UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: duncan on November 18, 2018, 06:46:17 pm
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Greetings punters and wads.
STG: strength work (bouldering / fingerboard) 2-3 times a week. Manage aches and pains. Do a Kettle movement drill each time I go to the wall.
MTG: a proper 7b+ this year winter.
LTG: a classic Pembroke E5; 5.13 at 60
M - Bouldering Vauxwall east. Shoulder felt tweaky so easy session. Shoulder strength (reverse flys, inclined rows, front and side planks)
T - Shoulder stretches
W -
T - Shoulder stretches, shoulder strength
F - Shoulder stretches, shoulder strength
S - Shoulder stretches, shoulder strength, hips and knees strength (squats, bridges).
S - Fingerboard. Brief max. hangs. Not very max., mostly getting myself re-acquainted with it after a few weeks off. Hips and knees strength.
Easier week: under the weather with a cold, fed-up with work issues, persistent insomnia, and shoulder tweaky again. 7b+ or even another 7b seems some way off. Have stretched deadline for the MTG.
Plan: shoulder, knee and hip strength/conditioning twice weekly. Gradually build up the fingerboarding and resume bouldering when shoulder allows.
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M -
T -
W - Went to the Glen for a lamp sesh. Warmed up for a little bit at home on the fingerboard/pull up bar. Usual warm up of Daz Manson's, the Manson's-Phil's eliminate, and Phil's. Started on Red Baron Roof and spent time trying to get the cut loose to work. Sussed it in the end - it's all about how you hold the crimp. By the end of the session I was having proper attempts at it with mixed success. Best go was sticking the cut loose and throwing the heel up on the right but slipping off as my rh slipped. This is proper progress.
T - some mates were going to the Glen so joined them. Warmed up on some of the easy highballs at the right end. Then showed them the beta on The Green Traverse. I find this really beta intensive, it's got two distinct crux sections back to back which are probably 6C+ and 6B+ and there's a bit of crimpy climbing to do to get into it. Feels as hard as anything I redpointed over the summer so was pleased to repeat it.
F -
S -
S - Simon's Seat with Warbs. Tried a project wall which didn't go. Not sure if I even made progress on it. Nails! Went to look at a host of 7As under the trig point and came away very disappointed Pinna has got a shoddy landing as well as being quite green. The stuff around triptych was similarly green or spoiled by shocking landings. Pulled on a couple of times before sacking it off. Walked past Whaleback and did that. Think that's easier now that the chicken head has gone because the rules have naturally relaxed about what's allowed.
Went down to Dinomania and was disappointed to find the start covered in wet lichen.
The day was saved by the tall slab at dalehead on the way down where we did a collecting of slabs and a 6B thing. For my money, the middle slab on that boulder is harder than Psycho but less scary - still a bit wobbly at the top though!
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First week of a new working pattern (thanks to my employers if you're reading :2thumbsup:), coincided with a fair bit of bad luck/poor decision making.
M - down to Burbage South for half 1ish. Lovely conditions. Did The Sheep quickly which was brilliant, and was just heading up to the edge when the forecast 10% chance of a shower became 100% heavy rain. Utterly soaked. Went to the Leeds Depot. Normal board warm ups then managed one of my three current projects second go - been trying it for about a year off and on so very satisfying although as is often the case it felt easy on the send. Handful of goes each on my two others, some progress made.
T - repeat of my lunchtime circuit of one arm pull ups, weighted pull ups, dips and TRX Is & Ts. Felt good.
W - utterly wasted from two long days at work but got out for a quick run.
T - morning max hangs, 5x 10s +25kg on the BM2K low edges 4f HC. In the afternoon got out to try Phoenix Wall at Panorama Crag. Baking hot in full sun (was wearing shorts and t shirt) and completely failed to exercise any sort of discipline and wait for cooler temps as darkness fell. Best go got three fingers on the top hold but slipped off and then split my LH index fingertip next go ::)
F - rest
S - short run
S - Earl. Lovely day, cold in a reasonable breeze but fairly humid. Everything disappointingly caked in chalk and tick marks on arrival >:( normal circuit warm up then onto Lager3. Once again completely failed. Best go made it to the RH move to the penultimate hold but didn't even really try to stick it. Must be eighth session now over three or four seasons. Total mental block I think (not to mention I'm just generally terrible at technical climbing, hence trying to focus on such problems a bit more).
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Thanks Duncan.
M: Curbar. First session there this season... nice - and rock felt good when the sun came out, but was T shirt conditions so not primo. Usual warm ups on trackside boulder. Eased up Trackside first go which felt good (I know I like a soft grade or 10, but this feels like 6B to me...) Decided to spend some SkinCredits (tm) on SideTrack - and technique/body position felt alot better on it than before - but the lower sloper on the arete was just too slimey/squelchy in the sun for it to work. Moved on to Dans Arete (another that has eluded me) and having seen a couple of vids of people using the low footblock managed to do it using that. Which felt 6C+/7A to me... without the footblock the moves feel fecking nails. Anyway, the light, colours and clouds were good so I filmed it.. Then moved on to Great White - and got to where i was last year/if not better - and reached/grabbed/held for a sec or two the sidepull. I know its certainly not over from there but nice to get there at the end of a session...
https://youtu.be/ONfah17pgOY
W: BBG S on the way back from work to home. Not the best forecast, not the best conditions... its always a bit random where I drop off the edge, and ended up near Standup Arete and Fuji Heavy Industries (FHI) etc.. did the arete, but the top was a wet sheet of green... Tried to top a couple of times and just gave up to save the top belly flop/stand up for a drier time... FHI was interesting. the move off the deck hurt my right knee a bit - but I could span between both aretes - so rather an use the next ot your foot sidepull to keep you in before heading up to the good holds above I could monkey my LH up the arete with my RH on the right arete - get half standing and boink up to the holds. Cheating? Discuss :)
Then headed over to the Rib - and was shit.
Fr: Mother in law came over - me and MrsTT went to the cinema for the first time in probably a year in the afternoon - and then went out for dinner in the evening. Baby was still up when we came back at 11 :D
Sa: Baby slept to 8:30.... Went out - looked like a cracking day in Manchester, so went to Widdop. It was clearing clag, decent wind - but lots of dampness around. Remarkably despite stone walls looking sketchy and wet roads, much of the boulders were dry. Apart from the tops that were green slime death slabs. Did splashdown, moved on to Fight on the Black - a semi nemesis. Took ages to figure out what I did before - and by then had moved past the pain threshold in my left pebble hooking finger and right tips. It was really not great conditions - and to the team that came up after me - the huuge tickmark on FOTB wasnt me - I tried to clean it! Then got really close to the 7A Hurricane on the otehr side of the block until I lost a load of skin and sacked it off...
https://youtu.be/ZgbLtfnNtHs
(warning contains profanity and moderate gore)
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M: Arch. Rushed warm-up and twinged finger, felt a bit better after more warming up so tried repeater session. Got ludicrously pumped and knackered so gave up as didn't want to risk finger. Finished with a load of ring and bar work including Sean McColl's 5-5-5 (punter) challenge.
T: Dawn Wall
W: Arch. Fingers still not feeling fighting fit so avoided the fingerboard today. Warmed up on problems then did a fair bit of campusing. 1-4-7 big rungs R leading, close with L. 1-4-6 middle rungs. Then did 1-4-6 on small rungs for the first time ever (in between BM1K bottom outside crimps and BM2K bottom outside crimps). Pretty psyched by that. Then went to a relaitvely new set and flashed 3 V5ish problems before trying some harder stuff. Ended by getting a new muscle-ups PB (on bar) of 12 :D
T:
F:
S: Cratcliffe. Many attempts on T Crack 7B, fell many times from the top, slightly higher than in March. Still on the top pocket with heel up. Retro-flashed Razor Roof 6C then went to try Jerry's Traverse. This is really hard and did all the moves but no way I'd link.
S: Stoney Middleton. Took mates to see Tom's Roof and had a play, feeling weak. Went onto Minus Ten and did the Middle Break Traverse many times, getting pumped. Added some extensions at start and end to make some nice link ups.
Been pretty hit with cold and flu-y symptoms which won't have helped my climbing, along with putting on a couple of kgs so poor climbing weekend was to be expected.
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T: Dawn Wall
Just nipped in for a repeat on your rest day...
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M:Rest
T:Max hangs
W:BUK 55, quality session. Repeated most harder things I'd done before, felt psyched and spent too long on the board as a result.
T:Rest
F:Probably over did it on Wednesday as felt pretty fatigued. BUK 55 though, managed to tick a sitter I'd worked at last time I was investing time on the board. Did a little campussing on the smalls (1-4-7 right side, not even close on the left) felt boxed!
S:Rest
S:Depot, still fairly fatigued. Managed to tick most of the new purples at the depot before doing some longer boulders on the 30 board. Gym session in the evening, bench press, shoulder press and lat pull down
Groins not hurting as much anymore, have to avoid quite a few types of moves but seem to be getting by okay. Will probably try and shorten the board session on Wednesday this week so it doesn't kill me off for the rest of the week! Psych can be dangerous!
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M - Repeaters, gymnastics, core
T 3x10 mins LI AeroCap, legs
W saw physio
Th rest
Fr Repeaters, half a TRX workout, legs, core
S - HI AeroCap. pumped after 4 reps, realised I hadn't done this for 5 weeks. Doubled rest time and just scraped through 10 reps
S - rested intending to climb Monday but late afternoon, without doing anything, I suddenly couldn't use my right arm unless it was locked into the side of my body. Even opening the fridge door hurts it and I can't actually raise it over my head without serious discomfort.
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Went out - looked like a cracking day in Manchester, so went to Widdop. It was clearing clag, decent wind - but lots of dampness around. Remarkably despite stone walls looking sketchy and wet roads, much of the boulders were dry. Apart from the tops that were green slime death slabs. Did splashdown, moved on to Fight on the Black - a semi nemesis. Took ages to figure out what I did before - and by then had moved past the pain threshold in my left pebble hooking finger and right tips. It was really not great conditions - and to the team that came up after me - the huuge tickmark on FOTB wasnt me - I tried to clean it! Then got really close to the 7A Hurricane on the otehr side of the block until I lost a load of skin and sacked it off...
Hah! I should have kept in touch on FB. Drove for for 3 hours in glorious warm sunshine. Decided plan A of Hawkstones was going to be too warm, so changed plan to Clatteringstones. Similar to you I popped out of Burnley into horizontal
clag and arctic death wind. Could barely open the car door at the parking. Drove past Widdop, saw there were people there, thought "fuck queuing up with a load of lanky anorexic Depot wankers under FOB" and continued around to Hawkstones. Walked in. Touched the rock. The most dismaying pile of decaying scrittle I've ever seen. I'd rather highball at Cilan Head. Walked out again. Plan C went to Scout which was okay condition (I think the weirdness this weekend was a cold fresh Easterly BUT unusually high humidity for an Easterly) but the initial easy circuit was a bit shit. Felt ropey and didn't do much. So I should have gone to Widdop anyway ;)
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T: Dawn Wall
Just nipped in for a repeat on your rest day...
:lol:
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Rehab Diaries Week Thirteen
STG- Leading low 6s/ HVS and carrying normal loads to crags by end of Sept 2019.
M- Rest. Battered from using the leg machines the previous day.
T- Swimming. First time since the day before my accident. This was a bit of a wake-up call as it was also the first time I've felt disabled for months. I've never been great at breaststroke but my lack of leg strength and dreadful hip flexibility meant I felt like I was getting no propulsion from my legs whatsoever- using a float for my arms confirmed this. It's a good job that this swimming pool is all shallow end (it's part of a school) so I could put my feet on the bottom whenever and an even better job that my girlfriend dissuaded me from trying to swim in the sea at the end of July. :???:
W- Gym. 30 minutes on the bike as usual, up one level as usual.
T- Rest.
F- Kendal. Only there for one day which didn't coincide with Dawn Wall or Free Solo (how have I managed not to see these films yet?!) but did see as many other climbing films as possible, of which I enjoyed Statement of Youth and Blood Moon the most.
S- Foundry Autobelays. Did my 6b+ project. Fucking buzzing. :dance1:
S- Gym in the morning. My leg press limit with my left leg is up to 18kg from last week's 11 :weakbench: . Benchmarked my right leg (just under 30kg) and both legs (just under 50- 10kg less than I weigh) bests too. When I do it with my left leg I have to shout and grunt and all the guys on the other machines look at me :lol:
I then tried the "Hip adductor" machines. Both are hard (I can do a puny 25kg on each) but while I've no idea what the use of the one where you squeeze inwards is, the one where you push outwards seems highly suited to my weaknesses. After that I tried the weird stair-treadmill thing, which is definitely useful for me (going up stairs has been a big weakness ever since I stopped using a crutch) and I think I'll try using it instead of the exercise bike this week- it replicates the out-of-breathness I get on walk-ins.
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Decided to try this out. Always enjoy reading it and might make be a better climber!
Stg
*climb once a week
*Do pullups
Mtg 8b+, 8A+
Ltg 8c, 8B
M- rest
T- Little Pig 7c at 10pm. pushing the limits of how late I can be out. tired the following day. not the most inspiring line but not bad, some nice movements. wasn't sure if it would go at first, frustratingly warm for 10pm but came together with a little change of beta.
W - rest
T - Board - sent another of the projects, made another project that turned out to be too easy when I did it first go. good pull-ups at the end, slow progress but persistence is key!
F S S rest rest rest
good week again. 7c on the grit and a project on the board. shame to not get out at the weekend but looked a bit warm anyway and worth it to hang out with friends and family
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T- Rest.
I forgot to put that when I had a blood test in the early evening (hopefully the last one of this whole episode) I got the nurse to measure me as I knew I was now shorter. I'm 171cm tall, 7 centimetres less than before! :???: :lol:
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Decided to try this out. Always enjoy reading it and might make be a better climber!
Effort. I find it useful to add some (training) structure to my normally structureless toddler supporting life :)
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STG: keep training, no booze during the week
LTG: WTF now?
Another quick update for me, disjointed week due to broken down cars, p\rtner's 40th, non-work commitments and general 5am start tiredness meaning I worked from home 3 days out of 5, and therefore didn't get to the gym.
Did a "Big Depot" session (as opposed to a big Depot session) on Weds eve. 5 x autobelay routes to warm up, then punter campus routine, then a bit of bouldering to finish. Still couldn't stick the anti-style V5 I tried the week previous, but did close out an awkward knacky V4 slab problem.
Looking like I'll be working from home a fair bit in the future. Mission this week is to get my fingerboard up for some lunchtime repeater sessions.
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Drove past Widdop, saw there were people there, thought "fuck queuing up with a load of lanky anorexic Depot wankers under FOB" and continued around to Hawkstones.
Edit: This is just referring to generic boulderers / tickers / baggers etc, young men especially, and not referring to anyone in particular. Just in case it was misinterpreted.
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Drove past Widdop, saw there were people there, thought "fuck queuing up with a load of lanky anorexic Depot wankers under FOB" and continued around to Hawkstones.
Edit: This is just referring to generic boulderers / tickers / baggers etc, young men especially, and not referring to anyone in particular. Just in case it was misinterpreted.
You forgot to mention the disturbing ‘Hipster’ boulderer. Skinny cords, likes beige offset by day glow pad and bucket, ecologically and emotionally sound, wears toe down orange and black scarpa boots. Wears a styled beard and moustache and is sponsored by Apple.
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Then moved on to Great White - and got to where i was last year/if not better - and reached/grabbed/held for a sec or two the sidepull. I know its certainly not over from there but nice to get there at the end of a session...
I might consider promoting you to being a first tier friend if you tick that
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S- Foundry Autobelays. Did my 6b+ project. Fucking buzzing. :dance1:
Nice one shorty! Let me know if you want a lift to Peak area meet on weds
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Power Club
Mon - bicep curl and press complex; high pulls, cleans and snatch pulls complex; tricep planks and abs complex, back to back x8.
Tue - rest.
Wed - brilliant session. Press, high pulls, cleans (30, 40, 50 kg) 5x5. Pull ups in between sets. Final 40" lock off.
Thu - snatch, cleans, pull ups 5x5. Tricep planks x5, abs x25, lock offs 30" x5.
Fri - donated blood. Rested and ate. A lot.
Sat - high pulls, press, cleans, pull ups 5x10. Farmer's walk various minutes.
Sun - bicep curl 10x5; tricep planks 10x5; rdl, bentover row 10x2x3; Hackey pull 20x2.
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Decided to try this out. Always enjoy reading it and might make be a better climber!
Mtg 8b+, 8A+
Ltg 8c, 8B
Any in mind Jim?
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11.3-4 average 158.0 up 1.0lb on last week
M. PM Foundry campus. Did 1-4-7 with a smear on back wall on large rungs on Right Arm and 1-4 and touch 6 on medium rungs on both arms
T. Froggat with Paul Reeve. 8 degrees and sunny. Re-opened account on Hot Toddy 7A+. Got close a few times to getting the sloper.
W.
T. Back again to Hot Toddy this time with NickC. Warmer but cloudier. Nick got it and I didn’t though I did apply myself and tried bloody hard. Could do with some success
F. Up to Kendal with Keith and Steve. Stopped at Crig Y Longridge. Uninspiring greasy conditions. Decided to save myself and went back to car. Eve Watched Statement of Youth which was good then drank
S. Glorious day. Keith insisted on going to the Bowderstone and ended up taking nearly 2 hours as there was roadworks. National Trust guiys were dismantelling aand sawing up the ladders so that made for an unpeaceful day. Did the V3 warm up traverse and The Rib which is given 6B on UKC. :oDesperate. A regular (Lee) showed us the beta on Picnic Sarcastic 7A+ which was the right grade. Keith got it. I managed to get to the last two handholds twice then fluffed it organising my feet/heel for the last pop. Failed yet again. :( Eve watched Free Solo which was mindblowing
S. Another beautiful. This time up to Carrock Fell using the motorway. Did a bunch of stuff the highlight being the well positioned prow of Sing a Rainbow 7A which actually felt no harder than The Rib and then onsighted I Can, I Can't 6C next to it to finish.
