UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: bolehillbilly on August 07, 2022, 11:34:46 am
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There's a chance I'll be on the bike support team on Mon/Tues and have a couple of hours to kill near Ilkley. Can anyone help with suggestions for a bouldering venue with the following list of essentials
Short drive from Ilkley
Shortish walk in, 10-15 mins
North facing aspect
Phone signal
Good circuit of 5s and 6s
A classic 7A/+ (soft touch holiday tick would be ideal)
Easy to navigate around, I haven't got a guide.
Decent landings, not too highball.
Have had a look at Swastika Stones which might fit the bill but any other suggestions welcome.
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I’d be tempted to stay in the main area and do the circuit of 5’s and 6’s in the back quarries and Lost Boots then have Olicana Arête as your 7
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A couple of other options.
Caley roadside. 15ish from Ilkley, walk in is short. May be a pain to navigate around without a guide though, might be stuff on 27 crags or whatever that grim site is called.
West chevin boulders (15 min drive, about 5min walk in) on unknown stones, which might be worth a look to see if it gets your juices going.
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I’d be tempted to stay in the main area and do the circuit of 5’s and 6’s in the back quarries and Lost Boots then have Olicana Arête as your 7
Yep, this.
Caley isn't great in Summer. Gets very overgrown.
West Chevin is a good shout.
Swastika Stones is lovely and will involve less ogling from tourists, only downside being the steep uphill walk to reach it. Pogo Arete is a classic 7B and there are some brilliant 5s and 6s like Swastika Eyes and the arete to its left.
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I'd probably lean towards Caley Roadside. There's plenty of boulders within seconds of each other and the road with various aspects. I recently went with the kids and its not that bad navigating the more well travelled boulders.
You could easily find and have a session on the classic New Jerusalem (very soft 7A unless its been officially downgraded now), the one to the left of it which is down as 7C on ukc but actually 7A+ and quite good, Forked Lightning Crack (6B), various lower 6's in the nearby area.
Edit: actually scratch that, just go to Almscliff!
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Just putting out there that I think sub-7 bouldering at Ilkley is crap. And Olicana Arete is nails. I'd go to Caley or Almscliff.
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Shipley Glen or Baildon? (Though unsure on the aspect…)
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Nuclear death heat suntraps at both.
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Thanks all for the advice. I'll do a bit of research this morning but thinking Caley might be a good option to explore.
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Snowden might be a good bet. Ticks all your criteria I think. Has some nice high 6 low 7s with good landings.
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Snowden might be a good bet. Ticks all your criteria I think. Has some nice high 6 low 7s with good landings.
Still currently covered in axle grease as far as I know
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Still currently covered in axle grease as far as I know
If anyone’s qualified to sort this out it’s BHB ;)