UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Danny on March 19, 2018, 09:11:13 am
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I see on 8a that Mark Edwards reckons his Carn Vellan route Nuts Are Not The Only Fruit might be 8c+/9a:
https://www.8a.nu/news/8b+-in-1991-possibly-8c+-9a-2018 (https://www.8a.nu/news/8b+-in-1991-possibly-8c+-9a-2018)
As a recent SW blow-in, I think it's a shame that the bolting debate went the way it did.
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::) :-\
I agree with you about the bolting debate though. From the various bits of footage I've seen, Carn Vellan looks a great venue for some good long enduro sport routes on the main overhanging face.
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Chatting with another Cave devotee, and ex-SW resident on Saturday, they reckoned that a good number of the routes in Carn Vellan were"un-chopped" and still climbable? Monster Munch, 8b+ was mentioned in particular.
With the dew-point/air-temp knowledge derived from the Diamond, I think you could probably have a good stab at predicting when the crag would be in good nick too?
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Chatting with another Cave devotee, and ex-SW resident on Saturday, they reckoned that a good number of the routes in Carn Vellan were"un-chopped" and still climbable? Monster Munch, 8b+ was mentioned in particular.
Bolts likely to be rusted stumps after 25 yrs on a sea cliff though. Doubt they would be marine grade stainless if they were put in in 90/91.
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I walked around there maybe 15 years back - I don't recall any bolts at the time although I dont know if it had been rebolted at that point. The chopping of the old bolts was a fucking mess though.
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Have a look at this old UKC thread:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/e10_aspirations-331442 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/e10_aspirations-331442)
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Have a look at this old UKC thread:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/e10_aspirations-331442 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/e10_aspirations-331442)
Excellent stuff!
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Have a look at this old UKC thread:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/e10_aspirations-331442 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/e10_aspirations-331442)
Vintage.
Can't say I noticed any bolts at CV--only been there the once this summer, and I didn't look too hard. As for the grade of NANTOF: above my pay grade on both counts. I guess we'll likely never know one way or the other.
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Jen’s Fact checking journalism at its best.
Marks Devon stuff have been a chat room wet dream since before chat rooms existed. I don’t know the guy but have always felt he has a wry smile whilst writing this shit.
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Carn Vellan is possibly an even worse grease-fest than The Diamond!
There's nice easy trad on the main slab tho :)
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I remember there being bolts there when I was a student (so maybe 2007 - 08). I seem to recall some glue ins, but also some galvanised expansion bolts. They looked reasonably new at the time (from a distance) and hadn't been chopped.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to M. Edwards)
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> good effort. This is the sort of stuff we should more of on UKC. especially onsight FAing. respect. But what if it had been harder than you could onsight??
Good point, and my answer is I did not know the grade or what the outcome would be. I have taken my share of ground falls over the years, spent time in hospital too as a result (no fun, but love those nurses ;-)) My mate Kevin says I have a "face" when I am about to do something scary. He says he knows I am confident of the outcome too. And my sadly now late mate Robert Southall used to tell me "You've done this shit before Mark" when he belayed me, and that fired me up always. I also practice a lot of down climbing (reversing routes, normally solo in Cornwall) This gives me an extra dimension, I see the route as a two way option, if I can make an upward move then I have damn good chance at reversing it too. I teach down climbing to my students for this reason, its something I strongly believe in. Practice your down-climbing folks... its the way forward for on-sighting. Mark
Appears to be the source of Franco's inspiration ;-)
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I walked around there maybe 15 years back - I don't recall any bolts at the time although I dont know if it had been rebolted at that point. The chopping of the old bolts was a fucking mess though.
Bang some nice shiny new ones in, and get rid of any unsightly stumps while you're at it. :devangel:
Do the route.
Maybe use stainless rawls, and take out when you're done.
Too many bolting debates turn out to be not much more than "our gang is bigger than yours", maybe rubber stamped with some sort of spurious "Governing body" approval.
I doubt I'd ever get in the way of a route being de-bolted, and I've felt p'd off with bolts appearing on/near my own routes, but I've never felt comfortable with any group laying down the law and declaring "thou shalt/shall not bolt".