UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: r-man on January 08, 2012, 04:59:06 pm
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Seemed a good topic to boost rainy season psyche. Routes you would love to see done...
http://gritlist.wetpaint.com/page/LGPs (http://gritlist.wetpaint.com/page/LGPs)
Reading that list you'd assume there's nothing left to do on the eastern edges, or indeed Yorkshire/Lancashire. Has anyone seriously tried Wizard Ridge since Dawes? Has anyone made any progress on the impossible groove at B.South? There must be others.
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There is a slighty overhanging tall blank wall at tegness quarry that needs attention, maybe not great but looks bloody hard, tiny crimps no gear, flattish landing
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There is a slighty overhanging tall blank wall at tegness quarry that needs attention, maybe not great but looks bloody hard, tiny crimps no gear, flattish landing
sssshhhhhhh
the arete to the right of smiling wall often (by lgp standards) sees attention, but it remains unclimbed.
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Direct start to Wuthering- almost top-roped by Johnny Dawes apparently.
Big blank slab at the very far left of Millstone.
Wall right of Ulysses?
Direct start to Fairy Steps?!
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Direct start to Wuthering- almost top-roped by Johnny Dawes apparently. Bollocks
Big blank slab at the very far left of Millstone. Its an arete, but by all accounts doable
Wall right of Ulysses? Again, bollocks
Direct start to Fairy Steps?! You mean the 6c? I appreciate this isn't serious!
Just want to add a bit of realism to the proceedings. The Dawes things above are not projects, they are concepts. Lawrencefield project is the obvious one.
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'Big blank slab at the very far left of Millstone. "Its an arete, but by all accounts doable" '
Surely not talking about the same thing? He is, as far as i can tell, referring to the big, blank slab in the roadside bay - which is definitely not an arete.
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He is, as far as i can tell, referring to the big, blank slab in the roadside bay - which is definitely not an arete.
There was a bit of chalk on this last winter.
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Wall left of Cave Wall.......
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I appreciate this isn't serious!
Yep, should have used at least one winking smiley for those! Mainly things I've seen mentioned as LGPs before- interested in what someone qualified more to judge the feasibility of these things would have to say. Cheers!
'Big blank slab at the very far left of Millstone. "Its an arete, but by all accounts doable" '
Surely not talking about the same thing? He is, as far as i can tell, referring to the big, blank slab in the roadside bay - which is definitely not an arete.
Not the Lawrencefield wall. At the very far left of Millstone (literally the last rock of any size, before anything mentioned in guidebooks) is a very steep, very blank slab with a sharp arete on its left. Never heard anyone else's opinion of it 'til this thread. It would be awesome to see someone climb it!
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Reading that list you'd assume there's nothing left to do [in]Lancashire.
Montcliffe Arete?
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LGP usually refers to obvious challenges which are well known. These don't always turn out to be the actual best routes and some may well be impossible. There are loads of good unclimbed hard lines on grit, loads, but not loads that fit the narrow confines of the LGP title.
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Johnny used to have a framed photo of that Millstone arete in his kitchen. I think Tom DeGay got pretty close ten years back, I'm pretty confident it would succumb to the modern highball team approach.
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The [Millstone] arete is about E5 6a until the holds run out. Last move crux dyno. Probably E8/9 7a? Nasty landing and feels higher than you might think. There is the possibility of placing a very poor rurp about halfway up. Comes up quite regularly as a "Has anyone ever tried the..." type thread. Surprised it hasn't been done TBH.
The face has some holds on it, but not very many...
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[smiling arete has a] supposedly 8b move
and smiling arete i think ben never actually cleanly top roped it either
wizard ridge has never been cleanly top roped, dawes only linked "most" of the moves and has since stated that he thinks it will never go, but lots of climbs have had that said about them.also loads of gear in the crack so prob only E7 if it goes
http://indoorsout.co.uk/phorum-5.2.10/read.php?1,9971,10005 (http://indoorsout.co.uk/phorum-5.2.10/read.php?1,9971,10005)
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Sorry just me being an idiot then! Somehow read Millstone as Lawrencefield!
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...also loads of gear in the crack so prob only E7 if it goes
That's not how E grades work. Even with perfect gear the E grade can in theory go to whatever number, so long as the climbing is sufficiently difficult.
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What he said. I think the sustained 7a climbing Wizard Ridge appears to comprise would warrant move than E7 even with a high side runner.
The [Millstone] arete is about E5 6a until the holds run out. Last move crux dyno. Probably E8/9 7a? Nasty landing and feels higher than you might think.
By 2005 standards. It doesn't look so big compared to Superstition for example.
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:off: I know it is not a route, but has anyone done the dyno on the tank boulder at wimberry?
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No. Although Skyler Weeks made a special trip to try it.
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:off: I know it is not a route, but has anyone done the dyno on the tank boulder at wimberry?
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No. Although Skyler Weeks made a special trip to try it.
It must b V17 at least then
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Arete left of Giggling Crack @ Brimham?
Arete right of Goliath @ Burbage South?
Ripple right of and paralleling The Groove @ Cratcliffe?
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Reading that list you'd assume there's nothing left to do [in]Lancashire.
Montcliffe Arete?
