UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: El Mocho on June 17, 2008, 10:32:06 am
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Good effort Graham, I keep thinking about going to clean routes down there but never get round to it. The last two times I have been down the things I tried were pretty bad (Autobahn - got up it by the skin of my teeth, and Midnight Summer Dream - failed) I did give M S D a clean afterwards so I think it is a climbable state now (the top was wet and dirty so I didn't climb that bit after cleaning)
I think the state of insitu gear is even more of an issue down in Pembroke and Cornwall as there is often a similar reliance on fixed gear which rots even quicker.
Maybe we need to start a cleaned/re-equiped thread:
Opium (great zawn, Bosi) is now clean(ish) and the pegs not replaced but unnecessary as they are easy to back up.
West face route (just to the L) pegs are stainless so in good condition and easy to back up (so maybe they should be taken out??)
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I've moved this post from the Chee Tor thread.
As suggested by El Mocho please use this thread to report cleaning and re-equipping carried out.
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I clean up Fishing Without A License on sunday (15/06/08). It's the 7c at the far right of The Embankment and needs a bit more popularity to keep the ivy at bay. It's short but climbs really well. powerful and fingery. It was midge hell yesterday eve, so best to wait for a breeze.
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That reminds me, I cleaned and did the next route right Barefoot in a Pool of Sharks back in May. Quite a worthwhile 7b+.
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Noticed on Rockfax that Tequila Mockingbird was cleaned up 15/6/08
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I cleaned this on sunday (15/06/08). It's the 7c at the far right of The Embankment and needs a bit more popularity to keep the ivy at bay. It's short but climbs really well. powerful and fingery. It was midge hell yesterday eve, so best to wait for a breeze.
I take it you were the guy on 'Fishing without a licence'. It was my head you nearly dropped a tree on while i was changing my shoes. :)
Rab and Al had a quick go on this yesterday.
The verdict was like you say, powerful.
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It's a good little route that.
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I take it you were the guy on 'Fishing without a licence'. It was my head you nearly dropped a tree on while i was changing my shoes. :)
Rab and Al had a quick go on this yesterday.
The verdict was like you say, powerful.
Sorry Mick, I got a bit carried away with the ivy removal and didn't notice you get covered in shit! I didn't put the route's name in my original post, it is as you say "fishing without a license".
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You did put the route name in your original thread title but it was lost when I merged your post with this thread. I have editted your original to include name now.
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It's a good little route that.
As is the little bouldery scoop to the left, 'Something Fishy'.
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Something Fishy is well and truly burried under a huge curtain of Ivy!
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A shame, its fun.
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Anyone got any info on The Ogre, clean or dirty, new or old bolts?
Gaz
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El MO gave Midsummernight's Dream a brush last week. Its not perfect, still a little dusty (and the webs will be back soon enough) but its clean enough to climb, even if you have no stamina. Top tat could do with replacing if anyone is doing it.
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Is this thread peak only? I gave Skyjack at Malham a bit of a brush and chalk the other week, was very dusty now clean. nice moves!!
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Vortex in Egerton has just been cleaned. May be of note to you Gaz if you haven't done it yet....
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Anyone got any info on The Ogre, clean or dirty, new or old bolts?
Gaz
Still old bolts I'm afraid and hasn't been cleaned in a while. If you fancy re-bolting it let me know and I can get you some PBF bolts etc
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I cleaned up Weedkiller the route at the Snore recently. Was very dusty, cobwebs everywhere - now chalked up and climbable....but still desparate! :lol:
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It appears that much re-bolting has been done at Rubicon. Nice new bolts in Zeke, Hot Fun, Too Old and Dangerous Brothers (plus a belay) and possibly others I've not seen.
Effort to whoever has done this.
Maybe this has been posted elsewhere and I've missed it?
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the lower off for reptile smile down portland needs some attention, the lower off is half worn through! :o
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the lower off for reptile smile down portland needs some attention, the lower off is half worn through! :o
Fucking toprapers.
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recent chee tor routes which i've cleaned a bit, generally whilst onsighting, or on the way down after an ascent, so they won't be immaculate, but should be perfectly climbable:
ceramic extension - cleanish; take something for a belay / lower at the top, i did leave a sling and a krab on a tree off left a bit, but couldn't find anything fixed right at the topo of the line.
snap dragon - given a decent brush, although its rained a fair bit since then so might be in need of a bit more of a scrub. failed onsight on some very slimy footholds. Has some really good (and quite hard!) climbing.
golden mile - is totally clean anyway, and absolutely brilliant. :)
whilst on the subject, Delta G and V2 at high tor are vastly underrated and both well worth going to do.
Anyone fancy giving Autobahn and / or the thing to its right a scrub?
anyone done Laughing?
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I've done Laughing. Normally I don't like hybrid trad/bolted/designer danger routes but thought Laughing was absolutely brilliant. Great rock, great climbing and the runout away from the bolt is really exciting/gripping. Ace!
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cheers Andy, moved away from the peak so might be a while before i get around to it now... but it looks great.
T
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whilst on the subject, Delta G and V2 at high tor are vastly underrated and both well worth going to do.
:bounce:Too ffing right and both not easy for the grade!
By the way, on another note, Mad Max and V2 both have 'trad' starts, then 'sport' route finishes, which is fine!
Looking at doing a new 'sport' start into both of them, to make completely sport alternatives to either route.
The new bit won't compromise the trad starts to either route- best of both worlds!
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I cleaned up Jive Turkey at the Tor on sunday. Its a nice 7b+ from the Weedkiller belay. Unpolished rock plus the bolts are in good condition. It just needed the cobwebs and dust removing and a bit of chalk on it. Stick clip the Weedkiller belay and yard up the rope to start. If you want to check out the moves on TR, traverse the Cream Team break leftwards from the Sardine belay, lower down Bullit the Blue Sky and put the pieces in on the way down. A nice change from Sardine!
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I cleaned and dusted off Rooster Booster pitch 2 recently and it climbs well, a little bit snappy in places but does not affect the quality of the climbing. A few of the bolts are a bit old but there are so many of them that there are no safety issues. The only thing I would do is clip the first bolt on Jive Turkey with a 4 foot sling to back up the first independent bolt after the Weedkiller belay as if this failed without being backed up, you might be close to the ground. The crux is just before it slabs out and is quite an intense sequence on sidepulls, crimps and a flat undercut. There is a gaston which would make the sequence easier but it is crumbling and needs glueing, I missed it out. The climb goes to the top of the crag, the moves leaving the Cream Team break are not easy and there would be some good whipper potential if you came off near the top. The belay is not great to be honest, I lowered off the dead stump down to the break and then lowered off the maillons. Probably 7c in reality, certainly nails for 7b+.
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I cleaned up Jive Turkey at the Tor on sunday. A nice change from Sardine!
Had a play on this yesterday Ted, i agree its not a bad route. However i got a bit confused at first as to where it went at the top! I think i went up The Exterminator instead! lol ;D Some of the rock is a bit snappy though, i pulled a couple of chunks off!
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Had a play on this yesterday Ted, i agree its not a bad route. However i got a bit confused at first as to where it went at the top! I think i went up The Exterminator instead! lol ;D Some of the rock is a bit snappy though, i pulled a couple of chunks off!
Cool Jon! Zippy says it should be erased from the history books as it has now been superceded by his direct finish so it is now just a linkup. For Jive Turkey when you get to the break you step right and finish up Bullit the Blue Sky which is quite tricky just before the belay so the line is effectively a zig-zag. Yes in places the rock quality leaves something to be desired but this is more than made up for by the position.
Is the Exterminator Zippy's new direct finish to Jive Turkey? Keith said it was 8a+ to link Weedkiller into Jive Turkey finishing up this new direct finish (and not stepping right and finishing as for Jive Turkey), sounds fair to me! Do you know where the Exterminator finishes as there is no belay at the break - do you traverse right a bit to the Bullit loweroff?
There is also Zippy's new route to the left of Weedkiller which is apparently easier than Weedkiller! Hmmm, more linkup possibilities...
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I recently cleaned Spanish Fly at Gardom’s. It was very wet so I couldn’t pull on to check I’d cleaned all the right bits. It was totally filthed up, can’t imagine it’s been climbed in a long time. The top wall is still a bit dirty but it looks easy enough for this not to matter too much. Have put gear beta on http://gritlist.wetpaint.com/page/E6+Peak+District (http://gritlist.wetpaint.com/page/E6+Peak+District) . Will probably need a couple of decent days to dry out or a strong wind. Looks very good!
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I wouldn't say that it should be erased from the history books. The top wall of the exterminator is a lot harder than jive turkey! Going from the magazine report on the route, it says that the top bit is probably 8a and the full route (from weedkiller) 8a+. If memory serves correctly i thought that the exterminator doesn't go to the ledge rest on weedkiller, but steps right just before this.? The route is heavily sika'd i think...
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Interesting, I didn't see that magazine report, I will try and see how it goes. I think Zippy at one stage last summer was trying to link Weedkiller into the black wall inbetween Jive Turkey and Crumblefish, what eventually became Ste Mac's new 8c starting up the old Brazilian project. I think this was abandoned when Steve succeeded on his direct 8c version. I think it would be very contrived not to go into the rest on Weedkiller when continuing up Jive Turkey. Perhaps you would not be allowed to use this rest if attempting Zippy's old project indirect start to the 8c. Certainly the rest that you are not 'allowed' to take on Waddage at the Chimes belay would be a lot less contrived!
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Zippy's 8a+ climbs Weedkiller then spans right into the black wall left of crumblefish. The direct start is 8c.
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Zippy's 8a+ climbs Weedkiller then spans right into the black wall left of crumblefish.
Thanks for clarifying Ru. The impression I got was that this was never actually climbed before Ste stepped in with the 8c.
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Dont know then. Zippy is about to email me the full list of all his variations on the crag for the guide, so I will divulge all when I get that.
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That reminds me of a situation involving Griffo, a mate of mine, travelling home on the night bus, sitting next to a "clockwork orange" nutjack. They struck up a conversation with the Griffster trying to maintain positivity with this loose cannon. Griffo was happily getting skooled when suddenly a question arose, something had piqued Griffo's interest. He needed more info, "Can you divulge?" he asked. The nutjack looked straight at him as though he had been asked to name all 12 reindeer. Seconds passed. Finally he replied "Yes, you can".
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Dont know then. Zippy is about to email me the full list of all his variations on the crag for the guide, so I will divulge all when I get that.
Excellent, it would be good to know what the score is with about all the variations on this bit of the crag. Look forward to it!
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Just an update for Bonjoy or whoever, i re-bolted a couple of routes down Cheedale last week. On Rhubarb buttress :- first two bolts on 'De Vine' (8a+) replaced. The rest are solid glue-ins. Also re-bolted the 7b+ to the left 'Me Tarzan' whilst i was there.
Their not in condition or anything, but at least they are ready for next year. If you like short bouldery routes like at Rubicon then 'De Vine' should be on your list. Nice looking route.
Cheers
Jon C
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:great: Nice one Jon.
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Bonjoy, re-bolted 'The Ogre' this afternoon. Looks wicked, although it will need a clean when it dries out. Looks quite hard too, big moves on small edges and undercuts. Have you also looked at 'Kumquat' on Chee Tor East? Supposed to be another 3* 8a+/8b. Looks very good.
Jon C
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Good effort. Did you like for like it, e.g. is still just 4 bolts and quite big runouts?
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Good effort. Did you like for like it, e.g. is still just 4 bolts and quite big runouts?
There's a couple of extras - one at the start & a dogging bolt at the crux. I like the look of Boobs as well, will be getting on that. Did it ever get a repeat? :-\
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Awesome, i've always wanted to get on The Ogre. Is it dry??
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I like the look of Boobs as well
you're only human.
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I like the look of Boobs as well
you're only human.
I knew someone would say that :lol: Its not dry at the moment bonjoy, but i shouldn't think it would take ages to dry though?
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The Ogre is a great route
I like the look of Boobs as well, will be getting on that. Did it ever get a repeat? :-\
At last! I've been trying to get people to try this for years, to no avail. Will be interested to know what you think (it should dry quicker than the Ogre, being a bit more open). Never heard of any repeats. Al Murray told me he'd found it 'very genetic'. I took this to mean he couldn't do it.
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Had a play on Boobs today Andy. Did all the moves ok, but didn't go for the redpoint cos it was bloody freezing! lol Like the style of climbing though, a bit like Long Tor Quarry. Found the last section to the lower-off the trickiest bit. Super technical footwork required. Will hopefully get back there when its slightly warmer! :-\
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I found the moves through the lower bulge (small right hand edge and little ear next to it, v. small feet?) the technical crux but the top (shared with Boo) is definitely the redpoint crux. I fell off there a few times on redpoint despite already having done Boo first go.
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On the grit side of things replaced the tat on the bolts and peg on 'Adam Smiths Invisible Hand'. Although the bolts are ancient they didn't seem to bad, and the climbing is ace.
Nice conversion from gritstone season stuff to Limestone season as it is essentialy a f7b grit arete!
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Whats the DL on that Douggy Hall route on (nettle butress?). had all the bolts stripped by G Hoey ages ago... E7 never knew alot about lime... tried this with the bolts just before they were tugged out,,, any repeats...
thought it was 8a (f)
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On the grit side of things replaced the tat on the bolts and peg on 'Adam Smiths Invisible Hand'. Although the bolts are ancient they didn't seem to bad, and the climbing is ace.
nice one. care to elaborate on the reliability of the bolts as far as you can? Or the difficulty level compared to, say, Mother's Pride? Fancy a go GU / flash and would like to know what i'd be letting my self in for....
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From what I remember the crux is next to the bolts so really more like a slump on to the rope, still bit cheeky higher up though......the crux move is amazing
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From what I remember the crux is next to the bolts so really more like a slump on to the rope, still bit cheeky higher up though......the crux move is amazing
True. The hardest section is passing the third bolt so you would just sag onto top bolt (and there are two more to slow you down if it rips!) Although I didn't bounce test them they did seem pretty good - they don't look like they are going to snap but I don't know how deep they go.
I hadn't looked at the moves when I replaced the tat so gave it a kinda flash attempt. Felt quite a hard move to get to clip the third bolt and I then wanted to down climb and realised I had got a bit high so lowered off. I then did it straight off the go after. If you can clip the 3rd from low/down climb I think the flash is well on. It is a little more comitting getting to the peg - you will actually fall onto the bolt rather than sag - the climbing is easier although still 6a or so.
The crux section is very nice, as is all the route.
Or the difficulty level compared to, say, Mother's Pride?
I onsighted Mothers Pride last week which was more of a battle for me (I was pumped stupid on the top and didn't really trust the pegs that much) whilst second go on Adams it felt ok (although obviously I didn't flash it!) Also did Perplexity at the weekend and it felt the easiest of the three.
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I think a couple of people have on-sighted it in the past but I am struggling to remeber who.
Anyone tried Winters Grip, looks good with some pro on it as well, think Fatdoc did it in the 80's, one for on-sighting as well I rekon
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Graham Hoey told me there was a very good hand-placed blade on Winter's Grip - or maybe two? He thought it was a pretty steady lead with those.
Such an idea would never have occurred to me in 1984, which is why I soloed it - which felt pretty spicy (no mats in those days). Mind you, headpointing hadn't been invented then either, though that is effectively what I did....!
It was a classic cold, crisp gritstone day, with FA's of Quality Street, Winter's Grip and The Crypt Trip all going down.
Neil
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In baltic conditions this morning I cleaned 'clock people' at millstone. It was so cold I nearly lost my fingers. I couldn't decide weather to clean this or go to crag x so I am kinda hopeing it was wet there as it would make me feel better about the state my gear and rope is in now (ie covered in shit)
Cleaned the bottom half pretty well, but just the holds on the top section (so if you drag your foot when moving it will be filthy) but it was proper raining at the time and all very green so it will prob need a quick brush when it is dry (it would probably benefit from a better clean to the top section as well but I doubt if I can be arsed)
Looks pretty safe and technical, take your rps.
I was thinking about cleaning the E7 further left - the fall but don't bounce one - as it sounds classic but I seem to remember it is in a similar condition to the clock people wall...
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FBSF - I headpointed winter's grip sometime in 2002 I think. There's 2 slots that take hand placed pegs - #2 knifeblades (the CAMP ones, Black Diamond are too thin) are what you need. I climbed it starting on the right (as have others I've talked to) but I seem to remember discussing it with Neil on UKC a few years ago and he stayed on the left all the way.
It's safe and has nice moves the way I did it, can't comment on what it's like on the other side though.
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I was thinking about cleaning the E7 further left - the fall but don't bounce one - as it sounds classic but I seem to remember it is in a similar condition to the clock people wall...
The Bad and the Beautiful...
The best route Ive ever done.
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hasn't something broken on bad and beautiful or am I imagining reading something to that effect?
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FBSF - I headpointed winter's grip sometime in 2002 I think. There's 2 slots that take hand placed pegs - #2 knifeblades (the CAMP ones, Black Diamond are too thin) are what you need. I climbed it starting on the right (as have others I've talked to) but I seem to remember discussing it with Neil on UKC a few years ago and he stayed on the left all the way.
It's safe and has nice moves the way I did it, can't comment on what it's like on the other side though.
Yes, I did climb it on the left, which felt the obvious way to me back then. I seem to remember hanging a small crimp out left, and slapping several times up the upper arete with my right, until a final slap brought me back into balance, and able to let go of the crimp without instantly barndooring towards Lawrencefield..... I've some old school pics of the FA somewhere - resplendent in hairy green Helly trousers!
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Just thought I may as well flag up that I gave Scoop de Grace (Running Hill Pits) a good brushing yesterday. The bottom of the scoop (hold that Sam is reaching for in the photos in the back of the Rockfax) is still a bit green, but it looks like the sort of stuff that you need a wire brush to get off? And I'm not sure if I'd want to do that...
Anyway, amazing feature and perfect for this time of year as it faces north west - conditions were mint yesterday and the whole of the quarry incredibly dry.
I didn't get further than struggling to hold the slopers in the bottom of the groove. :'( Presumably you use these, plus stiff boots and technique to get those decent edges up and left, then rock back right into the scoop? Anyone?
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Nearly ended up there myself yesterday too. Ended up at a very hot Stanage End instead :'(.
If you soak a green hold with a wet rag before brushing you can sometimes clean that sort of green off with a plastic brush.
Which reminds me I cleaned Shredded Feet a nice John Allen E3 6b/f7a at Black Rocks about a month ago.
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The Scoop de grace photos in rockfax are of a duff sequence starting on the right. The way Sam did it started on the left, very reachy for us (though shouldn't be a problem for you Tom), then a couple of stern pulls lead to a good hold left of the bottom of the scoop. The photo on my UKC gallery shows the move after, I don't think you use the slopers in the base of the scoop for hands at all, maybe for feet though. There was talk of a hold coming off a few years back, don't know whether it has been done since. Good venue, did you do much else?
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The Scoop de grace photos in rockfax are of a duff sequence starting on the right. The way Sam did it started on the left, very reachy for us (though shouldn't be a problem for you Tom), then a couple of stern pulls lead to a good hold left of the bottom of the scoop. The photo on my UKC gallery shows the move after, I don't think you use the slopers in the base of the scoop for hands at all, maybe for feet though. There was talk of a hold coming off a few years back, don't know whether it has been done since. Good venue, did you do much else?
Ah - that makes sense! I thought that might be the case as the slopers on the bottom of the groove are terrible and the crimps on the left small, but positive. I was trying it from the right though with a big bounce off the deck to that good edge, but couldn't then work my way leftwards without getting drawn into the bottom of the scoop. Must go back. I just checked the photo of yours on UKC this morning...
Yep, great little spot. Did the E4 direct past the spanner which has a couple of stern pulls low down and a new peg. The E5 immediately left of scoop with a big move at the top - v well protected by small wires and even though it's morpho, felt soft for the grade. then the classic calamity crack which is fab. plus a few other e1/2s - a fine day out a great rock temps when I suspect others were struggling in the sun :ang:
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Nettle Butttress down t' Dale saw a good going over today. Martin Daley rebolted Toys for the Boys last night and cleaned it up today. Me and Brian Hall cleaned all the easier routes to the right which are really good; a couple of mates cleaned Subterra and me and Lee Proctor cleaned Stung which I'll rebolt with Martin next week.
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Thought I may as well post that Reproduction on High Tor had it's nut placements cleaned out very recently. Great route, which has good gear between longish runouts (you will want to back up the thread on Tales which is lookin v old). A must for anyone that's done Tales/Supersonic. And it's easier/less harrowing than Bastille.
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Gigantic in Wilton 1 really clean and chalked now.
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Pricked By A Pulse E3/4 5c *** @ Pen Tyrau, Arenning Fawr, Meirionnydd - now in good climbable condition. Lower wall has had all holds well cleaned of moss etc etc and is totally fine.
Wilderness Grit E3 6a ***, Later That Night E3 5c *** and Araf Nawr E3 5c ** @ Y Grisau, The Rhinnogs, Meirionnydd - all cleaned and well chalked at time of posting.
All excellent routes BTW.
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Nettle Butttress down t' Dale saw a good going over today. Martin Daley rebolted Toys for the Boys last night and cleaned it up today. Me and Brian Hall cleaned all the easier routes to the right which are really good; a couple of mates cleaned Subterra and me and Lee Proctor cleaned Stung which I'll rebolt with Martin next week.
Went on TftB yesterday. What a great route! Could be best 7c+ in the Wye Valley I reckon, perfect rock, excellent climbing in a really nice setting. Big thanks to all involved in cleaning/re-bolt here! But what does 'Moon Bridge II' mean?
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I'll pass on your thanks to Martin. He cleaned and rebolted the 7c/7c+ to the left of Stung yesterday too. Not sure what you mean by Moon Bridge II????
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It's a mystery to me too, someone had scratched it into the grey dust at the bottom of TftB. I thought it might have some cryptic significance. Guess it was someone else.
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Sounds like a case for Jack Black and Silver. (http://en.wikipehttp://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=post;topic=9392.50;num_replies=70dia.org/wiki/Jack_Black_(Viz))
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I noticed Esmerelda 7c+ ** had been re-bolted too. How is it? Looks pretty good.
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Martin cleaned and rebolted Esmerelda on Saturday and had a go Sunday. I'll get him to come on here using my logon and he can give you the details... he mentioned some confusion over the start.
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Nettle Butttress down t' Dale saw a good going over today. Martin Daley rebolted Toys for the Boys last night and cleaned it up today. Me and Brian Hall cleaned all the easier routes to the right which are really good; a couple of mates cleaned Subterra and me and Lee Proctor cleaned Stung which I'll rebolt with Martin next week.
Went on TftB yesterday. What a great route! Could be best 7c+ in the Wye Valley I reckon, perfect rock, excellent climbing in a really nice setting. Big thanks to all involved in cleaning/re-bolt here! But what does 'Moon Bridge II' mean?
There is a nice crimpy wall climb at sector Odyssey Kalymnos called Moon Bridge. It goes at 7c+. Maybe done by the same person?
Cheers
Tim
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That sounds plausible. Probably the same person who put tick marks labelled L1, L2, L3 and L4 on the route. I'm on the lookout for a one handed climber wearing Mr Magoo specs!
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That'll be Martin - he's as blind as a bat. Still no excuse for airfix instructions oin the rock.. :spank:
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Ooops, I brushed them off. Hope he doesn't get lost :P .
To be honest I found it amusing rather than offensive.
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I shouldn't worry, he's getting married this Saturday so will be 2 stones heavier in three months and not even get off the ground.
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Jon - how were the other routes looking on Nettle Buttress? E.g. Summer Wine? Overgrown etc or have they been getting some action too? Ta.
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They were dry but didn't look to have had recent traffic. It's a clean crag by Cheedale standards and the unclimbed stuff didn't look too bad and has little plant life on route (top outs might be worse).
Am considering replacing Stuffed Badger's two shit bolts (next to each other) with one decent bolt.
On Summer Wine I couldn't see the peg mentioned in an old guide but the stuck wire mentioned was in place.
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Did some bits at Nettle Buttress on Monday:
• Cut back Sycamores from the base of Major Incompetence and Summer Wine
• Stuck hold back on Esmeralda which had fallen off at the weekend. Note: there is a biggish lump of looseness at the base of the top arete/groove by the last bolt. I’ll take it off next time I’m there, but feel free to do it for me. It’ll probably make the route a touch harder, but still soft at 7c I think.
• Cleaned Summer Wine and removed the ancient stuck wire. Looks a great route with no looseness and ok gear (small-medium cams and tiny wires). The peg looks in good nick (usual caveats apply). I left a sling and crab on the tree as a lower off.
