UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Muenchener on July 26, 2011, 08:20:04 pm
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I'm having a spell of work & family stuff interfering with getting to the wall at the moment, and since I can't rule out the possibility of this happening again, I'm thinking it might be worth getting a fingerboard to use at home. Beastmaker seems to be the one to go for, but which one? I'm currently bouldering around 6B. Would a 2000 have too few things on it that I can actually use? But otoh I don't see that I have obvious need for the jugs on the 1000 - if I want to do pullups, front lever progressions & stuff I already have rings.
I can hang the 30 slopers on a 2000 for a few seconds, but that's about the limit of my market research so far.
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get the 2000 model. :goodidea:
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I would say go for the 1000 yes the jugs become a bit useless if you have rings but the rest of the holds are much better suited and will still go to around 7C and beyond. Also the only holds you can really simulate on the 2000 with a 1000 are the monos, the slopey 2 finger pockets and the 45's all of which are pretty nails anyway
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I'd say the 1000, seems like it has a good variety of holds and you can build up strength for future progressions.
on the other hand, if it's going to be your main training tool for longer, or if you fancy going through pain and suffering a bit more, get the 2000, and work your way up holds you didn't imagine you could hang.
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1000. I have both, climb about 7a and a little upwards and ifs more than good enough for my needs. I prefer the big jugs was they are easier to warm up on than the 2000..
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2000 plus a chinup bar. Sorted ;)
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I'm not suggesting one model over the other as I've never seen a 1000 in the flesh but I have and use the 2000. My girlfriend boulders 6a/6b and uses it regularly without any issues..
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just bought the 2k yesterday
looks fierce but over the 1k, it feels like i can improve better with the 2k
showed it off to mrs namnok and she wasnt impressed with where i wanted it (knocked thru partition between living and dining room, so i can watch the tv whilst just hanging around)
she asked if i could at least white wash it( :o) to blend it in
i then dropped the beast in shock and it bounced off my head onto hers then off her shoulder, onto the table missing my phone by mere cms then crashing to the floor
she now has a bruise on her shoulder, but more importantly the beastmaker's fine :2thumbsup:
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I have a 2000, haven't used the 1000 but would buy the 2k again. The harder holds give you something to aim for and its surprising what you can hang with a bit of training. To warm up you can use the 25 slopers or the large in-cut holds, a pull-up bar or use assistance from a foot on a chair.
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I think the 1000 will be more than adequate for your needs.
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Thanks guys.
Looks like no clear consensus either way (counting Nibs as a vote for both - some kind of Italian PR voting system).
1000: surely more than adequate for my current needs.
2000: would be more of an ego/ambition stroker.
One of my local walls has both, so I should probably go and do a couple of sessions & then decide.
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One of my local walls has both, so I should probably go and do a couple of sessions & then decide.
Makes sense, give em both a test drive and then decide.
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Ensure you mount correctly... :/
(http://desmond.yfrog.com/Himg740/scaled.php?tn=0&server=740&filename=tkwii.jpg&xsize=640&ysize=640)
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I've been using a 1000 as my main fingerboard for some time and it's been easily adequate for training into the low-mid font 7s. Even once you reach that stage there's more than enough you can do on it to get stronger, I certainly have many goals on it that I still feel a long way off (ie. hanging any hold on it that isn't massive one-handed). As Dexter said, the main holds the 2000 has that the 1000 doesn't are two-finger slopey pockets and 45 degree slopers, both of which I would not have considered going anywhere near when I was at a 6b level (they still both feel near-impossible even now). Also, if you manage to get any finger injuries on it the jugs on the 1000 are a godsend and way more comfortable (imo) than a bar to do pullups on.
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Thanks guys.
Looks like no clear consensus either way (counting Nibs as a vote for both - some kind of Italian PR voting system).
1000: surely more than adequate for my current needs.
2000: would be more of an ego/ambition stroker.
