hmmm...
seriously, i think everybody should let go the first sets after paddling back on the peak after a surfed wave. and people should not paddle for everything that comes in, regardless of the chances to really get the wave.
too often these days, like in many many aspects of our lives (work, car, dresses, house, etc), people only care about QUANTITY. the biggest cars, houses, more expensive dresses, shoes, sunglasses, instead of the feelings behind all that goods. so its not how many waves you catch, but how you ride them, and even more how much fun you have riding them, regardless of technique.
its the loss of the dream like attitude, of feelings, of poetry, if you sit on the peak just thinking about catching one after another while clearly other surfers could have their share.
The 'unwritten' rules actually dictate that you don't paddle straight back to the peak but idle on the inside for a while until it's your 'turn' again
I forgot one minor detail... they were riding Bic's.. fuck 'em - you should have paddled over with a really mean expression and said 'Get the fuck out of the water you fucking cunts... my mate is about to torch your car... never come back here again'.
but maybe if we meet up for a surf, that includes you! 'falling quiver' you can 'findout' what these tricks are.
very good way to end the year.
clean.
offshore.
4 people out.
three hours session with no booties.
very good way to end the year.
clean.
offshore.
4 people out.
three hours session with no booties.
I've not made it to the coast yet but am heading over Yorkshire way on Friday as it looks good for the day & I have a new board to get wet..
now thats unfair chris altough technically im karma zero as you have plussed me and minussed me. my point was that you were asking for a bit more consideration in the water and then falling down comes out with that tripe. hardly tolerant. and what can i say - it was cheap and i live 2 1/2 hours from anything like a break.
what the fuck's a Bic???
i really missed this surfin thing in my youth and i doubt i'll ever be able to invest the time to learn now...
And razors, cutting it fine time... going to Russells weding in Barbados, ohh.
Plastic type 'short' longboard, pretty indestructible, reasonable easy to stand on, quite cheap, hence gets a bad reputation for being a punters board.
PS, my chicks been here 19 times, and the winter family are looking after us so should be well looked after...
very nice session yesterday, a couple of feet, super clean, and two hours in the water with no booties. (one finger turned very white, though). i have to say that the money i invested in the new board is some of the best spent money in my life. it turns and speeds, and makes me happy.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/132/376775688_7933217c81.jpg?v=0)Like your thinking there
There's a fine reef break just south of Torness nuke station, waters always warm..
Can't wait to sip that first cold Banks under a palm tree after a few waves at Soup Bowls on Monday evening.. :beer1:
SA, get your arse down west... see you soon
No, south coast reef madness,,, Is Thurso worth a visit
Aye 'tis looking pretty good.. not too big, looong period and perfect winds.
I was planning my trad comeback this weekend but now I'm not so sure :-\
Any beta on good summer venues (europe)
Any beta on good summer venues (europe)anywher below that big line that goes around the globe.
Did you get out on your big fish?
9.4 freedom
9.6 stuart hydrohull ***
9.4 stuart hydrohull***
I thought you bought an Al Merrick from Granite Reef when you were up here?
South West conditions update >............... going bouldering........ again!
it's supposed to be a nightmare to get wounds to heal in that environment. Also hope the waves are that good for you...
flatter than a kipper's cock
Dave - That's where I was yesterday.. felt like the last day of Summer. Good waves, People sunbathing, ice creams, sunshine, horrendous traffic on the way home.
I was there about 3:30-4ish,....Did you drive back on the a64 via malton?
The twinnie looks good....
got a really nice brand new (one session) 9.0 plank for sale, fins + bag,,,, 300.00
The twinnie looks good....
We did see a lot of boobs on the beach in Hoss, which was nice...so it wasnt flat at all!!!
:dance1:
Managed to pull my butt up a V8 sit start arete on the 'warm up' boulder, woo hoo!
five weeks in Norway...
Arkem? I never managed to figure out what went where on that arete.Yep! That's the one.. Bum Start, left hand on pinch right in crack thing with thumb over top of crystal, right foot on low edge under crack, left heel on low slopey edge around arete, pull on slap up with left to fat sloper, bring right foot up to little crystal foothold, kind of toe scum/clamp with left foot and move right hand up to small edge directly above the crack thingy, then i made a kind timing dependent slap up to the hold on the arete with my left hand, (left foot comes off right stays where it is) then finish by slap the top big fat sloper with your right hand!!!!! Proper job baey!
Costa Rica is the light at the end of this forth coming "very dark tunnel!"
She is fucking high maintenence, but a massive improvement on the last loon...;D I'm guessing she doesn't read this forum. Or you hope she doesn't.
when i hear people from more wave-blessed countries than italy say it's flat, i always ask myself: will it be really flat even for my standards?
will it be so flat that i wouldn't paddle out with my 9'4"?
If you chaps had december and jan off- where would you be surfing?
Yesterdays Observer Sport Monthly ran a lengthy and previously unpublished interview with Bunker Spreckels by CR Stecyk III from the 70's.
Yesterdays Observer Sport Monthly ran a lengthy and previously unpublished interview with Bunker Spreckels by CR Stecyk III from the 70's.
Anyone know if Observer ever put these things online? Alternatively, FD can you get it to me sometime?
Yo! been away,,,, just hit Bore, nr Stavanger, Norway,,, Very good, Very cold, Very hospitable,,, Head high and off shore,,, Sunday... Will comunicate details later, peace and love..
Random bloke vs my bird. Hmmm decisions decisions.Oy less of the 'random'. ;D
There was a nice picture of Mullaghmore in the Observer yesterday.
Nash - Nice little piccies and video... looks quite shallow on the inside at that spot.
Well Well Well, you wetsuit washers,,, tuning you from Troncones, Mexico, waves every day till 12.o, 3ft with 5ft sets, various point breaks around, did Rio Nexpa, waters bit dirty,,, going to "the Ranch" 2moro. Acapulco for the new year, then on to Puerto Escondido, then travelling up to Puero Vallarta, calling in anywhere and everywhere, have a good Xmas, and see you in the new one,,,
Did you get out Adam?
(http://www.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/articles/570_BillabongXXL_200811061310.jpg)
i want to start surfing :[
longboards suck at heavy beach breaks.
Finally a flexible work window coincides with some swell so I'm hitting a couple of secret spots in Yorkshire with a gobby ex-Renegade Master tomorrow and then some more in Northumberland on Thursday.
gobby ex-Renegade Master
Chris - I got Stealing the Wave for Christmas but haven't read it yet. Andy Martin has always been obsessed by Foo and Bradshaw and he's a pretty good writer so it could be worthwhile.
I'd pay money to see smurfing gidgets - oh - I mean surfing midgets.
GidgetNoooo!
You surfed w/a girl midget?
http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=46307
Didn't work so here is link.
thanks :great:
When you get the webpage up, do you then right click the image to do that. I am a computer retard-o.
East Coast this weekend was truly awesome. Low tide was unfavourably early but my mate and me had one of the points to ourselves for a few hours. 8-10 ft beasts rolling in :jaw:and a backdrop of snow covered fields made for a great mornings surf, if a little terrifying. The afternoon was a slightly more friendly 3-5ft at south bay.I knew it would be good, I was away.
Surfed El Faro today, in Nayrit (Saluilita).
5ft long rt hand point break, the first right hander of the trip.
been surfing The Ranch also with totall Legends, any one heard of Corky? me neither, the septics worship him.... also The Tank, all loggers...
tasty pics dangereux.. is that really east coast!? man im impressed. SA i have got myself a decent wettie. im not sure how my fingers and toes will react to ocean temps! ive benn used to boardies and sweating in the water.In training in norway ice climbing at the mo. Back in sheff for march... any surfers in sheff want a lift or company PM? I am badly missing the sea
tasty pics dangereux.. is that really east coast!? man im impressed. SA i have got myself a decent wettie. im not sure how my fingers and toes will react to ocean temps! ive benn used to boardies and sweating in the water.In training in norway ice climbing at the mo. Back in sheff for march... any surfers in sheff want a lift or company PM? I am badly missing the sea
Mate, you will need boots and gloves at this time of year, and a hood.
I just got some of these and they are so good. http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html (http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html)
tasty pics dangereux.. is that really east coast!? man im impressed. SA i have got myself a decent wettie. im not sure how my fingers and toes will react to ocean temps! ive benn used to boardies and sweating in the water.In training in norway ice climbing at the mo. Back in sheff for march... any surfers in sheff want a lift or company PM? I am badly missing the sea
Mate, you will need boots and gloves at this time of year, and a hood.
I just got some of these and they are so good. http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html (http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html)
Yorkshire.... a couple of weeks back. Check the surfer in the bottom left for scale.
(https://www.fastmail.fm/mail/?MLS=LN-*&Ust=71a60386!2ec741a8&UDm=3797&MSignal=MB-*)
Good huh?
we can't see that image :)
looking at the link it's inside your mailbox!
the swell window is so narrow that it is oftenweeksmonths between decent swells.
Just goes to show that we do get decent surf though eh?
What these pictures don't really show is just how fast, violent, noisy and overwhelming it can be when out in heavy conditions.I can imagine it's mental - the little white water kayaking i've done was an eye-opener to the violence of water.
Fuck me! Giant brown barrels - welcome to Yorkshire! That is a punter bottom left, right?If it is i hope he has mastered the duck dive! :o
Fuck me! Giant brown barrels - welcome to Yorkshire! That is a punter bottom left, right?Ha - looks like a giant wave of Bisto!
Like going clean aid climbing at Millstone :shrug:
HA HA HA Barrack. we'll call it quits then. Climb next week.? Actualy soloman islands do look pretty gnarly.. political unrest etc. Could be a bit of an adventure.
i'd pay alot of money just to hear a pipeline or mavericks or jaws bomb going off.
the moment the lip hits the water below must be worth hearing live.
I'd pay alto of money just to hear a pipeline or mavericks or jaws bomb going off.
the moment the lip hits the water below must be worth hearing live.
10 minutes from my house to Croyde (the finest beach break in the UK?!)
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg
Anyone read it? Any good?
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg
Anyone read it? Any good?
I picked it up the other day.. pretty good thus far... I can trade it with you when i have finished if your interested
anyone got any pearls of wisdom for my first Indo trip. Good hostels spots etc.
anyone got any pearls of wisdom for my first Indo trip. Good hostels spots etc.
Where are you going?
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg
Anyone read it? Any good?
I picked it up the other day.. pretty good thus far... I can trade it with you when i have finished if your interested
Sounds good. Got Eddie would go,.... Captain Zero, or Magic Carpet if you want a swap.
Check Pm
Off to Bali first. Catch up with a friend... then gland? maybe Nias. very loose plans. very excited tho. Not been surfing for couple o months tho, been landlocked studying/working.
Off to Bali first. Catch up with a friend... then gland? maybe Nias. very loose plans. very excited tho. Not been surfing for couple o months tho, been landlocked studying/working.
Nice to have such a flexible schedule! Oldfella from off here is now in Oz but was planning a G-Land trip sometime this Summer so he might have some info on where to stay. I've heard Nias and the Hikano's were quite damaged by the two Tsunami's and aren't what they used to be... maybe Laykey might be a better choice? I'm off on a 2 week boat trip to the Banyaks and Simulue a week on Wednesday so have been watching the charts and weather forecast with interest.
16th May? We're heading out on the 14th but we'll be a few hundred K's away in Northwest Sumatra on this boat http://www.banyakislands.com/ (http://www.banyakislands.com/) for a couple of weeks getting some uncrowded perfection. If you were hoping for an easy start you might be in for a shock judging by Surflines forecast from this morning. :-)
Extended Forecast Outlook:Note: all dates and times are local Indonesian time. Surfline offers this forecast on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings.
The South Indian Ocean is having another active fall season (only after a very strong summer storm track) and we are expecting the storm track to stay active. We had a small but fairly strong fetch in the SW Indian Ocean and this looks to send in some building head high plus SW groundswell for Thursday, the 8th, and then we will be expecting mostly chest to head high plus SW swell into Friday, May 9th. We had a solid storm system down under earlier in the week and we will see some building longer period SW groundswell for late Friday and this swell will peak into Saturday and stay strong into Sunday morning with head high plus to double overhead surf from the Mentawais to Bali and the premier SW facing reefs should see sets in the triple overhead range.
Further out, we will see a few more strong but smaller scale storm systems move through down under over the next several days and our next SW groundswell will build in on Monday for Java with more head high plus surf and getting stronger into the afternoon with sets running around the double overhead mark and this should stay strong into early Tuesday for Eastern Java/Bali. Another solid SW groundswell will most likely be in the water for Wednesday with some larger surf and then fading but still head high plus to overhead surf would settle in for Thursday, May 15th. The long range models are showing one more strong system down under and this would set up some more solid SW to SSW swell for around late Thursday/Friday, May 16th."
Ha ha you have provoked me into more pool sessions in preparation for the madness of indo. That website is rather neat! looks a top outfit.
then heading north to meet climber types, any knowlege of venues that may be worth a look, Woolacombe way???
A point break like Swamis would be a better option, if a little further,,,
Or Malibu...
So come on defend the noble art of longboarding because at the moment I feel like (WARNING rash generalisations coming up) loggers are the following.... dirty stinking snakers that hog waves by catching them way outside
fat mid life crisis types with all the gear and no idea
unable to change direction anytime this century
and finally drop in artists..
Will be treated with the contemp it deserves and ignored completely. It's summer in Devon, the kooks are out. Deal with it.
Riding a longboard made me surf better on my shortboard. Loads of shortboarders are far too static on their boards keeping their feet in the same place all the time. To surf well you need to move them up and down to trim the board. I didn't get this until I rode a longboard...
Riding a longboard is fun on small days.. as long as you don't hog all the waves.
Nose riding is fantastic.
Well it was a tedious hackneyed stereotype wasn't it.
WARNING rash generalisations coming up
The Warning doesnt make it ok?
What if I put a warning like: WARNING : BIG INSULT COMING UP
and then said; Granticus you're a cock, would that make it OK? (I don't think this of course, just an example).
Anyone on hear know of someone who could glass a fin back in and is based near Manchester?...
so we could do with someone who knows what they're doing having a go this time.
Anyone on hear know of someone who could glass a fin back in and is based near Manchester?...
Whereabouts are you? I'm in the High Peak just outside Chapel en-le Frith and could do it for you if you drove to my place with board etc.
Anyone on hear know of someone who could glass a fin back in and is based near Manchester?...
Whereabouts are you? I'm in the High Peak just outside Chapel en-le Frith and could do it for you if you drove to my place with board etc.
Wow, FD, that'd be cool. My missus lives in West Didsbury (as do I knd of at the weekends) and am out in the peak regularly so could drop it off. The fin was lost to the sea so once I've got my hands on a new one I'll be in touch if that's ok. I've pm'd you.
Cheers!
You won't be dropping it off. You'll be mending it yourself under my supervision so you know what to do when it happens again. :)
You always want the be a guru didn't you?
As it's the centre fin, I guess I'd have to drill into the stringer to fit FCS plugs? Is this cool? Will it shag the board?
On another point, anyone have an opinion on O'Shea boards? Quite liked the look of a fat boy flyer for a first shortboard that goes in mushy/small waves. Good idea? My board knowledge is pretty poor.
On another point, anyone have an opinion on O'Shea boards?
hmmm any of you chaps seen the channel islands flick flow? Cant say i am a massive fan, however i am trying to track down the song used for currens montage.. cant get the tune outta my head!!! incubus bloc party??
Nice, where were you in?
Last night, out of the blue it all turned into a session of dreams. Ahhhh. Love it when it happens like that, no expectations, and suddenly head high glass, sunny, warm water and 2 people out. A couple of hours of heaven...
To answer your question, sticking one of the side fins in won't do really as you need the foil on both sides to generate drive and you'll find the board pulling the foiled side if you use a side fin. If you are 'puntering' then I wouldn't bother going for a glass set of FCS fins but just buy a set plastic G5 or G3's.
To answer your question, sticking one of the side fins in won't do really as you need the foil on both sides to generate drive and you'll find the board pulling the foiled side if you use a side fin. If you are 'puntering' then I wouldn't bother going for a glass set of FCS fins but just buy a set plastic G5 or G3's.
Surely it depends on what level you surf at and what board you are riding.
So, anybody been out recently?Onshore South/ South Westerly gales = some of the more secret spots in N. Devon/ Somerset firing up. It felt like a proper winter swell yesterday. Lynmouth was all time, the spring tides made for some interesting exits from the water at high tide, the safest of which appeared to be paddling into the harbour and the most 'interesting' involved getting dumped onto the rocks by the shorebreak. We hit Lynmouth at low (avoiding the getting in problem) and a.n.other break on the push upto high (as it turned out the tide eventually got too high for this reef). However, before it crapped out, we scored some nice chunky barrels. Returned to Lynmouth to watch people attempting to get back in when it got dark. Can't remember a summer that when we have been able to surf these spots so regularly. Anywhere else experiencing unseasonal swells?
Anywhere else experiencing unseasonal swells?
Is this about to go badly wrong, has already gone badly wrong or is it in fact ok?
What's the significance of the thickness of the lip?Lip thickness is a sign of power in the wave, it has a lot to do with the wavelength of the swell and puts major water volume into the wave. A 10ft wave with a short wavelength has nowhere near as much water in it as a 2ft wave with a proper wavelength. That's why tsunamis are so nasty. There are loads of waves hitting coastlines every day that are way bigger than most tsunamis, but the tsumami lips are like 2km thick, that's a lot of water and power.
How much are we talking Chris? I daresay there are a few off-shore types I know who might be passing...
Mind you at 5''8 I reckon you can get away with something a little shorter than 7''10. As long as you have lots of volume you'll be fine. A minimal style board at around 7"4 will hold your size (assuming your not of prop forward build) just fine.
Do not be decieved, you are a 9.0 + JB...ok?.:-[ sorry what do you mean? :-[
oh sorry again i thought it was a reply to the vids.Do not be decieved, you are a 9.0 + JB...ok?.:-[ sorry what do you mean? :-[
Classic Towan 3ft, 2, 4 hour session's either side of high tide.
3rd day running.
know what stoked means...
Weh Hey! Back in ND after raiding Kernow. Scored Hayle rivermouth at dawn on Tues, shoulder high reeling punchy lefties and only 1 other in. Big swell SW wind, apparently at the same time Gwithian was overhead but blown out mushiness. Surfed small clean waves for the rest of the week at Gwithian and Perranporth. Happy days.
So it must have been you I met at Carn Brea on the Friday, I was falling off Pond Wall endlessly at the time...
Parabolic... balsa rails instead of a stringer...
Sounds mint, pics?. And congratulations!
QuoteParabolic... balsa rails instead of a stringer...
Yes this is the case on the board but I'm sure that's not what parabolic means... See below..
The board is an epoxy sandwich affair which generally don't need stringers anyway.
Parabola=
n. A plane curve formed by the intersection of a right circular cone and a plane parallel to an element of the cone or by the locus of points equidistant from a fixed line and a fixed point not on the line.
Parabolic is something with the above properties... That's so much clearer to me now. :-\
I think Parabolic stringers referse to anything that has stringers that aren't straight down the centre like in conventional boards; like parabolic skis (carvers) it doesn't necessarily meant the shape if the stringer is a geometric parabola.
from a fixed line and a fixed point not on the line.
A personal opinion (apologies to BIC owners)
BICs and NSPs are great to start on; reasonably priced, tough and very stable, but if you plan on spending a fir amount of time in the water you will improve farly quickly and you will find them to be a bit lifeless and unresponsive, and will soon find yourself hankering after a more progressive board.
I would look for a traditional glassed minimal / funboard / hybrid shape, especially if you are learning on the east coast, where waves can be a bit gutless. The newer lightweight epoxy boards are good, but not great if there is any wind or chop on the surface.
Where were you out? If it was with C2C at Dunbar, have a chat with Tim, Josh or Sam and try out some boards from them, or ask them for advice.
If you are east coast Scotland based, they are the only bet (unless you include Granite Reef here in Aberdeen, which I wouldn't), as far as trying out boards / lessons / gear hire. They are all sound guys, good knowledge, and run a good little operation.
Online reviews of boards are not worth the paper they are written on.
ALLLRRRIIIGGGHHHTTTT!!!!! I'm now the owner of a surfboard. Mad props to Chris!
Shall I pay you now? Its fuckin mahoosive, feel like I'll be able to catch the tides. Plus I now know what my reach is off the ground... 7'8"!
Shall I pay you now?
Head East next week JB. Tuesday and Wednesday looking very peachy for Yorkshire.
Head East next week JB. Tuesday and Wednesday looking very peachy for Yorkshire.:'(
good conditions in SW, snow in Aberdeen. Cairngorms are white, Lecht is closed, snow to sea level tomorrow. Makes dawnies before work a supreme effort of will. Pass the mittens and hood.
It's getting kinda heavy
(http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/hugeoakley-600.jpg)
Beating doesn't sound fun either.
http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/huge-west-oz-wave-tow-11-5-08/ (http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/huge-west-oz-wave-tow-11-5-08/)
Sods law. I am in Telford for a wedding. Look for a sheltered spot, as it is going to be windy too!
study leave
any good beginner body boarding near kinsale south of Cork?
I'm planning some study leave in the area for sept time and i'm considering various recreational activities to plug in at the same time... ;D
Ha nice! I knew you were jealous, now its my turn! Porth Oer?
Nice clm, what dimensions? I believe I once smited you for Bic ownership. As i said elsewhere, the balance is now redressed.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3516/3210572238_ec72ca1a94.jpg?v=0)Who's THAT guy? And WHOSE the talented lensman? ;D
Ive not forgotten the negative karma chris. the bic lives in the van for tiny surf days. im keeping it for the day when i share a break with you. ill hang way out back catching everything and fall of just when i arrive anywhere near you so you can get mullered by a flying plastic log.
Nice little cover up, not bad for a spazz foot.Errr! Cheers. Charts are looking guff for the foreseeable future but it is due to be dry for a long period too, time to surf some granite me thinks...
The Wire and the Granticus in action on a little raid to Cornwall, Godrevy - 28th Feb.. 8)
Fistral was pumpimg yesterday!!!!Nice little clean wave apparently but not what I would describe as pumpology. It's gotta be at least shoulder high.. :P
Had to leave it to come up to work!!!
I got in for the first time for months on Sunday on the reef at Hells Mouth. Surprised myself to find I could still surf...Yeah it's like riding a bike you know! Seen some choice piccies from Hell's Mouth recently, chunky hollow and crystal clear water, looks class when it's working. I'm guessing big swell from the S/SW, light winds or northerlies will make you folks happy? The question is, is it worth a long trip up there or am I better off hitting S Coast spots down here that will fire in similar conditions??
Fistral was pumpimg yesterday!!!!Yep - its been great for several days now. Sunday we bouldered at fistral followed by a mellow sunset surf, not so good for the fingertips but there we go..
Had to leave it to come up to work!!!
almost flat now, although apparently gwenvor was still a good 3ft yesterday, a real swell magnet that place
great Aileen's footage, plus some other nice clips.
You from round there Ben!
FD you up here next week? Poss some wave action if wind plays ball? Evening sessions are on now. Stick a wetty in if you got room.
Back for Easter... any one know what the breaks @ the Gower are called...
Has dropped off out here! wind is still a little strong, but looks like a good swell could hit you...
have a good one!
doin two week on and of rotations... might stash a board up in Abo 4 the summer!!!!
I LOVE it... never been happier.
Does anyone have any experience of Spider boards?
I had heard about the glassing being an issue, but could only find old threads on the internet referring to them, so was wondering if it could be a problem of the past? SA Chris, when you say cast your doubts on this, do you mean they confirm your doubts or cast them into a firey pit of hell? Afraid I'm a bit too tired to read anything more complex than the beano at the moment.
I'm generally happy in anything up to head high surf, and have occasionally bricked it in bigger. And whilst I realise I have a long way to go in surfing, I just feel like I'm gravitating back towards a slightly shorter board. Not exactly shortboard, just shorter board, I'm also just not that keen on long boarding, and don't really see the attraction in nose riding/ cross stepping etc.
I'm generally happy in anything up to head high surf, and have occasionally bricked it in bigger. And whilst I realise I have a long way to go in surfing, I just feel like I'm gravitating back towards a slightly shorter board. Not exactly shortboard, just shorter board, I'm also just not that keen on long boarding, and don't really see the attraction in nose riding/ cross stepping etc.
Not sure what the others are going to recommend for you, but i have a 6'11 Spider Murphy thruster i am about to de-wax and sell on ebay. I used it as a transition board from Mal to shortboard. With your height it might not be a bad option?
According to the Roger Cooper site info, all of his boards are glass. I think it's just incredibly buoyant, it has a lot of volume. So it's not just me being a bit soft then? Having the board reverberate gets on your tits as well?
Speaking of epoxy...is there a consensus yet? Good, bad, no different? O'shea claim to make hand shaped epoxy boards...is that possible? Forgive my ignorance.
I'm generally happy in anything up to head high surf, and have occasionally bricked it in bigger. And whilst I realise I have a long way to go in surfing, I just feel like I'm gravitating back towards a slightly shorter board. Not exactly shortboard, just shorter board, I'm also just not that keen on long boarding, and don't really see the attraction in nose riding/ cross stepping etc.
I'm 11 1/2 stone
Hey all,
Am looking at replacing a Roger Cooper 7'6" mini-mal with something a tad shorter.
Does anyone have any experience of Spider boards? Think they're shaped in SA, Chris?
Am specifically looking at: 7'0" Round Pin Tail (http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/cgi-bin/miva?wcs/merchant.mv+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=1&Product_Code=SPI70R&Category_Code=SPIDER)
Any thoughts or alternatives even?
Cheers,
Gruff
Who thinks it's time to start a separate Surf board (no pun intended) on ukb? Seems like there are a good few of us who're into it.
Nice pic JB did you take it?
Hey Gruff,
without know your weight and height and types of breaks your surfing. beach breaks i guess.. (weight around 70 -80 kg around 5'10 tall??)
i would suggest getting a round square tail around 6'6 to 6'8 19 1/2 inches wide and around 2 1/2 inches thick (max) 2 5/16 (min)
at first this will feel like a toothpick. but it will give you a new found freedom in getting out the back without expending copious amounts of energy.
learning / stepping up from learning using a big board (6'10 or bigger) or mal is a false economy...
Seem to be improving every session at the mo which is encouraging, need more fitness though and struggling getting out through the white water, got absolutlely worked the last two sessions. Any tips on getting a biggish board out through the breakers? What about turns? I'm pretty much totally self taught at the mo... making it up as I go...
I hear what you're saying but only half agree. You're a miles better surfer than anyone on here and I totally respect your opinions when it comes to surfing but I'm wondering whether you are overestimating peoples ability to learn quickly. I remember going to Spain with Darren when he was on a 6'8 and he struggled his t*ts off the whole time just catching waves and getting to his feet. I thought he should have been on something bigger and more stable - not a mini-mal but a larger funboard. I just think that for a weekend warrior, covered in neoprane who isn't going to get that much water time going down to a 6'6 is too much of a big step... but then again you never know eh :shrug:
I know it isn't exactly hand made by a local shaper but I did a bit of research before parting with the money and think it'll do for me for the moment. It was Bill Attlee - the shapers - comments in this thread that swayed me, I wouldn't have been particularly interested in something made in China otherwiseYeah... A lot of shapers are sourcing their work out to China nowadays, you may well be supporting your local shaper who is then in turn supporting machine operaters out in China. It's difficult one! The boards look good though, think it is more important to hear that the shaper has a good relationship with the factory and is keeping a handle on quality etc.. Let us know how she rides!
My climbing strength is improving no end at the moment... ie... the surf has been pish!
Following on from my post earlier about my board that i am selling. Anyone care to suggest how much its worth now. :shrug: I am out the loop with surfboard prices now, having not been in the water for ages.
Its a 6ft 11 Spider Murphy Thruster. Excellent condition.
Going to put it on ebay, but if anyone on here wants it let me know.
Heading to the West Coast of France (Vendee region) in July for a fortnight of summer surf.Have been a couple of times to Cap d'Homy which is halfway between Bordeaux and Biarritz. Little 'summer bay' type place, big campsite, boulanger, small grocers, bar and a surf shop.. all you need. Campsite is relatively cheap, really good and 5mins walk to the plage. Lovely tarmac cycle tracks up/down the coast (great restaurant to cycle to for lunch 40mins up coast). Funky old lighthouse. Wave isn't the best in the area but reasonably decent and gets same swell as others obviously. Only thing is if weather/surf aint great then there isn't really anything to do close by, but that sums up that whole bit of coast really.
Check out those vortices! How does that work?
again will be nasty onshore but im getting desperate.
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/james-hollmer-cross-gets-the-scariest-barrel-of-all-time-at-shipsterns-bluff-sequence-of-the-week_15715/photos/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/james-hollmer-cross-gets-the-scariest-barrel-of-all-time-at-shipsterns-bluff-sequence-of-the-week_15715/photos/1/)
Once it is loaded, you can run your cursor accross the screen to get the sequence. Love the boards hanging off the lip, and the shadow figure hidden in the depths of the barrel.
http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/):o Thats some big waves (e.g. @12mins)
Full length vid on Irish surfing on MSW. Really good...
http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/)
Full length vid on Irish surfing on MSW. Really good...
Another 3 hours in the water today. Sunburned and sore.... Ace
Another 3 hours in the water today. Sunburned and sore.... Ace
Where the flip are you finding waves?
At work til Friday, damn it. I take it you or the waves'll not be still around next week?
Magic seaweed forecasts are a work of fiction
PS. never show me a video of you enjoying powder like that ever again.
Goatboater is really for Waveskis (Gay On A Tray) and would actually be a complement to many kayakers as Waveskis are a fair bit faster.
I don't see any surfers in Philo's photos - why all the kneejerk aggro?Goatboater is really for Waveskis (Gay On A Tray) and would actually be a complement to many kayakers as Waveskis are a fair bit faster.
i just see them all as potential dangers in the water who have no concept of line up ethics.
ohh yes, i'll just sit a bit further out than the mal riders, they seem to be getting all the waves. i'll just get them before they do!! :thumbsdown:
ohh Andy,Oh I see - my mistake - you were being funny - for a moment, I thought it was another tedious outdoor clique....
get a life mate, :wank:
it's all banter.
don't you know that all surfers on this site only surf heaving barrelling slabs, not the onshore mushy crap dipicted in these images....
I don't see any surfers in Philo's photos - why all the kneejerk aggro?Goatboater is really for Waveskis (Gay On A Tray) and would actually be a complement to many kayakers as Waveskis are a fair bit faster.
i just see them all as potential dangers in the water who have no concept of line up ethics.
ohh yes, i'll just sit a bit further out than the mal riders, they seem to be getting all the waves. i'll just get them before they do!! :thumbsdown:
ohh Andy,Oh I see - my mistake - you were being funny - for a moment, I thought it was another tedious outdoor clique....
get a life mate, :wank:
it's all banter.
don't you know that all surfers on this site only surf heaving barrelling slabs, not the onshore mushy crap dipicted in these images....
:wave:
Have you actually got any investment in the issue Andy? Kayaker/surfer? Or have you just decided to get all libertarian about something for the sake of it? It's obviously all banter. From my limited experience I've seen plenty of cliquey shit going on in the world of surfing, what we're writing here is hardly it.
don't you know that all surfers on this site only surf heaving barrelling slabs, not the onshore mushy crap dipicted in these images....You got me sussed 8)
Yeah! Who'd have thought it surf in Sssssssss .......... Scarborough.. and Whitby Bay Thanks a bunch FD... :Pwell done Falling Down, there's too many tourists popping up to the North east to surf those places he seeks.
If I needed that kind of knowledge I'd have looked at Magicseaweed or my Surf UK guide...which I just did.. These aren't secrets they're normal slack beachies, exactly NOT what I'm looking for :furious:
Suppose you think you're funny:lol:
:o 8-9 foot sets today absolute monsters in comparison to normal, get your arses north eastwards!
frantic self centred breaks in the south west and south wales::)
give people who have the iniatitive & patience in learning to read charts, the reward of enjoying their efforts.
Was down your favourite bouldering spot a month or two ago (it was actually working this time!) and met one of the friendliest locals I've ever come across. More or less bullied us into the water with his enthusiasm and was whoopin at all and sundry. A bit of an uplift after some of the neoprene clad stoneface warriors at Croyde.This could only be one person ... and he is normally very high spirited as you met him... However, once upon a time he was having a bad time of it in his personal life and getting repeatedly snaked on the rights.. Let's just say the otherside of his personality came out, quite a shock for us all but looks like normal service has resumed. Glad to hear it.
Yeah! Who'd have thought it surf in Sssssssss .......... Scarborough.. and Whitby Bay Thanks a bunch FD... :Pwell done Falling Down, there's too many tourists popping up to the North east to surf those places he seeks.
If I needed that kind of knowledge I'd have looked at Magicseaweed or my Surf UK guide...which I just did.. These aren't secrets they're normal slack beachies, exactly NOT what I'm looking for :furious:
Suppose you think you're funny:lol:
:wave:
what happened to initative, grab some fuel and a map and find your waves. the north east isn't like the the west coast of OZ...........
Philo, i don't care whether you're a 'surfer as well', good for you.
what i find annoying is that you are telling people to look at areas where perhaps they wouldn't.
why is it that people need to be told where to surf nowdays????
if people like you want to tell people where the waves are, before you know it, all surf spots will be like the frantic self centred breaks in the south west and south wales.
give people who have the iniatitive & patience in learning to read charts, the reward of enjoying their efforts.
As a relative newcomer to surfing I have to admit that I really don't get localism. The only sensible reason I can think of for it is that spots only work at certain times and under certain conditions and that good waves at these places are therefore limited. Kinda like people crowding to try Brad Pitt on a freezing day in the winter. To claim you have some greater right to surf a beach than anyone else, to me, seems ludicrous.you kind of the the nail on the head there Baron,
well done Falling Down, there's too many tourists popping up to the North east to surf those places he seeks.
I reckon that if you're are maintaining the attitude that folks shouldn't travel and surf 'your' favourite spots that you should immediately give up the idea of surfing anywhere else. A bit like the idea that ...if you join the BNP, you should immediately destroy your passport. :)
I don't think I puntered anyone did I? :shrug:
I don't think I puntered anyone did I?FD I didn't punter you, my mind was in a muddle.... Twas the Aussie wind up merchant I was referring to...
Surfwise doc repeated tonight on More4 at 10pm. Well worth a watch/record if you haven't seen it.Was Doc Paskowitz the guy that was taking surfboards over the border into Palestine from Isreal to give to the young people there? Seem to remember reading about it somewhere (Surfer's Path?), was pretty cool gesture/action anyway because there was no way these kids were ever gonna get their hands on a board anyother way and they were stoked to use them.
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/)
WOW :bow:
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/)
WOW :bow:
Adam...50?
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/)
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/Indeed! Boomer of a swell... Amazing shots... Particularly the dolphin enjoying the surf.
WOW
Idol moving to Croyde.... Share the wealth!
New JOB! (ironic II).... leads me out of Kernow, got mates around there.... winter lets are cheaper
winter lets are cheaper!!!
