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the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Ged on March 23, 2017, 01:19:30 pm

Title: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: Ged on March 23, 2017, 01:19:30 pm
Off to France with the with the Wife over Easter for 10 days in the van. Any ideas for some new places to go climbing?  We've done a lot at the usual haunts like st leger, buis area, tarn.  I think it might be a bit chilly at ceuse.  Been to orpierre a fair bit.  So any suggestions of new areas to check out would be great, ideally with good van camping, good stuff in the 6's and high 7's /8's. 

Cheers for any thoughts!
Title: Re: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: jwi on March 23, 2017, 01:47:39 pm
Briançon?
Title: Re: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: Ged on March 23, 2017, 05:13:39 pm
Good idea. Been there a bit in the summer and never been particularly blown away by the climbing, any crag recommendations?
Title: Re: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: Steve R on March 23, 2017, 10:05:16 pm
Been to the Ariege before?  If you like quiet crags, variety and don't mind fairly stiff grading it might be an option.  re. van camping - some of the crag parkings are fine to stay in and have water and toilet blocks.   
Title: Re: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: tomrainbow on March 23, 2017, 10:15:16 pm
St Gery in The Lot is awesome Ged...really tranquil and with a fantastic selection of grades, no seepage problems and plenty of sun. If you want to borrow my guide, feel free. Nice quiet valley with plenty of overnight parking spots and only about an hour South to Gorges D'Aveyron or north to Autoire/Ceou.
Title: Re: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: old cheese on March 24, 2017, 07:28:14 am
The area in and around buis les barronaise? (Sp)..... Crags at malaucine, St leger all great
Title: Re: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: Ged on March 24, 2017, 10:08:11 am
Cheers Tom that sounds great, might well give that a try.  A guidebook would be great to borrow thanks.  Can pop round one evening?
Title: Re: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: tomrainbow on March 24, 2017, 10:10:58 pm
No problem Ged...I've left a long, rambling message on your mobile.
Title: Re: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: jwi on March 25, 2017, 12:11:45 am
Big Wall in St Gery has some really good routes. “Los taquos de los dos rigolos” in particular is a splendid 8a.

Lots of sun.
Title: Re: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: Ged on April 18, 2017, 11:54:14 am
Thought I'd report back;

St Gery is awesome! Really good routes from about 6b upwards, although it was quite hot in the sun, gets shade about 3.  But excellent long (30 metre) routes, in a beautiful valley.

Also went to Autoire, which is good but was quite seepy, so limited routes to climb.  Excellent 6's, but the 7's were pretty short and bouldery, so not the best onsighting venue.

Also worth mentioning that Ceuse in April is deserted, and was brilliant climbing conditions.  Pleasant warming up in the sun, and perfect in the shade.  ABout 3 other teams on the whole crag.
Title: Re: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: a13c on April 18, 2017, 01:03:33 pm
I went to ceuse in April in '02 i think. The first five days were awesome, perfect temps and really quiet, then it snowed, and snowed and the waterfalls on the crag froze... Had to get towed out of the campsite by tractor.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: Ged on April 18, 2017, 03:10:31 pm
I'll count myself lucky then!
Title: Re: Ideas for Easter cragging in France or somewhere vannable
Post by: Coops_13 on April 18, 2017, 05:51:09 pm
It is unseasonably warm in Europe at the moment. Went to Magic Wood where they normally have a metre of snow now, there was none...
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