One of my local walls has both, so I should probably go and do a couple of sessions & then decide.
both? if you have room then you can become a mega beast. You can then mount one above another and campus between them
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I've been using a 1000 as my main fingerboard for some time and it's been easily adequate for training into the low-mid font 7s. Even once you reach that stage there's more than enough you can do on it to get stronger, I certainly have many goals on it that I still feel a long way off (ie. hanging any hold on it that isn't massive one-handed). As Dexter said, the main holds the 2000 has that the 1000 doesn't are two-finger slopey pockets and 45 degree slopers, both of which I would not have considered going anywhere near when I was at a 6b level (they still both feel near-impossible even now). Also, if you manage to get any finger injuries on it the jugs on the 1000 are a godsend and way more comfortable (imo) than a bar to do pullups on.
What Joe said...
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I haven't tried the 1000, so i can't say anything about it, but i recently got the 2000 and ive been using it for the past month, i boulder at around 6a and there is plenty for me to use on it, staying away from the monos though and i have no chance of using the steepest slopers either. But ive noticed some decent progression and so it feels good to have harder stuff left on it to keep it challenging. So i would go with the 2000, but thats just me.
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Ensure you mount correctly... :/
(http://desmond.yfrog.com/Himg740/scaled.php?tn=0&server=740&filename=tkwii.jpg&xsize=640&ysize=640)
Looks like your curtains need ironing too Tom. Tsk.
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Ensure you mount correctly... :/
(http://desmond.yfrog.com/Himg740/scaled.php?tn=0&server=740&filename=tkwii.jpg&xsize=640&ysize=640)
Oh yes. I've served my diy time in older houses. "Would madam like the shelf horizontal, parallel to the ceiling, or parallel to the floor?"
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Ensure you mount correctly... :/
Looks like your curtains need ironing too Tom. Tsk.
Humph.. ;) it was a miracle it stayed up for 3 months screwed into the congealed soot that holds my house together..
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Did a test drive at the wall today, and discovered that the 1000 is more than enough for my needs for the foreseeable future. There are about three holds on the 2000 on which I could make a plausible attempt at repeaters. Even on the 1000 it would be some time before I would be venturing far off the middle rung.
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welcome to your future!
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Ensure you mount correctly... :/
Looks like your curtains need ironing too Tom. Tsk.
Humph.. ;) it was a miracle it stayed up for 3 months screwed into the congealed soot that holds my house together..
(http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/homeownership.png)
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welcome to your future!
I finally bought one, rigged a hanging arrangement for it, and started the beginners' repeater programme for a test drive. And quickly discovered a problem.
On well broken-in beastmakers at walls, I can hang the 35 sloper well in control. I haven't tried rigorously timed repeaters, but I can do multiple several-second hangs. On my new shiny one, I can't hang the sloper at all :o
What do I do now? Current temperatures preclude sweating. I've tried lightly moistening with spit & water: no joy. Not foolish enough to try chalk. Not keen on coarse sandpaper as I don't want to wear my new toy away / inadvertently change the angle. But what then? If I can't even begin to hang it how can I break it in?
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Stick at it and keep the faith! It will all come together as soon as they get a bit chalked. Maybe you can try to hang them with some nestling on the 20 slopers' edge or by pinching with the thumb underneath.
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put a tiny fillet behind it at the bottom, say a nail-file or some such.
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welcome to your future!
What do I do now? Current temperatures preclude sweating. I've tried lightly moistening with spit & water: no joy. Not foolish enough to try chalk. Not keen on coarse sandpaper as I don't want to wear my new toy away / inadvertently change the angle. But what then? If I can't even begin to hang it how can I break it in?
why wouldnt you use chalk? i always find it grips better with a bit of chalk ground in. when brand new the damp fingers thing doesnt seem to work as well as when its been used for a few weeks with chalk. they are all different though, mine at home is far harder than the one down the wall but its just going to make me stronger if i can do hangs on mine.
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welcome to your future!
What do I do now? Current temperatures preclude sweating. I've tried lightly moistening with spit & water: no joy. Not foolish enough to try chalk. Not keen on coarse sandpaper as I don't want to wear my new toy away / inadvertently change the angle. But what then? If I can't even begin to hang it how can I break it in?
why wouldnt you use chalk? i always find it grips better with a bit of chalk ground in. when brand new the damp fingers thing doesnt seem to work as well as when its been used for a few weeks with chalk. they are all different though, mine at home is far harder than the one down the wall but its just going to make me stronger if i can do hangs on mine.
