UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: Kingy on February 24, 2016, 01:39:54 pm
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Ellis Butler Barker has climbed one of the longstanding projects left of Tuppence at Anstey's Cove, saying there is a harder, right hand variant still to go. Apparently this involves crux moves of 8A/+. I know this was tried by Ken Palmer and Rob Sutton and probably others over the years, great to see if finally climbed. :2thumbsup: :bounce:
For more details see his 8a scorecard.
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For more details see his 8a scorecard.
Longstanding left streak project finally went! I went straight up into the block of La Creme, a harder right variation is yet to go. Spent a lot of time on this last year after I did Brian but couldn't even hold the holds, after a lot of training over the past few months I was back and it went fairly quickly. Something like an 8A/+ boulder in the middle of the wall!
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Geddon!!
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Nice one Ellis, not knowing Ansteys very well is there a pic/vid of the line?
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Nice one Ellis, not knowing Ansteys very well is there a pic/vid of the line?
:worms:
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Well yeah I'd hope it's on film for more positive reasons too
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Nice one Ellis, not knowing Ansteys very well is there a pic/vid of the line?
I have taken a pic of my old Dorset rockfax to show the line of Iridescence. It is the left hand red, dotted arrow labelled 'P' (for project) on the topo going going up the grey streak to the left of Postman Pat (route 8 on the topo). I hope this dropbox link works.
www.dropbox.com/home?preview=IMG_1918.JPG (http://www.dropbox.com/home?preview=IMG_1918.JPG)
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Ted shows us conclusive proof right there
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Nice one Ellis, not knowing Ansteys very well is there a pic/vid of the line?
I have taken a pic of my old Dorset rockfax to show the line of Iridescence. It is the left hand red, dotted arrow labelled 'P' (for project) on the topo going going up the grey streak to the left of Postman Pat (route 8 on the topo). I hope this dropbox link works.
www.dropbox.com/home?preview=IMG_1918.JPG (http://www.dropbox.com/home?preview=IMG_1918.JPG)
Hasn't worked for me but thanks Ted, appreciate the effort
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Didn't work for me either, just took me to my own dropbox.
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more info about the route on UKC
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70290
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In the dark!
Here's proof of Ellis sending:
(http://slimber.com/gallery/images2/18/181051/original-malevich-black-square.jpg)
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It seems worth emphasising, he did come third at BUCS last weekend (also mentioned on the UKC report). The full results are available here http://bucs.org.uk/page.asp?section=6584§ionTitle=Championships
He's not weak.
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Didn't work for me either, just took me to my own dropbox.
I have uploaded it to Imgur this time, here is the topo. (I deleted the http:// before the dropbox link like I do to embed youtube videos on here, maybe that's where it went wrong but I digress)
http://i.imgur.com/IIGYODl.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/IIGYODl.jpg)
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I have uploaded it to Imgur this time, here is the topo. (I deleted the http:// before the dropbox link like I do to embed youtube videos on here, maybe that's where it went wrong but I digress)
http://i.imgur.com/IIGYODl.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/IIGYODl.jpg)
Imgur links you need to encapsulate with the img BBcode markup (in this case with a 'width' argument so people don't complain that its too large)...
[img width=1024]http://i.imgur.com/IIGYODl.jpg[/img]
Results in...
(http://i.imgur.com/IIGYODl.jpg)
(There are pages on the Wiki on embedding pictures but unfortunately the Wiki isn't on[-line] at present).
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Nice one Slackers cheers, gradually learning the art of embedding! :)
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He's not weak.
I don't think anyone is saying he is?
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Good bit of blank rock that! Nice one.
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After everything else that has been written in the past few weeks you really would have thought he would have gone out of his way to ensure there was some evidence this time around.
I know it's sad that it has come to that and there is no doubt that he is strong but surely if you were putting up routes at the higher end where people do care and there was doubts over your validity this was a perfect opportunity to get it on film and make a big statement to the doubters.
However we get the "it was done in the dark" story which will just add fuel to the fire and give the doubters (of which I am 1) even more fuel to throw on the fire.
