764?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Slartibartfast (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/slartibartfast.html)
25 August 2010, 7:13 pm
Days of rain- 87
Dry days- 150
I felt OK today, other than the sore elbow, and I'd suggested a run to the Ginnster. He managed to think of an excuse at very short notice, so I was on my own. I opted for the 5.8km route at home, the one thaat has the big muddy (cow filled) field near the end. I tried the Hitch Hiker's system again, and got myself into a good pace and stuck to it. It nearly killed me up the hill but I managed to run the whole thing. I was extremely pleased to find I'd managed it in 30:09, over a minute quicker than my PB and an average of 11.54kmh which for me is pretty decent.
I'm off to cook a nice prawn curry with one of by bhut jokia and one Ancho. There's a lovely sunset out there, so I hope tomorrow is nice weather. I may risk a look at Woodwell, there's always Trowbarrow if it's wet. I need to hit Warton but I'd hate to stomp up there and find it wet. Then we're off to a wedding on Friday down Warwick way. Beardy Beast is off to rip it up in Wales. I'm off on Monday but I'm not sure where to go, could drag the family out I guess. We shall see.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3221527856183483979?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Back on the Crescent (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/back-on-crescent.html)
26 August 2010, 4:30 pm
Days of rain- 87
Dry days- 151
After work I had planned to head to Silverdale but by the time I got away it was too late. I ended up heading to Jumbles to try to get my problems on film. I arrived at 15:30, and it was mostly dry.
I did Sit Thee Down again, then tried The Crescent of Embrace. I was hoping that the Font Power would see it go down OK, but it felt hard. Very crimpy and very snatchy (well, for me at least). It took a good 90 minutes of trying for me to finally nail the thing. I didn't bother going to the top this time as it was dirty, and the top's easy and superfluous. I reckon 7b+ is more accurate for this thing. BeardyBeast said he may go and do it (and add the obvious sitter) so I'd be keen to hear a grade opinion.
Video of The Cresent... and FLight 93 (the French Start to Crescent):
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-922421732915340895?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Burbage South Herding (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/burbage-south-herding.html)
30 August 2010, 7:22 pm
Days of rain- 89
Dry days- 153
The Lank Family headed to Burbage South to meet the BeardyFamily, and Rick and Mike's bunch. First reunion since Font at Easter. As an aside it sounds like there may be an issue with the Easter 2011 trip, although research is underway.
The Boss did the slab on the boulder next to Crash n Gurn, and played on a few other things- definitely better at trusting her feet and thinking about body position. I did a few of the easier problems, then tried Crash N Gurn with Rick. After a few goes I got the timing again and did it a couple of times in a row. We also had a play on the Sheep Crack, Rick making it look easy whilst I struggled on it as usual. We tried Talk To Me Martin, Rick catching the higher RH hold. I was locking from the RH (or trying to) and going with my left to the pebble. Both of us felt that it may be OK if conditions were better.
After some food BeardyBeast and I went to look at the Rib. I tried half a dozen times and every go I was getting to the stage of stepping my RF up to get positioned for the last move. I can't see my feet, so I never got anywhere. I think I need to bring my LF further right so I can open up in balance and see what I'm doing.
In the end everyone had a go at the traverse on the Armoured Car, which was nice. The traverse L-R without the top was a bit tougher, I didn't manage today. I managed to tolerate the pain and tick Tiger- surely this is too unpleasant to be "classic"? Then Rick, BeardyBeast and I tried a silly dyno from the top edge of Panzer to the boulder to the right. After a comedy (and close to injury) first try, BeardyBeast did it- very silly.
So after some food at the Fox House (much improved since I last went) we took the tired Blobs home. Hopefully I'll get out in the evenings this week, work allowing, as I'm keen to get up to Silverdale.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4157782641156387914?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Sequence Dunce (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/08/sequence-dunce.html)
31 August 2010, 7:39 pm
Days of rain- 89
Dry days- 154
It seems that TanMan went to Jumbles today (I don't know why!!) and did (well, flashed) Crescent stand up. I got a text whilst at work saying he'd been and crushed, plus added the squat start from the right hand sidepull. He seemed to think that the sitter was worth 7b, so I was surprised I'd found the thing so nails. Must be the age I thought.
I got home to find the Boss sickly. After getting the Blobs in bed I forced myself to go for a run. I didn't want to, I think I'd pulled my left calf a bit at Burbage, but my weight was up to 85.0kg at the Monday weigh in so I had to do something. I did my local circuit, felt quite good and thought I'd got a good time- in the end I managed 30:24 for the 5.8km.
When I got back I had a text from TanMan saying he'd seen my Crescent video and wasn't surprised I'd thought it was 7b+. I'm fascinated to see how he did it. Hopefully I'm not as shit as I thought (although that's unlikely). Woodwell tomorrow after work to meet Scraggadoo for bouldering and mat inspection (and hopefully sale)- the Boss won't be happy if I come back with that mat. May have a look at Screaming Slave again, or maybe Not Bad Dave. I'll see what time I get there and how busy it is.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-227922392322100960?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Greasy, but progress made (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/greasy-but-progress-made.html)
1 September 2010, 7:57 pm
Days of rain- 89
Dry days- 155
After work I met up with Scraggadoo at Tom's buttress (nice to meet another UKBer). It was all pretty greasy, but I did the usual sub 7a stuff then forgot my sequence to What's This For... After this I almost-held the lip on Screaming Slave, which is becoming another frustrating problem. I know I can do it though. After this I had a look at Not Bad Dave, but the crimp was caning the skin on my right hand. I managed toget the left heel on, slap the LH sloper then miss the flatty though so that's a bit better. Once I grow somw skin I may need to head back.
Still got the mat, and I can see how people aren't keen on it. It's a bit big, not as thick or well made as some newer pads (I much prefer my Highballs) and not worth it when you can buy a new mat for a bit more. I think I'll leave it in the shed (the Boss can live with it a bit longer) and gauge any interest. If someone offers a fair price and a good home I may go for that, can't be arsed with eBay. Either that or I can buy a bigger car that will fit the pad in. I doubt the Boss will go for that argument. She's more likely to suggest a bigger house so I can leave the pad in the loft!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7903918539368298247?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Crap at running (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/crap-at-running.html)
2 September 2010, 7:13 pm
Days of rain- 89
Dry days- 155
After work I went for a run. It was HOT! I set off a bit too fast I think, conditions didn't help. I made good progress until teh muddy hill of misery, then had to walk all the way up the mud hill. Bonk. In the end I did the 5.8km in 31:51, so I think it would be under 30 minutes if I hadn't walked. Oh well.
A big up to Fiend who ticked his first F8a after having all the health issues with extensive proximal DVTs. Fantastic effort.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7327307450155570336?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Weight Training (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/weight-training.html)
6 September 2010, 8:41 pm
Days of rain- 90
Dry days- 158
The Old Man has been visiting so out of politeness I haven't been out. Basically it's been work/ family/ food. Then on Saturday we went to a friend's 50th, and had a few drinks. I haven't had Newcastle Brown for years! Back home I managed to spill a glassful of red wine on our white sofa, smashing the glass too. Then one of our friends sat on one of our wooden chairs causing it to collapse in a very amusing comedy style.
Saturday was spent lifting most of the flooring in Blob 1's room and attempting to re-wire the kitchen lights. Theoretically there was no way they could be broken in the pattern they were, but after checking connections and updating the wiring we could get to all 4 are working. But for how long?
Off on a course Wed/Thursday, maybe a WoB session with BeardyBeast on Thursday night. Need to get out on the Lime again. And get running too- Monday am weigh in was 84.2kg this week. Tut tut. Now where's that Jura gone?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8005697735974053804?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rain Bas***d Rain (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/rain-basd-rain.html)
11 September 2010, 10:54 am
Days of rain- 93
Dry days- 160
Typically the weather's turned duff now it's the weekend. I had the potential time to get to Silverdale today, but the rain has put pay to that. My right hand still feels tweaky too, so the rest probably isn't too bad.
This morning I went to Cadshaw in the pissing rain and did the 7.8km run. I felt awful from about 1/3 of the way in and it was a struggle to keep going. I was pleased just to make to make it round without walking, i don't think puddle dodging helped. ANyway, I was amazed to find I'd done it in 38:05 which is 2 minutes quicker than the previous PB. It's also 12.29km/h which is the quickest I've ever done (on any route) as far as I know. Wow. That was also one of my running aims this year- along with Winter Hill at 10km/h and the local 5.8km in under 30 minutes. I may also be doing a 10kmh in November, so I may try to get that done in under 50 minutes.
And now I'm off to meet the Boss to look at Bunk Beds for Blobs.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5790716860003236622?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Knackered (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/knackered.html)
15 September 2010, 9:12 pm
Days of rain- 97
Dry days- 160
The bed men arrived at 7am, so I was instantly put to work by the Boss. By the time I left for work one bed was pretty much done. At lunch a swift 45 minutes saw it finished, then after work the whole thing was done. Both Blobs are now asleep in the same room, and I'm having a beer and feeling battered after making up some curry powder.
This weather is shit. And I seem to be full of the lurgy, which could be worse if it were decent conditions. I've signed up for a 10km in November, so I'm keen to get running and then aim for a good time. And it's all for charity. So running for the moment, and if it ever stops raining I may get to caress dome rock.
In the meantime here's the best metal track in existence:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3487133482534917088?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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I prefer blind bleeding the blind myself
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WoB again (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/wob-again.html)
16 September 2010, 10:53 pm
Days of rain- 98
Dry days- 160
After more room re-arranging this morning, I spent the first bit of the afternoon in banks. The second half involved picking up Blob 1 from school and trying to sort out her earache. She was obviously feeling rough as she went to sleep on the sofa whilst I sorted tea.
Tonight I went over to the WoB. I was going to go on the bike but the battery wasn't playing, I think the months of sitting there flat have killed it. I got there just after 8pm, the Ginnster arrived soon afterwards. I had an OK session, felt pretty weak from the virus and the DIY. Skin got sore near the end so we did some silly stuff. The Ginnster was looking stronger/ better with his feet.
Just for Jim, here's the second best metal track (although as an album Blessed are the Sick is better):
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3054414415657544125?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Cadshaw (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/cadshaw.html)
17 September 2010, 8:45 pm
Days of rain- 98
Dry days- 161
After work I met up with The Ginnster at Cadshaw. I felt post-Man flu and Ginnster was just making excuses. I felt quite good on the run, and there were some nice clouds to look at whilst I waited for the Ginnster. Basically, 7.8km in 41:07. I am very sure I can do 38 minutes again which is good, and makes me want to try Winter Hill again to step up to the 10km/h target.
I've run over 100km since starting in July, which for me is quite good. So I now have the aokm on the 14th November to aim for. Plus the 2 other running targets. And a big pile of targets for bouldering. I just neeed to get my flabby ass in gear.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5250839915626724246?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rubicon dampness (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/rubicon-dampness.html)
19 September 2010, 7:09 pm
Days of rain- 100
Dry days- 161
I headed over to the Peak today. It had pissed down all night, and continued to do so this morning. It was still pissing down when I headed East to meet up with LagerStarFish. We had planned a Curbar meet, but what with the weather this was modified to a Rubicon meet.
I've been to Rubicon once, must be over 10 years ago, and it was flooded so I didn't do much and didn't come away with a very positive opinion. When I arrived I noticed Rick's Saab was there, so I wasn't surprised when the second thing I saw was Rick. The first thing was Lagers, no mistaking the man in the flesh. We all had a play on the up problems in the cave bit. To me, it all felt a bit slimy but I was told conditions were good. The Copleys were there trying some dumb eliminate on the traverses area. I was going to ask what the BOBN extension was that they had logged on 8a.nu- I don't know of a recognised 7c+ version- but I didn't. Beardy Beast and Mini Beast arrived soon after.
After ths warm up I failed on A Miller's Tale, which felt hard to me. Then I failed on A Bigger Tail, which the Beardy Beast did. We played on A Bigger Splash Direct, which I got close to but couldn't work out the feet. By then it was time for Lagers to go, so we did our exchange. I ended up with some fish too, which was nice. The Beardy pair and I went to Outside. I had a look at a new rucksack but the selection was limited. Beardy Beast had a look at Western grit to ensure that Boldness Through Ignorance was really E8 (hero!!!) then we went for tea. They didn't have any pint mugs left (gutted), then after this I headed home.
After a fish tea, accompanied by a potato curry I rustled up (went very nicely together) we've had some wine and are going to watch some crap on telly. Not looking forward to the Monday morning weigh in. Anyway, a fun day despite the rain. And thanks to Lagers for the best Fish I've had for a long time!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-145825247268970711?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Projects projects everywhere (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/projects-projects-everywhere.html)
22 September 2010, 11:03 am
Days of rain- 101
Dry days- 163
I was going to go to the Kebs this morning after dropping the Blobs off, but a truck on fire on the M6 caused total gridlock on the M6/A6/M65/M61 axis. It was 9:30 by the time I got Blob 2 to nursery so there was no way I was going to get to the Kebs. I took a load of back roads, which were fairly traffic free, and ended up at Cadshaw.
When I got to the Red Wall it was a little damp, so I spent a little time weeding, brushing and drying. Having spoken to R-man repviously I had another idea of sequences for my project that I was keen to try. NOt ideal conditions, but the pop to the jug certainly felt more controlled and thus easier to catch if I actually got it. The only downside is that I was having to use the left heel (as for Brian Jacques) to get LH up to the sloping edge, and I had conceived the problem as avoiding the left arete. Oh well, minor detail. After a while the sharp edges tore my skin and the midges were annoying so I wandered to look at Cadshaw Castle Rocks.
The river was high so I didn't bother goign up to it, but there's an arete at the right end that looks like it'd be a nice problem. I may take some wellies next time adnd go and explore. Lunchtime now, then off to work.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1083349433508293091?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Feeling old (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/feeling-old.html)
23 September 2010, 10:08 pm
Days of rain- 102
Dry days- 163
Thursdays. A day that I don't have much on, but I need to be in work from 11:30 until 14:00. Which kinda kills the day. I dropped Blob 1 off at school, then Blob 2 at nursery. It was then 9:30, so I opted for the very English thing- soft boiled eggs, soldiers, leaf tea and some reading. Lovely. Then I nipped to the post office to send all my micro wires away, some to the North and some to Cheshire.
After work, I had to wind myself up to get motivated to run. I wanted to run at least twice a week, but the last 2 weeks it's been once. I went out on the local bog hill 5.8km route, feeling tired almost straight away. I ran the whole way, 31:32 was my reward. Crap. The 30 minute barrier is miles away.
Back home I spent the evening ferrying Blobs to Rainbows and cooking up meals to freeze for the Blobs. Exciting life, eh? I've just spent an hour getting to another World on Mario, after my previous efforts were wiped by a friend's kids, meaning I had to start from scratch. Saturday the Ginnster may head to Kentmere, I may be allowed out (if I can find parking there upon arrival). There's a couple of things I'd like to try again.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-82414613999492268?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Damp Kentmere (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/damp-kentmere.html)
25 September 2010, 3:52 pm
Days of rain- 103
Dry days- 164
Last night we had tea at a friends, and as we were staying over we had some drinks. Today we were awoken by 2 sets of children jumping on us. Great start, as I'd agreed to meet the Ginnster at Kentmere at 11. I was there just before that, so wandered up to Little Font. I wasn't feeling at my best and enthusiasm was low. I had the traditional look at Bass Line Venom, and this time I was managing to pull on but then my right heel was popping. I didn't have my heel hooking boots with me so I left it and went and did Blow Yer Ballast. There was a lake under the rest of the boulder, so after falling off the first move of Karma of Trees, being put off by the rotting sheep next to it, I went to Badger's Rock.
I did a few eliminates on the steep face, then lay on my mat to recover. After this I had a look at the lower face, which also had a lake under it. I had a play on the lower Arete sitter, which I've never managed to this day. Today I found a painful pocket on the right and was able to link from the sitter by crimping the f*ck out of it and slapping up with the left hand. I set up the HV20 ready for a proper try, and the Ginnster arrived. 12:30, and apparently he had a fun time getting there. I managed to cruise into the stand up and found the good flatties were greasy and dirty and so I failed to get the boss on the arete that marks Victory. Ass. And the foul pocket had trashed my skin.
We went back to Little Font and struggled on The Way. Then I did Blow Yer Ballast again and the Ginnster did it pretty quickly, certainly looking stronger. By that time I had to head for home, so the Ginnster decided he'd head up to Chapel Stile. Plenty of pleasant easier problems to wander around and enjoy.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7990503473943601975?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Sore Skin (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/sore-skin.html)
28 September 2010, 10:40 pm
Days of rain- 105
Dry days- 165
I went to the WoB tonight, a bit of a last minute plan. The Boss OKd my application but it was after 7 when I was free. Having planned ahead I had charged the bike battery enough to get it going, so had a ride over to Chez BeardyBeast. I had an OK session, energy levels were low and skin was sore. I don't feel any stronger and the footwork tonight was the worst for ages. So, these sessions are obviously beneficial...
I was greatly pleased that the bike started and I rode home in the pissing rain. The forecast this week isn't great, so I'm not hopeful of getting out. It's been cold recently, so is Johnny Brown awakening from his slumber in the carboard box full of straw? Could it be..... grit season?!?
On a sadder note, Kurt Albert has been injured in a fall. News seems a bit vague but here's hoping for a recovery. Legend.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-165692135582410178?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Battered knees (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/09/battered-knees.html)
29 September 2010, 7:48 pm
Days of rain- 106
Dry days- 165
The sad news came that Kurt Albert has died, the end of a legend. Very, very sad.
Once the Blobs were sorted I was free to go for a run. The downside being it was dark. It's getting to that time of year when the evenings are closing in, which means I can't get out bouldering except at weekends. Rather limiting and may well impact on my 7c goal.
Anyway, I looked at the maps for a 10km route that was lit. Up and down the A6 was the best option so I worked out a route that was pretty much bang on 10km. I did it whilst listening to Faure's Requiem then Hitch Hiker's. I managed 54:30 (average just over 11km/h) which is about what I'd hoped. The route is a bit up and down (100m ascent), more so than the charity 10km I hope.
Speaking of which, the Charity Page is up and running (not entirely finished yet), so if anyone wishes to donate (it's NSPCC as the entry fees go to Children in Need). The website is here. (http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/team/Roslea)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3765566304651671678?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Weather Woes (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/weather-woes.html)
3 October 2010, 8:33 pm
Days of rain- 109
Dry days- 166
The weather has been crap.
On Friday I managed to do a one arm lock off on a 1 1/2" edge. First time for everything.
Yesterday it was Blob 2's birthday party. Beardy Family came along to show off Triathlon skills. Even Nemo came for coffee and a cake, a great surprise. Even more surprising he stood the noise for so long.
I've done shit all this week, other than drink. Weigh in tomorrow will be fun. Here's to a dry week, woth some training.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8428653900713204705?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bad Knee (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/bad-knee.html)
4 October 2010, 8:06 pm
Days of rain- 109
Dry days- 167
It didn't rain today for a change. After work I headed out on the 10km run. My left knee has been sore the last few days, although to be fair it's never really been right since I tweaked it on Magic Bus. It was also dark and windy and I was knackered, so the time was 57:35. No the best. Monday morning weigh in was 85.3kg too.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5815018765251412097?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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McMurray's (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/mcmurrays.html)
5 October 2010, 9:32 pm
Days of rain- 109
Dry days- 168
Busy day at work, but I got permission from the Boss to get out this evening. Both Ginnster and BeardyBeast had other things to do. I went to Wet Poo for the first time in ages. My left knee was hurting like mad when stepping high onto the inside edge. This fits with my previous assessment of pain on external rotation and valgus stress in 30 degree flexion. Hmmm, could be worrying.
I felt crap tonight and it was hot and greasy. I did most of the V5s, should have flashed most of them. Still a couple to go at. The V6s felt quite hard to me. It didn't help that I got pumped pretty quickly so most of the session involved fighting to stay on. Poor really.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2932088695884055425?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Dangle Dangle Dangle (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/dangle-dangle-dangle.html)
8 October 2010, 7:25 pm
Days of rain- 110
Dry days- 170
Not much to report. Work work at the moment. Tonight I was going to go to Wet Poo, but BeardyBeast was complaining of a painful wrist (uh hu) and the Ginnster was "tired". IN the end the Boss came home at 19:45, and I hadn't eaten so I got a curry out the freezer and dangled on the fingerbored a bit. Not a structured session, just various Bachars, touches, back 3 hangs, assisted 1 arm dangles etc. Productive? Dunno.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8998369203049601520?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bad knee, tweaky hand (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/bad-knee-tweaky-hand.html)
13 October 2010, 10:36 pm
Days of rain- 111
Dry days- 174
Not much activity in the Lank camp recently. Saturday revolved around Blob herding, and Sunday we all went to Drayton Manor. My left knee has been pretty bad so I've had to give it some rest and I was itching to get something done. Yesterday I picked up the PowerBall for the first time in a while and blasted out a 12,542. Now it's only 13 better than my previous record, but it's an improvement and that's all that matters.
Tonight I had an invite to the WoB and as the SexPest was going, I thought I'd give it a go despite the knee. We had a beer (thanks, Stallion) and 2 hours on the board. I don't think I did a whole problem but any exercise is good. BeardyBeast was his usual crushing self, and the Pest was no slouch. Unfortunately, The Ginnster had a pocket full of excuses so we did not benefit from his tutoring.
All in all not a bad session. I think I've tweaked my right wrist though, aching a bit. I shall have to see how it goes tomorrow. I'm off tomorrow afternoon but there's a high likelihood of school duties, so I may not get out. There's always the Denham Traverse I suppose, keep me occupied for an hour. Then I hope I'll get out at the weekend, but I don't know where. Maybe Earl for a try at my first 2010 aim tick. Not looking good this year.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2306799111602443789?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Burled Out (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/burled-out.html)
15 October 2010, 9:37 pm
Days of rain- 113
Dry days- 174
News reaches me that the slot hold on Poison at Warton has broken again, resulting in a smaller hold and making it harder. I guess I may have to head up at some point to try it again, although that last move was the stopper for me. Could turn into an epic seige!
It rained all day today. The knee was still sore today, so I had planned to have a session at West View. BeardyBeast dropped me a PM to say he was having a WoB session, so after Blobs were in bed I headed over. I think we both felt a bit battered after Wednesday so tonight's session wasn't the most productive. I managed to do a few problems and towards the end felt that my crappy footwork was a tad better. Not saying much I admit.
I'm home now with battered skin. Sunday I have a pass to go out, but as yet I've no idea where. I'm tempted to head to Earl to try Sloping Beauty. I'd go to the Cliff but I can't face going there when it's busy. I don't know why not, but I like to be able to try something in my own time and not have to queue. I find busy crags break that relationship with the rock, dilute it. Get in the way of the interaction I suppose. Plus I feel a prat filming stuff when other people are there.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3537562556214428753?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Usual Earl Performance (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/usual-earl-performance.html)
17 October 2010, 6:43 pm
Days of rain- 114
Dry days- 176
This morning I headed to Earl. Jim was Caley bound, and I would have gone along except I didn't have very long out. I'd almost forgotten that Earl is only 40 minutes from home, 20-30 less than Caley/the Cliff depending on traffic.
Earl. A crag I've never really got along with. I don't know why not, but I've never managed anything harder than 6c as far as I recall. I've always felt a lack of psyche when I go, and it's either been baltic or sweaty when I've visited. Today it was the former.
10am I was at Sloping Beauty in the shade with all my jackets on. Sloping Beauty is on my list for 2010, and since I haven't done any off my list I thought I'd give it a proper go. My previous attempts ended at the match move, and I've never been able to hang the left hand sloper. Things appeared to be going the same way today, but then I found a body position that was more stable- I almost managed to hold the LH sloper and reach up with my right, but I popped off and lost some skin. After a few more goes I managed to hold the RH hold, and move my left foot around. This was as far as I got today, but it's progress and I held the sloper match a few times.
After this I failed miserably on the groove round to the left- sandbag was invented for that bastard. Then I wandered back towards the Pinnacle only to find a dozen or more people bouldering. I gave it up as a bad job, but I'll be heading back for another go on Sloping Beauty soon.
On my way home I dropped in at Cadshaw for a look at my project. The first bit to the crux move is pretty solid now, but the dyno to the jug still seems a way away. I'm not sure if it's lack of commitment as the jug is very sharp and will cut you of you don't land it just so. I also found a second sequence, but I'm too weak on the left hand sloping crimp for this at present. I wandered over to Cadshaw Castle rocks and found the arete I'd seen from across the river is pretty small, and went from the sitter at 6b or so. I think today I was still feeling tired from the 2 WoB sessions. And the knee has been pretty sore too.
On a seperate note, after a conversation about The Real Thing with BeardyBeast I've been doing more digging. The previous list on UKB had a track missing, but I've got 12 of the 14 tracks now. I e-mailed the Swedish Progress Records to ask about Progress- Givin' It, but it seems they aren't the samer Progress Records so back to the detective work. I'm waiting to hear back from Warp about the Lisa Marie Experience track.
Nice one to Mr Crouch for finally doing In Hell- what took you so long?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-399711646551687575?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Sloping Beauty FAIL!! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/sloping-beauty-fail.html)
18 October 2010, 1:24 pm
The first time I held the sloper (not on video) I actually managed to move my left foot about, so I reckon if I can get it on the starting left hand hold there's a chance of success. Maybe.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EZXHl5gLWg(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2331481833017320826?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Wabby Leg (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/wabby-leg.html)
21 October 2010, 8:31 pm
Days of rain- 117
Dry days- 177
After dropping the Blobs off I collected a parcel from the Post Office depot, which turned out to be my signed copy of the Real Thing DVD. Then I went to a running shop nearby, and was made to run up and down a lot. I think I ran for about 30 minutes in total, and it seems that my left foot rolls a lot when running. This, I suspect, explains the left knee pain I'm still getting. So now I have some shoes that will hopefully reduce problems.
Later on I've watched the Real Thing commentry, amusing in places but didn't quite live up to what I expected. Still worthwhile. This evening I did a few pull ups and one arm work. Not many though. I may hit the wall tomorrow. Then Sunday I want to get out somewhere, as usual I don't know where. We shall flex.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-232864201521687274?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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West View (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/west-view.html)
22 October 2010, 9:28 pm
Days of rain- 118
Dry days- 177
I reluctantly had a flu jab at work, so my left arm is very painful. And of course I opted to go to the wall. Probes was already these, and the GasMan turned up later on. This set of problems feel very hard. I managed a couple of the V5s, but nothing harder. GasMan is off to New Zealand in a couple of months, for a year. All change.
The knee held up OK tonight although I didn't do anything tweaky. I may try a cautious run with the new shoes at some point, need to get back to training. I may head to Earl again this weekend if the rain decides to stop.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-40454304970549853?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Kebs Revisit (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/kebs-revisit.html)
24 October 2010, 6:54 pm
Days of rain- 119
Dry days- 178
Well, by the time the family Lank was ready toady it was 11am. I opted for the Kebs as I couldn't face any more failure at Earl. It was cold, but the sun was blazing and the skies were blue.
I parked at the Sportsman's end as the Bridestone end's parking was rammed. I've got a few things at the Kebs that I want to do. Jerry's is on my 2010 list, that bastard Cheeseblock 8b arete needs putting to bed, Cleopatra needs topping out, Cheeseblock needs a proper go, and Crucifixion needs a spot.
It was busy busy. A couple of dudes were seeing how much chalk would stick to Cleopatra, so I kept going and had a look at the Tilted Pinnacle. The Worm kicked my arse, the sandiness didn't help. I looked at Earpache [sic] and failed on that too. Onwards and upwards.
Jerry's was covered in Germans, and was all day. There's a lump come off low down (I don't use it) that was causing issues. I carried on and ended up at the Cheeseblock. Which meant I had to try the fooking left arete. I put it off by trying Cheeseblock, tickling the flake/sidepull but no more. And then I could put it off no longer, the arete called. I couldn't remember how I'd done it before and after 15 minutes of failing, I looked up the old video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfS8QhfCzLs) on the iPhone. Once I had the sequence I was managing OK, but the thing was in the blazing sun so no tick was forthcoming. I moved on. At least I refined the sequence for the top.
Damned Spanky. A "morpho" problem if there ever was one. For some reason I remembered Jim asking if it had been done without the jump start. And a seed was planted. I managed the move to the left hand hold after pulling on. However, I wasn't getting the hold right which made the last moves harder. Then I realised the flake looooow down provided a good start for a sitter. The sit start was easy to get into the stand up moves, which meant it was still frustrating. After a while I managed to get the LH hold, foot up and slap the RH up. First try I fell off the slap to the top sloper. Arse. After a rest and a Prince biscuit brought back from Font, I was staring at that last slap again. I went for it and didn't quite make it- my right hand was sliding off. I slapped again and managed to hold it. Then after some scrabbling I was up, done. It felt a notch harder than the French start, I'd guess 7b.
After this I wandered back towards the Sportsman's. I stopped at Out Of Sight, as I was keen to look at the V8 wall to the right. After checking on YorkshireGrit.com I got stuck in. The holds are shit, and after a few attempted sequences I ended up pulling on and dynoing for the top. Eventually I was gettin gfingers over the top, but the left hold tore a hole in my index tip so it was time to go home.
But all this makes me think. I know I waffled on about damage at Brownstones and wondered if I was partly to blame for the promotion of Lancashire Bouldering. I've climbed at the Kebs for the last 10 plus years, and more recently the erosion has become more and more evident, especially as I go there less frequently. The sneaky smears I remember are now huge eroded scoops. Jerry's arete is a scrittle fest. Bridestones, a victim of its own popularity.
So where does our responsibility lie? I personally think a lot of the erosion at the Kebs is due to poor footwork and bicycle feet. So what should we do? Restrict the climbing to people with good footwork? I'd be screwed then. There's a balance between getting newbies into the sport, and management of numbers to limit damage. It seems to me things seem to be swinging towards the newbies, but as bouldering gets more popular things will only get worse. This sort of conclusion could depress me, but I'm hoping that lessons will be learned and the future of bouldering will be secure. I'd hate for all the classics to be ruined forever.
Anyway, here's a video. The ticks were already there and THE SLOPER DOES NOT NEED ANY MORE BRUSHING FOOLS.
Damned Spanky SDS (http://vimeo.com/16142170) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
On a separate note, I've now got to the final stage of Super Mario Bros on Blob 1's DS. It looks horrendous (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdNLuxRlt3s).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7589854765432152193?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Wads at West View (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/wads-at-west-view.html)
26 October 2010, 8:20 pm
Days of rain- 121
Dry days- 178
Everyone seems to have been at West View tonight. I'd arranged to meet the Ginnster there just after 6 and Weak Sam was there when I arrived, so I had a bit of banter. I did some of the easier stuff to warm up, but finger tape on the split tip was annoying.
Later on TanMan arrived, as did Mr and Mrs Nike Air and Mr Waffles. Nike Air seems to have had a good week with a flash of Balance it Is, and the boys (and lady) set to work crushing. I managed the green V6 over on the right, the only one I've managed in this set. The red V7 at the left end felt possible too. The Ginnster certainly looks stronger and has better footwork, let's just hope he can nail a 7a before mini Ginnster arrives.
So the clocks change this weekend so the evenings will be darker. So I will have to make the most of the weekends. I'm strangely keen to get back on the 7b right of Out Of Sight, once the finger heals that is.
Just finished SuperMario, so quite pleased! Peurile I know.
The Font forecast looks ace this week, so I am expecting some BeardyBeast crush news soon.......(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-515668758832903650?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rematch (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/rematch.html)
28 October 2010, 1:11 pm
Days of rain- 122
Dry days- 179
A few spare hours this morning say me back at the Kebs. Having rained all night I wasn't too hopeful, but Out of Sight block was pretty dry. I had a look at the 7b wall again, but I think conditions were poor today as I struggled pulling on for a while. Eventually I was managing to get going on it and was slapping the top, but it's so gritty it's hard to hold. I also tried doing it as a rock onto the left heel- this felt like it'd work, but it would need better conditions. All this had busted my right shoulder anyway, so time to move on.
After this I did the start of Cleopatra a few times, but couldn't work out the sitter. The top was damp so still no top out. Things to come back to.
It started raining not long after I got back, so I suppose I should be pleased to get on the rock at all.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4598703539515037215?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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(http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/pumpkin-carving-time-again.html)
29 October 2010, 11:12 pm
Pumpkin carving time again.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3363606253558716866?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Pumpkin (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/10/pumpkin-carving-time-again.html)
29 October 2010, 11:12 pm
Pumpkin carving time again.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3363606253558716866?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Holidays etc (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/11/holidays-etc.html)
2 November 2010, 3:02 pm
Days of rain- 125
Dry days- 181
Poor signal here so brief Blog. This morning I took advantage of the car free environment and went for a run. 3 miles in 18:45. The knee felt OK at the time but since then it's got pretty sore. I'll have to see how it feels before going out in the morning. Took the kids to the pool this afternoon, and tried to get Blob 1 to cycle around.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4354788119038997942?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Intermittent WiFi (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/11/intermittent-wifi.html)
3 November 2010, 4:36 pm
Days of rain- 126
Dry days- 181
Another run this morning, 30 seconds quicker this time. I think my distance measure is a little out- my average would be 15kmh if it was right and I don't believe that for a second. In the pool this afternoon I tried breast stroke, only to confirm that it's a bad stroke to do with a bad knee. Oh dear.
So 11 days (I think) and counting to this 10k. Uh oh.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2611058433094828854?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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The Same Old Shite (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/11/same-old-shite.html)
6 November 2010, 7:51 pm
Days of rain- 129
Dry days- 181
Once again I didn't have long to get out today. I also had to go via the Post Office to collect a parcel that turned out to be the new head for my tripod. A perfect bit of timing for once.
I headed to the Kebs, although it felt a bit warm. I had a wander to the Cheeseblock to try my Nemesis Scrittle Arete and it felt hard today. The big cow sh*t under it was just an omen. I managed to get to the top out from 2 moves in, but the top out still kicked my arse. A few people wandered past to tell me that it was rarely done as it was scrittly at the top. Cheers, news to me. The left hand sloper felt awful so I moved along.
As I had the ne tripod I had a play on Damned Spanky Sitter, and had a go at getting a few LagerStarFish angles. It felt hard today and I didn't link the whole thing so the video is a stitch of failures. After this I wandered back to the car and went round to the Sportsman's end for a go at the wall right of Out Of Sight. Again. I was closer than ever with the dyno method, and almost held the top today. This will definitely go. By half 4 it was time to go, as it was getting dark. So ends another day of success :-(
The tripod- initial impressions. I've got the Manfrotto 701HDV fluid head on the 190XPROB tripod. The whole thing feels really solid and well made. The legs are independent and can be locked at 25°, 46°, 66° and 88° which (along with the 3 section legs) gives good versatility. The central pillar can be extended so the whole tripod hits 140cm, or can be flopped over to 90 degrees to the main tripod (horizontally). The central pillar can also be rotated, and the whole thing has an integral spirit level. The 701 head has an adjustable shoe so the camcorder can be moved back/forth to ensure balance. It moves fluidly both in pan and elevation. Overall, it felt like a great bit of kit and I look forward to using it more.
Damned Spanky SDS (http://vimeo.com/16569816) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
Oh, and I note we've hit 20,000 visits. Thanks again to everyone!!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2788823501455523042?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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le Mur de la Persévérance (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/11/le-mur-de-la-perseverance.html)
10 November 2010, 9:38 pm
Days of rain- 131
Dry days- 183
The Old Man is up visiting so he got dragged out today. As usual, I didn't have long as I had to get back to pick the Blobs up. Owing to Chorley road works we didn't get to the Kebs until 3pm, meaning we only had 45 minutes before having to go. It was pretty cold, so I was hoping conditions would be OK. I noted that Paul Craven's car was there, interestingly the only person I have heard of that has done the wall right of Out Of Sight. The Old Man and I wandered straight to the target wall. Initially the right hand sloper felt glassy and I couldn't even pull on, so I mucked about on Cleopatra then came back- and still couldn't pull on.
After a while I managed to get used to the holds again, and started getting more height but still only tickling the top. After a while Paul wandered past on his way home, so I got his beta which was as I had expected. It seems he gets outside edge right foot, left foot high and dynos left hand to the top from the same holds I use (see YG pic (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=bridestones__1_7#photo)). I'd tried this last time, and failed, so opted to stick to my method. After another 3 goes I'd got the top, albeit almost sliding off on the scrittle, and gave a triumphant shout. A minor YYFY. And then it was time for Blob collecting.
I've got my 10k this weekend- the weather looks shit and my knee is still pretty bad, so I'm expecting to have a great deal of fun and fail to acheive a decent time. Ho hum.
http://www.vimeo.com/16709579
By the way: The "that's rubbish" comment refers to the hold, not the problem.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7378726276782081098?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rain and Sun (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/11/rain-and-sun.html)
13 November 2010, 11:07 am
Days of rain- 134
Dry days- 183
The weather the last few days has been awful. Wet, super windy- next door's fence flew off down the road. However, every cloud etc: This morning when taking Blobs to swimming we were treated to a complete double rainbow. The picture doesn't do it justice.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/th_Rainbow.jpg) (http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/?action=view%C2%A4t=Rainbow.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-134439064671854154?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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10k (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/11/10k.html)
14 November 2010, 12:26 pm
Just back from the 10k. The knee held out, painful after 3 miles, but I got there in the end. The course involved a lot of cross country, plenty of mud and plenty of hills. The first mile was slow due to the numbers of runners and the stiles needing negotiating. I managed the whole thing in 56:32, according to my stopwatch (official time 56:43 (http://www.ukroadraces.info/Csv_Files/2010/andertonarms.htm), but it took 11 seconds to cross the start line!!). A bit slower than I had wanted but in the circumstances not too bad I think. Have to see how the knee is later.
I see Nemo has done the Keel, Beast, which reminds me I need to get back on the thing myself.
Can't get on UKB for some reason, and haven't done at home for 3 days. Gutt.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2486231870508846515?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Weakness Reigns (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/11/weakness-reigns.html)
17 November 2010, 9:03 pm
Days of rain- 138
Dry days- 183
I headed over to West View this afternoon since the weather was awful. I met up with Captain Pasty who was "well psyched" (ie couldn't be arsed). This weather is getting ot be very annoying, there's problems I want to get done. Anyway, I did various things up to V5 then my skin became quite painful. The Pasty Lord was looking strong, when he could be arsed, but after a couple of hours we both admitted defeat and it was time to brave the rain and head home.
I'm getting itchy palms to get out and do something. C'mon, where are all the cold crisp dry days for the grit?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5368029107078915743?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Another Nemesis (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/11/another-nemesis.html)
20 November 2010, 3:53 pm
Days of rain- 139
Dry days- 185
After all the rain of the last few weeks I wasn't sure where to go today. Add to this the mist this morning. I wasn't hugely psyched for some reason, but I ended up heading north on the M6 still unsure where to go. I did think about Trowbarrow but I expected the Shelterstone to be seeping. In the end I found myself at Newbiggin.
I decided I'd try Surfer Rosa, but opted to warm up at Newbiggin first. It seems to have become more popular as it was covered in chalk. I got sucked into trying Left Wall, something I've never got close to before even though I try it each visit. Basically it's an horrendous pull from a sitter to get stable on a LH undercut. The holds aren't great and for my long legs it's really awkward and bunched up. It was coated in chalk with a puddle of spilled chalk on the floor, so someone's been trying it. Today I was almost pulling on quite quickly so I persevered. Although it ripped a hole in my right index finger, I kept at it until eventually I managed to pull on, get a semi-stable position and slap the victory hold. I found this desperate for a 2 move thing, but at least it's done.
After this I wandered to Surfer but it too was coated in chalk, both the true line and the highr traverse line. It was also in the blasting sun and it felt rubbish today. It still came down to one move to get the right heel further left, so it's still resisting my efforts. I can't believe this is only 7a+!! I was going to head over to Farleton to have a crack at the Coil but it was getting late on and I couldn't be bothered. On the way home I droppped in at Trowbarrow to see if it was dry. DM and 2 friends were there, I watched DM fall off the move on Pit Problem so I'm glad it isn't just me. He said he remembered me even though it must be nearly 10 years since we met, I think one of the last times was when Clare slipped and banged her head when descending from A boulder. Maybe he was just being polite.
So that was that, and here's a crap video:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-9058538155905209991?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Lower Monty In The Drizzle (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/11/lower-monty-in-drizzle.html)
21 November 2010, 4:40 pm
Days of rain- 140
Dry days- 185
The Boss being at work I've had the Blobs today. The Ginnster said he'd be heading to look at Dinosaur Adventure 3D this afternoon, although it was drizzling a bit. I dragged the Blobs out for some "fun".
We managed to clean off some of the grass from the top of the problem, but it needs a ladder really. The Pasty King was almost holding the RH sloper at the top of the ramp, which wasn't bad considering the conditions weren't great. I was getting the hold but failing to get the LF on the arete hold. Until I remembered to move my LH up, then I managed to get it from the sitter. The BLobs luckily had enough snacks and coats to sit quietly and enjoy the ambience of the venue. The Ginnster had a little look at Maid in Stone, making the slap to the RH undercut look pretty easy. He's only got the last couple of moves to do and it could be a goer. I remember it being pretty powerful, and agreed with R-Man's grading of 7a- would be a good one for the Ginnster to do.
Then it was time to come home for tea. I think I'll need to get back to Trowbarrow this week, weather allowing. Also some weight loss and wall training would be good, but we shall see.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4984637127612500926?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Moving Backwards (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/11/moving-backwards.html)
24 November 2010, 5:40 pm
Days of rain- 141
Dry days- 187
This afternoon I had an hour spare so ended up at Trowbarrow. It was pretty cold, and starting to get dark, when I got there. The ground was frozen and the holds felt glassy. Not ideal, but it has been quite a while since I've been there.
The Pit Problem still felt nails. I can get a decent right foot lock but can't commit to the slap to the edge, what a wuss. I can slap it all day long but I need to keep that RF on to hold it. I found a more efficient sequence from the second move onwards, which I cruised a few times. If I ever hold move 1 it's in the bag.
Vitruvian Man felt fine today, a bit glassy but I felt much stronger on the first move. If only I could keep the right toe hook in position, it just failed to work at all today despite getting the hold well.
After this I did Ramp Traverse first go, then failed on Pit Problem some more. I had hot pains in my feet on the drive home, a good sign that Winter is coming. And how many of my aims have I done so far? F*ck all. Amazing.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4720090806076005761?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Blackstone Revisited (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/11/blackstone-revisited.html)
28 November 2010, 7:01 pm
Days of rain- 142
Dry days- 190
I felt a bit rubbish this morning, self inflicted, but it was such a cold and sunny day I had to get out. A quick text to the BeardBeast revealed there had been some snow over that way, but I decided to risk a wander up to Blackstone Edge. It was quite late when I got there and the snow was lying on the ground. The car suggested -5 degrees, whether that can be trusted or not.
I stomped straight up to the Hueco blocks as I was keen to get back on Nik's Traverse and try Ape Hour. Unfortunately, the sun was blazing on the arete sloper on Nik's and most of the other boulders were wearing a snowy cap. It didn't take too long to do all but the arete moves on Nik's Traverse. Eventually I remembered I had swapped the right hand to an undercut to drop onto the arete, but by then the hole in my tip had opened. Newbiggin struck again.
I had a look at Ape Hour, something R-man and I looked at years ago but first done by Russell Bowman. I realised that R-man and I had not been using a sloper out right, the fools. Anyway, I was getting pretty close to this thwarted only by slapping the icy top. Another to come back to.
After this I wandered across the rest of the edge getting colder as the sun went away. Not much was in condition due to the ice, and Fridge Hugger was both baltic and snowy so I ended up wandering back down. I'm pretty psyched to head back though, with decent skin and less heat on the sloper I'm sure Nik's will go. I find it desperate for 7a+.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1512857849284834072?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Snow and Excavation (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/12/snow-and-excavation.html)
1 December 2010, 5:43 pm
Days of rain- 144
Dry days- 191
Wow, snow. The Peak and Yorkshire has had a fair old dump, but there's been a little bit over this way. I was off today, although I woke feeling full of the cold. I had planned to head to Trowbarrow for another failure session. By the time we'd been to Blob 1's assembly, then got home the BeardyBeast had arrived with his version of consumption. After some time, and gallons of coffee, he had solved my wooden cube puzzle. I'd done this a while back, but the Blobs had destroyed it and I've never got it back together. Good skills of perseverance I have to say.