September is usually good, but this one has been poor.
Heard from a friend that someone local here is over there too, not your mates from here FD?
technically, it is absolutley mindblowing, when you add that to the context of the wave, the live coral slab half a metre below. one of the best waves i have ever seen ridden.
Got my first taste of aggro in the water yesterday from some rather serious south bay 'Locals'. They were very good surfers but snaked everything and were quite happily mowing people down. Apparently that's ok because they live there. After I politely remonstrated with them much hilarity ensued, and once I got over my disbelief that grown men could actually gang up and behave like playground bullies it was quite funny. They didn't like it when I just laughed back at them.
Granticus and Idle Lies, how's the SW?better than the shithole you surf in!
Granticus and Idle Lies, how's the SW?better than the shithole you surf in!
Granticus and Idle Lies, how's the SW?better than the shithole you surf in!
Uncalled for.... :spank:
Was it?
I'd like to see out at Nigg when it's six foot in February.
Me Too!!!!
Really good footage of Gerlach showing balls in the Ments..
Gerlach killing Kandui (http://magicseaweed.com/Gerr-at-Epic-Kandui-Content/1966/)
Cheap flights to Marrocco! 20 quid each way... Booked!take a pair of shoes , chalk and a bouldering pad.
Yep, till sunday. We are touring around though. Prob hit up a few quiet spots with a friend who lives there.Cool, Tag On... Party week end central. meet at on the rocks bar around nine friday ! doss at mine but poss no sleep!
Got a feeling its going to be well Benidorm, The whole of Costa del Quay is going, My birthday party is 1st of the 12th, Ag a dir dir dir shake my mind up make a tree, Ag a dir dir dir ,doa do da memory... or something!Cheap flights to Marrocco! 20 quid each way... Booked!take a pair of shoes , chalk and a bouldering pad.
there are some amazing caves on the right side of the road opposite the Draculas reef. just before boilers. you can't miss them.
i did a few problems there. but didn't have the 'proper grips and rock boots".
there is potential for some great looking routes as well. take a drill.
I miss surfing!
For some reason the ABC over here have this little piece on their website at the moment.
Yep, till sunday. We are touring around though. Prob hit up a few quiet spots with a friend who lives there.Cool, Tag On... Party week end central. meet at on the rocks bar around nine friday ! doss at mine but poss no sleep!
Whats up with the ply-board thing though, looks like it would be very hard to use?
Werte is Draculars?Draculas is well past anchors going to Boilers. storm rider euro has details.
Esouannes is the tip if we need not the gun vibe at Anchors? got any other suggestions!!!
Taking a 9.o A 9.4 and a 9.6
plus gun 7.4?
Bloke was in Aberdeen the other day with a waterproof camera - mate tracked him down and go onto his Flickr site - even though it's hard to see, he got a nice shot of me
My best surf ever, was tripping out at Croyde on the low @3ft... leashless on a 9.4 single fin, The first time I almost landed a helicopter with out spinning (I.E. cross stepping)....
Bailed the landing coz of a few punters on the inside.
looked longboardable???
:bounce: Just booked a hol with mrs granticus to Lanzarote in late March... Anyone been? Am I gonna get speared to death by urchins? I am comfortable riding reefs so should be good, although El Quemao is not high on my list (looks good for lid riders though!)... Any wisdom welcomed?
Granticus,
i forgot to answer the urchin question.
i personaly didn't feel that they were that big a issue, however you may want to take a pair boots .
but beware that the little bastards can still pierce through.
nevertheless, as you will have your tweezers with you ;) , it will give a nice 30 mins activity at the end of the day picking the bits of barb out while you sip beer.
Oldfella:lol: :lol:
You must have the wrong preson, i am one of the milton Keynes massive. Our local spots are on the EAST coast out past the wash.
I love pasties and am hopeing to move to newquay next year once i have finished converting my split screen VW.
I went upto the NE coast once but it was too cold the locals were miserable bastards and took offence at me and my 8 mates catching party waves.
Moray Coast was apparently ace yesterday, shame I couldn't get there.
CLM could you see that pic I sent you a link to?
most waves closing out onto slab leaving me battered brused and with my tail between my legs. Plus yet another badly dinged board (luckily not terminal). This is now my third board in two months that has been claimed by this reef, 1 totally dead and two in intensive care, who said surfing was cheap?
South coast banging 8 ft yesterday two spongers and and three Newquayites....was the report for Porthleven...
Fistral clean today... good 3 ft sets...Yeah Gwithian was nice too (but Godrevy bouldering was wet..)
South coast banging 8 ft yesterday
Amazing swell would wrap all the way in there. Any pics?
Watched a few videos just now during lunch :o
Bit of a pipe-dream of being able to surf any of that at the moment!
Wow! You down at Easter FD?
Watched a few videos just now during lunch :o
Bit of a pipe-dream of being able to surf any of that at the moment!
I'm sure the locals had to learn somewhere though. You might just have to man up and take lots of beatings :-)
Nice One...Aye! Twas flippin marvelous.. And what do I return to, snow, rain, wind, mush.. Looking pretty ugly for surfing down here at the moment :thumbsdown:
.. just got back from Lanzarote and swell was pumping,
Granticus,
glad you had some good waves in lanza.
surprised you did see jerry out there. bastard is there every 2nd week now days.....
No swell. No Swell. No Swell! Been a while since that's been the case, had a last blast at Croyde this morning on my longboard!
Heard sunday morning was good at Saunton? May have been mate prone to hyperbole though.
So you eventually went for a longboard after initial reticence then?
First dawnie of the year. YYFY. Small clean swell, nice for some longboard glides. Then it started snowing!? Was just about hypothermic by the time I changed out of wettie, got dressed and walked to work. It's mid April FFS.
Water is still f**king cold though, cant see taking hood and gloves off for at least another month
I think/hope it will be possible to watch it on t'interweb by setting your region on bbc website to NI and then watching live.
I will take solace in the fact that a 10ft swell on a shallow reefbreak would probably kill me outright.
Gwenvor looks like it was over-saturated on Saturday :PYeah twas taken with my new HTC Desire and not entirely convinced by it's camera..
(an ear infection kept me out of the water for 4 days though :().
I think/hope it will be possible to watch it on t'interweb by setting your region on bbc website to NI and then watching live.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00scvjr/Waveriders/ (http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00scvjr/Waveriders/)
It's available on DVD down here courtesy of our version of Auntie (the ABC that is.)Tis available yer too but I'm a bit on the mean side so watching it for free was just what i was after.
Some nice footage, not sure what benefit there was including Slutter in it though.
It's available on DVD down here courtesy of our version of Auntie (the ABC that is.)
Flat again now...
No probs. I recommend getting a bit of swimming in and do at least a few push ups and pop ups at home every day before you go. Nothing worse that reaching that point in the session where things are really starting to come together technique wise and your arms start giving out.
guess thats me too fd. Wide i get, tricep? Long?
Long - I do them with my hands in front of my head.
Those are the most popular options there are loads of quieter spots inbetween. Granticus may spill the beans on some via PM if he's feeling generous.JH I may be too late for your trip but given that you are a rank beginner on an 8''6 my advice is this.. Ideally you want offshore or very light winds and a nice knee to waste high wave.
I've not surfed much in Devon, but when I climbed at THAT PLACE, close to Hartland, last year there were loads of folk in the water in the beach below.It is a reef break, waves break over jagged rock fins, it also very localised and not the sort of place to rock up to if your face is not familiar. Not really what JH is after and not really a place to shout about :spank:
Long - I do them with my hands in front of my head.
They're hard! Tried them on rings?
JH I may be too late for your trip but given that you are a rank beginner on an 8''6 my advice is this.. Ideally you want offshore or very light winds and a nice knee to waste high wave.
Personally I'd head for the hebrides but I think she's keen for tropics, although she did seem ok with the idea of portugal. I need to get a girlfriend who surfs!
QuotePersonally I'd head for the hebrides but I think she's keen for tropics, although she did seem ok with the idea of portugal. I need to get a girlfriend who surfs!
Canaries would be a good compromise... went to Lanza for the first time this year and had an epic time.. (See earlier in
this thread)..
Don't get a girlfriend who surfs or try to teach yours to surf, this is a recipe for arguments galour. She can sunbathe
whilst you surf and you won't have to 'look after' someone in the line up. Leaving you to enjoy your selfish rights or lefts
free from the hassle (at least from the missus that is). Seriously, time apart is healthy and you don't need to surf all day.
You do your thing, she does hers and you do something together at another point in the day, simples. :kiss1:
I'm pretty crap at surfing (basic turns only!) and got the impression that there are few inbetween options in the canaries, either beach breaks or serious shallow reefs? i'm quite happy on reefs if the surf or the crowd isn't too large.
I've heard it's as sharky as fook. :(
QuoteI'm pretty crap at surfing (basic turns only!) and got the impression that there are few inbetween options in the canaries, either beach breaks or serious shallow reefs? i'm quite happy on reefs if the surf or the crowd isn't too large.