It's not very hard. And is reasonably protected apart from the last move. Slightly sandy hold for the last move though. I think its suffering from 'where? Can't be arsed'. May go at e5 even.
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Reading that list you'd assume there's nothing left to do [in]Lancashire.
Montcliffe Arete?
It's not very hard. And is reasonably protected apart from the last move. Slightly sandy hold for the last move though. I think its suffering from 'where? Can't be arsed'. May go at e5 even.
Are you talking about the sharp arete or the rounded one? Be very surprised if the rounded arete was that easy.
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What he said. I think the sustained 7a climbing Wizard Ridge appears to comprise would warrant move than E7 even with a high side runner.
The [Millstone] arete is about E5 6a until the holds run out. Last move crux dyno. Probably E8/9 7a? Nasty landing and feels higher than you might think.
By 2005 standards. It doesn't look so big compared to Superstition for example.
7 years later and I'd revise my estimate downwards slightly to E7/8 7a (that's without having been on it in the intervening years), but with a healthy stack of pads under it it's probably very ground-upable. The landing isn't great in a mat-less stylee from what I remember. Still amazed this hasn't been done, especially as it gets mentioned every time one of these type of threads come up.
The Wizard Ridge "only E7" but "impossible" conundrum is splendid...
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Reading that list you'd assume there's nothing left to do [in]Lancashire.
Montcliffe Arete?
It's not very hard. And is reasonably protected apart from the last move. Slightly sandy hold for the last move though. I think its suffering from 'where? Can't be arsed'. May go at e5 even.
I'm on about the rounded one with no gear, I believe Nike Air looked at it briefly on top rope. Very few holds on the bottom section, looks hard:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/c4891ac2.jpg)
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Seeing as though i don't live in the peak anymore i thought i'd post my old project list here. Of course anyone in the know in the peak knows to contact Jonboy or Welford if they need a decent project. As Nige and a few others have said alot of LGPs are bollocks, e.g the groove at cratcliffe ended up getting climbed as an arete the scoop at black rocks leads nowhere. If the Uk gets a grit Ondra then they might become possible, but for now the below all look v possible. Smiling arete looks shite, its a ledge to a pop for good holds. Smiling buttress looks great but the landing is so crap that it'd not be a boulder problem nor a pleasant route, other projects are better at the minute.
Blackrocks:
lots
RHS:
sitter to musclin’ man
low prow near bens wall
crimpy as fuck pods/ roof right of big alqueda 20m
Cratcliffe. Just right of Sparrow start and up the ramp rightwards.
Clifftop: whackaboosha in the quarry (8B?) (got close)
Froggat,
ape drape,
renegade direct (8A+?) (got close)
Stanton:
quarry crack
up centre of wall and into stanton warriors
Roaches:
mushin direct
nth:
left of swivel finger (the other LGP at nth, me n caff did most of the moves except the last but werent giving it full beans)
in the woods, rising lip traverse (not too hard)
high arete on left with bad landing
5th:
ready brek direct,
high prow on crag above tetris,
bb north:
roof up from voyager (been tried by malc and welford in the past).
direct start to superstition
plantation:
Jons lip
ace sitter (7c+/8a into the stand)
Bosley cloud??
Churnet.
thumbelina area groove?
lines at lion rock
eagle tor:
sitter into feelgood or autumn from near heart arete
Turning stone,
roof by seeker arete?
Hen cloud:
The amazing arete with sloping landing
Slipstones:
blunt prow near ripper
Arch
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The above mentioned Wackaboosha arete project in Harthill Quarry. Worth a mention that this is just about the most rain proof line you’ll find on grit as it is covered by a large capping roof. There are also a couple of other potential desperate highballs further right in the quarry.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7173/6678539313_d6b00ba28b_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7147/6678539323_c7e9eed6e4_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7027/6678539329_d148089209_b.jpg)
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Reading that list you'd assume there's nothing left to do [in]Lancashire.
Montcliffe Arete?
It's not very hard. And is reasonably protected apart from the last move. Slightly sandy hold for the last move though. I think its suffering from 'where? Can't be arsed'. May go at e5 even.
I'm on about the rounded one with no gear, I believe Nike Air looked at it briefly on top rope. Very few holds on the bottom section, looks hard:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/c4891ac2.jpg)
Oh, that one. Brain must have discounted it as clearly impossible. E a million I reckon.
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Top list Dan!
It's all too easy to hoard projects for years, so nice one. Will be interesting to see what gets done...
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Must admit I have a 23 page 'Unclimbed Lines' doc on my work PC which probably counts as project hoarding. Here are a few probs/highballs I’ve seen but written off as far too hard for me, along with wildly vague guestigrades:
Double arete left of Jumpin on a Beetle 8a+-8b+?– Black Rocks
Left arete of Finale Wall 7c+-8a+? – Black Rocks
Big prow forming right side of chimney right of Suicide Wall 7c+-8a? – Cratcliffe
Cave under Dry Wit 8b-8c– Robin Hood’s Stride (have always written this off as impossible but looks to have received recent broken flake and chipping (!) and now looks just about feasible)
Vague arete/rib left of Shirley’s on same face 8a-8a+? – Stanage
Direct start to Massacre 8a-8a+? – Stanage
Big scary hanging lip on Brad Pit block 7c-7c+? – Stanage
Ape Drape roof 8b-8c? – Froggatt – Tried a bit by Nacho who did all but the crux move. Needs someone with same level of strength but a bigger span!