• Cleaned Stuffed Badger, a good looking Moffat E5 up the hanging scoop just left of Summer Wine. Replaced the thread in the first break and replaced the pair of ancient bolts with a 12mm glue in. The traverse in at the bottom was too wet to clean properly, leaving three options for anyone trying the route in its current condition:- clip the second bolt on Long Dead Train to protect yourself slithering across the wet bit, do the direct start or traverse in from the start of Summer Wine. Lowers off from same sling as SW.
Both the E5s looked excellent and un-gnarly, I’ll definitely be going back to give them a go.
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Nice work Jonbonjovi.... :thumbsup:
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• Stuck hold back on Esmeralda which had fallen off at the weekend. Note: there is a biggish lump of looseness at the base of the top arete/groove by the last bolt. I’ll take it off next time I’m there, but feel free to do it for me. It’ll probably make the route a touch harder, but still soft at 7c I think.
I think that should read soft at 7c+, though it might have felt hard as it was my warm-up?
Good effort on your work Jon, are you the only peak slime guardian who's investing time in sorting out the unclimbed unclean classics down there, or should I wad others too?
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:whistle:
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Falling Down of course. Martin re-equipped TFTBs and Esmeralda, but I don’t think he’s a UKBer. JC and Belperpete do lots of cleaning and re-equipping. He recently sorted out DeVine, another (7b+) route on Rhubarb Buttress and The Ogre on Chee Tor. Pig (aka Kristian Klemmow) has done more than his fair share of re-equipping on peak lime, though not so much this year as he’s just had a kid. Could do with a few more hands on deck really.
I thought 7c for Esmeralda with the kneebar trickery, but as we couldn’t redpoint with the hold missing it’s hard to know for sure. The non-kneebar way looked harder, maybe 7c+. Hopefully will get back there tomorrow and get a better idea.
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He recently sorted out DeVine, another (7b+) route on Rubarb Buttress
You mean 8a+ bonjoy? :)
I visited Nettle Buttress for the first time yesterday and was well impressed! Unfortunately in this weather there was a massive amount of dampness on a lot of routes. Tried Toy's but that was minging damp. Esmeralda and the 7b+ to the right both look dope though. Good work on re-equipping peeps. :thumbsup:
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Has anyone been on/done Devine ?
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Yeah i did it about a month ago. I would definately recommend it. The moves are fantastic and its got the best mono move on it, wicked stuff ;D Its probably soft for the grade - 8a/+.
Only problem is the slab at the bottom is usually shitty and wet.
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OK cheers
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He recently sorted out DeVine, another (7b+) route on Rubarb Buttress
You mean 8a+ bonjoy? :)
Bad wording on my part. I meant you'd re-equipped DeVine and the 7b+ next to it.
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I'm about to head out to Cheedale now. At the risk of asking an unanswerable question, do you think Nettle Buttress will be affected by condensation? I suppose if it is then I'll head along to Chee Tor. Interested to see that buttress anyway as I've never even looked at it...
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Nettle buttress was fine last week in not disimilar weather. Surprised to hear it was damp yesterday.
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Nettle buttress was fine last week in not disimilar weather. Surprised to hear it was damp yesterday.
I was with JC yesterday and it really was uncomfortably humid, to the extent that, as we dropped down to the Wye (from Wormhill)
clouds of water vapour, trapped by the trees hung over the river. You could have filmed one of those 'Predator' type American movies, where the heroes
are all muscley men, with camo paint on, headbands and big guns. Oh and they also growl in really deep voices when they talk.
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Strangely, Dense has suddenly got all keen to go to Cheedale.
http://www.youtube.com/v/ZFYxCIr-Byo (http://www.youtube.com/v/ZFYxCIr-Byo)
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I'm about to head out to Cheedale now.
How was it this evening then T_B?
Should I head down there tomo or will it be sloppy?
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:P Sorry, forgot to mention the tight, sweat stained armless vest and the wrist-band :whistle:
Oh my god, might try again down there tomorrow, myself!! See ya Dense!
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Belperpete totally on the money. If only I'd checked back on UKB before heading out...
I wear spectacles. It was like being in a sauna. Got 3/4 of the way up Summer Wine, toothbrushing as I went, with glasses steaming up. Got pumped on sweaty/dusty rock, couldn't get any decent gear in above the peg. Reversed a bit and told my girlfriend to take the rope in tight on the peg. Sure enough the gear after the peg all pulled, I fell slowly and landed in a heap on the ground. A few nettle stings. She was tied down, but had some rope burn. I think we might be going sport climbing in a couple of weeks, rather than a Brit trad extravaganza :-[
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Effort Tom! Its no wonder these things are neglected... hardly representative of UK trad though?
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yeah, it's a funny place Cheedale. I remember having a similar hard time on Autobahn on Chee Tor many moons ago. That dusty stuff somehow means you can't just pull and go. Add in the completely ridiculous levels of humidity and one asks the question "what the f*ck am I doing here?". Stuffed badger to the left looks good with a shiny new bolt in it ;) good effort jon et al kick starting the crag again. 3 teams there last night.
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I wear spectacles. It was like being in a sauna. Got 3/4 of the way up Summer Wine, toothbrushing as I went, with glasses steaming up. Got pumped on sweaty/dusty rock, couldn't get any decent gear in above the peg. Reversed a bit and told my girlfriend to take the rope in tight on the peg. Sure enough the gear after the peg all pulled, I fell slowly and landed in a heap on the ground. A few nettle stings. She was tied down, but had some rope burn. I think we might be going sport climbing in a couple of weeks, rather than a Brit trad extravaganza :-[
Oops, sorry if my beta/cleaning was duff (pass that on to Rachel)! The gear looked fiddly but ok, but then I didn't have a rack with me to try any placements. I'm surprised the old stuck wire placement didn't take a decent piece (rock 2?). Friends in the flake no good? Looks are in this case decieving I guess. Used to get E4 in On Peak Rock!
I know what you mean about Cheedust. Virtually unbrushable and virtually frictionless, not what you want in jungle conditions.
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Cheedust. Virtually unbrushable and virtually frictionless
is this the same species as cragxdust?
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I got past the peg and what I suspect was the placement with the stuck wire (looked worn), it just seemed really flared? To be honest, I took just one look at that and decided it wouldn't take anything. Tried the other tiny cracks around it and couldn't get anything in. Same with a small crack to the right. On the left, in that flake, I got a cam but knew it was shit as a) it's limestone and b) it's dusty. Placed that, and an RP above that was also in a weirdly shallow crack and seemed shit. Basically, if i'd got one decent piece in I could have gone for it, as I did reach a good hold above the flake. But I knew the gear I had in was totally crap. I spent a fair bit of time faffing around and getting more and more pumped. The cam held momentarily before popping (as predicted). It might be that through the mist of my spex, that flared looking thing was actually the key piece? My own fault for getting on it in the cons, though we did reflect on the wise m'eering decisions of a) tieing down Rach and b) me not going for it! I reckon the route just needs one more set of paws on it and it'll be fine. Same deal last summer when I cleaned Tequila, the feet felt crap until they'd had a bit o traffico.
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Much as I hate insitu wires I can now sort of see the logic behind it, if that's the key piece but the worn placement won't take repeated use. I'm still keen (though also gripped) to give it a go. I'll bring my double set of ballnuts....
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I'm lovin this (as well as, I'm sure any of the old traddies (like me) who might be reading this!)
If we'd had t'internet 24 years ago, when i first led this, I'd have been posting the same comments.
Yup, that's trad for you and especially nowadays, when some brilliant routes, like Summer Wine, rarely get done.
it may only be E4, but has always been afforded a lot of respect at that grade.
Try calomine lotion on the nettle stings and good on ya for trying it!
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Yowzers...
When me and Brian climbed and cleaned all the 'easy' sport routes to the right they all felt about 7a until we'd given them a really hard scrub so I know what you mean about just not being able to pull, step and go.
The Nook next anyone?
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The problem with the Nook is the two large sycamores which are overshading the crag making it very dank and slow drying. We need to persaude the WDT to cut them down (which wouldn't happen till the autumn) or allow us to cut them down.
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At Nettle Buttress the top of Esmeralda has now had its loose blocks removed. There are still a few little chunks of loose stuff up there and it could do with a brush. It makes the top a bit harder but not a lot. With the slots at the break dry the crux is easier and is basically a static jug to jug pull if you’re tall enough or a bit of a pop for average heights. I’m not sure the route is any harder than 7b.
Ed Brown and JC both linked the roof of Esmeralda with the top bit of Stung. This is a pretty obvious link up, taking in the best bits of both routes, dispensing with the chossy arbitrary finish on the former and the huge ledgy rest on the latter. Seems like the premier way up this section of rock to me. I’d guess it was 7b+, does that sound right Jon?
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I thought Stung was 7b+? My hardest redpoint to date! Can't see how taking the rest out and adding a harder roof wouldn't make it harder?
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Laughing At The Rain @ Cowdale was clean last night, I finished the job by de-planting and scrubbing the very final holds. Good condition then, unfortunately I suspect the Rain Is Laughing At Us now. Despite appearances it seems like a fine route for the bouldering gent or (or dame), very bouldery start then stylish easy jug-pulling above, very well bolted.
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Have replaced the thread on the top pitch of Menopause. Hardly crucial, but should encourage more folk - very good and a great hard finish for Our Father.
Also cut loads of redundant tat off in this area.
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I’d guess it was 7b+, does that sound right Jon?
Not too sure really, something like 7b+/7c? :shrug: Brilliant climbing though!
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I thought Stung was 7b+? My hardest redpoint to date! Can't see how taking the rest out and adding a harder roof wouldn't make it harder?
I'm not sure the roof is that much harder than Stung when the slots are dry and you get a shake out on a huge hold before pressing on into Stung. But haven't done Stung for years so not sure how much difficulty that bit adds, so 7b+ or 7c depending on that I guess. To me Esmeralda with its original finish feels on a par with Brachiation Dance which is at the bottom of 7b+.
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Have done the linkup version now and reckon it just about warrants 7c. Very good though, needs a name, Esmerunga?
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Probably stretching the topicality (?) of this thread, but climbed and cleaned a rotten fixed wire from Tales of the Riverbank in Dovedale. Not so sure of it's 3 star 'classic' status (remember it from Cragg's 100 Classic Limestone routes in the UK?!). One for the connoisseur. You can back up the rotten peg at the start with RPs. The E5 to the right on the other hand does look like it relies on fixed mank.
Eye of the Tiger looks as though it needs 2 new threads and the 2 fixed wires removed. Considered doing it (the cleaning bit, not the climbing), but it would take a little while to construct a decent belay at the top to ab from, and, as this was a rare visit to Dovedale...
Goes into the shade at 3pm and was still dry even after it had hosed down on saturday evening.
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doesnt Ilam have an ab station, bits of tat or something, on the top?
edit: it has a chain belay
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doesnt Ilam have an ab station, bits of tat or something, on the top?
Yeah, but they are positioned above the E2 groove to the left of Eye. Have to say the whole of the top of Ilam Rock seems a lot less stable than it used to be. I'm sure that's just me getting old and paranoid, but I had to launch about a shoe box sized block off from right where the ab station is that had decided to exfoliate itlsef.
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I did the E3 crack at the back (Wrong Edge?) the other week. It's great, but the last 20 feet or so is a bit rubbly. Not badly so, but it just turns it into a great route into something slightly esoteric, in some ways. If it wasn't Ilam rock I'd say put a bolt and chain lower off at the top of the good rock, although it would be a shame to miss the summit experience on the rock itself, which is particularly fine.
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The E5 to the right on the other hand does look like it relies on fixed mank.
Which route do you mean, Tom?
(I quite enjoyed Tales, but I suppose it was a route of its time...)
Neil
Grimer - have you done Easter Island? How that disintegrating series of vegetated ledges ever made it into a rock climbing guidebook, let alone Extreme Rock, I'll never know. Gladiator is fun, tho'...
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Gladiator is hard! I remember the start being grim, then another hard move high up to move right.
Just dug out the guide to check, turns out I'd crossed out the stars and written 'crap'!
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'Crap'; 'Fun'; 'Hard'...
It's all the same thing, isn't it...?
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Which route do you mean, Tom?
Jungleland.
I actually quite enjoyed all but the final summit mushroom (of shattered limestone) on The Wong Edge.
Contrary to JB, neither Bob or I thought there was a 6a move on Gladiator (maybe the step round the arete high up), though it is sustained and pumpy for sure. Pull the 5'8 card again JB for the move round the arete ;)
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Hi Neil, Re Easter Island, I'm not sure what I did. I climbed the arete following my nose, then swung up the steep diagonal flake at half height. I think that's a combo of 2 routes at about E1/2 5c?
anyway, off topic :)
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neither Bob or I thought there was a 6a move on Gladiator (maybe the step round the arete high up), though it is sustained and pumpy for sure.
I'll play the pumped card. I thought the start was quite goey too though...
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Rebolted Unleashing the Wild Physique 8a *** at the Cheedale Cornice today. Nice 12mm resins rather than the mixed bag of ancient crap that was there before. It's perfectly dry (pretty much always is, unlike the most of the routes here), clean, always shady and totally brilliant, get to it!
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Cleaned No Light at Nettle Buttress last night. It's the Gabe Reagan E3 to the right of Toys For The Boys that was looking a bit sorry for itself. Not climbed it yet but it looks great. Probably still quite dusty but should be climbable at the grade.
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The Ogre 8a*** at Chee Tor. JC re-bolted it in winter, I went there today and cleaned it up. It was a big job so hopefully it'll see enough traffic to avoid having to clean it again. Looks brill, i'll be heading back to try soon. One hold was wet but looked raggable. Will still need the odd hold cleaning as I didn't try the moves so only brushed the general area and anything obvious.
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Have replaced the thread on the top pitch of Menopause. Hardly crucial, but should encourage more folk - very good and a great hard finish for Our Father.
Also cut loads of redundant tat off in this area.
Hi JB
I was climbing on Windy Buttress last night and noticed some of the places where you have removed tat. Unfortunately I think you have removed some crucial threads from the recent major new route between Scoop Wall and Our Father!
This is a GG E5 (6a, I think), from c.2002, which starts as for SW, but moves out into the small groove almost immediately, and then, with a bit more independence, up the open scoop between SW & OF, to arrive at the left side of the OF cave.
Now, (once you stop laughing ;)), I admit that this probably isn't the most important new addition to Peak Limestone in recent years, but it was something different to play on. And if like me you have been beavering in Stoney obscurity since 1981, there are not many new things left to go at - hence it had been on my provisional list...
Any more thoughts on these particular threads, now you understand why they were there...?!
Neil
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I took one piece of tat off that line because it was 70% worn through - it looked absolutely ancient. It was on a peg I think - I didn't touch that bar giving it a tap to check it wasn't death.
There was also a thread just right of the first roof on Scoop Wall. I got rid of that because it was within reach of Scoop wall and looked very weak.
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Steve Crowe looks to have cleaned up two high quality looking E6's at Kilnsey. 8)
WISE BLOOD (E6 6B**) looks a stunning line and climbing. (can you confirm Neil F?)
EXPONENTIAL EXHAUSTION (E6/7 6B***) looks pretty well protected, with a superb line and rock.
Get those cakes whilst they're still hot...
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Wiseblood looks great but had a waterfall running down it yesterday!
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Wiseblood looks great but had a waterfall running down it yesterday!
;D
Ha - go with the flow, I'm on the grit today, and the conditions are better than just great.
What were you saying about Thors Jon? ;)
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Birdmen (E5) at Kilnsey was cleaned as far as the new lower-off on Rubble yesterday and a thread replaced near the top. The top section and second pitch are still very overgrown and probably not worth the effort. Saw that Picnic at Hanging Rock (E5 6b) to the left of Exponential Exhaustion has also been cleaned and has had it threads replaced. Looks like a good route.
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Cordless Madness 7b+ (and Cosmopolitan 7b) at the Cheedale Cornice cleaned and re-equipped. Top runout on Cosmo needs a clean still (it was wet)
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Aberration, 7c+ The 2 pegs after the Gonads belay have been replaced with 2 bolts and a lower off added below the top. It doesn't add much to the dificullty but does mean it feels like the route goes somewhere now.
The same lower off could also be used for Gonads if another bolt or two were added to the top of this (holes are already there for staples)
I noticed a random bolt with an orange hanger between the upper section of Aberration and the Minos/Celebration finish - just to the right of the ledge after the upper crux of Minos. It looks newish, theres lots of drill dust under the placement. I'm not sure what that is intended for but it coud be used to link the gonads belay over to the Minos/Celebration one? :shrug:
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Metal Mickey, the 8b on the far left of kilnsey is all cleaned up and i ve added a another bolt(with help from steve crowe) to the middle section.
J
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Metal Mickey, the 8b on the far left of kilnsey is all cleaned up and i ve added a another bolt(with help from steve crowe) to the middle section.
J
Well done Jordan, seems to be a very worthwhile route / problem. Tough for the grade no?
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Metal Mickey, the 8b on the far left of kilnsey is all cleaned up and i ve added a another bolt(with help from steve crowe) to the middle section.
J
Well done Jordan, seems to be a very worthwhile route / problem. Tough for the grade no?
Aye not much higher than your average highball really!! Quite tough, seems solid 8b. Have you been on yet?
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Although probably of local interest only the lower off at the top of Prognosis and it's neighboring routes at Pic Tor has been replaced. I also cleaned and removed any veg from both Prognosis and Neurosis. Both climb nicely and are worth doing if your in the area and fancy a quick tick, or as a handy warm up for High Tor.
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or as a handy warm up for High Tor.
..or Lorry Park Quarry.
Nice work.
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Anyone else climbed Stuffed Badger (E5 6b) on Nettle Buttress yet this year? We've brushed it some more and cleaned out some gear placements in the groove. It's good to go now and well worth doing. The first break may still be a bit damp but can be dried out with a rag and chalk if needed. Good RPs protect the easier upper groove and these can be placed from a no hands rest. Same lower off as Summer Wine. Thanks a lot BonJoy for replacing the bolt on this.
Summer Wine (E5 6a) has had a few ascents now over the past few weeks, so is as clean as it's ever likely to get. Easier climbing but feels a bit spicier than Badger as the crucial wires look good but I wouldn't describe them as 'bomber'.
We also brushed the Eve Syndrome (E5 6c), which is a right hand finish to Summer Wine. There are still a couple of wet holds that seep before the crux that may need to be dried out first. After the peg on summer wine, it is protected by a bolt at the crux and a peg higher up and feels more like a sport route to lead, with wires only needed for the first break.
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Great stuff. Good to hear about these getting done. Was concerned Tom's epic might have put people off!
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Cordless Madness and Cosmopolitan at The Cheedale Cornice which were re bolted a few weeks back are now full dry and are clean and chalked. Unleashing is properly dry again now.
Boo over on Chee Tor is now also clean and chalked and got a rare ascent from Mr Mawson yesterday.
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I'm amazed that ascents of Boo are rare. This is a three star classic that stays basically clean and seepage free. What's wrong with people?
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Cordless Madness and Cosmopolitan at The Cheedale Cornice which were re bolted a few weeks back are now full dry and are clean and chalked...
Are any of the Cornice warm-ups dry Jon? I'd like to have a crack at Cosmopolitan, but always found it very fingery, and much too hard for a warm up - and you don't get very long in the evenings now...
Thanks
Neil
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Andy - Boo having half as many bolts as most similar length sport routes may have something to do with it.
Neil - Clarion Call and Martial Music are probably just about dry enough to climb but will need a good scrub. I usually use the two 7as on the far right as warm ups instead, one is called Further Adventures in Greendale, can't recall the name of the other. They're almost always dry and clean (ish).
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Andy - Boo having half as many bolts as most similar length sport routes may have something to do with it.
Mmm., I suppose so, even so ... Mind you there's always Boobs, that's better bolted ;)(I'm starting to sound like Nik and his proverbial wall!)
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Oi, I heard that :)
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Boobs was well chalked, someone must have been on it recently. Is Theology any good, has it had an ascent since a certain fat boy broke a hold?
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Theology was worthwhile, really nice position and mostly good rock. Don't know of any reascents, I would have thought it was worth a look.
Sorry Nik.
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Sorry Nik.
No worries, I deserved it :)
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Anyone else think we sould have a "Has Nik's Wall had a repeat yet?" thread, then it can be contained in its own little Room 101?
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Maybe we should start a blog with an RSS feed, so everyone can be kept up to date on the level of unrepeatedness? Text alerts to phones?
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How many levels of unrepeatedness are there? I'd have expected only 2, although maybe a repeat with an indirect start could be level 1.5?
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I haven't even mentioned it this time!
(sounds like a good idea though :))
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Anyone else think we sould have a "Has Nik's Wall had a repeat yet?" thread, then it can be contained in its own little Room 101?
Could we have a similar thread where Slackers can make recommendations for free alternative operating systems as well? ;)
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Anyone else think we sould have a "Has Nik's Wall had a repeat yet?" thread, then it can be contained in its own little Room 101?
Could we have a similar thread where Slackers can make recommendations for free alternative operating systems as well? ;)
What, you mean like this one (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12096.0.html) ;)
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Re-bolted the old Ben Moon route Culloden at Tideswell dale today. Old-skool 8a+.
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Great. This needed doing. Was it dry?
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The large pocket before the crux was slightly damp, but you could dry it with a towel. The rest of it was dry.
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BEESTON TOR
I have replaced the Abseil at the holly and near enough like for like tat on The Beest.
I may also of done the tat on Principle of Moments. (Just did what I could reach on the way down)
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Just done lots of cleaning at Rivelin Quarries, see this thread for details:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12998.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12998.0.html)
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BLACK ROCKS
Nipped in to Black Rocks this afternoon to make the most of this shitty weather we're having. I cleaned up the three routes on The Block, which for those who can only skim read are, in bold:
Angel's Share
Velvet Silence
Jumpin' On A Beetle
I used a very soft bristled brush and was constantly rinsing it off in a bucket of water, it worked very well. I could have cleaned the whole slab top-to-toe but opted to clean only the already brushed holds plus the first section of the top-outs which were filthy. I know this will be of some interest to at least a few who have expressed an interest in these routes - AndyB and Rocket Man to name but one and a half. Squeak yer boots fellas!
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Cleaned and climbed a random old snippet at Froggat.
Roman Orgy E4 6b - Double arete/pillar highball at base of gully between Tody's and Three Pebble. Old John Allen route, makes a half decent highball 6B+/6C. Still a bit scrittly but would settle with a few ascents.
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Re-bolted the old Ben Masterson route Culloden at Tideswell dale today. Old-skool 8a+.
Who told me it was 8b, or have I been misinformed?
Or did Ben do it and call it so as an example of the Scots getting stuffed by the Brits ? I kind of forget... :-\
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It used to get 8b yes and it was Ben Moon who did the first ascent. It had been Ben Masterson's project, hence the name.
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That figures. Thanks.
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Thanks to all the recent tree clearance work under Cratcliffe it didn’t take long to fill out the nasty gap in the landing under Chess Boxer with some stray logs. With the new decent pad platform it gives an excellent highball 7a+, as well as allowing Babu Yagu (the 7b LH start up the obvious ramp) to be topped out without major peril.
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BLACK ROCKS
Nipped in to Black Rocks this afternoon to make the most of this shitty weather we're having. I cleaned up the three routes on The Block, which for those who can only skim read are, in bold:
Angel's Share
Velvet Silence
Jumpin' On A Beetle
I used a very soft bristled brush and was constantly rinsing it off in a bucket of water, it worked very well.
Props to Nige for this - the slab was in the best nick I've ever known it on saturday. And with seven pads and the new sequence on Jumpin', it was all feeling almost easy... someone needs to do one of the hard projects on this block and drag it back to the future.
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I should add the tree clearance at Cratcliffe has also resulted in a fine looking new route between Suicide Wall and Savage Messiah. E4/5 6b, new guide out of date before its even back from the printers...
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Not my work, but worth noting, is that Creme de la Creme in Yarncliffe Quarry is in mint condition. There has been some tree clearance beneath which opens it up, and someone had definately been to work on it as it was pretty clean and chalked up. Good one to go and get ticked after work or if its really windy elsewhere in the Peak. A real quality route, bold bouldery start then safe with one more hard move past a ring peg. Good effort whoever is responsible. :thumbsup:
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Hammerboy I guess...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=402398 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=402398)
The tree clearance has rather scuppered the descent for the boulder problem start mind. You have to drop off now.
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the Lovely Charrlotte in stanworth quarry, around e7 6b. Now clean and chalked and ready for an onsight. The peg still looks okish and should hold a fall.