By this time the snow was coming down thick and fast and psyche ebbed away. In the end, BeardyBeast had to head home for fear of road blockage. I couldn't be arsed trying to do much, so after getting wrapped up well I headed to Lower Montcliffe with a ladder. I managed to clear a fair bit of mud and grass from the top of Dinosaur Adventure 3D. I couldn't get to all of it, so the mud that causes the seepage down the ramp remains, but a good hour's work means it's a lot clearer now. The snow was intermittent by then but Bach was damp, so I headed home. And I've been sat shivering and snuffling next to the radiator.
Another week of crush, eh?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2001007066528962045?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Still Alive (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/12/still-alive.html)
7 December 2010, 6:29 pm
Days of rain- 147
Dry days- 194
Thursday I felt rough but stupidly went to work, then Friday was a day of feeling crap and running temperatures. Over the weekend I've improved, not helped by a swim party on Sunday which involved freezing water immersion for 2 hours.
The upshot of all this is that I feel drained, and I've not climbed for what seems like Aeons. The weather is still cold, but it rained a few days back then refroze, so I'm not sure what will be in condition. Fingers crossed. I've pretty much given up on the aims from 2010. Rollover I suppose.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-853715031423332581?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Aches (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/12/aches.html)
12 December 2010, 3:12 pm
Days of rain- 149
Dry days- 197
On Friday night I headed up North to stay at MadMac's house. We'd been trying to get together for a wander up some hills for a while, but things never panned out. The recent bad weather up in Scotland was a little worrying.
The Boss was late home from work so I didn't get to MadMac's until nearly midnight. After a (not so) wee dram I got my head down for a few hours before we were up and on our way out. Duw to concerns about road passability we headed to the Aroochar Alps, but in the event driving conditions were fine. We opted to try to wander up Ben Vane, Beinn Ime and Ben Narnain. After parking at Inveruglas we headed up the track towards Loch Sloy. I completely botched the lacing on my left boot, so had a blister pretty quickly. I managed to re-lace but it was a bit late by that point.
Ben Lomond at Sunrise:
MadMac getting ready to face the bog:
Conditions were a bit mixed really, not enough snow and ice to merit the crampons we ended up toting the whole way round, but a bit too wintry for comfortable plodding. We were pretty lucky with the weather, it was fairly clear except for occasional clouds on the summits. We made Ben Vane in 2 1/2 hours.
Looking back to the Loch Sloy Boulders:
Ben Lomond from the summit of Ben Vane:
We cocked up the descent a little, heading a bit too low into Gleann Uaine although this was nothing a bit of contouring couldn't sort out. This left us with a plod up half frozen turf, with no path, to reach Glas Bhealach. Unfortunately, MadMac's legs seem to have lost all power so it was a slow ascent. It took 2 hours from Vane to Ime, which meant we were tight on time and MadMac's tired legs made the decision for us.
Summit of Beinn Ime:
We descended down to Bealach a'Mhaim then down through the trees to pick up the track back to Inveruglas. Annoyingly MadMac's legs seemed to be OK on the track, so he picked up the pace just to make my blister worse. After a few beers and drams I tried to sleep but struggled as the dodgy knee had flared up again.
Today I drove back here, possibly being nabbed by a speed camera van on the M74. The Boss is in Manchester now at a Christmas night out, so the Blobs and I had a fun time driving her and a friend into Picadilly. Having a glass of wine now, but bed is calling. After a day of traipsing on the hills and a night of no sleep, it's fair to say I'm shattered. Need to get bouldering though, it seems like an eternity.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6164340703732676926?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Denham (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/12/denham.html)
15 December 2010, 7:55 pm
Days of rain- 150
Dry days- 199
The BeardyBeast came round today, but conditions have been rubbish and we've had that weird cloying damp all day. As neither of us had long we wandered to Denham. It was slightly damp in places, and quite green in the usual areas. We warmed up on the Denham Traverse, and both failed to do the crux moves. It felt OK actually, so maybe in better conditions we'd have more success.
After this we did Cheeky Monkey (which I did double first try!), did half of the arete to the left which had its winter coat on. We moved over to the left, ending up at Snap Derision. We both struggled on the first move, although it's a little easier than when I did the first ascent as the right foot hold is a bit better. After a while I managed the problem using the proper sequence, still feels hard to me although the consensus seems to be that it is now in the 7a+/b area. BeardyBeast certainly found it awkward so morpho may be the word.
After this we both had to rush off. I had plans to sort a few things out, but after picking up an unwell Blob 1 from school that all went out of the window. So time for a glass of red and some food.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3811986519419313777?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Snow (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/12/snow.html)
20 December 2010, 4:31 am
Days of rain- 152
Dry days- 203
There was a decent dump of snow on Friday overnight, so I woke on Saturday to go to work in a Winter wonderland. We had a decent amount, probably 6 inches, and driving to work at 6:30 was great- most of the snow was fresh and I got to laugh at stuck BMWs.
The down side to all this is that the 2010 tick list is very likely to remain unticked. I'm off on Wednesday, so can likely get out to try something. However, if there's any melt of this snow I have no idea where will be in condition. I see that CyL and Woodwell are OK at present, so I'll have to keep an eye on the temperatures.
Generally a bit of a "I've done f**k all" blog at the moment.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-587951767099138683?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Merry Christmas! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/12/days-of-rain-153-dry-days-206-christmas.html)
24 December 2010, 8:57 pm
Days of rain- 153
Dry days- 206
Christmas eve. Due to snow and lack of free time I've not been out this week. I don't expect to be out until 2011 now, so the aims will roll over. Again.
Anyway, I hope anyone reading this has a great Christmas. I hope I'll have something more interesting to say soon.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-778306562889324368?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Winter Hill Wanderings (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/12/winter-hill-wanderings.html)
30 December 2010, 7:04 pm
Days of rain- 153
Dry days- 211
After work I bumbled over to Brownstones. Needless to say everything was soaking. I walked up to the trig point on Winter Hill, then back down. After a pint in the Black Dog, I went home feeling frustrated and wanting to get out. Roll on 2011.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8351373343034700099?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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2011 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/01/2011.html)
9 January 2011, 4:23 pm
Dry days- 3
Days of rain- 6
It seems ages since I've done anything, hence the quietness on tyhe Blog Front. The dump of snow didn't really help matters, and the subsequent thaw and rain. But today I went out!!
I met up with the Ginnster at Wilton. I got there a bit early so had a look around the quarries. Essentially Wiltons 2, 3 and 4 were soaking. I was amazed by the amount of work that has been done too, the little overhang in Wilton 2 is buried under an embankment. When the Ginnster arrived, we headed into Wilton 1. The only bit dry was the Graveyard area, so after traversing a bit to warm up we got stuck in. I did 5.2% ABV and Beer Belly low starts, the Ginnster crushing Beer Belly standing start (6b area I think) and 5.2% ABV (6a+/b) pretty convincingly. I turned my attention to The Move, one of R-man's 7a problems. I've never got close when I've tried it before, but today I was slapping the hold most goes. It's one of those where the target hold is a little sandy and sloping so I will need to catch it at the deadpoint. It'll definitely go though.
After this I managed the arete eliminate to the right and a fun double dyno on smears. And then it was time to go home. BeardyBeast is having a WoB evening, but I'm so tired I think I'll just fall asleep somewhere. Sorry BB, next time.
As I acheived none of my aims in 2010, most have rolled over with 2 substitutions to mix things up a bit:
1. Buckstone Dyno
2. Screaming Slave (Woodwell)
3. Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS
4. West Side Story
5. Jerry's Arete (Bridestones)
6. Sloping Beauty (Earl)
7. Underhand (Almscliff) May have to exchange this for The Keel as my finger doesn't like the slot.
8. Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow)
9. Red Wall Project Shhh, esoteric venue.
10. Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge)
For those with any vague interest, 2010 scores were 154:211 wet vs dry.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-477293838712176746?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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West View and Arse Exposure (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/01/west-view-and-arse-exposure.html)
13 January 2011, 10:23 pm
Dry days- 3
Days of rain- 10
BeardyBeast was free this evening, and after deciding that neither of us were in a fit state for the WoB we opted for Wet Poo Leisure Centre. After picking Blob 1 up from Rainbows I headed over, arriving at 8. It's up to 6 quid a pop now, and it was heaving and far too hot.
I warmed up on the easier stuff, then flashed a few V4s and V5s. I should have flashed one of the 6s but totally missed a foothold out, dunce. I felt pretty tired quite quickly, so gave up on the harder stuff. I tried a V5 in the cave, which involved a stretch for a foothold and RIP!! I managed to flash it, but when I came down I realised my trousers had torn down the seam and my arse was hanging out. Just perfect.
After this I watched BeardyBeast on the crush, then we headed home. I feel pretty weak, stamina is somewhat lacking. Oh well, 12 months to get stronger and tick some elusive aims.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6952856843627185417?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Return to the WoB (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/01/return-to-wob.html)
16 January 2011, 10:27 pm
Dry days- 3
Days of rain- 13
It has rained incessantly recently, and it's starting to annoy me somewhat. I had planned to try to get outside today, but it rained all day until late afternoon. Despite Mrs Beast being ill, the BeardyBeast was keen for a WoB session so I headed over.
I have to say, the warm ups felt hard and I felt weak. Looking back I've been to the WoB for months, and it showed. My footwork was worse than normal, and that is really saying something. My skin got pretty sore after a while, and what small amounts of power I had to start with disappeared pretty quickly.
It was a reasonable session in the end, but certainly demonstrated training needs. 2011 will need to be a year of effort, there are aims to acheive.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5709073492398965507?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Blood on your Hands (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/01/blood-on-your-hands.html)
27 January 2011, 7:22 pm
Dry days- 9
Days of rain- 18
Been rather quiet of late, mainly as I haven't been out at all. A good start to 2011, especially with the aims that have been set. This morning I managed to get out for a couple of hours. I wasn't sure whether to try one of my esoteric projects, but after a text exchange with the Ginnster (who thought the place would be wet) I headed back to Wilton 1.
It was -2 when I arrived, with some attempts at snow. Warming up at the Graveyard area took a while. Eventually I got on The Move, and it felt better today. Several time I nearly held the sloper, only for my left foot to pop. I was confident of victory, but then caught my hand as I slapped for the hold, and blood was spilled. The Move won again.
I wandered down to the Snakey B area. I did the LH version first go, it's far easier than it used to be- probably 6b+/c area. After this I mad a look at Thulsa Doom, the high traverse. The last bit has always stumped me but today I managed it using the undercut sequence of Snakey B original and some slapping. I tried to link the whole thing, failing repeatedly on the transition to get established on the overlap.
And then I had to leave, so there remains unfinished business. I will have to head back, although I think getting out will be a bit difficult for a while. Only time will tell.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3649802970147508479?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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New Mat (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/02/new-mat.html)
8 February 2011, 10:32 pm
Dry days- 16
Days of rain- 23
Tonight I headed to Wet Poo to meet the Ginnster. After spending 10 minutes trying to park, watching fools trying to negotiate the car park in their cars, I was in. TanMan was there already. The Ginnster was stuck at reception trying to explain who he was, and trying to convince them he wasn't some IRA faction member. After heading back to the car to collect my shitty boots, I got stuck in.
This set feels stiff. I flashed a few V4s, and did some V5s, but in general it all felt tough. TanMan was crushing as ever. Later on Weak Sam arrived with his bad fingers, and proceded to make everything look easy. The stamina and skin started to let me down.
After giving up, having had enough of failure, I negotiated with the TanMan and came out of it one mat better off. And then it was home time, and BT internet setting up.
Happy Birthday to the BeardyBeast by the way. TanMan was surprised you were under 50........(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4459409626422763291?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bolts? (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/02/bolts.html)
16 February 2011, 6:14 pm
Dry days- 21
Days of rain- 26
Weak Sam phoned me today to say there appears to be a new bolt/ hangar in the Shelterstone, left of Vitruvian. I don't remember there being anything there before, but he said there was an inch thread protruding from near the ground. The Stone was pretty dry though. I'll have to investigate whenever I'm next free.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8938349356933518401?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Weakness and sore skin (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/02/weakness-and-sore-skin.html)
19 February 2011, 5:46 pm
Dry days- 22
Days of rain- 28
At last I had a free weeekend, but typically the weather was gash. Rain all night, and rain tomorrow. After an exchange with the BeardyBeast we opted for a Wet Pooh visit from 13:00.
I was a bit early, and as I was walking from the car park I met Weak Sam. We had a chat for half an hour until the Bearded One arrived, watching him take a tour of the car park before deciding on a space. After saying goodbye to Weak Sam we headed in for some Uber Crush.
BeardyBeast was looking as strong as ever, flashing most of the stuff to V7. I managed to flash a few of the new things up to V5, mostly in the cave. I also managed the awkward red V5 thatI failed on last time. This lot of problems still feels pretty tough.
After 2 hours and a failed chocolate break our skin was trashed and we were knackered, so opted to leave. I hope this weather improves soon, I need to get stronger and get some contact with real rock. There's aims to acheive.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1817643248373391170?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Sore skin and Weakness (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/02/sore-skin-and-weakness.html)
23 February 2011, 8:41 am
Dry days- 24
Days of rain- 30
Last night I met up with The Ginnster and BeardyBeast at Wet Poo for some more amazing crush. After touring the parking for 15 minutes I finally got a space and headed in, only to find the place packed out.
Weak Sam was there warming up so the usual chat ensued. We were amused about his deletion from the latest South Lakes lists of 1st ascents and repeats, I assume following his reticence to be named when repeating hard stuff. He seemed quite pleased in his way, although I'm still to be convinced that keeping quiet is the best policy- but that's up to him.
Anyway, BeardyBeast and the Ginnster had brought psyche by the teaspoon full. Amazing. I managed the stupid red V5 I failed on last time, plus the tan V5/6 at the right end. I managed to fall off the Tan V5 on the low overlap from the last move, several times. Bloody annoying. I have quite a few things to go back to. But once again I felt my skin was sore, and I just felt weak. At least I managed to wear my tightest Boosters for an hour, a major acheivement- maybe they are finally stretching.
On a plus side, I see TanMan is holding an Evolv masterclass tomorrow at Wet Poo. We were tempted to go along to learn, for example about tick marks ;-). Hope it goes OK, Tanners.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-589237601918766434?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Buckstone Misery (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/02/buckstone-misery.html)
25 February 2011, 9:22 pm
Dry days- 25
Days of rain- 31
On the way back from The Old Man's I dropped in at a damp Buckstone. Nothing was dry really. I jumped on the Buckstone Dyno and was miles off, but then I moved the right foot to an equally wet smear. Then I was tickling the hild, basically getting one pad over thwe hold. I really felt I wasn't getting the power through thw left foot, thus the lack lack of distance. Anyway, I ended up tired and out of time so I sacked it, and did thje groove. One to go bzck to- I find this hard for a 7b dyno, maybe my legs are too long. Well, crush next time maybe.............(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4724417493681980195?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Ouch (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/02/ouch.html)
26 February 2011, 7:09 pm
Dry days- 26
Days of rain- 31
Last night I chopped the end off my left middle finger whilst chopping spinach. What a tit. Boulsering will be out for a little while.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5539793533157913726?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Fuck! Hope that heals up quick.
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No picture? Maybe this is just Karma for all the good luck you've received lately G. ::)
Get well soon big boy.
There's nobody to pull holds off those boulsers now.
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boulsers
;)
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Wilton One (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/03/wilton-one.html)
2 March 2011, 7:52 pm
Dry days- 29
Days of rain- 32
It was sunny this afternoon when I was off so I took myself to Wilton for a rematch. Chunks of fingertape to the injured finger seemed to do the trick, although it hurt like hell. When I arrived I was appalled by the amount of chalk caked all over the graveyard buttress, along with tick marks and fingertape on the floor. I tidied up as best as I could then moved to Snakey B wall.
I jumped on Thulsa Doom as a warm up, not the best plan as it was cold and I had forgotten the sequence. After a few goes I remembered how to do the first half, then surprised myself by getting into position for the crux move on Snakey B Original. This was a gutbuster move to pull the greasy undercut from chest level to hip level. One move better than ever, but I kept popping off the left hand undercut. Over and over. In the end I gave up on it and moved back to the graveyard.
The Move. Is this really 7a? It's a single move that is nails. Today I was closer than ever, and on a few occasions semi held the finishing hold until my foot popped. Frustrating. I even tried a left heel/ right toe combo to try to squeeze the rib, but it was super committing and also felt harder. In the end I sacked it and did some of the eliminates on the Graveyard Slab then went home.
Please don't use loads of chalk all over the place on the Graveyard area, a lot of it doesn't get soaked by the rain so it doesn't wash off so well. Let's not get into the habit of it.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7487583968967268355?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Chalkstorms (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/03/dry-days-33-days-of-rain-32-run-of-dry.html)
6 March 2011, 5:51 pm
Dry days- 33
Days of rain- 32
A run of dry weather marked a return to Wilton One this morning. I was amazed to find that now the entire graveyard overhang AND graveyard slab were coated in chalk. FFS people, there is no need!
Basically I spent an hour failing to hold the sloper on The Move, although I was even closer than last time. This is by far the most sessions on a meagre 7a, utterly nails. After that I had a look at Thulsa Doom. I managed to link into the crux of Snakey B original and was surprised that I managed the move up into the undercuts. I had the next left hand hold, then got the finishing jug.... and fell off. I swore like a trooper. It had felt OK, I had it in the bag. Failure snatched from the jaws of success. Aaaaarse. Subsequent efforts failed at the move into the undercut.
Bit of a mixed day really. Progress of sorts, but a good deal of frustration. The finger was still sore but better, so I hope when that heals I'll nail these two Wilton seiges. A long way to go for the aims for 2011. 7c? I ain't holding my breath.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-487515886662648713?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Tit. Field. (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/03/tit-field.html)
13 March 2011, 7:49 pm
Dry days- 36
Days of rain- 36
Today dawned drizzly, although the MetOffice said it would dry up later. The Doc and her Boys were keen to get out so we risked a trip to Brimham, always child friendly. It drizzled a bit on the way over but the sun came out over Summerbridge.
We had a wander about, the Boys clambering everywhere. The Black Chipper Arete SDS was dry (ish), although Titfield was wet. I wandered back to the car and picked up some kit. After warming up on, erm Black Chipper Arete SDS, I managed the slap move for the first time. Progress. The next move, RH guppy on the Arete, eluded me. Then I realised I just had to push harder with the right toe. And then I did the move. I spent a while slapping away at the next move, until I rememebered I had to swap feet. And then that move was done.
So, all the moves done. I set up the HV20 for the crush. The first move, LH slap, was a formality. The next move to get the RH guppy eluded me. Close, very close in fact, but no cigar. Repeat this process for an hour, you get the idea.
Titfield Thunderbolt. After developing holes in all my LH tips, I moved to Titfield. Now, I can reach the good LH sidepull from the ground. Is that cheating? I've asked on UKB to check. ANyway, I can pull on and then muck about. I managed to get the high "crimp" a few times, but fell off swapping feet about. i think this will go (assuming the start is legit).
I'm quite psyched to get out and do stuff now.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-455589558790606761?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Aaaaaarrrrrggggghhhh. (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/03/aaaaaarrrrrggggghhhh.html)
16 March 2011, 8:30 pm
Dry days- 39
Days of rain- 36
An hour spare. Wilton. Failure.
The long version is that I went to Wilton One, straight to the Snakey B wall. The place was full of fog/ mist and conditions weren't ideal. I did Baby Fae and Snakey B LH for the camera. I think the former is more font 6a+ and the latter is much easier than it used to be before holds broke- 6c maybe. I had a look at doing Snakey B Original but failed to get into the undercut due to repeatedly greasing out of it.
I tried Thulsa Doom again, finding the firsdt half OK now. Today I kept slipping out of the undercut move, it wasn't to be. I wandered to look at the Hacker etc but it was all wet so I gave it up and headed off.
Project Seige it would seem.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6552688700042855598?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Poorly timed Precipitation (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/03/poorly-timed-precipitation.html)
20 March 2011, 7:11 pm
Dry days- 42
Days of rain- 37
It's been superb weather all week, but I've had stuff to do. However, today I was free and keen as mustard to get out. Speaking to Yon Bearded One last night, he suggested a meet at the Kebs which I readily agreed to. The time was set for 10:30 so I went to bed in childish expectation.
I awoke this morning to drizzle. Bastard shitting drizzle. After a conflab with BB over the medium of UKB (the GayPhone is still U/S and awaiting the insurance people to sort stuff out) I ended up heading to Wet Pooh, whilst the Beardy Beast had family duties.
I spent a pleasant 2 hours of failure, although I did the Tan V5 that I failed on in the last couple of sessions. I felt a little better today, despite the frustration with atmospheric conditions. I felt pretty battered by the end of the session, which can only be good.
After a shower and a change of clothes back home, the Doc and I headed out to look for family friendly vehicles. Basically we ended up by getting her a Volvo XC90, by part ex-ing her pride and joy soft top. I haven't broken the news to her that I can fit a lot of mats in the boot.....
After this we had a walk up to Stronstrey. David Vetter is getting pretty green again, a line lost to nature. In a way I quite like that in a way. I spent all that time creating it out of the slime, and now it returns back to the slime. What did precipitate hypertension was some fucking arse has been dry tooling there- the wall right of Cackhanded Compliment where the Tony Bland problems are is scratched to fuck. Whoever you are, don't ever let me catch you doing it again.
And breathe.....
I hope next week I can get out in the evening, I'll have to see what the Ginnster and the BeardyBeast are up to. Bring on the year of crush.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7186172293971676172?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Poorly timed Precipitation (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/03/poorly-timed-precipitation.html)
20 March 2011, 7:11 pm
What did precipitate hypertension was some fucking arse has been dry tooling there- the wall right of Cackhanded Compliment where the Tony Bland problems are is scratched to fuck. Whoever you are, don't ever let me catch you doing it again.
.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7186172293971676172?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
>:( >:( >:( >:( :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :chair: :wank: :wank: :wank: :wank:
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:agree: :agree: :agree:
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Cadshaw Rematch (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/03/cadshaw-rematch.html)
23 March 2011, 7:59 pm
Dry days- 45
Days of rain- 37
I was on my way to teaching this morning but I was made very late by the M6 being busy, so ended up sacking it off as a bad plan. As nobody else was free I headed to Cadshaw for a look at one of my remaining projects. It was hot, and sunny. When I got to the Red Wall I found it was dry, but still with that greasiness that the red rock has.
I tried my sit start to the jump to the jug on the right arete, which I did from standing last year. I wasn't making much progress really. Then it struck me to try the wall directly. Brian Jacques start seated then uses the left arete to finish right again. I'd always dismissed the direct as the 2 edges are pretty rubbish and I've never managed to pull on them before. Today I managed to pull on, and the idea was there to be made reality. It took a while to get near the LH higher edge, but eventually I latched it- my feet cut loose at that point and I wasn't able to hold the edge. After a few more goes, I latched it again and then manaaged to slap my way up the rest of it. Rivers of Blood was done, I reckon 7a although it's so conditions dependant it could be a bit inaccurate. I then worked the sitter, one move stopped me but I think this will go, felt in the 7b/+ ballpark.
After this my skin was a bit ragged so I wandered off to Brownstones, which turned out to be scorching in the sun. LifeLine sitter was in poor condition and felt hard, I couldn't even pull onto Groundhog SDS so I headed to Ridiculous Dyno, which I stikll don't have on HD film. I always seem to try this on super hot days, although today I held the finish for a few seconds on my 4th try. Then I spent another half hour failing to do it. Arse. Once it made holes in my skin I gave it up and wandered home.
So I still have my original Cadshaw project to do, although it's not as pure a line as the potential sitter to RoB. I will grow some skin and head back pover sometime.
Rivers of Blood 7a, Cadshaw FA (http://vimeo.com/21397203) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8499395981857878961?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Negative Progress (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/03/negative-progress.html)
27 March 2011, 6:06 pm
Dry days- 49
Days of rain- 37
Today I went out with the BeardyBeast and Lard. We bumbled off to Woodwell, where there was only the three of us quite surprisingly. The edge on BOBN is very wobbly, I suspect it's not far from coming off. I had a look at Screaming Slave, which is on my list for the year. Last year I finally managed to nail the move to the lip, so I was confident that today was the tick day. But no! It felt hard, the left heel wasn't working and I never held the lip. Arse.
BeardyBeast did it with consummate ease once he worked out where to put his foot and dropped his knee enough. Git. He then got very close to doing AOSD, fingers on the jug using the jump method. You need to MTFU next time.....
We had a look at the middle section, me failing to do any moves on a damp Not Bad Dave and BeardyBeast child herding. I then failed on the last move of Whistler Direct, weird problem that it is. The it was Cream Tea time.
After refreshments (I didn't get given butter with my scone/jam/cream combo, so had to have sugar in my tea as a means of recompense) we went to Hyning Wood. We were both tired and my skin was sore, so I failed to do all the moves on the first half of Transgenics, BeardyBeast didn't seem happy on the full link either.
So there we go, the first proper Lime day of 2011. Shite. But it's the first day, so there's time yet. And the clocks have leaped forwards, so I hope to get out in the evenings.
As an aside, BeardyBeast is going to be doing private climbing tutorage so if you're as shit as me an The Ginnster then I'm sure you could pay him to make you into a rock God. Or at least give you tips on beard trimming.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6553829392194156970?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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As an aside, etc
Ace Ventura - Really! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h32TTmd7HjQ&feature=related#)
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Yes indeed and I've found some World exclusive photographic evidence of Nik's groundbreaking new coaching techniques in action!
(http://www.realbuzz.com/static/uploads/4031/originals/31385.jpg)
http://www.realbuzz.com/blogs/u/Simon_Doyle/time-out/posts/fancy-a-midget-gym/ (http://www.realbuzz.com/blogs/u/Simon_Doyle/time-out/posts/fancy-a-midget-gym/)
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Thats not what he had me do (http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTYqi_5LGDIdlNaJOmNwOgLs2tr-vc0GJEllWW2KUlZR3wlo_vy&t=1)
We had a look at the middle section, me failing to do any moves on a damp Not Bad Dave and BeardyBeast child herding (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TANU1UtGTjQ/TKSy9ljqtKI/AAAAAAAABWs/uPHiWr7BKKM/s400/creepy-ewok.gif). I then failed on the last move of Whistler Direct, weird problem that it is. The it was Cream Tea time.
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http://www.realbuzz.com/blogs/u/Simon_Doyle/time-out/posts/fancy-a-midget-gym/ (http://www.realbuzz.com/blogs/u/Simon_Doyle/time-out/posts/fancy-a-midget-gym/)
Fancy a midget, eh? You should be looking here (http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=midget+fetish&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a).
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Fancy a midget, eh? You should be looking here (http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=midget+fetish&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a).
Ok, can I take it that's NSFW or will I not get fired if the Director walks past?
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Ah, but you're very curious aren't you...............
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Ah, but you're very curious aren't you...............
ooooooo yeah
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5270/5567778423_ac664c1785.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/climberrick/5567778423/)
suits (http://www.flickr.com/photos/climberrick/5567778423/#) by rickginns (http://www.flickr.com/people/climberrick/), on Flickr
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Positive Progress (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/03/positive-progress.html)
31 March 2011, 8:24 pm
Dry days- 50
Days of rain- 40
It rained yesterday, but today it dawned misty and dried up later. I had arranged to meet the Ginnster at Cadshaw- he was keen on a Brian Jacques and I was keen to revisit Rivers of Blood low start.
The Red Wall was a little greasy, but it's such a weird place for conditions. Everything felt hard today at first, both of us performing badly. The Ginnster was trying Brian Jacques via the R-Man sequence. I had a look at this and suggested he try my dynamic method. I managed to demonstrate the move after a few goes, although I had my left foot further left than before. The Lord of the Pastry-Coated-Meat-Feasts was getting close, I think he'll be in with a good chance with this one.
I had a go at Brian Jacques from the sitter and was pleased to nail it first try- the move to the edge is one of those that is impossible until you get the knack. I played on the sitter to RoB, failing miserably trying to get the RH edge. I then tried it going up to the RH crimpy sloper first, rather than taking the LH edge first. This felt nails until my LF happened upon a tiny dink, and then I managed the move a couple of times.
I'm really psyched for this problem, it feels solid 7b and maybe harder. But it's so conditionsy it's hard to tell. It's also pretty morpho. I think it'll take some working. PastyKid is keen for a Brian Jacques rematch too, so I may end up back here a bit in the near future. Bring it on.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7348145149995271556?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Yo Gcw, have you atopo for this area, was out on the bi cycle the other night and popped in for a look, so i dont inadvertantly steal any of your projects.
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I can knock one together if you want, Paul. It's quite a nice wall.
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Yeh that would be cool, yeh it is suprisingly quite nice rock on close inspection.
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Sorry it's a bit shit but I'm at work.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/photo.jpg)(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/photo2.jpg)
1. Mighty Mouse 7a+. Wall on razor edges, one of R-Man's
2. Brian Jacques 7a, another of R-Man's. Sit with LH sidepull crack and RH low sidepull. Pull up to RH sidepull then use left arete and face holds to move back up right to the flake jug.
3. Rivers of Blood 7a-ish. Standing start to the centre of the wall (see my recent vid). My main project is the sit start for Brian Jacques into this (ie no hands on left arete)
4. Jump Arete 6b. Jump to the jug then up to the flake jug. The sit for BJ linked into this is my other project, but I've been too chicken to latch the jump to the jug so far!!
Further right is a blunt arete which is RGinn's project.
Enjoy!! Let me know opinions on grades too. Various videos of these are in the Lancashire New Problems Thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=10762.0).
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New Problems at Wet Poo (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/04/new-problems-at-wet-poo.html)
3 April 2011, 5:32 pm
Dry days- 52
Days of rain- 41
It dawned a nice day, but by 7:30 it was raining. I headed over to Wilton One to see if Snakey B would be dry, but there was an offensive cloying low cloud that had soaked everything, so I headed to West View instead.
The problems have been reset. As I only had an hour, I threw myself into them and did most of the stuff up to V5, flashing most of these. When I finished I was pretty pumped so went away fairly happy. Need to get a bit stronger though if I'm going to finish my Aims for 2011!!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2433616792922606857?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Sorry it's a bit shit but I'm at work.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/photo.jpg)(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/photo2.jpg)
1. Mighty Mouse 7a+. Wall on razor edges, one of R-Man's
2. Brian Jacques 7a, another of R-Man's. Sit with LH sidepull crack and RH low sidepull. Pull up to RH sidepull then use left arete and face holds to move back up right to the flake jug.
3. Rivers of Blood 7a-ish. Standing start to the centre of the wall (see my recent vid). My main project is the sit start for Brian Jacques into this (ie no hands on left arete)
4. Jump Arete 6b. Jump to the jug then up to the flake jug. The sit for BJ linked into this is my other project, but I've been too chicken to latch the jump to the jug so far!!
Further right is a blunt arete which is RGinn's project.
Enjoy!! Let me know opinions on grades too. Various videos of these are in the Lancashire New Problems Thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=10762.0).
Cheers man, looks good, ill give you some feedback if i get up there.
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Considering recent wet weather, it'll need a few days of drying to be back in condition. but all feedback is welcome, especially on grades.
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Mate, i cant grade for toffee :lol:
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Me neither, so if we both guess I'm sure we'll end up at the right answer :-\
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Who'd Have Thought it? (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/04/whod-have-thought-it.html)
5 April 2011, 7:48 am
Doing an 8 in the three main disciplines of rock isn't that common. Doing an 8 in all three disciplines in the style intended (ie onsight for trad etc) is less common.
BeardyBeast had managed the first two, flash of Doug (Roaches) and onsight solo of Boldness Through Ignorance (Cow's Mouth, E8 now the peg is gone) and font 8a boulder problems (eg La Puce at Canche). But being a bit of a punter, he hadn't managed a sport 8 (mainly as he hadn't been arsed I suspect).
Finally pulling his finger out he's gone and done a sport 8 at last- Moddey Dhoo 8a+ at Trollers Gill. The trio is complete.
BUT, what this also means is that he's gone and done a first ascent in each area, since Moddey Dhoo is a new route. Add this to That's My Lot (E8 7a, Rivelin Quarries, FA) and Snatch (font 8a, Denham), Titus Gaukroger (font 8a/+, Mytholm) and Nik's Wall (font 8a+, Rivelin) and it's quite an impressive acheivement (but don't tell the Beardy One I said that or he'll need bigger hats).
All I can say is "Medal Time":
If only he did any coaching..........(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8855339589672048646?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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GCW, are you saying he's onsighted the F8a+. Either way fine clambering skilz.
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No I wasn't, but E8 is for the onsight so my point was that doing all three 8s including E8 onsight isn't too common.
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Ah Yep i see now.
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Spanked (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/04/spanked.html)
6 April 2011, 8:38 pm
Dry days- 54
Days of rain- 42
I had a spare hour today so I risked a CyL trip despite the wet weather this morning. There was a lot of dripping/ seepage from the top and the top break. I stayed at the left end doing various easy traversing and up problems. After half an hour The Jeewooth arrived and not long after Serpico turned up, bemoaning his excessive bulk.
Anyway, I had an hour re-acquanting myself with CyL then had to rush off again. It just served to reinforce the areas of weakness- but that's a good thing isn't it??(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-924977231767053081?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Spanked.... again (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/04/spanked-again.html)
7 April 2011, 9:12 pm
Dry days- 55
Days of rain- 42
Tonight I went to West View, feeling rather tired. Basically I did all the stuff up to V5 and got a couple of the 6s worked out but didn't have enough in the tank. BeardyBeast and the Ginnster were looking strong as ever.
Fingers crossed for decent weather- I have a day or two free next week. Maybe an Almscliff rematch is in order..........(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5901261741098689376?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rain, drizzle, mist, wind, and precipitation (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/04/rain-drizzle-mist-wind-and.html)
11 April 2011, 4:26 pm
Dry days- 58
Days of rain- 43
Today I had the whole day free, the last few days hve been hot and sunny. I was going to have a look at Guisecliff which is somewhere I've never been. The forecast didn't look great though, but why waste a day?
The day started out nice, but once at Guisecliff it became darker and more threatening. I landed up at the Mop Top block, and did the left side of the arete (well actually I didn't as I didn't top it out as the top was filthy).
I then wandered to have a look at A Little Sparkle, and as I arrived the rain started. It was drizzle at first, but enough to make all the smear slimy so I gave it up pretty quickly. I looked at Jesus Jelly Mould which needs a good scrub, then the heavens opened. I wandered back to the car getting soaked. Actually, I stomped up and down the hillside looking at all the other stuff, getting soaked.
So then I sat in the car eating my lunch and watching the horizontal rain thinking of what to do. I opted to risk a visit to Snowden as I knew the Tantric wall overhangs and the wind was in the right direction. I was right on this occasion, and the wall was dry- the top was soaked and there was some run off but it was dripping away from the rock.
I did Naked Yoga via a better sequence- this along with the rock stabilising means it's likely 6c. I then did The Bridge second try, but without the top out onto soaking slopers. Tantric Traverse still resisted. I find this really hard on the first move. I did it from the second move to the end, but that first span feels nails. I wonder if it's my unstable shoulder that does it?
So there you go, a wet day. Typical. And now I'm back home typing this and it's sunny again. Typical.
Wet Day In Yarkshar (http://vimeo.com/22245257) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7266028203153821058?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Nope, it's just one really hard move and the rest is a path in comparison.
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Just for the record : The Bridge should finish in the groove of Rainbow. it Feels much harder from the left, it's the crux of The Bridge really due to the moves before it. Nice one for getting out there!
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Yes, I didn't make that clear. The Groove was wet which is why I finished where I did.
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A day behind (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/04/day-behind.html)
13 April 2011, 7:19 pm
Dry days- 60
Days of rain- 43
Yesterday I dropped in at Woodwell for an hour. It was dry and in OK condition. The BOBN hold has finally gone leaving a sloping hold in its place. I also note a bit has come off of the Closer/ Sanctified undercut, but it makes little difference.
I fell off the move to the lip on Screaming Slave for a while, then did Closer and What's This For the cheaty way. After this I went for a walk around the coast, then found the tea shop(s) aren't open on a Tuesday. Brill.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6360139995617609324?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Catch up (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/04/catch-up.html)
19 April 2011, 6:35 pm
Dry days- 65
Days of rain- 43
The Doc and I went up to Glen Shiel on Friday for two nights in the Cluanie Inn. On Saturday we had a wander up some Munros, planning to do Carn Ghluasaid, Sgurr nan Conbhairean and Sail Chaorain. The MWIS forecast looked good, but in the event the cloud was down at 750m and it was cold and windy. After the first two Munros we decided to forget about Sail Chaorain and headed back to the pub. A bit awkward as I am now left with an awkward to access hill for the future. Fun day out anyway.
Monday I had an hour in the evening, so headed back to Cadshaw. The local population of Mosquitos met me at the Red Wall, and it felt a little greasy. The sitter to Rivers of Blood defeated me completely, the left hand crack hold making my finger go numb. I had a look at the Ginnster's project arete thing adn made some progress. I discovered that the high "edge" wasn't at all a hold, so the top is going to be hard. Really, it needs a ladder taking in for inspection/ cleaning. I think I will be heading back on Thursday with the Ginnster.
On a seperate note, the BeardyBeast has apparently left his laptop and camcorder at home. That may restrict his Font video making.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5112647690746766013?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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On a seperate note, the BeardyBeast has apparently left his laptop and camcorder at home. That may restrict his Font video making.
Oh yeah? Hope he remembered his Spanish spotter and his bike.
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Lime weather (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/04/dry-days-61-days-of-rain-43-it-has-been.html)
20 April 2011, 7:42 pm
Dry days- 61
Days of rain- 43
It has been hot today. Very hot. I hope it ain't this hot for the BeardyBeast in Bleau.
I headed to Fairy Steps today, hoping the sun would be diluted through the trees. First off I headed over to Democracy, a problem I've never tried. I warmed up by working it bit by bit and managed every move in control, nicely static. So then I had a crack at the link. I was surprised to do it first go, although the calm and control had gone and it was all a bit slappy. After this I did Cultural Elite Sign Up Sheet, then headed back for a crack at Aeon Dyno.
Three guys were at the Aeon Buttress on the way back so I left it and headed up to Walk Away. I did Intellect stand, then had a look at The Second Coming and the 7a+ wall to the right. As usual I failed on both. By this time it was super hot, my skin was sore and I had run out of drink so I headed home. Rematch in due course.
A couple of easy things at Fairy Steps (http://vimeo.com/22669960) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7556500116969088796?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Twist (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/04/twist.html)
21 April 2011, 8:05 pm
Dry days- 62
Days of rain- 43
I headed back to Cadshaw with the Pasty Lord tonight. I met him at the Red Wall where he was having a go at Brian Jacques. I had a few goes at the Arete Project, feeling more static on it. I think this will go, but it's hard to know which bit of the break (read "non hold") to slap for.
After this I tried my sitter into RoB, and was surprised to get the RH crimp properly, and turn it into a 4 finger crimped grip. I had a fair crack at then holding the left hand of the stand up starting holds, so I know I can do this, although it feels hard.
Then we opted to have a look at Twist (http://members.multimania.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/Twist.wmv), one of Olly Mueller's problems from ages ago. The Ginnster did it in a couple of tries using the back step method. I flashed it using the Lanky method. No surprises there.
We headed to have a look at the other wall mentioned in the old SLB guide as a project, across the river and up a slippery slope of death. There's an interesting flake line, reminiscent of a mirrored Hacker. It had a wasp nest in it that I got rid of, only for the solitary occupant to hang around buzzing angrily. We had a play on this, feels quite hard but it's quite dirty, then headed home via a much easier method that didn't involve death.
Progress made, and I'm pretty keen to get back and finish my project. Or should I say projects.
Twist (http://vimeo.com/22715676) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4820780937955433205?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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I forgot about those Cadshaw problems...
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I forgot about those Cadshaw problems...
I'm not surprised.
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A New Nemesis (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/04/new-nemesis.html)
27 April 2011, 7:01 pm
Dry days- 68
Days of rain- 43
It was hot today, and I wasn't sure if I'd be getting out. My left index finger is still raw from Second Coming, so I was trying to think of places with slopers and Shuck's Lair popped into mind. I went here once with BeardyBeast a while ago and wasn't impressed but I thought I'd give it another go. The Doc was at a loose end so she tagged along.
The new approach is much better than the original, and we got ther easily enough. It was in direct sun and pretty hot and sweaty. As a lot of the starts seem to involve a campus move it wasn't long before we moved on to the Fairy Steps. I had a look at the Taliesin area, which I've never been to before. The sitter for the V4 crack was worth a look. Initially I was getting nowhere on the sit start, although the stand start was steady away. After a while I got all but the first move sussed and fairly solid. Eventually I managed the first move.
The link was elusive today, I got through the hard moves a few times only to botch a fairly easy, but quite powerful move, that transitions into the stand start. I was very annoyed, had reopened my split finger and had run out of time. So that's another to add to the to-do list.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6224206375717833155?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Any reason some of the Blog Posts don't appear on here?
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Fairy Steps Wedding (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/04/fairy-steps-wedding.html)
29 April 2011, 4:06 pm
Dry days- 70
Days of rain- 43
The run of dry weather continues! I just hope this isn't our quota for the year. And today was William and Katherine's right Royal Wedding, so us plebs got an extra day off work.
And what better way to spend it than flailing around on the sitstart that beat me 2 days ago? There was less pressure of time today, so I got to rest properly. However, the first move was eluding me. In fact the second move was too. After a lot of failure, and many many oaths, I was getting really angry. But it made no difference. After many tries I was finally getting the first move done, it's very body position dependant. Then I was consistent on the second move- falling off every time.
Eventually I realised I could put my right foot on a crap dink which helped get the body position right for the cross over. And then in the end I managed to link it. Thank goodness for that, pain in the arse that it is.
After this I was wrecked, so I did Et Tu Brute which is an enjoyable traverse and then drove back home to recuperate, and grow some skin. I'm quite keen to get on Intellect SDS but I'm not sure of the approved Johnny G rules.
http://www.vimeo.com/23048152(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7167559069890634639?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Red Wine diet looks like its working, G. :strongbench:
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Vin blanc, mon cher.
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Esoterica (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/esoterica.html)
1 May 2011, 9:37 pm
Dry days- 72
Days of rain- 43
A day at Fairy Steps. The Trick and beyond!
Greg's guide mentions a couple of things of V6 and above beyond The Trick. I explored a bit, eventually finding the V6 wall. This ended up being a really hard pull on, then a slap for the top. it took a while to get the move sussed but then it was dans le sac.
I then did the rib to the left, although I didn't top out as there was a big loose block.
Then back to The Trick, and the sitter. After trying to do The Trick via my original sequence:
The Trick Font 7a/+ (http://vimeo.com/5339992) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
I suddenly found a Trick involving a left foot lock. After a bit I managed to link from the sitter, albeit via a not--as-eliminate as before sequence.
This weather is pretty mad, almost 4 weeks of sun and dry weather. Time to get on the projects....................................
http://www.vimeo.com/23124754(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8687059033082862620?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Not sure why that didnt embed.
Even More Fairy Steps (http://www.vimeo.com/23124754)
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YYFY (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/yyfy.html)
4 May 2011, 7:46 pm
Dry days- 75
Days of rain- 43
This afternoon I had a couple of hours free, and as the forecast suggests rain soon I opted to look at Cadshaw again.
On the way over the fire of Anglezarke Moor was evident, having spread across to Wheelton Moor over as far as the A675. Quite a decent burn area, reinforced by the number of fire engines around.
Red Wall wsa in pretty decent nick. I spent a while trying the various moves on the Red Wall, before getting sucked into my project. After a lot of trying I managed to link from the LH crack and RH sidepull to the finish of the stand up of Rivers Of Blood (that nobody else can do as they can't reach the starting holds?!?).
After a lot more trying I finally did the project. It felt super hard, I'll suggest 7b+, but also very morpho (my solution involved a dynamic slap at full stretch for me) and condition dependant. Really really pleased though, it's a cool problem.
So there was the little matter of the Rick's Arete project. Shit, this is also pretty tough. And as my skin was trashed and ROB had given me a flapper, I left it for another day- and headed home happy. And psyched for more. YYFY.
Rivers of Blood (http://vimeo.com/23282657) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-928828909500451636?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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The Weather Breaks (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/weather-breaks.html)
5 May 2011, 7:37 pm
Dry days- 75
Days of rain- 50
Today it rained- I am really pleased to have got Rivers of Blood done yesterday.
As it was raining I thought I'd go for a run, especially as I have the Manchester 10k in 2 weeks or so and I haven't run since November. I did the local circuit after work, 4.83km in 23:50 (12.2kmh) in the rain. It felt OK, but I could do with doing some longer runs to get stamina back.