Wall just right of Chequers Groove 8a-8a+? – Froggatt
Rib right of Scoop De Grace 8a-8b?– Running Hill Pits
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Velvet crab roof direct
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how about the prow right of Tierdrop?
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Direct to Chameleon at Hen Cloud. Sloper madness, but I reckon the supertalented could do it. highball to break and gear, then E4 above. Or traverse off.
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The one I think really deserves doing is the arete/crack right of Ramshaw Crack. Sean Myles supposedly tried this and looking at it carefully it looks like not that many compression moves to stab the crack and jam to glory (painful mind). But it will involve putting a rope on and possibly velcro-ing a cam to one's chest ;)
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it looks like not that many compression moves to stab the crack and jam to glory (painful mind). But it will involve putting a rope on and possibly velcro-ing a cam to one's chest ;)
Sounds like it has Pete Whitaker written all over it!
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I tend to not to remember highball/routes, but here are some normal boulder problem projects...
The clamping line in Odin Cave, leading into The Dark Room. 8B, not including the 8A finishing line of The Dark Room. There is also a 50 degree overhanging section in that cave with bad pinches and such, would suit woody beasts. Not sure why this place isn't seeing more attention. It's probably dry right now, and just in case the video confused people, it is climbable during the day without headtorches.
To the right of Gibbering Wreck at Gib Tor, a short blank wall with a vague arete and undercut that it might just be possible to burl up. Never tried, so it might be completely impossible rather than just mostly impossible. Or it might be easy. 7B+/8A+.
The crackline in the cleft behind the 7A triangle problem at Burbage South. From sitting as low as possible, desperate layback moves to a hard top out. 8B.
The full trav of the Bad Landing Boulder, extending Drop Your Weapons into BB's Trav. I'm assuming when Bransby says 7C it won't be soft, and neither is Drop Your Weapons - then add pump. Shame it gets a bit bumscraping on the finish, but a Polish giant managed not to dab. 8A+?
Andronicus cave - from the left wall, climb into the roof and finish either centrally or along a 7C lip. 8B.
Roof left of Master Kush - tough compression moves from the back left, if you start as low as possible. 8B+. Alternatively, there are some Gaskins holds up the middle. 8C.
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The clamping line in Odin Cave, leading into The Dark Room. 8B, not including the 8A finishing line of The Dark Room. There is also a 50 degree overhanging section in that cave with bad pinches and such, would suit woody beasts. Not sure why this place isn't seeing more attention. It's probably dry right now, and just in case the video confused people, it is climbable during the day without headtorches.
Isn't that on lime rather than grit?
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Woops, so it is. Feels like grit in places though, some amazing textured slopers. Andronicus cave is limestone too, but again the style is very different to most peak lime.
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Aah this is a juicy read now, much better than "the scoop at blackrocks" (although i'm just going of hearsay for this or "the arete under masters of the universe or other distant fantasies.
The Right arete of meshuga climbed on its right has a tiny crimp and looks possible to get upto the e4 jump (guide is too far away to remember name of it) looked 8A+ish
I tend to not to remember highball/routes, but here are some normal boulder problem projects...
The clamping line in Odin Cave, leading into The Dark Room. 8B, not including the 8A finishing line of The Dark Room. There is also a 50 degree overhanging section in that cave with bad pinches and such, would suit woody beasts. Not sure why this place isn't seeing more attention. It's probably dry right now, and just in case the video confused people, it is climbable during the day without headtorches.
This is a great line but i had my most depressing climbing moment ever when a kid saw me in this cave and asked what i was doing, i was so embarrassed i left, if it wasn't so dank and dark it might be ok Jonboy knows about a much better crag (still a bit depressing) nearby which we did some cleaning at in the summer.
Andronicus cave - from the left wall, climb into the roof and finish either centrally or along a 7C lip. 8B.
Again looked but didn't touch
Roof left of Master Kush - tough compression moves from the back left, if you start as low as possible. 8B+. Alternatively, there are some Gaskins holds up the middle. 8C.
LOW. Not inspiring in my opinion, wall right of Niks wall looked better to me if had to go back to Rivelin.
Must admit I have a 23 page 'Unclimbed Lines' doc on my work PC which probably counts as project hoarding. Here are a few probs/highballs I’ve seen but written off as far too hard for me, along with wildly vague guestigrades:
Double arete left of Jumpin on a Beetle 8a+-8b+?– Black Rocks- CLASS
Left arete of Finale Wall 7c+-8a+? – Black Rocks- UTTER CLASS, thought this would/should get done this winter, v doable cough dolph/el mocho/ Ryan (ned knows already) are you reading this? worth a look.
Big prow forming right side of chimney right of Suicide Wall 7c+-8a? – Cratcliffe- Need about 10pads minimum but great looking.
Cave under Dry Wit 8b-8c– Robin Hood’s Stride (have always written this off as impossible but looks to have received recent broken flake and chipping (!) and now looks just about feasible)
Vague arete/rib left of Shirley’s on same face 8a-8a+? – Stanage
Direct start to Massacre 8a-8a+? – Stanage
Big scary hanging lip on Brad Pit block 7c-7c+? – Stanage
Ape Drape roof 8b-8c? – Froggatt – Tried a bit by Nacho who did all but the crux move. Needs someone with same level of strength but a bigger span! I have done the lanky move on this! its a bit eliminate as you could feasibly
Wall just right of Chequers Groove 8a-8a+? – Froggatt,
Rib right of Scoop De Grace 8a-8b?– Running Hill Pits - This sounds ace too
Neon Dust SS? Froggatt
2 more: neither looked much more than 8A
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7142/6722650993_6468d9e945.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/6722650993/)
eatswood project (http://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/6722650993/#) by Beastmaker. inc (http://www.flickr.com/people/beastmaker/), on Flickr
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7025/6722650445_3da7ca9fd8.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/6722650445/)
birchen project (http://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/6722650445/#) by Beastmaker. inc (http://www.flickr.com/people/beastmaker/), on Flickr
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The Birchens project is the vague leftwards trending rib out of katzy's problem incase anyone can't see it.
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Good posts slapper and bonjoy.
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how about the prow right of Tierdrop?
i tried something to the right of tier drop that involved both hands moving up 2 aretes then a jump for the top,i tried and missed the jump.ended up on my back under tier drop.knocked the wind right out of my sails
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the right arete behind the house at the roaches will be the roaches hardest route by miles when it gets done.
i cant see the ramshaw crack project getting done.holding the positions is possible,moving is a differant story
i remember ryan trying it and couldnt get off the ledge.
there is the hanging arete at ramshaw above night of lust,andi has done it on a rope numerous times
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i tried something to the right of tier drop that involved both hands moving up 2 aretes then a jump for the top,i tried and missed the jump.ended up on my back under tier drop.knocked the wind right out of my sails
This is the thing I was thinking of, likely to be always too hard for me:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7024/6776835031_75c32decb3.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ijt/6776835031)
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no.it was more to the right than that,certainly not a lgp.the 1 i fell off was v6 or 7 maybe.just a ooh i'll try that sort of moment whilst messing around in the area
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anyone mentioned the steep slab left of secret seventh?
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Just remembered this beauty! Discussed in an old thread circa 2007 and still unclimbed and probably untried I’d guess. At the time it was considered a bit borderline heightwise for the bouldering approach, but these days…
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/128/383679082_dadc3ba722.jpg)
It’s below the crag at Ravenstones. Tried in the past by Miles G who guessed at a grade of 7c+/8a.
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Just found this pic which looks to be of the other side of the prow.
(http://chewvalley.bravehost.com/images/ravenstones3.jpg)
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Not quite grit but close enough, the wall right of Where Angels Fear to Tread at Howlerhirst, visible from the tiny pointed flake upwards in this photo: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=168404 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=168404)
I abbed down this out of curiosity and thought "Think cranking up an impending wall on shallow pockets, hanging off fingertip monos placing tricams, and a wild dyno for a super-sloping top...mmmm". Go on carlisle slapper what are you waiting for ;)
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Just stumbled on Nik's thread about Mytholm Steeps...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2730/4348701710_fc9a108c08.jpg)
2)Uber-project, stand up at obvious hold, RH up to shit pocket, sort feet, LH up to poor undercut, sort feet, RH up to bomber jug. 3 moves, I can't do any of them. 8B and beyond.... You could add a sit or lie down start, a bit more climbing but wouldn't make it any harder.
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Has anyone got a picture of that Millstone arete? I remember seeing something of interest on the left, but can't remember what it looked like. Would be a good object of psyche.
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I thought you weren't very good and never left the Moors?
I have a pic, but its only shown to those who are man enough to call me a liar.
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manker@live.co.uk Would be sage if you could send it there. :) I do leave the moors.
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Just stumbled on Nik's thread about Mytholm Steeps...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2730/4348701710_fc9a108c08.jpg)
2)Uber-project, stand up at obvious hold, RH up to shit pocket, sort feet, LH up to poor undercut, sort feet, RH up to bomber jug. 3 moves, I can't do any of them. 8B and beyond.... You could add a sit or lie down start, a bit more climbing but wouldn't make it any harder.
8B and beyond with emphasis on the BEYOND that pockets shit.
On another note what about this rumored roof at Back Tor, heard mention of 8a+ ish etc yet not of anybody doing it. Is this another myth?
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I wouldn't post your email on a forum Franco, unless you love getting spammed.
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Adam you are a liar.
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You've seen it anyway.
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I wouldn't post your email on a forum Franco, unless you love getting spammed.
:lol:
We could sign him up to all sorts of dark and twisted shit ;)
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It's just an old trolling account.
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Not grit, but check this out
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=142334 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=142334)
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Not grit, but check this out
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=142334 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=142334)
love those big square aretes.
there is something that draws me in
think i will dust my boots off for a nesscliff visit this summer with tina turnip
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Direct start to Wuthering- almost top-roped by Johnny Dawes apparently. Bollocks
Big blank slab at the very far left of Millstone. Its an arete, but by all accounts doable
Wall right of Ulysses? Again, bollocks
Direct start to Fairy Steps?! You mean the 6c? I appreciate this isn't serious!
