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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Pantontino on June 29, 2009, 05:59:46 pm

Title: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: Pantontino on June 29, 2009, 05:59:46 pm: Just a taster of ace new dolerite venue near Tremadog:

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/tips/Chummers%20Wall%201%20280%203553.jpg)

Dave Noden on the superb Chummer’s Wall V6/7/7A/+, Moel y Gest

Loads of new problems up to V11/8A, mostly by Nodder, with help from CJD and Chummer. Full story and topos tomorrow.
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: superfurrymonkey on June 29, 2009, 06:01:39 pm: About time too :)
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: Pantontino on June 30, 2009, 06:20:26 pm: Just finished the interim topo - it's a bit rough and ready, but I didn't think it worth doing a proper polished job yet as I'm pretty sure it'll need a complete re-write within the next month or so (I kid you not, some of the unclimbed lines are gob smacking!).

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=411 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=411)

Check Ray Wood's pics here too:

http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=213&ngroup=2 (http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=213&ngroup=2)
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: superfurrymonkey on June 30, 2009, 06:38:18 pm: Think I know where I'll be this weekend, looks great! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: Richie Crouch on June 30, 2009, 11:41:35 pm: Hmm I need to change Owen's plans for Saturday pronto! Beatitudes Kiss and Deadman's arete look amazing :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: nodder on July 01, 2009, 09:31:45 am: If anyone is going up they will find a couple of mats under the left hand boulder, feel free to use. I think the venue could do with lots of traffic to clean it up while the weather is dry. Plus my grading almost certainly needs a bit of traffic to tidy up, but the problems are mostly very good.
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: TomP on July 01, 2009, 09:45:01 am: I'm keen. Is it easy to find? I had a look at the topo and there looks like a few unclimbed lines, although the best look to have been done. There looks to be a good possible rising trav between Deadman's Curve and Un-named V3. That cruiser weight and Beatitude Kiss look fucking ace too. I'm not around for a few weeks but would like to get a trip there at the end of July.

Great effort btw. It's exciting to see such development, you must be made up.....sort of reminds me of a discovery in Yorks not so long ago.
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: superfurrymonkey on July 01, 2009, 12:53:37 pm: Hey Rich give us a shout if change Owens mind and I'll meet you guys there!
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: c.j.d. on July 02, 2009, 08:25:29 am: Cool stuff. I'm going up on Sunday - take midge repelant, its quite muggy there when hot. Lets hope for a breeze!
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: fatneck on July 02, 2009, 03:19:29 pm: Si/anyone who's interested,

Just noticed the DMM website states that the venue is near Tremadog?
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: clm on July 02, 2009, 03:32:18 pm: Quote from: fatneck on July 02, 2009, 03:19:29 pm
Si/anyone who's interested,

Just noticed the DMM website states that the venue is near Tremadog?

...as does the title post :rtfm:
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: nodder on July 02, 2009, 04:53:26 pm: Indeed, its the big quarry opposite craig y castell (more or less) page 144 of the current tremadog book. Approx map ref of 557 386.
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: Monolith on July 02, 2009, 06:16:20 pm: Keen to look at it sunday maybe if any mersey faces are going.
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: fatneck on July 02, 2009, 09:47:52 pm: Right, well the topo (http://"http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Moel%20y%20Gest%20topoV4.pdf") and the website (http://"http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=411") are wrong then! :-\
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: slackline on July 03, 2009, 08:54:51 am: Quote from: fatneck on July 02, 2009, 09:47:52 pm
Right, well the topo (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Moel%20y%20Gest%20topoV4.pdf) and the website (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=411) are wrong then! :-\

So are you're links! (I've corrected them for you).

But both say its near Porthmadog, and that ain't a million miles from Tremadog either. ::)
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: fatneck on July 03, 2009, 08:57:39 am: Quote from: Slackers
So are you're links! (I've corrected them for you).

Cheers, just had a look at a map.... :-[
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: superfurrymonkey on July 03, 2009, 06:28:31 pm: Forecast not looking too clever this weekend http://www.para-excellence.co.uk/weather.html (http://www.para-excellence.co.uk/weather.html) :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: superfurrymonkey on August 09, 2009, 07:04:27 pm: Finally made it this weekend and I can honestly say it's worth a visit even if you are coming from afar, class problems on perfect rock! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: tomtom on August 09, 2009, 09:26:56 pm: Over in Ffestiniog for the next few days, so might have a look...
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: SamD on August 09, 2009, 10:58:01 pm: Went up there last week. Great venue apart from the wading through bracken on the walk in :(. Cruiser Weight is an awesome problem, as is alot of the rest of the stuff. Disappointingly missed out on chummers wall though due to seepage. Good effort Nodder for putting the time in to develop this place ;D
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: superfurrymonkey on August 10, 2009, 10:38:33 pm: Cruiser weight is brilliant as is beatitude kiss! ;D
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: nodder on August 11, 2009, 10:06:39 am: Of course they are all brilliant, when has my quality control ever been wrong? Any feedback on the grades? The howler so far appers to be Drag Racer, 7b/+ish according to Dyer. Anybody else?
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: Doylo on August 11, 2009, 01:35:43 pm: Quote from: nodder on August 11, 2009, 10:06:39 am
The howler so far appers to be Drag Racer, 7b/+ish according to Dyer. Anybody else?

Probably worth taking that with a pinch of salt
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: ding dong on August 11, 2009, 01:56:37 pm: ye, not sure whats going on there, shed load easier than cjd's other problems of a similar ilk and grade.
need to get back up for cruiser weight, looks great. might wait for the braken to die back a bit though.
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: chris on August 11, 2009, 03:23:55 pm: went there and met neil and helen, it pissed down and neil still did it whilst it was raining. obviously not 8a, still looked tricky though.
long walk in too!
Title: Re: Moel y Gest - cat out of bag
Post by: Nike Air on September 16, 2009, 07:59:05 am: :jaw:what a cool new venue!! Well done Nodder for all that cleaning and patio building. The probs are great and the only hardship there is moving between them. But half the fun is arranging the mats and anticipating the moves. I marked where to come off the main path with a finger tape arrow but that wont last long, maybe someone can build a small something to mark the way instead?? It was dark by the time we left and could not find and stones.