Not all the reefs are seriously shallow on Lanza but there is definitely a crowd/locals factor. Spain, SW France or Portugal sound like the goer. Sri Lanka's supposed to be awesome mind.. looks like it pumps at A Bay in October with morning offshores.. and plenty of long mellow sandy points, yum yum.. http://magicseaweed.com/spot-monthly-overview.php?spotId=562&month=10 (http://magicseaweed.com/spot-monthly-overview.php?spotId=562&month=10)
Failing that you could come and spend some of your hard earned in the SW Uk... :thumbsup:
FAO anyone who surfs Hells Mouth. Anyone know the 'conditions' for a decent wave.
FAO anyone who surfs Hells Mouth. Anyone know the 'conditions' for a decent wave.
Deep Low Pressure in Mid Atlantic? :)
Cheers for all the ideas, I think suggesting sri lanka early on in the negotiations was a mistake as the weather, elephants etc have made all other options less attractive. Will try some of the others next year.
Someone told me the exact setup to look out for, but have forgotten. Any useful answers?
QuoteCheers for all the ideas, I think suggesting sri lanka early on in the negotiations was a mistake as the weather, elephants etc have made all other options less attractive. Will try some of the others next year.
Gutted for you!! :boohoo: Mate Sri Lanka, by all accounts, will be mint.Quote
Ok you may have a point. Looking forward to it now :bounce:
is that better?! :-[
>Any useful answers?
The basics for Hells Mouth are a good South Westerly swell from a Biscay'ish low and E/NE winds with a pushing tide.
>Any useful answers?
The basics for Hells Mouth are a good South Westerly swell from a Biscay'ish low and E/NE winds with a pushing tide.
Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
:wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :furious:
Actually dont worry about it particularly. I was just talking to Dr Pinch who said you should go and try some on and pick one that fits and that you can afford. Sounds like good advice I thought.
>Any useful answers?
The basics for Hells Mouth are a good South Westerly swell from a Biscay'ish low and E/NE winds with a pushing tide.
Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
:wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :furious:
The only way to be 100% sure of a good wave down there, is to wait for a a full blown depression to roll up under ireland, with 8 foot swell and howling onshore, head to the north and your away. If anyone thinks they can predict 'good' surf at hells mouth and get it right then ill buy the :beer1: :beer1:
and create a new fenced in path along the rapidly eroding cliff top (mmmm.....)
I'd be very sad if it was taken away to make way for a bigger car park that caters for the overflow that only happens on busy weekends.when you start having to pay 5 quid for 3 hrs parking, the logic will be as clear as crystal with probably 3% of revenue raised go to the land owner
I just don't see the logic in the proposal.
when you start having to pay 5 quid for 3 hrs parking, the logic will be as clear as crystal with probably 3% of revenue raised go to the land owner
It is pumping down here again!!!!
Where is down here as i (being a sad chart obsessive who checks everywhere in the uk to make myself miserable) cant see anywhere in the UK that would come even close to being called pumping???
Close to being called rideable may be closer to the mark.
I guess your somewhere overseas.
3. Standing up is the beginning, not the end.
3. Standing up is the beginning, not the end.
I'm hooked :thumbsup:
I remember thinking I was a natural after standing up during my first lesson, only to later realise I'm crap and I wasn't surfing a board, it was a boat.
So board was 7'6"then? should be about right for a fit and healthy young male! I did a lot of my learning on a 8ish ft board, and it served me well for a long time.
Go home, regroup, head down again Sept Oct time. Crowds have gone home, air is cooler so water feels warmer, and you get the autumn / early winter swells start to pick up. And remember Hell's mouth and the N Yorkshire coast aren't that far away!
Next stage for you, (once you can stand confidentally and straight line it in the whitewater), is taking off as the wave breaks, the 'bottom turn' and 'trimming' across the wave to stay in the green (or brown for you NE folk) water. First time you do this and the wave stays open, will be a bigger buzz than standing up and will get you fully hooked.
Already got September in the diary Chris................... :thumbsup:
Already got September in the diary Chris................... :thumbsup:
Get down the local leisure centre and start the lenghts then! At first crawl crawl crawl, then work on doing lengths underwater, and sprints.
Enjoy it while you can Ben, things at the Mouth are set to change if certain people get their way.
In my experiance the Lleyn would by the new Knoydart if it wasnt for English people.
I thinks it's going to be a long summer...
everyone goes ballistic if you so much has hint as to their location
I hope you didn't just mention the L-word Idol! :spank:
I can't get my head round this protectionism bullshit at all. Strange how surfing seems to cultivate all these petty egos.
I hope you didn't just mention the L-word Idol! :spank:
Last time i checked it was in the stormrider guide?
how come you cant go in the water? is it close to the socket as well?It's just the arch but quite a bad fracture. Can't risk pushing it back in once the fracture is fixed, no plates no wires you see...
Last time i checked it was in the stormrider guide?Don't think any locals had a say in this, imagine if it happened to your favourite 'secret' break, it was a secret once upon a time..
It is ridiculously busy down here at the moment though, last week I counted 52 people in at GwithianLynmouth is getting ridiculous at times, particularly weekends and, as GME points out for his end of the country, there are far too many folk without the required skills, respect for locals or manners
Reply to Johnny Brown
I liken it to spending your whole winter training and waiting for the right conditions to do a new problem which is as good as careless torque, that you have been quitely trying for years with a few friends before a uk B forum decided to run a thread on it, so that now every time you turn up to try it there are 50 other people doing the same and are not politely waiting for there go. See how you then feel about protectionism bullshit.
OK let's try and put a few things to bed.
There is localism in surfing. "You can't surf here, get the f*ck out of the water, go home". BAD, fact, period. No one likes that stuff, there's no room for it in the sport or the culture. We see very little of it in the UK thankfully and on the rare occaisions it does happen it's usually just ego stroking and can just be ignored.
Then there's fustration in the water or behaviour that's frowned upon that isn't as obvious. This does need acknowledging and exploring a little because what sometimes gets interpreted as 'localism' is actually a genuine and legitimate reaction to an infraction of some of the unwritten and not-so-obvious rules of surfing. As illustration....
Getting in the way - Paddling out to a peak and sitting on the inside in front of the take off or further down the line. This happens to everyone of course but there are repeat offenders.
Pulling out of a takeoff on a wave that's well makeable - A relative beginner paddles for a wave who's got priority and just doesn't go, usually happens on slightly bigger days when commitment is needed. If you are paddling, go for it and don't pull back as soon as it looks scary.
Paddling to the peak out of turn - Another common mistake, especially made by the newly competent surfer who's mastered the art of catching most waves and turning. Catch a wave, ride it well, all flushed with excitement and paddle enthusiastically straight out to the peak for the next one. Whoops. Should've have sat on the inside a while and let the others in the pack take their waves. Climbers who have turned to surfing are notorious for this behaviour I think because of an ingrained tick mentality. We climbers have a bad rep in North Wales because of this...
These are all the equivalent of not cleaning boots, big tick marks, trying stuff that's way too hard, top roping hard sport routes on a tight rope and saying 'I did all the moves on x', dabs, standing on the matts close to the wall, using feet on a campus board. All the stuff we laugh about on here and sometimes turn away sn**gering about at the crag. That we then read about on the web when 'punters' talk about their visit to Malham, The Tor or the Plantation and say 'there were some locals who weren't very friendly'.
I've just re-read some of what I wrote and I probably sound like a right twat but I've sat in the water in North Wales, Yorkshire, Scotland, Indo, Spain and the Canaries with climbers turned surfers who have managed to rub people up without realising - me included when I first started out.
:)
I liken it to spending your whole winter training and waiting for the right conditions to do a new problem which is as good as careless torque, that you have been quitely trying for years with a few friends before a uk B forum decided to run a thread on it, so that now every time you turn up to try it there are 50 other people doing the same and are not politely waiting for there go. See how you then feel about protectionism bullshit.
That's what local knowledge means to me - not secrets. I'm not convinced surfing is so different.exactly - if you're a local who has learnt the vagaries of a particular break, its banks, the tides, the rips, etc. then you'll be out there having a top session when magicseaweed gave it 1* and everyone else stayed at home. As with climbing, there are plenty of quiet spots if you're happy to walk 10-15mins from the car.
I was also trying to say that its the behavior of the people who visit some of the out of the way places
Personally, I reckon I'll be heading to Ireland in preference to the NE because of my perception of the scene up there.
Magic seaweed is incorrect!
I have no problem with sections of the Welsh, Cornish, Scottish, English and Irish coastline being described as offering considerable possibilities of surf for those of an exploratory bent but I do have an issue with specific spots being documented to the finest detail including pictures/video and conditions reports being posted all over Magic Seaweed and other internet forums.
Your mate in Aus is unlucky.