Whilst running it occurred to me that I could link the sitter of RoB into my 6b Jump Arete- I reckon this would be a notch harder than RoB SDS. But the rain needs top bugger off first.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1578980185842136278?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Crap Indoors As Usual (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/crap-indoors-as-usual.html)
7 May 2011, 4:36 pm
Dry days- 75
Days of rain- 52
I had an hour at Wet Poo today, before an afternoon at work. I felt battered actually, dragging myself up lots of V4/5 things and getting close to a few V6s. Fingers are quite sore too.
The fact the last few days have been wet means Red Wall will be out for a bit, projects will have to wait for a bit.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7428220248876973971?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bugger (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/bugger.html)
8 May 2011, 8:44 am
Either the wall or my recent return to running has annoyed my left knee. It's never been right since Magic Bus (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/04/day-343-apremont-and-rain.html) and the last time I started training for a 10k it flared up. I thought last time it was a meniscal pathology, and the fact it settled down meant I'd left it alone. I'll have to see what it does long term, but it has pissed me off somewhat.
So the question this week is this: do I go running again to train for the Manc Run, risking annoying it more? Or rest it until the run itself, relying on basic fitness to muddle through. The was it is today I'm thinking the latter.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-372916684269233957?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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So the question this week is this: do I go running again to train for the Manc Run, risking annoying it more? Or rest it until the run itself
The latter, surely?
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That's what I'm opting for, along with 3 square meals a day of ibuprofen.
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Manchester 10k (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/manchester-10k.html)
15 May 2011, 5:09 pm
Dry days- 75
Days of rain- 60
Blob 2 had her super exciting mega fun birthday party yesterday, so we all had sugar and E-number fuelled kids to deal with. More excitement when BeardyBeast needed a jump start due to forgetfulness. My knee has been pretty bad recently and I wasn't even sure if I was going to do the Manchester 10k.
I was taking the Doc to Manchestah anyway as she was doing the race, so I decided to give it a go. It was cold and rainy today, not ideal but at least it was cooler than it has been for sometime. I ended up doing the run, taking a rucksack full of coats along the way. Other than the bad knee I felt pretty decent, although by no means was I pushing it. I managed to get around OK, my stopwatch said 56:14 but the electronic chip time will be out soon.
I've been thinking about doing the Morecambe Bay half marathon (http://www.crossbay.org.uk/)- after today I'm even more keen, looks like a really interesting day out. In fact, I may go and register right now.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-838294319922467683?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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A transition from doubt (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/transition-from-doubt.html)
17 May 2011, 8:03 pm
Dry days- 75
Days of rain- 62
After I registered for the Morecambe Cross Bay Challenge in a fit of success and wine, I woke yesterday to the realisation that 13.1 miles across wet sand and rivers may not be that easy. I wondered to myself if this was a bridge too far, a thought that sat in my mind all of yesterday.
I finished at a reasonable time today, so I put on my shoes and went for a run in the drizzle. I had a vague idea of where I was going but no real plans and no idea of distance. I wanted to see how far I could go, so I set off at rest pace and just kept going.
Somewhere around a mile from home my legs were going, but I made it back OK. After checking distances online I have managed to do 10.8 miles, in 1:54:45 (although that includes time spent waiting at crossings etc) which gives an average of 9.1kmh- certainly not fast but I know I can do a half marathon now and if I kept up that pace it would be in 2 hours 20 minutes, although I am under no illusions that the Cross Bay Challenge will be tough and no place for a PB.
Tired now, but quite pleased. Need a bit more prep before the day, and it should be OK.
Pissed off with the weather though, totally shite.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1223024305266190583?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Remind me in future...... (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/remind-me-in-future.html)
19 May 2011, 9:15 pm
Dry days- 77
Days of rain- 62
Earl Crag. The hardest thing I've done there is the John Dunne Slap, it always kicks may arse. I just don't get on with the place- it destroys my skin and kicks my arse every time.
Anyway, today I had some free time. I wanted to head to Silverdale really, but it's been so wet recently I thought it would be wet. Earl it was. First off I had a look at Jim Purchon's 7b under the monument, and got pretty close to getting the hold you leap for. But the left hand hold has a pebble, and it wasn't friendly so I sacked that off. I failed to make any progress on Handy Andy's, desperate. I had a look at Andy Brown's Wall, getting the sidepull quite easily but then getting spat off from the last move. I was OK moving feet about to get set up, but on one try my right hand slipped off and I ripped a fingernail off- message received, move on.
I looked at the Gimp/ the Flakes / Lager Lager Lager, but by then the spirit was broken and after half heartedly pulling on to these problems, I admitted defeat.
Ilkley- another place I don't get on with. in fact most of ghe visits have been after running from Earl with tail-between-legs. Ringpiece kicked my ass, the move I could do before defeated me- partly due to tired legs, the 11 mile run has obviously had some effect. I then went and looked at Chairiots of Fire Eliminate, doing all the moves steadily. This could be a good one to try, but I'm shite at stamina so it coiuld be a bit of a seige.
So if I suggest an Earl visit, please remind me of all this........(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4447372529407716780?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Accurate Weather Forecast? (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/accurate-weather-forecast.html)
22 May 2011, 1:32 pm
Dry days- 77
Days of rain- 65
The forecasts said rain overnight, then today would be dry. After liaising with BeardyBeast we opted to have a look at Ilkley. It was sunny, but very windy when we arrived. We had a look at Chariots of Fire Eliminate again, although I'd totally forgotten my sequence and had to start again. After some time I did all the moves again, but it's still going to be a bugger for me to link.
BeardyBeast had 2 burns, falling on the last little bit. Then came the rain. We bailed and wandered over to Ron's Traverse, neither of us having looked at it. The rain stopped long enough to have a quick go, but then returned with a veangance and didn't go. We retired to the car to sip hot drinks from the cafe.
As an aside, there's been more chipping going on. Photos clickable for full size image.
"Hannah, James, Lauren, Faith, Jasper" on the Chariots of Fire Buttress- this has appeared in the last 72 hours.
"Here resting Susan Brown RIP" just left of Chariots Buttress.
"L. Copley" at the bottom of First Arete
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-154508202512812259?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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More Running (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/more-running.html)
24 May 2011, 7:20 pm
Dry days- 78
Days of rain- 66
The weather has been very variable- sun, wind rain. I was half thinking about about going out tonight, but wasn't convinced anything would be dry. As it was clear asnd sunny when I got home, it just felt wrong to go indoors to some hot sweaty chalk filled wall.
I decided to go for a run, especially as it's less than 9 weeks until the cross bay challenge. I did a shorter version of my last route and covered 12.2km in 1 hour 15 mins 50 seconds, pretty much 9.6kmh. I feel pretty good after it which is a nice change. I am still looking forward to this Cross Bay half marathon, but then if that goes OK then there's always longer runs. But that's a dangerous thought, marathons and all that. I will put that line of thought to one side for now.
I need to get bouldering again, still aims to acheive and 7C seems more elusive than ever. But let's stay positive and psyched, and belief will no doubt help move me in the right direction. A big up to The Coolboy for his recent 7B+ sends, effort!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2445647956605673873?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bad knees (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/bad-knees.html)
26 May 2011, 7:59 pm
Dry days- 78
Days of rain- 68
Crap weather continues!
I headedto West View after work. Schoolboy error- forgot drink and chalkbag. Luckily Nike Air was there, so after a brief chat (he had customers) he wangled me a chalk bag from lost property (thanks J) and I got down to work.
Basically I was shite. I failed to do the V6 that I failed on last time, doing the crux a few times before cocking it up. To add insult to injury my right foot popped off on one occasion sending my right knee into high speed impact with a hold. Ouch.
After this I did a few more V5s and below, then did all the moves on a V7 but ended up with sore skin. After 2 hours I left and headed home for a cold beer.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5834273188055598017?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Weak (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/weak.html)
28 May 2011, 3:08 pm
Dry days- 78
Days of rain- 70
Weather is still a bit duff. I had an hour this morning so went to Wet Poo, basically being a bit crap. I failed on the knee smasher V6.... again. And I flashed one of the new V5/6s in the cave. How does that work. Skin's sore now though.
I was potentially going up Silverdale way tomorrow/ Monday with the BeardyBeast, but we'll have to see what the sky sends our way.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5856538716530627425?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Pastures New (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/05/pastures-new.html)
30 May 2011, 8:18 pm
Dry days- 78
Days of rain- 72
This morning dawned wet, rain rain rain. So much for a Silverdale session. The Doc was heading out for a run this morning so I opted to do the same. I did a variation on the usual, chopping it down to 7-and-a-bit km, managing it in 41:03 (average of 10.5kmh). I think I will need to get more miles in before the Cross Bay Challenge.
This afternoon I went over to the BeardyBeast's, the original plan being to have a WoB session. Unfortunately, neither of us felt particularly up to that so after a brew the plan morphed into a trip to Rokt in Brighouse. After registration, we had a wander round the place- it's quite big and has quite a few rooms and a comp board. The comp board felt hard to me, it's pretty steep really. I managed to flash a V6 in one of the rooms (but it wasn't really V6, more like V4) and did one of BeardyBeast's yellow problems second go, although it wasn't V7 for someone of my height. But don't tell him I said it was easier for the tall, we'll never hear the end of it.
Funny wall really, lots of potential but rather dark- lighting needs sorting, you're either blinded or can't see- and some rooms are cramped meaning a lot of waiting for others to finish their problem. But it's nice to go somewhere new.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5105019059125933656?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Revisiting the Nemesis (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/06/revisiting-nemesis.html)
1 June 2011, 7:40 pm
Dry days- 79
Days of rain- 73
Well, today it was dry so I went to Almscliff. I warmed up on the Keel, and after a bit of memory bank searching I remembered my sequence. I managed to do it from the start to the chip, and from the chip to missing the pocket. The right toe locky thingy didn't feel as secure as it used to, and I was still just getting tips in the pocket.
I tried Underhand, which felt harder than I remember. Then Ed's Dyno, which felt like 7a and I was getting a hand on the top, why I didn't do it I don't know. I finally managed that stupid polished 6c/+ traverse on the same block. Then a brief look at Silver Trout reminded me I couldn't do it.
A similar story with Demon Wall Roof. I can easily get the high crimp, but then switching to the undercut and moving feet into the roof is impossible. Disillusioned and with a bit of Font elbow (left) I moved on.
I looked at Hunter stones, which hurt my skin so I ran away with tail firmly between legs and headed for home.
I stopped of at Calf Crag, did Cookie Monster to a top out made entirely of scrittle. Then failed on the 7a+ round the wat, although it looks to have lost a pebble. So that was that.
Video to follow, too much brandy to drink to do any editing ;-)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8868236186676380554?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Cookie Monster's good isn't it!
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Yup, but didn't top it out so no tick. Needs a brush.
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Video Update (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/06/dry-days-80-days-of-rain-76-few-bits.html)
4 June 2011, 5:10 pm
Dry days- 80
Days of rain- 76
A few bits from Wednesday, plus the unfinished project. May head back there tomorrow with the Ginnster and have another look.
Bits and Bobs (http://vimeo.com/24646421) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2738960025483022706?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Progress? (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/06/progress.html)
5 June 2011, 7:00 pm
Dry days- 80
Days of rain- 77
I had a couple of hours this morning. I had planned a Silverdale trip, but when the Ginnster became free from 9-11 I had opted for somewhere more local, probably Cadshaw. This morning I got up to find it was pissing down hence Silverdasle was out, so we opted to look at Snakey B wall which often stays dry in the rain. When we got there at 9am, after fighting past a cycle race, we found the rain was driving in the wrong direction and nothing was dry. Soaked and demoralised, we left adn opted to risk a Cadshaw visit.
We got even more soaked on the way in, but when we arrived the Red Wall was dry!! The Pasty Lord had a look at Brian Jacques, coming pretty close to holding the crux move again- very body position dependent. I had a little look at one of my other projects (viz RoB sitter into Jump Arete). I did Jump Arete first try, still a funny problem. I also managed the individual moves for RoB sit start. Then I managed the jump from the RoB crimps to the Jump Arete jug, only taking some skin off. The final move was the transition from the original RoB to the slap to the jug, which means moving the left foot 12 inches to the right. This is a body tension move, but after a few methods I found a way of doing this move. So, all the moves done. I had a try at linking it today but it wasn't to be. My left ring finger was still numb after the day I did RoB anyway, that foul crack hold is nasty, but it's even more numb now.
Ah, well- I know I can do this. It feels a bit harder than RoB, probably still 7B+ though. All I need to do is go back again to try the link, if the rain holds off that is.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7718225604257804608?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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A Decision (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/06/decision.html)
6 June 2011, 8:39 pm
Dry days- 81
Days of rain- 77
For the last 12 years I've made decisions affecting peoples' lives, and their deaths. Today I made a decision.
A 74 year old, terminally ill. No quality of life. Lying in bed, aware, but tired of it all and unwilling to engage. The eyes still see. But a shadow, a shell of the former formidable, strong self. Where has all the power, the strength, the humour, gone?
A phone call from the consultant in ENT. A professional conversation. What do I want to do from here? Carry on with drip feeding of fluids, PEG nutrition- keeping the shell alive?
"No. Put him on the end of life pathway". The voice is clear. Calm. The sentiment truly meant.
But this isn't just some patient. The link goes beyond this. This is a father. My father. The one that raised me. The one that made me, well, me.
I know I am right, the decision is sound. He would hate to be sustained as a shell. He deserves more, I know this and I know my words ring true. But in the same breath death is condemned. I have decided for him- to die, not to live.
That feels odd. Unsettling. I am confident, but nausea is there. Power over life. Death. What is my right in all this? The correct decision, surely? But it means death. A quandary.
I write this knowing that in a few days a busy, and emotional, period of my life will begin. Is this cathartic? Therapeutic? No, not really. It just feels hollow.
I made a decision today.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-209606864972550391?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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I don't envy your position at all, and my greatest fear is what you face now. Wishing good luck isn't appropriate, my thoughts are with you though.
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Thats one awful situation to have been/be in. Thoughts with you too.
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Not much to add, G. What Tomtom Said.
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A brave decision G. Thoughts are with you.
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2/3/1937- 8/6/2011 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/06/231937-862011.html)
8 June 2011, 6:53 pm
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/11GarethandDad.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6813147403087442952?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Aeon Session (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/06/aeon-session.html)
12 June 2011, 12:22 pm
Dry days- 86
Days of rain- 78
I had 90 minutes at Fairy Steps today, bit of a wind down after days of house clearing and getting forms/ certificates sorted.
I tried this when BeardyBeast crushed it ages ago, couldn't touch it at all. MOre recently on a day when I saw Johnny G in his car near Trowbarrow I managed all but one of the moves. Today it felt sweaty and greasy. I got the moves done individually, including the one I'd failed on before (the slap to the final sidepull form the undercut). I had a go at trying to link it. I managed to get from the start to the undercut but the next two moves are going to be the stoppers for me. It's a pretty powerful problem, but I think i can do it. Like Poison, it's one I just need to work at to link it, and then get my 7C tick in 2011. Hmmmm.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1470359993290381610?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Busy day (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/06/busy-day.html)
14 June 2011, 7:10 pm
Dry days- 88
Days of rain- 78
Yesterday I ran home from work in the scorching heat: 9.38km in 56:31. Felt ok actually.
Today I cleared my Dad's attic and went to see the solicitor. Then some dick nearly ran into the back of me on the motorway near Leeds.
May try to get to Cadshaw for an hour tomorrow.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6279055393353304028?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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man, the position you found yourself in with your father represents everyone's worst nightmares.
my thoughts are with you.
the pic is very touching.
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Fickle Conditions (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/06/fickle-conditions.html)
16 June 2011, 7:22 pm
Dry days- 89
Days of rain- 79
After work I headed to Cadshaw for another crack at the projects. I was disappointed to find that the wall felt very greasy. There were also a lot of midges, and they were hungry.
After a while I was still pinging off the sloping edges. Finally I linked from the sit to the foot swap before the dyno to the jug, and fucked it up. I never got as far again.
With better conditions I know I can do this. The moves feel harder than anything I've been on recently, including Aeon/ Poison etc, and there's a few of them.. At my limit- well, beyond it until the day it all clicks into place.
Thanks to everyone's comments/ e-mails/ texts recently. It is appreciated.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8881554905355200158?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Another One Down (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/06/another-one-down.html)
19 June 2011, 12:44 pm
Dry days- 91Days of rain- 80Drizzle this morning, so once more the Aeon plan was shelved. I wonder where may be dry when it's drizzling, somewhere overhanging with some tree cover maybe.Cadshaw was indeed dry. A bit greasy unfortunately, and very much midge infested. The crux today was not so much pulling harder, but resisting the onslaught of the midge. My envisigaed project felt hard again, I wasn't getting very good links on it today, although I did each move and refined the footwork. Then I noticed a foothold I hadn't looked at before and realised my original sequence for Jump Arete sitter was back on.It took quite some time to do this, but then when I did it felt OK. Although I tried to then film the start from a different angle and took ages to do the move again. I had originally thought this would be 7b/+, and seemingly R-Man had thought similar. Since it felt OK today, I'll go with 7a+ for the moment.After this I managed to repeat Brian Jacques via R-Mans's original sequence, which is about the same difficulty as the Lanky sequence once you get the body positioning right.So there you have it- another project done, and only 2 more to go at Cadshaw- I just need it to be less greasy.On a seperate note, the new Peak guide arrived on Friday and it's brill- inspired to get back and try some stuff! Oh, and I'm ober half way through War and Peace now- hurrah.Jump Arete SDS first ascent (http://vimeo.com/25305795) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2587697286896131454?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Keep it up with War and Peace, it just gets better and better. I found by half way I had a real momentum too.
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Rick Fell Over (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/06/rick-fell-over.html)
21 June 2011, 9:37 pm
Dry days- 92
Days of rain- 81
After work I headed to Cadshaw to meet up with BeardyBeast and the Ginnster. BeardyBeast had brought some ladders for the arete project. We wandered in to the Red Wall, aware it was humid and still.
Red Wall wasn't in good nick. Everything felt greasy and nasty. Basically, I did Brian Jacques and Jump Arete and BeardyBeast did Jump Arete. He also suggested a different sequence for RoB going right had to the left hand sloping crimp then throw to the high edge. This felt a bit easier, 7B, but also felt more like a crap version of Brian Jacques avoiding certain holds rather than being the centre of the wall. The Ginnster didn't do Brian Jacques, his fear of success got in the way. The midges ate us.
We used BB's ladder to clean the "bnreak" on the Arete Project, then failed to make any progress on it due to grease. One to come back to. Did I mention neither Pasty Lord nor Beardy Beast did Brian Jacques?
Once anaemic from the midges we wandered back to the Small Quarry. BeardyBeast and I did Great War of France, or whatever the hell it's called. The Ginnster didn't, he did a variation that used big holds 10 feet off line. Then he fell over. We all looked at the Atom Rush, which felt greasy, off balance and a bit committing (sloping landing dontchaknow) so that wasn't done today.
After this we headed home. What an evening. Quite amazing. Although the Ginnster fell over. Fairy Steps tomorrow?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8152953214082082047?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Frustration (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/06/frustration.html)
22 June 2011, 7:24 pm
Dry days- 92
Days of rain- 82
I felt pretty tired this morning after the Cadshaw Crush Fest. It rained all morning, but by 9am it brightened up so I opted for a look at Silverdale.
On my way up it pissed it down again. Brill. I decided to give Trowbarrow a go. Walking in I was surrounded by a cloud of mosquitos, and when I got there the Shelterstone was seeping. It was nice to see that some kind soul had taken a shit next to to Vitruvian Man, makes the landing even more fun. Asshole. I had a couple of half arsed goes on a damp Pit Problem, no chance. Vitruvian was also wet- the right toe hook was piss wet. I had a few goes at the Crouch method- right foot on and slap. I was getting the hold but failing to keep the right foot on the wet hold.
I looked at the Buccaneer, getting the lip but not getting anywhere near holding it. One to come back to.
I was annoyed by this time. I drove home, ate a Twirl and growled for 10 minutes. Then I went for a run. I managed 13km in 1:14:51, average of 10.4km/h. Still a bit to do in the next 4 weeks before the Cross bay death run.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8525888023945930334?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Too Hot For Me (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/06/too-hot-for-me.html)
27 June 2011, 9:04 pm
Dry days- 94
Days of rain- 85
It's been hot, today was awful- humid and hot.
Sunday came and was superheated and muggy, with drizzle here and there for good measure. Bottom line? I couldn't be arsed going out and suffereing in shit conditions.
Today was even hotter, but it looked like rain tonight so I went for a run. I did my 7km route, if the app is right (which I doubt) I did it in a shade under 30 minutes. Whatever the time I was hot and very tired.
4 weeks or so until the cross bay challenge. I pray it's cooler on the day or I'll be dead before I start!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-779998103291337459?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Motivational Awesomeness Innit (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/07/motivational-awesomeness-innit.html)
3 July 2011, 12:08 pm
Dry days- 99
Days of rain- 86
I was going to go out today, but it's hot and energy sapping. Psyche was low and when push came to shove, my get up and go got up and went. I'm useless when it's hot, it makes me tired and grumpy.
The weather is supposed to break by Tuesday, so I may brave the midges tomorrow.
I'm off to lie down.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6515904846268577918?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Go have a cold shower you Grumpian.
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I had cold beer instead. :pissed:
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I hate summer, and summer hates me.
You're a GP G, can hay fever be fatal?
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Only when you sneeze your colon out of your nose.
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Only when you sneeze your colon out of your nose.
Achoo... :
Sorry.
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Very good.... (http://sadtrombone.com/)
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Horse Flies (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/07/horse-flies.html)
5 July 2011, 10:34 am
Dry days- 100
Days of rain- 87
Last night I went to Cadshaw again. Red Wall was greasy, and Mighty Mouse tore my skin. The Midges were bearable, but the addition of a cloud of horse flies was not. needless to say I ran away pretty quickly, and headed over to Cadshaw Castle Rocks.
I filmed the short arete sitter I did a while ago as well as Cadger, one of Ollie Mueller's problems from back in the day.
I carried on up the slab above this to the higher break, with a sketchy sequence higher up. With this it became a nicely sustained font 6B, with evil polished holds. I'll get the video up at some point.
I tried the left side of my arete sitter which will be a one move wonder, but I couldn't pull on so went home.
It's rained a bit today, but still hot. Let's see what the rest of the week brings. Should be up in Glasgow for the weekend, may wander up a hill.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4977006683199659511?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Wander up to Aberdonut.
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How long are you there, Nemo?
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Until mid-August probably.
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Rain and Running (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/07/rain-and-running.html)
6 July 2011, 9:15 pm
Dry days- 100
Days of rain- 88
It pissed down today, thunmder too. After sorting children tonight I went for a run, did the local 7k in 37:54- I seem to be getting the average up to 11kmh.
The Ginnster went to Cadshaw. I await tales of amazing success and general awesomeness.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3312394748758244402?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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And falling over.
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Mighty (Mouse) Failure (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/07/dry-days-97-days-of-rain-86-i-went-to.html)
1 July 2011, 9:52 pm
Dry days- 97
Days of rain- 86
I went to Cadshaw tonight. There were so many midges it was hard to breathe. I totally failed on my RoB-Jump Arete project. I made some progress on the Arete project. I did all but one of the moves on Mighty Mouse too, painful though it is. After an hour I was so bitten to death that I ran away.
Still projects to do.......(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8884440111499257969?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Munros and Pounding the Streets (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/07/munros-and-pounding-streets.html)
12 July 2011, 7:59 pm
Dry days- 103
Days of rain- 91
Back from a long weekend away. The Doc and I went up to Scotland on Friday, having a wander around Glasgow on the Friday, finding out all the nice shops etc that aren't there anymore, and going for tea at the Ubiquitous Chip, and a pint at Jinty's afterwards. Saturday we met up with MadMac and family, and wandered up to the Whangie in the blazing sun, then takeaway curry.
Sunday the Doc and I took advantage of the Grosvenor's cooked breakfast before driving up to Arrochar for a wander. The midges were out in force, and the Doc wasn't too impressed at this. We headed up the Cobbler path, then over to the direct path up the ridge to Ben Narnain. The weather wasn't too bad, cloud base below the summit. After the summit, we headed back down to the bealach to the Cobbler in the rain, then headed back down past the Narnain boulders (which looked so so).
Today I was back at work, and finished at 18:30. When I got home I went for a run managing 14.7km in 1:26:37, averaging 10.2kmh which I was quite pleased with. 12 days until the Cross bay Challenge!!
I may head to Healey Nab tomorrow, the Ginnster went there today and CRUSHED!!!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4991746935348098195?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Projects Remain (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/07/projects-remain.html)
13 July 2011, 8:59 pm
Dry days- 104
Days of rain- 91
I had a spare couple of hours this afternoon and having been reminded of Healey Nab I decided to head up there.
It was hot. Really hot. By the time I'd walked up to The Nab I was sweating. I did the usual problems, then failed utterly on R-man's Double Dutch. Then I set to work on my project right of DD. I had always tried it by going LH to a sidepull, then pop to the top. Today I tried it as an all out dyno- undercuts to top. I was getting pretty close, but it isn't skin friendly and eventually I had to leave.
I've finally done the Cadshaw video, here it is. My own Cadswallop and Olly Mueller's Cadger. Good problems.
Cadshaw castle Rocks Bouldering (http://vimeo.com/26398487) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-30172145691543064?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Il pluet (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/07/il-pluet.html)
18 July 2011, 8:19 am
Dry days- 105
Days of rain- 95
Well, the weather crapped out and it's been really wet the last couple few days. Whilst this is nice as it has been too hot and humid, it has the disadvantage of my projects being wet for a while now.
I went to Wet Poo yesterday afternoon, conscious of the fact I haven't climbed for what seems like an eternity. I made the schoolboy error of rushing in and climbing lots of problems and not resting, resulting in a perpetual pump that lasted the two hours I was there. Add this to the heat in the climbing hall, and it was a recipe for crush.
On the positive side, I managed to flash most of the V5s on the right three boards, and flashed one of the V6s. I have to say this set feels softer than previous, so I'll take that performance with a pinch of salt.
I'm off work today and tomorrow, but the forecast is gash again so I may not get anything done. Plenty to be going at on the job front- need to sort out what I'll be doing in a couple of weeks, plus all the paperwork that is required. I may go for a run later, I'll see how I feel.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8433492614837531758?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Grit Rash (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/07/grit-rash.html)
19 July 2011, 7:10 pm
Dry days- 105
Days of rain- 96
Damn this weather!! Today I was going to go to Thorn as the forecast was for dryness. I was out quite early and when I was driving up the M6 at 9am, in the drizzle. It dried up as I headed North but on the way over to Thorn the cloud was down on the tops. I realised the walk would be a waste of a day, so plan B had to be formed. Options? Well 1. exposed Lime, which means either Farleton or Newbiggin. Option 2 would be free standing grit- Thorn or Windy Clough.
I went for option 2. It drizzled a bit on the walk in, so when I got to the rocks they were wet. But not as wet as my shoes and socks. Balls. I sat and late my lunch (at 10:30) and waited. It stopped drizzling and after a while the rock dried off. As an aside the rock up here is getting quite worn, the slopers sdeem either over brushed or well used.
I had a crack at Country for Old Men which was pretty much dry by this point. It took a good number of goes to get the move- it's basically a one mover from two shit edges to a good flatty. I found I needed to use a foot jam for all it was worth to even pull on. After this I moved up to Live Evil, although the arete hold was damp. This went quite quickly, so it was time for a look at Mr. Owl ate my Metal Worm. It took me a while working out a sequence between the crack and the finish- eventually I just did it as a flop move. It took a handful of goes to link it, the last move spitting me off a couple of times due to scrittle.
I was getting tired by now, but I had a look at the two mat boulder. I did the 6b+ wall second go, then failed on the wet groove. At this point I sacked it off and headed back to meet the Doc for a coffee. On the way there were a few pheasant chicks in the verge, but as I passed mother pheasant flew out of the hedge and under my wheels. Orphans created I guess, and I feel a bit bad about that but there's not a lot I can do now.
Windy Clough Revisited (http://vimeo.com/26630879) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-61382891007277244?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Shit! Two tonnes of metal heading quickly towards me! I'd best fly in front of it.
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You bastard pheasant killer, Wallis! :spank:
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Sore skin (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/07/sore-skin.html)
21 July 2011, 9:32 pm
Dry days- 106
Days of rain- 97
Tonight I went to West View with the BeardyBeast, Pasty King being in Belgium. I was there a good 40 minutes before the Bearded One, so warmed up and then looked at some of the stuff I failed on last visit.
I managed to do two V6s first go, then flashed a couple more V5s. Beardy Beast flashed everything. Once he'd done everything twice we had a chocolate break, then I struggled to do more problems. I ended up climbing for 2 3/4 hours, and my skin is trashed.
Half marathon in 3 days. Knee's a bit sore, but hopefully it should be OK. 2 1/2 hour target to hit!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8050357727215141037?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Cross Bay Challenge (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/07/cross-bay-challenge.html)
24 July 2011, 5:03 pm
Today I did the Cross Bay Challenge- the half Marathon across Morecambe bay. I can't recommend it enough. Unique environment, lively running surfaces which vary a lot, wading through channels etc. Awesome!
I felt pretty good for the run. I was a little over an hour at the 7 mile point, so sub 2 hours was on. At 12 miles I was at 1:48 so it was still on. I tried to push it, the surfaces got more wet but thenthe finish was there. And I was very pleased to get it done in 1:59:30!!!
So what next? Hmmmm, maybe a longer distance?........(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2914526237029047915?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Thorn (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/07/thorn.html)
29 July 2011, 2:39 pm
Dry days- 112
Days of rain- 99
Today I headed out early and went to Thorn. To start with it was cloudy and cool, I was hopeful for decent conditions. I note the 3 car bay now has a "no parking" sign. I wandered up to Pit Stop, having a look at the direct through the roof. With a wedged right foot I was getting close to the good bit of the break by taking the left and off and popping up with the right. NO cigar today though, although I did lose a decent amount of skin.
Next I headed up to Monster Minds, which seems a cool problem. I did all the moves but the slap to the RH ear- every time I tried this I got cramp in my right calf when trying to heel hook!! It's still sore now. I wandered up to the crag, skin being pretty rubbish by now I didn't bother putting my boots on, although I did admire A Moment Of Clarity:
I went to try Bad Moon Rising but I found the flake was in a right state, eroded but more worryingly flexing significantly. It's only held on by the area on the left and I doubt it'll last much longer- therefore I walked on by and went to The Mothership area. I had a look at Yule Jewel, how the hell you pull on I still can't fathom. By now it was hot, I was tired and my skin was suffering. I did a load of the easier problems, then headed home. 2 more days at work then I'll have no plans for most of August, thanks to LaSCA and their paperwork.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5667383426796272302?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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So what next? Hmmmm, maybe a longer distance?........
It's the Ironman (http://www.ironmanuk.com/ironman-uk/home) this Sunday in Bolton....
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I know, half the roads around us are closed.
I can't swim for shit, so triathlons are out!
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Skinless Wonder (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/08/skinless-wonder.html)
1 August 2011, 8:17 am
Dry days- 114
Days of rain- 100
Another hot weekend. The Family Doc and I headed to Brimham yesterday. I had a look at The Lost World (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=brimham__unnamed_1#photo;n=0). I wasn't sure if the flatty out right was in, so avoided it. I was getting the lip OK with a low left smear and a right toe hook, but couldn't pull enough to then match the lip. Looking at the pics on YG, Big Frank uses a heel which wasn't possible starting the way I was. Basically I tried it RH to lip then a blind dyno to the hole, which I nearly held a few times- nearly meaning I ended up with holes in a couple of tips and subsequently filed it in the "another day" folder.
I did a fair few easy problems around the Pommel, but it was scorching so eventually we just went for a wander and a coffee.
Raining today, which means my skin has a little rest. As of Wednesday I should have some free time to get out. Also planning a weekend in Scotland to try to up the Munro numbers before starting work in September.
Oh, and there's also a dodgy pic from the Cross Bay challenge now online, credits to Boswell Photography.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4557357529205353242?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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In the picture where Frank has his hands under the roof and his heel on the ramp/edge.you need to get a heel/toe about a foot higher make sure you get it in well secure, flag with your left foot. If you are tall and you are, you can go to the lip then slap to the hole.Shorties have to hang the lip with both hands.
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I was avoiding the right hand flatty that Big Frank has in the pic, meaning I was starting matched where his left hand is- this meant getting a heel on was impossible, never mind a heel toe.
I'll know for next time.
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I think that the true anal locals start is right hand on rib,left on sloper,match sloper then to that left hand hold.
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I pull on matched at the back on that sidepull and shit crimp, whack a heel on the flatty, and toe-hook on the flake. I can't then remember whether I match or not (but I don't think I do).
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Nice picture.
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W.O.F.T. (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/08/woft.html)
4 August 2011, 4:29 pm
Dry days- 116
Days of rain- 101
This morning I drove to Preston and did battle with LaSCA, although to be fair they seemed OK with my completion of their 38 page form and have now told me I am allowed to work. This news was a bit double edged, as I had quite looked forward to a month of enforced workshyness, and thus more bouldering. Needless to say the Doc was pleased. As I was in Preston, and done by 11:30, I thought I'd pop to West View.
The lady on the desk cheerfully took my 6 pounds, without mention that the freestanding boards were all being reset. I've said it before but the lack of a sign and being charged full price when only a small part is available is annoying. Cracked record, I be, yes.
Aaaanyway, I did most of the problems in the cave, which was hot and crowded. After an hour I'd had enough, and had done any problems I was likely to do, so I bailed. I popped into Tesco to get some stuff for tea, I'd planned to do lamb kidneys in red wine- and got asked for ID for the bottle of red wine I was trying to buy. I was quite taken aback, as was the checkout girl when she realised I'm 34. I'll assume it must be my youthful good looks.
After this I decided to go for a run, but it was so humid and hot I opted for the shortest local route, 4.66km in 25:45 (the usual 10.9kmh average). Now I have cooled down and showered, I'm sat with a beer and about to read War and Peace, up to page 1058 now.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-9190744903260474210?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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I love this blog. I often find myself reading it in Victoria Wood or Alan Bennett's voice.
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I love this blog. I often find myself reading it in Victoria Wood or Alan Bennett's voice.
:lol: I can't get Victoria Woods voice out my head now...
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I love this blog. I often find myself reading it in Victoria Wood or Alan Bennett's voice.
:lol: I can't get Victoria Woods voice out my head now...
Thats better than trying to get her out of your bed...
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CyL (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/08/cyl.html)
6 August 2011, 9:36 pm
Dry days- 117
Days of rain- 102
Rain today. I was going to head to Wet Poo with Doc Jnr 1, but when we arrived at 19:05 we found the wall now shuts at 19:00. Perfect. We went for a look at Longridge, which was mostly dry. Doc Jnr 1 did some stuff at the left end. I did all the moves on Kiss The Razor's Edge, one to head back for. I had one go at Bog Marine and it didn't feel far off getting the RH pocket. Then it was time for home.
May have to go back for some more failure..............
PS I'm gutted that it seems Fairy Steps access is getting a bit awkward. I had plans to nail Aeon, assholes!!!!!!!!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7190016323719455248?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Is Aeon not in the OK bit?
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No, the ok bit is either side of the Steps themselves, which are on the upper tier over to the right.
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The Power of Flapjack (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/08/power-of-flapjack.html)
8 August 2011, 7:52 pm
Dry days- 117
Days of rain- 104
I met up with the Pasty King at West View after work. I got there a bit early, and as i hadn't had tea I bought and scoffed a flapjack.
When the Ginnster arrived we went about the Crush, warming uop by flashing some V0-V2 problems. Mental. Then I managed to flash 4x V5s and a V5/6, stupidly dropping a blue V6 on the flash and doing it second go.
It was all downhill from there, we did most of the stuff up to V4 and we were then pretty done in. We were inspired by 2 kids leading, must have been 8 and 12 or something, but they were zipping up 6b+ routes with no fear. Superb to see!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1209081417520617109?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Wet Pooh Again (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/08/dry-days-118-days-of-rain-107-r-man-has.html)
12 August 2011, 6:18 pm
Dry days- 118
Days of rain- 107
R-man has returned from the antipodes, and has not hung about- he's cleaned and climbed some cool looking lines in Wilton One. I had planned to get out today but the ongoing drizzle put pay to that. Plan B was Wet Poo, and after liaising with R-man I went there for 3pm. R couldn't make it until 5, and in the end our paths didn't cross.
It was hot at the wall. Really hot. After warming up I was sweating buckets. In the end I manages to flash another V6, and got all the moves on another three of them. I did most if thebother V5s I hadn't dine already. After two hours I had to give up due to heatstroke. Not too bad a session. (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6788186749041344873?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Flappers (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/08/flappers.html)
17 August 2011, 9:38 pm
Dry days- 119
Days of rain- 112
I had dropped in at Brownstones on Saturday, but not a lot was dry so I ended up doing a few eliminatea on the Nexus Wall.
Today I headed back for a short session. I started off with Ridiculous Dyno, something I did ages ago but have never managed to repeat for the HD camera. It took a good while to nail it today, but the time I did it I got a good sized flapper on my little finger. I had a few goes at The Unjust Dyno, but it was too hot for any serious tries.
I had a 2 goes at Hank's Wall which now feels a lot harder due to hold loss. I couldn't even get the RH razor edge, so I'm not sure I'll be able to do this in future.
After this I dropped into Wilton One, failed on The Move and had a brief visual inspection of R-Meister's new stuff. It was a bit wet today, but looks worthy of another visit when dry.
Dyno video to follow.......(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8204968771208560092?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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More hold loss on Hank's?
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The big foothold I used to stand on to get the razor is much smaller. R-man outside edges it with his left, but I used it for my right toe and had left toe on a smaller edge out left that snapped a while back.
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Ah, that went a few years ago didn't it. Nothing new then thankfully!
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Not tried it for a couple of years. Certainly makes my method a LOT harder :'(
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you'll have to learn how to climb it as opposed to reaching past the holds :jab: ;)
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Ridiculous Video (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/08/ridiculous-video.html)
18 August 2011, 2:25 pm
Ridiculous Dyno (http://vimeo.com/27855014) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4956150573642925466?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rained off (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/08/rained-off.html)
18 August 2011, 8:40 pm
Dry days- 119
Days of rain- 113
Went to Wilton One with mr Pasty. It rained. We did Clamp and the 6b Fly variant, then it rained more so we retreated to the Snakey B wall. I did SB left Hand and Baby Fae. Then it it rained more so we left.
Bloody weather!!!!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-9078321550561101971?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Back Again (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/08/back-again.html)
19 August 2011, 1:36 pm
Dry days- 120
Days of rain- 113
I headed back to Wilton One this morning for another scout. I initially went to the Pit, failing miserably to pull onto The Postman's Daughter sitter, I can't even get my arse off the floor!! Then the midges ate me so I ran away to the Prow where there was a breeze.
I did the easier stuff again, then lost skin on Yoga For Climbers before trying it as a dyno from the first hold. This will go, tough move though as you starhttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gift on small flatties with high feet- feels like you'll blast off backwards.
Once my skin was dead, I headed back to the car- but on the way I noticed a dirty arete right of Remembrance Corner and thought I'd try it. It took ages to clean but eventually it was in a condition to try. I had a go from a standing start, and latched the last move 5th go, unfortunately re-opening my flapper from the other day. Felt about font 6c, but it may be easier when properly clean. There is a sitter which I didn't try due to bleeding, so I may head back at some point. It'll go on its left too I expect.
EDIT: R-man and Binks did that arete previously (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4435.msg59528.html#msg59528). It must get dirty prettyu fast!!
Wilton (http://vimeo.com/27904162) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2051935578232738997?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bumbling (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/08/bumbling.html)
22 August 2011, 3:54 pm
Dry days- 123
Days of rain- 113
After a weekend near Matlock with The Doc and kids, we headed to Cratcliffe for an hour. The first thing I did was get stung on my arm by a wasp. I hate them.
I was feeling low on energy, everything felt hard. And it was perfect grit weather- hot, sunny and humid. I did Razor Roof second try, dropping the top on the first try. I did most of the other problems here, apart from Razor Arete. Then we had a bumble at the Clifftop Boulders and I did a few of the easier problems.
And then it was time to head back. I'm off to the Cairngorms this coming weekend, big days on the hills planned if the weather allows. Fingers crossed.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5093552540697349001?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Banking (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/08/banking.html)
23 August 2011, 10:12 am
Dry days- 124
Days of rain- 113
Today I had planned a Birthday trip to Woodwell, and I was pretty psyched to get back on Screaming Slave. Unfortunately, it was not to be as I had a phone call from ther ex this morning which resulted in me spending the day running around the banks.
I've now got a vague plan sussed for the weekend, consisting of all the Cairnwell tops plus the Macdui 3 and then Braeriach to Devil's Point. Big days, I hope my legs can deliver!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7796477510858883117?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Hill Strolling (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/08/hill-strolling.html)
26 August 2011, 7:43 pm
Dry days- 126
Days of rain- 114
I had big plans for this weekend- the Doc was in New York, so I had 4 days to play. I had made an itinery for these 4 days which would tick 15 Munros, sleeping in the back of the Big Car and drinking beer.
Yesterday I dropped the Doc and friends at Manc Aerodrome at 6am, them popped back to pack stuff before heading North. I arrived at Glen Shee before 2pm. Buoyed up by a Tesco Cheese and Onion pasty thing (Sorry Rick) I stomped up The Cairnwell, then Carn a'Gheoidh and finally Carn Aosda. The weather was nice, I felt good and I was back at the car in 2 hours and 40 minutes. I drove towards Braemar until I spotted a nice layby, and stopped. I read 20 pages of Anna Karenina, drank 4 cans of Stella and ate a bowl of chilli I made yesterday. After this I bedded down in the boot having set the alarm for 5am.
5am came to the sound of rain. I looked out the window and decided to get another hour's sleep.
6am arrived- it was drying up, still some drizzle and mist but better. I ate some Weetabix then drove round to Inverey. After putting the Stella casns in the recycling I got going at 7am on the 8km cycle up Glen Ey. Now, I am no cyclist and my ass aches as I type. There was another guy and his dog that set off before me, although he seemed pretty quick.
It was pretty clear initially, and it took me an hour to get to the Altanour ruin. I dumped the bike and started walking. I was planning to follow the McNeish route, but as thunder was forecast later on I decided to reverse the route, so if I had to bail the remaining hills were accessible without repeating the cycle.
The stomp up Carn Bhac was hard- shin deep heather, bog and midges. I also ended up going over the summit of Cam Creagach, which needlessly added 300m of ascent. It took 90 minutes to get to Carn Bhac from the ruin, but it all looked calm at this point.
Next up was a bog march. Very tiring, sucking bog for 5km. And then it started to rain- gently at first so I put on my waterproof jacket. I took a direct line (read: miserable slog) straight up to the Beinn Iutharn Mhor ridge. At the point the heavens opened and with 60 seconds my trousers were soaked. I sprinted to the cairn where I took some shelter and put my waterproof trousers on then ate some lunch.
The guy I had seen leaving Inverey appeared at this point, going clockwise. It transpired he does mountain marathons, explains a lot. I headed down to traverse around to Carn an Righ but as I got to Mam nan Carn the torrential rain turned to hail, then rain, then hail. This I wasn't too bothered about despite being like a drowned rat. What was more of an issue was the repeated bolts of lightning hitting Cam Creagach summit. Rolls of thunder were all around and I turned tail and headed down. It was 6km back to the bike, then an ass murdering 8km back to the Big Car and the rain didn't let up for a second. The cycle back was through standing water, biut I was so wet by then it didn't matter. The cycle back was much easier than the approach, and the whole trip had taken 6 1/4 hours.
At the car I dismantled the bike and shoved it in the car, then stripped and changed. MWIS said that there would be high gales for tomorrow with difficulty walking on the hills. As it was still early, I decided to bail. I managed to get home on the remaining diesel, getting 500 miles from one tank.
So here I am drinking Stella and about to cook up the last of the chilli- may have chips this time. Then it's shower and bed.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4801292243871051147?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Good effort anyway, G.
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Drizzle and WoR (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/09/drizzle-and-wor.html)
14 September 2011, 7:46 pm
Dry days- 131
Days of rain- 124
I headed up to Woodwell today, after chatting to Weak Sam yesterday (he mentioned the left crimp on AOSD looks like it has been chipped). It was pretty drizzly all morning, but started drying up towards midday. I couldn't be bothered with the Wall, so I opted to risk an outdoor trip.
WoR, if I had theoretically gone there, would have been dry but a little greasy. If I'd tried climbing there I would have written the following account:
I had a look at Deal in Pain. It didn't take long to suss what was required. The sitter into the RH hand undercut was easy, a sneaky left hand sidepull/ undercut thing helped sort the feet to get the left hand edge static. The next two moves are the meat of the problem. I was getting a right foot lock in the obvious cup shaped hole, although the little spike was agony. This allowed me to slap the high right hand sidepull, and almost hold it. The limiting facgtor here was the amount of pain the footlock caused. Deal with the pain, too right. After this I had a brief look at Prohibition Exhibition, but my first failed slap suggested more than one mat was required. I did Australian Werewolf in Silverdale, then had a few more plays on Deal in Pain. Once the heel pain was too much, I left for home.
So, I'm off tomorrow afternoon so I may have a look at the Wiltons, there's still some newer R-Man problems I haven't tried. I'm hoping to get out a bit more from now on, now things are settling more. Been getting the itch the last few weeks when I've been busy!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4625722997166077623?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Wilton Two (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/09/wilton-two.html)
15 September 2011, 5:51 pm
Dry days- 132
Days of rain- 124
I had a spare hour, so what better way to spend it than in Wilton Two looking at R-Man problems. I looked at Purple Feel, which was in the sun and roasting. I managed the first couple of moves OK, but the move to get the left hand into the slot puzzled me. I never nailed this one.
The Down Low was in the shade and thus next up. I did it in a few goes, keeping the left heel on rather than spinning round to a right heel a la R-Meister. This then made me think about a lower start, from the left arete into The Down Low. I had a look but one move releasing a toe hook was hard to do. I got it done after numerous goes, felt about 7a to me. I did the left arete on its own at 6b, both aretes at 6b adn failed to do a slap to the apex at around 6c+/7a due to ruined skin- the arete is sharp!!
Sp once more, stuff to get back on. A day of heels 'n' toes.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4538915664701271979?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Should've gone to Woodwell (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/09/shouldve-gone-to-woodwell.html)
21 September 2011, 2:05 pm
Dry days- 134
Days of rain- 128
The weather has been pretty rubbish recently, and I'm on school run and therefore didn't have too long. I had originally planned to head to Woodwell, but in the end I went to Wilton One.
First up I had a look at the block in the hillside opposite the Prow as I'd never looked at it before. It yielded a nice wall problem at about 6b, tough first move. Then an arete on its left, about 5, and another wall round right of equal difficulty. I also did a nice dyno at about 6a, but a nice move.
After this I wandered past Remembarete, which was green and soaking, and ended up at the Prow. I did Get Your Font Tick Here, quite a nice set of moves, then had a couple of goes at Robin's dyno which I failed utterly on- I'm presuming he used a high right foot, but this put me well off balance. I got very close to the Yoga Dyno, frustrating, then did a little traverse across from here. At this point I managed to get a shard of glass stuck in my left index finger. It went in pretty deep and I had to pull it out with my teeth. It wouldn't stop bleeding, so I ended up calling it a day. I'll need to keep an eye on it as it's a prime wound for flexor sheath/ pulp space infection.
Crap little vid will no doubt follow soon.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7569028770965320023?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Video (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/09/video.html)
22 September 2011, 6:50 pm
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4658457190302312530?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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New Routing (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/09/new-routing.html)
28 September 2011, 7:08 pm
Dry days- 138
Days of rain- 131
This morning I met up with R-Man at the Wiltons for some looking-for-new-stuff action. We wandered through Wilton Four, which was wet, then Two (which was wet) and then to Three, which was half wet. In the end we headed to W1, which was also pretty wet.
We wandered down to the far left end, noting a couple of possible lines and doing some cleaning and tidying. Then we headed back to the Outside of the Prow. This was also fairly damp, but we had noted a couple of things to try and got to work.
The arete left of Fingernail went at around 6b- we had planned to do it on the right, but the logical line started on the right then skipped round left to the jug. We then looked at the wall to the right, which didn't get on with me. My right foot kept popping, so I tried a more direct using a foul LH sidepull that was only 2 tips and threatened pulley injury or laceraction. I gave up, but R-Man persevered and was ultimately successful using a typical R-Man sequence.
I looked at the wall further right, the stand up going at 6a+ ballpark. The sitter was an onvious challlenge, and a few minutes with a trowel flattened the ground and revealed a decent foothold. I sorted the moves, but it took time to link. Eventually Pocket Wall was born, it felt about 7a today but it was a little damp so take that with a pinch of salt. Still more to go back for, and then there's R-Man's guide.......
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2774524759981277410?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Arse (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/10/arse.html)
5 October 2011, 10:51 am
Dry days- 142
Days of rain- 134
The forecast was rubbish for today, but looked better out East. I hasd planned to head to the Cliff or Brimham, but this morning was breezy but dry with bright blue sky so I decided to save time driving and go to Silverdale.
As I headed North up the M6 the skies darkened and there was occasional drizzle. When I got there conditions were poor, I had a handful of goes on Screaming Slave but realised I was onto a hiding to nothing so left.
For some reason a lack of any motivation at all infected me. Despite the skies clearing as I headed back home, and the sky being bright and blue, I simply couldn't be arsed going out. So here I am, being grumpy and sitting inside. Fuck it.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7649644841867195718?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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I knew when I saw the thread title "Arse" it would be a post by you.
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:furious:
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Weakness and Sore skin (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/10/weakness-and-sore-skin.html)
11 October 2011, 4:10 pm
Dry days- 144
Days of rain- 138
At the weekend I finally managed to finish clearing my Dad's house, so I'm hoping I'll have a bit more free time soon. My day off seems to have coincided with crap weather etc recently and it seems an age since I've done much.
I've just been to West View, and it certainly shows evidence of my lack of recent activity. I was only there for an hour and a half, my skin was really sore pretty quickly. I didn't manage anything harder than V4 but had a reasonable session. It certainly felt a lot harder than it should!!
Off tomorrow, but the weather looks crap again so I may just wander up some Wainwrights or run. Not done any running since the Cross Bay, and I've got the Manchester Marathon next April.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2323840873426950755?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bog Stomping (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/10/bog-stomping.html)
13 October 2011, 12:48 pm
Dry days- 146
Days of rain- 140
Yesterday I was off until school pick up. The weather, typiclly, was foul. It was blowing an gale and absolutely chucking it down. I really didn't want to mooch about the house, so I ended up thinking of alternatives- and lighted upon my Wainwright books.
As a child I've done most of these hills with the now late parents, but never kept a record. I went through a phase of nipping up one or two hills on wet days a few years back, but got out of the habit. Fed up with getting nothing done, I jumped in the car and headed to Kentmere.
The roads in were bordering on flooded, with standing water everywhere- thank goodness for Quattro!- and the rivers were verging on bursting point. Walking up to the Garburn pass, the track was a river. From the summit of the pass I headed left and up to the summit of Sallows via a swim through ankle deep bog. No view at all here.
Looking cheerful on Sallows in the rain
After this a bog trot gently down and back up got me to Sour Howes, which consisted of mounds of bog that all appeared higher than the one you were stood upon, until you got there. After a stand off with some cows i had been up every mound to make sure I'd ticked the summit, then admired the view:
I retraced my steps towards Sallows, then skirted left where the path crosses the wall and headed back down to Garburn Pass. A gentle amble back down had me back at the car, a tad wet but pleased to have got out and done something. 2 hours round trip, including all the wandering over mounds at Sour Howes. Don't feel hill fit though. May see if MadMac wants to do some Munros this winter.
Looking towards Sallows from Sour Howes
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-402282535926009943?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Repeating (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/10/repeating.html)
15 October 2011, 6:12 pm
Dry days- 148
Days of rain- 140
I went back to the Wiltons today. I headed to Wilton 3 initially and had a look at the small roof, but it was in the shade and therefore cold and not the best place to warm up. I wandered across to Wilton 2, but there were some guys there shooting. I don't think they were part of the gun club as they parked outside the gate, evidently not having as key, and hadn't put a flag up. So because of the L255DEV boys, I sacked it off and went to Wilton One.
The Outside of the Prow was much drier than when I went with R-Man, so I had a look there. My own Pocket Wall Sitter went down quite easily, and felt more 6c in the dry. I then looked at Robin's Wall, and tried it using my original method. This time I was pulling on with the left hand nasty sidepull, then got a high RH to a shit sharp crimp. Then slap left to the obvious sloper crimp, sort feet and a crux slap to the finishing edge. Felt about 7a+ to me. After this I did the sitter to something R-man and I had looked at before but not really tried. This started off a big flatty, snatched up right to a sidepull and then another snatch to a higher sidepull. After this a tenuous high foot gained the finishing edge- 6b+ I felt.
After this I tried Midgesquito Crimpelopes, and was slapping up to the left hand crimp but never held it. I think this is one to go back to. Anyway, video:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1611903551167019453?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Brimham Revisited (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/10/brimham-revisited.html)
23 October 2011, 5:01 pm
Dry days- 152
Days of rain- 144
I forgot to mention about last Sunday. I had planned to meet R-Man for some new routing/ guide checking, but Sunday morning was a bit wet. I ended up heading to Lower Montcliffe to have a look at R-Man's new problem, but everything except for Bach was wet. I played on Back, but basically got spanked. Again. I think this is nails!! After this I ended up heading to Wet Pooh with my sore skin and managed to flash a few V5s, but still failed to tick anything harder. Sack o' cack.
Fast forward to today. Lord Pasty and I had opted to head to Brimham, the Doc and her SiL agreed to come along. When we arrived, we wandered to the Pommel area and found an in situ Ginnster. The ladies went for a wander, so I got my kit and proceded to be, erm, brilliant. The mist was down which didn't help, but I did Pommel to the top out, which was wet. Then I did Back Dog Arete to the top out, which was wet. Ginnster insisted on jamming his way up these aretes. We had a brief look at the hanging flake SDS, which felt impossible today.
We moved to the Hole in the World which had kicked my arse last time. This time I was armed with the heel/ toe beta. I was getting close to matching the lip, but then opted for method B: LANK!!!! Anyway, i managed it after a few more goes. And if anyone wants to claim it ain't 7a that way, then it should be downgraded and all you shorties can accept yout beta is duff ;-)
We then went over to Pair in a Cubicle, which is becoming a Nemesis. Today I was really close to nailing it, sliding off the final belly flop. Next time, when it's cold, I'll nail this sucker. Pasty Lord had a look at Murky Rib, and once he remembered he had feet nailed it very smoothly.
We all left after this, although as a NTS member I seem to have been given a parkign ticket. The Doc, SiL and I stopped off at The Bull at Broughton for a late lunch. I've never been, despite having eyed it up numerous times when driving past. The food was excellent, a little pricey but at least to the standard you'd expect at this level. Well worth a visit.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4047495111781637700?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bloody Weather (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/10/bloody-weather.html)
29 October 2011, 4:44 pm
Dry days- 155
Days of rain- 148
I had planned to head to Brimham today as Met Office said all was dryness. BeardyBeast was invited, but duly declined with the reasonable excuse that he is in Font. Git.
So I headed East this morning in the rain of Lancashire. Met Office still said dry o'er t'other side. At Colne it was still raining and the skies ahead didn't look promising. By Kelbrook it was still raining, and a quick check of Met Office now said rain all day at Brimham. Brilliant. So I turned round and came home.
After a trip out to Tesco (woohoo) I opted to go for a run. I haven't run since the Cross Bay, which was over 3 months ago. I didn't have a particular route, so I just set off at a gentle pace and listened to Van Halen. At 1 hour 15 my left knee stopped me, popliteus again i think, so I walked the last mile home. Looking it up I managed 12.4km, which isn't too bad I suppose.
Oh well, if this is grit season JB I ain't impressed.
As an aside, had some health news about a good friend of mine of 17 years- you know who you are, all the best for the op and the recovery. Thinking of you, mate.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4615309933130489673?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Ghost Goat (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/10/dry-days-156-days-of-rain-148-today-i.html)
30 October 2011, 5:18 pm
Dry days- 156
Days of rain- 148
Today I wandered to Wet Pooh with Doc Jnr 1. I wasn't great, started off okay by doing a V5/6 first try and loads of V5s. I didn't manage anything harder, and went downhill fairly quickly.
The evening was spent doing some Pumpkin etching. The Ghost Goat is here!! (bit of an in joke I'm afraid)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5384585881144655994?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Pissed Off (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/11/pissed-off.html)
5 November 2011, 1:31 pm
Dry days- 158
Days of rain- 152
Went to Earl. Failed on everything. Again.
When will I learn that Earl and I don't get on and stop going back? Fuck it.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7928735050734760355?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Crowds of Children (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/11/crowds-of-children.html)
8 November 2011, 5:42 pm
Dry days- 159
Days of rain- 154
Drizzle this afternoon so the going out plan was shelved. I had an afternoon at Wet Pooh which went reasonably well. I managed quite a lot up to the usual V5 level, fell off a couple of V6s that I should have done and got a fair bit of mileage in.
I'd been there an hour and a half when all the climbing lessons started and I found myself spending more time waiting than bouldering, so I did some easier problems and then left. The forecast for my day off tomorrow is poor, so I may continue the half arsed Wainwright ticking in between child herding. We shall see.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2735495289416483351?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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(http://userserve-ak.last.fm/serve/252/158148.jpg)
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"We wandered through Wilton Four, which was wet, then Two (which was wet) and then to Three, which was half wet. In the end we headed to W1, which was also pretty wet. " :lol:
Love it, best blog on the net this Gareth, pretty much the only one i read.
Like they say there's always someone worse off than you :thumbsup: ;)
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Venue Choice Incompetence (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/11/venue-choice-incompetence.html)
13 November 2011, 5:20 pm
Dry days- 163
Days of rain- 155
Today I intended to head out to Brimham, but being lazy I didn't get away as early as I had intended. I decided to go somewhere a little closer, and after Probes' recent comments about Charlotte Rampling Direct I decided to hit the Kebs. I sent the BeardyBeast a text to this effect.
The Sun over Chorley faded as I went along the M65, and by the time I was heading over from Burnley the mist was on the hills. Helpfully, BeardyBeast texted me at this point to tell me the Kebs were covered in mist. He did, however, have coffee and chocolate brownies so I carried on and went to chez Beardy. I sat in the car to hear the end of the Armistice Service, then headed in. D-unit was Ben 10ing, Mrs Beast had been sent out shopping (more halloumi). After a coffee and a bit of brownie, I opted to head back West to see how the weather was.
As I headed home it brightened up. I thought I'd have a look at Wilton one. A fair bit was wet, so I had a look at the Graveyard area, initially doing the traverse link. Then I did various eliminates. I ended up trying a new eliminate involving a pinch on the arete and a big move to get a foot on and slap for the high sloper. It felt pretty tricky and it's left for another day.
Need to get the 'bike MOTd and taxed, it's all due. Maybe this week. How come I now work part time but have even less free time than ever before?!?!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3353507071399453977?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Cos you spend half your life wandering around damp quarries?
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You may be right there :lol:
Bike MOT today though. Maybe........
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Wilton Mist (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/11/wilton-mist.html)
16 November 2011, 5:15 pm
Dry days- 166
Days of rain- 155
I took the bike in for its MOT this morning. This was 12 months overdue as it has been sat in the garage all that time. Therefore I wasn't surprised when it failed due to the brakes not running freely. I ended up leaving it at the garage so it was 11:30 before I got home.
This afternoon I went to Wilton, only to find it full of mist. I looked at R-Man's new problems (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10762.msg338796.html#msg338796) but they were damp. Sex in the Woods felt awkward, but having seen R-Man's vid I was doing it rather differently. I briefly tried Barbara's Man, via another daft sequence. After this I looked at Midgesquito Crimpelopes. I snapped the left hand sidepull that I had used for my sequence. I tried an alternative method, but it was also greasy.
I ended up back at the graveyard area, trying my pinch project. I was getting close using some completely different footwork. Another to go back to.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8794653009622478167?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Blackstone Edge Revisit (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/11/blackstone-edge-revisit.html)
22 November 2011, 10:49 am
Dry days- 169
Days of rain- 157
Bit of a delay in blogging, apologies!!
On Sunday a team of us went to Blackstone Edge. This was due to the re-write for the new Brick, as well as the topo I had done for the Edge 3 years ago. Gordon and Bruce (Goodwin) hda kindly agreed to join R-Man, myself and the Ginnster to look at what I had documented and what was done in the last 40 years.
It was foggy/ cloudy at the White House. We wandered into the small quarry, then on to the crag end. The cloud dropped into an inversion and left us basking in the sun. Unfortunately this didn't last, and we soon ended up back in the cloud. We looked at the Back Edge, I showed Bruce all the stuff we'd done before- much of which he said he'd never seen climbed.
After this we headed to teh Trig Area, much of what BeardyBeast and I had done before were old problems, as expected. Wandering along to the Hueco Block area we again found much of what was old and rediscovered matched up. Interestingly, Bruce knew that what we had referred to as Ape Hour and Nik's Traverse were done years ago by Nick Conway. Heading further right most stuff matched again.
R-Man and I had a look at Ape Hour. I was getting fingers on the top some goes, but getting nowhere on others. The drifting mist probably didn't help. R-Man used a typically R-Man technique and beasted it. A couple of his friends arrived from the Peak, whilst The Ginnster and myself wandered over to the right and did some of the good easier problems. There's a foul mantel that we tried as a dyno, big move and one to get back to.
After this I had one more go on Ape Hour but discovered my skin was ruined. We wandered past the Trig Point to the Crag Boulders. The Ginnster failed to cruch the Double Arete/ Blackstone Best. R-Man and Gareth.PB.info had a look at BeardyBeast's Fridge Hugger, but PastyKid and I had to head off. Later I found out they had done it, and the shamelessly stolen video is below. Seems to be a consensus of 7b+/7c.
Keen for a re-visit sometime, still lots of work to do.
R-Man and Gareth.PB.info on Fridge Hugger:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7899430873195200281?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Wilton Wet, Denham Trashed (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/11/wilton-wet-denham-trashed.html)
23 November 2011, 12:20 pm
I went to Wilton One this morning, but as I drove South past Abbey Village the cloud thickened up. I wandered around Wilton One but everything was wet due to condensate.
As I headed back home I thought about the recent reports of fire damage at Denham, so I thought I'd take a look.
Basically, some fools have set a fire under Crap Pot- this fire was obviously very hot as it has taken the surface layer off the crag. The damage is localised but still significant. The only surviving hold on Crap Pot is the right starting hand hold. The higher holds that are slapped to are gone- the flakey area they existed on has peeled off. This is unfortunate, as these are also the crux holds on The Denham Traverse.
So basically two of the best hard problems here are destroyed, and no longer possible. I would strongl suggest this section of the crag is left well alone until natural weathering over the next couple of years stabilises the surface.
Gutted.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7504501555835947924?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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I would strongl suggest this section of the crag is left well alone
No change there then.
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The Traverse rivals the best in the Peaks (sic). :-\
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At f**king last (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/11/at-fking-last.html)
23 November 2011, 6:01 pm
Forgot to say the bike's brakes are sorted and now has an up to date MOT and Tax. Wooooo!!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8953700824046045931?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Wet Day Wanderings (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/11/doc-and-i-went-for-walk-in-rain-this.html)
26 November 2011, 5:55 pm
The Doc and I went for a walk in the rain this afternoon. We had a wander past Cadshaw and around Entwistle Reservoir. I noticed that the Red Wall had loads of blocks at its base, obviously trundled from loose stuff at the top of the crag. More annoyingly, the nice tree in front of the Red Wall had been cut down. I hope whoever did this is coming back to tidy all the mess up.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4750787363253408489?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Blown Away (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/11/blown-away.html)
27 November 2011, 3:29 pm
Dry days- 171
Days of rain- 160
Doc jnr 1 and I weren't keen on going to a swim party today. It was clear and sunny, so we opted to head to the Kebs. When we arrived we discovered it was blowing a gale. We walked the length of the boulders, struggling to walk, before calling it a day and shifting to Widdop with soaking feet.
There's a lot of work going on at the Widdop dam, and the temporary path goes down then back up. At the boulders, the ground was waterlogged. I did Red Edge problems, the scoop and the other easier problems. After a while we called it a day as soggy feet meant I spent more time drying shoes than climbing.
We dropped in on BeardyBeast on the way home for a coffee and mince pies, along with Postman Pat. Lovely.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3639125520736660580?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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mince pies, eh? Homemade ones?
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But of course, I'll bring you some samples tomorrow evening if you want.
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howverykindofyoutosuggestthat. :thumbsup:
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Woah, woah, woah. If you're out tomorrow, I have some options for you.
1. Newly reset blocs at Shittycock. (level playing field etc)
2. Leeds Wall routes et blocage. (I am currently happy to showboat on either of these.)
3. you play the "I can only come out to play late" card and we go local.
I am off work this week so I'm free tomo lunchtime too. I'd only be flicking myself off to Trisha doing grown up stuff otherwise.
As usual, it's all bum gravy to me.
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Moss, Rain and Hiding (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/12/moss-rain-and-hiding.html)
3 December 2011, 6:02 pm
Dry days- 172
Days of rain- 165
The forecast was changeable for today, but when I woke up this morning it was shitting it down and was windy to boot. After a brief text exchange, R-Man and I opted for a wet day wandering around dank Lancashire venues looking for bouldering.
First up was Billinge Hill Quarry which was impressive in its verdant nature. We stomped about getting wet, then cleaned a few bits and bobs. There's some rock there that may be worthy of attention, but it will require some cleaning. After a while getting muddy and wet and smacked in the face by Rhodedendrons, we decided to move on.
Next up was Central Quarry. We parked up, and hopped over the fence and into the quarry. Generally the quarry was disappointing. There are some nice looking lines over on the left, which are unfortunately obscured by the piles of logs. On the right are a couple of potential boulder problems, usually requiring a patio to be built.
With wet feet and mud coated trousers, I met up with R-Man at Withnell Quarry. The quarry was working today, so we had to jump the barbed wire fence then sneak round to the left end and Brick Buttress. Nothing special here. We tried to look at the right end, but that meant we couldn't sneak past without being seen so we opted to leave it for the day.
Some things to look at. Let's hope that the rain stops at some point.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1883495575592618557?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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You'll definitely find the next Fontainebleau in one of those quarries one day.
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We already have.
We just haven't told anybody yet.
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You fucking deserve to..
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Weather Warnings (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/12/weather-warnings.html)
9 December 2011, 2:56 pm
Dry days- 171
Days of rain- 169
The recent weather has been pretty rubbish, to say the least. Yesterday I decided I would go out anyway. An interesting decision considering the gales hitting the UK, with various road closures and weather warnings.
I opted to walk up a Wainwright, in order to get some numbers up. As I was Blob herding after school, I opted for one of the smaller and closer hills- Loughrigg Fell fitted the bill. Getting there was fun due to high winds, and areas of flooding on the way there. I had t o drive through various bits of flooded road, with a few inches of standing water. Eventually I arrived and headed off in the rain.
It wasn't too bad going, although the path was a river. Evidently I was in the Lee of the hill as when I was 100 metres from the trig point I encountered the full force of the wind. I literally could not stand up, but being the stubborn person I am I crawled to the top, then back down again. The pain from the hailstones travelling at the motorway speed limit pursuaded me not to walk up Silver How on the same day. Winded and breathless due to the high wind, I headed back down.
Back at the car I found that my phone, which I had in the bottom of the rucksack in a poly bag, was more like a goldfish that you win at the fair- sloshing about in a poly bag of water. iPhones and water don't mix, so I think this is an insurance job. At least I got out for a bit. I wonder when the rain will cease. Off to do some Munros next weekend with MadMac, I hope the weather ain't as bad then!
The road past Windermere:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6073820980648353513?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Holy Crap!!!!! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/12/holy-crap.html)
10 December 2011, 6:39 pm
The water soaked iPhone is working! Zero battery life, but a sync means I haven't lost anything which is fab. And to boot, I was due an upgrade in February so I've now put in an order for a new phone.
All is well in the world. Except for the weather. The financial crisis. War. Taxes. Religious disputes. Disease.
Oh well.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5656317082577333513?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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More rain (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/12/more-rain.html)
11 December 2011, 6:16 pm
Dry days- 171
Days of rain- 171
More rain!!
I went for a run this morning, just the short course in the rain. I certainly didn't feel very fit. I'll need to get back into the running from January.
This afternoon the Doc was off shopping in Preston, so I popped to Wet Poo for an hour. When I got there I realised I'd forgotten to bring my shorts, so I ended up climbing in my jeans. The problems had been reset, so I had a go at flashing as much as possible. As usual I managed to flash a few V5s and most of the easier stuff, but then got shut down on anything harder. Consistent if rather unimpressive.
Im hoping the weather will be less crap this week, still need to get out on real rock!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8648588824232000114?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Brief Report (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/12/brief-report.html)
12 December 2011, 9:15 pm
Dry days- 171
Days of rain- 172
R-Man, the Ginnster and myself had a day looking at wet quarries today. We found a couple of possibilities, R-Man did a nice crimpy wall and I saw a fox.
Over and out.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6345964662400967185?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Winter Wonderland (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/12/winter-eonderland.html)
18 December 2011, 9:38 am
Dry days- 173
Days of rain- 176
I went to see the family Mac yesterday. MadMac and I had planned to walk up a couple of hills, the plan was Beinn Dorain and Beinn an Dothaidh. MiniMac 1 was up at 6:45 so we were ready at a reasonable time. We drove up easily, the roads being in good condition, and parked at Bridge of Orchy station and set off before ten.
Getting to the bealach was quite straightforward, apart from one steep section. We opted to wander up Beinn an Dothaidh first as navigation can be difficult in mist or cloud. The only downside to this plan was that no one had been up the hill recently so we had to blaze a trail through fairly deep snow. It took a lot longer than planned to get to the summit, although the weather was amazing. Clear skies, cloud free tops, crisp. A bit windy with spindrift but you couldn't really ask for better. Looking back down all we could see was fields of white snow with our tracks piercing through them.
I scattered a few of the Old Man's ashes at the summit cairn, then we stomped back down. By the time we were back at the bealach it was gone 13:00 so after a discussion we opted to leave Dorain for another day, as there was only another 150 minutes of light left. After something to eat, we headed back down and drove back to Glasgow whilst listening to Napalm Death's most recent album, very good actually.
Still full of the lurgy, been two weeks now and it's not going yet. Pain in the arse.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2081826553174051364?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Dank Days (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/12/dank-days.html)
22 December 2011, 4:39 pm
Dry days- 176
Days of rain- 180
I think the wet days are going to win this year.
After final Christmas shopping this morning, it was a sunny day so I headed over to the project R-Man and I cleaned recently. I found that the mud washes down the crag as the cracks were filled with it. It was wet, but due to the mud it wasn't even possible to towel it dry. I had a brief play on what will be the easiest line, but it wasn't the day to try it. So now I'm home and making icing for the cake.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2502201464355114387?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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The wind down to 2012 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/12/dry-days-178-days-of-rain-184-belated.html)
28 December 2011, 10:51 pm
Dry days- 178
Days of rain- 184
A belated Happy Christmas to everyone. I hope you all had a good one.
It's remained wet here, so I've not managed to get out. After a decent Christmas, today the Doc and I went out for a walk around Entwisle Reservoir to get some fresh air. It was pretty busy and lots of the trees had been decorated, plus cards dedicated to various late loved ones. It all created a bit of a Blair Witch atmosphere. Red Wall was soaking, so that's one for next year. Rivers Of Blood SDS was the only aim I achieved this year, so looking forwards I've come up with a fresh set of ten for 2012:
1. Finish my Red Wall Link Up Project
2. Boulder 7c. I think the Red Wall project will be this grade, so that is excluded. It'd be nice to do a 7C that doesn't instantly get downgraded too.
3. Get a house that I can build a woody in
4. Build a woody, and more crucially, use it
5. Tick two problems from the last few years Aims For lists
6. Run a marathon
7. Go to Font
8. Do at least ten Munros and ten Wainwrights
9. Stop drinking and get fit
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100
Number 9 comes from too much to drink at Christmas, although it's a theme I've needed to address for some time. The weight has been creeping inexorably upwards, the waist expanding. Thus I haven't drunk since Christmas Day and I'm planning not to for a while just to see if it makes much of a difference.
Number 10 is obviously off topic, but after War and Peace and Anna Kereninananina I have read Catch 22, and am keen to get more of these books read- just started Pride and Prejudice.
Obviously this year has been fairly wet, guaranteed more wet days than dry days now, and time has been an issue. Next year I am hoping to get out more if the weather allows. A house move and a board would help no end, but that's something to address in 2012.
As ever, too much to do but too little time. I may go for a walk tomorrow, as the forecast is wet.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7116875929857398455?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Horizontal Snails (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/12/horizontal-snails.html)
29 December 2011, 7:53 pm
Dry days- 178
Days of rain- 185
Annual leave today. And guess what? RAIN! No surprise there. After dragging my ass out of bed, I headed out for a walk. Due to the short days I decided to go somewhere close, so a Kentmere revisit was on the cards. There was no parking in the usual place by the church so I went to Weak Sam's spot, which was free. It was pissing down as got my stuff on, then stomped up the Garburn Pass track. There was a couple who set off as I was getting dressed, so I followed them up the track. At the summit I hung a right and headed towards Yoke. There was snow on the ground at the summits, but the ground was sodden. At one point avoiding a bog lake was impossible so I ended up with wet feet before the first Wainwright top. Great.
Between Yoke and Ill Bell the Westerlies blew with a vengeance. It was hard to walk, and the horizontal hail didn't help. I stayed behind the couple as I couldn't be bothered putting any effort in. Foswick was achieved easily enough in a clear spell with old views, but then the wind and hail came back with an extra spurt of enthusiasm. Heading to Thornthwaite Crag the woman in front kept getting blown over, as did I (albeit less so) then at one point she obviously took a glove off as it then sailed horizontally somewhere towards Harter Fell. I didn't bother going to the summit of Thornthwaite Crag as conditions were bloody awful, although I overtook the couple here. After this I stomped through snow and slush towards Mardale Ill Bell. This is when the hail softened to snow, then back to hail. The snow was ok but the hail hurt like hell. The snow hail combo (hence, snail) continued past the summit of Mardale Ill Bell, down to Nan Bield Pass, and all the way to Kentmere Reservoir. After this it seemed to settle, with occasional flurries.
I was back at the car by four, after five hours of snail blasting to the face. It was getting dark so after getting changed I headed home. I'm making a turkey biryani, which has taken two days effort but smells excellent in the oven. I hope it tastes as good as it smells, I'm hungry.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6385112595214617731?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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The end of a wet year (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2011/12/end-of-wet-year.html)
31 December 2011, 8:21 pm
Dry days- 178
Days of rain- 187
Well, that's the end of 2011! All of the Turkish Delight and walnuts are gone, there are still some mince pies and Brazil nuts left, and my as yet uncut cake As far as bouldering goes it's not been the best year, the weather has been against me from the start. Having said that, I've managed to put up a few new problems which I'm proud of which is always good. The new routing had taken the focus away from other projects such as the Keel and The Silverdale stuff, although its been a bit wet to do a lot of my Aims. Also this year I've managed my first half marathon in the Cross Bay Challenge which I thoroughly enjoyed. Losing the Old Man was a bit of a dip, but recently leaving his ashes on a Munro helped bring closure.
So life goes on, with all of its ups and downs. Despite all the ups and downs and lack of goals being achieved, I think 2011 has been pretty positive despite the roller coaster ride. I'm looking forward to a 2012 with fewer downs, more ups and more bouldering goals ticked. All in all things look pretty positive for the coming year.
Happy New Year to everybody!! I'm off to celebrate with my 6th alcohol free day. See you all next year.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7382334037948243290?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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2012- The Ideal Start (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/01/2012-ideal-start.html)
5 January 2012, 7:57 pm
Dry days- 0
Days of rain- 5
Alcohol free days- 12
What a start. Five consecutive days of shite weather. Yesterday I did the local short run in the freezing rain and wind, 27 minutes of misery despite the thermals.
I've been buying a few things from Amazon recently (other on line stores are available). Today I got Die Hard DVD and the Bible in the same package, ironic or what? I'm awaiting Kill List, a film that sounds interesting to say the least.
The forecast looks crap for a few more days, so little hope of any dry rock. Here's to 2012!!!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-693564113306605248?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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First wall visit of the year (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/01/first-wall-visit-of-year.html)
12 January 2012, 6:40 pm
Dry days- 3
Days of rain- 9
After work I decided to go to Wet Poo for an attempt at a session. I arrived just after four to find the Milky Bar Kid had reset everything today. There was no list of grades so I warmed up on the easiest looking problems. After a while I had a look at the steeper stuff on the left walls, but after a while some graded lists arrived. I found I'd flashed quite a few V4s which was nice.
I managed a few of the V5s and a V5/6, which was one of the weird Vickers problems with only five holds and lots of drop knees and bridging. After a couple of hours it was super busy and getting hot, so I opted to leave.
It's been a while of rubbish weather and a while since I've managed to get to any dry rock. I'm getting keen to get out and get doing stuff, and maybe get some aims ticked. Hopefully 2012 will be better weather.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5392471148098043760?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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I'm making a turkey biryani, which has taken two days effort but smells excellent in the oven. I hope it tastes as good as it smells, I'm hungry.
How was it then G?
You still off the pop?
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It was a LOT of effort, but really really good. Definitely one to do again.
Pop wise, no drink on school nights but allowing some at weekends. I'll be interested to see if it has any effect!
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Minty Weather (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/01/minty-weather.html)
15 January 2012, 4:26 pm
Dry days- 6
Days of rain- 9
The Doc and I went to chez Beast yesterday to drop presents off. It's been cold (frosty) and dry the last few days, grit season has finally arrived. Today dawned the same, cold and icy. I did the local run 2 minutes quicker than last time. Need to start upping the distance now.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4423998282414622726?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Less crap than last time (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/01/less-crap-than-last-time.html)
16 January 2012, 7:13 pm
Dry days- 6
Days of rain- 10
I finished work a little late today so didn't have time to make much of another cold and crisp day, so I went back for another Wet Poo session. I was only there an hour as my skin was sore and the place filled up with children and beginners back clipping their way up the lead walls. Today I manged to flash three of the V5s I hadn't tried last time, feeling a little better than last time. After the hour I was on my way out when I bumped into Weak Sam, so ended up chatting for half an hour. Interesting projects and links!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7706819818343195122?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Two Down (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/01/two-down.html)
18 January 2012, 9:50 am
Today is the one day off that I have this week, and it's pissing down again. Someone is having a laugh.
On the up side I managed to finish Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban in my quest to complete the BBC Big Read top 100. I'd already read a number of these, but a year ago I thought I'd try to expand my mind by reading them all. In that 12 months I've managed to get through War and Peace, Anna Karenina, Pride and Prejudice, Catch 22 and three Harry Potter books. Lots more to go at, and one of my aims this yea was to read ten of these. He's the current position books in bold are ones that I have read:
1. The Lord of the Rings, JRR Tolkien
2. Pride and Prejudice, Jane Austen
3. His Dark Materials, Philip Pullman
4. The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, Douglas Adams
5. Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, JK Rowling
6. To Kill a Mockingbird, Harper Lee
7. Winnie the Pooh, AA Milne
8. Nineteen Eighty-Four, George Orwell
9. The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, CS Lewis
10. Jane Eyre, Charlotte Brontë
11. Catch-22, Joseph Heller
12. Wuthering Heights, Emily Brontë
13. Birdsong, Sebastian Faulks
14. Rebecca, Daphne du Maurier
15. The Catcher in the Rye, JD Salinger
16. The Wind in the Willows, Kenneth Grahame
17. Great Expectations, Charles Dickens
18. Little Women, Louisa May Alcott
19. Captain Corelli's Mandolin, Louis de Bernieres
20. War and Peace, Leo Tolstoy
21. Gone with the Wind, Margaret Mitchell
22. Harry Potter And The Philosopher's Stone, JK Rowling
23. Harry Potter And The Chamber Of Secrets, JK Rowling
24. Harry Potter And The Prisoner Of Azkaban, JK Rowling
25. The Hobbit, JRR Tolkien
26. Tess Of The D'Urbervilles, Thomas Hardy
27. Middlemarch, George Eliot
28. A Prayer For Owen Meany, John Irving
29. The Grapes Of Wrath, John Steinbeck
30. Alice's Adventures In Wonderland, Lewis Carroll
31. The Story Of Tracy Beaker, Jacqueline Wilson
32. One Hundred Years Of Solitude, Gabriel García Márquez
33. The Pillars Of The Earth, Ken Follett
34. David Copperfield, Charles Dickens
35. Charlie And The Chocolate Factory, Roald Dahl
36. Treasure Island, Robert Louis Stevenson
37. A Town Like Alice, Nevil Shute
38. Persuasion, Jane Austen
39. Dune, Frank Herbert
40. Emma, Jane Austen
41. Anne Of Green Gables, LM Montgomery
42. Watership Down, Richard Adams
43. The Great Gatsby, F Scott Fitzgerald
44. The Count Of Monte Cristo, Alexandre Dumas
45. Brideshead Revisited, Evelyn Waugh
46. Animal Farm, George Orwell
47. A Christmas Carol, Charles Dickens
48. Far From The Madding Crowd, Thomas Hardy
49. Goodnight Mister Tom, Michelle Magorian
50. The Shell Seekers, Rosamunde Pilcher
51. The Secret Garden, Frances Hodgson Burnett
52. Of Mice And Men, John Steinbeck
53. The Stand, Stephen King
54. Anna Karenina, Leo Tolstoy
55. A Suitable Boy, Vikram Seth
56. The BFG, Roald Dahl
57. Swallows And Amazons, Arthur Ransome
58. Black Beauty, Anna Sewell
59. Artemis Fowl, Eoin Colfer
60. Crime And Punishment, Fyodor Dostoyevsky
61. Noughts And Crosses, Malorie Blackman
62. Memoirs Of A Geisha, Arthur Golden
63. A Tale Of Two Cities, Charles Dickens
64. The Thorn Birds, Colleen McCollough
65. Mort, Terry Pratchett
66. The Magic Faraway Tree, Enid Blyton
67. The Magus, John Fowles
68. Good Omens, Terry Pratchett and Neil Gaiman
69. Guards! Guards!, Terry Pratchett
70. Lord Of The Flies, William Golding
71. Perfume, Patrick Süskind
72. The Ragged Trousered Philanthropists, Robert Tressell
73. Night Watch, Terry Pratchett
74. Matilda, Roald Dahl
75. Bridget Jones's Diary, Helen Fielding
76. The Secret History, Donna Tartt
77. The Woman In White, Wilkie Collins
78. Ulysses, James Joyce
79. Bleak House, Charles Dickens
80. Double Act, Jacqueline Wilson
81. The Twits, Roald Dahl
82. I Capture The Castle, Dodie Smith
83. Holes, Louis Sachar
84. Gormenghast, Mervyn Peake
85. The God Of Small Things, Arundhati Roy
86. Vicky Angel, Jacqueline Wilson
87. Brave New World, Aldous Huxley
88. Cold Comfort Farm, Stella Gibbons
89. Magician, Raymond E Feist
90. On The Road, Jack Kerouac
91. The Godfather, Mario Puzo
92. The Clan Of The Cave Bear, Jean M Auel
93. The Colour Of Magic, Terry Pratchett
94. The Alchemist, Paulo Coelho
95. Katherine, Anya Seton
96. Kane And Abel, Jeffrey Archer
97. Love In The Time Of Cholera, Gabriel García Márquez
98. Girls In Love, Jacqueline Wilson
99. The Princess Diaries, Meg Cabot
100. Midnight's Children, Salman Rushdie
Right, back to Harry Potter and the Gobshite of Fire then off for a run.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6382684049209923809?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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I think the text formatting has failed somewhere along the line. But can click through easily enough.
Couple of thoughts:
1] This is an odd list, especially if the aim is to expand the mind. What's it supposed to be? Books to read before you die? best (fiction) books ever? I love Pratchett and have no time for Rowling, but niether deserve 5 entries in any list of 100 books.
2] Holes! I love this book, recommended.
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Right, looked it up and it's a list of peoples favourite novels, which makes a bit more sense.
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42
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Right, looked it up and it's a list of peoples favourite novels, which makes a bit more sense.
Yes, which means it's a mixed list, thus books I'd never have considered. Having managed to avoid the Potter franchise I was immediately four down!
This is actually a Top 200, although I've read more in the 101-200 section than in the first one hundred.
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I'm surprised there's no Hemmingway in there? Something like Old man of the sea... Proper Job.
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That's at Number 173 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/bigread/top200_2.shtml).
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Ah :whistle:
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Right, looked it up and it's a list of peoples favourite novels, which makes a bit more sense.
For me, the list lost all credibility when I reached number 31. Maybe it has hidden literary depths, but I'm guessing not.
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I fear there was no lower age limit on voting...
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But 199 is an absolute classic!!
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Brief Update (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/01/brief-update.html)
24 January 2012, 7:54 pm
Dry days- 8
Days of rain- 16
We seem to have shifted back to wet weather after a few lovely crisp days. I'm off tomorrow but the forecast is gash, so I think I'll start on my Aims for 2012 by walking in the Lakes.
I went to the wall tonight. My skin was very sore, even after five minutes. I did most of the things I've done before, but nothing any harder. I saw Serpico which is always nice. Maybe it's me but i think wet poo is getting busier in the evenings, which doesn't help.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6758773443530833890?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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PPPPPP (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/01/pppppp.html)
26 January 2012, 11:34 am
Dry days- 9
Days of rain- 17
Ah yes, Proper Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance. As ably demonsatrated yesterday, by the lack thereof.
The forecast wasn't great, so I had a look at MWIS which also said gales in the Lakes with wet weather and "significant" windchill. So obviously I opted to go there to walk up some hills. I settled on Kirkstone Pass, plotting to walk over Red Screes, Middle Dodd, Little Hart Crag and High Hartsopp Dodd- a good way forward to the 10 Wainwrights in 2012 aim.
Lovely day for it:
I arrived at Kirkstone Pass in the pissing rain. Cloud base was at around 500m (ie not much above the pass) and the cloud was whizzing by at a rate of knotts. Now, being Summer (?!) I had brought my light waterproofs and forgotten my gloves. Luckily I had some old motorbike gloves in the car boot. I stomped up Red Screes pretty quickly, although the path is nicely rocky and had water pouring down it. This made going interesting as the path was steep and slippery and the wind didn't help. You'd be unlucky to die from a slip, but you'd certainly be likely to injure yourself enough to be a bit Joe Simpsoned.
The summit of Red Screes appears out of nowhere, or at least it did yesterday since visibility was consistently below 10 metres. I then headed off towards Middle Dodd. After five minutes I absent mindedly added my location as a waypoint on the GPS- which later turned out to be fortuitous.
From Middle Dodd, I contoured around to try to get to Scandale Pass. This proved to be interesting as I couldn't see a thing. I finally arrived at a wall and a path which I presumed was the path down to the Pass. I headed down, scrubbing off height, for ten minutes. Before getting to the col I realised I was cold, and rather wet as the waterproofs and boots were leaking. I made the executive decision to turn for home, something unusual for a stubborn bugger like me. So, I turned around and headed up the hill towards red Screes, now needing to walk a kilometer and gain 300m of height.
Where the hill levelled off near the summit, one path went straight on, and another left. Not wanting to go back to Middle Dodd I went straight on. I didn't bother looking at the map as the wind and rain was so bad I couldn't be arsed stopping to get it out. After another 10 minutes of going downhill I realised the wind was in my face and I hadn't come to the craggy path yet. So I bit the bullet and checked my position. Needless to say I was half way down Snarker Pike on my way to Ambleside. Fuck it.
So another about turn and another kilometer and 300m ascent. I was annoyed now, which diffused the beginnings of a feeling that I couldn't be arsed walking. Heading towards my waypoint I kept passing small tarns, which all looked the same in a Scooby Doo running scene where the background keeps repeating. I think the cloud and mist banks were messing with my brain. I found the correct path and stumbled my way back to the car. 2:30 round trip in some pretty challenging conditions.
Last night we made a Jamie Oliver home made Haggis and drank a dram to Rabbie. I was so tired I could hardly wait for sleep!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3580602776564034477?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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You'd be unlucky to die from a slip, but you'd certainly be likely to injure yourself enough to be a bit Joe Simpsoned.
Never heard of an injury turning someone into a knob before.
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(http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lmdnjf3Ygc1qdnrvz.jpg)
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Amusingly, the Kirkstone Pass has subsequently been closed due to snow and ice.
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Parhelion (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/01/parhelion.html)
29 January 2012, 5:50 pm
Dry days- 11
Days of rain- 18
Yesterday I had a spare hour so went to Duxon Hill Quarry for a look at R-Man's new thing, Shed Seven. It was late on and the Sun was low and I was treated to a good clear Sun Dog, shimmering rainbow colours at the level of the Sun but no real ring. Stunning nonetheless. As I wandered to the rocks I managed to startle a deer, so a day of seeing things that should be appreciated.
I managed all the moves bar one on Shed Seven, despite it being quite wet. Damn, the holds are sharp and my skin was battered. I may head back when there's been a dry spell, good problem.
R-Man on the FA:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7978397287039628508?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Siberian Cold Snap (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/02/siberian-cold-snap.html)
3 February 2012, 10:03 am
Dry days- 16
Days of rain- 18
Apparently the cold air from Siberia is why it is so damned cold here this week. Cold, but dry. On Wednesday I had a couple of hours in Silverdale. I went to WoR initially, which was a mistake as most of it was seeping and it was in the shade. ie cold. I was desperately trying to get warmed up on Deal In Pain, when Weak Sam pottered along having seen my car parked up. We had a chat and I failed to do much more, then opted to move over to Trowbarrow.
The Shelterstone was in the sun but everything felt very hard in my current state of weakness. I had a look at Mojo, getting close but losing skin, then went to Red Wall. This was also in the shade and very cold. I did most of the easier stuff, then wandered home. R-man texted me asking if I was out in the quarries, sounds like he managed to tick a few more projects.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1972681689241182549?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Positivity (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/02/positivity.html)
6 February 2012, 8:29 pm
Dry days- 18
Days of rain- 19
Last night I went to Wet Pooh, and had quite a good session. I finally managed a V6, one I've not tried before. I did the moves quickly, then managed it first link, quite pleasing. I did a couple of hours getting sore skin, then headed home.
Tonight I went for a run. It's been a funny day of mist and fog, mixed in with glorious blue skies and sun. I went around the local 2 mile loop, going at rest pace. I held a steady ten minute mile pace, feeling good. I would have carried on but after 6 1/2 miles it was dark and foggy and I skept falling in potholes, so I came home. Reassuring though, since I've just realised its not long until the marathon.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-515136139615325408?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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BirthdayBeast (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/02/birthdaybeast.html)
8 February 2012, 9:43 pm
Dry days- 20
Days of rain- 19
This morning was cold. The Doc was out earlyish so I took the opportunity to head out too. It was minus two when I set off to Brimham for a look at the outlying areas. BeardyBirthdayBeast and I had previously looked for crimpy roof but failed to find it. Today I parked up in the layby along the road and had a wander. I managed to stumble across Harvey after wandering around in the snow. This gave me a bearing and I then manged to find crimpy roof. This looked neat but, erm, crimpy. After this was Dolphin Nose. This had a couple of easier things to do and was the obvious warm up spot.
After going back to the car to get the mats, I headed to Dolphin Nose. I did Dolphin Nose after a couple of goes, then did the low start fairly easily. This is labelled as the Big Green in the Total Climbing guide, and given 7a. It felt more like 6c today, and after looking at YG.com The Big Green seems to be a direct line right of Dolphin Nose. This involved one big move to the pocket which I found very hard to catch. I only held this twice. The first time was from a high start where I got three fingers in. The next time was for a low start (I am a little confused as to exactly what's in and out on this problem) I latched the pocket with two fingers to the first pad. Determined not to fuck up, I managed to "style" to victory.
After this I flashed the low traverse- I have to agree with Moose about ths being a Dwarf's revenge. Ouch.
Video to follow............
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6896439647932860941?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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The Power of Lanking.
Brimham Outlying (http://vimeo.com/36442337)
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Lazy Day (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/02/lazy-day.html)
11 February 2012, 9:24 pm
Dry days- 21
Days of rain- 21
The Doc and I went for a wander up Rivington Pike and Winter Hill today, followed by pub lunch. Lovely frozen conditions with exciting ice formations, frozen grass etc. Tonight we went to see The Woman In Black, which I enjoyed- suspenseful and well made.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-43068583326574316?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Running! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/02/running.html)
12 February 2012, 7:29 pm
Dry days- 21
Days of rain- 22
This morning we went to watch Doc Jnrs do the Crazy Pups one mile race at Southport. It was cold, but they performed admirably. Doc Jnr 1 managed a decent 9:30 whilst Doc Jnr 2 streaked away with an eight minute mile. Good effort to both.
This afternoon I felt guilty so went for a run. I managed 12.3 miles in 2 hours and 8 minutes, although some of the hills felt more tricky. Still, 9 weeks to go until the Manchester race. Fab.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3493341956273064881?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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More running (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/02/more-running.html)
14 February 2012, 6:45 pm
Dry days- 23
Days of rain- 22
This morning I went running again. 3x10 minutes of fast running, with 3 minutes of swift walking between. It felt hard, but I noticed my recovery time is getting better.
We cooked the Hairy Biker's gyoza tonight, fabulous! I think it's a Yarkshar day tomorrow. May get back on the Keel.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3955945639384478659?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Brimham Again (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/02/brimham-again.html)
15 February 2012, 8:39 pm
Dry days- 24
Days of rain- 22
The Doc, myself and the Junior Docs went to Brimham. We re-joined the National Trust since our membership had lapsed. First up I had a look at the 7a+ rock over problem at the Red Tape buttress, but was quickly reminded that it's nails. BeardyBeast and I tried it years back. Aft a warm up on the two easy problems here, I had a look at the Green Roof. I managed most of the moves on this, apart from the last couple, although the foot lock ate through my right shoe and then my foot. I opted to leave this for another time.
Next up was Black Chipper Arête. Rather annoyingly I did the first two moves that I couldn't do ever before, but then failed on the next two moves that I could always do. Weird.
After soup at the cafe I had a look at Pair In A Cubicle, which I really struggled with today despite being really close last visit. As a last ditch attempt I had a look at Murky Rib SDS, which I couldn't get off the ground on last time. After a while I managed all the moves, using a tenuous right heel on a pebble to slap through into the stand up. Second try I managed to link it. Then with sore skin and feeling rather weak, it was time for home.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-5521200081401981471?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Brownstones (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/02/brownstones.html)
19 February 2012, 7:10 pm
Dry days- 26
Days of rain- 24
On Thursday I did a 6.5 mile run again, 1 hour 8 minutes and fairly comfortable. I was supposed to do a brisk 3 miles yesterday but the Doc and I were at kids' parties so I ended up not doing it. I was chatting to a Dad at the party- he is doing various runs and cycles and he put me into the fact that being a Preston Guild year, there's a race series: a 5k, 10k, a 10 miler and a marathon/ half. If you do all four you get a t shirt and a medal! Tempted.
Today, I had an hour at Brownstones. I met Baz who was already there and had a chat. I did the usual easy circuit, managed Lancashire PotHot sans flake and did some traversing. I still feel unfit, but hopefully we'll have a new house soon and I can get a board built. We shall see.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6117596805643006513?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Man Flu (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/02/man-flu.html)
24 February 2012, 3:33 pm
Dry days- 28
Days of rain- 27
Rather a mixed week weather wise, it has tended to rain all morning and then brighten up in the afternoons- not the best combo for getting out, although this luckily coincided with a rather hectic week. It has also meant that there have been some really interesting cloud formations going on this week. Yesterday, Nemo texted me to say there were excellent iridescent (http://www.atoptics.co.uk/droplets/irid1.htm) formations where he was in Durham. Clouds and atmospheric optics still amaze me.
This week I have been mostly feeling a bit full of the Lurgy, generally grotty and knackered. This in combination with the rain made me sack off the marathon regime until I'm feeling better, I learned the hard way last time that pushing it can make you feel more shite.
Wednesday was my day off, and it was pissing down. I really couldn't face sitting around the house, so I went for a walk around Entwisle reservoir. it was pretty grotty weather but it was good to get some fresh air. The Red Wall at Cadshaw was piss wet, and now the trees have been trimmed the rain falls directly onto the face. What this will do to the fickle conditions here I have no idea. I'm keen to get back on my projects here once there's a decent dry spell.
I also had a wander further up the stream that runs back to the A666, and found an interesting culvert. i may upload some pics once I get around to it, I just realised I haven't even edited the Murky Rib SDS film! Getting slack.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3872141728763257491?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Recent pics (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/02/recent-pics.html)
25 February 2012, 8:02 am
Entwisle overflowing
Ginnster Culvert
Entwisle in the rain
Trowbarrow sign
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7721782477187007215?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Murky Rib SDS (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/02/murky-rib-sds.html)
25 February 2012, 8:34 pm
http://vimeo.com/37439709
Finally, the Brimham video!!!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2769514837832669970?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Still Man Flu (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/03/still-man-flu.html)
1 March 2012, 9:04 am
Dry days- 33
Days of rain- 28
Right, I'm thoroughly fed up of this now! Cough cough cough, and every time I bend over gunk pours out of my sinuses. And I feel rotten and very tired.
I also hate being couped up. The Doc and I went to see Doc Snr on Saturday, up Silverdale way. Not being up to bouldering I went along for a walk with them from Milnthorpe, around the coast and back through Dallam Park. We had a pub lunch at the Cross Keys which was decent pub grub.
Yesterday was another day off for me and another not wanting to be couped up. The Doc was off with vomiting, so she and I went for a walk round Anglezarke reservoir, which got me quite breathless at times. We has a small pub snack after this. The Doc went for a hot chilli with baked potato- kill or cure if there ever was one! Then last night I made some lovely French Onion soup. Lovely.
I hope this lurgy buggers off soon, there's bouldering and marathon training to be done. I'm trying to pursuade Ginnster that he want to do the Ribble Way Challenge in June, 100km in 30 hours......(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3019643046875371307?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bastards (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/03/bastards.html)
3 March 2012, 3:57 pm
Dry days- 34
Days of rain- 29
Yesterday, the Doc and I went to a school quiz night. Our team won, incredible as it may seem. There was then an impromptu rope climbing contest, which I was pleased to win too. And after not drinking!
Today it has alternated between sun and showers. I was still feeIng a bit viral, so I didn't bother with running. I decided on a Wet Poo visit. "bouldering please". "six pounds love". In I went to find the bouldering walls closed off for a comp. Brilliant. Oh well, caveat emptor. There is argument that I should have looked online etc before going, so it's my own fault. No refunds, fair enough but it may have been polite to let me know before taking my money. Well, Wet Poo you can keep my six pounds and shove it up your arse. The sooner I build my own board the better.
I went to Longridge after this, which was mostly wet. I had half an hour doing circuits aroun the Bomb Squad area, then went home. Grumpy.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1006051635055582320?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Back to the roads (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/03/back-to-roads.html)
7 March 2012, 11:18 am
Dry days- 34
Days of rain- 33
I still feel pretty rubbish, sore throat and generally washed out. I was keen to get to Almscliff today, but it was pissing down here and a BeardyBeast report from further East was the same. Both MWIS and the MetOffice said similar, so I had no option but to try to get back into the running program, since I've missed two weeks.
Tomorrow was supposed to be an easy eight mile run, but since I'm working all tomorrow I decided to do it today. two mistakes- not eating this morning before going out, and then picking a hilly nine mile route. Oops. The head winds didn't help much either.
By seven miles I was getting my usual popliteal discomfort in the left leg, this only ever happens when I try to push faster and I suspect is due to my crap running style. Despite this I made the eight miles in one hour twenty minutes and the 8.8 miles in just under an hour and a half. Tired now though, I still don't think I'm 100% over the lurgy.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-1991131406272632034?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Shit skin for grit (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/03/dry-days-40-days-of-rain-35-yesterday-i.html)
15 March 2012, 11:03 pm
Dry days- 40
Days of rain- 35
Yesterday I was taking the Doc's Big Car for its service. This meantime had a few hours, and a courtesy Volvo C30 diesel, to play with. After a check on UKB I was put off Yorkshire, so I opted for a Peak raid.
The sun was out as I left Lancashire, but the cloud set in over the Snake and passing Stanage I couldn't even see the chalk on Hamper's Hang! Burbage was cold and in cloud, but I headed to the Famous Grouse area to warm up on Breakfast. This puzzled me. I tried various things including an illegal lank to that high right hand crimp with the foot lock still in place. After an aeon on failing, three guys appeared and joined me in the quest. James, Ryan and another dude whose name I didn't catch had a go. They suggested better beta, a clamping foot thingy, and I should have done it except for being tired. After a while I admitted defeat and moved rightwards.
I was so close to Jason's Mono it sent me mental. What a frustrating little shit! I then wandered along Burbage and need up at The Terrace. I had a brief go, he starting few moves feeling ok apart from the incredible skin pain. one to look at again once I'm stronger.
Just made the mistake of googling masterchef to watch the final Oh, well. At least I know who wins.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2251587181634991259?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Mothering Sunday (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/03/mothering-sunday.html)
18 March 2012, 5:31 pm
Dry days- 42
Days of rain- 36
It has been a beautiful day today, clear skies. It had been wet overnight but the ground dried up nicely early doors. Knowing I need to get back on the running program, I managed to drag my lazy ass out this morning. We were going round to the Doc's brother's for Sunday roast, so I headed out at a decent time for a run. It felt quite tough as I haven't been for some time, but I managed 13.5 miles before having to head back to get ready to go out. It took me a disappointing 2:25 for what is effectively a half marathon.
If this weather stays settled I may try to head out on Wednesday for a bit. No idea where as yet, we shall see.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4641075858631038158?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rubbish (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/03/rubbish.html)
21 March 2012, 7:46 pm
Dry days- 44
Days of rain- 37
Yesterday I continued the Marathon training with a sprint/ jog session: 45 seconds fast run, the three minutes jogging. I was supposed to do six cycles of this, but I lost count and ended up doing seven. I felt rough during the sprints but managed to recover fully during the jogging sections. I thought I'd done ok until I stomped around the hillside today.
I'd arranged to meet the BeardyBeast at Caley at 10:00. I was a quarter of an hour late, but luckily so was BB. We wandered up to the crag, BB wanting to look at Strangeness. It looked in need of a clean and brush. We tried the two problems on the small wall opposite Rick's Rock, on the Pinch boulder. These were greasy and we hated them. BeardyBeast fell from the last move of Rick's Rock a few times due to the greasiness. Then we moved on to the boulders. I have to say, we weren't psyched. BeardyBeast had a look at Scary Canary, which looks nasty We did a couple of the easiest things, BB did the Flapjack traverse despite it being a bit wet. I struggled on the first move, which was was a little irksome. BB did Mr Smooth fifty times just to annoy me, then I failed on it. Again. I hate that problem. By now it was nearly home time, but I had a brief play on the Horn left hand which was super greasy. And after that we headed home.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7559890804289479208?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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(http://wiki.eth-0.nl/images/9/9e/Great_success.jpg)
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Warm (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/03/warm.html)
24 March 2012, 9:39 pm
Dry days- 47
Days of rain- 37
On Thursday I did my training run- six miles run, with the last mile a sprint. Other than being harassed by teenagers this went ok and I felt ok.
Today I nipped back to Duxon Hill Quarry. I did the Groove and the crack, as well as a left hand finish to the Groove. Shed Seven still has one move I cannot do, and I don't get many tries as the holds shred you skin. I added a new (eliminate) problem on lovely slopes. Worthwhile at 6a ish.
Tomorrow I'm supposed to do 18 miles. The clocks go back tonight so hopefully the longer evenings will afford some climbing pleasure.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3888932653988747245?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Too hot to run, but run I did (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/03/too-hot-to-run-but-run-i-did.html)
25 March 2012, 2:21 pm
Dry days- 48
Days of rain- 37
I'm sitting in the garden, in the sun, and typing this. It has been a beautiful day, but very warm. Today was my 18 mile training run, and since I've been a bit lackadaisical recently I HAD to do it. It was pretty hot, and the route was pretty hilly. I managed to run all of it except for three points where I walked in order to have a snack and drink. I drank two litres of fluid on these stops.
The whole thing felt very hard work due to the heat, so the time of 3:21 wasn't great. Although, if I maintain that speed that would be under the five hour target for the marathon. We shall see.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8032265572618676966?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Parbold (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/04/parbold.html)
1 April 2012, 5:14 pm
Dry days- 55
Days of rain- 37
It's been too hot for me recently. This morning was another sunny day with clear skies, and hot. It's only four weeks to the Manchester Marathon, so I continued my training by doing 12.5 miles this morning. I thought I'd try to push it a little, and managed the first five miles in 52 minutes, ten quicker than usual. I felt the last 3 miles, but managed to keep pace and got back in 2:01:46 which I was fairly pleased with. The Doc did her usual 5k run. The Preston Guild 5k is close on the tail of the marathon.
This afternoon the Doc dropped me off at Parbold Hill then went onwards to look at furniture shops. I had a look at Parbold Hill Quarry, which isn't in the Brick that I've found and the only reason I knew of it was seeing James Jennings' photo topo over on UKC. The main Mentalist wall was nice and clean, although slightly seeping/ muddy in some of the slots. I jumped on Fundamentalist which felt hard until I managed to get the hang of the pop to an edge, then I managed it first link. Mentalist is a fun problem too. I had a look at Mentalist Direct, getting close to latching the high left sidepull by the power of lank. I was thwarted by mud in the right hand starting sidepull.
I did Vesuvius/ Vesuvius Base Camp, which both felt miles easier than the V6 they are given. I eliminated the back wall too, but they still felt around 6b+. I did Etna after this, which I found hard. It was only when I got home that I realised this uses the arete, so I had added my own eliminate up the face.
Walking back up the hill to the road was hard work in the heat with a heavy bag and pad. Feeling OK now though.
Here's some footage from today, as well as last Sunday at Duxon Hill:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8055306565787536844?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Parbold is in the previous Merseyside sandstone guide...
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Thanks Fiendy- any idea why? It's in Lancashire and is a Lancashire crag in appearance!
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Sorry not sure. And my copy has randomly disappeared :doubt:
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Coincidence? I think not!! :o
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15 days to go (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/04/15-days-to-go.html)
14 April 2012, 4:34 pm
Dry days- 60
Days of rain- 45
I've had a hell of a week at work, so that's all I've done this week. This morning I headed out for the easy 10 mile run. The first 5 miles took me 52 minutes but I was feeling good. I decided to stretch out a bit and see how could get on. I managed the last 5 miles in 46 minutes, at around 9 minute miles. This felt pretty easy, and I managed the ten miles in 1:38 which beat my aim of doing the Preston Guild ten miler in under 1:40. I may have to look at a quicker time to aim for.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3124700452572664715?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Pleased for once (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/04/pleased-for-once.html)
17 April 2012, 10:34 am
Dry days- 61
Days of rain- 47
My running training has been moved forward one day out of sync due to other commitments. It was a lovely day yesterday, I could have had a couple of hours out on the rock but motivation was lacking and it's so close to the Marathon that I had to force myself to get out running.
I was supposed to be doing a 6 mile gentle run but I set off to see how fast I could do a 10k, since I felt quite good the last time I went out. I set off pretty fast, which winded me a bit as the first 3 miles was pretty hilly and I thought I'd have to stop and have a lie down. I managed to keep going, and after a while I settled into a reasonable rhythm. I was pleasantly surprised that I could pick up the pace over the last mile and made the 10k in under 48 minutes. Now I know in real terms that is pretty slow, but my previous best 10k was 56 minutes so being 8 minutes quicker is quite good for me. I feel quite fit at present, which is a nice change, and I'm almost (but not quite) looking forward to the 29th when I will either die or cross the line in a blaze of glory*.
Thursday I am supposed to be doing an 8 mile gentle run, but I may go to the Lakes on Wednesday and stomp up a few hills. Hopefully that will get me nearer to my Aims for 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19228.msg343932.html#msg343932).
*Well, not so much a blaze of glory as I'm not aiming for a good time- I just want the self satisfacion of having managed to complete a Marathon.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-480313736416024170?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Wainwrighting (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/04/wainwrighting.html)
19 April 2012, 10:40 am
Dry days- 62
Days of rain- 48
Today was supposed to be my 5 miles easy jog/walk, but as I was off yesterday I decided I would try to tick a few Wainwrights. The weather was so-so on the way up and I was parked up at Hartsop by 11:30. I had decided to use this as a bit of a trining session so I pushed myself a bit to see how fitness was. I followed the track up to Hayeswater, then left up the fell and on to The Knott. I was pleased to stomp up to here fairly quickly and managed to overtake quite a few people. At the summit it was trying to snow, so I stopped and put my waterproof trousers on.
I dropped down from the Knott and then headed left to Rampsgill Head and on to High Rise. It cleared for a while so I had some good views over to the North. Back to Kidstye Pike, then to the Straights of Riggindale in order to head up to High Street. On the way a Coast to Coast walker asked me where they were going as they were lost. i would have thought it prudent to be able to navigate effectively before doing such a walk, or am I being elitist?
High Street's wall reminded me that I had been up here years and years ago with my father. I remember huddling behind that same wall 25 years ago, hiding from the wind. I remember my Dad finding half a maggot in his apple- it took me years before I'd eat apples again!
From High Street over to Thronthwaite Crag, then back down over Gray Crag- the descent from here was rather slippery and tedious- and back to the car in under 3 1/2 hours. I'm feeling the fittest I have in years. Doing 7 Wainwrights in a day has brought the total for 2012 to 9, one more and 10 Munros and that's one of my aims ticked.
I've just found this article (http://www.lakedistrict-walks.co.uk/2012/January/10.1.2012_High_Street.html) which is basically what I did. I think their distance is 2 miles too high though.
After a blast back home I went to see The Hunger Games with Doc Jnr 1, which was pretty good.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8555545145886351713?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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New House (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/04/new-house.html)
26 April 2012, 8:25 am
Dry days- 64
Days of rain- 53
We got the keys for the new house yesterday. When we got into the place we found it was a bit of a tip- half the cupboards had cornflakes/ flour/ etc scattered through them. now it's emtpy you can see how battered the carpets are and how much decorating needs doing- basically everything.
The Doc spent a few hours cleaning last night, I pulled rawl plugs out of the wall and filled holes, then started on painting the kitched. The Doc seemed a it taken aback by how much needs doing, but it's all superficial stuff so it'll be great at the end of the day. Having said that, a board is a little down the list at present.
Marathon this Sunday, then we have a week off so if I'm in any fit state I'll get more work done on the house.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-2266666769083756371?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Just bring the doc round to ours again, then she'll realise how lucky she is...
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Funnily enough, she said the same thing last night :lol:
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Not enough gloom and wandering around soaking quarries recently on this blog. It's all I read it for.
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Once the marathon is out of the way, I won't be running as much so normal service will resume.
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Good luck with the running.
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You've definitely taken your eye off the ball. This week has been the first prime miserably cold and disgustingly wet week for ages. You're missing it!
Summer will be here soon. Midges instead of rain...
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Good luck with the running.
Going to need it!!
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YYFY! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/04/yyfy.html)
29 April 2012, 4:52 pm
Dry days- 67 Days of rain- 53 Marathon Day! Due to the new house I haven't been running this week. However, despite this I was going to take today seriously and approach it properly- I only had a couple of beers last night. I had bought a shower-proof jacket yesterday in Preston after looking at MetCheck. The weather has been terrible this week, and today was no exception. The Doc and I were out of the house just after seven, after I'd eaten mini Shredded Wheat at six and a banana smoothie just before we left. There were no signposts for the Marathon or its parking, plus there were road closures, so it took a bit to find where we were going. The parking mentioned in the booklet for the race wasn't great. One was full, the other had decided it wasn't accepting event parking. We ended up in some backstreet and then walked in the pissing rain to the start. It was cold, windy and very wet standing around waiting for the gun. After saying farewell (possibly literally) to The Doc I jogged up and down a bit to try to get warm. I had my Helly Hansen long sleeve thermal on, then my Satch T shirt and the shower-proof on top. I wasn't exactly warm like this, so I didn't envy the people huddling under trees in T shirts and shorts. I had said I'd do the run in five hours, so I was in the penultimate wave which took 6:24 to cross the line after the gun. The first five or so miles were past the fire station and Kellogg's and was quite built up. This meant that whilst everyone goes soaked in the continuous rain, the wind wasn't a factor. Once outside the M60 this came into play and the rain became horizontal. I was utterly soaked by this stage, and cold. Between twelve and sixteen miles we zig zagged around Dunham Massey, through country roads with three inches of standing water and then through a park with two inches of standing liquid mud. My feet had been wet before, but by now they were waterlogged and covered in mud. At this point a stop in at the Rope and Anchor was tempting, but I pushed on. At various Marshall tents there were lots of runners in foil huddling for shelter. A lot of people on the route looked very very cold, and many were walking. To be honest, conditions were awful and about as bad as you'd ever want for a long distance run. 24 miles saw me back inside the M60 and a little more shelter, thankfully. At least I wasn't going to get any colder than I already was. After the 20 mile point I felt more upbeat, and managed to up the pace a little. I seemed to be overtaking quite a few flaggers now, including most of the 4:30 and 4:15 pacemakers. My habit of stomping up hills in shite weather was holding me in good stead. I managed to run all the way, and finished in 4:39:58 which was nicely under my 5:00 target and considering the conditions I was quite pleased. The Doc was relieved to see me at the finishing mud bath. She was pretty cold just from standing in the rain. After that we came home to warm up in the bath. So, unending rain and wind. Lovely, I think I'll leave Manchester next time! Although I think I'll enter the London Marathon ballot tomorrow when it opens. And I need to decide on the Preston Guild half vs marathon. Split times: 10 miles- 1:44:31 Half- 2:16:36 (Second half- 2:23:22) 20 miles- 3:30:29 Finish- 4:39:58(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-243138734369833211?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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I hate this new design of Blogger (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/04/i-hate-this-new-design-of-blogger.html)
29 April 2012, 5:01 pm
Is it only me that can no longer format paragraphs and get pictures to embed correctly?!?!? (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/f23d98cb.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/f23d98cb.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4928767317544015042?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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top effort GCW!
:clap2:
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I think I will sleep The Sleep Of The Just tonight!!!!
:alky:
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Good effort GC. I walked for 5 minutes through this rain and thought it was too much.
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I thought the same, but then I had to carry on for another 4 hours and 35 minutes. :icon_321:
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Nice one hero.
You going to start climbing again now?
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Bouldering. Soon, I hope. No ropes. :jab:
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I hate this new design of Blogger (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/04/i-hate-this-new-design-of-blogger.html)
29 April 2012, 5:01 pm
Is it only me that can no longer format paragraphs and get pictures to embed correctly?!?!? (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/f23d98cb.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/f23d98cb.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4928767317544015042?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
Nope.
And I hate the way it looks fine on preview and is then crap when posted.
Well done.
I'd be lucky if I could get my nose to run these days...
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Great effort, well done it really was awful weather today
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Nice one.
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Boss effort Gareth. It was like the Perfect Storm out there!
Agreed on the new blogger being wank for picture placement.
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Got the official time. 4:38:59. Woo hoo!
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Well done Gareth good effort :strongbench:
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I hate this new design of Blogger (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/04/i-hate-this-new-design-of-blogger.html)
29 April 2012, 5:01 pm
Is it only me that can no longer format paragraphs and get pictures to embed correctly?!?!? (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/f23d98cb.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/f23d98cb.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4928767317544015042?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
It is utterly fucking terrible. You can get things to work as normal but it requires a lot of pissing around and trial and error with the HTML version, which is full of utterly bloated code by default.
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Running from the house to the car was bad enough in that shit. A truly heroic effort.
Now get back to wandering around green quarries and falling off.
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I may be doing one or two more first......
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Busy busy busy (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/05/busy-busy-busy.html)
8 May 2012, 10:54 am
Dry days- 71
Days of rain- 58
What a week! The Doc and I have spent most of our time trying to get the new house sorted after the dirty buggers vacated it in a right state, including piles of flour in the cupboards and live wires left around. Cleaning is almost complete, but every room needed decorating. This was too big a task for me so we have had to get someone in. I've been fixing stuff, changing lights, clearing the garden, getting 240V shocks etc etc. The kitchen is almost done now, and the bedrooms shouold be painted this week so we are hoping to be in in a fortnight or so. Understandably, the board has taken a back burner.
Yesterday was the first of the Preston Guild races. The Doc and I got to Preston for 10, parked in a back street and wandered to the Race HQ. This event was very well organised, all credit to the Red Rose Runners. I was aiming for under 25 minutes, but wasn't too hopeful due to a heavy cold. I got totally stuck in the pack initially so my first 1km took over 6 minutes. I managed to get going after this, but the final time was 25:47. Both the Doc and I really enjoyed the run actually, great fun. The next up is the Manchester 10k, which I hope I feel better for. Other than that it's just lots of work on the new house.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7840280801963314033?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Long time no blog! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/05/long-time-no-blog.html)
25 May 2012, 11:54 am
Dry days- 84
Days of rain- 62
We seem to be in the middle of a heatwave at the moment, yesterday the car suggested 28 degrees. Too hot for me.
I have realised it's been a while since the last blog post- this is because we have been beavering away to get the house in a decent condition. As with most old houses, little jobs are never little and have often generated a much bigger job. Lighting has been a major pain in the ass, the wiring has been botched together in the fittings so I've had to modify most of it as I change light fittings. This in addition to the Doc's preference for fittings with no space for wiring have made for some colourful language. All done now though.
We discovered that the oven on the range was buggered, as was the extractor hood. I know about caveat emptor, but the vendors refused us access to look around again and check stuff. I suppose that should have rung bells in itself. Anyway, on Wednesday I managed to strip the extractor and range out and put them outside for removal when the new one came. When I went out five minutes later it had all gone, I can only guess some scrap merchant pinched it. Now we have a fully functional cooker, although no hood yet as the back plate isn't in stock at present.
I have my pride and joy hi-fi in the house now. The Doc has decided where it needs to go and wants the cabling run under the carpet. I made a booboo and bought new cabling that was too thick, so I went back yesterday to swap it. The new one is three times the cost per metre. I'm also getting a new stand, the Atacama Equinox (http://www.whathifi.com/review/atacama-equinox-hi-fi-celebration-le) being current favourite. I'm picking the cabling up on Saturday so I'll order something then. I have also lost my spikes on the old Target speaker stands.
Other than dressings with pictures and mirrors, the interior of the house is nearly there. It's been fairly stressful though, but at least it's habitable now. The garden and exteriors need blitzing, but that's not something I'm any good at so it's a case of getting people in. But we are approaching the time when I can turn my attention to Board work..........(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-3990145714421070039?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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A reminder of France!! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/06/reminder-of-france.html)
3 June 2012, 8:26 pm
Dry days- 90 Days of rain- 65 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dlcGUgt_po&feature=youtube_gdata_player(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-6935705875046628216?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Videos (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/08/videos.html)
28 August 2012, 7:50 am
After the Vimeo disaster, I've had quite a few people asking after the videos. I will try to gradually re-edit and re-post. I hadn't realised how many videos I had!!
Bouldering In Silverdale Part 1 (http://vimeo.com/48288803) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
https://vimeo.com/48288803(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-7203273592702200211?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Just realised the second installment hasn't sucked into the Blog Pile. Part 3 is currently uploading.
Bouldering In Silverdale Part 2 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/50644007)
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Bouldering In Silverdale Part 2 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/10/bouldering-in-silverdale-part-2.html)
3 October 2012, 5:07 pm
Bouldering In Silverdale Part 2 (http://vimeo.com/50644007) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
http://vimeo.com/50644007
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-9101497403442393634?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldering in Silverdale Part 3 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/10/bouldering-in-silverdale-part-3.html)
12 October 2012, 7:38 am
Bouldering in Silverdale Part 3 (http://vimeo.com/51206257) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8384083482267699441?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldering in Silverdale Part 4 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/10/bouldering-in-silverdale-part-4.html)
22 October 2012, 2:42 pm
Bouldering In Silverdale Part 4 (http://vimeo.com/51816756) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-4548101219491032686?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldering in Silverdale Part 5 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/10/bouldering-in-silverdale-part-5.html)
22 October 2012, 2:43 pm
Bouldering In Silverdale Part 5 (http://vimeo.com/51898986) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-833836281291214940?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Preston Guild Series Ticked! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/11/preston-guild-series-ticked.html)
26 November 2012, 5:19 pm
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/C0776657-F182-4B05-91FB-AAB08E6DA1D8-982-00000148560D3AC8.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/C0776657-F182-4B05-91FB-AAB08E6DA1D8-982-00000148560D3AC8.jpg)
7/5/12 5k 25:47
30/9/12 10k 56:50
28/10/12 Half Marathon 1:52:33
(4/11/12 Tatton Park Half Marathon 1:48:41)
18/11/12 10 miler 1:25:06
You can tell I am not a runner.
And from this video of old stuff, you can tell I'm no boulderer either. Some problems from Lancashire Grit/ Sand stone.
Windy Clough- Bodacious 7a. Bully for Bugs 6c, Wall 6b+, Country for Old Men Variant 6c+, Mr. Owl ate my Metal Worm 7a, Welcome to the Palindrome 6c, Live Evil 6c+, No Country for Old Men 7a+
Heysham Head- Spiderman's Toxic Sunday 6b+
Windy Clough and Heysham Head (http://vimeo.com/54280410) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-9057984828818385672?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Thorn Bouldering Video re-Edit (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2012/12/thorn-bouldering-video-re-edit.html)
4 December 2012, 2:57 pm
Bouldering at the excellent Thorn Crag with Andi Emery and GCW.
One Eyed Willie 6a
Red Rose Addict 6c+
Fresno 6a+
Score 5
Grit Nose 6a+
Burnt Heather 6b
Neil's Thorny Arete SDS 6a
Budmunk 7a+
Elemental 6c
Neil's Slab 4
Easy Karma 5+
Mothership Reconnection 7a+
2001: A Grit Odyssey 6c+
And For My Next Trick 7a
Music by Primus and Ministry
Thorn Crag Bouldering (http://vimeo.com/54845754) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/264463035284551872-8352389979279125670?l=lankytwat.blogspot.com)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Fontainebleau Video Re-Edit (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/01/fontainebleau-video-re-edit.html)
16 January 2013, 8:25 am
Bouldering in Fontainebleau with Nik at work, GCW, Rick, Mike and Baz with a cameo from Andi "funky beanie" E.
La Roche aux Sabots- Zen 7a, Jet Set 7a
Apremont Bizons- 7a Wall fail
Bas Cuvier- Le Super Prestat 7b+ fail
Bois Rond- Toubib or not Toubib 7a
Buthiers- Attention Chef d'Oeuvres fail 7a
Canche aux Merciers- Blue 15, Keo 7a?, Mardis Gras 7a
Franchard Cuisiniere- Le Mouton a 5 pattes 7a, le Mouton a 6 Pattes 7a
Franchard Isatis- The Real Thing "7a Double Dyno", Abdolobotomy 7a
l'Elephant- Le Lepreux Direct 7a
Maunoury- l'Oeil de Boite dans l'Epaule 7a
Potala- le Petit Toit Ocre Direct 6c+
Rocher Canon- leve la Patte 7a?
Fontainebleau 2010/2011 (http://vimeo.com/57491984) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Night Series Done (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/02/night-series-done.html)
27 February 2013, 12:24 pm
http://www.thenightrunner.co.uk/
Really good fun!
15/12/2012 Delamere Forest Festive Fun 48:56
12/1/2013 Rivington Close Encounters 54:27
16/2/2013 Formby Valentines Massacre 47:42
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rivington Ultra Trail Marathon (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/04/rivington-ultra-trail-marathon.html)
13 April 2013, 4:17 pm
The official Rivington Ultra Trail 26 was postponed due to deep snow. We decided to run it unofficially today. 43km, over 1000m ascent. I struggled with the heat in the middle section which wiped me out. We did it in 5:50:02, which is below our 6 hour aim. Still a little disappointing that I was shit.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Lake District Video Re-Edit (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/04/lake-district-video-re-edit.html)
22 April 2013, 4:13 pm
This is the re-edit of various bits of Lake District footage. Parts of it were filmed just after I snapped my A2, so the easier stuff was part of my rehab.
Chapel Stile - H&M Smith Traverse 6a+, Ly'al Fella's Wall 7a??, Pocket Slab Centre 5, Pocket Slab Far Right 6a, Wall 1 5+, Wall 2 5
Gouther - Four Winds Wall 7a+ (fail), Renegade NED 7a, Trev's Traverse 7a (fail)
Kentmere - Badger Arete SDS 6c+, Blow Yer Ballast 6b, Middle Earth 7a+/b, Negative Reality Inversion 7a+
Langdale Boulders - Problem 13 6c+, problem 18 7a, The Mantel 6b
Climbers - GCW and Rick Ginns, with a cameo from Sam Davenhall.
Music by Gordon Lightfoot.
http://vimeo.com/64553155
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Manchester Marathon 2013 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/04/manchester-marathon-2013.html)
28 April 2013, 10:15 pm
Bizarrely, I started and finished at the same time as a friend. My chip time gives a two minute difference?!?
Our chip time was 4:23:47 which correlates with watch time.
Much less set , cold and muddy this year hence the 15 minutes less on the time.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Good work on the marathon Gareth...
Any chance you could re-upload the Parbold vid as it seems to have disappeared from Vimeo?
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I'm in the process of re-editing the videos. Bear with me.
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Just had a look above and seen you'd had some Vimeo disaster! No worries...
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Yes, so I'm re-editing into 10 minute films (ish) so there aren't loads of single problem shorts now. It's taking a while!
Marathon wise, the splits etc have changed a few times (weird!) but these are about right. I was actually more than 15 minutes quicker this year, which reflects the weather more than my fitness I suspect!!
10km 00:56:23
10 Mile 1:32:03
Half Marathon 2:01:25
20 Mile 03:14:47
Finish 4:23:45
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Lancashire Lanks Video Series Part 1 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/06/lancashire-lanks-video-series-part-1.html)
4 June 2013, 3:10 pm
Esoterica at its best!
An oddball collection of videos (and climbers) from various Lancashire venues.
Blackstone Edge - Arete 5+, Ape Hour 7a+, Nose 6a+, Slap 6b, Whale 6a+
Cadshaw - Brian Jacques 7a (2nd ascent), Jump Arete SDS 7a+ (FA), Rivers of Blood SDS 7b+ (FA), Twist 6a, Cadger 6b, Cadswallop 6a+ (FA)
Craig Y Longridge - Seven A 6a+
Healey Nab - Barmfingers 6b (2nd ascent), Heely Grab 6a+ (FA), Pop 5+, Slaptasm 6a, Slime Pillar 6a+ (FA), The Coolboy Slap 6a (FA), The Stretch 7a+ (FA), Titanium Traverse 7a (FA)
Climbers: GCW, Rick Ginns, Robin Mueller, Bruce Goodwin, Andrew Emery, Sam Dewhurst
Music by Faith No More - The Real Thing, From Out Of Nowhere
Lancashire Lanks Series - Part 01 (http://vimeo.com/67633538) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Lancashire Lanks Video Series Part 1 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/06/lancashire-lanks-video-series-part-1.html)
4 June 2013, 3:10 pm
Esoterica at its best!
I think there may be a few more in this series having looked at my hard drive collection!
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Lancashire Lanks Video Series Part 1 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/06/lancashire-lanks-video-series-part-1.html)
4 June 2013, 3:10 pm
Esoterica at its best!
I think there may be a few more in this series having looked at my hard drive collection!
There must be, G.
I didn't see a single esoteric crag in that vid... ;)
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:lol:
Good stuff!
When does the brand new series start though? ;)
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Very soon. Although i need to be quite careful with fingers as it's been 12m since I actually did anything!
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Yeah, it'll be dangerous putting such a huge amount of weight through them.
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I know, I'll have to watch it. :weakbench:
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Lancashire Lanks Series - Part 02 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/06/lancashire-lanks-series-part-02.html)
11 June 2013, 3:18 pm
More esoteric first ascents and quality problems in unexpected places.
Jumbles - Clown's Pocket Direct 7a (FA), Project Dyno, The Crescent of Embrace 7b (FA), Flight 93 7a (FA), Clown's pocket 6b+, Sit Thee Down 7a (2nd ascent)
Lower Montcliffe Quarry - Bach 7a+ (FA), Dinosaur Adventure 3D 6c+, Indian Face SDS 7a, Maid in Stone 7a (2nd ascent)
Parbold Quarry - Etna Eliminate 6b+ (FA), Fundamentalist 6c-ish, Mentalist 6b, Vesuvius variation 6b
Climbers: GCW, Nik at Work, Andy Emery, Rick Ginns
Music: Laurent Garnier - Crispy Bacon, Photek - The Hidden Camera
Lancashire Lanks Series - Part 02 (http://vimeo.com/68125364) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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If anyone is interested, the Jumbles Project Dyno is still up for grabs for anyone willing to require a skin graft. I was very close but never went back. 7b/+??
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Lancashire Lanks Video Series Part 2 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/06/lancashire-lanks-series-part-02.html)
11 June 2013, 3:18 pm
More esoteric first ascents and quality problems in unexpected places.
Jumbles - Clown's Pocket Direct 7a (FA), Project Dyno, The Crescent of Embrace 7b (FA), Flight 93 7a (FA), Clown's pocket 6b+, Sit Thee Down 7a (2nd ascent)
Lower Montcliffe Quarry - Bach 7a+ (FA), Dinosaur Adventure 3D 6c+, Indian Face SDS 7a, Maid in Stone 7a (2nd ascent)
Parbold Quarry - Etna Eliminate 6b+ (FA), Fundamentalist 6c-ish, Mentalist 6b, Vesuvius variation 6b
Climbers: GCW, Nik at Work, Robin Mueller, Andy Emery, Rick Ginns
Music: Laurent Garnier - Crispy Bacon, Photek - The Hidden Camera
Lancashire Lanks Series - Part 02 (http://vimeo.com/68125364) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Lancashire Lanks Video Series Part 3 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/07/lancashire-lanks-video-series-part-3.html)
1 July 2013, 3:32 pm
Part 3 of the esoterica series visits the excellent Stronstrey Bank Quarry, developed originally by Robin Mueller and later by myself. This quarry contains some excellent problems and gives some amazing sunsets.
I have also changed the music on the Lancs Lanks part 1 video as it was exactly the same as the Font video. Ooops.
The problems:
Bob On 6c (2nd ascent)
Cackhanded Compliment 6b+
David Vetter 7a+ (FA)
Tony Bland Dyno 6b+ (FA)
Wurz to come 5+ (FA)
Bratwurz 6a (FA)
Wurz than that, Jim 6c (FA)
Wurzealous 6c+ (2nd ascent)
Spanners 6b (FA)
Tony Bland Mantel 6a+ (FA)
Love Handle 4+
Mirth of the Ducks (3rd ascent)
Phat Haendel 6b
Phat Haendel Direct 6c (FA)
TREEEOH 6c (2nd ascent)
Sans Arete 7a (FA)
Climbers: GCW, Nik at work, MadMac
Music by Queen: Headlong, Teo Torriate (let us cling together)
Lancashire Lanks Series - Part 03 (http://vimeo.com/69459115) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Board: The beginning (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/07/board-beginning.html)
9 July 2013, 1:27 pm
As I'm about to start on the board project I thought I'd blog about it as others may find it useful in future.
Yesterday, I met up with the BeardyBeast. As he is moving he has taken down the Wall of Burl and wasn't able to shift the larger lumps of wood. He very kindly donated a lot of it to me, greatly appreciated.
So fifteen 4m and longer 2x4" bits of wood have moved from Chez Beast:
(http://www.genuki.org.uk/big/eng/LAN/Todmorden/ChristChurch.jpg) (http://www.genuki.org.uk/big/eng/LAN/Todmorden/ChristChurch.jpg)
To Chez Lank:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null.jpg)
There's something nice about the heart of the WoB becoming a new board, Wall of Lank?
And thanks to Mike for all the UKB efforts. Legend.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Progress (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/07/progress.html)
15 July 2013, 5:34 pm
On Saturday I bought a length of 2"x6", some brackets and screws and some MultiMontis.
Today I went to Chez Beast, who has very kindly donated some scaffolding and other bits. Today I've fitted the cross beam that will be the main weight bearing part of the board.
Beam attached to the right wall. This is a brick wall, attachment with four 10mm Multi Montis:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null-1.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null-1.jpg)
Left end of beam, wall is made of breeze block. Attached with a joist hanger that sits into the wall (slot cut) plus four rawl plugged screws:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null-2.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null-2.jpg)
Beam in situ, sorry it's not the clearest picture.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null-3.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null-3.jpg)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Looking good :2thumbsup:
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Pleased so far, nice and solid. As we discussed I think I'll be over cautious (paranoid?) and reinforce it with a beam up the right side. Legs aching today from going up and down scaffolding and crouching on the top!!
