UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Littlejon86 on May 14, 2017, 07:38:16 pm
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Heard about a pretty good spot near stoney west sport climbs,any help on how to find it/climbs?
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Do you mean Cucklett Delph?
www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=16390#overview
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/147-cucklett-delf#.WRisCWjyvIU
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=24118.0
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Thats the one, cheers bud...going to have a look next week and see if i can work out the climbs, assuming theres no guides looking at the links you gave
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It's in the BMC definitive and in VGs peak bouldering.
Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
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Two points of order here:
A. It's not in the current Vertebrate guide.
B. It's shite.
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Two points of order here:
A. It's not in the current Vertebrate guide.
B. It's shite.
A. Really, sorry my bad
B. Totes
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Totes???
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Funny, everyone I have talked to who has done Alacrity thinks it's pretty good. They must be daft because now I find out that everyone who hasn't even tried the climbing can tell instantly the climbing is rubbish. ::)
It's shite.
:-\ Let us know what you think Littlejon
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One decent move on one problem does not a good venue make.
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Lots of decent moves on the linkup.
http://vimeo.com/93090174
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Alacrity is good, and its sit/ trav off the back of that, nothing else there looked worthwhile IMO
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Bottom 1/3rd of crag is shit rock, as is the top 2/3rds of the crag which looks like a tidal wave of loose spikes about to fall off on you at any point. The middle solid band has mainly unpleasant holds and no distinct lines, and the one good move on Alacrity itself is an eliminate due to the big hold in the groove just to the left (which I believe can been heelhooked). Having done the aforementioned half decent problem I don't intend to go back. Obviously if folk like it here unexpectedly after reading me slating it then I'm all for it since it keeps the good crags marginally quieter. For me there's plenty of reasons to visit this little valley, and the bouldering is bottom of the list.
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I visited the crag for the first time yesterday. I did Alacrity then the sit (both good problems) and used the good flattie on Fingermuse out left for the LH as it was within reach. I wondered why it didn't feel like a Font 7C then watched a few videos and saw that people are going direct for the RH crux undercut using the lower undercut for the LH. Unfortunately, in reference to previous comments on this thread, the sit at Font 7C via this direct method is an eliminate. The stand is also soft at 7B using the Fingermuse flattie for the LH (7A+ this way I thought). I did it again without this hold with my LH in the lower undercut instead to pull on and this was much harder, proper peak 7B this way I reckon. Ran out of power before doing the proper sit method but seemed like 7C this way.
Nothing wrong with eliminates (look at Minus 10 and Rubicon etc), this should perhaps be mentioned in the next guide just so its clear.
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There seemed to be a fresh brown scar under the lower LH undercut on the sit and it seemed quite poor, anybody know if this hold has broken recently? :-\ Its still doable this way
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I visited the crag for the first time yesterday. I did Alacrity then the sit (both good problems) and used the good flattie on Fingermuse out left for the LH as it was within reach. I wondered why it didn't feel like a Font 7C then watched a few videos and saw that people are going direct for the RH crux undercut using the lower undercut for the LH. Unfortunately, in reference to previous comments on this thread, the sit at Font 7C via this direct method is an eliminate. The stand is also soft at 7B using the Fingermuse flattie for the LH (7A+ this way I thought). I did it again without this hold with my LH in the lower undercut instead to pull on and this was much harder, proper peak 7B this way I reckon. Ran out of power before doing the proper sit method but seemed like 7C this way.
Nothing wrong with eliminates (look at Minus 10 and Rubicon etc), this should perhaps be mentioned in the next guide just so its clear.
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You mean the flatty on Eye of Nowt, to the left. Fingermuse is the 7B+ to the right.
Yeah, Alacrity is a strict line. Stay off the problem to the left.
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Sorry yes that's right, my bad :slap:
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There seemed to be a fresh brown scar
It's not Dave's shite is it? #dirtyprotest
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There seemed to be a fresh brown scar under the lower LH undercut on the sit and it seemed quite poor, anybody know if this hold has broken recently? :-\ Its still doable this way
Did Alacrity sit the proper, strict way last night and if the undercut has broken slightly, which Im not sure is the case, the problem still goes at 7C