Due to access issues only go out of Biffas working hours. Weekends and after 5 in the week. Wear camo.....
Also at wilton one, lazy friday(e4 5c) and the hacker(e4 6b) are clean and chalked .
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The Lovely Charlotte e7 6b (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEvYJjNe0Hg&feature=channel#)
A not too clear video of The Lovely Charlotte, gives you some idea what its like.
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looks like a great route. Thank god for the mute button though, its nearly as bad as lincolns musical additions to climbing footage.
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At The Cutaway, Pen Trywyn:
Half Man, Half Beard 7a, The Amazing Bearded Lady 7b+, Rock Lobster 8a, Rodney God and the Oral Twins 8a, John Paul and the Vatican 7 7c, Who Framed Roger Rabbi 7b+.
All now re-equipped with resin bolts and lower-offs.
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Forgot to mention, please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund - http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/ (http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/) ;)
Limestone wiki here - http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/ (http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/)
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Boldness Through Ignorance, Cows Mouth Quarry has a smattering of chalk up it. I haven't brushed it but is pretty clean although the crimp near the top just above the mono's felt slightly sandy. A very good route with really nice delicate technical climbing coupled with extreme fear. It's probably a bit high for a highball approach, bold solo territory IMHO.
Also conditions up there are good as it tends to catch a breeze so stays pretty cool.
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Has anyone done Rock Lobster recently? I remember trying it a while back and thinking it was way harder than Rodney God which is probably only 7c/7c+.
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Buzz caner at the mighty hawkcliffe is brushed and chalked if anyone cares. Defo an underated classic from Tom. Might put video up sometime.
Also nice one Nik, reckon B.T.I is 7 or 8? Thought you were sport climbing today btw... ;)
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Nice one Jordan. I was just reading about that this evening in a mag. Coincidence! Also "Throw another sheep on the fire" - mono's on quarried grit isn't it?!
Nice vid of the Lovely Charlotte thingy. Looks like a nice sequence.
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Cheers Tom, that is a coincidence! What mag was it written up in?
Birketts "Throw another sheep on the fire" is at baildon i think, a product of foot and mouth, hence the name!! Yea its on monos i think, maybe an old aid route?
Nice vid of the Lovely Charlotte thingy. Looks like a nice sequence.
The music made it!!
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I think Neil Foster mentioned Buzz Caner in his new routes report in High, Summer '01 (mysteriously upgrading it to 7a...). Good route for summer grit, as there's often a bit of a breeze in the rift. Would be interested in seeing the vid.
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The music made it!!
My mute button made it! The climbing looks great.
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Also nice one Nik, reckon B.T.I is 7 or 8? Thought you were sport climbing today btw... ;)
I really couldn't say, I wouldn't argue with your assertion that it is E8 as a solo. It's harder, bolder, more sustained and less secure than EOTA IMHO. Make of that what you will...
Nice one on Buzz.
I was supposed to be sport climbing yesterday but instead did some work at home (as you know the house needs it) as it was looking a bit grim. A lunchtime jolly to Cows Mouth was inspired by the clearing conditions. Today was sport climbing, which was slightly less successful...
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Gibson says he has regeared and cleaned Cowdale / Craig Y Biceps and added a couple more.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=405691 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=405691)
http://sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Cowdale%20Topo.htm (http://sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Cowdale%20Topo.htm)
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after my visit to Masson Lees last spring, i think i'd rather stick pins in my eyes
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I think Neil Foster mentioned Buzz Caner in his new routes report in High, Summer '01 (mysteriously upgrading it to 7a...). Good route for summer grit, as there's often a bit of a breeze in the rift. Would be interested in seeing the vid.
Right, you gave it 6c then? I was told 7a and it felt about right to be honest, but is that linked to my expectation... and the fact i fell off three times :(
Bet you were amazed to find such a smart line with just enough holds to make it fun!
Also nice one Nik, reckon B.T.I is 7 or 8? Thought you were sport climbing today btw... ;)
I really couldn't say, I wouldn't argue with your assertion that it is E8 as a solo. It's harder, bolder, more sustained and less secure than EOTA IMHO. Make of that what you will...
Yea I was not sure either, when i did it, many years ago i was comparing it to stuff like obsession fatale but then was ego was knocked when that got regraded. But i would like to think it is e8 and I only just found out you onsight soloed it too! That is such a good effort!!!! I do remember its got a few moves on it for sure.
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after my visit to Masson Lees last spring, i think i'd rather stick pins in my eyes
Ha, funny that! I went there yesterday and nearly got hit by a bit block falling off the top! I actually thought the climbing was quite good though. The perfect combination of sandy holds, wet pockets, snapping edges and munge. Classic Gibbo.
Craig y Biceps next I think.... :whistle:
Jordan - no idea on the mag thing. Just had a look but couldn't find it. Was an old OTE. Have you or Adam cleaned up any more lines at Wilton? I'd like to come over a do Gigantic, but would be nice to know there's some other clean stuff in case I'm crap/not inspired/it's too hot.
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... and the fact i fell off three times
That sounds a bit trouser-filling; I'm surprised the RPs held! Probably font 7b+ish isn't it? Anyway good effort for unearthing this one.
I only just found out you onsight soloed it too! That is such a good effort!!!!
This sounds a bit crazy Nik. Bon effort indeed.
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It's significantly harder than OF I think.
Monopoly (E7) at Millstone is probably the closest match for style that I can think of right now. BTI has a harder crux, is steeper, more sustained and equally bold. I'd also say it's harder than other E7 onsights I've done, but as these are few and far between it is hard to draw direct comparisons.
Does this make it E8? I dunno, but I wouldn't argue.
Cheers Tom. It's good to see your back-in-the-day routes getting a bit of attention too. I've never seen Buzz but it certainly has a fiercesome reputation.
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Nice one Nik - good to see you bringing back that bouldering strength to some trad love. I keep on trying to tell these boulderers if someone as weak as me can get up some harder trad routes, they'd find them a piece of piss!!
Also cleaned recently - At Harston's - One Chromosone's Missing, Boysen-Carrington route and Pair O' Genes. We flashed the first 2 (they're very reasonable at the grade ;) !!) and then I decked up Pair O Genes, which probably says that one's a touch harder. Clean and ready to go at least. That Andy Popp route needs a repeat as well.... looks clean. DNA is filthy.
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Bumped into Boysen at the weekend, he reckoned Harston's would be a a good candidate for some tree thinning.
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That Andy Popp route needs a repeat as well.... looks clean. DNA is filthy.
Chuffed people know of this, would be even more chuffed if it got a repeat - I know Andi T has put some effort in. No excuses for anything but the best of style on this one ;).
But massive props to Nik.
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after my visit to Masson Lees last spring, i think i'd rather stick pins in my eyes
Have you or Adam cleaned up any more lines at Wilton? I'd like to come over a do Gigantic, but would be nice to know there's some other clean stuff in case I'm crap/not inspired/it's too hot.
Gigantic should still be well clean after all the attention its getting. Jordan cleaned Toxic Billberries also. I'll be cleaning Darwin Weasel up in next few days.
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Full Tilt got its first clean of the season yesterday. It is also bone dry, even the start. Get to it.
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It's significantly harder than OF I think.
Monopoly (E7) at Millstone is probably the closest match for style that I can think of right now. BTI has a harder crux, is steeper, more sustained and equally bold. I'd also say it's harder than other E7 onsights I've done, but as these are few and far between it is hard to draw direct comparisons.
Does this make it E8? I dunno, but I wouldn't argue.
Well you have 1 day to do all the 8's in a month. Pull your finger out ;) Will be cheering you on Thursday. :dance1:
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Well you have 1 day to do all the 8's in a month. Pull your finger out ;) Will be cheering you on Thursday. :dance1:
Me too - is the local hero sponsored yet? If not may I suggest:
(http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:2n-690V3Unx2gM:http://media.cardplayer.com/image/8/888_com.jpg)
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Gnarly hairy slab-genius midget in covert E7 onsight shocker!! :thumbsup:
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Gnarly hairy slab-genius midget in covert E7 onsight shocker!! :thumbsup:
Not so hairy at the moment. Had his yearly hair cut it seems :P
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It's significantly harder than OF I think.
Monopoly (E7) at Millstone is probably the closest match for style that I can think of right now. BTI has a harder crux, is steeper, more sustained and equally bold. I'd also say it's harder than other E7 onsights I've done, but as these are few and far between it is hard to draw direct comparisons.
Does this make it E8? I dunno, but I wouldn't argue.
aye was not comparing B.T.I style wise to O.F. Just that if one was gradeX the other one is surely harder, so its at least XX. So its eXX. I do hate grades.....
Do the deed tomoz Nik!!! No pressure!
Forgot to mention toxic is clean. Good climbing indeed.
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Do you know anything about the peg? I assume it went in that flakey thing just above the overlap originally?
I guess if the peg was in some way worthwhile (which I assume it would be or why have it there??) then a sight upgrade as a solo would be reasonable. Obviously I will struggle to have an impartial opinion here...
Grades are awkward, I've just written a long rambling piece and then deleted it all but in summary it said "I think E8, maybe low in the grade, similar feeling to Doug when I topped out".
I think I'm trad-ed out for a bit now or I'll end up being silly...
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Just call it hard E7 and be done with it :lol:
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The Lovely Charlotte e7 6b (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEvYJjNe0Hg&feature=channel#)
A not too clear video of The Lovely Charlotte, gives you some idea what its like.
Fuck me sideways, i cant believe someones bin on it, nice one Jordon. :-)
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Nik at work, ive just read this thread properly, crickey thats a good effort on BTI. I tried a similar thing to yourself on BTI about 10 years ago in a moment of madness, but didnt quite make it, i just had very achy ankles for a few days, and said a few thankful prayers. Yeah in my expert opinion :lol: id say youve jus onsighted E8. The peg wasnt there when i tried it so it is a solo and i think this is what Gaz Parry did on the FA. Compare it to any other quarry 7's about and its def a step up... perimter walk is 6b at the same height as is s groove etc etc.
Cool it looks like its gonna be quarried grit madness again this year :thumbsup:
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I've never tried S-Groove, but BTI is several orders of difficulty harder than Perimeter Walk. PW is just one not particularly hard move, BTI is several harder moves in a row and is much more tenuous.
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Jordan Buys sending "Buzz Caner" (http://vimeo.com/11333342)
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It's not far from me so I should make a comment - those inverted commas really should be around 'sending'. (good line, great crag, well done! - charlie don't surf next mr Nike? :thumbsup:)
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Can I just say that I love this thread and the efforts documented herein. Cleaning routes, heroic ascents and general all round goodliness. Waddage to all of you :kiss1:
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I've never tried S-Groove, but BTI is several orders of difficulty harder than Perimeter Walk. PW is just one not particularly hard move, BTI is several harder moves in a row and is much more tenuous.
Nik, yeah exactly. Pw although soft touch, you still wouldnt want to balls it, n with standard correlation, committed 6b in a scary leg breakin place is E7 in my book, committed (more sustained) 6c in a scary leg breakin place is E8. Anyway 8)
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Cheers for the vid Jordan, and good effort, especially for testing the gear.
For the record, and without intending to take away from this achievement at all, I placed all the gear on lead in a single push so couldn't reach the slightly better higher placements from the rest. I guess that's why it felt on the bold side. Not that it makes much difference, but I also started direct up the slab.
Anyway, good tick... on to the next one!
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Have no idea where to put this very basic video of Elm St at Millstone, but anyway here it is. Not exactly a route that needs cleaning, but useful beta for the sequence if anyone fancies it.
Cheers for Nige bringing out his van's worth of pads - now a V8 highball..... ;)
Tom Randall climbing Elm Street (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRWTwogA8tQ#)
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nice one tommy. Good effort.
Also not exactly a cleaned route (although i did pull a few bits of moss and choss off it); but Big Wall Party (Colussus Wall) climbed at the weekend - more of a query really - anyone else done / tried it? The crux on pitch one seems bafflingly hard to me....
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At Millstone a few new routes ready to go for those chuffers out there....
Urban Sprawl E6 6b.
Now cleaned an chalked. Neither me or Pete W could do it after multiple goes - has anyone else done this bit of esoterica? I thought it was well tricky or just suitable to a totally monster reach.
Adios Amigos E5 6b
Clean and fine to go. Looks a bit green but no effect on the climbing what so ever. Weird and unique!
Trumpton Anarchist E6 6b
Cleaned up and chalked - ready to get flashed by anyone keen! Didn't have time for this, but would like to go back and do it if anyone is interested? Boulder problem on the end of a rope essentially.
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Damn it, wish my ankle was better! Good stuff Tommy, rest assured I'll be straight on these come Autumn. Saved me a job at least. :thumbsup:
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hijack: did you get a second opinion on it nige? (ankle that is)
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I cleaned the holds on Kiss Me Hardy on the Long Wall in the Gorge du Chee and climbed it a couple of days ago. Well worth getting on while it's dry and the extra traffic will help clean it up even more. Unfortunately I didn't have a large brush to get rid of more of the crap on it.
I also cleaned (again as much as possible without a large brush) and climbed the original finish to Bored of the Lies on the Cornice today. Despite looking really eliminate from the ground it felt pretty independent and the moves are really good.
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Well done - the Long Wall 'hardy' routes were filthy. Nice one.
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I've rebolted Whose line is it Anyway at the Chee Cornice with glue-ins from the PBF, and it had a good clean last night so should be pretty climbable now. I'll attempt to remove the old bolts when I'm next down there and have the right type/size of spanner with me.
A week or so ago I scrubbed the lower wall and roof of Roof Warrior, since then others have cleaned the upper wall and is now dry and clean enough to climb, though a few of the bolts are looking a bit dodgy.
Also to make a change from the usual warm ups then I gave European Female a scrub, its the 7a on the first bit of rock you reach when approaching from Wormhill.
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I've rebolted Whose line is it Anyway at the Chee Cornice....
Nice one, Useless - I'd been looking forward to doing that one again. Did you get to try out the PBF drill?!
Incidentally, did you clean it direct at the bottom? When we first did it, it was cleaned and climbed direct, with quite a tricky section at the start, but in recent years the chalk (and me, I admit) has tended to deviate right to a big resting flake in Big Store.
Anyways, I hope some of the other easier Cornice routes get this treatment, as there really is more to the place than Clarion Call and the blatently manufactured Martial Music...
Neil
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The drill was offered but UP had his own and is Notts based so prob not keen to deviate via Sheff anyway.
Seb mentioned he was going to re-equip Egyptian Bizarre.
Any particular requests Neil? I've been badgering the troops to do That Was the River, which has especially shocking bolts.
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I'd be keen to redo TWTR, that will sort out Rapid City too. It'll be a couple of weeks before I get a chance though - I'm not about this weekend and its not really an evening activity either (if you want to climb as well).
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Any particular requests Neil? I've been badgering the troops to do That Was the River, which has especially shocking bolts.
Well, perhaps surprisingly, my first choice would be Spiders from Mars. It may be the worst route on The Cornice, but it is by far the best warm up, and has had dodgy bolts for years. But if anyone is feeling generous, please will you give it an independent belay over on the right. Sharing the Snails belay as it has in recent years, makes it a real pain to clean.
Apart from that, I would like to do things like Naive and Sentimental Lover, or Old Man River Direct again.
I would love to do That was the River again, but unfortunately I don't think it is a very realistic prospect...
Neil
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Apparently reports have been made to various bodies about the recent bolting in Cheedale. This is potentially a very sensitive issue so it would be good if we could get the various peeps who have been/ are intending to do any bolting together to discuss things (over a pint ideally) ASAP. This has nothing to do with humming and hawing over climbing ethics, purely an access issue.
Could anyone who is likely to do any bolting/ mega cleaning projects send me a PM and we'll sort a time and place.
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Not sure if these guys read this, but i know Jon Clark has been doing some bolting, and Awesome Mawson has been doing some cleaning. Worth passing on info about this post to them, for someone that might see them in next few days?
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I've passed the message on to relevant bods.
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Apparently reports have been made to various bodies about the recent bolting in Cheedale. This is potentially a very sensitive issue so it would be good if we could get the various peeps who have been/ are intending to do any bolting together to discuss things (over a pint ideally) ASAP. This has nothing to do with humming and hawing over climbing ethics, purely an access issue.
Another thing parking is getting a bit crowded even on Monday evenings when I noticed that one of the cars was partially blocking the exit from the track. They would have got used to not having so many cars in recent summers at the little house off the path. If in doubt is only an extra 100 or so yards up the road to find space.
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I think in previous years the shorter fork of their lane was the one more commonly used. A couple of potholes in that seems to have put them back on the longer one.
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Kilnsey.
Central Wall, and surrounding E5's and 6's on that wall are pretty clean and chalked as off today. Thanks to Steve Crowe.
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Kilnsey.
Central Wall, and surrounding E5's and 6's on that wall are pretty clean and chalked as off today. Thanks to Steve Crowe.
Worth a mention that The Overlap has had 6+ attempts this year of which only 2 were clean, RP styli. One of the pegs was replaced and it has seen plenty of airtime.
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Kilnsey.
Central Wall, and surrounding E5's and 6's on that wall are pretty clean and chalked as off today. Thanks to Steve Crowe.
Worth a mention that The Overlap has had 6+ attempts this year of which only 2 were clean, RP styli. One of the pegs was replaced and it has seen plenty of airtime.
Steve was egging me to get on it. It looks harder than the thumb!
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Kilnsey.
Steve was egging me to get on it. It looks harder than the thumb!
I think you should..... :whistle:
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The Lockless Monster at The Nook in Chee Dale now re-bolted and cleaned up
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The Lockless Monster at The Nook in Chee Dale now re-bolted and cleaned up
Which hero has undertaken this mission? I have a wad ready and waiting...
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:bounce: :bounce: For those of an esoteric slant we did the Pit & Pendulum at Nesscliffe yesterday. Absolutely amazing line, 47m, bone dry, fully chalked and cleansed of all the old nests! Probably more E6 for effort :-\ but v. safe bar a slightly sketchy start.
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Effort, I'm well jealous!
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:bounce: :bounce: For those of an esoteric slant we did the Pit & Pendulum at Nesscliffe yesterday. Absolutely amazing line, 47m, bone dry, fully chalked and cleansed of all the old nests! Probably more E6 for effort :-\ but v. safe bar a slightly sketchy start.
Nice one. I did that a couple of years ago. It took me TWO showers to become clean after it.
Amazing route, and there's always that in-situ black ab rope just to the left you can jump for if it all becomes too much ;)
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Nice one. I did that a couple of years ago. It took me TWO showers to become clean after it.
Flip yeh, my shower tray has half of Nessa in it......
Amazing route, and there's always that in-situ black ab rope just to the left you can jump for if it all becomes too much ;)
[/quote]
I know....nice bit of dulux classic black although the Pearl effect is gorge ;)
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Nice one, Rich - with that news, I'm definitely headed Nesscliffe-ward.
Shame it won't be this weekend, as I'm committed to climbing in the Lakes (in the rain :()
Neil
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Feel a bit :-[ posting this. For those of you after something different at Kilnsey, Detox is now clean and chalked. Worthwhile, and stiff for the grade of 7b+. Hard start leads to steady jug hauling above.
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Why the red face? Cos of your illiteracy?
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Why the red face? Cos of your illiteracy?
I posted this on my pc, so should be ok. As opposed to the tiny keys on my Blackberry. I assume all is as it should be?
The face was because i don't think anyone will bother getting on it.
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Good effort on rebolting Lockless Ethan. A great little route that's more Font 7b than French 7c+. Really quite hard moves that would probably be a crux section of an 8b but without the annoying bit at the beginning that tires you out.
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:bounce: :bounce: For those of an esoteric slant we did the Pit & Pendulum at Nesscliffe yesterday. Absolutely amazing line, 47m, bone dry, fully chalked and cleansed of all the old nests! Probably more E6 for effort :-\ but v. safe bar a slightly sketchy start.
What you meant to say was absolutely amazing line, but terrible climbing??! I thought I'd do this as you'd said it was fully chalked and dry. Well, I think the chalk may have all fallen off with the first 5mm of sand on every hold! ;D
Good effort for doing some cleaning though. I pulled a big block off the final crack as well, so it's a bit safer for belayers now.
Anyone want to clean up The Monster? Please..... :)
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Ah, so I wasn't the only one who fell for that "bone dry, chalked and clean" rumour Tom. I've already informed the Trades Descriptions people - they are en route to deepest Altringham as we speak...
Actually, I thought of you as I thrutched up that slot at the start. I bet you relied on technique to overcome that obstacle, whereas I even forgot to deploy the clipstick I'd taken for the first bolt!
Did you have a view on the grade? Rich and Nick thought E6 for effort, but as the gear couldn't be much better, I declared it "ungradeable" (though I did have to try hard).
Think I know the block in question, as I put a big friend next to a block near the top and the block flexed noticably. I made sure I didn't fall off that move...
Which one is The Monster?
Neil
ps. 2 quotes from Sunday:-
NF - "This is probably the best quarry in Britain"
CR - "I don't think I'll be coming here again..."
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This is probably the best quarry in Britain
No probably about it!
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Ah, you did it as well! Good effort for sticking with it. I actually used the worst technique known the seasoned crack climber..... "A layback" I felt so dirty using it. I think I might have even started speaking in French for the rest of the route.
As for grade - well everything is soft (including many of the holds!) at Nesscliffe, so in my estimation it felt about as much effort as other Nesscliffe E6s, but in the rest of the world like a very sandy Gogarth E5 or an E4 elsewhere. Still, you've got to have some soft destinations to have your good days at eh?!
Grades eh. :shrug:
Thai Boxing next week, so then I'll know what real E6 is!
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Oh - and The Monster is that incredible corner right of Yukan II, which makes you cross your legs just looking at it. Be nice if it got cleaned up.
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Grades eh. :shrug:
The Nuance. Suprised that you found that one easy for the grade?
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Definitely harder that Trouble in Toytown, but fairly ok though. I might be totally wrong about the grades at Nesscliffe - maybe it just suits me? I tend to go with the general line of thinking that I'm not that good at climbing, especially onsighting, so if I'm doing well, it's got to be for reasons other than I'm any good!! ;D
I always tend to look at the monumental list of climbs that you've done Tom, in good style and think fucking hell, when am I going to do that?? So therefore my default position is one of crapness.
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Horses for courses. Plenty of folk get freaked out by the soft rock and lack of grab-and-pull type climbing.
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Ah, so I wasn't the only one who fell for that "bone dry, chalked and clean" rumour Tom. I've already informed the Trades Descriptions people - they are en route to deepest Altringham as we speak...
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;D ;D ;D Well perhaps the "dangled carrot" was a little over enticing but I'm sure you'll cherish the experience for a while. We did procrastinate a while on the wording but on balance concluded that "Bone dry, chalked and clean" was a fair summary considering how filthy it was! .....and I did say it was sandy more than once Neil.
:great: effort Tommy, good to see more than one bite ;)
Nuance looks good but I hear its a tad more pokey an O/S than Trouble in Toytown.
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Yeah Nuance is a little bolder, but very steady climbing in the bold bit. Pit and Pendulum felt more scary and harder work to me, due to sandiness and too much sport climbing recently. :)
That new line to the right of Yukan II looks pretty good too. Clean at the moment as well as I think it got FA'd fairly recently.
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Following the last bit of weekend work, we have now cleaned and re-bolted the vast majority of the routes in Frogsmouth (probably about 10-15 more routes left to re-equip and then start on new routes). The next/hopefully last piece of work to finish the quarry is likely to be in August.
Routes cleaned and re-equipped so far:
COSMO WALL
Dogsbody Arete F6a <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
On The Couch F6a <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
Wall Street F6a+ <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
Agony Aunt F7a <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
Gardener's Ledge F5+ <Girdle>
Zest F6a <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
Horrorscope F6a <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
M&B Special F6c+<Re-bolted and lower off installed>
Sex Survey F6c+ <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
Perfumed Groove F6a <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
Just After Fifty F6a <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
Apple Crumble F6a <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
VIZ WALL
Johnny Fart Pants F6c+ <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
The Flying School F6c+ <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
Pathetic Sharks F7a <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
Topless Skateboarding Nun F7a+<Re-bolted and lower off installed>
The Big Stiff One F7c <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
Comet Crack E5 6a <lower bolts replaced>
Motorcycle Girl F6c+<Re-bolted and lower off installed>
EYE WALL
Dear Bill F7a+ <Re-bolted and lower off installed>
GREEN SLAB
The Snurger F6a <Bolted and lower off installed>
Green Slab F4 <Bolted and lower off installed>
Trilogy F4+ <Bolted and lower off installed>
More details/some topos on the Cheshire Wiki - see link in my signature...
