UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: thekettle on May 17, 2007, 09:39:21 pm
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After 13 weeks of zealous fingerboarding, while I'm enjoying steady progress, I find the open grip strength (on one hand dead hangs) of my dominant hand to be noticeably weaker than the other. Eg on the hardest hold, I can hang it with dominant hand for 3 seconds max, and non-dominant for 6 seconds max. This imbalance has been consistent throughout my progress. If anything I'd expect it to be the other way round. Am I a freak? :shrug:
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I'm right-handed and am noticably stronger deadhanging on my left hand. so its probably not uncommon.
As far as i know the dominant side of the brain as far as co-ordination goes should have nothing to do with strength. in fact logically you could say its expected that the non-dominant side might be stronger. For example if you're right handed and carrying something heavy into your crib you're naturally likely to hold the heavy load in the non-dominant hand so you can get your keys out of your pocket with the dominant hand. I know i do.
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I'm right handed, but both hands are about the same at deadhangs. It's a different matter with pull ups though; I can do more than twice as many with my right :-\
I carry the heaviest shopping bag with my right, and have a nightmare fumble for the keys on the doorstep.
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As far as i know the dominant side of the brain as far as co-ordination goes should have nothing to do with strength. in fact logically you could say its expected that the non-dominant side might be stronger. For example if you're right handed and carrying something heavy into your crib you're naturally likely to hold the heavy load in the non-dominant hand so you can get your keys out of your pocket with the dominant hand. I know i do.
True. As a parallel my right hand is probably a bit stronger, as my left hand is more dextrous, and I often use it for fiddling my nuts in when I'm hanging on.
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Thekettle - Last name kettle by any chance? Just interested as mine is.
Not sure which hand is best for dead hangs- pretty sure it is my dominant left hand- will check tonight.
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im stronger with dominand hand in basically every exercise, except on 90° lockoffs on a flat hold on my fingerboard. prolly its cos i made the holes not perfectly horizontal, resulting in a slight bend of the hold that makes my right hand slide down a bit.
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Thekettle - Last name kettle by any chance? Just interested as mine is.
Yes it is Mr K, and there's not may of us out there!
Some interesting theories.. I'm sequentially challenged when it comes to the door keys/baggage scenario, it ends with a reachy cross-torso pocket move at the front door, shortly before dropping said luggage.
With all muscular strength tests, the dominant (in my case left) hand is the clear winner, but its definately lagging behind on isometric finger strength. Maybe there's a thesis in there somewhere. Any more ideas welcome :-\
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I'm sequentially challenged when it comes to the door keys/baggage scenario, it ends with a reachy cross-torso pocket move at the front door, shortly before dropping said luggage. Any ideas welcome :-\
Put your house keys in your left trouser pocket :whistle:
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leave the keys in the lock.
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i wish i could deadhang on something else then a jug so i could join the thread.
BD
btw:if one hand is weaker, just train it some more :wank:. simple as that... (sorry i thougth it was called wanky skills instead of wonky skills)