This makes me even more doubtful if I'm honest and feel he's missed a real opportunity!
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Wonder who the belayer was?
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Wonder who the belayer was?
A chap called Dom Taylor. It says so in his logbook.
Didn't the Brian doubts persist because he was belayed by his ex? Despite climbing 8a herself (according to her UKC logbook) she was probably busy applying make-up or shopping for shoes on her smartphone (they can multitask can't they, eh? eh?) whilst belaying, thus making her confirmation invalid.
Now that Ellis has been belayed by a male then I'm sure this can all be put safely to bed.
Unless of course this is all a conspiracy and there is a secret society of yoofs in the south west who are in it together to falsify ascents of hard routes. Because that is the only realistic explanation isn't it?
:slap:
But also, if Ellis gives even a single crap about whether people believe him or not, then how can he possibly have done this and not got even the worst quality phone footage of something, anything happening at the crag?
:slap: :slap:
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Wonder who the belayer was?
One of Dai's entourage apparently
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For the record, I witnessed Ellis do the first ascent of Chimera 8b+ at Anstey's on 7 June 2014 which links fishermans tale into tuppence. This was a stepping stone on the way to doing Brian the following April
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From UKC
UKC contacted the belayer, Dom Taylor. He responded as follows:
"Yes I can vouch for Ellis's ascent. He spent Tuesday afternoon working the route but the ascent was done in the dark. We did look at filming for all the reasons mentioned but nothing was showing up on the camera.
Hope this helps,
Dom."
Ellis if you're reading this get over to Blackers Hole and do Bob's route!
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Ellis if you're reading this get over to Blackers Hole and do Bob's route!
+1
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After everything else that has been written in the past few weeks you really would have thought he would have gone out of his way to ensure there was some evidence this time around.
I was down at Ansteys on the Weds and met Ellis and Dom who had been camping down there under the Lynch the night before. Ellis has some funky little wireless mini-camera on a built-in gorilla pod type tripod so I imagine there must at least be footage of him working the route. I doubt it would have built-in nightvision so probably wouldn't have recorded much at 10pm!
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On the UKC thread Natalie Berry said she contacted the belayer Dom Taylor who said:
"Yes I can vouch for Ellis's ascent. He spent Tuesday afternoon working the route but the ascent was done in the dark. We did look at filming for all the reasons mentioned but nothing was showing up on the camera.
Hope this helps,
Dom."
I don't know who Dom Taylor is but he has a logbook on UKC here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=203398 and is clearly a handy climber ie knows what he is seeing as opposed to a non-climbing belayer who might not.
Unless there is anything else factual I am missing can we leave it there :please:
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On the UKC thread Natalie Berry said she contacted the belayer Dom Taylor who said:
"Yes I can vouch for Ellis's ascent. He spent Tuesday afternoon working the route but the ascent was done in the dark. We did look at filming for all the reasons mentioned but nothing was showing up on the camera.
Hope this helps,
Dom."
I don't know who Dom Taylor is but he has a logbook on UKC here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=203398 and is clearly a handy climber ie knows what he is seeing as opposed to a non-climbing belayer who might not.
Unless there is anything else factual I am missing can we leave it there :please:
That's good enough for me.
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I thought rich's action directe video was pretty conclusive too :fishing:
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Have you seen dom taylors metoric rise through the grades in the last few months his logbook is there for all to see on tother side? :fishing:
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Fuck All this :fishing: shit.
Nice one Ellis.
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For those people with a sense of humour bypass Doylo filmed rich's action vid, really good vid, which was seen as proof of an ascent by some people. Just for a bit of background info
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Fuck All this :fishing: shit.
Nice one Ellis.
Ironic backing
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Fuck All this :fishing: shit.
Nice one Ellis.
Ironic backing
I don't get it?
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Its quite simple, and very funny :clap2:
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No.
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Its quite simple, and very funny :clap2:
I'm sure it's really funny, but I still don't get it? :doubt:
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On the UKC thread Natalie Berry said she contacted the belayer Dom Taylor who said:
"Yes I can vouch for Ellis's ascent. He spent Tuesday afternoon working the route but the ascent was done in the dark. We did look at filming for all the reasons mentioned but nothing was showing up on the camera.