Felt like a loser most of the week so good to end it on a high. Also done a fair bit of thinking about training and going to start doing more but shorter fingerboard sessions aiming for about 3x per week. Also going to do one indoor Power Session and one indoor Strength session each week too. Outside I'm going to aim to get at least one new-to-me 7 each week.
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...then went to try Jerry's Traverse. This is really hard and did all the moves but no way I'd link.
I genuinely thought you'd path that, fingers too big?
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M- rest
T- rest.
W- sacked off work and went to Malham to try and finish off Predator. 2 failed redpoints at the crux later I was resigned to coming back in the spring when John told me to have another go. Half an hour later in the fading light I absolutely pathed it in a state of disbelief. I wasn't even pumped. The whole thing felt about 7a. Absolute madness, couldn't believe I was clipping the chains. Can only presume the state of relaxation I was in made the difference. It's all in the mind, this climbing thing. Made up to finish it off this year and have a stress free few months.
T- rest!
F- flight to Barcelona. Picked up by friend in van and opted for Siurana. Pissed it down most of the drive there.
S- Arboli, El Falco. Great crag, did 5 routes between 6c and 7b. Good onsighting day inbetween showers.
S- Siuranella. A few low 7s and Lua 7c, which I should have onsighted but neglected to read the guide to see which way it went. Punter.
Here until next Sunday which will be great. Suits the crimpy British climber does Siurana!
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M- rest
T- rest.
W- sacked off work and went to Malham to try and finish off Predator. 2 failed redpoints at the crux later I was resigned to coming back in the spring when John told me to have another go. Half an hour later in the fading light I absolutely pathed it in a state of disbelief. I wasn't even pumped. The whole thing felt about 7a. Absolute madness, couldn't believe I was clipping the chains. Can only presume the state of relaxation I was in made the difference. It's all in the mind, this climbing thing. Made up to finish it off this year and have a stress free few months.
Here until next Sunday which will be great. Suits the crimpy British climber does Siurana!
:beer2: Last chance saloon, well done!
For onsighting I recommend Avatar, an amazing journey of a 7c with a bit of everything (crag: Salt de la reina mora) and Hot Knife at Negoicee. I onsighted neither but had a bloody great time trying.
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Hi all
M- nul
T- nul
W- Armed Forces Bouldering League at Bristol Bloc: Happy to come 2nd to a BBC finalist, thanks to flashing some techy volumey slab things which are normally my nemeses.. Alison also climbed well, beating loads of the blokes, so both went home well satisfied.
T- nul
F- nul
S- nul
S- Stoke AW - did the comp circuit from Thursday; scored 252/300 which would have placed 4th.. Again happy with that as done in half the time..
Back to rock soon I hope..
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...then went to try Jerry's Traverse. This is really hard and did all the moves but no way I'd link.
I genuinely thought you'd path that, fingers too big?
That and an inability to lock...
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National Trust guiys were dismantelling aand sawing up the ladders so that made for an unpeaceful day.
Didn't know they were changing the ladder. Shame it disrupted your day but good to read on the NT website that the new design will keep climbers in mind.
How was the Stone conditions wise, any seepage/drips?
Genuinely would have thought Jerry's Trav and T Crack should be the perfect problems for you Coops! :-\
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also surprised coops! would have thought you'd cruise them both with all the campussing youre doing!
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also surprised coops! would have thought you'd cruise them both with all the campussing youre doing!
I've experienced similar. I found it fairly steady and I'm terrible at campusing but my friend who can do 1-5-8 found it very hard. I wonder if it's less to do with campus ability and more about accuracy when getting fingers into those cracks.
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Maybe exposes a weakness in shoulders strecthed out wide?
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Decided to try this out. Always enjoy reading it and might make be a better climber!
Mtg 8b+, 8A+
Ltg 8c, 8B
Any in mind Jim?
Keeping my card close to my chest :tease:
Wrote these a while back, maybe need revising. Routes are very long term as sacked them off while I'm time short.
Boulders not picked a specific project yet. Something crimpy obviously. Any suggestions?
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Bleh, too confrontational.
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Decided to try this out. Always enjoy reading it and might make be a better climber!
Mtg 8b+, 8A+
Ltg 8c, 8B
Any in mind Jim?
Keeping my card close to my chest :tease:
Wrote these a while back, maybe need revising. Routes are very long term as sacked them off while I'm time short.
Boulders not picked a specific project yet. Something crimpy obviously. Any suggestions?
For 8Bs? I may as well suggest the best kind of piano. If you want suggestions for 6cs however, I'm your man.
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also surprised coops! would have thought you'd cruise them both with all the campussing youre doing!
I've experienced similar. I found it fairly steady and I'm terrible at campusing but my friend who can do 1-5-8 found it very hard. I wonder if it's less to do with campus ability and more about accuracy when getting fingers into those cracks.
Campus ability isn't necessary for Jerry's, I couldn't do 1-4-6 on big rungs when I did it. I don't think I cut loose on the whole thing.
Thin fingers, reasonable endurance and being good at wide shouldery moves and high feet made it feel quite steady when I had only done 2 at the grade before.
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Decided to try this out. Always enjoy reading it and might make be a better climber!
Mtg 8b+, 8A+
Ltg 8c, 8B
Any in mind Jim?
Keeping my card close to my chest :tease:
Wrote these a while back, maybe need revising. Routes are very long term as sacked them off while I'm time short.
Boulders not picked a specific project yet. Something crimpy obviously. Any suggestions?
I'd have thought Pump up the Powerband or Tsunami - Kudos would be up your street?
If I was in a position to be cashing 8B cheques I'd be looking at Voyager.
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National Trust guiys were dismantelling aand sawing up the ladders so that made for an unpeaceful day.
Didn't know they were changing the ladder. Shame it disrupted your day but good to read on the NT website that the new design will keep climbers in mind.
How was the Stone conditions wise, any seepage/drips?
You would have thought they’d do it midweek rather than a bluebird Saturday. Pretty much all dry.
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I'd have thought Pump up the Powerband or Tsunami - Kudos would be up your street?
If I was in a position to be cashing 8B cheques I'd be looking at Voyager.
Tsunami-Kudos is 8A.
Ones which spring to mind would be Total Addiction (Roche, but its a link), something at Griffs (various options, but lots involve linkups). PuTPowerband would be good if you find PUTP easy.. but not if you don't.. Doyle's Pill Box travs are crimpy but obvs a bit further away... If you want proper straight-ups it's a lot harder to come up with good ideas than for links!
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also surprised coops! would have thought you'd cruise them both with all the campussing youre doing!
I've experienced similar. I found it fairly steady and I'm terrible at campusing but my friend who can do 1-5-8 found it very hard. I wonder if it's less to do with campus ability and more about accuracy when getting fingers into those cracks.
Campus ability isn't necessary for Jerry's, I couldn't do 1-4-6 on big rungs when I did it. I don't think I cut loose on the whole thing.
Thin fingers, reasonable endurance and being good at wide shouldery moves and high feet made it feel quite steady when I had only done 2 at the grade before.
I think it's lock-off strength that is required, that gives you enough time to shove your fingers into the crack. That's where I was falling anyway. Along with excuses of lurgy, being fat and all the usuals... :-[
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also surprised coops! would have thought you'd cruise them both with all the campussing youre doing!
I've experienced similar. I found it fairly steady and I'm terrible at campusing but my friend who can do 1-5-8 found it very hard. I wonder if it's less to do with campus ability and more about accuracy when getting fingers into those cracks.
Campus ability isn't necessary for Jerry's, I couldn't do 1-4-6 on big rungs when I did it. I don't think I cut loose on the whole thing.
Thin fingers, reasonable endurance and being good at wide shouldery moves and high feet made it feel quite steady when I had only done 2 at the grade before.
I think it's lock-off strength that is required, that gives you enough time to shove your fingers into the crack. That's where I was falling anyway. Along with excuses of lurgy, being fat and all the usuals... :-[
Although I agree there is tendancy to reduce things to one cause when climbing is more complex than that. I can't hold a lock-off and I've climbed it, presumably I just got my fingers in the crack quicker than I fell off. There are multiple ways that you could improve your ability to get your fingers into the crack. Improving lock off might be one, becoming a ninja at latching pockets/slots is another, as sdm pointed out you don't need to campus to climb this problem, if you were a footwork guru you wouldn't need so much lock-off. Training one of the causes may get you success. However, identifying all possible causes of your difficulties and training them all will make you a better climber.
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I'd have thought Pump up the Powerband or Tsunami - Kudos would be up your street?
If I was in a position to be cashing 8B cheques I'd be looking at Voyager.
Tsunami-Kudos is 8A.
Ones which spring to mind would be Total Addiction (Roche, but its a link), something at Griffs (various options, but lots involve linkups). PuTPowerband would be good if you find PUTP easy.. but not if you don't.. Doyle's Pill Box travs are crimpy but obvs a bit further away... If you want proper straight-ups it's a lot harder to come up with good ideas than for links!
If damp linkups are all I've got to go at then I'm taking up cycling.
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You're f*cked then
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Right on. Link-ups, especially to access a new grade, are shit.
8B? High Fidelity, Rhythm, Cypher.
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Let me know if you think of anything decent highrepute.
I have also been trying to think of some good, non-traverse, 8A+'s to get psyched for. For crimpy all I've got are Fat Lady at The Bowderstone, Primitive Notion at Kilnsey, and Vanilla Sky at Anstons.
Unfortunately for me, the first is a bit far, the second has nothing decent for the GF, and the third looks a bit rubbish :boohoo:
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Then don't get psyched for 8A+ ;)
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Then don't get psyched for 8A+ ;)
It originally read "to get stuck into", don't know why I decided to change it.
edit: highrepute, if you're peak based I thought it was common practice to just skip 8A+ and do Keen Roof ;)
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Cherry Falls or Anchor Management maybe...
Ooo a list...
http://peakbouldering.info/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&min_grade=125&max_grade=125&min_stars=0&area=-1&rock_type=-1&crag=-1&attributes=all&commit=Go
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Brownian Motion, Twelve Bore, X-Calibre?
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Sean's Roof or (apart from being not crimpy and not straight up) Inertia Reel Traverse
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I don't know how Sean's isn't a straight-up (i.e. not a link), though obviously it's steep so not "straight up" in the most literal sense of the word. It's also 8A with a knee (not sure whether highrepute would or wouldn't be tall enough for the knee), but totally ace.
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Patina Turner at Earl? Fluid Dynamics at Chevin. They don't get much crimpier than Tom Peckitt test pieces! Banana Republic as well. Have you done Zoo York?
I'd like to question why you'd get psyched for a particular grade though.... I see this all the time and it's certainly something that used to play a significant part in my own approach. However, I've come to the view that because grades are such ethereal things, open to interpretation and bias amongst all sorts of other human traits, it just doesn't seem sensible to peg one's aspirations to them. There will almost always be someone who comes along to offer the dreaded downgrade after all :o
Coincidentally (or not?!), my biggest breakthroughs have also come by focusing more on lines and movement that I find inspiring. Or problems that I just get psyched for and can't explain why! How many of the classic straight up 8As have you done? Or 7C+s for that matter?! 7C+ is, I think, a really hard grade in the UK generally speaking.
I wouldn't so readily dismiss link ups either; if they offer a challenge or movement that you enjoy, and crucially you can get to them easily, then why not?!