However i do find it weird that you think all surfers should be over the moon and delighted to see car loads of other surfers turning up at there quiet waves
without knowing your mate
But if the fact that the number of people at stanage was directly impacting on how much fun you were having i cant believe that you would not be pissed off.
If not then you are lucky to be able to keep a happy mind set through anything, as i certainly cant.
One of the nicest guys I've ever met.
The east coast is not localised at all if you play the game right. Van loads of pasties hitting up the media slut left hander every time it works have maybe soured the locals a bit, but not to an agressive level.:great: No troublems, would happily return the favour and happy to show any folk around.
Anytime you want to come up i will be happy to show you around as i am sure you would keep the info to yourself and not post it all over MSW. Hopefully you could return the favour when i am occasionally down your end of the country.
anyone can be a victim of circumstance.
that fat shit from wales who makes boards.
All the so called secret spots up north Devon way are going to be on?
Already the best comp this year, perfect perfect righthanders, best surfers in the world.
What more could anyone want.
Other than it to be going the other way obviously.
boomhower is ridiculous.
Does this pic make anyone else feel slightly ill?
http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/)
Does this pic make anyone else feel slightly ill?
http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/)
Urgh, I really regret clicking through, that's a gnarly wound.
Ouch. The Mavericks footage scares the bejesus out of me.
Ouch. The Mavericks footage scares the bejesus out of me.
Check out Powers of Three (https://www.relentlessenergy.com/films/view/powers-of-three) about three mates surfing some of the huge waves on the West coast of Eire.
Surfed a secret wedge mid tide on the push yesterday...
It's between Woolacoombe and Sennen...
Reiff
Each to their own. Which areas did you climb at?
If you are mainly surfing and riding, why did you ask about climbing? 4 days is not very long.
For riding, you will go past Learnie Red Rocks, with some super rocky black circuits, and Golspie, take your strongest set of thighs. You will go pretty close to Woftrax at Laggan too.
http://www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/INFD-6NZE9W (http://www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/INFD-6NZE9W)
http://www.highlandwildcat.com/ (http://www.highlandwildcat.com/)
http://www.basecampmtb.com/trails.html (http://www.basecampmtb.com/trails.html)
MS is predicting overhead for Sunday.
GME has loads and knows him well.
remember you turn up with a slick board and people will be expecting some flairing,
Did he not have any of these on the shelf?
http://www.jpsurfboards.co.uk/quadfin_surfboards.htm (http://www.jpsurfboards.co.uk/quadfin_surfboards.htm)
6'4 x 20.5 x 2 1/2
I ride an almost identical template but it's Bunty
Did you use it on your Banyak trip?
One of my boards i am getting rid of is 6`3" x 19 1/2 x 2 1/2. JP squash. Not a lot of rocker and a good bit of weight under your chest for paddling and (as pointed out by oldfella) not thick around the edges . I got it shaped 4 years ago as my slop board and it goes great in usual british conditions. I am 78-80Kg and six one so not small and its a great board for me in anything from knee to head high waves. Its in pretty good nick with a few dings but all fixed up. Should be perfect for you.
I am only getting rid to make space as i now have a 6`0" and 5`9" i ride on small days.
You can have it for 100.00 in deck pad and then get your self a good travel board. Oldfella is right re having different boards for travelling as a lot of UK style boards just dont work in better waves.
the extra days will reduce the effects of jetlag on GME when he gets back home..
then a night in kuta before we part ways :pissed:
I am 78-80Kg ..
I am in the NE but in sheff every week. Will take a pic over the weekend and get it to you if I can work out how to do that.
I am 78-80Kg
I was 78 kg flat last night on the scales. My love handles were coming on nicely since becoming a surfer. Now I am bouldering a fair bit I have realised that they don't really help so have dropped half a stone.
And dave I can't quite remember but suspect the spreading years are already upon you.
This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.
This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.
Just looks like he has taken his fins off...
This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.
Just looks like he has taken his fins off...
and i dont think its jbay.
too slow, and uneven.
This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.
Just looks like he has taken his fins off...
Like saying he has just climbed 8c barefoot. Have you ever lost one fin and tried to surf? Some of the spins and stuff are just about impossible.
and i dont think its jbay.
too slow, and uneven.
Pretty sure it isn't, bit too deep too.
Trimming? Is that moving fore and aft to keep the ride going?
Just a heads up - a lot of Weever Fish at Porth Ceriad at the mo. I got stung twice, Ellie once. None were too bad but my toe is still numb and I daresay if you stood on one properly you'd be in a bad way. Shame to wear booties in summer but probably wise.Poor boody weever fish a having to sting one of your toes!
Bit crowded though with a whole 7 people in the water, some of which had travelled more than 2 miles to get here. I got fully local on there asses though as perscribed earlier in this thread, that sorted them all out. ;)
Nice little session but cant wait for some proper grunt to arrive.
How much colder is the North Sea than the Irish? MSW seems to think only a couple of degrees, but I was expecting more...
Off to Abersoch tonight for the weekend if anyone is in Lleyn. Surf doesn't look too bad for the North Coast and sheltered spots.
Planning to head down on tues/ weds for the best part of a week. Anyone in the area and fancy some surf or trad adventure, hit me up. All the birdbans are off now so we can get in as deep as you dare...
Trying to get trad partners in the current age of sport
Slab?
QuoteTrying to get trad partners in the current age of sport
Tell me about it. I keep taking a trad rack to the Cornice, but getting people across the river you'd think it was the Rubicon ;)QuoteSlab?
No, there's a steep slab with some boulders at the bottom but I think its sand as soon as you get a little way out.
It is good, a tricam is crucial for the start. After that its not so bold.
That reminds me, has the point break in that area ever been surfed? Looks amazing - long ride potential.
Brown?:lol:
I'm heading down the Lleyn on weds. You're in the Pass over the bank holiday aren't you? I'll let you know if its any good.
Which North Coast?
Low is holding in the Bay of Biscay, so plenty of South in the swell
expect Lev'll be heaving.
Our very own Dave Lamacraft styling at Ceriad.
http://turtle.zenfolio.com/surfingporthceiriadsept10/e2f3910c5 (http://turtle.zenfolio.com/surfingporthceiriadsept10/e2f3910c5)
:thumbsup:
For once Aberdeen facing more SE paid off for once. Probably shoulder high ish this evening, only managed an hour or so before dark, but caught a half dozen great waves. Felt lack of fitness paddling out in big waves though, had to take a breather after each paddle out. Not good.Good training for next time though buddy :thumbsup:
Great shot - anyone we know?
Crantock last week.
(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/180956.jpg)
East coast this weekend should be looking like a brown version of that - and the sun might even come out too!
Russ Mullins in the pit!!!
Patrick King likes this.I'm happy for him but let's not start this again I was lost the first time, who owes who what? :shrug:
recommendations for bodyboarding shoes / flipper combos.
Go to south bay. You can get changed in the underground car park and stay warm. The water will be fine still too, just depends if the winds up or sun's out.
Surf off the arcades, in the lee of the harbour wall. The northerly swell should wrap around giving a smaller, cleaner wave.
Might be busy though.
suddenly realised the ones I have now that sink like a stone have been somewhat of a hinderance
Is it Vietnam?
Patrick King... almost as elusive as Dave Angel!!!
No one wants him though?:-\ This is suspiciously like someone anonomously fishing for praise, your name's not Pat is it Idol?
I heard he has made it!
Lives off of Virgins sweat and bathes in milk?
Drives a two seater red sports car...
all are rumours, bet He still partys hard though?
Was he climbing really well when you saw him?
No one wants him though?:-\ This is suspiciously like someone anonomously fishing for praise, your name's not Pat is it Idol?
I heard he has made it!
Lives off of Virgins sweat and bathes in milk?
Drives a two seater red sports car...
all are rumours, bet He still partys hard though?
Was he climbing really well when you saw him?
He was climbing OK, a little bit podgy, nothing that would've set the world on fire...
He was climbing OK, a little bit podgy, nothing that would've set the world on fire...
the next thing I know is he's sacked climbing
The MSW star system is the curse of the internet enabled surfer. Ignore if you can.
Update from today;
Cayton Bay wasn't working at all, although there were a few people out on the point doing Billy-Big-Balls stuff (which apparently was not great either).
North Bay, Scarborough wasn't happening, general carnage.
Unfortunately, South Bay, Scarborough was nothing like the 2 stars MSW would have you believe.
Busy, as it was giving all impressions of working, but that was just a trick to lure you in.
On closer inspection very few waves were being caught as things were quite messy and choppy.
Lots of double hitters etc.
We were in for about 3 hours trying to get somewhere, but..... :(
So if you didn't make it today, don't worry.
Last night however was quite nice...in the water until about 8:30pm..... :thumbsup:
Ate all my food and alleviated me of my crashpad for the afternoon (or was that Johnny Dawes!!?).No one wants him though?:-\ This is suspiciously like someone anonomously fishing for praise, your name's not Pat is it Idol?
I heard he has made it!
Lives off of Virgins sweat and bathes in milk?