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Notional Trust at Nesscliffe had 3 ascents over the weekend and now pretty clean. All felt 3 stars, safe & fine as an o/s. A little "sahara" in the break but fairly manageable & nothing like P & P lower section. Top peg tested twice and seems bomber, BUT it only accepts a small biner(e.g. Phantom).
The direct (Time for Tea? E6 6c?) is also clean,looks :bounce: and has good pegs.
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Things were pretty dry then? Sacked off going cos we figured it'd need a while to dry fully.
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Stayed the w/e. Sat was pretty mincey, spitting on and off and humid.
Yesterday was breezy and fresh till mid pm. Bass Drum H, Gathering Sun, Cones, Marlene, Jump etc all had ascents.
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Accelerator at the Hollywood bowl, Giggleswick North got a good scrub and and chalk yesterday.
This 8b+ of Steve Dunning's is very very good, I highly recommend getting on it guys. Its nicely sustained and features some great sequences, all big moves on huge holds with an awesome finish.
There is more to life than Kilnsey kids!!! :P
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Yorkshire Ripper has been fully rebolted.
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Couple of things clean and chalked at Hodge Close if you fancy an exciting day out.
Ten Years After. Probably E5 6b now the start has fallen down. Looks recent. All chalked and clean.
Main Event. Chalked and clean.
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There's been a bit of re-equipping done on the Ormes over summer, here's a list of what I can remember being done:
Pen Trwyn
Quicksilver 7a has a new bolt to protect the previously very run out crux. Good route.
Excursion Direct 6c+/7a bolts re-spaced at start and is now a properly bolted sport route.
Dive Dive Dive, bolt before traverse replaced higher to protect against hitting ramp.
Peppermint Pig E3 6a, now has it's own lower-off.
Storm Warning 7a, Drip Drip Drip 6c/+, Wet Dreams 7a all rebolted. Drip Drip Drip is v.nice.
Thin Red Line retrobolted, now 7b ish
Pigeons Cave
All the routes have had new resin bolt lower-off's.
Koo 7b fully re-equipped with resin bolts. Good route
Stiff Upper Lip 8a fully re-equipped with resin bolts. Amazing-looking upside-down climbing on jugs. The unclimbed extension also has a new lower-off.
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The Wall of Evening Light (on The Diamond) has been fully re-bolted with resins. Climbed it today (of a sort) and it's even better than I imagined it would be. World class. :great:
It's not 50m's as described in the rockfax (nor did it have 16 bolts as described - try 7 bolts and 3 pegs!). Probably 37 - 40 metres, it's been equipped with an intermediate ab point, although we climbed on a 70m rope and lowered to the ground in one with rope to spare.
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The Wall of Evening Light (on The Diamond) has been fully re-bolted with resins.
You are doing a cracking job! :beer2:
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Daytona Wall, Daytona Wall Direct Start and Daytona Wall Direct Finish at Cows Mouth Quarry are clean and have a bit of chalk on them. Combining the direct start and finish as one route is probably worth E6 for a solo (IMHO) although I suspect (and this is only guesswork on my part) that it may be possible to get some gear right at the top in the thin break to protect the last move, which is somewhat heart in the mouth stuff without. Boldness Through Ignorance looked to still be clean although I didn't touch the middle section so can't say for definite. Some of the cracks and breaks at the start have a bit of dampness but it's easily avoided and will probably disappear in the next day or so if this weather continues. Daytona Wall is excellent, and the combination of the two directs is equally good climbing if a slightly less strong line. If you're in the area this face is definitely worthy of attention. The rest of the quarry seemed pretty seepy, green and damp (from a quick visual inspection) but this face seems to stay pretty dry and clean.
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Due to the recent dry spell the Whatstandwell quarries are amazingly dry. I've been and cleaned the start of Great Crack in Duke's today and the whole route is in fine nick. Harder routes there will respond well to cleaning too, I imagine. most of the routes in the Robin Hood Quarries are dry and some have obviously been cleaned after the last dry spell and will, I imagine, be onsightable by the brave and talented.
I've also taken three bags of rubbish out of the quarries over the last week, although someone (I imagine it was the three camo-clad lads I met in there on Saturday afternoon) has broken two trees down and sawn and burnt bits off another. >:(
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From what I remember those quarries could do with a small platoon of camo-clad lads turning up! A few less mangey sycamores and it might dry out more often. Seriously the quarries can’t be much over a hundred years old so this is not diverse well established woodland, it’s just a load of straggly weed trees. The wildlife value would be greatly improved by clearing the quarry floor. I think the BMC has sought permission off the landowner to do some clearance work here in the past but to no avail.
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Im not arguing more curious but how would clearing help the wildlife? Logic to me is that tree and ground cover is good for animals to hide/nest/forage in. Am i missing something important with this thinking? Maybe letting rarer species of plants and trees have more light to grow in?
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Not a lot grows under Sycamore in this country. Clearings within woodlands provide a diversity of niches, as do decaying felled trees. An open rather than overgrown quarry may attract large nesting birds such as Ravens or Peregrines.
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Had a look into Dukes Quarry last night. Even the majority of Recess Wall was dry (though mega filth from years of wet ming). With it still being spring the place would be pleasant to climb in as the leaf canopy isn’t full out yet. The quickest and best things to clean up look to be Dharma (and the really good looking new E4 that joins it near the end) and stuff on the Repo Man/Get Rich Quick wall. Might go back and do a route or two, if I can find anyone mad enough to join me!
Also dropped in at (the other) Secret Garden. Two large trees have fallen away from the base of the main wall leaving it really clear, clean and open. Whisper looks great. Does anyone know just how sketchy the access is? Has anyone ever been collared by the residents?
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Hot Dog Sniffer - Black Rocks Woods - Clean and chalked, well flashable
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Castell y Gwynt -
Cruella Deville (7b?) - 3 bolts added, now fully bolted. Large loose shield of rock removed mid way up. Super route. 9 bolts + lower-off.
Hidden Sign (7b?) - 1 bolt added to staple lower-off, in-situ threads removed from New Dimension/Appian Way/Hidden Sign belay/abseil. Another brilliant route. 8 bolts + lower-off.
Pen Trwyn -
Taipan. Cleaned and climbed this the other day, I think this may have lost a hold below the first roof, there's a rock scar and a block on the floor which looks like it may have come out of the route? It's definitely lost a large block from the finish because we crow-barred it off before it fell. The crux felt desperate, the way we did it involved an unlikely heelhook, perhaps soft 7c? I think this is a really good route, similar in style and quality to Tomorrow People.
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Went back to Dukes Quarry over the weekend and cleaned up Get Rich Quick (E5 6b). As described in the grade list of the old Chatsworth Guide, “One of the best cracks in the Peak”. Brilliant route, 20m of sustained un-peg scarred finger crack. Starts at just over finger width and gets progressively narrower and harder. Described as having 4 pegs for gear but I found none and there’s loads of trad gear so I left them out. It’s hard to tell after all my cleaning and faffing but it seemed like it’s perhaps worth E6 in the pegless state (but I haven’t done much trad recently so could be wrong), for the added pump of placing small gear in extremis rather than any increase in seriousness. The climbing is about French 7b.
The topout is choss so I’ve left a rope and krab belay/lower-off in place for any would be repeaters.
This wall is the cleanest and driest bit of the crag and all the routes on it look really good and worth the not excessive effort required to clean them up. The unclimbed left arete looks like it will make a tasty E8/9.
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Nice work! I'll get down there to do that. Best in the morning/afternoon/evening if hot and sunny?
How long are you going to leave the lower off rope in? As in.... how hasty to I have to be in getting down there ;D
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How long are you going to leave the lower off rope in? As in.... how hasty to I have to be in getting down there ;D
Till it rots I expect. Let us know what its like. Ain't many good well protected E5/6 cracks about.
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It’s in full shade until early afternoon and they gets broken sun through tree shade. The bottom few metres are likely to be damp in tropical weather, but this bit is fairly easy so no great issue. Generally any dampness is worse in the morning.
I didn’t intend to remove the lower off, it’s nigh on invisible from below and I have no shortage of short scraps of static rope. Though I’d probably take it down in a year or two, if it was still there and I was at the crag.
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I see White Gold at Chee Tor has been retro-bolted. I was keen to do this, and I must admit it has rather less appeal as a 6c+ than an E4. Anyone any thoughts, I know Jonboy did it in the not too distant past?
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Also dropped in at (the other) Secret Garden. Two large trees have fallen away from the base of the main wall leaving it really clear, clean and open. Whisper looks great. Does anyone know just how sketchy the access is? Has anyone ever been collared by the residents?
No idea on what the current access situation is (probably exactly the same i.e. no climbing allowed) but went there a few years back now with another poster off here. No sign of the residents but it was midweek and the nearest we got to the house was to have a look at the main wall and to climb the big HS\VS arete. You could probably get away with climbing at the bottom of the garden as long as you kept a low profile but the main wall which looks like it tops out in the garden proper would be pushing it.
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I see White Gold at Chee Tor has been retro-bolted. I was keen to do this, and I must admit it has rather less appeal as a 6c+ than an E4. Anyone any thoughts, I know Jonboy did it in the not too distant past?
It was quite a few years ago now, maybe six or seven. Good route but very dirty and a bit loose on the top out. I've no idea who's behind the retro-ing. I hope it's not visually obvious as the DWT seem to notice new bolts on Chee tor and it could create access issues. However it's not the most heinous case of retro-ing given that the fixed gear on the route was reputedly of the pegs in drilled holes variety! I think new pegs in the old holes (if at all possible) would have been a better solution given the access.
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Kris Clemmow has recorded the bolts on the UKB database, though Rab suggested it might have been Zippy who put them in. Either way it doesn't appear they've consulted very widely before doing so. I only had a look from across the river, the bolts aren't too obvious though the route looks to have had a thorough clean. The in-situ gear looked like threads to me, a couple are still there. Hopefully will get to have a closer look soon.
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Had a look in the Wye Valley guide and it mentions a golo (drilled in peg) and two threads.
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My very distant old memory has the fixed gear back in the early 90's as being very shoddy, the golo was the only thing between you and the floor i seem to remember.
Bit full on to retro the whole thing, remember it being scary at the top as well.
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Bit full on to retro the whole thing,
Yeah, that was my thinking. I reckon there are at least six bolts now, its certainly not going to be a bold undertaking.
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Seem's a bit silly to me - it was a 'proper' E4 i.e. physically tricky and also it had a good helping of excitement due to the tiny golos that were crucial at keeping you off the ground from the crux. One or two bolts maximum would have been perfectly acceptable (to me), and kept some excitement whilst reducing the chance of injury.
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Cleaned up another one on the Repo Man wall at Dukes today - Mr Franik (E6 6b**). There was actually a bit of chalk on it (!), though it was still filthy and the gear slots all full of cobwebs, so I'm guessing it was someone else checking it out on a rope. Now properly cleaned up as per Get Rich Quick. Judging from trying it on the ab rope it seems easier and less sustained than GRQ and just as well protected except for a boldish bit on the lower wall. Can't believe it used to have four pegs as it really doesn't need any.
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Also at Dukes I had a look at the unclimbed arete mentioned previously. It doesn’t look too hard but has no decent gear for the top bit and is cursed with an exceptionally crumbly ferrous patina which doesn’t clean up very easily.
The mighty Recess Wall area is still pretty wet even after weeks of no rain, which would suggest it may never dry enough to be resurrected!
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I watched / photographed some of the first ascents on Recess Wall, and it looked great at the time.
I think the problem is "the drainage in the lower field" (the upper field, actually). There is a stream which got diverted over Recess Wall, which didn't exist before. Whether this is the outflow of a new land-drain, or a stream which used to enter the quarry elsewhere, I'm not certain.
But it could be worth investigating. If you could channel it to enter the quarry down a nearby chossier wall, it might just be problem solved...
Neil
ps. Whilst you're on a Whatstandwell-roll, Upping the Anty in RH is very good...
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I think the problem is "the drainage in the lower field" (the upper field, actually). There is a stream which got diverted over Recess Wall, which didn't exist before. Whether this is the outflow of a new land-drain, or a stream which used to enter the quarry elsewhere, I'm not certain.
But it could be worth investigating. If you could channel it to enter the quarry down a nearby chossier wall, it might just be problem solved...
Neil
Phill Dickens dug a channel to divert water down Waterfall Wall to create Icicle Repairman in the mid 80's which probably took water away from Recess Wall? If so if re-dug would be a good solution all round.
There is sample BMC Download for the Duke's Quarry section of the guidebookhere (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/guidebooks/sample_chapters/dukes%20quarry%20web%20guide.pdf) for reference for the uninitiated
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More good work Bonjoy - must get my arse down there now there's at least 2 clean routes.
Also - Jon's excellent "The Great Tribulation" is nicely clean and chalked at the moment from a couple of us. Great route and if you want a hard trad hit in these boiling temperatures, it's perfect. Don't forget to take a friend 4 if you do go, plus a load of small and mid sized wires.
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Castell y Gwynt -
Cruella Deville (7b?) - 3 bolts added, now fully bolted. Large loose shield of rock removed mid way up. Super route. 9 bolts + lower-off.
Hidden Sign (7b?) - 1 bolt added to staple lower-off, in-situ threads removed from New Dimension/Appian Way/Hidden Sign belay/abseil. Another brilliant route. 8 bolts + lower-off.
No birdban at Castell y Gwynt currently then?
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No birdban at Castell y Gwynt currently then?
Bird ban 1st Mar - 31st July. Pete will have done the re-bolting before 1st March.
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Woth mentioning that Goat Crag in Borrowdale has had a few visits from the clean-up posse of late. DDT , Praying Mantis, Point Blank (1st Pitch), Tumbleweed Connection, The Voyage, Athanor, The Magpie, Mirage, Alone in Space have all been cleaned and climbed and I believe the old peg on Footless Crow has also been replaced.
Vlad the Impailer on Dove Crag, Sixpence on Pavey and Borderline on Scafell have also had the treatment.
Big thanks to Al Wilson and the team.
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No birdban at Castell y Gwynt currently then?
There's a Peregrine nesting on the Central Pillar ledge so the crag's restricted until 31st July - or sooner if it successfully fledges earlier - keep an eye on the BMC RAD or a better bet is probably the limestone wiki/here. I heard a rumour yesterday that some of the Peregrines on the Clwyd limestone crags have already fledged earlier than usual this year (perhaps due to the unusually warm spring?), so here's hoping.
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Re-bolted Theoria at The Nook today, all brushed and cleaned up too.
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Jug Jockey and route to left now open to public.
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Route to the left? Do you mean Last Eggs or is it a new one?
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Route to the left? Do you mean Last Eggs or is it a new one?
Yes I got fed up waiting for Kieth and nicked his project!
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Only joking.
Just the super duper roof route.
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Follow the Prof (Pigeon's Cave) is now re-bolted, it looks ace - just needs a clean and the top bolt needs checking, Neil thought the glue hadn't set on that one. Funny story really - I've been dying to re-bolt Follow the Prof for the last 8 months because it looks brill in the same mold as Stiff Upper Lip. I put the lower-off in it last September but the old bolts kept snapping on me whilst trying to clip in to them to re-bolt the rest of the route. It needed a ladder. I've been nagging people to borrow a ladder on and off for 8 months now with no success and too many other things on the go kept me from finishing it, then Doylo said he'd get a ladder and make the final push to glory but it never happened. So yesterday I thought fuck it I'm finally going to do it myself by rigging a tension line. I went to Pigeons, put the bottom bolt in for the tension line and then went into town for a brew to wait for the glue to set. I came back to find Neil at the crag... with a ladder - he'd decided to come down and rebolt Follow the Prof out of the blue. ::) Unbelievable, I suppose it was destined to be rebolted yesterday. Anyway get it chalked up for me.
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Cleaned up another one on the Repo Man wall at Dukes today - Mr Franik (E6 6b**). There was actually a bit of chalk on it (!), though it was still filthy and the gear slots all full of cobwebs, so I'm guessing it was someone else checking it out on a rope. Now properly cleaned up as per Get Rich Quick. Judging from trying it on the ab rope it seems easier and less sustained than GRQ and just as well protected except for a boldish bit on the lower wall. Can't believe it used to have four pegs as it really doesn't need any.
A few of us went and checked out Jon's cleaning efforts. Good job you've done there! :thumbsup:
GRQ definitely harder than MF, but less bold. Cool routes for those who like a bit of esoterica. They look dirty and damp from the ground but are fine once you're on them.
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Whilst cleaning up new things I’ve cleaned some adjacent routes. At Gardom’s Raging Insomnia (the hardest looking E3 I’ve seen in a while) and Good Kharma (not sure I cleaned all relevant holds on this one).
At Black Rocks Our Kid and Slanted and Enchanted. Someone (Hamer Bros I think) has cleaned Camel Hot. Firebird is now pretty clean after we did it, though the start is still a little green and one of the best E2s I've done in ages!
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I noticed this evening that the line to the left of Scoop Wall at Stoney has been glued back together.
Does anyone know what that goes at as it stands & is it any good.
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At Gardom’s Raging Insomnia (the hardest looking E3 I’ve seen in a while) ]
Ah yeah, I did that the same night as I did Stormbringer and it felt a lot harder. I took one of them shin scraping falls off it. I think I might have been thinking about going up Mickey Finn but thought twice after that. Although I'm not sure I finished it right as I didn't finish up the arete, just the easy crack. I'd had enough.
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As per other thread Jonah's Boner 7c at Reynard's Cave in Dovedale is now cleaned and has had its belay rope replaced.
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Laughing at the Rain in Cowdale is now clean. Good F7c for boulderers.
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Laughing at the Rain in Cowdale is now clean. Good F7c for lanky boulderers.
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You're not kidding! It's like Revelations for 7c climbers. I think there about 67 8a's that are easier in the Peak (for mid-sized people).
A wet dream dream for John Clarke, Mark Richardson and Gibbo though ;)
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Checked out Victoria Cave at Attermire on Friday - it is awesome! I went up 'lost in thought, lost in time' F7b+. It needed a lot of cleaning but the bolts are in perfect nick (the bolts looked good on the 7c 'Soulsports' too). Unfortunately got rained off before I could get back on it. However, after over an hour's brushing and chalking, it is ready to go when the rain stops!
It's a shame the routes here don't get more attention cos they are pretty special looking, covering some incredible territory.
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Did you notice what the bolts were like on the 8a? I have heard they are pretty dodgy looking.
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Hmm... my confession is that I actually set off intending to go up the 8a but was too tempted by the nice shiny bolts that carried straight on up LIT, LIT compared with the rusty looking relics leading scarily out left.... I don't honestly think they are that bad, I was just being a wimp!
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Ceramic Extension chalked.
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Nice one Rich! Good, isn't it...?
Golden Mile next?
Neil
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Nice one Rich! Good, isn't it...?
Golden Mile next?
Neil
:beer2: Neil. Very good, glad I continued. Bit lonely on that upper wall :o
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Me and Phil Baker replaced the threads and belay slings on Match of the Day & Goal of the Month at Chee Tor and removed most of the vegetation, dust and soil on both routes today. We Also (accidentally!) cleaned some large microwave sized loose blocks off the VS to right which destroyed my flip flops and crushed my 9mm at the 20m mark. :(
Valentine is cleaner too although it could do with the saplings clipping.
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We Also destroyed my flip flops and crushed my 9mm.
Arnold Gun Shop HD (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUJfkaczxlI&feature=related#ws)
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Cleaned up 'after the goldfish' on chee dale cornice at the weekend. It has some good moves and gives another good 7a+ to do other than the usual ones that take a beating. Has some damp on the lower half but good position after this to dry hands and a tough crux. Seems to have lost a hold round here so might be soft 7b now. The top wall is a nice contrast to the rest of the climbing in the area too.
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Mental Pygmy and Fun Traverse at Black Rocks are now clean. MP was pretty choked up with ferns, FT was mostly clean but the break was a ballbearing fest as well as sporting several stones from tourists playing target practice. Both cracking safe struggles.
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Untoward another Black Rocks E5 is now fully cleaned up. Wasn't sure which side of the arete it went up after the crux so cleaned up both possible sequences. I ended up finishing it on the right.
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Cleaned up Superbrook at Wyming Brook this afternoon.
It's a little damp in the break at 2/3rds height but I don't think this would be a showstopper as all the obvious crimpy holds were dry.
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Good effort Chris. Did you get on it? It's been on my 'must go and do' list for ages.
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Good effort Chris. Did you get on it? It's been on my 'must go and do' list for ages.
I had a brief play on it but I was on more of a rest day recce mission to Wyming Brook in general as I'd not been there before and it was too nice to stay indoors. I'm keen to go back for a proper session soon though.
It looks like a class problem but the landing's on a bit of a slope. Might be worth taking a bit of old rope to tie your pads off to a tree (looks like Dan may have done this judging by the pic that's in the guidebook.).
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Red Camalot on the crack in the rock to the left.
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I abbed and cleaned the holds on the top half of Guplets on Toast in the Burbage Valley on Saturday after failing dismally on it on Thursday (weirdly a warm afternoon and very green holds don't seem to make for enjoyable highballing). The holds are still not very obvious but they are at least clean now. It was still a mite harrowing yesterday even with lower temps and clean holds but I thought it was a very good climb. Just wish I could do the sitter......
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nice work, did the start of it a while ago which is nice but the top was rank meant to go back to it
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Hello all, would like to mention and recommend the route "Esoteric Generic" at leashaw brow(holloway), its an E5 6b solo (very highball V5?) climbed by Mat Szabo in 1989, following a lovely crimpy seam and wall. I spent an hour or more the other night brushing all the lichen, moss and dirt off this route. The landing is soft but pretty slopey, needs quite a few pads to flatten it, the route is about 7-8 meters high, with the crux going from a decent hold in the left hand to a small finger slot with the right at around 6 meters, keeping away from the wide crack on the left, quite a dynamic move, but im pretty short. the route climbs wonderfully, great sequence on good positive small holds, with big locks and balancy moves in between. All the hand and foot holds/smears are now clean again, didn't look like this had seen any ascents for 10+ years. It would be a shame if this fine route/promlem was to get dirty again, it deserves some highball attempts. Hope you enjoy it if you seek it out, a little more cleaning would make it even better, as it still feels a bit gritty on the foot smears. thanks, Terry.
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Me and steve went and cleaned off speak the truth in hall moor. We've cut back some of the brambles and smoothed the landing over. Top route.
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Nice work, not been there for years, it was a right mess last time surrounded by loose scree. Highball-able?
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Just stick a siderunner in a tree.
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Nice work, not been there for years, it was a right mess last time surrounded by loose scree. Highball-able?
maybe, we managed to attach some pads to a sling around a rock to stop them sliding into the pit of brambles. its hard to say whether its highballable, i guess depends on how many pads and how many spotters.
it gets easier form where ben gets his lf high on to an edge at 1.05 on this vid-
tetler.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neHmpwVS3Zc#)
so its only hard to 2/3's height.
Great route though, I'll put a video on of me and steve doing it in a few days.
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Nice one Nathan. :icon_beerchug:
from what Steve said I wouldn't want a fall in those brambles. see simba in lion king for reference
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Rubicon
Alimoany 7b+/c
Moat Buttress
No Mud No Thud 7b+
Bigger Splat/Let the Tripe Increase 7a,7c
Moatorhead 7b+
Moat People 7b/+
Afloat in a Moat 6c+
Note: Please keep a low profile when visiting this crag as access is barely tolerated. The water bailiff views the crag as a prime location for nesting water fowl and otters, so please keep your shit machines at home or on a tight leash.
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I thought you'd all like to know that yesterday i replaced four of the abseil stations at Stoney.
Inquisitor, Golden Gate, Scoop Wall and Bitterfingers abseil points had all of the old tat cut off and new, well equalised 10mm rope and decent sized mallion/screwgate of some sort put on.
The Scoop wall and Bitterfingers were is a pretty grim state of 10 or so pieces of rotting shoelace tied to all sorts of stuff, what is there now is a lot simpler and you can actually see what it's tied to!
Whilst i'm here, we also replaced a lot of stuff at Aldery Cliff a few months ago, one of the bit we cut off had just one strand of the core left!
Hopefully this will encourage a bit more traffic onto the limestone again and i plan to continue renewing the belay/abseil points on Peak Limestone when i go to crags like Dovedale, Stoney and the rest of the classic venues which are slowly disappearing under vegetation.
