UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: shark on April 07, 2014, 04:41:05 pm
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Seeing as FiveTen seem uninterested in pleas to keep making the whites I've started a facebook campaign.
https://www.facebook.com/bringbacktheanasaziwhite (https://www.facebook.com/bringbacktheanasaziwhite)
Like the page if you'd like the Whites back and if there is enough support, then who knows, maybe they'll take notice.
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You could always just use scarpas.
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I have done, in an effort to ween myself off the blanco smack, it was going well but I put my old whites on at malham and. . . . .
I SUPPORT THIS CAUSE
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You could always just use scarpas.
Might have to though after 20 years wearing them I now have five ten shaped feet
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Fully behind this campaign
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You're one model too late,the Whites were a poor replacement for the T-Rocks
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You better do the Oak before all your pairs wear out Shark :lol: :lol:
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Completely against! I have an almost new pair that I'm hoarding to pay for my retirement.
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Seeing as FiveTen seem uninterested in pleas to keep making the whites.......
......then lets plea some more!
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You 5.10 fanbois should make your minds up. They discontinue the pinks and everyone pleads for their return, then when they do bring them back, you want the whites.
It must be hard working in 5.10s marketing department when their customers don't know what they want ;)
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They've re-introduced a pink not the pink get your facts straight
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You're one model too late,the Whites were a poor replacement for the T-Rocks
Don't forget the Mesa:
http://ak1.ostkcdn.com/images/products/3/P11283178.jpg (http://ak1.ostkcdn.com/images/products/3/P11283178.jpg)
Stiffest shoes I've ever had...but I'd get another pair if I could get my hands on them!
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So what specifically is wrong with the new pinks? I tried them on and they felt very similar to the whites with a slightly better heel.....
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Are there no alternatives to the whites? Surely with all the brands in the UK now we should be over run with options?!
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Are there no alternatives to the whites? Surely with all the brands in the UK now we should be over run with options?!
There are alternatives but in my experience the Whites are by far the best shoe for Malham and the Tor.
I also like the narrow fit.
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seems you've been heard:
http://www.outside.co.uk/latest/news/The-Five-Ten-Anasazi-Blanco-is-back-by-popular-demand
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Maybe. Who knows who the suits at Five Ten listen to. Certainly they don't have great form at listening to what their athletes or customers have to say.
Are those the prototypes? if so who has tried them out yet? any feedback? the text doesn't mention whether or not they went with the thermoplastic insole as used on the Verdons and more importantly whether this or other design changes represent an improvement.
Forgive me for not getting excited just yet.
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Forgive me for not getting excited just yet.
Quite right, being pink is the only thing new and old Pinks have in common
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Took you out to the parking lot to show you his prototype eh? Fnarr fnarr
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Are those the prototypes?
I was chatting randomly to whoever. Got talking with the local who admitted he had a pair in his truck and then helpfully took me out. Initial impression was that they have more volume, which worried me. felt stiffer - said they felt that way. That also worried me.
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They also felt stiffer than the original - and the rep said they felt that way on the rock. That also worried me as I don't fancy a "front-pointing" shoe like the TC Pro's. He did emphasise that they are still prototypes.
I have been wearing the Verdons (designed for pockets) recently which have the same thermoplastic sole piece as the prototypes which does make it stiff but probably at the expense of feel. Another trade-off is that the sole piece means they arent meant to bag-out as quickly.
:devangel:
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Did you have go to a car park to feel the reps stiff prototype as you unlaced them before you could slip inside - ?
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I have been wearing the Verdons (designed for pockets) recently which have the same thermoplastic sole piece as the prototypes which does make it stiff but probably at the expense of feel. Another trade-off is that the sole piece means they arent meant to bag-out as quickly.
:devangel:
Do you think you'll be wearing them at Malham, I considered a pair but not heard enough about them to risk getting a pair instead of Muira VS (obviously the ones I really want them to relaunch are the T-Rocks)
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I have been wearing the Verdons (designed for pockets) recently which have the same thermoplastic sole piece as the prototypes which does make it stiff but probably at the expense of feel. Another trade-off is that the sole piece means they arent meant to bag-out as quickly.
:devangel:
Do you think you'll be wearing them at Malham, I considered a pair but not heard enough about them to risk getting a pair instead of Muira VS (obviously the ones I really want them to relaunch are the T-Rocks)
I will certainly try them out when I next go.
Tom Randall wore a Verdon on one foot and a White on the other when he did First Round at Ilam Rock as he reckoned the White was better for outside edging and the Verdon better for inside edging (at least I think it was that way round).
