UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: JamieG on September 20, 2023, 02:54:06 pm
-
remus announced:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jBavqTama8&t=1932s
Haha beat me too it. What happened higher up? Did a hold break or something? He threw something to the ground I think.
-
Haha beat me too it. What happened higher up? Did a hold break or something? He threw something to the ground I think.
To answer my own question. He said a jug broke higher up and he almost fell off. :lol: That would have been totally devastating.
-
If you watch the stream back you can see the hold break. It looks like it jams in place long enough for him to grab something with the other hand and then he chucks it off. Bit of luck!
-
Think we should also take a moment to appreciate how odd it is that a FA of one of the hardest routes in the world was live streamed... Wasnt on my 2023 bingo card
-
Also, he looked so cruisy through (what I assume to be) the crux compared to previous attempts!
-
Feels like this went down relatively quickly for a 9c? Tbh even for a 9b+! The level is high!
Be great to see Ondra back on this as well!
-
If you watch the stream back you can see the hold break. It looks like it jams in place long enough for him to grab something with the other hand and then he chucks it off. Bit of luck!
Around 28:15 in live stream. So lucky!
-
If you watch the stream back you can see the hold break. It looks like it jams in place long enough for him to grab something with the other hand and then he chucks it off. Bit of luck!
Around 28:15 in live stream. So lucky!
Looks like it was basically the edge of a jug rather than the whole thing, hence why he stayed on. Very lucky.
-
He doesn't put his hand back in the same place which is interesting; definitely uses a slightly lower hold instead of where the bit came off.
-
The top section after the final crux looks like a Pabbay E6. It’s basically a trad route with 9c start.
-
Feels like this went down relatively quickly for a 9c? Tbh even for a 9b+! The level is high!
Be great to see Ondra back on this as well!
He did say it was his longest project to date and took 2 months over 2 years...
-
The live stream makes Ondras media team look Neolithic. Two or three camera angles including abseil and drone and presumably somebody somewhere watching the feed saying "camera 2 in 3, 2, 1, camera 2". Impressive.
-
The top section after the final crux looks like a Pabbay E6. It’s basically a trad route with 9c start.
"From this pretty good hold, it should be over; still 15 or 20 metres of climbing but only around F8a."
Those E6s at Pabby sound tough :)
-
Feels like this went down relatively quickly for a 9c? Tbh even for a 9b+! The level is high!
Be great to see Ondra back on this as well!
He did say it was his longest project to date and took 2 months over 2 years...
And working it alongside Ondra (and Bouin) for quite a lot of the time which must help in term of working out and refining the best beta.
-
Feels like this went down relatively quickly for a 9c? Tbh even for a 9b+! The level is high!
Be great to see Ondra back on this as well!
He did say it was his longest project to date and took 2 months over 2 years...
Ha I see! I’ve not watched the successful ascent and was mainly going off the videos from last year, but obviously have got the wrong impression… though would be interested to know how many sessions he has had on the route…
-
The top section after the final crux looks like a Pabbay E6. It’s basically a trad route with 9c start.
I think most routes in Flatanger could be climbed on trad. But I wouldn't wanna project a 80m overhanging trad route, sounds like a pain to clean after each attempt.
-
Jakob has just done the fa of Project Big in flatanger. 9b+ or 9c.
https://www.youtube.com/live/1jBavqTama8?si=sk6aoCC_Ci5tGjy_
Well that was jolly good fun! Fair play to him, great effort doing it, and presenting it to us audience in such a direct way. Good report at the end including the hold break too.
-
This is the ultimate in terms of confirmation of a route being climbed - gone are the days of trying to find out who his belayer/spotter was 😂
(just to be clear, not raising any doubts about JS etc)
-
Great! I cannot be the only one who wish for a better name for the route than Project Big.
-
Great! I cannot be the only one who wish for a better name for the route than Project Big.
Flatanger 7b perhaps?
-
Great! I cannot be the only one who wish for a better name for the route than Project Big.
Flatanger 7b perhaps?
😂
-
Imagine putting that much time and effort into something choss… a man after my own heart
-
The top section after the final crux looks like a Pabbay E6. It’s basically a trad route with 9c start.