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Looks like a sizeable room. How big's the board, and what angle?
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Legs aching today from going up and down scaffolding and crouching on the top!!
Your fault for being so Lanky.
Good work... still got that stuff for you ;)
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Looks like a sizeable room. How big's the board, and what angle?
Off the top of my head, the length of the board is just over 4m at 30-32 degrees, meaning vertical height is about 3.6m. Can't fit a full width in due to pipes etc, so it's likely to be about 2.1m wide.
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Should do the trick!
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I certainly hope so.
I should have got Jennings to sign a piece of 2x4 for extra POWER!!!
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Strapped a 2x4" to the beam, the board will be approx 32.3 degrees.
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Strapped a 2x4" to the beam, the board will be approx 32.3 degrees.
approximately?
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Give or take.
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Committed (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/07/committed.html)
17 July 2013, 10:59 am
I've had a couple of very hot hours measuring and checking. I've managed to fit the first strut, which is the hardest as it doesn't rest on the floor due to a brick wall butting out: the bottom needed to be fixed off the floor but obviously parallel to future beams. I think I've got it right! The is fixed directly to the wall with Multi Montis (these really are awesome) plus a joist hanger at the bottom, more for assisting me with positioning than anything else. Crap photo of the joist- gives an idea of angle (32 degrees) and an idea of how I'm planning this out:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null-4.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null-4.jpg)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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the board will be approx 32.3 degrees.
Probably in both angle and temperature at the moment.
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I was sweating an incredible amount this morning, literally pouring off me. not fun.
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you've beaten me to the kickoff, our garage is still impenetrable.
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Update (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/07/update.html)
19 July 2013, 10:38 pm
Tonight I've sweated all the fluid from my eyeballs, but at least I now have three struts in position. Held up with a beam-to-beam joist hanger at the top and a joist hanger to stabilise the bottom end into a brick wall, these seem pretty solid. I've put them 30cm apart, meaning there will be eight struts for approximately 210cm width. Pleased.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null-5.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null-5.jpg)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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L'homme de fer and other stories (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/08/lhomme-de-fer-and-other-stories.html)
13 August 2013, 5:21 am
Back in Blighty after two weeks in France. It was too hot for me. Had a great time though. Short video here:
France 2013 (http://vimeo.com/72201812) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
As an aside, Mr H did his Iron Man at Bolton last weekend (from now on he shall be called Mr Iron). An inspiring performance, 2.4 mile swim + 112 mile cycle + run a marathon, all in 13 hours, 34 minutes and 3 seconds!! Awesome. Video courtesy of the Turnock Family:
I've spent today working on the Wall of Lank. All the beams are now in, and I've added a couple of stabilising cross members as well as a second transverse joist which is MultiMonty and Wall hanger fixed in the same way as the top beam. Coming along nicely and feeling very solid.
As an aside, a recent comment on the 2nd Silverdale video has highlighted grade discrepancies. Quite Right Mr C, 6a+ from now on.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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As an aside, Mr H did his Iron Man at Bolton last weekend (from now on he shall be called Mr Iron). An inspiring performance, 2.4 mile swim + 112 mile cycle + run a marathon, all in 13 hours, 34 minutes and 3 seconds!! Awesome. Video courtesy of the Turnock Family:
http://youtu.be/AWYa6oGoFCU (http://youtu.be/AWYa6oGoFCU)
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One layer done (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/08/one-layer-done.html)
19 August 2013, 3:41 pm
I've made more progress on the board in the last couple of days. A bit slower as the impact driver charger died so I'm awaiting a new one. I had to adjust one one strut as it wasn't quite in line but otherwise there haven't been any issues...... Yet.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/th_null-6.jpg) (http://s280.photobucket.com/user/CyLwiki/media/null-6.jpg.html)
Main frame- middle rafter still needs to be attached to the frame with joist hangers:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/th_null-7.jpg) (http://s280.photobucket.com/user/CyLwiki/media/null-7.jpg.html)
Kick board finished:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/th_null-8.jpg) (http://s280.photobucket.com/user/CyLwiki/media/null-8.jpg.html)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Back in the game! (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/08/back-in-game.html)
31 August 2013, 7:38 pm
The new impact driver charger is here and working well. What a Godsend, sooooo much quicker. So, progress has occurred today.
Bottom of three boards in situ:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null_zps6c64370b.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null_zps6c64370b.jpg)
Two boards in position:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null_zps5f3d7216.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null_zps5f3d7216.jpg)
I've run out of bolts, so I've ordered more. I only have another 40 T nuts and each board takes 60, so progress may slow a little. Pleased so far though.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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I love how you couldn't help but put on the first holds even with only the botto, board on!!!
:punk:
Gimme those sit starts session!!!
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Yeah, I know :-[
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Nearly there (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/10/nearly-there.html)
8 October 2013, 10:05 am
The Board Room is getting there now. A few weeks ago I finished off the board itself, and lined the kid's wall with plywood (attached to the wall with MultiMontis, of course). I've put on most of teh bolt on holds I have, other than 8 of the wooden holds (I haven't got a big enough Allen key!) and a couple of the Moon jugs (I had run out of long bolts). I have quite a few screw on foot dinks to add, but I'll have to play on the board more to see where they are to go. The kids board has 2 problems set so far.
I only got around to clearing out the room last week and tidied everything through - now there is no junk in there, I have measured up for matting and got a quote. I'll finalise this and get it ordered ASAP.
I had a play on the Board yesterday, and set a couple of problems which I can't do and which will no doubt end up being 6a+ or something stupid. I'll need to get the BeardyBeast or Pasty Lord here to calibrate my grading radar.
Lateral view:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_0777.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_0777.jpg)
AP view:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_0778.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_0778.jpg)
I am incredibly weak, and everything felt very hard. Hopefully that is motivation in itself......
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null_zps6c64370b.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/null_zps6c64370b.jpg)
Nice to see you've built a board for Nik!
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Well, most of it was his wood so it was the least I could do :lol:
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Good work G, I've not even cleaared space for mine yet.
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Pretty pleased with it, TBH. Lots of storage space behind it too as I've built a couple of storage shelves to keep all the scaffolding etc.
Big up to the Bearded One for all the help/ kind gifts. :2thumbsup:
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I think I'm going to need to phase the development, phase one being build a shed to keep all the bikes, buggys and gardening shit in.
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Looks fantastic!
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:great:
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Rain (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/10/rain.html)
29 October 2013, 2:32 pm
We did the Rivington Nightrunner 10k on Sunday in torrential rain and fog. I got a little lost up on the moor and romped home in a pathetic 1:17:33. The Iron Man was a shade over 1 hour. The kids did the 1km race and seemed to have fun.
We ran 17k yesterday along the last section of the Rivington Ultra 26 course, got soaked again. The weather has been rotten to say the least. Saturday I am off to Damnation to see Carcass, then the 26 is on Sunday. Hopefully I'll get under 5:30 for it.
I think I've got the matting for the Board Room sorted. I've played on the Wall of Lank a few times, feeling a little less weak but a loooong way to go yet.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Carcass (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/11/carcass.html)
2 November 2013, 11:18 pm
YYFY! Finally seen them live. They were amazing. They played my favourite song, CJQ, a great mix of tracks from all albums, and Ken's drum solo was really rather moving.
Driving home now as I have a little run in the morning. Buzzing!!!!
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Rivington Trail 26 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/11/rivington-trail-26.html)
4 November 2013, 6:58 pm
We did the Rivington Trail event yesterday. Quite windy and very muddy but very enjoyable.
I missed out on the 5:30 I wanted to get, but managed 5:39:36. Iron Man was a shade over five hours. Mini Dude 2 came second in the kids 1k race, Bon effort. I'm looking forward to the Howgills and Grizedale Trail 26 events now.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Carcass (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/11/carcass.html)
2 November 2013, 11:18 pm
YYFY! Finally seen them live. They were amazing. They played my favourite song, CJQ, a great mix of tracks from all albums, and Ken's drum solo was really rather moving.
Driving home now as I have a little run in the morning. Buzzing!!!!
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
Bill Steer watched my band play live once, apparently he enjoyed it!
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Board Room Finished (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/11/board-room-finished.html)
14 November 2013, 8:28 am
The matting came yesterday, and is all in situ (thanks to Steve from Holdz). It's really nice and the room is now finished (apart from a handful of holds still to go up). We all had a play on the Wall of Lank last night. Now it's time to get strong. I'll have to get the Pasty Lord round to give me some tips.
I've not heard from the Beardy Beast in ages - are you ok out there?
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/boardroom2.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/boardroom2.jpg)
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/boardroom1.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/boardroom1.jpg)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Brownstones re-edit (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/12/brownstones-re-edit.html)
12 December 2013, 8:00 am
Old HD footage of bouldering at Brownstones. I've got a load more on film but it's all old SD footage, and we don't want that sort of thing do we?
Bouldering at Brownstones Quarry near Bolton.
Big Muff 7a+, Lifeline SDS 7b, Groundhog Start 7a, Bloopers 6a+, Dezertion Eliminate 7b, Unpinched 7a+, Unjustice 7a, Lancashire PotHot 7a+, Nexus Dyno 6b, The Bad 7a+, Nightlife 7a, Dynostrung 6a (FA), The I.L.T. Dyno 6a (FA), Pigswill 6c+ (sitter 7a), Pigswill no tricks 7a+, PP 7a+, Ridiculous Dyno 7a+, Ridiculous Eliminate 7a+/b
Climbers: GCW, Robin Mueller, Andrew Emery
Music by Egebamyasi
Brownstones Quarry Bouldering (http://vimeo.com/81637160) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Yorkshire Lanks Part 1 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/12/yorkshire-lanks-part-1.html)
13 December 2013, 9:53 pm
Some old footage of Yorkshire with Nik, Amber and my late father.
GCW and Nik at Work enjoying God's own rock.
The Kebs (Bridestones) - Damned Spanky SDS 7b, Nine 7a, Holdless 7a+, Horror Arete 6c, Out of Sight 7a, 7b Wall, Jerry's Arete failure, Small and Smart 6b, Smarter 6b, Traverse 6b+, Cheeseblock Arete failure (I hate this problem!!)
Buckstones (Nont Sarah's) - Pig in a Pokey 7a+
Music: DJ Quicksilver - Eye of the Tiger, The Stone Roses - Made of Stone (808 State Mix)
Yorkshire Lanks Part 1 (http://vimeo.com/81830461) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
http://vimeo.com/81830461
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Yorkshire Lanks Part 2 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2013/12/yorkshire-lanks-part-2.html)
28 December 2013, 10:51 pm
More footage from sessions on the Yorkshire Gritstone; this time Almscliff.
Problems: Steve's Wall 7a+, Below the Decks 6c+, Underhand 7b+, Underhand Extension 7c, Crucifix Traverse 7a, Crucifix Reverse into Crucifix Arete 7a+, Dolphin Belly Slap 7a, Dreamland 7a+, Hot Dog Fromage Variation 7b, Traverse 6c, Traverse into Morrell's Wall 7a, Pebble Wall 6c+, Pistol Whip 7b, Si's Arete 7a+, Syrett's Roof 6c+, The Keel 7c
Climbers: Keith Bradbury, Andy Crome, Arran Deakin, Jim Hilliard, Nik Jennings, Adam Lincoln, GCW and Amber.
Sorry some of it is speeded up but I struggling getting a decent file size. The UKBouldering crew had a great day out in October 2008, cold conditions and some great ticks!
Yorkshire Lanks Part 2 (http://vimeo.com/82836813) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Yorkshire Lanks Part 3 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/01/yorkshire-lanks-part-3.html)
6 January 2014, 6:07 pm
I've had a few sessions on the board over the last couple of weeks. Feeling stronger than before and finally managed five of the original problems I set. Plenty more on the to do list though. I have noticed an improvement in core as well as finger strength. What I need to do next is get out and do some problems so that I have something to benchmark against. Oh, and get the BeardyBeast and Pasty Lord round too.
Here is the next in the Yorkshire video series of re-edits.
Nik at Work, Rick Ginns and GCW at Widdop.
Red Edge Right 5+, Red Edge Right no arete 6b, Red Edge Right one handed 6a, Red Edge Left 6a, Red Edge Traverse 6b+, Scoop 5, Secret Seventh 6c, Splashdown 6b, The Shelf 6b, Wall left of Splashdown 7a, Arete 4+, Wall and Crack 7a, Blunt Arete 6a, Dam Traverse 6b+, Fight on Black 7b, Pickpocket's Crack 6a+, Four Square SDS 6b, Grumpy Old Men 6b, Nasty Eliminate 6b+, Pickpocket's Wall 6a+, Pool Traverse 6b+
Music by Jeff Buckley: Grace, Forget Her
Yorkshire Lanks Part 3 - Widdop (http://vimeo.com/83495662) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Yorkshire Lanks Part 4 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/01/yorkshire-lanks-part-4.html)
13 January 2014, 6:18 pm
Usual Suspects, but it's Brimham Rocks this time.
Murky Rib 6a+, Murky Rib SDS 7a, The Anchor 7a+, The Big Green 7a, The Grouch 7b, Dolphin Nose Low Traverse 6b, Dolphin Nose Low 6c, Wall 6b, Double Dyno 5+, Black Chipper Arete 7a+, Hanging Flake 7a, The Lost World 7a
Climbers: Nik at Work, Rick Ginns, GCW
Music by Fleetwood Mac: Dreams, Go Your Own Way
Yorkshire Lanks Part 4 (http://vimeo.com/84041536) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Grizedale Ultra Trail 26 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/02/grizedale-ultra-trail-26.html)
23 February 2014, 5:22 pm
The Iron Man and I did this today. Heavy rain and some wind, and quite a tough course. The GPS gave 44km and about 1400m ascent. Watch time was 5:46:38, so quite pleased as I wanted under six hours.
Howgills next. Then the longer stuff.....
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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welldone awesome!! :great:
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Yeah, quite pleased as I'm certainly no runner.
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Aims for 2014 update (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/03/aims-for-2014-update.html)
20 March 2014, 8:13 am
I finished Tess of the d'Urbevilles last night, just started Crime and Punishment. So here's an update on Aims for 2014:
1. Use the board at least once a week. So far so good......
2. Boulder 7C or harder.
3. Reacquaint myself with Silverdale after two years of not visiting.
4. Do some trad with Nik at Work.
5. Tick two problems from the last few years Aims For lists.
6. Run another hill marathon or two. Done the Grizedale Ultra Trail 26, just the Howgills 26, the Three Rings of Shap 100km and the Lakeland 50 to go.
7. Find some new rock and do a good FA. No new rock yet, but 2 FAs one of which is pretty good.
8. Do at least twenty new Wainwrights. Not yet, but I'll get some done when I train for the Lakeland 50.
9. 7b in Font.
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100. Tess of the d'Urbevilles and Bleak House this year so far.
39 out of 100 read.
1. The Lord of the Rings, JRR Tolkien
2. Pride and Prejudice, Jane Austen
3. His Dark Materials, Philip Pullman
4. The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, Douglas Adams
5. Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, JK Rowling
6. To Kill a Mockingbird, Harper Lee
7. Winnie the Pooh, AA Milne
8. Nineteen Eighty-Four, George Orwell
9. The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, CS Lewis
10. Jane Eyre, Charlotte Brontë
11. Catch-22, Joseph Heller
12. Wuthering Heights, Emily Brontë
13. Birdsong, Sebastian Faulks
14. Rebecca, Daphne du Maurier
15. The Catcher in the Rye, JD Salinger
16. The Wind in the Willows, Kenneth Grahame
17. Great Expectations, Charles Dickens
18. Little Women, Louisa May Alcott
19. Captain Corelli's Mandolin, Louis de Bernieres
20. War and Peace, Leo Tolstoy
21. Gone with the Wind, Margaret Mitchell
22. Harry Potter And The Philosopher's Stone, JK Rowling
23. Harry Potter And The Chamber Of Secrets, JK Rowling
24. Harry Potter And The Prisoner Of Azkaban, JK Rowling
25. The Hobbit, JRR Tolkien
26. Tess Of The D'Urbervilles, Thomas Hardy
27. Middlemarch, George Eliot
28. A Prayer For Owen Meany, John Irving
29. The Grapes Of Wrath, John Steinbeck
30. Alice's Adventures In Wonderland, Lewis Carroll
31. The Story Of Tracy Beaker, Jacqueline Wilson
32. One Hundred Years Of Solitude, Gabriel García Márquez
33. The Pillars Of The Earth, Ken Follett
34. David Copperfield, Charles Dickens
35. Charlie And The Chocolate Factory, Roald Dahl
36. Treasure Island, Robert Louis Stevenson
37. A Town Like Alice, Nevil Shute
38. Persuasion, Jane Austen
39. Dune, Frank Herbert
40. Emma, Jane Austen
41. Anne Of Green Gables, LM Montgomery
42. Watership Down, Richard Adams
43. The Great Gatsby, F Scott Fitzgerald
44. The Count Of Monte Cristo, Alexandre Dumas
45. Brideshead Revisited, Evelyn Waugh
46. Animal Farm, George Orwell
47. A Christmas Carol, Charles Dickens
48. Far From The Madding Crowd, Thomas Hardy
49. Goodnight Mister Tom, Michelle Magorian
50. The Shell Seekers, Rosamunde Pilcher
51. The Secret Garden, Frances Hodgson Burnett
52. Of Mice And Men, John Steinbeck
53. The Stand, Stephen King
54. Anna Karenina, Leo Tolstoy
55. A Suitable Boy, Vikram Seth
56. The BFG, Roald Dahl
57. Swallows And Amazons, Arthur Ransome
58. Black Beauty, Anna Sewell
59. Artemis Fowl, Eoin Colfer
60. Crime And Punishment, Fyodor Dostoyevsky
61. Noughts And Crosses, Malorie Blackman
62. Memoirs Of A Geisha, Arthur Golden
63. A Tale Of Two Cities, Charles Dickens
64. The Thorn Birds, Colleen McCollough
65. Mort, Terry Pratchett
66. The Magic Faraway Tree, Enid Blyton
67. The Magus, John Fowles
68. Good Omens, Terry Pratchett and Neil Gaiman
69. Guards! Guards!, Terry Pratchett
70. Lord Of The Flies, William Golding
71. Perfume, Patrick Süskind
72. The Ragged Trousered Philanthropists, Robert Tressell
73. Night Watch, Terry Pratchett
74. Matilda, Roald Dahl
75. Bridget Jones's Diary, Helen Fielding
76. The Secret History, Donna Tartt
77. The Woman In White, Wilkie Collins
78. Ulysses, James Joyce
79. Bleak House, Charles Dickens
80. Double Act, Jacqueline Wilson
81. The Twits, Roald Dahl
82. I Capture The Castle, Dodie Smith
83. Holes, Louis Sachar
84. Gormenghast, Mervyn Peake
85. The God Of Small Things, Arundhati Roy
86. Vicky Angel, Jacqueline Wilson
87. Brave New World, Aldous Huxley
88. Cold Comfort Farm, Stella Gibbons
89. Magician, Raymond E Feist
90. On The Road, Jack Kerouac
91. The Godfather, Mario Puzo
92. The Clan Of The Cave Bear, Jean M Auel
93. The Colour Of Magic, Terry Pratchett
94. The Alchemist, Paulo Coelho
95. Katherine, Anya Seton
96. Kane And Abel, Jeffrey Archer
97. Love In The Time Of Cholera, Gabriel García Márquez
98. Girls In Love, Jacqueline Wilson
99. The Princess Diaries, Meg Cabot
100. Midnight's Children, Salman Rushdie
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Weird, the previous (more interesting post) seems to have avoided being sucked across to here.
Tuesday, 18 March 2014
Cadshaw
Yesterday I popped out for a couple of hours in the morning. I initially went to Stanworth, and got shut down on the first move of Backslash Bash which was irritating as it felt OK two weeks ago when I was there with the Pasty Lord.
I moved to Cadshaw. River blocks- wet. Giganticus- got nowhere. Red Wall.......
Now Red Wall is somewhere I have battled with a fair old bit. It's oddly conditions dependent, very fickle. Yesterday was the best I've seen it. I did Brian Jacques second go, RoB stand second go. I had a brief look at RoB sit (the old starting foothold is gone) and I don't think the breakage makes a huge difference for me.
I then looked at an old project - start in Brian Jacques, traverse the foul edges of RoB to dyno to the right arete jug and then carry on rightwards. Only one move I didn't do......
But then, what about a low traverse? This took quite a bit of work (and Skin) but once I'd worked out a tricky knee scud and a weird kneeling move, I managed to link it after a dozen goes. Outcast 6c+??. Quite pleased.
I also did a new dyno to the right of Hawkeye, going jug to jug. Great fun. Because it goes round the overlap it's a bit of a funny trajectory, which makes it all the more enjoyable. I'll call it Rakkety Tam 6b+ for now, sounds quite dyno like. I have a better video, but my PC is playing up so it's a 'phone video for now.
The LankyTwat is back..........
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Weird, the previous (more interesting post) seems to have avoided being sucked across to here.
Tuesday, 18 March 2014
Cadshaw
Yesterday I popped out for a couple of hours in the morning. I initially went to Stanworth, and got shut down on the first move of Backslash Bash which was irritating as it felt OK two weeks ago when I was there with the Pasty Lord.
I moved to Cadshaw. River blocks- wet. Giganticus- got nowhere. Red Wall.......
Now Red Wall is somewhere I have battled with a fair old bit. It's oddly conditions dependent, very fickle. Yesterday was the best I've seen it. I did Brian Jacques second go, RoB stand second go. I had a brief look at RoB sit (the old starting foothold is gone) and I don't think the breakage makes a huge difference for me.
I then looked at an old project - start in Brian Jacques, traverse the foul edges of RoB to dyno to the right arete jug and then carry on rightwards. Only one move I didn't do......
But then, what about a low traverse? This took quite a bit of work (and Skin) but once I'd worked out a tricky knee scud and a weird kneeling move, I managed to link it after a dozen goes. Outcast 6c+??. Quite pleased.
I also did a new dyno to the right of Hawkeye, going jug to jug. Great fun. Because it goes round the overlap it's a bit of a funny trajectory, which makes it all the more enjoyable. I'll call it Rakkety Tam 6b+ for now, sounds quite dyno like. I have a better video, but my PC is playing up so it's a 'phone video for now.
The LankyTwat is back..........
Welcome back old man. :clap2:
Stop running, your thighs are getting too chunky.
oh, no way 6c+, more like 6b+
I'll go take a look when I can climb again... :great:
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Shame, you'd have smashed Brian Jacques on Monday. More to go at, so I'll be back there and Stanworth soon.
oh, no way 6c+, more like 6b+
It felt harder than Brian Jacques and RoB stand, hence the lower grade.
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Cadshaw Video (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/03/cadshaw-video.html)
24 March 2014, 2:53 pm
Cadshaw and Baby Denham (http://vimeo.com/89839986) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Yorkshire Three Peaks (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/04/yorkshire-three-peaks.html)
2 April 2014, 10:36 pm
Today I ran these three hills. It was very windy and visibility wasn't great, especially on Werneside where I fell headlong and hurt my left shoulder. I got a tad lost going up Ingleborough and was held up by various parties Long the way. However, I did car to car in 6:28:24, which I was very disappointed with. I had hoped for under six hours, but it wasn't to be. Nice route, shame about the runner. 38.6km and 1442m ascent, in 6hrs 28mins. Poop, doesn't bode well for future events.
So here's some old footage of St Bees from Nik and I. Shit video I'm afraid, first outing with new software.
St Bees Bouldering (http://vimeo.com/90647195) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Denham Quarry 28/04/2014 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/05/denham-quarry-28042014.html)
1 May 2014, 7:17 am
I went back to Denham on Monday after a recent trip where I did nothing. I had noted a possible sit start to Hypno-Toad, but since I didn't get close to Hypno-Toad stand up I dismissed it last time.
This time I warmed up at the left end and managed to do R-Man's nice wall of Living Next Door To Acid (stand), so I thought I'd have another look at Hypno-Toad. It took ages to do the stand up, it's a weird move. The sitter adds one fairly OK move, but it's then harder to do the slap. I managed to link it after a good few goes. Very morpho, but I suggest 7a-ish for now. I then managed to do Snap Derision after not even managing to pull on last visit. It's about 7a now the broken hold has stabilised and is usable. When I did it originally, there was a crimp higher up and it was 7a+. When I snapped the crimp off, the sequence became harder and used a foul 2 finger sloper below the new hold (this is in the video below).
Video of the four things I did on Monday, plus some old footage from 2008 to 2011:
Denham Quarry Bouldering (http://vimeo.com/93422745) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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How's training on the home woody working out?
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Getting on it once a week at least, it's just having the time. I don't feel much stronger on the board, but feels a lot better outside.
EDIT: One thing I've noticed though, is that I'm keeping my feet on a lot more when on the board - better core??
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Cool. I still need to get finger out, bought another job lot of second hand holds, just need to get building!
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Get cracking, it's certainly worth it.
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Time, time, time see what's become of me :(
Going to get wood for frame next week.
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Good stuff G, better than all that running shit.
P.S. SA Chris have you still not built that woody? Hasn't it been in the conceptual stage for a few years now? And I thought of you as a good climbing ambassador, Ondra would get up a couple of hours earlier and build it before going to work...
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If he was a proper ambassador him and Gresham would have taken time out from their busy schedule to do it for me.
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Woo hoo (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/05/woo-hoo.html)
11 May 2014, 6:19 pm
A big clap for Ben as he helped significantly in his team's Under 10s cup victory in today's final. He played really well, made two great saves and was generally awesome. Nice one Ben!!
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Lakeland 50 Recce Pooley Bridge to Ambleside (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/05/lakeland-50-recce-pooley-bridge-to.html)
18 May 2014, 8:52 pm
Did this today with the Iron Man. Really, really, really hot. And tough.
46.2km
2000m ascent
7hrs 40.
Hard, but the 50 is a reality.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Howgills UltraTrail 26 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/05/howgills-ultratrail-26.html)
27 May 2014, 11:10 am
On Sunday the Iron Man and I had a trip to Sedburgh for this event. The Howgills are an area I have neglected in the past, quite wrongly it turns out as they are really nice hills- round, rugged, craggy, and good views.
The route is basically a big up in the first 5km, then up and down. Underfoot varied and was generally quite technical. Strangely, this felt the hardest of the three UT26s we have done, although last weekend's run may have something to do with it. I came in under six hours, which was my aim.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/14134F53-878E-443F-B6A3-30DD5109FEA2.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/14134F53-878E-443F-B6A3-30DD5109FEA2.jpg)
Rivington UltraTrail 26 3/11/13 43.9km 1016m ascent 5:39:36
Grizedale UltraTrail 26 23/2/14 43.6km 1183m ascent 5:46:59
Howgills UltraTrail 26 25/5/14 42.5km 1153m ascent 5:58:41
Incidentally, in 2014 I have run 535km and covered 8899m ascent, which is more than the height of Everest and was one of my aims this year. The other running aim remains unspoken.....
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Three Rings of Shap 14.06.2014 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/06/three-rings-of-shap-14062014.html)
16 June 2014, 6:04 pm
On Saturday I found myself in Shap for this event. I wanted to go under 20 hours on this to get an idea of how to approach the Lakeland 50.
The event started at 8am, and the first ring went along Wet Sleddale to Mosedale Cottage, then over Branstree and Selside Pike before heading back to Shap via Swindale (where you can see J Mascis from a distance, a problem I've had on my list for a while). I had wet feet from the Selside descent so changed socks at Shap (under 6 hours, ahead of schedule) (wet shoes though) and set off on Ring 2........
The second ring was my least favourite. It involved a lot of ups and downs through grassy fields and lots of stiles plus a couple of sections where I had to fight through fallen trees and nettles, cross felled tree plantations and go along river banks covered in roots. Feet soaked again early on and I had the start of good blisters by the time I got back to Shap. Oh well, only 20 more miles to go, and still ahead of schedule......
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Mobile%20Uploads/12C85331-8ACD-4D71-99F3-990493B414DD.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Mobile%20Uploads/12C85331-8ACD-4D71-99F3-990493B414DD.jpg)
I changed to my dry road shoes and fresh socks. Ring 3- I headed out on my own with two hours of light. A lady caught me up and ran/ walked with me- she knew the route. We both plodded round, getting past the first tricky section before dark. We managed to get through the Nature Reserve in the dark without getting lost, despite it having started to rain heavily. After the checkpoint at Great Asby, we struggled getting to Gaythorne Hall - this involved heading on a compass direction across open land for 900m to hit a stile. After using the GPS we were back on track. My companion was obviously flagging, actually falling asleep on the move. My feet were pretty caned by now, but there was no way I wasn't going to finish. We kept going all the way back to Shap, bedraggled. I think it was around 10 hours and 15 minutes, but the official time is awaited. Disappointed, but it was tough and I couldn't have left my colleague alone.
I started driving home, keen to be back in bed with my wife, but I was falling asleep, so I stopped at Killington Lake services and had 45 minutes sleep on the back seats under the sleeping bag. I was home by 7am.
Yesterday my legs were OK, but my feet weren't. I've had some fun driaining the worst blisters. Bring on the Lakeland 50. If that goes OK, where do we go next???? Maybe back to bouldering. Or have a good think about foot care.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Mobile%20Uploads/54645C5D-DDD7-4EF8-9D02-20AC0AD82D46.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Mobile%20Uploads/54645C5D-DDD7-4EF8-9D02-20AC0AD82D46.jpg)(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Mobile%20Uploads/85D1ACAA-BF98-4867-AA21-170892C72139.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Mobile%20Uploads/85D1ACAA-BF98-4867-AA21-170892C72139.jpg)(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Mobile%20Uploads/5A73E3CA-E9D8-4662-B2DC-39DFDA726504.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Mobile%20Uploads/5A73E3CA-E9D8-4662-B2DC-39DFDA726504.jpg)(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Mobile%20Uploads/112AC45D-B2A4-44F4-82AD-9A9CE070FF3F.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Mobile%20Uploads/112AC45D-B2A4-44F4-82AD-9A9CE070FF3F.jpg)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Back to bouldering you Dilbert.
Oh. Well done.
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Bouldering sounds a lot more fun actually whacking yourself in the nuts sounds more fun. You tried draining the blisters using a piece of cotton as a wick? Not medically sanctioned but it works.
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No, i wouldn't recommend that due to infection risk. I used a nice green sterile needle.
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Doesn't the hole just get blocked and they refill with fluid?
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If you make a small slit, no. Besides, with socks and shoes causing pressure they haven't re-filled. Sore though!
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Those big clear blister plaster things with a lump of gel in the middle work really well.. I was very sceptical, but having used them a couple of times they're ace. Stay on for a few days and the gel cushions (and maybe cools) the blister...
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Compeed?
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Compeed?
Yup - looks like them. Very unglamorously, I went to a conference - wore new pair of shoes that rubbed - was there for 2-3 days only had those shoes. Bizarrely the students union at the conference sold these blister plasters. Perfect.
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I had Compeed on all the usual hot spots, it's just that wet feet for 65 miles trumps little sticky dressings every time!! :lol:
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When i was doing a lot of ski touring my crap boots used to rip holes in my shins, so i had to resort to large compeed, plus fingertape wrapped around to keep them in place. Hurt a tad when removing it!
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Results (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/06/results.html)
20 June 2014, 1:39 pm
Results now out. Ring One 5 hrs 5 minsRing Two 7 hrs 25 minsRing Three 7 hrs 42 mins
Total: 20 hrs 12 minutes104.5km and 2008m ascent.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Slow. Slower. Slowest. :shit:
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Test embed (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/07/test-embed.html)
4 July 2014, 1:52 pm
Monday's run, just an attempt to embed the GPS trace from Strava:
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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UTLD 50 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/07/utld-50.html)
27 July 2014, 4:31 pm
The Lakeland 50 started at 11:30 yesterday. I've looked forward to this for months, and after doing 66 miles for the Three Rings of Shap I was confident too. I had intended to do this event to see how it felt with consideration for looking to doing the 100 in the future.
5:00 - my alarm went off and I was up, showered and eating breakfast and coffee.
6:30 - left home with Iron Man heading to Coniston to check in.
7:15 - realised last check in was at 8:00 and we were an hour away.
7:58 - arrived in Coniston and the Iron Man got into registration.
8:05 - I was weighed (88.4kg fatty), kit checked, I paid for Iron Man's new waterproof as his failed the kit check, and we were in. Phew.
11:15 - we clapped though a load of 100 runners whilst we awaited the start. Impressive.
11:30 - after the excellent briefing from Marc et al we set off.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/D0B6530A-935F-4C06-ABE7-6E6D35F60D99.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/D0B6530A-935F-4C06-ABE7-6E6D35F60D99.jpg)
What can I say- it was HOT and I suffered. We got to Howtown in 2:23:39, topped up on fluids and got ready for my least favourite part - Fusedale. On the recce I had my ass kicked on this section because it was too hot. Same today. I suffered on this ascent despite dousing my head and cap in streams, but we got to Mardale Head in 3:22:31 (total 5:46:10). Here was the Spartans tent where we had carrot and coriander soup, flat coke and sugary tea. Really great checkpoint, despite the bodies everywhere.
The section over Gatesgarth pass was slow. My legs weren't up to the job, I could only trudge slowly but stubbornly upwards. Once at the top we ran down the valley. Very frustrating but I think the heat had me. After the brief up and over, the descent to Kentmere went well. 2:29:23 for this section (total 8:15:33). I had pasta and tea and coke, lamented that the parking charge here has gone from £1 per day to £3 and off we went.
It won't come as a surprise that the Garburn Pass kicked my ass too, 40 minutes from church to summit. However, after this we ran all the way down. The short cut over to Ambleside was a lot of up again, but near the top it began to piss it down and quickly I was soaked. Despite being around 11pm Ambleside gave us a great welcome, and the checkpoint was another good one. Bodies and foil blankets everywhere. Butternut squash soup, amazing at this point. Sarnies and crisps. A real boost. 2:46:01 for this leg, 11:01:34 total.
Off we went for Chapel Stile. This section went well despite the dark and occasionally tricksy nav. Another amazing marquee, with a brazier outside and sofas inside. More tea, beef stew and a map check. 2:07:36 leg, 13:09:10 total.
Our next target was the self check on Wrynose. We managed to navigate past the worst bog and self checked after 1:47:32 (total 14:56:42), then ran a lot of the section to the Tilberthwaite checkpoint 50:23 leg, 15:47:05 total). Here, we had tea and little else got on our way up the sting in the tail. Steep and technical ground led to the summit, and then steep and technical ground led down the other side. We were back at Coniston in in 1:30:11 (the thoughts 3.5 miles ever?), to complete in a total time of 17:17:16. Slower than what I wanted, but great nonetheless and great food for thought.
We started the drive back, but needs 40 minutes sleep before the M6 so we got back around 7am to find my fab wife was up with breakfast and Bloody Marys for us, what a great welcome.
If I'm going to think about the 100 I need to invest a lot of time and effort. I suspect my bouldering goals will mean a lot more to me. I need to relax and have a good think. In the meantime rather happy.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/5928ADB5-1A75-46B1-959E-64A7C24D3853.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/5928ADB5-1A75-46B1-959E-64A7C24D3853.jpg)
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Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Effort beast...
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Stony Edge video (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/10/stony-edge-video.html)
9 October 2014, 11:26 am
Short video of Stony Edge from a couple of weeks ago. Couldn't get it online any sooner due to utter computer death.
Nice venue with lots more to go back for. Grow some skin first though.....
Stony Edge (http://vimeo.com/108444811) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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You still using PP? Or else what did you plump for?
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Currently using my old copy of premiere elements, which seems to save Vimeo videos with a slight up and down jiggle. Later, I may get something else.....
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UTLD Recce No 1 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/11/utld-recce-no-1.html)
11 November 2014, 11:54 am
Sunday was the first Lakeland 100 recce, Coniston to Buttermere: the first quarter (ish) of the hundred. 26 miles, 2000m ascent. I had vague hopes of getting round in 8 hours, so that a 10 hour stretch from Buttermere to Dalemain would give 22 hours to get round the second half of the course. Oh dear.
I arrived at Buttermere at 7:15 and parked up on the verge a fair way up Newlands. The coaches were later than planned and got to Coniston for 10:00. It was raining a lot and the becks were overflowing. My plan was to try to get each checkpoint ticked in 2 hour lumps. First checkpoint at Seathwaite sub 2 hours. Great. Boot in 4 hours. Great, although underfoot was horrendously wet. Wasdale Head 5:40, great. I was at the top of Black Sail before dark, but then teamed up with a guy from Manchester for the last bit in pitch black with loads of stars now the rain had eased. Two women in front of us went straight down from Scarth Gap, going totally off route. We were slower than I would have liked but finished in just under 9 hours. I'm sure in better conditions and going at my own pace I can knock a good half hour off this time.
Timings may well be tight on the day, I'll have to see how things go with the next lot of events/ recces. Gulp.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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2014 Round Up (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2014/12/2014-round-up.html)
31 December 2014, 10:48 am
The end of 2014
Here we are on the eve of a new year, so it's time to look back on the last 12 months and see what has been going on. 2014 has been quite a tough year really, and I won't be too sad to see the back of it. Various family tragedies and sadness have put a bit of a downer on the year, and I'm very much looking forward to 2015 being a year of happiness. But let's put a happy spin on matters and see what positives 2014 gave us:
January
Quiet month, got out running a fair bit.
February
Grizedale UltraTrail 26 43.6km 1183m ascent 5:46:59
A fun day out in less than ideal conditions.
March
I grabbed a day out at Cadshaw and nailed two first ascents, Rakkety Tam (a great 6b+ dyno) and Outcast (a fun 6c/+ traverse with a really nice slopy sidepull).
April
I spent a couple of hours at Denham, did two 7as (R-man's Living Next Door to Acid and my own Snap Derision) and added a sitter to Hypno-TOad, at 7a-ish. Very pleasing day out!
I also ran the Yorkshire 3 Peaks for fun and training: 38.6km and 1442m ascent, in 6hrs 28mins.
May
Howgills UltraTrail 26 42.5km 1153m ascent 5:58:41
UTLD Recce - Pooley Bridge to Ambleside 46.2km 2000m ascent 7:40. Ouch.
June
Three Rings of Shap, my longest event to date. 104.5km and 2008m ascent in 20:12. Took my feet quite a while to recover from this one.
July
UTLD 50 80.9km, 2774m ascent, 17:17:16. Really enjoyed this one, and it felt OK. I'm sure it won't after doing the first 55 miles of the hundred next time around.
August
Got another year older, and had two weeks in France. Our holiday was rather disrupted by the death of my father in law and my wife's ankle injury and huge reaction to oysters, but we still managed some really good days.
September
Not a lot really.
October
Rivington Trail 26: 43km and 1229m ascent in 5:48:46, slower than last year.
The Lancashire Bouldering Guidebook arrived too, which has been long awaited and very well received. I'm not sure it'll make my fortune or if I'll become a celeb, but it looks good and has some fantastic problems in it.
November
UTLD Recce - Coniston to Buttermere. 42.5km and 2057m ascent in just under 9 hours. Much slower than I had wanted.
December
Had a really good day with the family, which felt very relaxed, despite another bereavement on Christmas Eve. Best Christmas dinner ever!! Great set of presents all round too.
Aims for 2014
So what of the aims for 2014? Rather a mixed bag really:
1. Use the board at least once a week.
Running got in the way somewhat, but for a while I was on the board regularly and feeling stronger. Slipped a bit recently but very keen to get back on it and get stronger.
2. Boulder 7C or harder.
Not a chance.
3. Reacquaint myself with Silverdale after two years of not visiting.
I didn't visit this year, and I've only been out on rock a handful of times. Again, running has taken over.
4. Do some trad with Nik at Work.
To my shame (and the cat eating all my trad gear), this never happened.
5. Tick two problems from the last few years Aims For lists.
There's a theme developing here.....
6. Run another hill marathon or two.
Grizedale Ultra Trail 26, Howgills 26, the Three Rings of Shap 100km, the Lakeland 50, Rivington Trail 26 and UTLD recce. 6 hill marathons ticked this year. I've run 1009.4km this year, with 18,266m of ascent. Wow.
7. Find some new rock and do a good FA.
No new rock yet, but 3 FAs which is pretty good.
8. Do at least twenty new Wainwrights.
No new Wainwrights at all this year! I've run past a lot though.
9. 7b in Font.
Err, no.
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100.
Didn't manage ten, but I'm up to 44% read now and still trawling through Middlemarch:
1. The Lord of the Rings, JRR Tolkien
2. Pride and Prejudice, Jane Austen
3. His Dark Materials, Philip Pullman
4. The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, Douglas Adams
5. Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, JK Rowling
6. To Kill a Mockingbird, Harper Lee
7. Winnie the Pooh, AA Milne
8. Nineteen Eighty-Four, George Orwell
9. The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, CS Lewis
10. Jane Eyre, Charlotte Brontë
11. Catch-22, Joseph Heller
12. Wuthering Heights, Emily Brontë
13. Birdsong, Sebastian Faulks
14. Rebecca, Daphne du Maurier
15. The Catcher in the Rye, JD Salinger
16. The Wind in the Willows, Kenneth Grahame
17. Great Expectations, Charles Dickens
18. Little Women, Louisa May Alcott
19. Captain Corelli's Mandolin, Louis de Bernieres
20. War and Peace, Leo Tolstoy
21. Gone with the Wind, Margaret Mitchell
22. Harry Potter And The Philosopher's Stone, JK Rowling
23. Harry Potter And The Chamber Of Secrets, JK Rowling
24. Harry Potter And The Prisoner Of Azkaban, JK Rowling
25. The Hobbit, JRR Tolkien
26. Tess Of The D'Urbervilles, Thomas Hardy
27. Middlemarch, George Eliot
28. A Prayer For Owen Meany, John Irving
29. The Grapes Of Wrath, John Steinbeck
30. Alice's Adventures In Wonderland, Lewis Carroll
31. The Story Of Tracy Beaker, Jacqueline Wilson
32. One Hundred Years Of Solitude, Gabriel García Márquez
33. The Pillars Of The Earth, Ken Follett
34. David Copperfield, Charles Dickens
35. Charlie And The Chocolate Factory, Roald Dahl
36. Treasure Island, Robert Louis Stevenson
37. A Town Like Alice, Nevil Shute
38. Persuasion, Jane Austen
39. Dune, Frank Herbert
40. Emma, Jane Austen
41. Anne Of Green Gables, LM Montgomery
42. Watership Down, Richard Adams
43. The Great Gatsby, F Scott Fitzgerald
44. The Count Of Monte Cristo, Alexandre Dumas
45. Brideshead Revisited, Evelyn Waugh
46. Animal Farm, George Orwell
47. A Christmas Carol, Charles Dickens
48. Far From The Madding Crowd, Thomas Hardy
49. Goodnight Mister Tom, Michelle Magorian
50. The Shell Seekers, Rosamunde Pilcher
51. The Secret Garden, Frances Hodgson Burnett
52. Of Mice And Men, John Steinbeck
53. The Stand, Stephen King
54. Anna Karenina, Leo Tolstoy
55. A Suitable Boy, Vikram Seth
56. The BFG, Roald Dahl
57. Swallows And Amazons, Arthur Ransome
58. Black Beauty, Anna Sewell
59. Artemis Fowl, Eoin Colfer
60. Crime And Punishment, Fyodor Dostoyevsky
61. Noughts And Crosses, Malorie Blackman
62. Memoirs Of A Geisha, Arthur Golden
63. A Tale Of Two Cities, Charles Dickens
64. The Thorn Birds, Colleen McCollough
65. Mort, Terry Pratchett
66. The Magic Faraway Tree, Enid Blyton
67. The Magus, John Fowles
68. Good Omens, Terry Pratchett and Neil Gaiman
69. Guards! Guards!, Terry Pratchett
70. Lord Of The Flies, William Golding
71. Perfume, Patrick Süskind
72. The Ragged Trousered Philanthropists, Robert Tressell
73. Night Watch, Terry Pratchett
74. Matilda, Roald Dahl
75. Bridget Jones's Diary, Helen Fielding
76. The Secret History, Donna Tartt
77. The Woman In White, Wilkie Collins
78. Ulysses, James Joyce
79. Bleak House, Charles Dickens
80. Double Act, Jacqueline Wilson
81. The Twits, Roald Dahl
82. I Capture The Castle, Dodie Smith
83. Holes, Louis Sachar
84. Gormenghast, Mervyn Peake
85. The God Of Small Things, Arundhati Roy
86. Vicky Angel, Jacqueline Wilson
87. Brave New World, Aldous Huxley
88. Cold Comfort Farm, Stella Gibbons
89. Magician, Raymond E Feist
90. On The Road, Jack Kerouac
91. The Godfather, Mario Puzo
92. The Clan Of The Cave Bear, Jean M Auel
93. The Colour Of Magic, Terry Pratchett
94. The Alchemist, Paulo Coelho
95. Katherine, Anya Seton
96. Kane And Abel, Jeffrey Archer
97. Love In The Time Of Cholera, Gabriel García Márquez
98. Girls In Love, Jacqueline Wilson
99. The Princess Diaries, Meg Cabot
100. Midnight's Children, Salman Rushdie
So what of next year?
