UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Alex Smurthwaite on May 28, 2017, 07:22:10 pm
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How long roughly does it take to build fingerstrenght back up to what it was before injury?
Or does it stay pretty much the same?
Cheers
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It's probably somewhere between a week and six months, but there is likely to be some variability around that.
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I've always found the 1:4 ratio to work pretty well as a guideline. This is basically that it takes a quarter of the time it took to gain the strength the first time round.
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I think this depends a lot on the type and severity of the injury you sustain. I tweaked my ring finger pretty mildly about two weeks ago and it feels 100% fine now. In comparison I have blown tendons almost entirely and not been able to open hand holds for months.
What's the injury and how bad?
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Think it's a pully. But the pain is minimal now
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It's probably somewhere between a week and six months, but there is likely to be some variability around that.
So, a time-span from immediately to infinity?
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So, a time-span from immediately to infinity?
Yeah, something a bit like that.
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One thing that proved extremely helpful to me while having a hand / finger injury that sidelined me for 8 weeks (broken metacarpal) is to consistently load the UNIJURED hand, e.g. with assisted 1-arme FB-hangs.
This prevents strength loss also in the injured (unloaded) hand due to some neurological effects that others may be able to better explain. But most important, it worked for me by doing near max hangs and my pure strength loss after the break was quite (and very surprisingly!) minimal in the injured hand.
What I did loose quite a lot though is stamina (energy reserve) and endurance, but as I think is widely accepted, this can be built up at a quicker rate than strength.
Good luck!
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One thing that proved extremely helpful to me while having a hand / finger injury that sidelined me for 8 weeks (broken metacarpal) is to consistently load the UNIJURED hand, e.g. with assisted 1-arme FB-hangs.
This prevents strength loss also in the injured (unloaded) hand due to some neurological effects that others may be able to better explain. But most important, it worked for me by doing near max hangs and my pure strength loss after the break was quite (and very surprisingly!) minimal in the injured hand.
What I did loose quite a lot though is stamina (energy reserve) and endurance, but as I think is widely accepted, this can be built up at a quicker rate than strength.
Good luck!
Cheers. I've been doing hangs on my bm with 3 finger drag. Which doesn't hurt at all. And have noticed a huge increase in drag strength. I never payed much attention to just using 3 fingers. So something good has come out of being injured!