For a man of your means and discernment looking to get an 'edge' it is worth getting a pair for pocketed climbing or other awkward-to-get-your-toe-in footholds.
The Winklepickers of the range.
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Tom Randall wore a Verdon on one foot and a White on the other when he did First Round at Ilam Rock as he reckoned the White was better for outside edging and the Verdon better for inside edging (at least I think it was that way round).
For a man of your means and discernment looking to get an 'edge' it is worth getting a pair for pocketed climbing or other awkward-to-get-your-toe-in footholds.
The Winklepickers of the range.
You're quite right Simon. The inside edging (and sticking toes into small pockets) is unrivalled in the 5.10 range in my opinion. That said, the Verdons don't "smedge" in quite the same way as a month old Blanco so you've got to pick your battles. I used the Verdon to try one of the Dyer's Lookout routes and it was almost like you didn't have to use your calves any more they were so stiff and solid on positive edges - a welcome respite seeing as I'd been bouldering in caves for a month before!
The big thing that stands out on the Verdon vs Blanco though, is the outside edge. I just can't get the Verdons to do it. Must be the shape of the toe box.
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I wore the Verdons on my new route at High Tor and felt massively uncomfortable / terrified using an outside edge on the runout on the first pitch but they were wonderful on the pocketed second pitch. With hindsight I should have started with whites and had a tyre change at the belay.
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What the Five Ten Category Manager has to say about the new Whites at a trade show:
http://m.epictv.com/player/embed-player/605308
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What the Five Ten Category Manager has to say about the new Whites at a trade show:
http://m.epictv.com/player/embed-player/605308
'We've changed the way it climbs by putting in a thermo plastic insole but we retained its shitest feature, the heel'
Way to go 5:10!
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€160!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:o :furious: :no:
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€160!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:o :furious: :no:
Interesting. I wonder if they thought that the rapturous white devotees would pay anything asked for the mythical whites. I guess that thermoplastic midsole should help the dreaded "second month" squidginess that the old ones suffered from...at the cost of sensitivity wonder? Clogs anyone?
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Clogs anyone?
That's a tough crown to wrestle from the Instinct VS!
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The bits of the Verdon they've used (i.e. the tongue) I dislike immensely.
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Clogs anyone?
That's a tough crown to wrestle from the Instinct VS!
I've never had Instinct VS...are they more clog like than the Magos? They're awesome on tiny edges but require a level of "trust"...
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I'd say it depends on your bodyweight, they feel amazing to me until they don't, suddenly. I'm tempted by the XS grip versions (blue).
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Annoyed they've put that plastic mid-sole in as IMO a well broken in pair of whites are killer on the Grit...
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Slick promo of the new Whites from Ste Mac and Shark productions:
https://youtu.be/otXgwqO7l78
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I was gifted not one but TWO pairs of Whites yesterday; one well broken in of '09 vintage, another of unknown vintage which retain a slight stiffness. :2thumbsup:
I still hate my Verdons.
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I still hate my Verdons.
Liking mine.
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Liking mine.
Size in latest Whites and in Verdons? I may have just got it wrong but the knuckle at the front seems huge.
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Just arrived at Outside!
http://www.outside.co.uk/shop/Anasazi+Blanco
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:o #130 fuck. that. shit.
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Shark will only buy 4 pairs at that price.
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Sadly enough, all top-notch shoes now cost a fortune.
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:o #130 fuck. that. shit.
No doubt due to the drop in the pound. But quit complaining "it's the will of the people" or some shit
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Shark will only buy 4 pairs at that price.
I'm still waiting for them to make me a Brand Ambassador
:tumble:
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Shark will only buy 4 pairs at that price.
I'm still waiting for them to make me a Brand Ambassador
:tumble:
Surely working for the BMC come with all sorts of "pro-deal" benefits?
Pah - Five ten better put me on payroll otherwise I'm suing for mental distress for the anguish they've put me through. If the new model comes short of expectations I'm doubling my claim
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It says something about your redpointing tactics that in the time you've been seiging one 8b route, 5.10 have released three models of anasazi.. ;D
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:o #130 fuck. that. shit.
Are they being ghost manufactured by Arcteryx?
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It says something about your redpointing tactics that in the time you've been seiging one 8b route, 5.10 have released three models of anasazi.. ;D
I wonder if this could be some new measure of sieging? A proper redpoint doesn't start until you hit the 1 anasazi-release mark, and things only start to get serious at 2+. If you make it to 5 perhaps it's time to take up golf.
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:2thumbsup: I'm just happy they're back.
Can anyone confirm the sizing is unchanged? I'll be mail ordering from Oz and the postage is bad enough one way ...
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It says something about your redpointing tactics that in the time you've been seiging one 8b route, 5.10 have released three models of anasazi.. ;D
I wonder if this could be some new measure of sieging? A proper redpoint doesn't start until you hit the 1 anasazi-release mark, and things only start to get serious at 2+. If you make it to 5 perhaps it's time to take up golf.
Speaking of golf and "new measures", for me I have always been so terrible during my rare rounds of the game, that I tally my score (say, +4) as how many balls I lost, rather than the number of shots over par (which is invariably so many it's meaningless). A negative score meant I actually found more balls than I lost.
Not sure what the RPing version is for me - not shoes as I usually have lots of resoled pairs in rotation. Probably, number of times I had a breakdown and sacked it off for a while to mentally heal the scars and hope I'd forget the ingrained muscle memory of failure (happened with Raindogs, Zoolook and Soft Option - had to take breaks as it seemed I was almost semi-deliberately falling off because my mind could not grasp the possibility of success).
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How about measuring in tantrums / tears?
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How about measuring in tantrums / tears?
Or failed marriages / relationships? Or worn out ropes? Or prime ministers?
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Given the route, dendrochronology would seem appropriate :)
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That wood be good.
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I believe Shark's son has started climbing, redpointed 8a then retired from climbing during Shark's Oak siege, which would make it a 1 on the dependents scale of ultra-long sieges. Not sure what the record is but I'd be surprised if anyone's ever made it into double figures.
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Could measure the siege using the growth rate of a living Austrian Oak.
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:2thumbsup: I'm just happy they're back.
Can anyone confirm the sizing is unchanged? I'll be mail ordering from Oz and the postage is bad enough one way ...
I have the new ones and they're exactly the same for me. The only thing that seemed a bit different this year was that the Verdon velcro was 0.5 size larger than I was expecting.
BTW. New blancos don't lose any stiffness. It's actually a bit disconcerting after a few months!
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Could measure the siege using the growth rate of a living Austrian Oak.
He's not dead yet - and I suspect his growth rate was heavily influenced by steroids :)
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:2thumbsup: I'm just happy they're back.
Can anyone confirm the sizing is unchanged? I'll be mail ordering from Oz and the postage is bad enough one way ...
Tried a pair on today and seemed the same sizing to me.
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Does anyone on here know how much 5 10 sell the new blancos for at trade price by any chance?
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The latest 5.10 catalogue (http://outdoor.agron.com/ss18/mobile/index.html#p=158) - now absorbed by adidas terrex - has no sign of the blancos :o
The recently announced VCS pro is not there either so perhaps this is just a false alarm. Any 5.10 sponsored climbers care to comment?
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The latest 5.10 catalogue (http://outdoor.agron.com/ss18/mobile/index.html#p=158) - now absorbed by adidas terrex - has no sign of the blancos :o
The recently announced VCS pro is not there either so perhaps this is just a false alarm. Any 5.10 sponsored climbers care to comment?
This doesn't look like the catalogue I have seen. For one there are no synthetic Hiangles. The paper version I have seen has Blancos and Anasazi Pro's in.
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Thanks for responding. Five Ten range revision paranoia.
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Distressing to see lightweight approach shoes have gone too.
Forget if I've posted this before, but word on the street is that they'll be stopping production of 5.10 approach shoes in the next year, and rock boots the year or so after that. I see on FB they've stopped supplying rubber to resolers already.
This from a rep of a different company (not a boot mfr/ competitor) chatting to a 5.10 rep at US trade show.
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I wrote to Addidas outdoor customer services:
The Blanco does not appear in a recent catalogue. Does this mean that you have stopped producing it?
They replied:
During this new transitional period we have added all available styles on the website.
If you do not see a style on the site it is due to the fact that it has not been added to our 2018
line of products yet. As we progress further in the year we will be adding more and more styles.
So that's all clear then...
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Hopeless.
The blancos are still on the uk site http://fiveten.com/product/anasazi-blanco/ but disappeared from the US one. This maybe connected to teething issues from the US hq at Redland being closed and transferred to Germany and US sales being transferred to a distributor who now runs the US website.
I've talked with Steve Mac and the 5.10 uk agent and they haven't been told of any discontinuation of the whites. Some of the range is being slimmed down such as verdon lace ups and shoes for peripheral sports.
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Sorry. Meant the Adidas catalogue Duncan linked above