Thanks
Dan
PS. If anyone has any static rope, thinner cord (for replacing in situ threads) or old screwgates/mallions they'd like to donate to replacing abseil stations on Peak Limestone then drop me an email, i'll happily take it off your hands and do the work myself.
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One I cleaned and forgot to mention from a month or so back, Waggy at Gardoms. Given a generous E7 6c in the Froggatt guide but the difficulties are all low down and I've improved the blocky landing. It climbs a lovely shallow groove feature through some bulges. With a few pads it goes at about 7a as far as the two thirds break where you could escape right. The top third is about E2 5c and has runners.
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Rubicon
Alimoany 7b+/c
Moat Buttress
No Mud No Thud 7b+
Bigger Splat/Let the Tripe Increase 7a,7c
Moatorhead 7b+
Moat People 7b/+
Afloat in a Moat 6c+
Note: Please keep a low profile when visiting this crag as access is barely tolerated. The water bailiff views the crag as a prime location for nesting water fowl and otters, so please keep your shit machines at home or on a tight leash.
Sorry I forgot to say what had been done to these routes.
They have had a bit more than just a clean! All have had the Peak Bolt Fund treatment plus the odd hold glued down.
Oh and they are all dry!
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Rubicon
Alimoany 7b+/c
Moat Buttress
No Mud No Thud 7b+
Bigger Splat/Let the Tripe Increase 7a,7c
Moatorhead 7b+
Moat People 7b/+
Afloat in a Moat 6c+
Note: Please keep a low profile when visiting this crag as access is barely tolerated. The water bailiff views the crag as a prime location for nesting water fowl and otters, so please keep your shit machines at home or on a tight leash.
Nat and I popped down here this evening (and we weren't the only ones):
I didn't get on it until last thing in the evening but Moat people is possibly one of the better (dare I say best) 7bs (no need for the +) on Peak Lime?
Let the tripe would be good for anyone feeling quite bouldery. The harder stuff on Crunch also looked interesting.
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few people down this evening. let the tripe is nice and bouldery with good rock, will get back to it.
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finished off tripe with jon today. moat people also very good (dad pulled hold off near top leaving a better one - maybe 7b now?) and tried the utterley desperate moaterhead (could be 7c imo although it was in the sun). a great new place.
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Tell him not to feel bad. I also pulled one off probably in the same place in front of KC... :oops: in April.
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finished off tripe with jon today. moat people also very good (dad pulled hold off near top leaving a better one - maybe 7b now?) and tried the utterley desperate moaterhead (could be 7c imo although it was in the sun). a great new place.
Interesting! The hold (above the crux layaway) that was loose on Sunday was booked in for a service this week, I thought it would make it harder/crapper. Glad it's worked the other way!
Tasty little crux on Moatorhead, would surely be 7c without the brewstop rest.
If your down there again try No Mud No Thud 7b+. This now follows its original line, independent from Excalibur.
I have a link up to do (Bigger Thud 7c?) next time I am down.
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wondered what those bolts were. yeh get that done next time, it be another good addition. the hold on moat people was the second incut layaway on the crux, below the two finger pocket/flake/crack.
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I was at Wildcat Crags today and placed an abseil station on the tree just right (looking in) of the top of Lynx, The tree is directly above 'The Catcuss Furballs Connection' and is right on the edge of the crag so there is no problems in pulling the ropes at all.
It is made of 11mm rope passed around the tree twice with a glued shut carabiner threaded onto it.
It's worth noting that although this means walking off is no longer necessary (and it was a horrible walk in rock shoes!) care should be taken when it's busy as there are a few popular routes which cross the line of abseil - Have a look before you chuck the ropes!
Thanks
Dan
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Something dry to play on if anybody is interested.http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230368 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230368)
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A Good one for all you cheats out there. I'd be impressed if you could take your hands off though!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11922 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11922)
Also the new line to the left is rather good if not with a snappy headwall and an iffy lower off. May sort this out, if I can be arsed .
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:thumbsup: Have always fancied having a go at that.
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A Good one for all you cheats out there. I'd be impressed if you could take your hands off though!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11922 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11922)
Also the new line to the left is rather good if not with a snappy headwall and an iffy lower off. May sort this out, if I can be arsed .
:off: How was the rest of the crag looking, worth the crossing?
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Not bad really. Few streaks down Poor dill area and a little bit of run off right of the warm ups. Perhaps a bit grim around The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag.
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A Good one for all you cheats out there. I'd be impressed if you could take your hands off though!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11922 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11922)
Also the new line to the left is rather good if not with a snappy headwall and an iffy lower off. May sort this out, if I can be arsed .
Good to see the old thing getting some love.
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Mouldwarp Wall next me thinks.
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Me and Leeroy cleaned Grimoire at Crattcliffe a few weeks ago. Climbs well as an excellent 7a+ with a few pads.
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Nice work, well keen to do Grimoire.
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Feeding the Pony at Black Rocks is clean at the moment, just watch the glass from broken bottles on all the ledges :furious:
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No need to all rush at once, but Hotel Supramonte (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40282) has had a face lift.
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No need to all rush at once, but Hotel Supramonte (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40282) has had a face lift.
Now that is a seriously fscking impressive piece of rock. (I know this from having walked underneath it on a family hike through the canyon btw)
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I wouldn't fancy jumaring up a 120 m freehanging half-rope....
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Death Block on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/52653452)
Bolt Replacement on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/53299008)
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Removed a shedload of moss from A Little Sparkle at Guisecliff today. It's in a clean and climbable state now. Good problem and deserves traffic.
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Aguglia of Goloritzé (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40664)
Aguglia di Goloritzè inox re-bolting on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60446975)
Definitely a good thing, backed off the original route a couple of years ago after the first two pitches were a bit more 'exciting' than expected and we couldn't see any protection (nor did we have any large gear) for the chimney pitch. (Retrospectively we should probably have paid more attention to the guidebook description which suggested most people avoided the original route, instead favouring a more recently bolted line to the right :slap: ).
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Not technically a route but I cleaned up Superbrook this morning. Great problem and well worth seeking out.
Short vid here if you want the numbers:
Superbrook on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/64442998)
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Not technically a route but I cleaned up Superbrook this morning. Great problem and well worth seeking out.
great work
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Where/what's that?
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Where/what's that?
It's a Dan Varian problem at Wyming Brook, not far from Rivelin.
A nice little spot with the odd gem, like Superbrook.
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Had a rainy look round Wyming Brook on Thurs eve. Superbrook looked good. Also noticed that one of Dan's other probs Rhyming Brook 7a, is actually John Allen's Backwater Barracudas an E3 6a done in 86.
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Had a rainy look round Wyming Brook on Thurs eve. Superbrook looked good. Also noticed that one of Dan's other probs Rhyming Brook 7a, is actually John Allen's Backwater Barracudas an E3 6a done in 86.
I actually cleaned Superbrook on Wednesday but didn't have my pads with me. I went back on Thursday and got there just as it started raining so had to wait till the weekend. Pleased to get it done as it shut me down last year. The crux is a bit like an opposite version of the crux on Big Al Qaeda at the Stride.
When I looked at Rhyming Brook last year I thought the description matched that of Backwater Barracudas. Font 7a - sounds about right for John Allen E3 ;)
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Kingfisher (not much of a clean, just cobwebs mostly - it is chalked and brilliant though) although if someone does this take a bolt hanger and spanner for the belay - 1 proper bolt and 1 stud at the moment and A Miller's Tale (both Rubicon)
Gave AMT a pretty good clean prior to doing it - it felt like a slightly harder and better version of Hot Fun Closing to me (eek old school E5!) At the moment there is just the one peg just above the big pocket/cave - can be backed up with couple of wires just to right - then it is all wires and cams etc all a little fiddly to place and felt more like E6 for the climbing and gear (I rped it after cleaning it) little spicey at the top.
If people want gear beta I can give it but don't want to spoil the on sight for the youths...
Kingfisher - I thought this was really good and pretty hard. Stick clip the bolt on Jezebel (or climb up and then you can also put a wire over the second bolt stub next to it). The 2 pegs seem ok and you have the bolt over L anyhow. Great moves up to and passing the pegs and also last fun bit moving up to base of groove (shared with Jezebel) The big flake in groove is a little hollow sounding (put a wire in and you will see!) especially the blocky bit at its top but good holds just above and then ledge. Gear on ledge and belay above. Again I didn't os this, these E5s are well hard.
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Nice one El Mocho, Oli G had a right time in the muck up there on AMT not so long back.
In other cleaning news; a mate went and cleaned Powerplant up on the cornice yesterday.
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Good work at Rubicon Ben. How did the bolts look on Kingfisher/Jezebel? Do these routes have lower-offs, or would they be appropriate/useful?
On the cleaning front, I de-mossed Sleight of Hand at Cratcliffe yesterday, an E4 6a Martin Veale arete on right of Hermit's Cave. Climbs really nicely and is another good one on the highball circuit here (high end of highball but very flat landing, maybe font 6b). Everything on the P-crack block was also already cleaned and in good nick.
Also on the grit I gave Dreamboat at Froggatt a proper clean and did the obvious direct finish. I suspect this might be the same as the E2 6b done by John Allen in the 90's. It's the obvious good slab line on the block and JA did have an eye for a line, plus the grade seems in line with his typical stern grading of micro routes. I thought 7a at first, on the basis that R-man's version of the line got 7a and it seemed daft to have a direct finish with a lower grade. But thinking about it and having climbed it again I reckon it's more like 6c. Watching R-man's vid it kind of looks like the crux might be the move right which the direct doesn't do, which could explain the 7a grade. Also climbed the wall just left at 7a+, will put details on new probs thread.
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Vid of Dreamboat with new(?) finish:
Dreamboat Direct on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/64916198)
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Good work! I'm surprised it wasn't harder - I couldn't see any holds up there past the sloper, though it looks like they do exist.
I think the move out right was the crux, though if you have given it a proper clean perhaps the sloper is more positive. The 7A grade was a bit of a guess - I didn't find it too hard once I'd figured out the sequence, but mates were struggling to get off the ground, so going lower than 7 seemed like it might be wrong.
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On the cleaning front, I de-mossed Sleight of Hand at Cratcliffe yesterday, an E4 6a Martin Veale arete on right of Hermit's Cave.....
Er, Martin who....?
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Cheers Robin. Good work unearthing the original. I did clean the slopey break but it is still rubbish. There is a horizontal pinch just above which is more useful, then some small pockets, then a good undercut in the break. I can imagine the level of cleanness could make a big difference. The super dry conditions atm meant the moss and crusty lichen was easy to remove (unlike green which comes off better in the damp) and I gave the whole line a good going over in the hope it would stay climbable for a few seasons. Still, there’s plenty of scope for my grading being just plain wrong. It’s in top fettle now and really good, so hopefully some traffic might sort the grade question out.
BTW where does Green 45 top out, is it straight over or does it use the right arete? Am thinking of cleaning it next time I go there.
Oops, sorry Neil. I think the confusion arose from a discussion with Martin about some boulder probs of his a few metres right, in which he mentioned that SoH would clean up as a good highball. Think I put two and two together and made five. Google tells me the correct answer is :
Neil Foster, Howard Lancashire 24/Apr/97
Here's a pic from yesterday:
(http://peakbouldering.info/photos/1096.jpg)
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Good work at Rubicon Ben. How did the bolts look on Kingfisher/Jezebel? Do these routes have lower-offs, or would they be appropriate/useful?
There is a lower off at top of Jezebel (and Kingfisher) - 1 ok petzl bolt with ok biner, 1 shit downward pointing peg with old tat and rubbish biner and 1 bolt stub with nut on - went to put hanger on this today but the whole thing spun round when I put spanner on.
Bolt on Jezebel is old style but didn't seem to bad - would be nice to replace but prob not too dangerous yet ditto pegs on Kingfisher.
Cleaned and climbed Jaws today, again good. Peg a bit shonky but good small wires a move to right. No belay so traversed L to Jezebel one which was kinda ok to do.
Cleaned most of Pleximus Maximus (except bottom steep bit) and tried the original coming in from Jaws but couldn't even find holds Ondra could pull on, swung off and did the direct from a few moves in - this was good. Start could still be pretty hard to get to where I was. When cleaning peg came out in my hand so I put it back in again - it is ok as it cams in (just don't push out if you fall off) No belay on this which is a pain - I had giant baby bounce belay using Caviar and Jezebel belays along with some directional cams - it is easy enough traversing the ledge and the cams are ok but a belay would be nicer!
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BTW where does Green 45 top out, is it straight over or does it use the right arete? Am thinking of cleaning it next time I go there.
Straight up. The top bit isn't hard. Vaguely remember there being a good hold you go up to from the lip, then it's in the bag. Great work on all the cleaning!
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Oops, sorry Neil. I think the confusion arose from a discussion with Martin about some boulder probs of his a few metres right, in which he mentioned that SoH would clean up as a good highball. Think I put two and two together and made five. Google tells me the correct answer is :
Neil Foster, Howard Lancashire 24/Apr/97
No problem Jon. I am just pleased that someone has done it, particularly considering the mossy state it has been in in recent years. You will also have enjoyed the experience of starting with a rubbish looking vegetated rib, only to discover that perfect, featured Cratcliffe grit lies beneath the disguise. I thought that was pretty special!
But it will go back to nature given a couple of wet winters, so unless they want to repeat the excavation folk should get on it whilst they can.
Nice pic btw...
Neil
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Today's installment of the 1980's lime extremes:
Moving Buttress, Chee Dale
Climbed and cleaned whilst doing: Autonomon * HVS 5b "Good rock and fine climbing" and if you abb from the tree at the top you can get to the now unearthed (the chain disappeared into the mud and grass - couldn't pull it free - had to dig it out!) belay of Meat and Two Veg (7b+ looks good and pretty clean) and:
Gander Meat *** E6 6c "A superb finger bending pitch up a clean white wall..."
According to the guide this climbs the groove above the belay to the top of crag but it looked a bit loose and dirty so I lowered of the bolt belay. Cleaned and then climbed it. Really good sustained climbing well protected (once you get them in) by good small wires and 1 peg (seemed ok and can be backed up by wires in same break although prob v. hard to place these on lead - I had them in already)
With the gear in you are prob looking at F7b+ or maybe 7b++ (it looked harder than meat and two veg although I didn't actually try that)
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More scrubbing and ledge shuffling at two tier.
Ninth Life now clean.
Jonny Garside and myself did our best.
Do take a skyhook or a set of superlights, I forgot both....... :wall: and twas spicy indeed.
Really good climbing.
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More scrubbing and ledge shuffling at two tier.
Ninth Life now clean.
Jonny Garside and myself did our best.
Do take a skyhook or a set of superlights, I forgot both....... :wall: and twas spicy indeed.
Really good climbing.
good effort!
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In a 'voting with our feet' protest at the shambolic state of lime calling, went to Rivelin quarries today.
Flex and Feet Neat are both now clean. Pegs on Feet Neat looked OK but luckily we didn't test them.
Peg on flex was well tested by a forum user who shall remain nameless.
Finished off at Bauston Tor where Beast of Bauston is also clean.
A good day out avoiding the bank holiday crowds.
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Cleaned and climbed the reclusive Moffatt classic 'Brock the Start' at Cheedale today.
Makes a fantastic boulder problem up to the break.
As a bonus it's not too vegetated around there at the moment, get to it before the nettles start growing!
Took me a while to figure out the beta, I've got some not particularly great footage if anyone wants to see it.
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I gave Une Crime Passionel at the Cornice a right good clean today. Nice technical climbing, feels about F6c+ with the top two wires in. Hopefully get Fey cleaned at some point too. Would be nice to get these trad routes back on the radar.
Tim on the lead-
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7286/8731572937_d5d40a6c28.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7284/8732690044_0a63e993d8.jpg)
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Good work. If you don't have wires with you you can still do it as a sport route by clipping the bolt on Crowd Control (need a long draw to avoid drag)
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Probably of minor interest but Nan of this parish lugged a rope up to Ravensheugh in his pad last weekend and took one for the team by scrubbing Reiver. Fantastic problem, vid of Dan V on it here:
reiver on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/13008609)
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Good effort, I'll have to take advantage of that cleaning (as long as I can get anyone else keen for the walk-in!)
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Probably of minor interest but Nan of this parish lugged a rope up to Ravensheugh in his pad last weekend and took one for the team by scrubbing Reiver. Fantastic problem, vid of Dan V on it here:
reiver on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/13008609)
nice one, did you film much of your county trip Chris?
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Chee Tor
Tequila Mockingbird - Had half a session cleaning this a few weeks back and finished the deed today. Well good and spiiicy getting to first bolt ;)
Boo and Boobs - Someone else cleaned these, had a quick blast on Boo and fell off, it is pretty clean though, didn't get on Boobs
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Probably of minor interest but Nan of this parish lugged a rope up to Ravensheugh in his pad last weekend and took one for the team by scrubbing Reiver. Fantastic problem, vid of Dan V on it here:
reiver on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/13008609)
nice one, did you film much of your county trip Chris?
I didn't, mainly as I was too lazy to lug my camera / tripod on the walk ins. I also figured that when I wasn't climbing I'd be spotting. Mark / Neil got some footage between them that I think Neil is editing together.
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Lakes hard classics cleaned..
From Andy Mitchell on UKC http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=552379 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=552379)
Don't miss out on the clean and dry routes in Cumbria. The following routes have been done this week and are clean and chalked ;
All Reecastle routes.
Western Union and Phoenix in Obsidian ( and If 6 where 9 not done this week !!) at Iron.
Sixpence, at Pavey cleaned and done by Nathan, Dave and Matt yesterday.
Bowderstone crag (Hells Wall etc) always clean.
Scafell bone dry.
Burnt crag bone dry and clean, peg in Burning desire is in good condition.
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Cleaned 'Half Man Half Cake' and 'Parthian Shit' at Wyming Brook this week. Makes a good evening session, the latter feels hard in the warm though.
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Cleaned My Pet Daddy read the other thread for more info on location, etc
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Yew cogar,
Love sculpture and pegged out now clean.
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Cleaned 'Half Man Half Cake' and 'Parthian Shit' at Wyming Brook this week. Makes a good evening session, the latter feels hard in the warm though.
Hey that's mine :) What did you think of it? Definitely one for cold weather I thought. Worthwhile? I liked it in a quintessential "short boulder problem in the sky" sort of way...
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I didn't want to get committed to the slopey top in the heat so reversed onto the gear. Seems quite nice though, I will probably head back on a fresher evening later in the year. King line!
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Small line! Glad you thought it was worth a try, there are some seams over the top.
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Went to Hoghton today. Obviously very impressive but unlikely to ever be good with the vegetation and access situation. Nevertheless, The Wasp looked clean from the bottom so got on that. Whoever cleaned it must have forgotten to also clean the crux! Gave it a scrub on ab and unearthed some gear and holds in the top section.
Looking on UKC, someone else backed off it yesterday!
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Gave Jug Jockey a good scrub today. I was more cleaning than climbing so the odd foothold might need a quick clean but all the handholds should be good.
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nice one! how did you find it?
wilderness years is now chalked is anyone has done every other sport route in the peak.
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perfect day @ gardoms given a good brush and chalking on sunday. get to it!
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Gave Mouldwarp Wall at Long Wall a thoroughly good clean today and did it with the first 2 pre clipped as they are quite rusty. There is currently no hangers on the rusty stumps at the belay so left a bail beiner on the last bolt. A very good route.
Also cleaned A Bout de Souffle and Gob has some new bolts in too.
Bone dry.
Anyone keen for going down Sunday give me a shout.
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Cleaned and climbed 'Esoteric Slab' at Whyming Brook today.
It deserves some attention as it's a brilliant highball. Strong line, good climbing and a crux rock up to a huge jug at the top.
I reckon 4 pads and a spotter should see you right for the ground up. E4 6b in the guide, probably about Font 6c for comparison.
I've got some footage I'll stick up at some point hopefully with a few other bits and pieces of peak esoterica.
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Good work. Have always fancied doing this.
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Cleaned Green Chapel at Stanton in the Woods today. Not perfect but it is climbable.
Most of the SiTW circuit was looking clean and well chalked too.
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Isla Grace at Froggatt is now in good condition and makes a techy font 6c+ highball. Close to the car for a quick evening hit...
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Cleaned Green Chapel at Stanton in the Woods today. Not perfect but it is climbable.
Most of the SiTW circuit was looking clean and well chalked too.
did you look at eyes to the skies? I have designs on doing this at some point. Be nice to know someone else has had a go!
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Eyes is typically a fairly quick job to clean compared to Green chapel, no moss just pine litter.
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Cleaned Green Chapel at Stanton in the Woods today. Not perfect but it is climbable.
Most of the SiTW circuit was looking clean and well chalked too.
did you look at eyes to the skies? I have designs on doing this at some point. Be nice to know someone else has had a go!
Ran out of time before I got a chance to look at / clean Eyes to the Skies. Hopefully get back there for it some point soon.
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Isla Grace at Froggatt is now in good condition and makes a techy font 6c+ highball. Close to the car for a quick evening hit...
Went and did this tonight, thanks guy for cleaning it up. Its deffo worth doing, despite the proximity to the road.
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BjHqeBxIYAInHEZ.jpg:large)
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Cleaned Green Chapel at Stanton in the Woods today. Not perfect but it is climbable.
Most of the SiTW circuit was looking clean and well chalked too.
did you look at eyes to the skies? I have designs on doing this at some point. Be nice to know someone else has had a go!
Ran out of time before I got a chance to look at / clean Eyes to the Skies. Hopefully get back there for it some point soon.
let me know if you do.
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As suggested by Kristain I've set up a new sticky thread for reporting when boulder probs and highballs have been cleaned up.
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Not technically a route but I cleaned up Superbrook this morning.
I gave Superbrook its annual clean this evening, quite a lot of moss to remove. Just need a spell of dry weather now and it should be fine.
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Not technically a route but I cleaned up Superbrook this morning.
I gave Superbrook its annual clean this evening, quite a lot of moss to remove. Just need a spell of dry weather now and it should be fine.
Good work Cofe. More people should do this problem. I find it odd that stuff like Mossatrocity is carpeted in chalk year round while Superbrook sits quietly neglected.
There's some beta of a handsome chap sending this on Vimeo if anyone wants the numbers ;)
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I think it suffers from the toupée of grass and stuff which goes well back above it. Means it gets muckier quicker and dries slowly. Always thought it looks class but the one time I went to do it the top was wet. Proud line.
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Does anyone have any experience of cleaning spraypaint off grit?
Currently using the only option I can think of- stiff wooden bristled brush and elbow grease- but wondered if there was some kind of better solution. :please:
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Laughing At the Rain at Craig-y-Biceps is now clean and good to go. If planning to try the 7c+ to the left then take a big brush and some gardening gloves.
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Laughing At the Rain at Craig-y-Biceps is now clean and good to go. If planning to try the 7c+ to the left then take a big brush and some gardening gloves.
Is it worth doing?
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Yes, if you happen to be down that way. Its roadside and not far from the tor. I'm not sure it was worth cleaning, but now its clean... Nice boulder on undercuts, jug, couple of moves of a kneebar (pad advised), ramble to the top on just about clean jugs.
Either warm up elsewhere or warm up on it, as could not be fucked to clean anything else there.
Also did Lets Get Fossilised at Beginners Wall that day (sun), and its been re-bolted and is clean and dry - worth doing if you haven't already. Few good moves.
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Also did Lets Get Fossilised at Beginners Wall that day (sun), and its been re-bolted and is clean and dry - worth doing if you haven't already. Few good moves.
Don't mention it!
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And a very nice cleaning and bolting job it is too!
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Santiano on the Nook now destined for instant popularity.
A provisional grade of 7a has been given.
On Sunday it was more like 7b as it had its first reascent for decades on slippy muddy gunge. Should get a bit more grippy.
N.B not my doing, but a fine effort indeed.
A team gave Lockless a scrub. Bit wet at the start still.
I gave the very overlooked but fine boulder route "The Dukes of Earl(Gray)" a scrub.
Bolts are ok but the runout to the belay is quite silly, especially as the finishing jugs are choked with mud.
It really needs a two bolt belay bringing down (Rockfax topo is wrong) or stick clip a long sling off the single bolt belay.
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Sorry for the punter question, sort of off topic but the knowledge is here;
The last two bolt hangers on Esmerunga/Stung are well rusty, can I just replace the hangers? or is it sign the bolt itself is in need?
Keen to learn bolting, looks like an easy bit of wall/rock to work on.
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Rusty hangers probably mean that the whole bolt is corroded.
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Rusty hangers probably mean that the whole bolt is corroded.
okay thanks
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As mentioned before.
Nettle Buttress
Not too familiar with this but Stung is particularly bad.