Just want to add a bit of realism to the proceedings. The Dawes things above are not projects, they are concepts. Lawrencefield project is the obvious one.
Dawes reckons he did all apart from the first two moves on the wall right of Ulysses. Are the first two moves impossible?
@16.15 Johnny Dawes 'Full Of Myself' Interview (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D88mEgfHJ-I#ws)
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Nah he was just too short / weak.
Good bump for this thread, come on you strong buggers, do some of these.
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Dawes reckons he did all apart from the first two moves on the wall right of Ulysses. Are the first two moves impossible?
@16.15 Johnny Dawes 'Full Of Myself' Interview (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D88mEgfHJ-I#ws)
I saw Johnny on a top rope on this once, with Paul Mitchell. I reckon there are more realistic LGPs around ;)
The wall left of Early Riser at Earl is a similar looking but more doable proposition, for example. I've tried it - it relies on using big pebbles at the top and has no gear. E11?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=97101 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=97101)
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Just stumbled on Nik's thread about Mytholm Steeps...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2730/4348701710_fc9a108c08.jpg)
2)Uber-project, stand up at obvious hold, RH up to shit pocket, sort feet, LH up to poor undercut, sort feet, RH up to bomber jug. 3 moves, I can't do any of them. 8B and beyond.... You could add a sit or lie down start, a bit more climbing but wouldn't make it any harder.
Break to break dyno may be more realistic than using the holds in between, oh Wiiiiiiiiiiiiill!
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I'd like to see a Will vs. Dyno Dave jumping competition...
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The rostrum (free) at shooters is listed in OTM as been tried but not done.
I saw Kevin Thaw trying it he thought about E8, if you try 20+ year old mild steel aid bolts for gear.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=49857 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=49857)
some gear up there if you can hang around to place it.
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Mytholm steeps
Break to break dyno may be more realistic than using the holds in between, oh Wiiiiiiiiiiiiill!
[/quote]
I pointed Polish Dave at this. He only had one or two goes before getting interested in something else. Pretty sure it's possible though.
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The rostrum (free) at shooters is listed in OTM as been tried but not done.
I saw Kevin Thaw trying it he thought about E8, if you try 20+ year old mild steel aid bolts for gear.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=49857 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=49857)
some gear up there if you can hang around to place it.
I think Pete W did it last year, E6 6c. Martin K got him clearing up a load of gaps...
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ah awesome. :)
Martin said he was trying to set Pete on it when I was up there with him last year, must have done it since then.
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I saw Johnny on a top rope on this once, with Paul Mitchell. I reckon there are more realistic LGPs around ;)
The wall left of Early Riser at Earl is a similar looking but more doable proposition, for example. I've tried it - it relies on using big pebbles at the top and has no gear. E11?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=97101 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=97101)
Good call, possible Snow Free Problem due to the capping roof??
Grit needs more E11s.
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Grit needs more E11s.
What's an E11?
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It's one of those cards to get in a hospital in Europe.
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From the other side...
Burbage 'Impossible' groove not impossible if you can do 4 English 7B moves in a row.Trouble is the right aręte is too close to make it a real classic.
The wall right of Zorev looks more possible.I did a few moves on it on the ab...
Only 3 English 7A moves in a row on that one...
Dawes and I tried to top rope the roof direct to Wuthering at Stanage.Jonny touched the jug just below the lip.I was about 2 inches off,even then,an old man,ten years ago.
It amazes me that NOBODY has tried this since.There are 2 tiny undercuts about 2 feet out from the back wall.Some good footwork allows one to reach out to get small flakes 2 thirds across the roof.From these it is possible to jump for the jug.An 8a boulderer 5 foot ten or more should be able to do it on a top rope.Then just get a huge stack of mats.
Come on ,get on an ab rope and look at the holds,instead of pussying about on the 6 foot probs at the Plantation...
The jug below the lip can be hung with one hand.
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There is a slighty overhanging tall blank wall at tegness quarry that needs attention, maybe not great but looks bloody hard, tiny crimps no gear, flattish landing
sssshhhhhhh
the arete to the right of smiling wall often (by lgp standards) sees attention, but it remains unclimbed.
I've had a couple of sessions on this lately (one in the rain) and I've made some good progress. There's only one move I haven't done but it's hard and quite high up. I think it will definitely go with a bit more effort. It's a bit reachy as well ;)
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Nice one beast.
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An 8a boulderer 5 foot ten or more should be able to do it on a top rope. Then just get a huge stack of mats.
WILLACKERS!!!
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no a last great prob but has anyone tried to repeat the stunning Gaskins route at thorn crag i think its called 'moment of clarity' it looks awesome!
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As I keep banging on about, the wall left of Womb With A View at Earl Seat needs to be done. Very pebbly but will (and nearly has some years ago) go. Ground up ethic in place.
Wall RIGHT of Womb With A View
Wall right of Eternal at Gorple. This is well scrubbed so obviously someone has tried (and possibly done, we shall see in the new guide). Doesn't look all that hard but is protectionless with a crap landing.
Direct finish to Cindy Crawford at Ilkley. Will go without too much extra effort apparently.
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no a last great prob but has anyone tried to repeat the stunning Gaskins route at thorn crag i think its called 'moment of clarity' it looks awesome!