I think most routes in Flatanger could be climbed on trad. But I wouldn't wanna project a 80m overhanging trad route, sounds like a pain to clean after each attempt.
You heard it here first - Connor Herson Silence on gear
-
Good report at the end including the hold break too.
I reckon that was staged, it was a stunt hold made of ricecakes which he snapped to add drama to the live feed ;).
Jokes aside, good effort. Lets see who's first to repeat..
-
Great! I cannot be the only one who wish for a better name for the route than Project Big.
Do you think he will follow Ondra's single word style (Change, Move, Silence etc) and just call it Big? Or maybe Groß? I hope not.
-
I'm praying he goes for Too Hard For Adam Ondra
-
It's an 'extension' of 'Kakestykket' (Piece of cake). So "Piece of cake extension" if he's shopping around for really crappy names.
Otherwise I think that the equipper should name the route. They are the first ascensionists after all, even if they don't do it in free.
-
Otherwise I think that the equipper should name the route. They are the first ascensionists after all, even if they don't do it in free.
A French friend was baffled by how in the UK we don't have that naming prerogative for the equipper but do consider the equipper has "closed project" rights (which apparently isn't the case in France). I wonder whether the French way is better than ours and (say) a couple of years ought to be viewed as an absolute max for closed project status with naming as a consolation prize.
-
Personally I'd go with "Too much cake for Ondra"
-
Cakewalk. He made it look easy.
-
Otherwise I think that the equipper should name the route. They are the first ascensionists after all, even if they don't do it in free.
A French friend was baffled by how in the UK we don't have that naming prerogative for the equipper but do consider the equipper has "closed project" rights (which apparently isn't the case in France). I wonder whether the French way is better than ours and (say) a couple of years ought to be viewed as an absolute max for closed project status with naming as a consolation prize.
Isn't there a big difference between how French/British routes are equipped and ultimately who pays for that?
-
Isn't there a big difference between how French/British routes are equipped and ultimately who pays for that?
In France, the equipment is often payed for by the equipper or a local club or usually a combination of the two. They then try to recover the cost by making low-cost topos sold at relative high mark-up.
-
Great! I cannot be the only one who wish for a better name for the route than Project Big.
Is that what it's settled as? Hmm. It would be nice to have a nod to Adam's vision and efforts there. Something like "Cacaphony" or "White Noise" or "Whispers"??
-
Doesn't make sense to call it Project Big cos its not a chuffin Project now is it, he did it
-
'Kakestykket' (Piece of cake).
I heard the meaning was more "piece of the cake" as it was the first line they did and saw that there was a lot more cake. I also don't think "piece of cake" is actually and expression in Scandinavian?
The FA was in fact done on gear.
-
Great! I cannot be the only one who wish for a better name for the route than Project Big.
Is that what it's settled as? Hmm. It would be nice to have a nod to Adam's vision and efforts there. Something like "Cacaphony" or "White Noise" or "Whispers"??
No he's said he's going to give it a different name.
-
I also don't think "piece of cake" is actually and expression in Scandinavian?
In the 90s in northern Sweden we most definitely used 'kakbit' as an ironic calque of 'piece of cake' instead of the established Swedish loan translation 'munsbit' (from French amuse-bouche). How they spoke in Trondelag at that time, I would not know.
-
B.I.G 9c
https://www.instagram.com/p/CxtCl5Lo58g/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
-
Great! I cannot be the only one who wish for a better name for the route than Project Big.
Do you think he will follow Ondra's single word style (Change, Move, Silence etc) and just call it Big? Or maybe Groß? I hope not.
Called it!
-
B.I.G 9c
After the K-Pop Band presumably Boys In Groove - B.I.G https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B.I.G_(band)
-
Given Jakob's liking of good old hip-hop, I'd rather assume it to be a nod to The Notorious B.I.G. -- but who knows.
-
I'd like to hope so.
-
:agree: It's an acceptable name. And okay grade.
Also mods please rename thread to to B.I.G. News ;D
-
B.I.G 9c
https://www.instagram.com/p/CxtCl5Lo58g/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
That’s some command of English for a German speaker.
