UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: slackline on January 21, 2011, 04:54:53 pm
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Just stumbled across the following two articles which attempt to quantify climbing performance...
Mermier CM, Jeffrey M Janot1 JM, Parker DL, Swan JG (2000) Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance Br J Sports Med 34:359-365 (http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/34/5/359.full)
Watts PB (2004) Physiology of difficult rock climbing Euro J App Phys 91:361-372 (http://www.springerlink.com/content/5kkg52qx99xptu3v/fulltext.html)
Read and draw your own conclusions from their research.
Have added them to the wiki (http://www.ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Training_:_The_Science).
Perhaps collect other such articles here (and on the wiki of course).