I think there were a couple of fellas trying it in the snow last winter.. but I may have the wrong route in my head...
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There's one up the face left of Demon Rib at Black Rocks, totally independent of other routes. Climb up a groove just left of DR to a break and a cam, then climb the step slab above using a mono. The top looks like the crux and the cam in a touch below half height. Derek Bolger said he thought Matt Szabo top roped it years ago at 7a. It's lovely clean rock.
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Since meshuga was done has anyone given any serious attention to the left hand line on that prow, the one everyone used to try before meshuga was sussed out?
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There's one up the face left of Demon Rib at Black Rocks, totally independent of other routes. Climb up a groove just left of DR to a break and a cam, then climb the step slab above using a mono. The top looks like the crux and the cam in a touch below half height. Derek Bolger said he thought Matt Szabo top roped it years ago at 7a. It's lovely clean rock.
I know James Pearson has tried this on a rope. Said it had a great move off a pair of mono. Don't think he managed the crux, so I'd be surprised if Matt Szabo had done the move.
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What's the storry with the fallen block prow at Hen Cloud? To my eye this is the most impressive unclimbed line on grit. Anyone actually tried it? Hard to tell from the deck if it's really hard or just plain impossible.
The direct start to Baron Greenback is another.
Those two vague cracks on the left side of Black Wall at Hen Cloud. To be fair these are probably still unclimbed to a large extent because they are so rarely dry.
The Dyno project on the Velvet Silence block at Black Rocks. Rumour has it the bit after the dyno is the crux!
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Speaking of Black Rocks, has anyone else given the thing Nalle Hukkatukka was trying serious attention?
A project at Black Rocks on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/21047327)
Probably not an LGP, but looks like good climbing.
edit - this might be what the Bonjoyous one is referring to
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Speaking of Black Rocks, has anyone else given the thing Nalle Hukkatukka was trying serious attention?
A project at Black Rocks on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/21047327)
Probably not an LGP, but looks like good climbing.
edit - this might be what the Bonjoyous one is referring to
Thats the dyno project joveloy mentions above.
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Speaking of Black Rocks, has anyone else given the thing Nalle Hukkatukka was trying serious attention?
A project at Black Rocks on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/21047327)
Probably not an LGP, but looks like good climbing.
edit - this might be what the Bonjoyous one is referring to
I've done it from the slot to the top, very slopey and would probably be quite scary without a rope. Believe it or not I struggled with the dyno, I can't get my feet as high as Nalle does in that video. I have only had one short session on it, and I was a nursing a hangover.
I personally think it is worthy of the LGP status, it's very good, as is the arete to its right.
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Thats the dyno project joveloy mentions above.
Cheers word, I think I edited while you were posting.
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no a last great prob but has anyone tried to repeat the stunning Gaskins route at thorn crag i think its called 'moment of clarity' it looks awesome!
I think there were a couple of fellas trying it in the snow last winter.. but I may have the wrong route in my head...
Yes, Moment of Clarity.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/th_80bf96e3.jpg) (http://s280.photobucket.com/user/CyLwiki/media/80bf96e3.jpg.html)
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What's the storry with the fallen block prow at Hen Cloud? To my eye this is the most impressive unclimbed line on grit. Anyone actually tried it? Hard to tell from the deck if it's really hard or just plain impossible.
I know many moons ago Ollie Ryal from Buxton had dropped a rope down this. Not completely sure if it was top-roped in a oner, but I believe it's there for the taking....
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What's the storry with the fallen block prow at Hen Cloud? To my eye this is the most impressive unclimbed line on grit. Anyone actually tried it? Hard to tell from the deck if it's really hard or just plain impossible.
I know many moons ago Ollie Ryal from Buxton had dropped a rope down this. Not completely sure if it was top-roped in a oner, but I believe it's there for the taking....
I've not looked at this on a rope, but I've studied it pretty carefully from the ground and it looks absolutely nails. Super steep with the 'holds' pointing in the wrong direction. I would have thought it was in the Font 8c territory. Agree with Jonboy it's a King Line.
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The LGP I'd be interested to hear someone trying is the wall left of Early Riser at Earl. I've said it before, but having abbed it and tried some of the moves, it's definitely climbable. But it has a big move off two pebbles right at the top so you'd want about 20+ pads below it!
You can see the biggest hold on it in this photo (left of the left-hand green streak) http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=97101 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=97101)
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I abbed down both sides of that wall the other day.
There are a few holds but they are very spaced, I think it would be possible for someone, but the route I think you would have to take is very wandering, and I think if you fell from the top of that wall no amount of pads would save you. I only abbed it in trainers, I might have missed a few holds.
It's such an impressive bit of rock, it would be incredible to se someone climb it.
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I've been up at Hen Cloud whilst James Pearson was trying the fallen block arete. It was a tad sunny and hence warm, but still he was barely hanging positions let alone doing moves. It didn't really look possible to me.
Believe it or not I struggled with the dyno, I can't get my feet as high as Nalle does in that video.
Amazingly Nalle almost did the dyno within about ten minutes effort. I had a couple of goes and could get in the start position, but couldn't move once in it. About the only time I've been impressed with the strength of someone's toes, mine were screaming.