This has see a fair bit traffic recently and I am surprised that so many seem not to notice or care.
It would be great for you to help sort some stuff out as we are all equipped and ready to go.
But will you join the queue of all the others that have said the same thing???
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replied to you on the other thread
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A Newish Route on the Nook.
A Cure For Foot Jams 7b+, done today by Zips.
Good fun steep shenanigans in the vicinity of the de funked route "Cure For Arapiles"
Usual rules apply. Get established on jugs below/near the belay but lower off last bolt (to save your rope and assist stripping, WCJ cornice style).
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An additional 3 bolt and belay added to "The Dukes of Earl(Gray)"
New belay and 4th bolt on Michael Foot Jam. Both routes clean and dry by Nook standards.
Kalymnos 8a is a worthwhile 7a+ to the left of Santiano and joins that route at the last bolt.
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Gave Lost in Thought Lost in Time 7b+ a good scrub and clean up at Victoria Cave Atterimire. Great route and not easy for the grade but all clean, dry and chalked so get to it now. The 8a which starts up Lost looks great but would need to be rebolted but not sure if this is allowed in here due to the caves archaelogical status?
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Regarding the Nook:
Anybody using a RockFax will struggle to find the correct lines on the middle and left of the crag.
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James Turnbull and Dave Brown cleaned and led Golden Mile at Chee Tor last night. It's now chalked and the nettles at the base have been flattened.
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Don't suppose they commented about the condition of the thread?
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They replaced it - sorry, should have mentioned that. It is slightly longer than the old one apparently.
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Correction to my last post due to me not listening properly to James. The thread has NOT been replaced as they didn't have any spare tat with then at the time. They backed it up with an additional sling when they were cleaning it and then removed that when seconding. They said the original thread looks 'ok'.
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Honeymoon Blues has had a total dust down with the lower thread replaced and a new thread cleaned out of a muddy pocket below the 33 year old peg as a back up for the final moves.
Final holds also cleaned off of various bits of mud etc.
Route is in good nick and totally climbable with a few wires required for the start.
First ascentionist was ok with the placing of the back up thread.
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Easy Rider on the Cornice cleaned. Good route to try if you have done Jug Jockey (seems harder?) Care needed on the slightly flexing flake in the break after leaving JJ - feels like it might bust off although has been reinforced with a lot of sika, you have been warned! The last bit is OK now its been dusted down but was filthy earlier
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Just a thought but this thread is almost all about a limited area - Peak/Yorkshire. The thread could and should be a more representative resource than just these areas. I know there's nothing stopping anyone from anywhere posting about their cleaning/re-equipping handiwork but still, the peak-centric focus is off-putting to outsiders - I've hardly ever bothered to mention the hundreds of re-equipped/cleaned routes that I know about in n.wales because it feels like there's no expectation from forum users to see anything other than Cheedale routes on here, and I get the impression it'd just get overlooked. It'd be valuable for all activists to document their work here, so how about renaming and splitting the thread to cover re-equipped/cleaned routes in a few of the major regions such as Yorkshire, Peak, N.Wales, Lakes, Scotland, South Wales, South West?
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Makes sense, though a retrospective splitting of the thread into component areas would be a massive job. Maybe better to lock this one and start with new area-specific ones. Anyone else have thoughts on that?
I don't know about splitting the re-equipping bits and pieces but certainly anything that was cleaned more than 6-12 months ago will almost certainly need cleaning again.
Having threads split by area would seem logical.
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Easy Rider on the Cornice cleaned. Good route to try if you have done Jug Jockey (seems harder?) Care needed on the slightly flexing flake in the break after leaving JJ - feels like it might bust off although has been reinforced with a lot of sika, you have been warned! The last bit is OK now its been dusted down but was filthy earlier
Have to say I thought this was an awful route when I went on it shortly after the fa. Sharp, dangerous (the block needs pinning not a shoddy glue job) and blatantly manufactured. To some extent you can't avoid manufacturing on loose peak lime where gluing is needed, but it's just a waste of rock when it's done badly and the created moves are horrible. Treated with care the line should have been a safe decent 8, instead the fa opted for a lazy quick and dirty throw away 7c+.
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IIRC Mark went on it a couple of years ago and decided it was too dangerous for anyone passing g below to be worth going on.. If anything falls off that roof on a busy weekend it will land straight on a walker's head.
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Its really dangerous - I had one cleaning go and binned it; this is primed to kill some walker. Its directly above the path, and there are some big blocks waiting to come off. A good candidate for de-gearing. Lots of other routes to do.
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Its directly above the path, and there are some big blocks waiting to come off. A good candidate for de-gearing.
Sounds sensible, apart from preserving the lives of innocent bystanders, (or belayers) better to preserve access than have sh*t routes on loose rock at a sport crag.
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Abbed and weeded Hamadryad in Twll Mawr today, from top to below the crux p2
(the bits that mattered basically only a 100m ab rope)).
Safe passage past the brambles and gorse should now be possible.
Shunted my way back up, classic Joe Brown E3, never ridiculous or deadly, but never a path.
Hosey
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Cleaned Twisted 8a at Malham. Probably hadn't had an ascent for years, was filthy up there. All dry, clean and chalked now. Props to Ally Smith for rebolting this
Twisted 8a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcW_zEnE1pw#ws)
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The following Francis Haden and Gordon Jenkin routes at Brean have been re-equped with Titanium glue-ins by their first ascentionists.
Do You Get Vouchers With This (tbc)
Brean Dream
Kraken
Bikini Atoll
A Heavy Read
On Distant Voices I replaced the 8mm caving bolt with a 14mm x 110mm Titanium glue-in, which should be more confidence-inducing. I re-excavated the friend placement on the upper slab but did not replace the fixed thread. This could be removed and threaded on lead if you so desire. The peg on the lower wall is decaying but can be backed-up.
The route as it now stands is a trad. adventure with some excitement on the upper slab but enough reliable gear to keep you off the deck. E3 6a and recommended if you like that sort of thing.
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Interesting choice of bolt - how much do the titaniums cost?
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The bolts are Titan climbing eternas (http://www.titanclimbing.com/Titan%20Climbing%20products%20-%20Eterna%20Titanium%20glue%20in%20bolt.html) glued with Hilti RE500. The choice was Francis', informed by his experiences in Thailand, Vietnam and Hong Kong.
I understand many people think an appropriate grade stainless steel is more than adequate but his view is in a warm marine environment (Brean!) Titanium is the best long-term option.
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On Distant Voices I replaced the 8mm caving bolt with a 14mm x 110mm Titanium glue-in, which should be more confidence-inducing.
I don't know enough about the venue or the route to pass comment, but (!) I can think of places where if this is considered a like-for-like replacement, we're going to see routes changing character. A tricky one for sure though, it wouldn't make much sense to replace one dodgy bolt with another either.
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If you look at the closet equivalents bolt wise, prices for glue-ins are roughly:
316 grade stainless steel €4
1.4462 duplex stainless steel €9
Titanium €9
The failure mode of concern is SCC (stress corrosion cracking), made infamous by the collapse of swimming pool roofs. It requires humidity, chloride ions, heat and stress to drive it. The 2 more expensive materials are resistant to this, the commonly used 316 isn't. SCC is quite complex, and isn't fully understood. Until fairly recently, it was not considered a problem at temperatures below 40C, now there is less certainty. We do know that areas in the UK with large numbers of 316 bolts in a marine location (Portland, Upper Pen Trywn) have an excellent safety record, but it makes sense to be cautious and if you can use one of the resistant materials for marine environments. The Titan ones look pretty good, glad to see them getting used in the UK.
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Re-cleaned the John Allen E3 6b Parallel Universe at Rivelin the other day. This goes up the front of the buttress between Only Here for the Smear and Moontan buttresses. It gets a poor write up in the guide, presumably only on the basis that it hasn’t been clean any time since the FA. It’s actually really nice and is a good airy 6C highball with a couple of pads. Worth doing before it retreats under the moss again for another 30 years, if you’re into this sort of thing.
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The bolts are Titan climbing eternas (http://www.titanclimbing.com/Titan%20Climbing%20products%20-%20Eterna%20Titanium%20glue%20in%20bolt.html) glued with Hilti RE500. The choice was Francis', informed by his experiences in Thailand, Vietnam and Hong Kong.
Not the best choice of glue though especially with British temperatures. Strong as houses but it's a bit too runny and slow setting for climbing bolts.
It was designed for use in construction when fixing re-bar and such like into deep holes. That's why it's very runny and slow setting so it will penetrate into great depths.
The responsible bolters amongst us will want to check that the resin has gone off before pulling the ropes not wait an hour or more. It may take 48h for it fully cure!
I like to work with a thick glue to patch up with. RE 500 is bubble gum red, looks fab on white Limestone.
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RE 500 is bubble gum red, looks fab on white Limestone.
I'm so sad I could probably answer a pub quiz question about which routes on pen trwyn/LPT have red resin (presumably re500) #uselessknowledgeretained.
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On Distant Voices I replaced the 8mm caving bolt with a 14mm x 110mm Titanium glue-in, which should be more confidence-inducing.
I don't know enough about the venue or the route to pass comment, but (!) I can think of places where if this is considered a like-for-like replacement, we're going to see routes changing character. A tricky one for sure though, it wouldn't make much sense to replace one dodgy bolt with another either.
It will be a different character from when I lead it 10 years ago when I thought fluffing the top of the slab could well deposit me on the shingle 25m below. I imagine the first ascentionist was pretty confident in his bolt though and my aim was to return the route to its original excitement level using fixed gear with a sensible lifespan. Even with the new bolt some metres below, tip-toeing up the sandy breccia will remain an authentic Brean trad. experience.
Not the best choice of glue though especially with British temperatures. Strong as houses but it's a bit too runny and slow setting for climbing bolts.
It was designed for use in construction when fixing re-bar and such like into deep holes. That's why it's very runny and slow setting so it will penetrate into great depths.
The responsible bolters amongst us will want to check that the resin has gone off before pulling the ropes not wait an hour or more. It may take 48h for it fully cure!
I like to work with a thick glue to patch up with. RE 500 is bubble gum red, looks fab on white Limestone.
I understand your concern regarding bolting practices. Regrettable incidents in the UK demonstrate that even the very experienced can make mistakes. The approach was very thorough and systematic, as you would expect from a mining engineer. We were the last to leave and the 'before' and 'after' test samples were curing nicely at 5.30pm as it was getting dark. Francis and Gordon returned the following morning, in the rain, to check their handiwork.
Temperatures were not quite Krabi at Christmas but considerably balmier than Derbyshire. It was sunny and warm enough to sit in a t-shirt at the bottom of the crag most of the day, too hot for harder climbing. I can see that pink bubblegum is not ideal on Peak limestone but it's not a bad match on Brean which is variously ochre, red and brown.
A couple of further points:
Add Tide Rising and Leaving Hanoi to the list.
The slightly wobbly Eco glue-in (4th bolt) on Brean Dream was pull-tested and gave out at 30kn. Not bad for 19 years old.
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Re-cleaned the John Allen E3 6b Parallel Universe at Rivelin the other day. This goes up the front of the buttress between Only Here for the Smear and Moontan buttresses. It gets a poor write up in the guide, presumably only on the basis that it hasn’t been clean any time since the FA. It’s actually really nice and is a good airy 6C highball with a couple of pads. Worth doing before it retreats under the moss again for another 30 years, if you’re into this sort of thing.
Nice one Jon, I thought this was pretty good. Nice highball circuit at Rivelin actually. Money For Old Rope, just to the left, looks like it would be a good highball too, but had to run away from the rain before we could try it. Might try next weekend.
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Yeah, I really rate Rivelin for highballing. Loads of things to go at affordable grades, some desperates and mostly only needing two or three pads.
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cleaned and climbed dog dirt, go cat and in the drink today at dog's dinner buttress.
Go Cat is excellent and worth doing, in the drink i thought wasn't very good but it did have 1 very good move at mid height off a cool RH ear but that's about it. Dog Dirt i just read the description on ukc that kristian wrote and he says span right to undercuts at the start, wish i knew that before getting on this, ended up going just strait up direct, felt the living end. maybe a tough 7B/+ boulder problem!
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Did you start left of the block with a small edge RH and a crap side pull LH and leap LH into the hard to contact slot?
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No still on block. I just didn't go out right to the under cuts was a cool move. Hard rock over to a decent sidepull
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ok. Zippy had to wedge a block behind the slab to reach the first holds.
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Gary didn't understand why I put a belay below the roof. Did not fancy surfing fridge sized blocks.
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Anyone know who has re-equipped a couple of the routes on lammergeyer buttress at wcj? Looks like a good job , would be good to get the rest of this crag scrubbed up and re bolted. Keen to help out myself if I can get hold of some bolts.
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That would be me. "Vindicator" hard 7c and a new one to the right "skyfall" 7c+.
I also have a closed project in the middle which would have been done if I had not been knocked down by flu.
You are welcome to have a go at reequipping. I can get you all the bolts you need.
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Hope the flu situation is improving.Good work on the new routes they look good keen to give them a go. Do you think any of the first ascentionists would disagree with rebolting? No one ever goes there anymore but I remember having some good days there back in the 90s when everything on rubicon wall felt beyond me. It's an ok bit of rock with some good bouldery routes. What bolts are you using? I have some 10 mm stainless expansions and a few petzl hangers I'm happy to use otherwise I'll try and get some off you sometime.
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Much better thanks.
I can't imagine there would be to much fuss replacing the various bits of fixed gear with good bolts. Only thing is Paul Mitchell did a few of them and we all know his stance. Chris wright is not bothered. Not sure about Richard Davies? I had a brief look at "The Fall". There is some potential to make something new and harder there by dispensing with the band of very crumbly loose undercuts out left and crafting a more direct line.
I have tonnes of 12mm expansions and hangers plus resin bolts too.
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Hi,
Was chatting to dan middleton who suggested asking on here about borrowing a drill and getting some bolts for regearing down in cheedale. Couple of loose bits and bobs which could do with replacing.
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Your best bet is to PM kc and let him know what you have in mind as he has the pbf kit. It has been in use a lot of late so you might have to wait a while.
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Central buttress WCJ yesterday, El Mocho led La Chute with some effort. Shiny new bolt on the crux and lower, but no repeats logged on UKC since 1994. Hilariously below Behemoth (which we did after) in the new graded list. Harder moves and pumpier. Did this always have such a horrendous move across the roof? Good old Peak lime E5s...
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Cleaned "A Tall Story" at Rubicon this evening. Dusted down and cleaned off a couple of loose flakes. Nut slots cleaned out. Very good climbing with good but unobvious gear. PM for gear beta......
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Not really rebolting but the jug on the Rumble in the Jungle dyno is disconcertingly wobbly, looks like it might need some TLC before it flies off in someones hand - not really sure what the best thing to do is
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Climbed Spazz Energy on the right end of Two Teir yesterday and gave it a good scrub.
I have no idea how much fixed gear this route originally had but I only placed one wire. The rest was all sold enough but the two bolts to the left were a bit old and rusty.
Who has the peak bolt fund kit if I were to offer to replace them next week?
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Spazz or Spizz? Spazz is a classic Gibson squeezed in abomination IMHO that needs de-equipped. It detracts from Spizz, which is/was a classic E5 #yorkshiredisease
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My mistake. The E5.
The only bolts on Spazz (7a+) that interfered with Spizz (E5) were at the top and as there is a really good thread at that height it made no diffrence to how it climbed.
The bolts in the groove (on Lightweight) were looking rusty. Were they always there?
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Righto - good work.
Not sure about those bolts in the groove. Just remember doing Spazz a few years ago and feeling dirty afterwards - such a squeezed non-line.
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From UKC - Graham Hoey has done a major clean up at Tintwistle Knar - "All the best routes in the central and right-hand bays are now clean enough to enjoy. You won't get a better day's climbing at HVS to E5, with some of the best and least spoiled quarried routes on gritstone. Let's get out there and keep them in good condition!"
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Not really rebolting but the jug on the Rumble in the Jungle dyno is disconcertingly wobbly, looks like it might need some TLC before it flies off in someones hand - not really sure what the best thing to do is
Just to give this a bump, would anyone with the necessary tekkers be keen to have a go at sorting this? I'd be happy to provide a belay etc. for said hero/ heroine! Keen to get Rumble polished off this summer but that jug is definitely coming off if I start swinging my carcass around on it again!!
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So I tried gluing this back on in its flapping state a handful of years ago by peeling it forward and applying glue underneath (I'm amazed people were still willing to jump at it the way it was rocking).
IM(uneducated)O it'll need to be removed (any fat RPs at the minute?), cleaned and then re-glued rather than a repeat of the temporary fix ( :guilty: ) mentioned above.
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From Robin of Greenwood on FB:
For all the other ex-pat trad climbers out there who are waiting for the Cornice to dry, get yourself over to Chee Tor.
Over the past week a few of us have climbed, cleaned, and replaced threads on the following: Golden Mile, Mortlock's Arete, Ceramic, Meditation, Approaching, Shake, Splintered Perspex, and Queer Street. There's probably a few more I'm forgetting, but you get the idea...
Despite the rain this weekend the crag has been in mint condition both days, which is more than can be said for the Cornice.
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:2thumbsup:
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For anyone after an easy E5, Tuba Mirum at Stoney had 3 repeats at the weekend and is well chalked. The lower wall is still a bit snappy though.
Party in the Park on High Tor also climbed a couple of times in last 2 weeks. Well chalked and well good!
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From Robin of Greenwood on FB:
For all the other ex-pat trad climbers out there who are waiting for the Cornice to dry, get yourself over to Chee Tor.
Over the past week a few of us have climbed, cleaned, and replaced threads on the following: Golden Mile, Mortlock's Arete, Ceramic, Meditation, Approaching, Shake, Splintered Perspex, and Queer Street. There's probably a few more I'm forgetting, but you get the idea...
Despite the rain this weekend the crag has been in mint condition both days, which is more than can be said for the Cornice.
Such a great crag. One of my favourite in the Peak.
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Put a new thread and krab on the belay for 42nd Street today, but didn't have a knife to cut the old tat out, so it would be worth carrying a knife if anyone on here does it.
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Put a new thread and krab on the belay for 42nd Street today, but didn't have a knife to cut the old tat out, so it would be worth carrying a knife if anyone on here does it.
nice one, fond memories of that route
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Cleaned Roadrunner at High tor, including pulling all the grass out of the upper half of A6. Backed up the tat on the peg (I also had forgot my knife), but didn't have anything to replace the thread with (needs 50cm of thin tape and a bit of wire to thread it through the placement).
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A Millers Tale recleaned and was "dusted and busted" this morning by Conners.
Andy Barker gave his blessing to back the peg up with a new bolt and the thread on the top wall replaced. It is most certainly E6 to onsight. Great route, 3 stars.
Excalibur on Moat Buttress will be tidied up tomorrow. All old 8mms replaced with new stainless and the situ wire backed up by new bolt. 2 new threads and a new belay. Just one wire for top groove which looks ok.
Looks a fantastic route but may need a few more days to dry. Thanks to Andy P for the go ahead.
HM
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A Millers Tale recleaned and was "dusted and busted" this morning by Conners.
Andy Barker gave his blessing to back the peg up with a new bolt and the thread on the top wall replaced. It is most certainly E6 to onsight. Great route, 3 stars
Was the bolt really necessary? The peg can be backed up by wires
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Good god can no one do anything of help anymore!
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A Millers Tale recleaned and was "dusted and busted" this morning by Conners.
Andy Barker gave his blessing to back the peg up with a new bolt and the thread on the top wall replaced. It is most certainly E6 to onsight. Great route, 3 stars
Was the bolt really necessary? The peg can be backed up by wires
Quite.
I think it would be great if a lot of the old trad test pieces remained that way. Just because the FA endorses the retro bolt, that's a very small sample of opinion. If it's the equipping/re-equipping of sport routes, then do it right, but let's not just go ahead and start r-bolting everything on the say so of one person.
It's great to have the full spectrum of the trad experience on Peak rock, and fantastic that the whole re-cleaning effort seems to be gaining some momentum, so wouldn't it be great to preserve that where possible?
Besides, I need the excuse of tricky gear when I'm feeling wimpish.
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What's the sketch with getting to the bottom of Excalibur, does it not start above water?
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In fairness to HM re: Excalibur, he felt it polite to flag his intentions via a PM.
'Tis of no consequence to me as I live 12,000 miles away and haven't climbed for 24 years. I said 'go for your life mate', take care.
Its not like there's now three bolts on Skinhead Moonstomp ...
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In fairness to HM re: Excalibur, he felt it polite to flag his intentions via a PM.
'Tis of no consequence to me as I live 12,000 miles away and haven't climbed for 24 years. I said 'go for your life mate', take care.
Its not like there's now three bolts on Skinhead Moonstomp ...
..which had a very stylish ascent at the weekend - not by me, I might add. Looked great. Fantastic to be back at the big cliff. Was going to PM you.
I don't know about fairness to HM. It was a good opportunity to say that many people don't like the assumption that any route is fair game to be retro'd on the FA's say so. I was referring to Miller's Tale. I don't know about Excalibur, as I've never been on it - the tights always put me off ;D
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When the water level is low around Rubicon the start of Excalibur is easily reachable. You may want to chuck a few rocks and bits of drift wood in the mud below the start to keep your boots clean.
Last autumn I was starting to prepare Drawbridge the 7c to the left again and was ok. Still needs a few more bolts before it's ready. Best bit is it climbs out left over the water and turns back right so you can lower off over land.
Please make sure there are no nesting birds below these routes.
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In fairness to HM re: Excalibur, he felt it polite to flag his intentions via a PM.
'Tis of no consequence to me as I live 12,000 miles away and haven't climbed for 24 years. I said 'go for your life mate', take care.
Its not like there's now three bolts on Skinhead Moonstomp ...
..which had a very stylish ascent at the weekend - not by me, I might add. Looked great. Fantastic to be back at the big cliff. Was going to PM you.
I don't know about fairness to HM. It was a good opportunity to say that many people don't like the assumption that any route is fair game to be retro'd on the FA's say so. I was referring to Miller's Tale. I don't know about Excalibur, as I've never been on it - the tights always put me off ;D
The tights Dave, surely not?
The premise of my previous post is that it's of no consequence to me. The 'youngstars' mind the crags these days ...
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The premise of my previous post is that it's of no consequence to me. The 'youngstars' mind the crags these days ...
As if. KC is no spring chicken now and HM lacks both youth and star quality. ;D
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And most of the youngsters are to lazy. The rogue bolters tend to be 50+.
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Anyone got zippy's contact info he lives near me and said if i needed to borrow his drill give him a message but he never gave me his number! D'oh!
thinking of putting a few bolts in.
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Anyone got zippy's contact info he lives near me and said if i needed to borrow his drill give him a message but he never gave me his number! D'oh!
thinking of putting a few bolts in.
Ive just texted you it
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We cleaned Dragonflight and replaced the threads in the upper break today.
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Drawbridge down when the levee breaks 7C has been reequipped.
Use the stepping stones at low tide and climb out over the water. The lower off will bring you back down over land.
If anyone fancies a go, could they take a collection of spanners (old 8mm troll Lego's, cassin rusty rings). Leave the Petzl bolt for the girdle as that wants to be clipped.
Please retreat from this area if there is any sign of nesting and leave the flora and fauna intact. Triple S I and all that.
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Ignore the topo in the latest guide. It is an independent line and does not traverse out of the choss pile to the right.
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Whats the deal with the routes to the right? Do they finish strait up over the bulge like the line in the guide(i have the old wrong fax guide) or do they traverse all the way rightward also theres another line of bolts between the e6 and let the tripe increase what is this? Or is it somebodys proj?
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http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/WCJ-Moat%20Buttress.htm
This is similar to the new guide and also shows line 1 traversing out of the choss. It starts direct from the waters edge.
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Chatsworth Edge - Spiral Route. Some interesting industrial archaeology revealed from beneath carpets of vegetation....
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Does Chatsworth Edge catch any sort of breeze?
Always been put off by the lack of gap between Midgie season/ green north facing rock season.
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Continuing KC's Lammergeyer revival, I've rebolted and glued up The Fall, possibly nudging 8a now a band of chossy undercuts have gone. Good and fingery
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Rebolted 'A Man Called Horse' a fingery vert 7b+ at Moving Buttress, Cheedale. It looks like it originally finished right of the top bolt to a good flake, but there is potential for a bouldery direct finish, at a similar grade (there's a good rest).
The wall to the right is harder and even fingery-er, My Lovely Horse 7c.
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Great Mark, care to suggest stars for them?