You could try things that you just find hard as well, regardless of grade. For example, I'm terrible at slabs and technical walls so am trying to spend more time on that style, even though it means dropping at least three grades from what I've previously projected! Don't let other people's cynicism (or your own) keep you from trying things you enjoy or which will help you improve as a climber.
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I'd like to question why you'd get psyched for a particular grade though... I've come to the view that because grades are such ethereal things, open to interpretation and bias amongst all sorts of other human traits, it just doesn't seem sensible to peg one's aspirations to them.
We haven't all reached your level of enlightenment yet sensei. ;)
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:agree: :agree: :agree:
Right on, line-loving brother. Riiiight on.
Except the bit about Patina Turner. Tom has done some spectacular problems in Yorkshire, he's also done some spectacularly shit ones. From the comfort of my 7th grade punterdom, I can say with complete conviction that Patina Turner is the latter. It's more like a museum piece that serves to showcase the limits of the human obsession with the minging crimp.
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I don't know how Sean's isn't a straight-up (i.e. not a link), though obviously it's steep so not "straight up" in the most literal sense of the word. It's also 8A with a knee (not sure whether highrepute would or wouldn't be tall enough for the knee), but totally ace.
I meant IRT isn't straight up or crimpy. I'm not in any way qualified to suggest anything really not being nowhere near good enough for 8A+ and knowing little about highrepute's climbing but Sean's seemed to qualify as an independent, non eliminate problem. And IRT looks a great feature at the right grade but clearly fails on the straight up crieria
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Wed Managed new PB of 5 pull ups on BM45s, well past my previous PB of 1!
Day must of been really sticky cos also made progress on 55deg woody on couple of my project.
Sat, day 3 on my MTG out doors project, managed all moves but powering out.
Sun, walked round wet rock at Brimham, some dry stuff but mainly things iv done. Tried The Fonze, couldnt do a single move but skin was really cold by this point, maybe new LTG.
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We haven't all reached your level of enlightenment yet sensei. ;)
Haha don't get me wrong I've been really bad for focusing on grades in the past. I remember hunting down 7As in Font like my life depended on it.
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I meant IRT isn't straight up or crimpy.
Ah got ya, my poor reading!
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...
is this addressed to highrepute or me?
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I think patina turner might massively harder for anyone shorter than tom, regardless of quality. Cherry falls is also much harder for those under 5'9".
Rhythm is the most obvious candidate to me.
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Patina Turner at Earl? Fluid Dynamics at Chevin. They don't get much crimpier than Tom Peckitt test pieces! Banana Republic as well. Have you done Zoo York?
I'd like to question why you'd get psyched for a particular grade though.... I see this all the time and it's certainly something that used to play a significant part in my own approach. However, I've come to the view that because grades are such ethereal things, open to interpretation and bias amongst all sorts of other human traits, it just doesn't seem sensible to peg one's aspirations to them. There will almost always be someone who comes along to offer the dreaded downgrade after all :o
Coincidentally (or not?!), my biggest breakthroughs have also come by focusing more on lines and movement that I find inspiring. Or problems that I just get psyched for and can't explain why! How many of the classic straight up 8As have you done? Or 7C+s for that matter?! 7C+ is, I think, a really hard grade in the UK generally speaking.
I wouldn't so readily dismiss link ups either; if they offer a challenge or movement that you enjoy, and crucially you can get to them easily, then why not?!
You could try things that you just find hard as well, regardless of grade. For example, I'm terrible at slabs and technical walls so am trying to spend more time on that style, even though it means dropping at least three grades from what I've previously projected! Don't let other people's cynicism (or your own) keep you from trying things you enjoy or which will help you improve as a climber.
The state you describe is merely a lowly rung on the ladder to enlightenment, young one. Remember Sharma rejected grades once but he uses them again now. Once your ego has let the grade go as a value indicator of one's self you can return to grades merely as a means to assign difficultly to climbs. And as difficulty is what I persue in climbing, grades are the measure I use.
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...
is this addressed to highrepute or me?
Well, both of you I suppose. More of a general self righteous statement though.
The state you describe is merely a lowly rung on the ladder to enlightenment, young one. Remember Sharma rejected grades once but he uses them again now. Once your ego has let the grade go as a value indicator of one's self you can return to grades merely as a means to assign difficultly to climbs. And as difficulty is what I persue in climbing, grades are the measure I use.
Haha, fair enough. We'll see.
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I'd like to question why you'd get psyched for a particular grade though.... I see this all the time and it's certainly something that used to play a significant part in my own approach. However, I've come to the view that because grades are such ethereal things, open to interpretation and bias amongst all sorts of other human traits, it just doesn't seem sensible to peg one's aspirations to them.
That's pretty much exactly what I wrote on a previous page and then deleted. Having a grade without a project/line in mind is bewildering.
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That's pretty much exactly what I wrote on a previous page and then deleted. Having a grade without a project/line in mind is bewildering.
You are easily confused then.
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That's pretty much exactly what I wrote on a previous page and then deleted. Having a grade without a project/line in mind is bewildering.
You are easily confused then.
Does this mean you wouldn’t be bothering with Das Oak if it were 8a+?
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That's pretty much exactly what I wrote on a previous page and then deleted. Having a grade without a project/line in mind is bewildering.
Well you have to start somewhere.
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M- FA, worked until 10pm. Fucking deadlines
T - deadline met by 11, so celebratory lunchtime run. Usual 6.5 k trails, love that loop.
W - wall session. Actually climbed fairly well.
T - Thrashed myself with free weights at home, tough session.
F - 5.5k in woods. great to be out. Picked some more lichen off a boulder i found, could soon be a go-er.
S - DOMs. Ran 2 k with Kyle on bike
S - walk. Started fingerboard session in evening, but bicep feels tweaky, so cut it short.
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Back on topic.
What about 8 Ball? Does feature traversing and might not be as crimpy as you like but easy access, in nick dry and workable fairly frequently and the bonus of getting Moon, Moffatt and Al Williams ticks in a oner
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Does this mean you wouldn’t be bothering with Das Oak if it were 8a+?