I've a watched a bunch of wads try the arete to the right, none made any impression on it. Impossible...
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Is that the chalk marks in the video?
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Both cool lines there.
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I've been up at Hen Cloud whilst James Pearson was trying the fallen block arete. It was a tad sunny and hence warm, but still he was barely hanging positions let alone doing moves. It didn't really look possible to me.
Believe it or not I struggled with the dyno, I can't get my feet as high as Nalle does in that video.
Amazingly Nalle almost did the dyno within about ten minutes effort. I had a couple of goes and could get in the start position, but couldn't move once in it. About the only time I've been impressed with the strength of someone's toes, mine were screaming.
I've a watched a bunch of wads try the arete to the right, none made any impression on it. Impossible...
I was jumping for the slot and getting within inches of it, but I didn't feel close, I briefly messed around using a poor undercut for the left hand which allowed me to get my feet a little higher, I think that's the way to go for me if I try it in the future.
I can't believe the arete to the right hasn't been done, it looks so good and there are holds all the way up.
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it looks so good and there are holds all the way up
No there aren't, there's a big gap at the bottom...
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I've been up at Hen Cloud whilst James Pearson was trying the fallen block arete. It was a tad sunny and hence warm, but still he was barely hanging positions let alone doing moves. It didn't really look possible to me.
But he was hanging the positions? One for the next generation?
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Dynamics of Change - Parthian Shot link??
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Dynamics of Change - Parthian Shot link??
Kneeling or crouching start?
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Has that blunt aręte at Rivelin been mentioned anywhere in this thread? I abseiled down it last year. Was definitely climbable and didn’t seem to desperate just very bold.
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Has that blunt aręte at Rivelin been mentioned anywhere in this thread? I abseiled down it last year. Was definitely climbable and didn’t seem to desperate just very bold.
Where is it?
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To the left of Ausfaut / exit. Independent line / moves. Quite hard and committing step up off a shelf to get established
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Enough of that nonsense TT, it's the line of the buttress!
Good call Dan.
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The one mentioned in the Black Rocks bit of the BMC guide. The wall / slab left of Demon Rib. Cam at just under half height. Immaculate rock. And it's in a 'gallery'.
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Wall left of Cave Wall at Froggatt. Looked at by Mike Lea some years ago.
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From the previous page ;D
There's one up the face left of Demon Rib at Black Rocks, totally independent of other routes. Climb up a groove just left of DR to a break and a cam, then climb the step slab above using a mono. The top looks like the crux and the cam in a touch below half height. Derek Bolger said he thought Matt Szabo top roped it years ago at 7a. It's lovely clean rock.
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As I keep banging on about, the wall left of Womb With A View at Earl Seat needs to be done. Very pebbly but will (and nearly has some years ago) go. Ground up ethic in place.
Wall RIGHT of Womb With A View
Shout out to say that both of these have been done. Isn't it great that we can look back on things that were standing projects and see them done?
The wall on the left gave The Chieftain and the more superior line of Your Grace. Your Grace is the thing that I put some time into and Dan Varian eventually gave it 7B+. This grade is either wrong or they used a different sequence to what I tried. Your Grace is a definite step up in difficulty from any of the 7B+ walls that I've done and contains the single hardest move I think I've ever completed. So that's my ego saved ;)
The wall on the right needs a direct start adding to it. Is that even possible?
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As I keep banging on about, the wall left of Womb With A View at Earl Seat needs to be done. Very pebbly but will (and nearly has some years ago) go. Ground up ethic in place.
Wall RIGHT of Womb With A View
Shout out to say that both of these have been done. Isn't it great that we can look back on things that were standing projects and see them done?
The wall on the left gave The Chieftain and the more superior line of Your Grace. Your Grace is the thing that I put some time into and Dan Varian eventually gave it 7B+. This grade is either wrong or they used a different sequence to what I tried. Your Grace is a definite step up in difficulty from any of the 7B+ walls that I've done and contained the single hardest move I think I've ever completed. So that's my ego saved ;)
The wall on the right needs a direct start adding to it. Is that even possible?
All of these do look exceptionally good, been meaning to check them out for some time. On the topic of Your Grace it is definitely worth taking all of Dan's grades with a pinch of salt.
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I climbed Your Grace just after Dan and can confirm the grade, we went to the slot with the right hand
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I climbed Your Grace just after Dan and can confirm the grade, we went to the slot with the right hand
Couple of questions. Has the pebble that's round to the left now gone? You used to drape a middle finger over it and it turned the arete into a good sloper. I'd heard that it's gone but it looks in the Flickr pic like it's still there?
Did you then bump your hand up the arete in order to get the slot with the right hand? If not, how tall are you? It never really felt like there was any other part of the left arete that was useable so I didn't clean it.
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My memory is woefully poor so I’ll tell you what I can remember.. there’s a dimple on the left on the left which I used for my middle finger before going to the slot but I think there’s a pebble a tad lower
I’m average height (5.10 ish), it was a big span for me but not ridiculous
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Nice one, ta. It sounds like the pebble is still intact and that I should have tried your sequence :slap:
You live and learn.
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RIP Will's ego :'(
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RIP Will's ego :'(
Can’t now use height as an excuse as UKB has determined Will is neither tall nor short :)
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on the left on the left
Will's' dead ego in the box on the left.