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Worth a star each. There's a bunch of good routes in the 7s up there, Dope, Witch in Stitch as well as the popular Never Look Back
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Sanctuary wall, Devon.
Worth a plug to get more people up there.
There's a well equipped link up from Free the Spirit into Corvoisier that goes at about 7b+ (E6 6b probably feels right). If you like 30 metre long overhanging jug fests, it's your cup of tea. Loads of threads and pegs in very good condition, with good back ups available too.
One of the best pitches of it's type (sporty trad on a very atmospheric steep cliff) that I've ever done
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Booby Prize, Marsland, North Devon
Did this yesterday. Absolutely stunning route. Really unique climbing in a stunning place. About 7b+, very pumpy due to the nature of the holds (boobs). It is currently clean and chalked, so make the most! It gets pretty dirty due to the mud at the top. Preplaced rope for the top is highly recomended/essential. The pegs are in good condition (pretty new titanium), and there's a few decent placements too. We did it after abbing down, cleaning/chalking/figuring out the moves. WOuld be bloody deperate as an onsight!
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Good effort! Always thought this looked amazing. Whose are the Ti pegs?
At closer to my payscale, have you done Brainchild (Bude)? This is another route entirely reliant on pegs that - when I last looked, from the ground - seemed to have crumbled to rust streaks.
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Don't know, but they've been there for a few years I think. They are very crucial. There would be no decent gear until about 12 metres without them.
Such a brilliant route, definitely worth making the effort to go and do
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Flame Arete at Hawkcliffe was clean on arrival today. I abbed it to brush it, but needn't have bothered, strictly speaking.
It's like a physically harder version of Strapadictomy, in a cool wooded setting. Very safe. Definitely worth travelling for.
Note that Squirrel Crack has Jackdaws nesting in it so isn't really a goer.
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I cleaned stuffed badger and Kristian cleaned summer wine today at nettle butress. Get on them there ace
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Read on FB today that Gary Gibson has spent 70-80k on bolts and pegs . :o
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I cleaned Feeding The Pony and Small Things at Black Rocks this weekend. Quite keen for the latter if anyone fancies it let me know (Feeding the Pony felt depserate...)
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I’ve had a rope on FDP before. Bottom move is fun (nowhere near the 7b mentioned by rockfax), the top dyno is pretty eliminate though and can be staticed by gastoning the layaway.
The Eighth Fold is bloody brilliant well protected bouldering if you’re in market for obscure Black Rocks E6. Probably unrepeated since we did it and not green so probably good to go without ab clean. Protection is a good ballnut 2 and RP 2 in slot out right. You can climb up and place gear from the right then downclimb and lead with it clipped.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2181/5786474412_69dbfabd06_z.jpg)
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I’ve had a rope on FDP before. Bottom move is fun (nowhere near the 7b mentioned by rockfax), the top dyno is pretty eliminate though and can be staticed by gastoning the layaway.
Are you talking about Small Things there (not FTP?)?
Eighth Fold looks good, I'd be keen to try that
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Sorry yes I mean Small Things
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Weedkiller (the 7c+ route, not the boulder problem traverse) has a new bolt under the roof and is nice and clean
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Sanctuary wall, Devon.
Worth a plug to get more people up there.
There's a well equipped link up from Free the Spirit into Corvoisier that goes at about 7b+ (E6 6b probably feels right). If you like 30 metre long overhanging jug fests, it's your cup of tea. Loads of threads and pegs in very good condition, with good back ups available too.
One of the best pitches of it's type (sporty trad on a very atmospheric steep cliff) that I've ever done
Just seen this!
Great work Ged :2thumbsup: Sounds like a much better way of accessing the top of Courvoisier too. What a crap name :P
What's the state of play on Flaming? I remember the pegs being dire on the bottom groove (if you climb it that way, instead of the wall). They were left over from White/Littlejohn, attempting to access the top of CV with a traverse along Madness. The top peg on Flaming Drambuie is important, especially if you do the direct finish - which I think is amazing - but I'm worried about the hold it's behind.
Shock horror. I'd advocate a bolt there instead! :o I'd have a look, but it's a long way from Sheffield.
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Lammergeyer Buttress Update for your BMC & RF Guides (NB=New bolts) courtesy of the Peak Bolt Fund.
2. As Summers Die 7?
This has been bolted with low grade steel bolts and as far as known nobody has been able to repeat it? The bolts don’t follow the most probable line of least resistance and there are rock scars present. Although a previous guide describes “demands an unreasonable degree of flexibility”
3. One way reflection E5 6b
One bolt in the middle of the wall after the crux. Very slate style. Not climbed in 30 years and ivy has taken over the start. Recently top roped at a very worthwhile 7a/+. This would be next on the list for retro if no one objects.
Unknown project up blank wall of snappy non holds??
Pinch an inch 7b+ is a direct start to: (NB)
4. Final Apocalypse 7a+ (NB)
Now straightened out to a lower off above.
5.6.7.8 Same. A bit blocky horror show around here although the flake line finishing out right Periscope Voyeur maybe worth a look.
To the right of the flake line is a wall of good solid compact rock.
New line up compact rock 8a+ (NB)
9. Living with a porcupine 7a (old gear)
One very hard move at start to easier climbing on poor rock. Someone else may clean this up but it won’t be great.
10. Tree Surgeon 7b+ (NB)
Lots harder than previous guide books had speculated with their imperial to metric conversion. May not look like much but this one is good and bouldery. Shares the same starting holds as the next route but immediately pulls left contrary to the BMC description. (Note RF topo numbers are back to front)
11. Once upon a time 7b+ (NB)
Again much harder than expected. The bolts force the climber to join the previous route at the last bolt. Perched up on the right is a pillar of doom. Don’t touch! Apart from this the climbing is good.
12. The Fall 8a (NB)
The removal of some cruddy undercuts has just notched this one up a grade. The nature of the moves and the rock make bolt clipping a challenge so preclip what your happy with. Good.
13. Vindicator 7c/+ (NB)
The most popular route so far.
14. SkyFall 7c/+ (NB)
A new route in the proximity of an old project.
So there you have it. A few things to go at from 7a to 8a+. The crag seeps far less than others of its style. The climbing is butch, with hard undercutting and crimpers. The easier routes make for poor warm ups so get some in at Rubicon first.
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Grade changes currently can not be made on the UKC database as it is locked into the RockFax app but a note is made in the additional descriptions for affected routes.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=140
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Edit:
3. One way reflection 7a ish? (NB)
Good fingery climbing to a bolt/thread lower off.
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in reply to Dave Thomas: not been on flaming drambuie yet, although I followed the first pitch of it a few years ago and pulled a massive hold off it. I don't know if it's still climbaable. My mate led the top pitch and seemed to think the pegs were good enough. I didn't follow due to buggered elbows. Will have to go and get on it soon.
On the subject of sanctuary wall, did you do the e6's on the left? Call of the wild etc? I had a look at them and yet need some attention. The pegs are all useless now so the start looms pretty dangerous. Again, will have to go and sort them at some point. They look brilliant!
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Gary Gibson reported on Facebook that he's cleaned and replaced old threads on the Fly, Cleos Mood ,Black Grub, Central Wall, Catharsis and Midnight Mass at Beeston Tor and plans to do more work.
Can be a nice winter venue with some winter sun. Sounds like access might be a little overgrown still so dress for that and maybe take a handsaw
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The prickly rose wood, dead branches, hawthorn and brambles above Circe at Stoney Middleton have been cleared away.
The old belay tree is mostly dead so I have cleared a passage up to the healthy cluster of trees to the left.
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Cleaned Ritual E4 6a at Peel Crag in Northumberland today. Feels a bit eliminate at the start but middle section is great. Removed lichen from the obvious footholds and excavated the larger handholds. Still doesn't look too appealling from below but is now clean enough to be a fun proposition. Peg doesn't look too bad but it is ancient, I backed it up on ab to a cam and wire in the route to the left.
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Very good, will take heed of that.
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I’ve given ‘All systems go’ e6 6c on bubbles wall at Stoney a brush (apart from the top crack of scarab which was just to minging with dirt). I shunted the route which starts up scarab then moves right at the good flat hold at 10ft then straight up the wall to the base of the crack. It’s really quite good technical climbing on edges and pockets. Quite bold to lead with a low-ish thread and then unplaceable poor rp’s above. Potential ground fall going to the break and maybe the move before. It was pretty smeggy conditions and very dirty at first but felt around f7b+/c (I was only shunting tho). I’d be interested to hear if anyone’s done this. It would be an impressive onsight.
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...Quite bold to lead with a low-ish thread and then unplaceable poor rp’s above. Potential ground fall going to the break and maybe the move before. It was pretty smeggy conditions and very dirty at first but felt around f7b+/c
Soft-touch E6 then!
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Definitely not a soft touch, I had a look at the grade conversion charts and e6 goes up to 7c+ which surprised me. It’s got no logs on ukc so I wondered if anyone had done it on here
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Wouldn’t be surprised if it hasn’t been repeated.
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Yeah, it must have been repeated loads of times as it’s pretty polished under the dirt. Just thought I’d post it up as a worthwhile but seemingly neglected route and assumed someone like yourself must have done it. Can imagine the rockstars of the 90’s did laps on it.
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Can imagine the rockstars of the 90’s did laps on it.
Yeah laps on top rope maybe :lol:
That’s how the routes on that wall mainly got climbed and polished as it was used as a top rope / shunting venue.
Far too hard for hard for me as I didn’t embrace headpointing and stuck to to ground upping routes (unless new routing obviously)
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It feels like a bold sport route really, stick a bolt in it and you’d have a quality 7b+. I wonder if a lot of the polish is from caving groups abseiling etc
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There is a bolt in it. An old 8mm cavers spit that was used for re-belay practice.
It protects the hard bit.......may have been filled in.....
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There’s an old hole where that may have been but definitely no bolts now. So maybe bottom end e7?
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I cleaned / brushed snapdragon on Chee Tor yesterday. Great moves and good gear. Unfortunately I misread the crux so fell off getting into the undercuts by the thread. Pulled back on and was fine after that. Nice route!
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Bit of phone in shoe footage of ‘All systems go’ to the right of Scarab. I redpointed it with pre placed (poor) RP’s to protect a ground fall off the crux. Can’t figure whether it’s 7b+ or 7c but it’s definitely quality climbing with great moves all the way. Well worth checking out if it’s your bag. Must have been a pretty solid lead for the time in 1985!
Watch All systems go on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/273604364
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Nice one Dan, looks really good
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Cheers Mark, I’d be interested to hear what you think if you do it.
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Rapture on Waterfall Buttress WCJ has been dusted down. 7bish on almost perfect rock after the start.
Shaded after 1.30 and very cool being so close to the waterfall.
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Not a recent thing and not my work but much of the dark wall at Trow Gill is clean, chalked, and ticked at the moment. I'm looking for a partner for this Saturday if anyone is up for it.
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Hollywood Bowl at Giggleswick North has had some cleaning and traffic on some of the lesser-trodden routes recently:
Divine Brown 7c+, Willywacker 7c, Superbowl 7c, Jorjas Connection 7b+. Accelerator 8b+ is clean and chalked with a new bolt in.
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Cleaned Strawberries man at dyserth waterfall crag of the a55 yesterday. Have to say that it's a brilliant route, 8a to the right looks great too.
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Nice one
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Bit of phone in shoe footage of ‘All systems go’ to the right of Scarab. I redpointed it with pre placed (poor) RP’s to protect a ground fall off the crux. Can’t figure whether it’s 7b+ or 7c but it’s definitely quality climbing with great moves all the way. Well worth checking out if it’s your bag. Must have been a pretty solid lead for the time in 1985!
Watch All systems go on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/273604364
I always envisioned a Fisher-esque slap fest, rainbow Lycra and a bit of Venus in Furs from the ghetto blaster..
.. definitely no heel hooks, or elevator music - not if you ever wanted me to sign on for you.
;D
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Cleaned a ton of loose rock out of the crux pitch of Hamadryad in Twll Mawr while climbing it the other day so it's now only 'loose' instead of 'tottering'. Brambles still in-situ though.
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[/quote]
I always envisioned a Fisher-esque slap fest, rainbow Lycra and a bit of Venus in Furs from the ghetto blaster..
.. definitely no heel hooks, or elevator music - not if you ever wanted me to sign on for you.
;D
[/quote]
Haha, I did wonder if it was done with the heel or something a bit more ‘slappy’
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Cleaned routes at Willersley:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/willersley_-_routes_cleaned_recently-690456?new=8830963#x8830963
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I gave Dharma a clean on Thursday and went back to climb it today. Great route, bold 7c ish. I think the bottom and top pegs are a bit dodgy but the climbing is steady there. 2 of the middle 3 seem reasonable. It should stay clean for a bit, but a good north westerly would be best to reduce humidity. Beta vid below
Watch Dharma on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/284531986
_
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Chuffin eck that's a long runout Dan! Looks like a trouser filler
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You can piss 7c Ted, get on the flash :D
Good cleaning choice, purple patch Dawes tick n all.
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Cheers Ted / Fiend, it’s definitely flashable and while run out you probably wouldn’t hit the floor off the final move to the ledge unless your belayer had a load of slack out. Still probably my top end in terms of risk.
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The old pegs on the The Angler at Rubicon were replaced with bolts earlier this summer, after consultation with the first ascentionist. Hence there is still a bit of a runout after the crux. One very hard move, feels 7c/+ ish ? Also makes The Pinch Test and The Wimp a bit more appealing as there is now a decent belay.
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Great news Mark, I'll have a look at this. Makes sense to have these routes climbed rather than mouldering away....
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I cleaned and climbed ‘Only Human’ on front of rivelin needle today. Amazingly good moves on very scrittly and some friable rock. Really worth checking out if your a Rivelin fan, Grimer must have done it back in the day, I’ve still got his jumpy wooler to complete the ‘collection’
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Quite a bit of tidying up at Malham in the last week, New belay on Free and Even Easier the previous one was seriously fucked, plus re positioning the third bolt, Consenting bolts sorted out so you aren’t going to deck from the crux! Against The Grain and Taking the Space bolts added where you are clipping from wet under cuts and Career by Prospects a direct start added and the situ wire placed with a glued in resin bolt.
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Quite a bit of tidying up at Malham in the last week, New belay on Free and Even Easier the previous one was seriously fucked, plus re positioning the third bolt, Consenting bolts sorted out so you aren’t going to deck from the crux! Against The Grain and Taking the Space bolts added where you are clipping from wet under cuts and Career by Prospects a direct start added and the situ wire placed with a glued in resin bolt.
Good work Ian. That third bolt on Free and Even Easier is a joy to clip now.
One suggestion for any future work. The grey glue smeared around that bolt looks a bit unslightly as it is in white rock so maybe look to wipe it off for future bolts you place in white rock.
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Brief vid of ‘only human’ quick end of day redpoint after cleaning and working. A bit lazy really, must do better :spank:
Watch Only Human on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/300182968
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Popped to Rivelin today and gave ‘Big Al’ a clean. It was very scrittly. Opted to lead it with climbing up to the peg on Plague and clipping it before doing the direct start. This would have been ok-ish with 4 pads and probably highball font 7b. I’d go for e5 6c rather than English 7a easier than Declaration on the needle which is 7a.
https://vimeo.com/308709025
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Brief vid of ‘only human’ quick end of day redpoint after cleaning and working. A bit lazy really, must do better :spank:
Watch Only Human on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/300182968
Only just watched this with sound, I really like Cat Power, have you seen her 'speak for trees' videos on youtube? Such brilliant nothingness
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I didn't like the music! In fact, I nearly switched the video off.
Such brilliant nothingness is what I thought you'd have without the music.
Good to see the more obscure stuff being climbed, and videos are always good "get off the couch" fodder.
Dan, separately, I can't remember if I asked you, do you have any photos or video from Declaration? I seem to remember we may have said something about it previously. Great that it's given 7a, which was always Dave's proud moment and "Declaration".
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Hey up chaps :) yeah I’m up and down with music on climbing vids. As monkey boy? Recently mentioned on here no music takes you into the experience a bit more and is less off putting. That said I like Cat Powers so it is what it is I guess. Had a look at the vids on YouTube Guy, I like the cicadas and lofi vibe, reminds me I don’t make enough time in life for ‘nothingness’, cheers. I’ve posted the declaration vid below Dave, what a great set of moves. Can’t think of anything harder on the edge, quarries excluded of course :ohmy:
Edit: have you looked at the ‘Disintergration loops’ Guy? Worth a ganders
Watch Declaration Rivelin Needle on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/196111784
Re-edit of Big Al
Watch Big Al (Original version with direct start) on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/308773076
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Great stuff Dan.
Plenty of people will prefer the music of course, and I think it's important to keep to your own expressive instincts, rather than just adapting to opinion.
I think we may have passed on the Declaration video. Thanks for re-posting. Should get out there on it myself.
All the best for the New Year! :thumbsup:
Actually, I love that Declaration video. Find it really moving. Thanks.
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I didn't like the music! In fact, I nearly switched the video off.
Such brilliant nothingness is what I thought you'd have without the music.
I tend to agree if the recording doesn't get ruined by the wind. This was more of an aside to kindred listener.
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https://youtu.be/ObdZ8lhC0f0
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More mid range punterizing at Rivelin again. Can’t get enough of the place 😂 this route I thought was a bit weird. Clinker - make a move on a pebble in the scoop then reach the right arête? Anyway gave it a dust / de scrittle on Ab, then did it this way. Has anyone else tried once you start rocking over you can’t move to the e1on the left. Quite a good move but couldn’t see any pebbles further right. Some very thin slopey nothings but I did have 3 split tips so hard to tell. Strangely bad conditions despite the temps
https://youtu.be/FIyncW77U18
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Anglezarke is the bees knees, wot a place. Popped there today for a mooch and found this line on Grey wall -I think it was Age of Reason but can’t be sure as wasn’t in the guide we had. Dare I mention them. Anyway cool moves and prob around e5 6b depending on how much you trust the rock quality and corroded peg.
https://youtu.be/iSyT8bEZrAg
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Ps gotta love the new YouTube vibe. Goodbye 4K anamorphic, hello 320p lofi - ness
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Eavestone stuff at about E3:
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29883.msg579220.html#msg579220
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Nina Caprez has partially rebolted Mingus in Verdon (8a) and replaced all belays on it. She also checked the status of the pitons.
https://fanatic-climbing.com/verdon-nina-caprez-reequipe-mingus-300m-8a-verdon-mingus-300m-8a-rebolted-by-nina-caprez/
So now you can follow in Lynn Hill's footstep and casually onsight this route knowing that you don't have to clip rusty caving bolts from the late 80s, at least not on any of the hard parts ;)
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I cleaned Stogumber Club 7c+ on lower 2 Tier last night. Its the route to the left of Entree. Worth doing but gnarly! Here is a short video of it for beta (the second one after Flow)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB-wh36fqF0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB-wh36fqF0)
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Nice one Ted, how does this rate on the Peak 8a+ scale? (i.e. is it actually 8b?). Been interested in this ever since I belayed Joble on it, though he made it look hard and I put it in the 'till I'm a mutant...' list.
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Cheers Guy I thought it was about the same as the other 8a+s down at 2 Tier like Gonads and Ultralight. This was after my mate discovered a much easier way of doing the crux using your RH in a 2 finger gaston pocket to reach the crux sidepull by the 3rd bolt. I was pinching this hold with my thumb in that pocket before, which was much harder. I understand James was also trying it this way as he couldn't otherwise use the pocket (possibly as your fingers need to be quite thin) which is maybe why he commented that it was about the same grade as Kali Yuga. Its been 10 yrs since I did Kali but am inclined to think it is a tougher proposition than Flow.
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Cheers Guy I thought it was about the same as the other 8a+s down at 2 Tier like Gonads and Ultralight. This was after my mate discovered a much easier way of doing the crux using your RH in a 2 finger gaston pocket to reach the crux sidepull by the 3rd bolt. I was pinching this hold with my thumb in that pocket before, which was much harder. I understand James was also trying it this way as he couldn't otherwise use the pocket (possibly as your fingers need to be quite thin) which is maybe why he commented that it was about the same grade as Kali Yuga. Its been 10 yrs since I did Kali but am inclined to think it is a tougher proposition than Flow.
:thumbsup:
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Gave Disillusioned Screw Machine at WCJ Cornice a good scrub on Thursday. Someone else had been up it but it was still pretty filthy. Now just filthy hard.
Man could this crag could do with being re-equipped. Given Brachiation Dance is a 3 star 7b+ it’s pretty shocking the state of the bolts and the lower off being one bolt and another bolt with no chain or hanger.
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Gave Disillusioned Screw Machine at WCJ Cornice a good scrub on Thursday. Someone else had been up it but it was still pretty filthy. Now just filthy hard.
Thanks for that. I have been on that one a few times over the last few weeks and have been intermittently cleaning it. Was pretty grim a few weeks ago! That top crux is hard!
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Tbh I was shut down on the whole crux section. But then it is about F6b until the 3rd bolt so essentially 8a in 12 feet! From the good hold/edge/undercut at the start of the hard bit are you putting your left heel on the obvious big flatty and reaching up with your left hand to that crimp? I wasn’t using the small pocket/slot out left.
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Tbh I was shut down on the whole crux section. But then it is about F6b until the 3rd bolt so essentially 8a in 12 feet! From the good hold/edge/undercut at the start of the hard bit are you putting your left heel on the obvious big flatty and reaching up with your left hand to that crimp? I wasn’t using the small pocket/slot out left.
Yes. Exactly as you describe, reach up from low feet to mingling crimp with left hand, put left heel up, flag with right foot and then up with right hand to pinch and then snatch again with right hand to good hold. After that reach up with left hand to grim split crimp thing and put left heel up and right foot up and almost drop knee then snatch Gaston. After that I bring left hand up to pocket and bust up to the jug with left hand.
I think I would have been better leaving this one till later in the season when I was re-adjusted to minging Peak crimps.
Like you say 8a in about 12 feet
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That makes sense - really helpful. I actually cleaned a small side pull/undercut at the back of the bulge to the right of the good flat glued edge that you’d clip off. Then was busting off that to the Gaston as you describe it as I couldn’t use that mingin slot/crimp. But then I’m gonna have to reach through to the two finger pocket with my right :-\
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None of my doing but a few things I've noticed being done over the last couple of weeks.
Dragonslayer at Eavestone.
Also a new route to the right of it called Roots Manuva.
Doomed Oasis and Warriors at Guisecliff.
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Cleaned the grass + ants out of Tin Drum at Curbar this evening. It’s the seam left of Be Bop Delux. Brilliant micro route/solo (gear after the hard bit so no point putting a rope on). Anyway, it’s as good as anything of that genre. Spicy with a couple of pads, would be fun ground up with a team.
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Hollywood Bowl, Giggleswick North:
Superbowl has now got a new lower-off, some new bolts and a second perma-draw in the roof (Thank you Eduardo). This means you can easily strip the top half without having to pull back under the lip, and then strip the first section to the cave separately (lower-offs in the cave).
The new lower-off is about 1m higher than the original, meaning there's a beefy slap to do after turning the lip, right at the end. Probably 7c/+ now, and a brilliant, improbable route.
Everything else in the bowl is clean and has seen ascents up to Aladdin 8c, except for Whitelock witchery start - this is now normally started up Jorjas Connection at 7b+, or Illywacker at 7c.
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Not sure when you were in there, John, but the true start of Whitelock is clean and chalked at the moment. Not sure how popular it is though - certainly not the most appealing route in there!
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Not sure when you were in there, John, but the true start of Whitelock is clean and chalked at the moment. Not sure how popular it is though - certainly not the most appealing route in there!
I scrubbed it last week, then realised I could hack the lichen off in solid 2 inch thick chunks, but still not locate much rock underneath, so abandoned the cleaning. Saw some folks chalking and trying it on a TR but they abandoned and did the Jorjas start.
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Hollywood Bowl, Giggleswick North:
Superbowl has now got a new lower-off, some new bolts and a second perma-draw in the roof (Thank you Eduardo). This means you can easily strip the top half without having to pull back under the lip, and then strip the first section to the cave separately (lower-offs in the cave).
The new lower-off is about 1m higher than the original, meaning there's a beefy slap to do after turning the lip, right at the end. Probably 7c/+ now, and a brilliant, improbable route.
Thanks John and everyone else who helped out getting Superbowl cleaned up. I did it on Sunday and it's an incredible route, better than sunset boulevard imo (don't let the slightly dirty start put you off). No idea why it gets 2* in the guide as it's definitive 3* material.
New lower off seems in a sensible spot, the moves to get it clipped are really cool and means you have to have a good sequence sorted through the roof.
