UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: Will Hunt on June 06, 2015, 03:43:37 pm
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The wall left of Treebeard, on the front face of the crag.
A steep start gains the pod. Traverse, technically, the ramp to the right (reachy) to finish at its top. Low protection is available which should protect the crux (just). A wire/thread and a small/medium cam in a flare (blue tricam works best) protect.
Feel a bit guilty for going up without Rob Fenton who was instrumental in cleaning the line. He did give the go ahead though! It stays quite cool in the shade of the clough so might make a nice summer tick for someone.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/490/18339272279_7b6da1a722_c.jpg)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/ue2ZAc](https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/350/18525492795_7fea904a50_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/tWzyHD)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/367/18337684668_57861b9ee8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/tWrqM3)
John Hunt also cleaned and climbed a direct finish which somewhat avoids the ramp at HVS/E1 5c, and also a direct boulder problem start to the ledge which appeared to have been done before at about Font 6A+.
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That's a nice looking feature.
Where's the crag Will? I couldn't see it in the guidebook (but I didn't look very hard...).
Neil
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That's a nice looking feature.
Isn't it. Ramps often seem to make really appealing features. Rock looks nice too - good stuff Will!
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Not in the book. Other than these climbs there is only Treebeard recorded there (see Dan Turner's "This is Yorkshire" film).
The crag is in Lumb Clough. Best approached by parking in a layby opposite Crag Top Farm and walking down the track towards Wood Top Farm (follow the fence across fields instead of walking through Wood Top Farm itself). When the path heads into the Clough hang an immediate right and the crag is there. There is no access agreement that I know of, nor has any landowner made an objection that I know of. This happy arrangement will probably be maintained by keeping a low profile and being on best behaviour.
http://binged.it/1GrgfOA
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That's a nice looking feature.
Isn't it. Ramps often seem to make really appealing features. Rock looks nice too - good stuff Will!
Cheers chaps. The ultimate accolade would be a repeat, so get to it! Regarding the rock, for someone who is used to developing on scrittle, it was an unsual pleasure to climb on Airedale's finest compact, bullet hard grit. The crag is next door to Earl Crag and the rock is of an equivalent quality.
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To complete the immersive multimedia experience, here is a crap video
http://youtu.be/Y0ThCYXe0to
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Good job. Height? Do I need a rope?
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8-10m? Definitely a rope job. The crag is perched on top of a steep cliff of mud, stone and vegetation. Where the great roof ceases to be an umbrella the ground has eroded away into the cliff steeply, ergo, there is no good landing - you may well end up in the Clough which would be bad news.
I fiddled trying to get a friend in but it was flared and a bit shit. I can lend you a blue tricam which seemed to work best.
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Recon there is a fair bit to do at the crag, shame the landings rubbish..... Platform?? :worms:. We approached from the village (Sutton)!
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I did wonder what you were doing down there in the video! If taking pads then that way would be most discreet and the woodland is gorgeous. Hardly a chore to walk through it.
Did you tie Stubbs down? I can't figure out how's he's spotting Mark without falling off the edge!?