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on the left on the left
Will's' dead ego in the box on the left.
:lol:
There is no violin small enough for this situation.
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(https://media.giphy.com/media/13Cys1xa3cZGRa/giphy.gif)
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"The wall on the right needs a direct start adding to it. Is that even possible?"
Thats where i bloody went! as if you'd ever bother stepping in from half height on that wall. It is a similar style of "eliminate" to Chieftain in that sense which comes even closer to the crack at the top.
Alex went RH to the pocket, i actually went LH and barely used the arete as it involved bending my wrist, which at the time didnt bend much. The grades of both are maybe harsh for yorkshire but fair enough for slabs in general, its easier than Dalle de fer and super prestat IMO. Le Denmat being a fairly solid reference for les pieds fort. The 3 slabs are absolutely superb and worthy of their lofty position in the Shire.
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Gotcha. For some reason I thought you'd gone up the crack a couple of moves.
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There's still some good fun stuff to be done in the Peak.
May not qualify for LGP status, but not a scratch:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4803/45505836234_6a6d64b033_h.jpg)
:ninja:
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Where is this looks worth a look
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Looks a bit like The Brow.
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Where is this looks worth a look
I could tell you.. :)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4841/31304345887_fb80b44c14_b.jpg)
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Looks familiar, unless I've got it all wrong. Seem to remember the landing wasn't great, but it looked worth climbing. Not a last great project, just something not yet climbed.
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I think it's a really sweet spot.
Other problems there.
Requires transport .. and less rain!
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The left hand side of the aręte of Flight of Ideas with a direct start? Looks a pretty commiting and independent line
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The left hand side of the aręte of Flight of Ideas with a direct start? Looks a pretty commiting and independent line
That's Common Misconception E6 6c, Pete Whittaker
https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=155393
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Ah, cheers Mark. Just peeped round the corner while having a rope on flight this arvo. Have you checked out that blunt aręte left of exit at Rivelin?
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No I hadn't spotted that before. May give it a go if I get a chance. Not been out much recently.
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Cool, be keen to hear what you think. Climbing on the back burner? I try and get out once a week whatever the weather.
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There's still some good fun stuff to be done in the Peak.
May not qualify for LGP status, but not a scratch:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4803/45505836234_6a6d64b033_h.jpg)
:ninja:
That looks like something I climbed a few years ago at the very far right of Gardoms, in woods below Moorside. I climbed the right arete of the jutting block at 6c. The left arete would be similar grade but has a pretty nasty landing. Pretty sure I wrote up in one of my update posts.
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https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23973.msg442682.html#msg442682
It's called No Now Bernard. Also did some other bits nearby also recorded on that thread. Still odd bits left to do though. Bo Line and Sheepshank Redemption are very good and we'll worth a visit.
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https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23973.msg442682.html#msg442682
It's called No Now Bernard. Also did some other bits nearby also recorded on that thread. Still odd bits left to do though. Bo Line and Sheepshank Redemption are very good and we'll worth a visit.
Thanks for the link Bonjoy.
It's interesting, though. I had a look at these many years ago. There's a lot of lichen, and I've never seen any sign of activity (brushing etc).
The jutting prow on the left side looks good, as does the blunt arete to the left.
Lines on the smaller block further left look good too.
In my view, it's a lovely little venue. Are your lines on a topo anywhere?
A couple of extra photos.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1919/44441216450_a910059720_c.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1926/45534742354_e1c2dc7794_h.jpg)
Edit. When I went back this year, I thought it looked a bit less lichenous than I remembered it. Maybe a bit of sympathetic cleaning?
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That second pic is the block with Bo Line and Sheepshank on it. I have some vids I'll put on my vimeo when I can find them. That block takes run off and is often wet so regreens pretty quick I think. I think Alain Gordon Seymour may actually have beaten me to the FA of Bo Line but like you I assumed it was unclimbed due to heavy lichen.
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Ah well Dave, thought it might be too good to be true. Still, a couple of lines to go at it the weather ever dries up.
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23973.msg442682.html#msg442682
It's called No Now Bernard. Also did some other bits nearby also recorded on that thread. Still odd bits left to do though. Bo Line and Sheepshank Redemption are very good and we'll worth a visit.
Thanks for the link Bonjoy.
It's interesting, though. I had a look at these many years ago. There's a lot of lichen, and I've never seen any sign of activity (brushing etc).
The jutting prow on the left side looks good, as does the blunt arete to the left.
Lines on the smaller block further left look good too.
In my view, it's a lovely little venue. Are your lines on a topo anywhere?
A couple of extra photos.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1919/44441216450_a910059720_c.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1926/45534742354_e1c2dc7794_h.jpg)
Edit. When I went back this year, I thought it looked a bit less lichenous than I remembered it. Maybe a bit of sympathetic cleaning?
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Dynamics Of Change - Parthian Shot link?
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Dynamics Of Change - Parthian Shot link?
death
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Anyone on here tried the wall to the right of walk on by?
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Wall right of Terrace Crack at Froggatt. Has a wire lowdown but a hard/bold finish.
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Anyone on here tried the wall to the right of walk on by?
Not personally, but it has been tried by a few.