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Robbie Phillips posted on Facebook Northumberland page they did some cleaning at Ravensheugh;
“Plumb Line” E5
“Billy Biscuit” E5
“The Reiver” F7B+ (E7)
“Dawes Route” F7A+ish (E5)
“Bonneville” F7A
“Underpowered” F7A
“The Plumber” E5 (F6B+??)
“The Magician” F8A
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Robbie Phillips posted on Facebook Northumberland page they did some cleaning at Ravensheugh;
“Plumb Line” E5
“Billy Biscuit” E5
“The Reiver” F7B+ (E7)
“Dawes Route” F7A+ish (E5)
“Bonneville” F7A
“Underpowered” F7A
“The Plumber” E5 (F6B+??)
“The Magician” F8A
Reiver is absolutely incredible. Anyone operating at that grade should have it at the top of their to do list.
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Still disappointed I didn't get on The Reiver on my one visit to Ravensheugh.
“Dawes Route” F7A+ish (E5)
Is this the arete opposite The Reiver? I thought Johnny called it Reivers' Wives (which is genius).
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I asked Jonny about this a while ago and he told me it should be called reality cult.
It’s a quality piece of climbing that’s a perfect highball with pads. Not quite as good as reiver but not far off, the hard climbing is lower than Reiver as well.
I added a sit start to it a few years back at 7B+ that’s quality but I didn’t top it out as it was filthy. Best get back up there.
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I asked Jonny about this a while ago and he told me it should be called reality cult.
I do remember he got some pushback on how appropriate Reivers' Wifes was as a name. He must have changed his mind.
I was there the day he did it and remember thinking it looked very good. I was so lazy that day and didn't get on either route, despite both of them having teams on them.
Anyway, Reivers' Wives (and Reivers' Digest) are both still available for other new routes.
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Reivers wives is brilliant given its location.
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Added some newer tat (and cut off old) to lower offs on Embankment 2, Time For Tea and the tat in the peg on Coventry Street.
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"An Ivory Smile" 7c, at Devil's Gorge has been re-bolted with stainless glue-ins, cleaned, and re-climbed by me. It's a fun route going the full height of the gorge - bouldery low down, then techy balancy climbing to a stamina sapping finish.
Bolts courtesy of the North Wales Bolt Fund.
Conditions tend to be good at the gorge in September - daytime temps not as warm, so you don't get condensation from cold-air trapped in the cave/mine.
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Three routes at Chee Tor now have new 11mm static replacing dodgy tat on their lower offs:
Absent Friends, Nostradamus/Rave On and Gulle Gulle Groove.
Thread on Absent Friends needs replacing with small diameter cord/tape.
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I have scrubbed up Goldcrest on WCJ Cornice. Now all clean and chalked, more traffic will improve it. V hard moves but quality, cool kneebar in the top roof. I can't believe this was graded 7c!
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Nice one. What grade do you reckon is more accurate (i've never been on the route)?
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I haven't done it yet but found out how to do the hardest bit between the 3rd and 4th bolt after extensive scrubbing of the gunk. This must be about V8 but not sure I'm doing it the right way (high rockover with left toe). Then there is another hard bit to get up to the roof. The start shared with Nasty Man seems like something must have come off. The only way I could find to do it was via a Cypher style kick move after a massive reach off a low undercut in the intial break. Excellent top roof with a kneepad.
Has to be 8a and quality moves. Will report back if I get up it. I remember the pic of Jon on this in an old OTE but haven't managed to track it down for beta.
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Has to be 8a and quality moves. Will report back if I get up it. I remember the pic of Jon on this in an old OTE but haven't managed to track it down for beta.
Coincidentally, I saw this pic a few days ago while looking for an article on South Lakes bouldering. OTE92. Crap at posting this stuff up, so hopefully you've got it and I don't need to work out the technology!
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Ah cheers for the reference, I'll try and track it down. Funny how these pics become lodged in your brain. I guess back then OTE and High was pretty much all there was for climbing media...times change!
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Don't forget Stumbler And Bumbler :)
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Wasn't it Climber and Flower arranger? :-\
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Dragonslayer, Eavestone Crack, Oubliette and The Alamo all clean.
Eavestone Wall is sprouting some shrubs from its ledges but the vertical rock looked pretty clean and it wouldn't take long to sort out.
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Upping The Ante at Robin Hood Quarry is in superb condition. 2 minutes from the car but won't stay in this condition for long...3 stars and would be a trade route elsewhere...
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I cleaned up Untoward at Black Rocks a few weeks back.
Took a couple of sessions as it was so minging. Very good compression style boulder problem above bomber gear.
Go get it.
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Good work. Good route isn't it. I did it in 2011 (also took a bit of cleaning back then). Which side of the arete did you finish up? I ended up on the rhs at the top.
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Great route. I also headed up and right by turning the arete. Seemed the easiest way although dropping it on that last move would be a big grim lob. It looks like another party ticked it on ukc and they may have headed up and left judging by the extra cleaning and chalk.
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Louis Wilder on Upper Wrysagn got a good brush yesterday. Deserves attention, is brilliant with the lower hard bit well protected, the upper bit is a bit more wiggy but not as hard; the perfect balance. Absolutely super classic. Cuchulainn was also brushed but not climbed (needs some 5/6mm cord to replace thread) and Wall of Ghouls was climbed but not brushed. Genuine quality routes up there.
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Nowt to do with me but a load of routes at Tintwhistle have been cleaned up.
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I've heard about that too. Definitely sounds like people should cheque them out.
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Yes, indeed, I mike head out there next week.
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Dharma. Clean and probably as dry as it’s ever gonna get though it could be a bit hot next wk. Getting this route in condition is a bit of a mystery as despite so little rain the crag was quite damp on Tuesday evening (humidity levels for Whatstandwell were in the low 60s and it was overcast). Yesterday they were in the upper 50s and it was much brighter.
Apart from the crux crimp which would be tricky to hold if it was really hot the rest probably goes even on a warm day.
For future reference realistically it needs cleaned and then left to dry out before returning…
Personally I think it’s worth the effort - classic esoterica.
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Apparently Upping The Ante is almost in nick nearby as well. Surely one of the best quarried grit E5's in Derbyshire?
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Getting this route in condition is a bit of a mystery as despite so little rain the crag was quite damp on Tuesday evening (humidity levels for Whatstandwell were in the low 60s and it was overcast). Yesterday they were in the upper 50s and it was much brighter.
It’s like a little rainforest in there with its own microclimate. I doubt the temperature rise is going to help it unfortunately. It’s an awesome place though, looks to have so many routes that would be great if they were in condition.
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Get Rich Quick is fantastic and safe. I expect it'll need a reclean by now though. Everything on that wall is worth cleaning up I reckon.
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I took garden shears to Two Tier main wall on the right side today. Cut back all the nettles from Inbetweeners to the right hand end. Also cleaned up the right most route, Tip Dollar 6a+.
The route needs a belay, which I’d be happy to equip if someone doesn’t mind lending me a drill.
I’d be happy to rebolt the routes to the left as well, Tippers & What a Waste.
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Sure Shark can hook you up with the bolt fund drill if you message him. Nice one!
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I took garden shears to Two Tier main wall on the right side today. Cut back all the nettles….
Nice one Gav, though a bit of ‘nettle beta’ will hopefully be useful:-
Shears probably isn’t the answer, though for a particularly tall crop, shearing them to a foot above the ground might be a useful start point.
Nettles do pull out of the ground fairly readily, if you grasp the stem near its base. They won’t break off like many plants, and a length of root will come out with the stem.
Obviously you do need leather gloves for this - I always have a pair in my sac for belaying - but this approach will last much longer than shearing.
I pulled all the nettles out around the adit entrance at Smalldale last week, and you couldn’t tell there’d been any nettles there when I went back yesterday. I’ll try to do some other sections at the base of that wall in the coming days (if I find myself back there). I wish others would do the same, but the lack of summer veg clearance undertaken by the younger generation seems sadly pitiful to me. I carry a host of cleaning kit in my sac in the summer, including secateurs and a saw. And I use them….
Last one on nettles: sadly, whilst my approach will give you a decent result for a season, it isn’t the final solution. If you’ve ever attempted to dig out a patch of nettles, you’ll know that the root system - which is bright yellow - is really extensive. Round up, anyone… :o
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…the lack of summer veg clearance undertaken by the younger generation seems sadly pitiful to me.
Crag cleaning shots do nothing for the Insta profile. Blame the algorithm ;)
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Cleaned up General Incompetence (known on the other channel as General Dismissal for unknown reasons) at Nettle Buttress, Cheedale last month. Good route.
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Cleaned up General Incompetence (known on the other channel as General Dismissal for unknown reasons) at Nettle Buttress, Cheedale last month. Good route.
I can't remember the source, but General Dismissal is the correct name. Somewhere along the line GI crept in and it's stuck around for a long time.
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Cleaned up General Incompetence (known on the other channel as General Dismissal for unknown reasons) at Nettle Buttress, Cheedale last month. Good route.
General Incompetence was the long term project of Dave Lee, aka Chesters (he came from Chesterfield), aka ‘The General’. Chesters was a brilliant climber and a good mate of mine. I remember watching him trying the line one day - I might even have a photo buried somewhere gathering dust - and it was really impressive seeing Dave pulling some really challenging moves with the gear well below his feet…
After Chesters moved away and Dougie did the FA, Chris Gore suggested General Dismissal as a potential name, and I suggested General Incompetence. I seem to remember some (Gore?) thought my suggestion was a bit disrespectful, but it was actually a gentle micky take of a good friend and much respected climber. Chesters thought it was funny and certainly wasn’t offended by it.
Bit of 80s Cheedale history for you there… :)
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I can't remember the source, but General Dismissal is the correct name. Somewhere along the line GI crept in and it's stuck around for a long time.
Crossed posts there, Remus. I’m afraid you’re wrong…
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I can't remember the source, but General Dismissal is the correct name. Somewhere along the line GI crept in and it's stuck around for a long time.
Crossed posts there, Remus. I’m afraid you’re wrong…
Indeed. We’ve been here before:
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31629.msg649612.html#msg649612
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I can't remember the source, but General Dismissal is the correct name. Somewhere along the line GI crept in and it's stuck around for a long time.
Crossed posts there, Remus. I’m afraid you’re wrong…
Indeed. We’ve been here before:
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31629.msg649612.html#msg649612
Hahaha, I stand corrected! Thanks both.
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Indeed. We’ve been here before:
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31629.msg649612.html#msg649612
Christ, that's so spooky :o I have absolutely no recollection of posting on that thread, and it was less that 2 years ago... :'(
Mind you, I see Remus was contributing 2 years ago too, and he's (considerably) younger than me :lol:
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Dharma. Clean and probably as dry as it’s ever gonna get though it could be a bit hot next wk. Getting this route in condition is a bit of a mystery as despite so little rain the crag was quite damp on Tuesday evening (humidity levels for Whatstandwell were in the low 60s and it was overcast). Yesterday they were in the upper 50s and it was much brighter.
Apart from the crux crimp which would be tricky to hold if it was really hot the rest probably goes even on a warm day.
For future reference realistically it needs cleaned and then left to dry out before returning…
Personally I think it’s worth the effort - classic esoterica.
Thanks for cleaning this up T_B, had a session on it yesterday and it was in good condition despite the rain on Tuesday. Very hot and sweaty though.
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Nice one. My mate’s itching to get back on it so I might well clean up Get Rich Quick based on Jonboy’s comment above.
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Went and did Great Crack and Dharma today. Both dry - a little moisture on the start of the crack and a couple of the edges on the run out on Dharma seemed a big soapy, but this may always be the case. It was humid, but things were obv climbable.
Nice one Tom on the cleaning.
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We gave The Silver Usurper at The Silver Screen buttress, Craig Bodlyn, Rhinogau a good clean the other day. Its on good gritty rock, especially the second half of the pitch but gets dirty pretty quickly due to its aspect etc. The pegs are on their way out (origanally placed in1999/2000), 2 out of 4 are particularly poor/worthless. We rapped it to clean then backed up the pegs with various other bits of kit and led it like that, which is a bit lame but was the best we could do for now. Its a great route and worthy of the 3 stars its given, I'd say would match 3 stars anywhere, so fully recommended. Grade wise it's given E6 6b, and we thought it was at the stout end of that grade for an onsight, be interesting to hear what others think. The buttress has 4 other E6's and a E7 that all look excellent (but need a good scrub), and there's possibly a few more gems found around the rest of the crag. Fingers crossed for more dry weather now.
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Emotional Rescue and Golden Boy, Elec quarry, Stoney.
Gave these a clean the other day and climbed yesterday. They are both pretty good. Emotional rescue has a cool first section up to the break after the crux. Ok rock, little run out but ok gear and the 1 dodgy looking peg can be backed up with small wires above and below. The next section is chossy but ok gear can be found in the back of the crack which seems solid. The final headwall is actually pretty good. The top out was really loose but I removed the worst (a pretty large perched block was gently levered off - was worried it might land in the sub station but felt it was better to remove in a controlled manner as it looked pretty solid from below and def wasn't! It stayed on our side of the fence.) Now a lot more solid (and good gear just below) and it's easy enough to walk round and pre place a rope if you want.
Golden Boy was better, harder and more solid. Shares the same final headwall but much more sustained to get there. Good gear can be found and the 3 pegs look ok at the moment (easy to back up the first, 2nd and 3rd bit trickier but they look the best)
Judging by the amount of fresh blocks and chopped branches on the ground it looks like someone else has been cleaning (and by the looks of it doing a bigger job than me), maybe Damocles or perhaps Brown Corner. Although there was a lot of rubble around on the ground I couldn't really see which route it had come off.
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Nice one Ben. I seconded ER about 20 years ago. Good to have some more steep trad to go at, though I do struggle with the Electric Quarry ‘ambience’.
Lots cleaned up at Rubicon this summer as well…
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I do struggle with the Electric Quarry ‘ambience’.
Lots cleaned up at Rubicon this summer as well…
You just have to embrace it, it's so horrible that I actually like it there. It's hard to imagine any other reason you would have a great couple of hours in such a place otherwise. Good long pitches on this wall and it seems to stay even drier than the left wall, and a bit less seepage too.
I did a bunch of the Rubicon routes a few years ago, great fun, got 1 to go back for.
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It was all chalked up a few weeks ago but I believe an undercut needs re-attached. Might have gone back on by now…?
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Nice one BB.
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Good stuff.
I thought these were very worthwhile, just a shame they're rarely in a ground uppable state. Get to it!
Also reckon one 'ard move is worthwhile also. Maybe slightly more than one move with interesting climbing around the crux. Although it'll need a good scrub and the top out is maybe beyond cleaning. Lots of loose stuff!
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Have you led One ‘Ard Move, Felix?
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No, I've only had a quick play a few years ago. Don't live nearby anymore so has slipped down the list of priorities.
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Okay, thanks Felix.
OAM may be 35 years old (!) but to my knowledge, it hasn’t had a second ascent yet. However, that might be about to change….?
I tried it on sight about 25 years ago, getting as far as…. (the clue’s in the name!).
Interestingly in the FA list in the Limestone South (sic) guidebook, it says Dougie did it on sight.
That’s a bit odd as there are a number of peg runners in the route, but Ian Carr, who climbed it with Doug, was heavily involved in that guidebook, so I assume it is right. Dougie was certainly operating at that level at the time.
So presumably it was an old abandoned project? But if Doug didn’t place those pegs, I wonder who did :-\
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So presumably it was an old abandoned project? But if Doug didn’t place those pegs, I wonder who did :-\
Guilty.
I got shut down on the crux and in frustration made the mistake of saying I don’t care if someone else does it and left. As I understand Dougie turned up later and my comment was relayed to him (by Al Austen IIRC) and Dougie did it. I was told he went up the crack next to it to look across to inspect it but otherwise flashed it.
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Good info thanks both.
What a legend Dougie is, did he just never fall off stuff?
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Guilty.
Wow, brilliant :clap2:
Isn't it amazing when a forum like this turns up the answers to an old conundrum in a completely unexpected way.
And yes, Dougie was a complete legend. I remember him turning up at Kilnsey one afternoon and going on one of the North Buttress routes. Chatting to him, he mentioned they'd been into Gordale in the morning. Oh, what did you do? says I, expecting he might have belayed a mate on a redpoint, with Kilnsey being the main objective of his day. Huecool says Doug. A mere 8b... And this was probably over 30 years ago :o
Anyways, back to OAM. I'm just off to the Electric Quarry now. Let's see if the long awaited second ascent comes today :bounce:
Neil
ps. I'm not planning on leaving the ground :-[
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Great story Neil!!
I am always in awe of Dougie when I hear stories of him and was lucky enough to meet him in Australia - he was saying that he was meant to go just before or just after he got married but something happened- maybe he broke something??
I remember thinking he would have torn Australian climbing apart back then and would have picked many plum first ascents.
Super nice friendly guy, with one of those great Lancashire accents.
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It was all chalked up a few weeks ago but I believe an undercut needs re-attached. Might have gone back on by now…?
Yeah, the rock stabilisation work was completed a few weeks ago. I see El Mocho and team ticked. Possibly the second and third ascents.
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Good work on cleaning up these old Rubicon trad routes.
But what's the deal with all the tat on Jaws? The top two pegs equalised with fat blue tape (as a lower off?!) is a hideous mess
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Good work on cleaning up these old Rubicon trad routes.
But what's the deal with all the tat on Jaws? The top two pegs equalised with fat blue tape (as a lower off?!) is a hideous mess
Yeah I saw that - the 'new' (I've no idea when it went in) bolt belay for Plectrum Maxilla is on the ledge above just slightly to the right so is a much better option. Maybe these were placed (the pegs look new) before this bolt belay existed? Either way I think all the tat could come off.
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I didn’t add the tat but I did “amend” some of it. I’ve not been on Jaws but have looked over at it.
The top tat (and pegs) is unnecessary now there is a bolted lower off (not sure when either the pegs or bolts were added, others of this parish may know the latter at least). That said, I think “hideous mess” is probably overdoing it a little: I suspect climbers are more sensitive about bits of cliff than most WCJ visitors. (Personally, I’m more offended by the fingertape scraps - which is just plain littering.)
The lower tat was added - I suspect - because the way the pegs are placed means a karabiner would put a fair bit of torque on the eyes of the pegs (due to protruding rock below). It’s probably not entirely necessary but I can’t get too excited.
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The lower tat was added to equalise the pegs presumably? Makes sense. The pegs at the top aren’t really necessary (it’s all over by that point). I wouldn’t lower off them.
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The lower tat was added to equalise the pegs presumably? Makes sense.
The two (lower) pegs which are equalised seem pretty bomber (not really very necessary to equalise). I changed the tat around so it also had the effect of equalising them.
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The discreetly hidden lower off and the replacement peg/bolt are roughly 5 years old. The fugly blue tat really needs to come off.
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Emotional Rescue and Golden Boy, Elec quarry, Stoney.
Judging by the amount of fresh blocks and chopped branches on the ground it looks like someone else has been cleaning (and by the looks of it doing a bigger job than me), maybe Damocles or perhaps Brown Corner. Although there was a lot of rubble around on the ground I couldn't really see which route it had come off.
That was me. I cleaned Brown Corner of Rose thorn from the top and around a 1/4 of a ton of very dangerous blocks out the bottom. The route was an accident waiting to happen.
Also cleaned Damocles of loose stuff from the top and veg out of the overhang. Not sure why this is not done more often. I spent a long time cleaning the bottom crack....Which brings me onto One Ard Move.
Started cleaning this last year, big job as the top is really loose. Got that stabilised and then started getting mud off the route and dusting down...Went back to it recently and started working the move which was 6c..
Tried it Saturday and again today, sadly one of the crimps blew and left a bigger hold which then blew again leaving nothing. So it can now be renamed One Extremely Hard Move. Would be better to move left into BC and make a move up the crack to give a balanced E3/4. Word of warning for everyone rushing to do it....The traverse left out of Damocles requires a bit of care......Pretty disappointing as there is no way I can do that move and I've spent a fair bit of time cleaning.
As for the 2nd ascent I'm pretty sure the BIG man has done it.
Cleaned a few other things recently but routes like Morgue and Speed Kills have really loose top outs nowadays and id be careful heading up that stuff on-sight. The Peg on Speed Kills looks done but the route Gary did to the right may protect it.
As for 2nd ascents Easy Skanking to my knowledge never had one (Unless Dougie did it) You can get a rope down it from top of LP 1st pitch.
Swine Vesicular also not repeated and looks total nails....
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Which brings me onto One Ard Move...
Tried it Saturday and again today, sadly one of the crimps blew and left a bigger hold which then blew again leaving nothing.
Unlucky with that crimp, esp after all the work cleaning that section of wall. I went back today with my mum. Flash go was not so impressive - got on the crimps above break (left hand on crumbly remains of the hold) and gave up. Climbed up the corner a bit to get a rope just above and worked the move. First try left hold broke again leaving an even smaller crimp side pull but this did stay on - managed move ok so lowered down and managed a clean lead.
What's left of the crimp feels pretty fragile but I don't think there is much which can be done about it + you have to pull on it quite hard.
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Bon effort Ben.
What 'realistic' :lol: grade for a lead in its current state?
Neil
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I think the current grade is realistic.
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I didn't try before the hold broke, I imagine it's a slightly harder move now, judging by the state of the holds left and from what Hydraulic said. But it's not hard enough, bold enough or sustained enough to bump it up an E grade (again like Hydraulic says it's no more than E4 without this section, assuming nothing falls off the trav left with you attached), and as someone brought up at Almscliff I believe there is nothing above 6c anyway, just dif levels of 6c.
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Sounds like your mum needs to work a bit on her crimping strength and determination if she blew the flash go tho....
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I think the current grade is realistic.
Just wondering how typical it is for you to get on the crimps on a 6b move and simply give up, Ben :-\
I agree that the E grade is a given, but from what I saw the other day, the crux looked every bit a 6c sequence to me - even if at the lower end of the Almscliff scale ;D
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Regarding the Rubicon route. "Harder than Caviar" was the original quote. ???
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I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didn’t quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light. The first 3 moves are harder than the first 3 moves of Caviar and it didn’t look like I was at the hard bit yet!
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I thought the moves were really good from the undercut but I lost interest very quickly with the sharp crimpy start and other distractions. I'm sure Caviar felt easier but that was 20 years earlier with enthusiasm.
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I think the current grade is realistic.
Just wondering how typical it is for you to get on the crimps on a 6b move and simply give up, Ben :-\
I agree that the E grade is a given, but from what I saw the other day, the crux looked every bit a 6c sequence to me - even if at the lower end of the Almscliff scale ;D
I'd forgotten it was 6b, even though you told me that at the crag the other day, was thinking it had been given 6c - as per the name one ard move on an E6 on Peak lime would be 6c anyway. So 6c.
I found a rock 5 at the top, assume it was 1 of you guys. I've left it on the start hold of OAM.
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I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didn’t quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light. The first 3 moves are harder than the first 3 moves of Caviar and it didn’t look like I was at the hard bit yet!
I thought the first move was the hardest so stick with it. I'm not sure if you've been on a rope on it but it's very ground up able with a few pads. I can message you some gear beta if you want, it's prob around 7a from the bolt onwards.
Bosi flashed this but fell off Caviar and I think he had dogged up Caviar already (I didn't pay enough attention to be sure) so that was a fall on first RP on Caviar vs flash on PMD.
It's not easy though, around 7B/+ and without pads would be quite high getting the flake. I had 3 pads which changed the nature of it completely.
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Just a suggestion but would be really interesting if someone could do a Lime List for the Peak with routes above E5 and the current state of rhe gear etc..The current guides are hopelessly out of date...
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Just start a thread…
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On the off chance anyone has come across a BD green Z4 whilst doing all the cleaning in electric quarry mine dissapeared in there one evening in the summer.
Spent about an hour looking for it but never found it :wavecry:
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I think the current grade is realistic.
Just wondering how typical it is for you to get on the crimps on a 6b move and simply give up, Ben :-\
I agree that the E grade is a given, but from what I saw the other day, the crux looked every bit a 6c sequence to me - even if at the lower end of the Almscliff scale ;D
I'd forgotten it was 6b, even though you told me that at the crag the other day, was thinking it had been given 6c - as per the name one ard move on an E6 on Peak lime would be 6c anyway. So 6c.
I found a rock 5 at the top, assume it was 1 of you guys. I've left it on the start hold of OAM.
I got my wire back, thanks Ben.
The left hand crimp went yesterday completely...Nick Conway sorted another sequence out and repeated along with Dom... still possible (and just as hard)