Thats easy for you to say
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why wouldnt you use chalk? i always find it grips better with a bit of chalk ground in. when brand new the damp fingers thing doesnt seem to work as well as when its been used for a few weeks with chalk. they are all different though, mine at home is far harder than the one down the wall but its just going to make me stronger if i can do hangs on mine.
Ah, thanks. That's the part I wasn't aware of: I've never used a new one before. On well-used ones I've both read here, and experienced, that licked/sweaty/moistened fingers work better than chalked fingers. But will try chalk for now before I try changing the angle.
(It's probably also not helping that my only available mounting arrangement, on a ceiling beam, is quite highball. Might get my bouldering mat out of the shed for the next session)
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I am really confused!!!!! What is all this not using chalk thing all about??? Damp fingers sounds odd to me, but have been away a while. :unsure:
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welcome to your future!
I finally bought one, rigged a hanging arrangement for it, and started the beginners' repeater programme for a test drive. And quickly discovered a problem.
On well broken-in beastmakers at walls, I can hang the 35 sloper well in control. I haven't tried rigorously timed repeaters, but I can do multiple several-second hangs. On my new shiny one, I can't hang the sloper at all :o
What do I do now?
So long as you find it sufficiently difficult to hold the slopers by nestling and/or pinching the bottom of the hold then you will get a good workout. it doesn't really matter what holds you use so long as you find it difficult and as others have said, it will break in eventually.
I can really easily play around on the 45s at walls, but find the 35s on mine slightly harder and have never ever held the 45s without nestling and pinching, but that will not stop me from training.
:weakbench:
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A light roughing with sandpaper makes a lot of difference. If you do it by hand you are only skimming off microns, not removing inches off the whole board. Unless you are beastly strong, then you wouldn't be needing it anyway.
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Hi all, new to the board. On the subject of the beastmaker could people clarify encores for me. I understand the different lock positions ect but are the lock positions held like repeaters (7on 3off) or is the exercise done as an extended pull up, if so how long is each lock held to complete the exercise. any tips greatly received
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From what I gather its 6 or 7 pull ups intermittently locking and holding the lock, like a repeater, for 6 or 7 seconds: pull up to full lock, hold for 7 seconds, lower to the bottom then pull up to a 90 degree lock, hold for 7 seconds, then complete the pull up, lower down to the bottom, pull up to 20 degree lock... etc etc. I think.
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Not as far as understood it. You take 3 secs rest between each lock,so you put your feet down.Other wise your just doing French pull ups.
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Get it straight from the
horses beasts mouth (http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training)
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Whilst we're on the subject of beastmakers (I have a 1000) does anyone have a cunning scheme for fixing one reliably to a screw out pull up bar?
I was going to try mounting the beastmaker on a slightly oversized piece of ply, and obtaining some scaffolding clamps (or similar) from B&Q / Wickes / a builders' merchants; and clamping it to the bar, but fear that rotation may be an issue.
Any beta (very) gratefully accepted, as I am bored of rock rings, and feel pretty weak :weakbench: :whip:
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Like this toby...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=63288 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=63288)
Make sure the board it's mounted on is wider than the door way, then just loop cord over the pull up bar. It hangs a bit low, but you just bend your knees. I attach the cord at the bottom by just putting in a cut out notch, so it's easy to remove.
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thanks for the replies about encores, still seems theres a bit of variety in how people are completing each repetition. Can see the merits of both ways will probably try and incorporate both methods (resting / 1 full repetition). Couldn't see on the beastmaker website any mention of timings for the exercise
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Couldn't see on the beastmaker website any mention of timings for the exercise
Under the Repeaters section
Repeaters consist of hanging a grip type for 7 seconds then resting 3 seconds and then holding for another 7 seconds, this should be done for 6 to 7 reps so if you’re on a stopwatch and you start hanging at 3 seconds the finishing line is at 1 minute 10 seconds.