Not everything I say is Oak related.
It would be legitimate, for example, to say I’ve climbed several 7C’s and fancy a 7C+. Any recommendations?
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James
Maybe an 8B in magic wood would suit you? Riverbed / Riders of the Storm? Nice and workable/ soft touch. Plenty of specialised training and a few trips to do it?
Close to home - The Ace? You could get on Fat Lip, seems a popular 8B.
In Wales Isles of Wonder (and Madame Allure) look class and could keep you psyched.
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I've been doing regular movement recently - probably worth having a go on here
M- conventional deadlifting - a few sets of bodyweight lifts, experimenting with different amounts of leg bend, trying to find what feels most like snowboarding - a bit of cardio - dumbell complexes
Tu - Burbage South Boulders. Plenty of easy stuff. managed a to get a video of Puck crouch start, which I think is an underated quality problem. Got the start of The Sheep done, but got too scared to finish it (looking into the sun etc).
W - Beavers - 8B looking after other peoples kids (training my uniformed paramilitary group for the post-Brexit apocalypse)
Th - am Burbage North. Dead Tree traverses, Remergence and Tiny Slab action between school run and work
F - that tanqueray sevilla gin that Tesco have on offer - probably the only gin that I like more than my wife does
Sa - Apparent North for the last bit of daylight - got carried away with the friction - numerous trips across the lower traverse to R of Hampers using slopey rail in fun ways plus several footless versions of the hang bit of Hampers - pointless, but fun and easy due to friction
Su - Awesome walls auto belays while lad was at a party at SUFC academy - proper easy plodding due to toes, fingers and elbows hurting
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Shark, maybe you should be replying to Bradder's more detailed and eloquent post rather than mine??
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Welcome to the club James and lagers!
Been a bit slack over the last week - 1 (v enjoyable) hour at trackside, two sessions at the wall, ran to work twice and did kettlebells once. No trx and haven’t stuck those micros up in the garage like I promised. This week hasn’t been amazing this far either but I’m sure I’ll find the groove again soon.
Stay powerful everyone.
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the third looks a bit rubbish :boohoo:
Woody’s is lovely place to hang out and VS is cool :shrug:
Although I admit to having a slightly perverse idea of cool.. it’s a bit shit if you don’t have a good heel
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I'd like to question why you'd get psyched for a particular grade though.... I see this all the time and it's certainly something that used to play a significant part in my own approach. However, I've come to the view that because grades are such ethereal things, open to interpretation and bias amongst all sorts of other human traits, it just doesn't seem sensible to peg one's aspirations to them.
That's pretty much exactly what I wrote on a previous page and then deleted. Having a grade without a project/line in mind is bewildering.
I have plenty of lines in mind but they all have their grade in common so I wrote that down.
Anyway why am I getting flack. The world's best climbers are always on about grades...9c, 9a+ onsight, all the 8s in a day. It's an essential part of climbing.
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James
Maybe an 8B in magic wood would suit you? Riverbed / Riders of the Storm? Nice and workable/ soft touch. Plenty of specialised training and a few trips to do it?
Close to home - The Ace? You could get on Fat Lip, seems a popular 8B.
In Wales Isles of Wonder (and Madame Allure) look class and could keep you psyched.
I didn't like Magic Wood when I went. If we're talking about "lines" then I thought magic wood was shockingly short of them, unless crawling into the back of a cave then shuffling out counts as a line! But I have few things in mind in font to try.
The others you mention be good to try.Back on topic.
What about 8 Ball? Does feature traversing and might not be as crimpy as you like but easy access, in nick dry and workable fairly frequently and the bonus of getting Moon, Moffatt and Al Williams ticks in a oner
Good idea. Worth checking out for sure.
the third looks a bit rubbish :boohoo:
Woody’s is lovely place to hang out and VS is cool :shrug:
Although I admit to having a slightly perverse idea of cool.. it’s a bit shit if you don’t have a good heel
Not sure about VS but the eastern stuff can work well for me as I work out that way.
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If we're talking about "lines" then I thought magic wood was shockingly short of them, unless crawling into the back of a cave then shuffling out counts as a line!
Unfortunately, Ben won't be able to reply to this comment as he fainted upon reading it.
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Anyway why am I getting flack. The world's best climbers are always on about grades...9c, 9a+ onsight, all the 8s in a day. It's an essential part of climbing.
Didn't mean to give you or anyone else any flack, sorry if it came across that way. Just trying to give a different perspective.
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People should get psyched for whatever they're psyched for... grades, history, movement, lines, difficulty, niceness of holds, doing it because your mates can't, doing it because your mates all can... if it makes you psyched it's all good.
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Anyway why am I getting flack. The world's best climbers are always on about grades...9c, 9a+ onsight, all the 8s in a day. It's an essential part of climbing.
Didn't mean to give you or anyone else any flack, sorry if it came across that way. Just trying to give a different perspective.
No offense caused at all. Enjoying the discussion. Almost all my posts contain an element of satire - for example...
People should get psyched for whatever they're psyched for... grades, history, movement, lines, difficulty, niceness of holds, doing it because your mates can't, doing it because your mates all can... if it makes you psyched it's all good.
If I'm really being honest my short, medium and long term goal is to burn off as many people as possible in what ever way possible. There's no better feeling ;D
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word
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Psyche is one thing, benchmarks are another.
Lines are one thing, grades are another.
Without grades we would just argue over who climbs more gracefully or which line is the most beautiful. It would be exactly like athletics without times or distances or kilos.
In terms of training, it's normal to refer to grades. Like a sprinter wanting to go under 10" in the 100 meters. He won't train to run in a better way. He'll train to be faster. Same for climbing.
Lines and grades are different parts of the equation and not always they go hand in hand.
Not every hard line can be beautiful and not every beautiful line can be hard.
Unless they are on my board.
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:bow:
Depends on whether you see climbing as an art or a science. I'm a scientist, so I need exact quantification in my climbing. That way, I know what error margins there are when I declare myself to be weak, and know that it would stand up to peer review.
