UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: alpinebisou on August 29, 2018, 07:25:23 pm
-
Possibly a stupid and heretical question, but I didn't really find an answer when I searched...
Looking for a sport climbing destination for second half of September. Seems like a good time of year for the Frankenjura. Looks like a really nice place to visit and obviously loads to do.
What I am trying to decide is if I will actually like the rock / climbing. I suppose I can be a bit snobby. I'm sure it is awesome, but want to be sure before committing to a trip there. Seen some people comparing it to Peak lime. I live in France and climb at Buoux quite a bit and love that, Ceuse ditto. But, I do find some of the more 'standard' limestone crags a bit uninspiring. Sure, they are fine, but not really a holiday destination for me. Probably looking for climbing in the 6a-7b range. Don't mind pockets or 'old school' climbing.
Just wondering what others have made of it? May be I'm being paranoid. You don't really see it discussed (may be just taken for granted that it's amazing) and I don't know anyone who's been.
Or any other suggestions of places for that time of year? Would be driving from Annecy area.
:icon_beerchug: Andy
-
Yeah, it's good. The climbing got lot's of character.
-
I really like it. It can be pretty old school (especially in that sort of grade range) but the routes tend have a lot of character and the area in general is really nice. Lots of cool little cafes and cute towns.
-
Thanks both. I do like the look of the area. Seems like a fun place to visit. What you say about the climbing is reassuring.
-
It's really, really good. Much more varied than you'd think if you've just seen pics of action direct etc. I've even done a couple of trad routes there....
-
I think the comparison to the peak isn't a terrible one, there are lots of small crags in a picturesque environment but the climbing is of significantly higher quality. There are some slightly rubbish crags (roter fels), but also loads of great stuff.
-
Generally agree with the Peak comparison. Scenery wise there's nowhere (that I'm aware of) quite as idyllic as Cheedale / WCJ, but the rock's a lot nicer.
-
Ok. Awesome. This is what I was hoping to hear. Thanks!
-
we've just come back, after a trip pretty much mirroring your brief. The climbs in the french 6's can be very run out, but counter to logic, I'd leave the clip stick at home and embrace the ballsy ethic. Adds to the character.
I wouldnt stay anywhere but here now.....
https://marketplace.climbbnb.com/en/listings/493527-bed-and-boulder-frankenjura (https://marketplace.climbbnb.com/en/listings/493527-bed-and-boulder-frankenjura)
-
I think if you like climbing at Buoux you'll love it.
I can't personally think of many areas where the local breweries (numerous) are included on the crag map. I know a few Brits went to the 'jura after climbing on Czech sandstone and found it all a bit tame / short. I left the 'jura to go and climb on Czech sandstone and came running back with my tail between my legs. Perhaps that says more about the people involved than the climbing?
Final question, do you like cake (https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/M%C3%BCller+Alfred+Bakery/@49.6951612,11.3502854,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x66af7f47121d28ae!8m2!3d49.6951612!4d11.3502854)?
-
Was already sold on the beer and cake. Sold on the climbing now as well thanks to your responses!