-
Have you ever read any of Niky Ceria’s IG posts? His written English is outstandingly good.
-
It would be nice to have a nod to Adam's vision and efforts there. Something like "Cacaphony" ??
If that's not a typo it's a great name but hardly a nod of respect!
-
Sorry JB it's a misspelling because I am a moron, in my defence I think it was lockdown that turned me dyslexic as a trauma response (better than believing in 5g-activated-gender-eradicating-chemtrails as a trauma response at least).
-
Ondra's written a good post about the grade (can also write well in English):
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cxvax5ft-F7/
-
Compared to some of the post "send" claptrap posted by some native English speakers, they all write pretty well.
-
Megos makes some pretty good English gags in the Jam Crack I listened to. Humourless Teutons.
-
I find Megos' vids to be very entertaining, largely due to the understated, slightly odd but genuinely very funny humour in them
The very slow one armer with a completely straight face, eyes staring blankly into the camera, in complete silence, just totally cracked me up
-
Ondra's written a good post about the grade (can also write well in English):
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cxvax5ft-F7/
"All things considered, I support Jakob's 9c proposition. The only other possible solution is a slash grade."
I can't help but think the entire post was to just to let everyone know that Silence is harder :lol:
-
Compared to some of the post "send" claptrap posted by some native English speakers, they all write pretty well.
But try convincing any of them that the b in climbing is silent, no matter how good their English is otherwise.
-
Given my command of any foreign languages (even my Afrikaans is getting rusty through lack of use) I'll not criticise anyone!
-
Compared to some of the post "send" claptrap posted by some native English speakers, they all write pretty well.
But try convincing any of them that the b in climbing is silent, no matter how good their English is otherwise.
(https://img.ifunny.co/images/7f6d72b3712d54c2ff0a234f2d49cfd22aba77e42dd5a78233883be3857703a9_1.webp)
(Unfair, buy funny. Unfair because english spelling is ... a lot more irregular than French.)
For most impressive command of a foreign language, all categories, I nominate Amin Maalouf who despite speaking Arab as his native language yesterday got elected to the be the perpetual secretary of the Académie française — the governmental institution charged with defining the French language.
-
French - "every living thing is born without reason" - and every single thing, living or otherwise, has a gender, and there are no rules as to what gender it is you just have to know.
-
Quite. That the gender of a noun conveys absolutely no semantic information seems hard to wrap the head around for speakers of languages with ungendered nouns (Afrikaans as well I guess?). The good news is that if you learn the genders of French nouns you can guess the genders of Spanish nouns with near 95 % accuracy (exceptions like la tomate <> el tomate are quite rare). Swedish has four genders, but two of them are for things with biological genders and the other two convey no inherent meaning and are not completely stable across all dialects . Norwegian and Danish only have three, poor people.
-
French - "every living thing is born without reason" - and every single thing, living or otherwise, has a gender, and there are no rules as to what gender it is you just have to know.
Well, there are patterns which help. Recognise the suffixes -sse and -ion for example, and you have yourself a feminine noun. French, Spanish (and the other Romance languages) are a corrupted C21st form of Latin. And Latin feminine noun = French/Spanish feminine too. *
* as jwi says, there are always oddities eg la mer/ el mar
-
Norwegian and Danish only have three, poor people.
Luckily, some Norwegian dialects simplify by just ignoring the feminine gender other than in the cases of specifically gendered nouns (eg woman, girl, etc), effectively turning it into normal vs neutral, which is much easier!
-
Useful knowledge thanks guys, but unless I immerse myself in it I doubt my French is ever going to progress much.
-
This should help get you started:
https://youtu.be/X5hrUGFhsXo?t=1 (https://youtu.be/X5hrUGFhsXo?t=1)
-
Useful knowledge thanks guys, but unless I immerse myself in it I doubt my French is ever going to progress much.
Hang in there, after all the only way to find out which restaurants are good in an arbitrary location is to buy the francophone guidebook for the area (sometimes googling "meuilleurs addresses en XYZ" also work).
Apparently there's no other language in which this information can be reliably conveyed.