Hope this helps,
Dom."
I don't know who Dom Taylor is but he has a logbook on UKC here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=203398 and is clearly a handy climber ie knows what he is seeing as opposed to a non-climbing belayer who might not.
Unless there is anything else factual I am missing can we leave it there :please:
+1
Anstey's is a pretty busy place. Ellis all but lives there and plenty of locals have seen him climbing. It's starting to look like he's developed a "fuck the old wankers" attitude to UKB in particular.
I don't know Dom, but putting 2 and 2 together, I'd guess he's a student (like Ellis) at Plymouth? So, young lad hit's Uni and rapidly progresses in his climbing because he's suddenly:-
Free to do what he wants.
Has mates who do the same thing.
Has a car/access to transport.
Lots of time.
Is ~18-20 years old and right at his peak.
Just a guess of course.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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He's a professional climber, so he has at least contractual responsibilities to his sponsors. If every time he reports a hard ascent, there is no evidence and it creates a 50 post forum debate about whether he's lying, sponsors will be having words you would think.
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I'm really lost at sea with this whole ellis situation now, what can we assume at the moment :doubt:
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It's starting to look like he's developed a "fuck the old wankers" attitude to UKB in particular.
You could hardly blame him.
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Absolutely.
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Indeed. This thread hasn't been our finest hour.
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Indeed. This thread hasn't been our finest hour.
Apart from that bit where Slackers embedded that pic from the guidebook. That was cool
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True, I for one wish he would go back and video it, to silence us doubters.
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Indeed. This thread hasn't been our finest hour.
Apart from that bit where Slackers embedded that pic from the guidebook. That was cool
True, I for one wish he would go back and video it, to silence us doubters.
Agreed. I'm not sure I believe that slackers actually did the imbedding. I think it may have a been someone else. I'd really like the video proof.
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Toby D makes a good point on the other channel. The sport crags round here (also coastal) tend to gop out as it gets dark. There's no way you could climb something hard on LPT at 10 pm. Maybe it's different in the southern climate :-\
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It's also quite different in winter. Evening gop is more common in the summer months. Seems a poor reason to doubt an ascent with a belayer witness.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thought it was dark? How did his belayer witness anything? :worms:
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I think it is fair to say that the anomalies surrounding EBB's claims have been well aired now.
Despite the frustration I think that further speculation is going to be increasingly unsavoury nor achieve anything in weighing up the veracity of his claims. I also specifically think that it is unfair and undeserved at this point to drag his belayer through the mud and would amount to bullying.
Any big unsubstantiated claims from EBB going forward are going to increase the level of doubt and number of doubters and treated with contempt and derision by some. The spotlight is on EBB now and I hope he responds by delivering hard ascents backed by hard evidence.
Remember that a youthful and exuberant Moffatt and Pollitt over-reached in claiming the first free ascent of Mayfair but went on to better things.
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Razzle?
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Toby D makes a good point on the other channel. The sport crags round here (also coastal) tend to gop out as it gets dark. There's no way you could climb something hard on LPT at 10 pm. Maybe it's different in the southern climate :-\
On Friday night I was talking to a friend I hadn't seen for a while down at the local wall and he said he's had a fair few evening lamp-light bouldering sessions at Ansteys through the winter and conditions have been generally been excellent.
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I've been down ansteys at night a fair bit recently and conditions have been mint.
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Fairy muff. I didn't consider the difference between summer and winter. He should defo video something hard to shut everyone up though.
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I know what you mean about it happening in the summer though. This cold snap has made it sticky as anything down there.
Agreed that a vid would be nice though
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He should defo video something hard to shut everyone up though.
Why do I get the feeling that if and when this happens there will still be doubts?
