UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => topos - bouldering => Topic started by: moose on April 09, 2016, 11:50:58 pm
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Is there a topo for this place? I visited years ago - managed to locate Crystal and Borg but nothing else. Fancy having a go at the stuff on the Beef buttress - the likes of Faith / the Jazzy / Habits problems. Very keen for some near-local limestone bouldering (and re "sensitive access".... rest assured, I am a pretty quiet chap!).
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There isn't a topo, think it was in the guide that anstons in as well, that sold out years ago.
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It wasn't in the Betaguides Anston guide but I think he is currently working on an in depth agnesian limestone guide so it should be covered in that.
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http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11364.0/wap2.html
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Agnesian? Someone who doesn't believe in proper limestone?
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Agnesian would be someone who isn't sure if proper limestone exists or not Lee, you're thinking of Athiesian.
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Beef Buttress is above the car park. Easy to find.
All the problems are described in detail here.
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/7-far-eastern-limestone/crags/123-roche-abbey/boulders/538-beef-buttress#.VwoqjNR4WrV
Check out the videos as well and you'll soon get your bearings.
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Quite right dave, damn non believers
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Cheers everyone for your help on this.... I'll hopefully revisit the place this midweek - I have an appointment in Sheffield that should finish early enough for a bouldering hit on the way home (pervert that I am, I would prefer some dubious limestone than the glories of peak grit!).
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Does anyone have a topo for impossible roof they can share we me?
Regards Jordan ☺️
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I've pmed you a link.
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:clap2: thank you.
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Anyone know how Beef Buttress fares in the rain? Does it stay dry in wintery showers like those forecast tomorrow?
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Should be good tomorrow I reckon. Beef buttress is pretty weatherproof, it can suffer with condensation but no risk of that tomorrow.
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Appreciate it, thanks Remus.
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Can confirm you should be pretty safe at Beef. Was there last Friday, when I believe a lot of the Peak was rained off and the majority of the crag was dry.
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Thanks.
What's the parking like these days? I used to park on the road close to Impossible Roof, but can you actually just park under Beef?
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I've always done that. Never had an issue (have heard of people being asked to leave but not in winter when it's likely to be quiet)
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Is lamping allowed at roche? I've never been so no idea if there are buildings in view
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There’s no buildings in sight of the crags afaik. It’s a bit weird when you leave after 6pm and the barrier is across but if you drive up to it then it opens.
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Is lamping allowed at roche? I've never been so no idea if there are buildings in view
Access has always been a bit on the dodgy side so I'd shy away from lamping myself. Not to say you couldn't get away with it though.
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Thanks for the knowledge folks, had a good session on lovely dry rock in crisp connies.
There’s no buildings in sight of the crags afaik. It’s a bit weird when you leave after 6pm and the barrier is across but if you drive up to it then it opens.
I left at 16.40 on Friday and the barrier was already across. Definitely a bit freaky but it did open. Assume that means you can't get in after a certain time though, maybe 16.00 or so.
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Is lamping allowed at roche? I've never been so no idea if there are buildings in view
.. I'd shy away from lamping myself.
No, never a good idea that, Remus ;) I'd always assumed "lamping" was a slang reference to hitting. Just googled "lamping" and now know it's a reference to hunting with lights - to dazzle prey, to either shoot, or release dogs. I'm wondering if that could be why using lights in the Peak is often a sensitive issue?
Re Roche Abbey. I often used to get ridiculed for suggesting the place on a wet winter afternoon, so good to see it's more in vogue these days.
Thanks for the knowledge folks, had a good session on lovely dry rock in crisp connies.
There’s no buildings in sight of the crags afaik. It’s a bit weird when you leave after 6pm and the barrier is across but if you drive up to it then it opens.
I left at 16.40 on Friday and the barrier was already across. Definitely a bit freaky but it did open. Assume that means you can't get in after a certain time though, maybe 16.00 or so.
Sorry, this reminds me of a little adventure that Steve "The Pro" Lewis and I had at Lorry Park in Matlock about three years ago. We were parked in the council building car park below the crag, and set off in a bit of a rush, so that Steve could pick up his son back in Sheff. We got to the barrier, and it was locked shut. Shit :slap:
I had a good look at the locks, and realised the plate was only bolted onto the rest of the structure, so ran off, telling Steve to wait there, returning with a set of tools after knocking on a couple of doors.
Unbolted the plate, released the barrier, before reassembling after we'd "escaped". Returned the tools, and sped off back to Sheffield. We'd had a good afternoon, redpointing a couple of good routes, but that was definitely the highlight :lol: :2thumbsup: