UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: andy popp on August 13, 2015, 04:42:25 pm
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The obvious cleaned, brown stained wall in the bay directly opposite Harmers Arete. A little dusty still but better than it looks in this unappealing picture with pretty good rock and some interesting climbing. I've no idea of the grade, it felt nails on Monday but went fine today.
(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11899833_10153477979584590_1717277696249354891_n.jpg?oh=f1c0eb2f018cfa8f385ad736acaaff3d&oe=5643EBB1)
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Hooray! Thought this might be the wall left of Dark Ark for a minute. How goes that one?
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Good work. I beat the truly forgettable 'Bank Robber' into submission recently in the main quarry. Let's just say there was more gardening than climbing.
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Tried this yesterday evening; felt every bit 7A+, i.e. a good deal harder than babyblock in the other quarry.
Unfortunately i snapped a foothold off - a little protrusion just below the lefthand mono and continued trying the move using a tiny v-shaped edge a little lower and to the right. Solid at 7A+ for sure...
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Crag wrecker... ;)
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Thanks Ally, good to have the grade confirmed. Were you turning the righthand pocket into an undercut to go up for the high LH crimp?
The foothold probably isn't critical, there are quite a few possibilities and it doesn't sound like anything I used. I might go back and brush some glue into a few of them though.
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I was turning the RH pocket into a sidepull/finger jam, and tickling the edge out left - i felt too out of balance to flip it to an undercut. I'll have to go back and try the alternate method if the summer rain-ocalypse ends
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Sounds good, hopefully I'll get a chance to get on this at some point. Have you looked at The Dark Ark, Ally? An essential problem if this sort of thing is up your street.
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I was turning the RH pocket into a sidepull/finger jam, and tickling the edge out left - i felt too out of balance to flip it to an undercut. I'll have to go back and try the alternate method if the summer rain-ocalypse ends
It did feel off at first but I found a nice position for turning it round, which I do after having also turned the mono into an undercut. It isn't over when you've got the high edge either.
I might be there early tomorrow afternoon if it stays dry.
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I was turning the RH pocket into a sidepull/finger jam, and tickling the edge out left - i felt too out of balance to flip it to an undercut. I'll have to go back and try the alternate method if the summer rain-ocalypse ends
It did feel off at first but I found a nice position for turning it round, which I do after having also turned the mono into an undercut. It isn't over when you've got the high edge either.
I might be there early tomorrow afternoon if it stays dry.
Text me if you're heading over Andy - not sure what my movements will be tomorrow but might be keen for a afternoon hour..
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Will do Tom.
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If it helps, I was running on the hill last night and popped by. Main quarry a bit damp, new problem dry apart from big obvious footholds next to the ground.
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Cheers Steve. In fact Tom and I popped in for a brief play this afternoon and it was all dry (the big low footholds aren't used anyway). Or it was until it started raining ...
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Nige Hunt repeated this this evening and confirmed the grade at 7A+. He seemed to enjoy it.