"That's obviously Adam Ondra wearing a blondey brown wig and a pair of headphones"
"It's amazing what you can achieve with stop motion nowadays"
etc etc etc
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I disagree. I think one unedited film of something would be enough for most people
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When I was at Anstey's one day in August 2014 Ellis was basically lapping all the hard routes on Ferocity Wall as a 'work out'. I like to think I have the experience to say he looked like an 8c+ climber and that was 18 months ago. The word "Machine" sprung to mind.
I didn't witness him doing his new F8c, but 8c is really not very hard thesedays and F8c on your home crag is definitely not that hard.
His belayer has vouched for him FFS.
Clearly there are doubts over his boulder claims (8B+ is hard), but all this sh*t about Iridescence seems very petty to me. Next time he claims a 8B+ then sure, ask for the video evidence, but I suspect 8c for Ellis is a cake walk (though he's likely following in Palmer's footsteps and not grading softly).
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Good post.
That's not concrete evidence but that is strong anecdotal evidence by an independent and highly experienced strong climber, which counts for enough IMO.
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Sounds like a beast. So basically this has come from him claiming a bust Fatman and its snowballed? He seems to have a fair few people on UKC doubting him.
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Disclaimer: I've not bothered to watch through all the shaking out for sneaky edits. Looks like send footage though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-W0PA-wU3o
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I've also been at Ansteys's last winter when Ellis was there lapping hard routes and making links on Brian before he did(?) it. There's no doubt that he's an exceptional climber and I personally wouldn't doubt this FA alone; seeing him climb I think it's well within his capabilities.
But I've also been at Cheddar and saw him on Heaven Sent and the direct (E7) with his girlfriend. Again this is well within his capabilities but what I found strange was that he had a long chain of quickdraws linking from a bolt on the adjacent sport route to one of the pegs below the crux. If that's what he felt safer doing then fair enough, but given that he wrote a blog post about it and made no mention of the style I wasn't surprised when I heard the rumours about dodgy ascents. Being honest about small but important details like this is important if you want to gain credibility IMO.
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A lot of that seemed to be locals and I think their most cited evidence is Fatman, not knowing the gear for tricky trad routes, and local FAs that turned out to be comparatively piss when compared to the given grades.
The latter to me is very understandable, particularly if Ellis hasn't done many new things before. It's all too tempting to look at a piece of new rock and try and climb it in the way you want it to climb rather than how it should actually be climbed the easiest way. This is especially problematic since he's so strong and will have the power to despatch a problem regardless of a crap sequence; whereas when I try a crap but cool sequence I generally get sent home to think up something easier/less eliminate!
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Disclaimer: I've not bothered to watch through all the shaking out for sneaky edits. Looks like send footage though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-W0PA-wU3o
What an animal! I remember that day watching Chimera go down (you can hear my voice in the background) and thinking I was watching something special. Clearly after the destruction of this link, which is probably nearer 8c to be honest, Bryan was on the cards for the following spring.
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I don't care about his ascents he climbs wearing headphones
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All this debate for that?!?!?
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To be fair they were big headphones!
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Everyone else on ukb has said something so I thought I'd better chip in lest my account gets cancelled -
don't really care tbh unless he start's claiming new Welsh winter routes. All I'd point out is you don't get seagulls in the background in Ondra's vids (more usually some idiot squawking); love the sound of a herring gull!
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He looks decent there. Why has everyone been saying there's no footage then?
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Could it be
(http://www.fantasyfootballgeek.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/bandwagon-4.jpg)
course the only thing to do really is go to malham/kilnsey/the tor and rub every cunt's nose in it. Or not, whichever the case may be.
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I didn't even know this existed. It had only had 81 views an hour ago before I put it on UKC. I guess nobody bothered to check Ellis's youtube channel. I think this is actually pretty valuable footage as its not that much less difficult than Bryan as the Hapney finish of Brian is pretty easy (7b? after a massive rest at the last bolt of Tuppence) so the only major way it differs from Brian is that it starts up Fishermans rather than Poppy.
8b+ my arse, makes Mecca look like a cakewalk!
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Everyone knows Meccas 8b now though, eh PeteJh :lol:
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Like Walking Mussel? No hope is there!
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What's he ever done at Dinbren?!