As I mentioned on UKB (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php), I have 2 aims for 2015:
1. Don't die trying to do the Lakeland 100.
2. Get back to climbing after the Lakeland 100.
The UTLD 100 (http://www.lakeland100.com/) makes me nervous, not so much because of the distance but more that the cut off times a quite tight for a slow runner like me.
I'm looking forward to getting back on the rock, and the new Lancashire Bouldering Guidebook (http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/) is there to give inspiration.
More than anything, what 2014 has shown us all is that life is precious and rather fragile. It's too short to get up tight, and to worry about minor issues. It should be lived to the full, taking any opportunity going and wringing all we can from it. I'm very lucky to have a fabulous wife and step-children, and such a great home life. Not everyone has that, and I'm realising more each day how lucky I am.
So here's to 2015 - let's make it a great year. Happy New year everyone.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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That's actually some reasonably impressive brisk walking G, nice one.
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Good stuff Gareth, see you on the rocks next year!
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I'll see if I can get out more than three times this year!!
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I'll see if I can get out more than three times this year!!
Keep getting on the board and you'll be back crushing everything in sight ;)
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Tidying up (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2015/01/ive-been-feeling-bit-under-weather-for.html)
19 January 2015, 12:31 pm
I've been feeling a bit under the weather for the last week. Running the Guild Wheel on Monday 12th January in blasting winds and rain probably didn't help. 35.4km according to the GPS, which is a little further than the official 21 miles. It took 4 hours and 12 minutes, which is slower than expected but OK considering the condition. Looking forward to the UTLD rec. next weekend, the night run from Ambleside to Coniston.
I bought Final Cut Pro recently, and had a little play around this morning. Edited some footage I captured back in October, but I'm not used to using it yet. I'm sure I'll get used to it fairly soon.
Had a little play on the board yesterday, feeling dreadfully weak but that's motivation to get on it more I suppose.......
Short Wilton 3 visit (http://vimeo.com/117160592) from GCW (http://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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UTLD Recce Number 2: Ambleside to Coniston (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2015/01/utld-recce-number-2-ambleside-to.html)
25 January 2015, 12:55 am
Andrew and I did this event tonight (technically lay night due to the lateness of the hour). We were driven from Coniston to Ambleside in a scorchingly hot coach. We were both glad to get off and get running.
We made good progress on the ascent from Ambleside and along the rivers to get to the Chapel Stile checkpoint with (some) daylight left. I had some cheese and onion crisps and off we went. The next leg to Tilberthwaite was quite boggy, but my shoes did their job and my feet were ok. After the brutal ascent out of Langdale we cruised through to the Tilberthwaite checkpoint. I had my own banana supplemented with jelly babies and a cookie, and a well needed bladder decompression.
I hate the last leg. Tonight it felt better, not having done 47 miles to get to it, but it still worries me for the 100. We pushed on this leg, nailing it in around an hour.
We both felt good on this run, and we finished in 3 hours 48 minutes. Considering we took 6 hours 11 minutes when we did the 50, that ain't bad!
Grizedale 26 next I think. Then it's the nasty recce from Buttermere to Dalemain......
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Grizedale Ultra Trail 26. 8th February 2015 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2015/02/grizedale-ultra-train-26-8th-february.html)
10 February 2015, 5:22 pm
On Sunday it was the Grizedale Trail (http://www.trail26.com/) event. Last year I did this with the Iron Man, but this year he had stuff on that clashed and precluded his involvement. As with the Coniston - Buttermere recce, I was to miss the company.
It was a bright morning but with lots of freezing fog, the car suggesting minus four for most of the journey up. I hoped that the sun would burn this off and the day would be clear with good views, but it wasn't to be. After the briefing we set off on the first loop. This is all on forest trails and isn't as interesting as the second loop. The first "half" marathon seemed to be nearly 24k. The mist never really cleared, there was ice underfoot and it was cold out of the sun.
Loop 2 goes over the tops to Windermere, then along the lakeside for a couple of km before a steep up to head back to Grizedale. I finished in 6hrs 16, a lot slower than last year but the course was longer this time. Felt fine though, even on the last steep ascents. Next up is the Buttermere to Dalemain recce. Gulp.
The ascent out of Near Sawrey:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/786F749D-3AF1-40A8-97CE-4C95D4E993A1.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/786F749D-3AF1-40A8-97CE-4C95D4E993A1.jpg)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Out on the rock (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2015/03/out-on-rock.html)
22 March 2015, 4:09 pm
Stronstrey Bank 18/03/2015
It's been a long time since I was last climbing at Stronstrey, probably around the time I put up David Vetter etc etc. It was very sunny and hot on Monday, and I was off for the day. Recent videos of hard problems on the Lone Boulder whetted my appetite. I went straight to this odd-ball boulder. It's been a long time since I was here, my last visit was with my late father and he's been dead a good few years now.
I did Jim Reaper pretty easily via a sneaky heel-toe cam. My own Day-Glo Man went down second go, after brushing off a load of crud - I don't think this gets much attention. Noisy Cricket was impossible, I blame the head but me being very out of condition may not have helped.....
I did Grim Leaper, again via a naughty foot lock. After this I had a play on the Fun Boulder, then headed home. Need to get (a lot) stronger and then come back for a rematch.
Stronstrey 18/3/2015 (https://vimeo.com/122854665) from GCW (https://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Higher Chelburn 20/03/2015
I had a day off on Friday to use up annual leave. Whilst driving over to Summit I got a decent view of the Solar Eclipse. Good, but I think the 1999 one was better. Once I parked up as per Robin's guide, I realised this is where Nik and I came to on our last trip together (http://nikjennings.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/summit-solo.html). It took exactly 12 minutes to walk to the first area (as predicted). I did a load of easy stuff, and Small Star which was excellent. I moved over to the next area and did a couple of problems on the big boulder - these were a bit damp, rather scrittly and felt a bit unnerving due to the pit beneath them. I had a look at Expletive but the break was popping, so I did the easier version using the sidepull. After this was the trio of excellent problems including Clarion Call - I flashed all three, and they are very good.
I had a look at the Chilli Burn boulder, but it was seeping (and too hard). I picked up some finger tape and banana skins that someone had left there, rather disappointing this is happening already. After this my skin had had enough so I left.
On my way home I dropped in at Roundbarn, which was wet, and had a wander around. Catfoot looks great so I think I'll head back this week if the weather remains dry.
Yesterday I did a new 10k route from home in my new Mudclaw 300s - got some heel rub and a blister on my right second toe. I'll not be wearing these next weekend for the Buttermere to Dalemain rec.!! A gentle 5k this morning was OK though.
So the plan is to get out on the rock this week - maybe Roundbarn +/- Jumbles. I'll also get the Higher Chelburn video online once my Vimeo allowance resets.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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What a pain in the arse (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2015/03/what-pain-in-arse.html)
28 March 2015, 4:13 pm
Firstly, here's the Higher Chelburn video as promised. Lots of easy stuff, but a good few hours out.
Higher Chelburn - Eclipse Day - 20/3/2015 (https://vimeo.com/123483877) from GCW (https://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
I had a day off on Friday and was keen to head somewhere different. I was going to head to Roundbarn first, then Knowle Heights later but Pasty Lord was potentially available later. I opted to hit Knowle Heights first.
When I got there it looked dry, but there was a big group of teens hanging about drinking (10:30am). This felt pretty intimidating as I'd be bouldering right next to them, so I opted to change the plan (I ran away).
I headed to Roundbarn keen for a look at Catsfoot and Whisker. They both had water running down them, so I look at the left end first. Second go on Leave Your Hat On using R-man's high right heel and something went pop in my right hip. This was really sore, and I couldn't use the heel again. I linked it soon after. I did a few other bits here, including the 6c+ dyne which I found pretty OK (due to lank and liking dynes I guess). Quiver Upriver was also damp, but I could get to the break fine before being slimed off the next bit. Should be fine when dry. I had one try at Whisker, but the top holds were streaming.
I went to look at Stanworth on my way home, only to find a new 6' green fence that seemed to go all the way round. I didn't want to start trying to hop it, so left and went home.
Today I woke with more pain in my right hip - certainly looks like I've done something to a hamstring. I was supposed to be doing the Buttermere to Dalemain recce for the UTLD 100 tomorrow. I tried a short run this morning, but barely managed a mile as the pain and stiffness got worse with each step. No way can I do 33 hill miles this weekend, so I've had to pull out of the recce. We'll have to arrange our own at a later date.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Training or failing? (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2015/05/i-had-entered-ldwa-red-rose-100-mile.html)
27 May 2015, 12:59 am
I had entered the LDWA Red Rose 100 mile event as part of my training for the UTLD 100. Saturday morning saw me parked up at Rivington school and being taken by minibus to the start of the event. After being checked in and having my halfway bag deposited, I had some tea and toast and waited for the start.
Leg one I knew well, from the Anderton centre via Go Ape and then up to Pigeon Tower. Then across the cobble road that Andrew and I know well to skirt into Belmont and onto the bit of the Rivvy 26 route I hate. This dropped me at CP1. Jaffa cakes, custard donuts and crackers and cheese were very welcome.
Leg two took us over Darwen Tower and then back down to Feniscliffe, where sandwiches did the trick. Sixteen miles in and going well. My game plan was to keep under 15 minutes per km, as this is 40 hour pace for 100 miles.
The next bit was quite hilly and took us over a few grassy hills, busy roads and boring stomps over golf courses. I arrived at Whalley with sore feet, 8:20 after 28 miles. I popped a few blisters and applied Compeed. The next leg was a fun one, with a lot of up and down and bog.
Getting to Barley involved a lot of dancing over bog but I managed to keep my feet dry. Here was on offer minestrone, vegetable soup, or pizza crumpet. I had one of the latter, which was tomato purée on crumpet, toasted with cheese on top. Really nice at this point.
Next was Pendle Hill. In the dark. Anyway, off I went. Up and up it seemed. Near the top I met a witch and her cat, who clipped my card and gave me sweets. On the way off the top I did wonder if we were going the right way. The route card said head at 330 but the path everyone was taking didn't match this. After a while I stopped to check my position, which agreed with the planned route.
Downham. Midnight. 14 hours in, sore hamstring, various blisters. 40 miles in, and mind games came along. Not near my previous 66 Mile best but there's plenty to concern me.
Anyway, I got to Downhan. 40 miles in, a week after a hill marathon. I was gutted not to finish but I
wanted to get back to my lovely wife and our bed. Would you rather cuddle up to your fantastic wife, or continue stomping through the paths of Lancashire?????
The lack of Andrew being there was a major downer which had a huge effect on my mental approach. So, I dropped out here. Various reasons, but the hamstring was an issue which I didn't want to aggravate and blisters won't help my recce this weekend- Andrew and I are going to scope out the second quarter of the hundred. 26 miles last weekend, 40 this weekend and 33 next weekend. Not bad training for distance. Best keep the distance up, rather than killing myself with 100 miles on a bad bum!
Anyway, lessons learned
Roll on the 100.......
This was all walked, and the GPS ain't right.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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UTLD recce Buttermere to Dacre (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2015/06/utld-recce-buttermere-to-dacre.html)
3 June 2015, 8:10 pm
The family had a weekend at a cottage in Thornthwaite at the weekend, and the Iron Man came up to recce the second "quarter" of the Lakeland 100 route on the Saturday with me. This is the bit we missed because I pulled my hamstring, and as half of it will be done in the dark it was important to have a look at it. On the day I really want to get this section done in under 11 hours, plus the 9 for the first bit, meaning we hit Dalemain at 20 hours. Ambitious maybe, but it's a plan.
We drove to Buttermere and set off at 7am. We were lucky with the weather on the day. Dry, but pretty hot later on. The first leg over the tops to get to Braithwaite was nice, a good section uphill followed by interesting down sections to the checkpoint. We had a drink and some fluid here. 1:54 for this bit.
The next section drags along by the A66, then along bits of railway (all of which I found a little dull) and then sneaks uphill to contour round Lonscale fell to an unmanned checkpoint, then back down the other side of the valley to the Blencathra centre. Another drink and snack. 2:14 for this leg.
A good bit of down then leads along the railway again until a boggy up section to gain the old coach track around Matterdale Common and eventually to Dockray checkpoint, in a car park a couple of km before the village. 1:59 to here.
The next bit worked through some woods past Aira Force, which needed a bit of attention. Then up and around Gowbarrow Fell, which was a bit of slog in the heat. After this was a few boring km on roads to get to Dacre. Under 8:30 for the whole lot, which is great. Although, add on a bit for the next couple of km to Dalemain.
Some interesting points in a UTLD presentation by Dr Ian Boardley, available online here (https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?resid=33931589BE761A90!4131&ithint=file,pptx&app=PowerPoint&authkey=!AJ_PrgmV3LfT0DA).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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:bow:
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32 miles is a bit different from 105 though, fatneck!! :sick:
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Two Rings of Shap 13/06/2015 (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2015/06/two-rings-of-shap-13062015.html)
17 June 2015, 10:29 pm
Iron Man and I headed up to Shap on Saturday for this event. I did all three rings last year (http://lankytwat.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/three-rings-of-shap-14062014.html) as preparation for the UTLD 50. We had entered this year as part of the last five weeks' events, in order to continue to maintain distance.
Over the last five weeks I've done 26 miles, 42 miles, 31 miles, weekend off, 42 miles over 5 Saturdays. I'm hoping this is fair prep for the 100. I have a game plan, but still quite a few things to get straight in my mind.
We set off at 8am again this year. The first Ring is my favourite, heading out towards the Lake District to climb over to Mosedale Cottage, then up Branstree to a self clip. After this a nice run over to Selside Pike (with a view of the nasty run along Haweswater for the UTLD 100), then down the lovely waterfalls of Swindale. The bridge at the bottom of the valley had been rebuilt, so we avoided the boggy section that got mealiest year, and were at Truss Gap checkpoint with dry feet. The next up and over was a lot less wet than last year too, so we were back at Shap in good shape, and twenty minutes quicker than I managed last year.
We dibbed in, and then changed shoes (which adds an extra 20 odd minutes to the loop time). The second loop takes in a lot of fields with long grass to get to the three rivers involved. First is River Lyvennet, and this year I wasn't chased by cows and the horrid path through the woods was bypassed. Iron Man had hurt his knee on the Swindle descent and this started to tell by the checkpoint at Great Strickland. I think the heat had got to him a bit too as he was feeling pretty sickly.
We managed to continue through the remainder of the Ring, not getting lost (having done it last year really helped at times) on the way to the self check at a road junction. A bourbon biscuit or two here, then onwards back along the River Lowther with its brilliant suspension bridge.
Anyway, we were back at Shap in 12:33:31 after 42 miles and a good day out. I had a cup of tea and one of veg soup before we got kit sorted and got going home for a beer.
Results for Shap:
2014
Ring One (29 km) 5:05
Ring Two (39 km) 7:25 (12:30 for two rings)
Ring Three (32 km) 7:42
Total 20:12
2015
Ring One (29 km) 4:45:20
Ring Two (39 km) 7:41:22
Total 12:33:31
Three Rings of Shap 2014:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Shap-2.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Shap-2.jpg)
Two Rings of Shap 2015:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Shap.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Shap.jpg)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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32 miles is a bit different from 105 though, fatneck!! :sick:
I know but for a man for whom a 2 mile run is like a death sentence it's inspirational! Nice one...
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Five weeks to go!!! :o
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Lakeland 100 - Ultra Tour of the Lake District (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2015/07/lakeland-100-ultra-tour-of-lake-district.html)
28 July 2015, 11:26 pm
This has been a long time coming, especially for my lovely wife who has been long suffering. She has put up with late night wind noise as I watched and re-watched John Kynaston and Dave Troman's excellent videos (http://johnkynaston.com/lakeland-100/lakeland-100-videos/) , looked after children and cooked for us when the Iron Man and I had been out all Saturday doing training runs or recess, listened to me go on endlessly about plans, pitfalls and doubts. A big thanks to my wife, I certainly wouldn't be here writing this without you. As I said in my aims for 2015 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25121.msg467912.html#msg467912), "1. Don't die trying to do the Lakeland 100 2. Get back to climbing after the Lakeland 100." 2015 has certainly all been about the weekend just gone, 24th July to 26th July 2015. For that reason alone, I will not apologise for the length of this blog.
As the time come closer over the last couple of months I was getting more twitched. This is a huge endeavour at the best of times, but for someone that isn't a proper ultra runner doubts crept in. Could I do this? Infant, would I try again? All I could do was train as best as I could, make a decent plan, and stick to it. I know I'm pretty damned stubborn so I knew that would help a lot.
I haven't run over the last couple of weeks, not since a 31km training trip around Rivington a couple of weekends ago. The weekend after someone we knew was doing the Bolton IronMan so we watched that. I obsessively studied the maps, worked out times compared to my recce timings and what would deposit me at the finish, and swore not to let the Iron Man make me go faster than I was comfortable. I also supplied my wife with a graffitied version of the UTLD map so she would be able to follow us alongside the text updates.
So Friday 24th came. I was off work, and after my wife had gone to work I tried to lie down for more sleep. I didn't sleep well on Thursday night, dreams of remembered sections ran through my head and I was awake quite often. I was entirely unsuccessful in having a sleep on Friday morning, so in the end I got up and re-re-re-packed the bag to make sure all was in order. I drove us up to Coniston; "Any preference for music?" I asked. "Anything" replied the Iron Man. I put Coldplay on again, it's the least offensive stuff on my iPod and he seems to like it. I have put it on most of the times we've been out running. The drive up was OK, apart from some slow patches on the M6. We were in Coniston and parked up in good time. We registered, went through kit check, got our SiEntries dibber and got weighed. 91.2kg, what????? Tim Brook, someone else we know, was one of the marshals. He did the 50 last year in a good time (14:32:52) and was going to improve on this in this year's 50, but knackered his leg earlier in the year. Nice to see a friendly face.
We mooched about, and finally headed back to the car to get ready. I put Compeed on the usual hot spots, and got sorted. My pack was 3.6kg this time, trying to go lighter.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/th_IMG_1600.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/th_IMG_1600.jpg)
People being fed at Coniston:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1601.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1601.jpg)
The briefing was an amusing affair. Terry got things underway, albeit with some reverb issues on the microphone.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1603.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1603.jpg)
Marc was amusing as usual. "Look at a stranger next to you, introduce yourself, then decide which one of you will finish" reflected the usual 45-55% finish rate (apart from this year....). David Cowburn spoke to us over the fence whilst we were in the starting pen, another familiar face. Then, after Nessun Dorma we were off at 6pm.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1606.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1606.jpg)
Leg 1 - Coniston to Seathwaite
Leg: 11.3km 659m ascent
Total: 11.3km 659m ascent
Planned time: 2 hours
Leg time: 1:46:31
Planned total: 2:00
Total time: 1:46:31
0:13:29 ahead of schedule
After the run through Coniston came the slowly steepening road up to the Miner's Bridge. I was walking by this point, stick to the plan and don't burn out. The climb up to the T junction was OK, the drop to Walna Scar car park was fun. The long slog up Walna Scar Road seemed less bad than when I did the recce, although that was in awful conditions. The descent to Seathwaite was longer than I recall but was fine. A few biscuits and coke from the Ulverston crew, and away. One of my major plans was to spend as little time in checkpoints as possible.
Walna Scar ascent:
http://www.sportsunday.co.uk/ll100-10440#photohttp://www.sportsunday.co.uk/ll100-10442#photohttp://www.sportsunday.co.uk/ll100-10443#photo
Descent to Seathwaite:
http://www.sportsunday.co.uk/ll100-20299
http://www.sportsunday.co.uk/ll100-20300#photohttp://www.sportsunday.co.uk/ll100-20301#photo
Leg 2 - Seathwaite to BootLeg: 11.1km 385m ascentTotal: 22.4km 1044m ascentPlanned time: 2 hoursLeg time: 1:54:40Planned total: 4:00Total time: 3:41:110:28:49 ahead of schedule
I'm not a big fan of the first climb up past Wallowbarrow Crag (incidentally where I first went rock climbing a lot of years ago), nor the awkward section through the fells and then into the forestry section. This year this was far drier due to some sterling work having been done. Much easier, and felt a lot quicker - plus dry feet too. The section along the river into Boot still felt quite long. Again, a quick stop at the checkpoint for flapjack and a drink from the French fancy dress/ Petal team.
Disco dancing and prancing towards Boot:http://www.sportsunday.co.uk/ll100-10699
http://www.sportsunday.co.uk/ll100-10700#photo
Leg 3 - Boot to Wasdale HeadLeg: 8.6km 297m ascent
Total: 31.0km 1341m ascent
Planned time: 2 hours
Leg time: 1:42:55
Planned total: 6:00
Total time: 5:24:06
0:33:54 ahead of schedule
Going well. This section is actually one of the easiest on the route, and is a welcome chill out before the next leg over the tops. We headed up gently over the moors, past Burnmoor Tarn (I put the head torch on just before the Tarn), then the nice descent to Wasdale. This one felt a lot easier than on the recce, but was still pretty boggy. Wet feet now. I had some soup (the first of many) and sandwiches from the Stroller disco. Fantastic.
Leg 4 - Wasdale Head to ButtermereLeg: 11.0km 712m ascent
Total: 42.0km 2053m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 3:01:11
Planned total: 9:00
Total time: 8:25:17
0:34:43 ahead of schedule
This is in the top two big climbs - there's a lot of ascent, and it's all in one lump. Properly dark by now, the night was pretty cloudy so no decent stars, just a line of head torches painfully working their way up Black Sail Pass. I was very pleased to reach the metal gate that marks the top, and equally pleased to make it down the rocky and technical descent to the River Liza, the bridge, and then Black Sail YHA. The next drag up Scarth Gap Pass was a lot longer than the route book suggested (uphill for 230m? more like 1230m!!). At the summit, with another gate, there was a chap in a divvy bag with some cans and a pizza box egging us on. Surreal. The run down to Buttermere went fine, and it was time for more soup with bread, a tea and biscuits.
Leg 5 - Buttermere to BraithwaiteLeg: 10.5km 573m ascentTotal: 52.5km 2626m ascentPlanned time: 2:30 hoursLeg time: 2:49:21Planned total: 11:30Total time: 11:14:450:15:15 ahead of schedule
When Iron Man and I did this "quarter" of the course as a recce this was the first section and it felt OK. After a marathon it would feel more tough! The section by the river and out to open fell was fine, as was the next section contouring around Whiteless Breast and crossing streams. It took a long time to get to the small cairn that marks the start of the steep climb, and the climb itself felt tough. At one point we had to shout down to a guy that had missed the turn and was heading of towards Derwentwater. Annoyingly, he pretty quickly overtook us with thanks for our intervention. My legs were starting to dislike steep hills. Once we hit the top of Sail Pass, the nice descent to Braithwaite went well and I was soon enjoying pasta, tea and biscuits. Iron Man had the rice pudding and jam. Thanks to Tony and Giselle.
Leg 6 - Braithwaite to Blencathra Centre
Leg: 13.7km 478m ascent
Total: 66.2km 3104m ascent
Planned time: 2:30 hours
Leg time: 2:58:06
Planned total: 14:00
Total time: 14:12:51
0:12:51 behind schedule!
With stomachs full of food we ran/ walked this next bit. On our recce I didn't like the section by the A66, nor the next bit along the old railway. Today it felt OK for some reason and we were soon turning left onto Spooney Green Lane. We climbed up well, and pushed on around Lonscale Fell heading towards the self check. This was the first time I fell asleep running. This was to be the most unpredictable, most irritating and most bizarre part of the UTLD 100. I had that feeling you get on a late night long car journey (or trying to stay awake to read a book in bed). My brain seemed to shut down and my eyes closed, and there was nothing I could do about it. Then I would come to with a jump and remember where I was. This was highly irritating as it slowed me down a lot, but also dangerous as this section involves contouring around on a very narrow path above a big drop. Luckily we made it to Blencathra safely as it was getting light, and I willingly accepted two cups of sugary coffee from little Dave, along with cake.
Leg 7 - Blencathra Centre to Dockray
Leg: 12.3km 417m ascent
Total: 78.5km 3521m ascent
Planned time: 2:30 hours
Leg time: 2:24:37
Planned total: 16:30
Total time: 16:37:28
0:07:28 behind schedule!
I will hold my hand up now - I don't like this leg. At all. We dropped down from Blencathra Centre, me falling asleep here and there still, then along the railway (still snoozing) to get to the boggy ascent to the old coach road. This was wet, but not too wet. The coach road was less of a drag than I recalled, but still nasty. Not much more to say, other than being glad to get to the Dockray checkpoint and more soup and sandwiches. I had more coffee too from the Newburgh Nomads.
Leg 8 - Dockray to Dalemain
Leg: 16.3km 370m ascent
Total: 94.8km 3891m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 3:13:16
Planned total: 19:30
Total time: 19:50:44
0:20:44 behind schedule!
We ran down this road section, then stomped through the Aire Force section, taking in passing views of the lovely waterfall. After this the interminable climb around Gowbarrow Fell passed relatively easily. I was more awake now and going well. The trog across fields was easier as a path had been carved by our quicker colleagues. The last section on the road to Dacre was really dull, then the Iron Man "stretched his legs" by running the rest of the way to the checkpoint. I ran/ walked this bit, feeling some blisters but generally feeling good. At the checkpoint, I had meat stew and coffee (most of which I spilled) and some sweets. Whilst popping blood blisters under my lesser toes, I was very much pleased to see my wife arriving in the tent along with the boys. She told me later that we looked rough, but I didn't feel it. This was a big boost and set me up for the last 46 miles of our journey. Dalemain was the first huge mental boost for me, the second being Mardale Head (after my very least favourite leg of this event). Thanks to The Endurance Store team. I had a choice of putting my new pair of Inov8 shoes on (which were the same as the ones I'd worn so far, and therefore rubbed in the same spots) or swap to my Hokas. I opted for the latter, which was to be a very wise choice.
Leg 9 - Dalemain to Howtown
Leg: 11.5km 294m ascent
Total: 106.3km 4185m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 2:43:39
Planned total: 22:30
Total time: 22:34:23
0:04:23 behind schedule!
After a longer stop at Dalemain, it took a minute to loosen the legs up but we jogged through to Pooley Bridge. Here we were greeted not only by the fab wife, but by Rob Turnock and family. It makes a big difference to the psyche to see people you know, it really spurs you onwards. The climb up to the Cockpit felt OK, then we jogged along on the slow descent to Howtown. Cowboys greeted us here, and I ate flapjack and biscuits courtesy of the Chia Charge guys. Thanks. This is now my distance record to date.
Leg 10 - Howtown to Mardale Head
Leg: 15.2km 765m ascent
Total: 121.5km 4950m ascent
Planned time: 4 hours
Leg time: 3:51:57
Planned total: 26:30
Total time: 26:26:20
0:03:40 ahead of schedule
I hate this leg. Each time I've done it I've overheated, felt ill and been crap thereafter. This time I was determined to take it slowly. The cooler, but still warm weather certainly helped. I went step by step, slowly plodding up and up through the never ending steep grass and bog. Oh my, I hate this. Eventually we got to the top of the climb, then went over High Kop (which always lasts a lot longer than you expect) until the drop back down to Haweswater. Now this bit is totally different in character - rocky, awkward, boring, undulating - but still horrid. I was supremely glad to get to the Spartan's tent at CP10. More soup, coffee and sandwiches.
Leg 11 - Mardale Head to Kentmere
Leg: 10.4km 511m ascent
Total: 131.9km 5461m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 2:59:59
Planned total: 29:30
Total time: 29:26:19
0:03:41 ahead of schedule
Off we went. There was a 50 runner stopping at CP10, which was one thing we had in the back of our minds - overtaking 50 runners would be a huge booster. We overtook a girl doing the 50 on the brutal ascent of Gatesgarth Pass - apparently she had got to the top of Fusedale, then decided to turn back only to meet someone that pushed her on - she did Fusedale TWICE!!! Our ascent went fairly OK, the descent was again in the dark and was as long and tough underfoot as ever. On the climb over from Sadgill I started my falling asleep thing again, I was also seeing rocks covered in moss as really colourful graffiti covered walls, the like of which I imagine you get in New York. Weird. We made it to Kentmere in one piece, and I ate some of the Montane team's pasta and biscuits and more coffee (most of which I spilled on the table). Two blokes who were pretty battered asked to tag along with us, I guess night two in the dark on your own ain't fun.
Leg 12 - Kentmere to Ambleside
Leg: 11.8km 491m ascent
Total: 143.7km 5952m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 3:23:05
Planned total: 32:30
Total time: 32:49:24
0:19:24 behind schedule!
I think I spent a lot of this leg asleep. Garburn Pass came and went, as did Badger Rock, Little Font and the Garburn Pass Boulder (couldn't see them though). The long descent was Ok, but we go ta little confused as to where the sharp right was, but luckily we got it right. The next thing I really recall is getting internally angry that we didn't know where we were going through Skelghyll Woods. There was a disagreement of views as to which way to go, but I wasn't helping as my mind was off somewhere else. Finally Steve agreed with my ramblings and we headed off down over the bridge towards Ambleside. Once on tarmac, Iron Man suggested a run - we both knew we were behind time now. Ambleside is the last cut off, and we were going to make it but the plan was at risk. We ran along Old Lakes Road but within a couple of minutes my toes were agony. I couldn't run due to the pain. Despair entered my mind - behind time, messing around in the woods and now painful feet. No way could I finish in time - what was the point of going on, I may as well stop here. I grumpily announced to Iron Man that I would not run any more of this event. Into the checkpoint I ate some soup and sandwiches and had coffee, thanks to the Mountain Run team. I look dat my feet - the blisters I had treated at Dalemain had had the skin torn off by the run, so each toe was skinless and raw. I dressed them as best as I could and swallowed some ibuprofen. Sharon asked to tag along, the other said OK and I really wasn't bothered at this point.
Leg 13 - Ambleside to Chapel Stile
Leg: 9.0km 234m ascent
Total: 152.7km 6186m ascent
Planned time: 2:30 hours
Leg time: 2:12:53
Planned total: 35:00
Total time: 35:02:17
0:02:17 behind schedule!
This was a very odd leg for me. The climb over to Tarn Foot I lead the navigation for and knew what I was doing. We passed more 50 runners. At one point four fat badgers burst out of the undergrowth, startled by our passing. Once at Chesters, I was falling asleep again. On the flat run by Elterwater I woke to find myself standing alone on the path in the mist. I had no idea where I was, the dream I had awoken from felt more real than this. I looked up and down the path and gradually came to. What the hell is going on? I set off in what I thought was the right direction and caught the rest of the group at the Elterwater car park. A quick dash along to the often hard to spot bridge, past the Wainwright's Inn and along the track and we were at the Chapel Stile check point. I refused to sit down as I doubted I'd get up, but ate stew, bread, biscuits and coffee. Still being grumpy, I wanted to get going and it felt like ages before we were on our way. Thanks to the Howards for the welcome.
Leg 14 - Chapel Stile to Tilberthwaite
Leg: 10.6km 387m ascent
Total: 163.3km 6573m ascent
Planned time: 2:45 hours
Leg time: 2:46:22
Planned total: 37:45
Total time: 37:48:52
0:03:52 behind schedule!
It was dawn when we left the CP, although very misty. Steve led the way along Langdale, a lot simpler in the light. We went well around, then up to the Wrynose self dib. Iron Man said to me in Langdale that we needed to stay under 14 minutes per km to make it in time, so I pushed hard from Blea Tarn despite my feet screaming to the contrary. Jumping across large rocks was actually OK as it only loaded one point of my feet, and we blasted round to the road pretty quickly, although Sharon wasn't happy with the pace I was setting. I was a lot slower going down the road - I had known I would be and needed to buy time. The ascent around to High Tilberthwaite Farm went on for a long time. I was so pleased when we hit the road. At CP14 I ate a biscuit and left, knowing I would potentially struggle on this nasty last leg. I'm sure the Lakes Lodges spread was great, but I wasn't for stopping.
Leg 15 - Tilberthwaite to Coniston
Leg: 5.7km 283m ascent
Total: 169.0km 6856m ascent
Planned time: 1:45 hours
Leg time: 1:42:13
Planned total: 39:30
Total time: 39:30:52
52 seconds off plan. Wow.
This was it. I couldn't fail now. I'd gone from abject misery at Ambleside, to real dogged determination from Chapel Stile onwards. Off I went up the steps to heaven. Felt OK. Then the rocky section. Felt OK. Then the traverse above a void you don't see on the night run. Felt OK. Iron Man and Sharon overtook me but never got far ahead until the summit of the pass. I kept going upwards until the top. I knew the descent would be hard, and I was a lot slower than usual. Iron Man finished nearly 20 minutes before me, having been together at the start of the descent. I felt a bit emotional here as I knew I was going to finish and it had been quite a journey. It was a painful stumble downtime hill, then on the rough track past the Miner's Bridge, then onto smooth tarmac. I couldn't run so kept on going. The clapping from the pubs helped, then seeing Ben and my wife, then Alex and the Iron Man near the end was a huge thing for me. I crossed the line, dibbed, and got taken inside. "100 finisher" shouted the marshal and I was greeted to a huge round of applause, looking slightly sheepish - I'm not an ultra runner, this isn't for me! Tim was still there and it was nice to get my medal from him. I had another coffee, then we got packed and my wife drove us home. I slept for a while on the way back.
Both a little bloated and tired at the finish:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1612.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1612.jpg)
Once at home, I had a brew and a glass of wine, then a hot bath which I fell asleep in and woke up ages later feeling very cold and blue. I got in bed, and my wife tells me I was rambling nonsense about paying for my entry to the 100, Next year maybe? I got up later and we had the perfect post race tea of ribs, coleslaw and chips. I was in bed early and slept well. Although I was wide awake and up and about at 6:30 on the Monday morning. I have de-roofed the blisters on my left foot, and left those on the right - think of it as an experiment to see which does better! Having weighed myself, I found I'd lost 5kg during this event.
The evening of the finish:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1611.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1611.jpg)
Back at work today. Pssst, wanna see my medal??
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1613.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1613.jpg)
Epilogue
So there we are. The best part of 12 months obsessing about it, and it's done. I've done a hundred mile event. If ever I was going to do one, this was it. It's not properly sunk in yet but I'm really chuffed - it's made all my efforts, Iron Man's efforts and the patience and support from the family worthwhile This is as much for my wife and the boys as anyone else.
So what have I learned? Other than the usual stuff about trying things even if you may fail etc, the main thing is that sleep deprivation gets harder as you get older! That was some of the freakiest stuff ever. It has also cemented the knowledge that I couldn't have done it without the close family I have now, they really are the best anyone could wish for.
Interestingly, in the car the day after I finished Coldplay came on. My wife told me that the Iron Man is sick of me playing Coldplay every time we go anywhere. I laughed so much I thought I may die.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1605.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1605.jpg)
The plan and the results:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/UTLD%20plan.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/UTLD%20plan.jpg)
Strava results (the GPS data is wrong - a bit over distance and a lot under for ascent):
The may with comments for the family to follow:(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1614.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1614.jpg)
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1615.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/IMG_1615.jpg)
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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A bloody marvelous achievement! Yeah. Awesome!
Enjoy the feeling of anything is possible - it lasts and lasts. I remember writing in my blog after "The best of times, the worst of times" and I guess that's how I still feel about my only ultra.
You've been a total beast - a 100 miler FFS is just unimaginable to me, especially in that sort of terrain.
Duly and deservedly wadded.
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Thanks. I'm very very pleased.
I'm thinking about giving something back and seeing if I can help out next time. Too early to decide on what's next!
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Do it - the only time I've ran in the Parkruns, is when training for the ultra in 2012 and I think I ended up volunteering more times than I participated. There were a couple of times when a smile from a Marshal made all the difference to my psyche and I'd expect it to be a very rewarding experience on an event so big.
Fullest respect.
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Fantastic read Gareth and superb achievement!
Waddage... :bow:
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Too early to decide on what's next!
Too late to sign up for Mont Blanc one? A mate of mine is doing it next month!
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You need 9 points for UTMB, which really means doing 3 qualifying 100 milers in the 12 months before. UTLD isn't a qualifier. I'd love to do it, but I really do not have the time to invest!!
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The next drag up Scarth Gap Pass was a lot longer than the route book suggested (uphill for 230m? more like 1230m!!). At the summit, with another gate, there was a chap in a bivvy bag with some cans and a pizza box egging us on. Surreal.
Just found out this was Charlie Sharpe!
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You need 9 points for UTMB, which really means doing 3 qualifying 100 milers in the 12 months before. UTLD isn't a qualifier. I'd love to do it, but I really do not have the time to invest!!
I know he did Kintyre, but had a DNF in the Great Glen, so hopefully he still has enough points?
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Even without listening to Clodplay that sounds like an ordeal. Good effort! :bow:
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Looking at John Kynaston's data (https://johnkynastonblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/lakeland100-all-results-08-15.xls) only 682 people have ever finished (and 670 in under the 40 hour limit) in the 8 years it's been going. :dance1:
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Thanks. I'm very very pleased.
I'm thinking about giving something back and seeing if I can help out next time. Too early to decide on what's next!
One week until entry for next year opens, and I'm horribly tempted. Oh no! :o
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Delamere NightRunner (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2015/11/delamere-nightrunner.html)
8 November 2015, 1:12 pm
I've not been running much recently - I have consciously taken some time out and got in the Board Room a couple of times a week. I'm going to start running again in February/ March to build back up to the UTLD 100 in July.
For this reason, and because the guys and girls at Epic Events (http://www.epicevents.co.uk/) have looked after me on various events, I thought I'd finally give something back. Three o'clock yesterday afternoon saw the Iron Man and I arrive at Delamere to lend a hand. He ended up at the registration area, and helped out with car parking before he ran in the event, finishing in a respectable 53:15. Chris took a bunch of us to the start to set up the gantry, barriers, lights, balloons, banners, flags etc. An efficient team had this done quite quickly.
After a brief packed lunch, us course marshals ran out onto the course. I was stationed near the top of the high point, Old Pale Hill (http://www.cheshirenow.co.uk/old_pale.html). This provided a great view of both the stars and the surrounding fireworks. I was up there a good hour before the first runners arrived, so I pointed everyone in the right direction and gave some encouragement.
Once the Grim Sweeper arrived we headed off round the last couple of miles of the course collecting the signs, then packed everything back away again. I had a great time, and it's nice to see the event from the organiser's side. I'd be keen to help out again in future.
So for those who took part, the crazed blood soaked doctor with the axe near the hill top was me. Only a few of the slowest failed to survive.............
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Interestingly, Gareth Swain was helping out too. We saw him ascending Walnar Scar road during the UTLD100 with a pack full of sweets. Gareth timed out at Mardale Head, and his friend stopped at Ambleside. Gareth is in for 2016, so I'll see you there. Fewer sweets, more pork pies. That's the secret.....
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2015 round up (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2015/12/2015-round-up.html)
31 December 2015, 11:56 am
It has been a funny year in some ways.
Sport wise the first half of the year was all about running, with a small amount of time on rock mixed in. The few times I got out were mostly good days, apart from popping a hamstring at Roundbarn. WiltonFest was an entertaining day out in September, and a chance to catch up with Ginnster and Probes and finally meet Mike Adams.
January
I had never been around the Guild Wheel, which felt a little remiss of me. I ran it clockwise on a very wet and windy day, got cold in the last few miles and then had a week feeling rough. Never mind, I'll probably have another jog around it in decent weather since it's mostly a nice route through some interesting scenery.
February
As part of my UTLD preparation I had aimed to run a marathon distance each month. February was the Grizedale Trail 26, which I had done in 2014 with the Iron Man. He was busy for the 2015 event so I went myself. I was slower than last time but I wasn't too worried about that.
March
Solar Eclipse month! The day itself I had a trip up to Higher Chelburn with the new Lancashire Bouldering guidebook. I did quite a lot of the easier stuff and had a really good day.
I also had visit to Stronstrey, for old times sake, although everything felt very hard and it was a very hot day. Been a while since my last visit here.
As I mentioned above, I also went to Roundbarn for the first time and did a few things. Damp streaks and pulling a hamstring weren't highlights. I had a couple of months of painful physio after this visit, desperate to get sorted for July's big event.
May
First real test for the hamstring - Howgills Trail 26 with the Iron Man. This is a great event, with most of the climbing in one big lump within the first five miles. Again, slower than last time but all miles in the legs.
I had also entered the LDWA Red Rose 100 miler this month. I was going well up to 68km (Downham), but psychology wasn't right and I called it a day. Disappointing, but again it was good to get more distance in.
June
Since I'd missed the Buttermere to Dalemain recce due to my hamstring issues, the Iron Man and I decided to recce this ourselves. We rented a cottage in Thornthwaite as a family, and the Iron Man popped up for a day. We had a good 53km recce, making an excellent time, and a good weekend in general. Great weather, and a lot different from what was in store for the Lake District in November/ December.
The other event in June was the Three Rings of Shap. Iron Man and I set off on this one, but he had some knee issues so we did the first two rings (68km) then stopped - no point in getting injured the month before the Lakeland 100.
July
This was the one. The UTLD Lakeland 100 completed. Amazing. This was a huge undertaking that neither the Iron Man nor I were vaguely sure we could achieve. Goes to show what's possible. And then in a euphoric state I entered again for 2016. Iron Man was more sensible. I think I'll have a look at poles for next time.
August
Two week in France on the Vendee was a great family holiday, although the hire car was shocking. Lots of sea food on the barbecue and really nice to get away and chill. We flew each way this time, which was probably quite fortuitous considering potential issues at Calais due to the migrant situation.
November
I'd not been doing very much running at all after the Lakeland 100, but I opted to marshal the Delamere night runner event which was really good fun, and nice to give something back. I'll be helping out at the Rivington night runner in January, so may see some of you there.
Cooked a goose as well, which was excellent and therefore provided fat for the roasties at Christmas - this may become a new tradition.
December
Another great family Christmas, albeit fewer numbers this year. Food was fantastic, the presents were great and we all had a brilliant day. And all the leftovers have now gone, and we got a great selection of meals out of them.
Less good things from 2015
Quite a lot has happened this year. The Charlie Hebdo shootings in Paris was a shocking start to 2015. November brought more Paris attacks, another reminder of terrorism close to home in a city I have visited a number of times.
Over the past two months the weather has been the other big issue. Floods in the Lake District were shocking to see. The family were on the annual CentreParcs trip (Penrith) where the weather was terrible and we sat watching breaking news of widespread flooding. This must have been a terrible time for the locals, and some familiar features suffered. The collapse of the Pooley Bridge bridge was particularly poignant as we ran over it doing the Lakeland 100 only four months before.
On a personal note, it has now been over a year since we have had contact with my daughters. After four years of difficult times with me ex, matters came to a head at the end of 2014 when her ongoing attempts to threaten or blackmail us meant it was no longer safe to see the kids. An incredibly hard decision to make, but there wasn't really an alternative at that point. We have had no communication from them since, which is no doubt what was planned. Interestingly, as soon as contact was stopped I got a letter from child maintenance service wanting more money due to reduced contact - very interesting timing. Since then I have learned that CMS are entirely on the side of the claiming parent, who seems to be able to do anything whilst the paying parent has to do everything within a week or CMS come after them. I can now see why people dress up as Batman, as there is no other choice. It's just a shame some people have no self respect and behave despicably whilst still wanting more money.
The last couple of weeks showed us more rain, and more flooding this time in places like Yorkshire and our nearby village of Croston. Croston has flooded before and this time was worse than ever. We've lent our dehumidifier to the Sports Hall for people to use, but the place has taken a battering.
Anyway, enough of negativity, let's end the year positively. I'm up to 53 out of 100 books read for the BBC list, slowly getting there. A Prayer for Owen Meany was a highlight, excellent book. On my way through David Copperfield at the moment. Some interesting looking books to go.
So, our smaller family unit is doing very well and we are all happy and looking forward to another year. We are very lucky with what we have.
So, 2016 aims? Obviously the Lakeland 100 is the main sporty thing this year, but I want to get back out on rock after a bit of a washout year. Other than that, maybe drop a bit of weight and do more core strengthening. Apart from that, more family time, a good holiday and generally more of the same good time.
All the best to everyone for 2016. Happy New Year, and maybe see you out and about.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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April update. Fast walking with a small amount of rock sprinkles (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2016/04/april-update-fast-walking-with-small.html)
5 April 2016, 11:49 am
I've not blogged for a while, mostly because I've not done anything worth mention, so it's all saved up into this one post. Again, a lot of what I've been up to is based around the Lakeland 100 training (or lack thereof) so here's a bit of a round up.
After how much I enjoyed marshalling at Delamere NightRunner, I also marshalled at the Rivington NightRunner 16/1/16 and at Parbold Duathlon 13/3/16. The former was on a very cold and snowy night, and getting my car all the way along George's Lane to Belmont Road was hard going. It was even worse coming back down and I had to get a tow from a passing 4x4 enthusiast. Great experience though, and I bet it was a great one to run with all the snow. Parbold was a good one to do too, a tough duathlon and nice to be able to hand medals to the SHARKS who took part.
20th March saw a visit from the BeardyBeast. After pastries and coffee at Chez Lank, we opted to look at Knowle Heights (yeah, not sure why after all) and dropped R-man and Pasty Lord a text. R-man agreed to meet us there, but Rick was apparently doing some DIY (crap excuse methinks). Anyway, I was crap and did very little. Beardy Beast got the FA of a 7a wall, which R-man repeated, and R-man got the FA of a new 7a+. Classic esoterica of the highest degree, but a fun day out and good to catch up.
R-man repeating "The erotic fiction of Robyn Moolah" 7a
R-man, FA of "Darkthrone" 7a+
Nik on "Hash Lee" 7a+
Other than a few other plays in the Board Room, climbing has taken second fiddle to running. 14/3/16 I ran the Rivington Trail 26 route as part of training, finding it hard and being slower than the last two times I've done it.
This, and previous experience, prompted me to buy some poles as an experiment. The first test of those was a 19km stomp with the Iron Man. Hills certainly felt better, and he thought I was quicker (well, that's a relative term).
The next pole test was the Lakeland 100 recce two days ago. I didn't do the Coniston to Buttermere recce this year as I had taken some time off running, so this was the first I've done this time. This was the 33 mile section between Buttermere and Dalemain, containing some of my least favourite sections including parts I slept through during the 2015 event.
Mentally, I split the Lakeland 100 into four sections.
- Coniston to Buttermere 42.0km 2053m ascent
- Buttermere to Dalemain 52.8km 1838m ascent
- Dalemain to Ambleside 48.9km 2061m ascent
- Ambleside to Coniston 25.3km 904m ascent
Clearly, getting to Dalemain means you've completed more than half the distance (94.8km out of 169km) and the ascent (3891m out of 6856m) which is a big psychological boost. My aim has always been to hit Dalemain before the 20 hour mark.
The recce at the weekend can be broken down into four legs, as per the road book:
- Buttermere to Braithwaite 10.5km 573m ascent
- Braithwaite to Blencathra 13.7km 478m ascent
- Blencathra to Dockray 12.3km 417m ascent
- Dockray to Dalemain 16.3km 370m ascent
I used the poles for most of the time, except I put them on the bad between Sail pass and the Spooney Green Lane ascent. Up and over Sail Pass felt fine, the bit along the A66 was as boring as ever. I got to Blencathra in under two hours, feeling good. After this I started to suffer from the heat, a perennial problem for me and not helped as there was no water at Braithwaite and I only drank 750ml and ate nothing before Blencathra.
The altered section of the route and the climb to the Old Coach Road got me feeling worse and worse. I was knackered, hot, sweat pouring and demoralised. I was very glad to get to Dockray where I ate a couple of my sandwiches and had a lot of water. Looking back at the Strava times I still did well, so maybe the poles do help!
Jogging down the road to Dockray village whilst eating was OK, and I started to feel a bit better (well, less bad) through Aira Force. The trek around Gowbarrow felt reasonable too. I got to Dalemain after 8hrs37mins - when Iron Man and I did the informal recce last year we got to Dacre in 8:34, without the last 2km to Dalemain, so despite feeling like crap my times were OK.
I'm aiming to get a marathon plus distance done each month from now, and practice with the poles. My shoulders are aching after Sunday, so the muscles have clearly been used. Let's see how things go...
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Seven weeks to go (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2016/06/seven-weeks-to-go.html)
8 June 2016, 4:14 pm
The last few months seem to have flown by, and we are nearly halfway through 2016. That's a bit scary.
Other than a few snatched board sessions, I've not climbed much at all. I've tried to get out running a bit, and done a couple of enjoyable events.
7/5/16 I did the Malhamdale Trail Challenge, which was a nice low key event. 22 miles and some nice hills, on a really hot day. No medal for this, just pie and peas at the end. I went a bit slower with the heat, but came in under 5 hours which I was happy with. I complained about how hot it was, but was soon to realise it wasn't too bad!
15/5/16 The Iron Man and I did the Howgills Trail event, me doing the 26 and him the 13. It was even hotter than last weekend, so my time was slower than last year. Disappointing, but it's all miles in the legs so no real problem.
A few weeks back, LAA and I had a wander up near Wycoller. We went over Lad Law, and I noted the Abbott Stone up top which has a hard looking wall- crap edge right hand, thin mono dish left and a pop to a side pull sloper thing. There were quite a few other blocks up there but nothing of consequence. In the valley heading back to the village is a hippo block which may yield a decent sloping roof problem, and further on another outcrop opposite Fosters Leap, which looks like it has some easy stuff on it. I may go back if I ever get on rock regularly.
29/5/16 The Iron Man and I did the Pooley Bridge to Ambleside recce. This was the hottest day of the three, really nasty and no wind. I went through 5 litres of fluid and still it wasn't enough. 33km in and the Iron Man had to call it a day at Kentmere, partly due to heat and partly knees. I plodded on to Ambleside, but the 29 miles took a lot longer than last time. Considering the timings on the 100 are tighter this year, I'll need to think about where to push it.
Last weekend we had a run in the Lakes, ticking 5 Wainwrights - Steel Fell, Beda Fell, Angletarn Pikes, Brock Crags and Place Fell. Good day out with some good hills. The weekend after next we are doing the Nav4 Pennine 39, which will be my 23rd marathon/ ultra distance. Considering I said in 2012 I'd do one marathon, that seems ridiculous.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Four weeks and counting (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2016/07/four-weeks-and-counting.html)
1 July 2016, 12:44 pm
Well, a lot has happened since the last blog. Brexit, the collapse of labour's cabinet, our PM's resignation and the subsequent battle for his job. All very worrying. From the Lanky point of view, I've tried to get some miles in as well as some ascent. Iron Man and I have had some trips up Pendle Hill and the Lakes, basically trying to find the hilliest bits we can. We also did the Pennine 39 which was an excellent low key event, taking in some great scenery in an area I have been remiss in not visiting. No more events planned until the big day. I'm going to try to get out for another longish run with hills, but then ease off again to avoid any risk of injury. For the same reason I've not been on the Board at all. I did, however, invest in a pair of Montane Minimus trousers and a jacket. These pack to less than half the size of my old waterproofs, and weight a lot less too. That leaves more room in the pack for pork pies.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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UTLD 100 2016 - a sorry state (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2016/08/utld-100-2016-sorry-state.html)
4 August 2016, 12:11 pm
The pre-amble
After a successful completion last year I was keen for another go at this iconic race, hoping to better my time and learn from last year’s experience. The family had booked a little cottage in Coniston, just up the road from the bridge, to use as a base. My wife and the kids planned to help out at HQ on an ad hoc basis, and the Iron Man was up to drive the Broom Wagon picking up the broken – he had to be at Coniston for 8am to help out and collect his minibus. The piles of kit and food were apparently very impressive.
IronMan ready to drive his minibus:(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CDu5mHffAvI/V6Mh8ZbgAII/AAAAAAAAAFk/7N9WTZjmUkMDmdQXVTRGWEZs8efikoAJwCLcB/s320/IMG_2016.JPG) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CDu5mHffAvI/V6Mh8ZbgAII/AAAAAAAAAFk/7N9WTZjmUkMDmdQXVTRGWEZs8efikoAJwCLcB/s1600/IMG_2016.JPG)
We arrived in the early afternoon and I got myself registered, weighed (4kg less than last year- really??) and dibber attached. After last year’s completion I felt more relaxed about 2016, and therefore slept a bit better on the Thursday night (falling asleep was a big bugbear last time). I’d also packed some caffeine pills just in case. I had tightened up my timings in my plan, mainly to beat the new and tighter cut off times up to Blencathra, but also to aim for a time an hour quicker than last year if I could keep ahead of plan.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dcy74MXGtmY/V6MiVohMF6I/AAAAAAAAAFw/_cAHEYbgW1IxSX0js2Mtp7QIBH4Wria1gCEw/s320/IMG_2019.JPG) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dcy74MXGtmY/V6MiVohMF6I/AAAAAAAAAFw/_cAHEYbgW1IxSX0js2Mtp7QIBH4Wria1gCEw/s1600/IMG_2019.JPG)
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BQUoubXpehg/V6MiVa5wAEI/AAAAAAAAAFs/45MEFEj67jAKJ7zm-NasPzOSwq_-B-l7QCEw/s320/IMG_2021.JPG) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BQUoubXpehg/V6MiVa5wAEI/AAAAAAAAAFs/45MEFEj67jAKJ7zm-NasPzOSwq_-B-l7QCEw/s1600/IMG_2021.JPG)
Marc at the briefing, having a basketball moment:
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kAEE0eFxdUw/V6MiVA1t0jI/AAAAAAAAAFo/3T6wFu2dKngIKg_lHbBOlqvWt2rh-sMDQCEw/s320/IMG_2022.JPG) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kAEE0eFxdUw/V6MiVA1t0jI/AAAAAAAAAFo/3T6wFu2dKngIKg_lHbBOlqvWt2rh-sMDQCEw/s1600/IMG_2022.JPG)
Terry receiving his medal and being complimented on his cup:
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pLD4DImfU2Q/V6MiV_IQ_zI/AAAAAAAAAF4/a8MEJYKMq6AYAj86WTqnnKnoxxDwROz-QCEw/s320/IMG_2023.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pLD4DImfU2Q/V6MiV_IQ_zI/AAAAAAAAAF4/a8MEJYKMq6AYAj86WTqnnKnoxxDwROz-QCEw/s1600/IMG_2023.JPG)
We had some lunch in one of the local pubs, I had baked potato and tuna mayo. We then got booked into the cottage and then went to the briefing. After this it was a case of getting into the pen and awaiting the end of Nessun Dorma, then getting going.
The event
Leg 1 - Coniston to Seathwaite
Leg: 11.3km 659m ascent
Total: 11.3km 659m ascentPlanned time: 1:50
Leg time: 1:47:41
Planned total: 1:50
Total time: 1:47:41
0:23:19 ahead of schedule
I ran as far as the steepening in the track to the miners bridge. I carried the poles until Walnar Scar Road, as the initial climb is quite tight and I didn’t want to whack anyone with them. All went Ok on this leg and got to Seathwaite feeling good. David Cowburn passed me a couple of minutes before the CP, although he’s a lot quicker than me so I was surprised he wasn’t miles in front. Quick dib, drink and biscuits and off. This year I took a small plastic bag to put a few biccies in to nibble between checkpoints, which worked well.
Leg 2 - Seathwaite to BootLeg: 11.1km 385m ascentTotal: 22.4km 1044m ascentPlanned time: 1:55Leg time: 2:06:42Planned total: 3:45Total time: 3:54:230:09:23 behind scheduleThe climb past Wallowbarrow went better than last year, and it felt cooler. Grassguards was sopping wet though, and with water to mid shin in places wet feet were inevitable. This is where it went wrong for me this year. I’d worn my Inov8 GTX shoes, which were great last year for dry feet. This year, once filled with water, they stayed filled. It was tough going through the bogs to arrive at Boot, so a bit slower than planned. Another quick stop and away.Leg 3 - Boot to Wasdale HeadLeg: 8.6km 297m ascent
Total: 31.0km 1341m ascent
Planned time: 1:45
Leg time: 1:46:59
Planned total: 5:30
Total time: 5:41:22
0:11:22 behind schedule
Since there was minimal moonlight, the torch was on shortly after the CP. The new compulsory mug was actually quite handy as I repeatedly took the brew with me on the first bit of each leg, which I think saved time. Unsurprisingly this leg was very wet too, and the standing water around Burnmoor Tarn just added to the foot problems. I was glad to arrive in Wasdale, as this feels like the start of the event in some ways. The usual Stroller disco was in full force so I had some soup and sandwich, and took some coffee with me to head up Black Sail.
Leg 4 - Wasdale Head to ButtermereLeg: 11.0km 712m ascent
Total: 42.0km 2053m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 2:58:26
Planned total: 8:30
Total time: 8:39:48
0:09:48 behind scheduleNow the work begins. This ascent felt OK this time, maybe the poles helped more than you may think. Up and up to the gate, then down the tricksy path to the YHA. The Scarth Gap climb started OK, but then I felt really sick and was heaving as I went along. I hadn’t eaten since the CP, so I suspected it was a case of needing more on board. I had a mouthful of water, which very nearly came back. Using my mother’s old technique of deep breaths, I managed to keep the nausea under control whilst I nibbled on some biscuits. By the time I got to Buttermere I felt OK. I walked the lakeside path with a guy (Andy Cole, I think looking at times and John Kynaston’s photos. He finishes in 37:29!) whose plan was to walk most of the course. This is what I ended up doing from here on in. Soup and a brew at Buttermere and off again.
Leg 5 - Buttermere to BraithwaiteLeg: 10.5km 573m ascentTotal: 52.5km 2626m ascentPlanned time: 2:30 hoursLeg time: 2:28:15Planned total: 11:00Total time: 11:08:030:08:03 behind schedule
This feels like the biggest single climb on the course, and it felt the same this time around. There had been some land slides from the floods earlier in the year, but in general the ascent went well. Andy caught me at the Sail Pass summit after having spent longer in the checkpoint, so we stomped down to the checkpoint together. We went slightly differently at the final drop, but it all ends up in the same place. Rice pudding for me, and Andy ate two bowls. I was out and plodding pretty quickly – this was problem number two.Last year I changed socks at Braithwaite. This year, the tightened cut off time at Blencathra was preying on my mind for some reason. Despite being well ahead of cut offs, I didn’t feel that I could take the time for foot care at this point. My entire focus was getting past Blencathra – I was to pay for this mistake later.Leg 6 - Braithwaite to Blencathra Centre
Leg: 13.7km 478m ascent
Total: 66.2km 3104m ascent
Planned time: 3:00 hours
Leg time: 2:40:36
Planned total: 14:00
Total time: 13:48:39
00:11:21 ahead of schedule
I was 26 minutes ahead of last year at the end of this leg, mainly as I wasn’t asleep for any of it this time. The dull bit along the A66 was dull, but seemed to pass quite quickly. Spoony Lane ascent went fine, and the whole thing was pretty good really. Apart from some pain under my left foot, but more of that later.The obligatory big up for Little Dave’s Mum’s chocolate cake – I signed the card that was there for her as a thank you – and off I went again.Leg 7 - Blencathra Centre to Dockray
Leg: 12.3km 417m ascent
Total: 78.5km 3521m ascent
Planned time: 2:30 hours
Leg time: 2:32:17
Planned total: 16:30
Total time: 16:20:56
00:09:04 ahead of schedule
I still don’t really like this leg, even with the amended course and new dib under the A66. It’s just that coach road. It’s very uneven, and this was where the feet started to really suffer. Why I still didn’t change into my dry socks I really don’t know. The ascent to the coach road was very wet this year, and once on the track itself I just got my head down and put one foot in front of the other. Half way along I became pretty bloated and my guts were most unhappy. I was glad to get to the checkpoint, as were my feet, and went straight to the portaloo for some relief. Phew. After that I was OK for some soup and sandwiches.Leg 8 - Dockray to Dalemain
Leg: 16.3km 370m ascent
Total: 94.8km 3891m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 3:24:59
Planned total: 19:30
Total time: 19:45:55
0:15:55 behind schedule!
Last year IronMan and I ran the downhill road section – this year I couldn’t due to the pain in my feet. I was starting to find that going downhill was a struggle, but the ups were fine. It hurt a lot going past Aira Force, but the Gowbarrow contour was OK. I got quite frustrated with the group in front of me who I felt were going too slowly for my plan and ended up going past them before the road crossing and field section. They all caught me up on the rocky road on the Dalemain estate, where I slowed right down again due to the pain. At Dalemain I sat on my towel with bare feet for half an hour – trench foot had set in and I hoped allowing them to dry would sort me out. The right foot seemed to do OK, but the left remained very macerated and painful. A few blisters going around, but nothing major. Knowing how boggy it had been, I opted to put my second pair of Inov8 GTXs on rather than my Hokas that I used last year. I think this was the final mistake that broke the camel’s back.Leg 9 - Dalemain to Howtown
Leg: 11.5km 294m ascent
Total: 106.3km 4185m ascent
Planned time: 2:30
Leg time: 2:42:16
Planned total: 22:00
Total time: 22:28:11
0:28:11 behind schedule!
I set off with brew in hand and went slowly initially (and slower later!). The right sole felt a lot better after being dried and having new shoes and socks. The left one had improved but was still very painful. Passing through Pooley Bridge and up to the Cockpit went OK, and the long down section I ended up walking all of. Interesting my leg time was still much the same as last year’s when we ran this section. Down to Howtown for some sweets and biscuits – the team here seemed keen to get rid of their stocks and I ended up with a big bag full of sweets which I ended up finishing off two days later.Leg 10 - Howtown to Mardale Head
Leg: 15.2km 765m ascent
Total: 121.5km 4950m ascent
Planned time: 4 hours
Leg time: 4:03:09
Planned total: 26:00
Total time: 26:31:20
31:20 behind schedule
Still a leg I don’t like. Perversely, it had been lovely and cool and cloudy up to setting off and then the sun came out (damn you Fusedale!). The plod up Fusedale was done in warmer temperatures, but I managed (going uphill still OK). Heading over High Kop was really boggy again and we passed a guy in distress (turned out to be Gareth Swain who had entered last year and stopped at Mardale Head – I’d spoken to him when we were marshalling the Delamere nightrunner). His mate was dropping down to Haweswater to raise the alarm.The descent wasn’t nice this time, but once on the side of Haweswater my feet slowed me down more. I was left behind by the others in the group I had climbed Fusedale with, and I started getting more stomach cramps and bloating. On and on the path goes – I think it’s only about 6km but it feels a lot longer. I was on my own now but kept on moving, although the rocky path was agony. A couple of km from the checkpoint my stomach cramps got a lot worse and I was forced to nip behind a bush. Feeling better, I then managed to make it to Mardale Head with little issue. This is usually the point where mentally I know I’ve got it nailed, but this time was very different. I was really happy to get here but also well aware of the last 30 miles I still had to cover, although the remaining thirteen and a half hours should be enough…
Leg 11 - Mardale Head to Kentmere
Leg: 10.4km 511m ascent
Total: 131.9km 5461m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 3:29:56
Planned total: 29:00
Total time: 30:01:16
1:01:16 behind schedule
The wheels felt like they were starting to come off, and looking at timings (see later) they certainly were. Gatescarth Pass climb was alright (climbs still went well) but the nasty drop down the other side certainly did not. Everything I stood on caused pain, and I was going ever more slowly. I was being overtaken left right and centre now and people were asking if I was OK. Not a good state of affairs. I hobbled onwards and was so pleased to hit the tarmac just before the bridge in Sadgill. The next up section went OK (No hallucinations this year), and then the long drop to the road felt rotten and seemed to last forever. My brain was going round thinking about timings and what I had left to do, and I was coming to the conclusion that I couldn’t cope with another ten hours of this pain. I was going to stop at Kentmere and have done – I didn’t feel this was giving up as I simply couldn’t do much more than hobble forward now.Leg 12 - Kentmere to Ambleside
Leg: 11.8km 491m ascent
Total: 143.7km 5952m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 3:29:56
Planned total: 32:00
Total time: 33:58:21
1:58:21 behind schedule
Whilst the last leg had only taken a few minutes longer than last year, it felt infinitely longer and had been pretty grim and I was now suffering a lot. I managed to drag myself up the steps into the checkpoint, and there was the IronMan to greet me. For some reason I hadn’t expected to see him at all during the event, so it was a nice surprise for him to be there. I’m sure I didn’t look great at this point, and I recall moaning about my feet. However, since he was there I couldn’t drop out now even though the cut off for Ambleside was under four hours away. Eventually I ate some pasta, and stubbornly walked out the door as the IronMan drove his bus with a couple of runner in it in the other direction. I knew I was to be in for some fun. I got pretty cold at this point and ended up putting on both my thermal layer and my Minimus jacket.Once more, the uphill was not too bad and I rapidly overtook a lady called Lizzie (who would pretty soon leave me behind on the other side). I felt good on the uphill, as long as I was extremely careful where I put my feet. Once at the top, I again found that I was struggling. The rough track and the descent were a real trial, and Lizzie passed me easily (to finish in 39:56). It seemed a long way down to Troutbeck, but the climb around Robin Lane was not too bad (uphill again) until the drop down to the left. Slow again here, and then came the woods. What can I say? This was horrible, the tree roots and rocks were misery on every step and I wished it was over. Once on the tarmac I had hoped to speed up but it wan’t to be, and the cut off time was fast approaching. I was going to be timed out before hitting Ambleside.Through the back roads I went, and for some reason struggled a bit finding the archway you pass through off the main road. A marshal in the street egged me into a “run”, pushing me to make it in time. I did, by a matter of under two minutes, and passed straight through (despite me telling him I was done, he seemed to compel me onwards) into the park. A couple of guys left with me, asking if I thought I could do the next leg in the allotted two hours – I said I doubted it.Leg 13 - Ambleside to Chapel Stile
Leg: 9.0km 234m ascent
Total: 152.7km 6186m ascent
Planned time: 2:30 hours
Planned total: 35:00Once more, I managed fine on the ascent and kept up with the two guys without difficulty. Once on the rocky open fell road, I hit the descent which leads down to Skelwith Bridge and was really in a mess. I started the drop down but after a few hundred yards I’d used up 40 minutes and got nowhere fast. I was hugely indecisive, turning back and then going on, but eventually admitted to myself that I was in no shape to make the next CP. I turned round and went back to Ambleside – the 40 minute uphill took me 1:20 on the way down.At Ambleside, the checkpoint was closed, packed up and locked. I had to phone Chris to let him know, as I was still active on the system and they wouldn’t have known where I was. A minibus was duly dispatched. I texted my wife to let her know, and when she got the text she thought it was the update to say I was at Chapel Stile. ‘Fraid not. A bit of a text mix up meant that she came to pick me up, but the minibus got to me first. Back at base I was logged as stopped, picked up my drop bag and wandered back towards the cottage. My wife picked me up on the way, and took me back. Taking my shoes off revealed blood blisters over the toes, and nasty maceration under the left foot. A bath and then a few hours sleep revived me, and frustratingly I felt generally far better than last time. My left foot and ankle are like a sausage though, really swollen and painful.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GonybTUXsns/V6MiVyKoPgI/AAAAAAAAAF0/YQ7gYolshdcyHn2QooMUnglX2uiCHQgtACEw/s320/IMG_2024.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GonybTUXsns/V6MiVyKoPgI/AAAAAAAAAF0/YQ7gYolshdcyHn2QooMUnglX2uiCHQgtACEw/s1600/IMG_2024.JPG)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nS8FPbhff2Y/V6MiWGXD9HI/AAAAAAAAAF8/5HdQxViJdoA-n89HHQVP64m6fs1BioegwCEw/s320/IMG_2026.JPG) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nS8FPbhff2Y/V6MiWGXD9HI/AAAAAAAAAF8/5HdQxViJdoA-n89HHQVP64m6fs1BioegwCEw/s1600/IMG_2026.JPG)
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Yrs9OnvGKpw/V6MiWAS4yYI/AAAAAAAAAGA/RSXGycviBLAq7FQHZqanWz8WZTEB3tq3wCEw/s320/IMG_2031.JPG) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Yrs9OnvGKpw/V6MiWAS4yYI/AAAAAAAAAGA/RSXGycviBLAq7FQHZqanWz8WZTEB3tq3wCEw/s1600/IMG_2031.JPG)
Analysis
William Naismith described a calculation for walking speed way back in 1892, essentially stating 1 hour for every 5km plus an hour for every 600m ascent (although he described it in imperial). If we apply this to the stages of the Lakeland 100, we can see where the wheels (feet?) came off this year. Basically I’ve divided the distance by 5, the ascent by 600 and added them together. Comparing this to the time I took on each stage gives a ratio of actual vs expected speed.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ytWM_ObA8Q/V6MiqHI5zLI/AAAAAAAAAGE/xY-Xhu6-3nUfxcYj4AZC7BafNAyYgNasACEw/s320/IMG_2034.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ytWM_ObA8Q/V6MiqHI5zLI/AAAAAAAAAGE/xY-Xhu6-3nUfxcYj4AZC7BafNAyYgNasACEw/s1600/IMG_2034.JPG)
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DhSO0OS992k/V6MSbDyYboI/AAAAAAAAAFU/_gnEobM_0zQ3j0U0V_VGn30URUPhLPiIACLcB/s320/UTLD.png) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DhSO0OS992k/V6MSbDyYboI/AAAAAAAAAFU/_gnEobM_0zQ3j0U0V_VGn30URUPhLPiIACLcB/s1600/UTLD.png)
I’m a bit surprised that the Leg to Mardale Head hasn’t a higher figure too, as I hate that bit and it felt like a long slog along the side of Haweswater. Dalemain to Howtown is slightly skewed as I spent half an hour at Dalemain checkpoint.
Part of me is pretty gutted that I didn’t finish, clearly not the result I wanted. However, up until my feet became unmanageable I was on for a reasonably comfortable finish and physically I was pretty good.
Interesting stuff from Mr Kynaston as usual (with pic of Mr Cole). (https://johnkynaston.com/2016/08/02/the-highs-and-lows-of-running-in-the-lakes/)
So what now?Next year. I don’t want to end this tale on a low, so I think I’ll have to have another try next year. I have, however, learned more and can think about how to apply these.
- It is possible to complete the event in time whilst walking the whole thing. Whether this is desirable or not I don’t know, but my times weren’t too shabby until it all went wrong.
- GoreTex shoes were good last time, but certainly don’t convey advantage once water is in them.
- I should have stopped to change socks before getting in as much of a mess.
- Whilst I failed this time, I have one completion and one 90 mile retirement under my belt. This is a reasonable record to take forward to next year.
Bottom line? I need to sort out a method to avoid foot issues and blisters. This is always my problem, and I’ve never retired due to anything else. As far back as I can remember I've always suffered from blisters, whether doing running, fell walking, Scottish winter, Alpine or whatever. I have 12 months to find a solution……
See you all on the trails, and at the Lakeland 100 2017.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Hey GCW, I was tracking my partners brother and kept an eye on your progress, gutted for you when I noticed, I thought you were in when you'd clocked in at Ambleside. Brutal.
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Supreme effort regardless. Well done!
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Good write up. Good effort!
What socks were you wearing?
Western state 100 runners tend to wear Injinji socks and Hoka shoes. The Hoka's are only really suitable for trails though so I'm not sure how suitable they'll be on sections of the UTLD100. Injinji socks are awesome though. I've ran 60 miles in them and no blisters at all.
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September already (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2016/09/september-already.html)
5 September 2016, 4:33 pm
Thanks to Probes and SA Chris for their positive comments on UKB. Some people have asked me what socks and shoes I wear, including Plattsy. The answer currently is some twinskin socks with Inov8 282 GTXs, which may be the problem as my feet can get pretty hot. I have got some Injinjis but the first time I wore them I got a heel hot spot, although I did try new shoes as well.
I am currently looking to change the set up and plan to get some longer distance stuff done over the next 12 months to experiment and hopefully get a better combo. I think I'm in the Lakeland 100 2017, just awaiting formal confirmation. IronMan is in since he marshalled this year.
In the meantime, here's an old video I found on the hard drive - Pig in a Pokey at Nont Sarah's. Total class, and (whilst not essential) the double toe hook is awesome!
Pig In A Pokey (https://vimeo.com/181500612) from GCW (https://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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Great write up - really get a feel for the event.
Regards the feet - I've only ran one race (69mile Hadrian's Wall) but I was told by that Iain running fella over on ukc to use Hilly Twin Skins and smother my feet in a jar of vaseline.
That year, there was flooding pretty bad and my feet were literally under water at times, for hundreds of meters. Perfect blister conditions. I ran in Inovs but not goretex, I've done the welsh 3s a fair few times and only had blisters the once and that was when I wore goretex shoes. My thinking is normal mesh shoes dry quickly with the heat from your feet but if you trap the moisture, you sweat and this causes the blistering due to humidity. Or some such like. I'll also mention that the furthest I'd ran before that day was 17 mile, so I didn't have tough runner's feet or owt like that.
I reckon Iain's advice clinched it for me as I finished with two tiny blisters - the vaseline (literally half a jar per foot), twin skin socks and mesh shoes letting my feet get wet but not staying soaked.
Maybe worth a go - Iain knows his shizzle.
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Wet November evening (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2016/11/wet-november-evening.html)
21 November 2016, 11:39 pm
Since I last blogged time seems to have gone past at an increasing rate, and we are most of the way through November and heading to Christmas. In the interim, I've been out running a few times and found some old footage on the computer. More of that later.
In October whilst our running I bumped into Arran D up at Stronstrey, who I've not seen for years. He seemed keen to have a look around the quarry and planned to have a look at Helebore, one of R-man's classics and a good 7c. I hear reports that David Better has returned to its original (green) state, which is a real shame as it's a cracker and should be on any list. Apparently it get some inflated grade in the new routes guide, I'm sure I suggested highball 7a+/ E3. Anyway, get on it.
The last weekend in October saw IronMan and I up at Buttermere for the first Lakeland 100 recce. I didn't do it last year as I'd done the 100 in July, but this time I needed the distance in my legs. We planned to stay separate so IronMan could practice nav, and he headed off on the Walna Scar climb. I missed the poles a lot. All went well, and it was a lot drier than on the fateful day. Oddly I caught up with my colleague at CP2 where he was struggling with nausea and ankle/knee issues. He came with me up the next hill, but then turned back so I was on my own. Throughout this recce I noted that quite a few people were off route, and I was glad I knew it well. All told it was a fun day out and I was at Buttermere in 8:20 which I was happy with. I then had to sit in the car for a bit to await IronMan in the broom wagon, before we headed back to a cottage for shepherd's pie courtesy of my lovely wife. Nice.
Two weeks ago was the Hell of a Hill (http://www.hillrunner.org.uk/info2.cfm?info_id=218855) race, I had wanted to do the 5 in 5 day challenge but couldn't sort out leave for ages - once I did finally get it off the event was full, so I just did the Thursday marathon. This was an interesting event, six loops up and down Rivington Pike. Coming down the cobbles to the high school wasn't fun on loop six, and I wonder how it would be on day 5 for the 30th time. The weather wasn't great, but it stopped raining for a while and the sun came out. Another fun day, and an interesting medal.
Next planned event is the second recce but I'll try to keep myself busy in the meantime. And so to the old video. Nik and I went up to Scout Crag, opposite Widdop, way back in August 2008. I'd been up there a few years before that to look at the Shoulder Boulder, which is a bit crap really. The one obvious (or not that obvious) gem is Boggy's Roof, at the far left end of the crag, hidden away. It's well worth hunting out as it's a diminutive but excellent grit roof in a lovely location, with just enough walk in to get you warmed up. This video shows the tall and short methods, Nik smooth as ever and me struggling hard to latch the left hand sloped scoop. Enjoy.
Boggy's Roof 7b (https://vimeo.com/192529624) from GCW (https://vimeo.com/gcw) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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2016 Round-up (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2017/01/2016-round-up.html)
4 January 2017, 12:04 pm
2016 is gone, and I can't say I'm sad to see it go. Brexit. Trump. The deaths of a big list of celebrities (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-38418802).
January saw a couple of runs up Pendle Hill, but little else. February was much the same.
March saw me run the Rivington Trail 26 route for fun, plus a few more outings to get distance in the legs for the Buttermere to Dalemain recce. This was in April and went pretty well, finishing quicker than previous events.
In May I did the Malhamdale Trail 22 (with pie and peas instead of a medal), the Howgills 26 (felt harder this year) and the Pooley Bridge to Ambleside Recce (where Iron Man succumbed to the heat and a bad knee).
June saw a few outings to the Lakes and a few more Wainwrights ticked off, as well as the Pennine 39 (which was a good low key event courtesy of Joe Faulkner).
July started off well with more poor weather hill ticking, but finished on a low with me pulling out of the Lakeland 100 at 91 miles. Back again for 2017.
August saw a great holiday to France, which was far too short. September and October nil of note, November I ran the Hell of a Hill (one day only) which was "fun". December not much activity wise, but a great month for birthday celebrations and a lovely Christmas.
Climbing wise, not much to report. Nik, R-man and I met up at Knowle Heights in March where they did a couple of FAs and I did sweet FA. In October I had an hour at Lower Montcliffe, where I was rubbish so ran up Winter Hill as punishment.
So here we are at the start of 2017. Totally unfit for climbing and need to get back on the running. To summarise
85 out of 214 Wainwrights done.
65 books finished out of teh BBC Big read 100 list
26 Marathons/ Ultras under the belt, and more to come
91.2kg with an abdominal measurement of 105cm - this is the main aim for 2017: get back in some semblance of shape, back on the board, and get the UTLD 100 nailed.
Happy New Year everyone.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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June 2017 already (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2017/06/june-2017-already.html)
6 June 2017, 11:28 am
Long time no blog. It seems to have become June 2017 and I'm not sure how that happened! So what's been going on since the 2016 update? Well, not a lot to be honest.
We are now into the final countdown to the Lakeland 100 2017 (http://www.lakeland100.com/), so most things this year have been related to this. However, there was one rogue visit to some rocks this year...
In January I did the Rivington NightRunner (http://www.thenightrunner.com/) with the IronMan. I felt unfit, was slower than any other time, and fell on may face once. Enjoyed it though, not a bad opener for the year. We also had some family walks exploring the countryside around Ribchester. The month was finished off by a return to my drop out point on the 100, when we did the Ambleside to Coniston recce.
February saw a few walks and shorter local runs, as well as a trip to Amsterdam for the weekend with LAA. This is such a great place and we really enjoyed it. The weather wasn't great but we had some great food (including bitterballen, stampot and a great steak at Café Loetje). We didn't want to come home.
In March IronMan and I ran the Rivington Trail 26 route, again less fit and less quick than before. It's still miles in the legs though. Other than that, it was a good number of family walks and short runs.
April involved an epic Easter egg hunt, set up around the surrounding countryside and covering 10km. The kids (and adults) seemed to enjoy it. I also took in the first trip to the Lake District to combine some running and Wainwright bagging. And then, at the end of the month, I met up with Nik at Work for a day in Snowdonia. Whilst I was utterly rubbish ( I was glad to get up V3) we had a good day, and the BeardyBeast enjoyed a healthy post-climb snack at Pete's Eats. Nice to see him too (eventually).
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zk4YGaU9Ddk/WTaBSD7WyyI/AAAAAAAAAG0/uOyUQjnCPigjV7Xu2PaInUULj09AT0lgwCLcB/s400/Butty.JPG) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zk4YGaU9Ddk/WTaBSD7WyyI/AAAAAAAAAG0/uOyUQjnCPigjV7Xu2PaInUULj09AT0lgwCLcB/s1600/Butty.JPG)
?
In May I ticked off a few more Wainwrights in my attempts to get some climbing into the legs, then IronMan and I did the Malhamdale Trail 22 (http://www.malhamdaletrailrunning.co.uk/) and Howgills Trail 26 (http://www.trail26.com/) on consecutive days. Day 1 felt pretty OK, but the Sunday was a bit of a shocker to start. The first 25km my legs fought back and refused to do much at all, but after that they seemed to loosen up a bit and things improved.
LAA and I had a nice walk around Warton Crag and the local area with a relative, reminding me that it's a long time since I've been there bouldering. I can't imagine I'd get up anything there at the minute, but Poison was one on my list that I never ticked off.
To round the month off, IronMan and I did the Pooley Bridge to Ambleside recce. It was really hot again, and I still don't like Fusedale. Nuff said.
So here we are at June, nearly half the year gone already. 99 Wainwrights done, 29 Ultra distances under the belt, still slowly ticking the BBC top 100 books (A Suitable Boy at present) etc. We are going to have some changes soon as LAA finishes her current job at the end of the month, so is getting a dog soon and will have a more balanced and enjoyable life balance.
My main thing at present is to actually finish the Lakeland 100 this year. Last year's issue was purely down to the feet failure, so I'm exploring footwear and socks still. Hopefully if I can get this sorted I will be able to report back with some positive news. Fingers crossed!
As an aside, I'm slowly re-uploading my videos to Vimeo (due to sound copyright issues). One to embed here is David Vetter 7a+. I believe there is some interest on the FaceBook Lancs Bouldering site (I don't do Facebook), so here's some beta. I believe Dave Mann is keen to grab the 3rd ascent, but in the meantime here's some comedy gold:
https://vimeo.com/216287656
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)
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September update (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2017/09/september-update.html)
9 September 2017, 6:17 pm
Been a while. Not a lot to report other than the attempt on the Lakeland 100, which didn't quite go to plan. It was wet, very wet. The plan was the same as last time, since the feet were the issue last time.
The family had a cottage in Coniston and were on hand for support; it's just great to have them with me, and this year we had the addition of our little pup.
Leg 1 - Coniston to Seathwaite
Leg: 11.3km 659m ascent
Total: 11.3km 659m ascentPlanned time: 1:50
Leg time: 1:46:34
Planned total: 1:50
Total time: 1:46:34
0:03:26 ahead of schedule
IronMan and I set off together. It was threatening rain the whole time, and in the end it rained heavily overnight. A lot of people commented what an horrible night it was. I felt fine getting to Seathwaite, although Pavel Paloncy appeared to be sitting in the corner looking unhappy.
Leg 2 - Seathwaite to BootLeg: 11.1km 385m ascentTotal: 22.4km 1044m ascentPlanned time: 1:55Leg time: 2:01:50Planned total: 3:45Total time: 3:48:240:03:24 behind schedule
It was raining a lot by now, so my feet were wet anyway. The underfoot conditions were the worst I've seen them, and this was to be the theme of the event. Quite a few people took the short cut track and missed out on the Church - I know it's only a few hundred metres shorter, but it's still not the official route!Leg 3 - Boot to Wasdale HeadLeg: 8.6km 297m ascent
Total: 31.0km 1341m ascent
Planned time: 1:45
Leg time: 1:54:41
Planned total: 5:30
Total time: 5:43:05
0:13:05 behind schedule
This leg was very wet too, and the rain really didn't help at all. We spent quite a while in the Stroller checkpoint, having survived the shark in the beck. IronMan spent quite a while changing socks and cleaning his shoes out, and didn't seem in his usual shape
Leg 4 - Wasdale Head to ButtermereLeg: 11.0km 712m ascent
Total: 42.0km 2053m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 3:24:55
Planned total: 8:30
Total time: 9:08:00
0:38:00 behind schedule
I was feeling good on the Black Sail ascent, with fresh socks inside my Hoka Speed Goats. I'm loving these shoes, just the best thing ever. IronMan was slow on the ascent, and even slower on the drop back down to the YHA, falling over occasionally too. We struggled over Scarth Gap, and IronMan fell over more on the descent. We found the hole-in-the-wall easily (I've done this section so many times!). Once we got to the path beside Buttermere, IronMan ordered me to go on alone. After some debate, I set off and was soon out of sight. I was aware that the cut off of 9:30 wasn't far off, and that I was way off schedule. I had a brief stop in the checkpoint and got going.
Leg 5 - Buttermere to BraithwaiteLeg: 10.5km 573m ascentTotal: 52.5km 2626m ascentPlanned time: 2:30 hoursLeg time: 2:13:13
Planned total: 11:00Total time: 11:21:130:21:13 behind schedule
This leg felt fine and I was able to push the pace a bit to make up some time. I fell over three times as the path was ankle deep in slippery mud, cutting my left knee each time. I managed to run a lot of the down section after this, compared to last year. I sorted myself out at Braithwaite, and changed my soaking socks again.
Leg 6 - Braithwaite to Blencathra Centre
Leg: 13.7km 478m ascent
Total: 66.2km 3104m ascent
Planned time: 3:00 hours
Leg time: 2:42:11
Planned total: 14:00
Total time: 14:03:24
00:03:24 behind schedule
Another leg that felt OK, better than last time. I ran quite a bit of this too. Little Dave's was the usual, although hardly any chocolate cake left!
Leg 7 - Blencathra Centre to Dockray
Leg: 12.3km 417m ascent
Total: 78.5km 3521m ascent
Planned time: 2:30 hours
Leg time: 2:27:40
Planned total: 16:30
Total time: 16:31:03
00:01:03 behind schedule
I have never liked this leg, but this time the heavens opened again. The rain was torrential, and I had to put my waterproof trousers on. The water was running underfoot, and I got a bit cold. I was very glad to get to the marquee for some soup and sandwiches. Unbelievable conditions this year.
Leg 8 - Dockray to Dalemain
Leg: 16.3km 370m ascent
Total: 94.8km 3891m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 3:23:24
Planned total: 19:30
Total time: 19:54:28
0:24:28 behind schedule
I trudged along in the rain. the only positive is that the river was super high and Aira Force was impressive. The paths through this entire leg were swimming in sloppy mud, making any progress both very slippery and very tiring. I'd lost the time I'd made up by Dalemain, but that wasn't too surprising considering how it had been.
Leg 9 - Dalemain to Howtown
Leg: 11.5km 294m ascent
Total: 106.3km 4185m ascent
Planned time: 2:30
Leg time: 2:49:08
Planned total: 22:00
Total time: 22:43:36
0:43:36 behind schedule
I changed socks and swapped to my old Hokas. I popped a couple of blisters and stuck Compede on here and there. My feet were infinitely better than last year, but I did spend quite some time in the tent sorting myself out. The leg to Howtown was fine, and I jogged most of the descent to the Cowboy Checkpoint.
Leg 10 - Howtown to Mardale Head
Leg: 15.2km 765m ascent
Total: 121.5km 4950m ascent
Planned time: 4 hours
Leg time: 4:01:55
Planned total: 26:00
Total time: 26:45:31
00:45:31 behind schedule
It had stopped raining by now. The climb up to High Kop was actually OK, as was the descent. The dull bit along Haweswater was as bad as ever, but I managed to pass a couple to 50 runners here. I didn't stay long at the checkpoint, and got going uphill.
Leg 11 - Mardale Head to Kentmere
Leg: 10.4km 511m ascent
Total: 131.9km 5461m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 3:13:30
Planned total: 29:00
Total time: 29:59:01
00:59:01 behind schedule
The Gatesgarth Pass climb went well, and the descent passed by OK too. I was still running sections and the feet felt good. I was unfortunately getting tired now, since I put the head torch on when I was heading to the farm before the last climb. The rain had come and gone again, and Kentmere was a welcome sight.
Leg 12 - Kentmere to Ambleside
Leg: 11.8km 491m ascent
Total: 143.7km 5952m ascent
Planned time: 3 hours
Leg time: 4:09:??
Planned total: 32:00
Total time: 34:08:??
Well, here we go again. Sleep. Stupidly, I had packed ProPlus in my drop bag but had left it at Dalemain. Idiot. Anyway, I started the falling asleep thing again half way up Garburn Pass. This started to annoy me pretty quickly, but I couldn't do much about it. The whole of this leg consisted of me waking up standing somewhere on the course. People overtook me left right and centre. When I got to Robin Lane the heavens opened again. I spoke to my long suffering wife to let her know what was going on. Then I carried on 50:50 sleeping and walking. I'd missed the cut off and had to stop at Ambleside. Damn!
So, after this I got a lift back with a kind chap in an MX5 (thanks). After a sleep, my wife made me some bacon butties. We went to the presentations, and heard some crazy stories. Annoyingly I felt good.
What next? Well, out of three starts I've completed once and got to Ambleside twice. Next year I'm doing the 50 to try to get a decent time and then go back to the 100 in 2019. I've got the Red Rose 50 in a couple of weeks, then the Manchester half, then Hell of a Hill. I suppose I'd be more gutted if I'd never finished the 100, but it's still annoying when I should really have 3 finishes but for stupid issues!
So, thanks once again to the family for all the support. I couldn't do these events without you all.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/)