A friend of mine was once told there are two types of climbers: English climbers and French climbers. French climbers are all about the line, beauty, kinaesthetic, vertical catwalking, even if the climbing is a bit shit. English climbers, however, are the opposite. You could start sitting in a pile of dogshit, doing the most perfect, incredible moves, whilst the M6 rushes past the back of your head and chavs throw bottles at you as you top out at head-height. It's all about the movement, hard, brutal, linking moves without lines. I definitely identify as an English climber, whereas he identifies as French.
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eh... that doesn't resemble any actual French climbers that I know...
The idea of sport climbing is to treat climbing as a sport — so continual improvements is inherently a goal. On local crags you don't need to know the grade to understand if a route or boulder would be more difficult than what you've done before in similar style. On non-local crags grades are useful, at least if they are reasonably correct.
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A friend of mine was once told there are two types of climbers: English climbers and French climbers. French climbers are all about the line, beauty, kinaesthetic, vertical catwalking, even if the climbing is a bit shit. English climbers, however, are the opposite. You could start sitting in a pile of dogshit, doing the most perfect, incredible moves, whilst the M6 rushes past the back of your head and chavs throw bottles at you as you top out at head-height. It's all about the movement, hard, brutal, linking moves without lines. I definitely identify as an English climber, whereas he identifies as French.
Cool story bro. But numerical fixation isn't essentially linked to either of those. Both of those perspectives can be about beauty and inspiration - and many different perspectives in between.
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No, I just thought it was an amusing aside on a similar topic.
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No, I just thought it was an amusing aside on a similar topic.
In a similar vein it's funny that grades are largely irrelevant in competition climbing.
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People should get psyched for whatever they're psyched for... grades, history, movement, lines, difficulty, niceness of holds, doing it because your mates can't, doing it because your mates all can... if it makes you psyched it's all good.
Not so sure. At least two, probably three, on that list are worth growing out of asap imo.
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No, I just thought it was an amusing aside on a similar topic.
In a similar vein it's funny that grades are largely irrelevant in competition climbing.
That's because competition climbing, at least in bouldering, doesn't resemble real climbing anymore.
And also because grades would be useless. You have all the competitors there. The one who climbs more problems wins.
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It’s the mix of ‘trying hard’ vs grades and ego / expectations (self - others perception). It’s hard to drop that stuff. These days I try to keep it to ‘trying hard’ and take what comes of that. Not always possible when being burnt off by your mates or at a busy crag where there’s lots of dick swinging. Aiming for a particular grade does seem a bit misery inducing tho
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In a similar vein it's funny that grades are largely irrelevant in competition climbing.
Irrelevant? Not sure that's the word I'd use but I get your drift. I did hear the international route setters are banned from mentioning grades when interviewed, lest they upset anyone's expectations. It's no surprise to me that it's easier to split a field with a hard to read 7b+ than a basic 8a+. Plus the competitors are largely stronger than the setters so they can't really take the arms race approach.
That's because competition climbing, at least in bouldering, doesn't resemble real climbing anymore.
What's real climbing Nibs? The fifty degree board? I think the modern comp style is great, it's much closer to the sort of stuff I've always done at the crag, requiring a broad skill set not just strength. Indoor style was traditionally entwined with training which always limited its scope.
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First Brexit, then Trump, now Johnny Brown in defense of modern indoor bouldering; what the fuck is going on...
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END TIMES.
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First Brexit, then Trump, now Johnny Brown in defense of modern indoor bouldering; what the fuck is going on...
This glitch in the system is PROOF that we are all but minor programs in a matrix like existence.
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That's because competition climbing, at least in bouldering, doesn't resemble real climbing anymore.
What's real climbing Nibs? The fifty degree board?
I think real climbing is real climbing, like you know, real rock, real holds, real sunlight, real wind.
I'm sure you know plenty of crags whose problems involve no hands runs on big bulges, or upside down feet jams, or double jumps to pyramid volumes, but unfortunately this is not my experience.
Let's be honest here Adam, you just took a chance to slag strength training for the Nth time, because you don't like it. That's fair but don't tell me that present indoor competition bouldering is close to outdoor climbing.
The kind of setting they do now is due to exactly the opposite reason: current athletes are so strong that a strength based comp would be ten finalists even on the top spot with 6 tops on flash.
And I didn't even say that I don't like current comps, I actually think they're fun to watch.
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Fair response Nibs. I do agree that some modern setting is at one particular extreme end of real climbing. A 4th generation coordination jump is just as distant from the realness of Careless Torque or Angel's Share as a ladder of minging crimps straight out of the School. And generally from a spectator's point of view the best problems are somewhere in between (apart from when some cunning fucker manages to completely bypass the dynos ;)), where there's elements of pure beastliness and creative technique being tested.
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Cheers Fiend.
I think that, leaving aside what I said before, one of the main problems about the "old school" setting was that the spectators could never tell what sort of holds the climbers were using.
For sure the big volumes thing gives a better idea now.
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This is why I get annoyed when we've still got folk bleating on about Pinky Perky on the significant repeats thread?
I made the same point about strength Nibs, which is one reason why I was never interested in it. It quickly boils down to bodyweight, not much space for creativity there. Yes we have all those moves on gritstone, double foot jams have been involved on most of the world's hardest offwidths since the seventies. You've not seen best forgotten art? Or Silence for that matter? Johnny was doing all this stuff in the nineties inside and out while the strong crew laughed at him. No doubt we'll be seeing much more dynamic, inventive stuff outdoors in the future. Glad we are all enjoying it, look forward to seeing more.
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Parkour bollocks. All of the hardest problems in the world are about strength. Show me one that’s about triple Dyno show pony shit.
Lappnor is about as basic as it gets. Not even a heel.
I get why it’s beingused in comps as it’s entertaining but it’s never going to overtake the cutting edge.
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I was reminded of this argument when, on the recent Enormocast ep, Adam Ondra started dreaming aloud about finding a futuristic route that would require a double dyno into hand jams ...