Drives a two seater red sports car...
all are rumours, bet He still partys hard though?
Was he climbing really well when you saw him?
He was climbing OK, a little bit podgy, nothing that would've set the world on fire...
Did he eat all your food without asking whilst wearing a pair of Calvin Klein boxer shorts?
Epic up here on sat
there are pics about but they are all on flickr and i cant work out how to get them onto here.
Heres a link to his page if it works http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0097009/photos/swin_hoe/5008173544/ (http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0097009/photos/swin_hoe/5008173544/)
Some bean spillage on Vimeo
Yorkshire Pud (http://vimeo.com/15167785)
ET managing to get through those two lips at the end is pretty impressive.
Some bean spillage on Vimeo
Yorkshire Pud (http://vimeo.com/15167785)
ET managing to get through those two lips at the end is pretty impressive.
Some bean spillage on Vimeo
Yorkshire Pud (http://vimeo.com/15167785)
ET managing to get through those two lips at the end is pretty impressive.
Hey Chris do you know where this is exactly?, unless it says on the vid but im watchin it wit no sound. Im thinking shitty water so not to far north.
It's in Yorkshire...
i have had loads of emails and texts trying to get as many people as possible complaining to carve about it.
This has caused an absolute shit storm in the last 48 hrs, the locals (non of which are in the vid) are totally fucked off with the producer of the video. Even one of the surfers in it isnt happy. i have had loads of emails and texts trying to get as many people as possible complaining to carve about it.
Despite it being the worst kept secret in the world its still a secret spot and does not feature in any guides. So if you know where it is keep it to your self.
Re the link i posted, i would be greatful if it does not go further than this forum and, again if anyone knows me and can therfore identify where the pics are taken please keep it to themselves. i shouldnt really have posted them and kind of regret doing so now.
Ive got a really good local crag thats got some good problems on it, theres no way id want to try and stop anyone experiencing it. Selfish bastards is what they are.
Ive got a really good local crag thats got some good problems on it, theres no way id want to try and stop anyone experiencing it. Selfish bastards is what they are.
Crags accessible 180 days a year compared to breaks that work like that maybe 3 or 4 days a year do not equate. I can see why people get fucked off.
Magazines have little to gain in the long term by publishing things like this other than selling a few more copies of that current issue.
There is dickheadish chestbeating "I am a local this is my wave" localism and then there is justified, "I have waited for this day all year and don't want too big a crowd " localism. Two ends of the scale.
Re the link i posted, i would be greatful if it does not go further than this forum and, again if anyone knows me and can therfore identify where the pics are taken please keep it to themselves. i shouldnt really have posted them and kind of regret doing so now.
I am not getting involved in this again
It looks as though I'd be better heading to Croyde or somewhere nearby but I'm put off by stories of packed waves.
Anyone surfed Bridlington? Visiting folks in NE Lincs tmr and looking to find nearest place with some shelter from wind/swell.
My post was meant for philo not probes. I am fucking useless at this chat room shite.
My post was meant for philo not probes. I am fucking useless at this chat room shite.
God i sound like Machado
Any good punts for the weekend? considering jumping on a cheap'ish' flight on friday evening.
Back from three years in Aus and despite being a british national yet to surf over here! Any recommendations for a weekend hit?
im going nuts in London
France is looking OK but will be heaving due to the Quickpro...
;D :beer2: Time zips by! Just got back a few of weeks a go. The locum /surf travel dream had to end at some point. I very nearly got sucked into the
vortex of jungle surf where weeks simply drift by. A dangerous however quite pleasurable path to have trodden... ( for a time)..
Fat doc i have noted your frequency of posts on this 'surfer' forum :), tell me your surfing regularly...... beer? surf weekend up north?
How are tricks at ches vegas?
I'm a middle aged sponger, shite and proud:lol: Brilliant! The only way is up... Step 1)Middle aged sponger that charges Step 2) Middle aged sponger does drop knee 3) Middle age sponger realises standing up is much more fun.....
First time out on the surfboard in a long, long time today. Morning session at Putsborough, 4ftish, pretty clean. Probably caught more waves today than in all the last 5 years Even managed to stand up on one or two. Memo to self though, must put more wax on the board...
If you're gonna jump on a flight, Ireland's gotta be a good call for the weekend. France is looking OK but will be heaving due to the Quickpro...
QuoteAnd the charts for the foreseeable are :jaw:
Love midweek mornings after 9am in the autumn/ winter; No weekend warriors, the dawn patrollers have gone to work, have a go hero tourists have gone home, the roads are quiet, water's still warm ish and the swells keep coming... best time of year!!
Tuesday looks a little big & scary for me but somewhere sheltered for Weds and then Thurs looks mellow :)
Got to agree, best time of year for hitting the beaches, no crowds, easy parking, warm water...
Anyone tried the Patagucci ones yet? Spiel sounds impressive...
400 :o Sod that, you could by a new board for that, paying more for a wetsuit than you do for a board has to be a wrong un??!
400 :o Sod that, you could by a new board for that, paying more for a wetsuit than you do for a board has to be a wrong un??!
I hear what you are saying, but depends how long it lasts and how well it performs? If you can get all the warmth without the extra weigth and still have the flexibility it's got to be pretty valuable.
400 :o Sod that, you could by a new board for that, paying more for a wetsuit than you do for a board has to be a wrong un??!
Also - Boston Globe have this today:
http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/10/waveriders.html (http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/10/waveriders.html)
Curly Ben, you didn't say if you want the Miki Dora book back. I can either post it back to you or pass it on to any other UKBers who want to read it?
Cool, trust you have been practising pop ups and swimming since the last time.:ang: 'course I have Chris :whistle:
Best advice I can give for going down the line of the wave on your mal board is take off slightly sideways (esp if the wave is breaking steeply) look down the line where you want to go, and don't be shy to shuffle forward on the board once you are moving if you think the wave will leave you behind.
Ermmmm, once again showing my ignorance. I've picked up from a number of sources that some breaks work better at different stages of the tide. So, is there a general rule here?
sporting a Jim Morrison "Horse Latitude's" spray job on my W.E. 9.2 performance noserider!!!
This is what we woke up to on Saturday morning BIG old pulse of swell, was gone and much more friendly by the evening though. (A friend got absolutely munched trying to duck dive one of these big sets), Sunday was super fun, nothing left today. How'd it go JH?
Awesome Granticus. ;D Trouble is, it was WAYYYYY too big for me on Saturday, so I went to the dark side. Took out the body board and fins and had great fun. Back on the mini mal on sunday, caught a few, got dumped by a few. Woolacombe had some excellent peaks, I'm just not good enough to be in the right place at the right time! Sitting in the cafe on tuesday morning looking at a millpond out there - hey ho ::)
Sitting in the cafe on tuesday morning looking at a millpond out there - hey ho ::)
This is what we woke up to on Saturday morning BIG old pulse of swell, was gone and much more friendly by the evening though. (A friend got absolutely munched trying to duck dive one of these big sets), Sunday was super fun, nothing left today. How'd it go JH?
Awesome Granticus. ;D Trouble is, it was WAYYYYY too big for me on Saturday, so I went to the dark side. Took out the body board and fins and had great fun. Back on the mini mal on sunday, caught a few, got dumped by a few. Woolacombe had some excellent peaks, I'm just not good enough to be in the right place at the right time! Sitting in the cafe on tuesday morning looking at a millpond out there - hey ho ::)
as a newbie middle aged sponger, of no ability.. that sounds ace.. I'm jealous
This is very good
DARK SIDE OF THE LENS (http://vimeo.com/14074949)
But the free DVD is better than both!
Normally Chris, that'd be a given. Love the biking in the Quantocks but too knackered after the weekend to do it justice! Next time. Agree with everything you say about sponging, (hey, new word!) trying to read the waves better. Thinking of opting for a longer board next time in the hope I can catch waves earlier and stand more chance of staying in green water...Sitting in the cafe on tuesday morning looking at a millpond out there - hey ho ::)
You got bikes with you? Head to the Quantocks!
Sponging might be seen as a backward step, but at least you got some time in with bigger surf - anything you learn regarding reading and catching bigger waves is good time spent IMO.
Agree with everything you say about sponging
Agree with everything you say about NSFW sponging (http://xxxmultik.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/spongebob_01.jpg)
Normally Chris, that'd be a given. Love the biking in the Quantocks but too knackered after the weekend to do it justice! Next time. Agree with everything you say about sponging, (hey, new word!) trying to read the waves better. Thinking of opting for a longer board next time in the hope I can catch waves earlier and stand more chance of staying in green water...Sitting in the cafe on tuesday morning looking at a millpond out there - hey ho ::)
You got bikes with you? Head to the Quantocks!
Sponging might be seen as a backward step, but at least you got some time in with bigger surf - anything you learn regarding reading and catching bigger waves is good time spent IMO.
:-\
anyone of the east coast massive had any luck over the last couple of days?
Thinking of opting for a longer board next time in the hope I can catch waves earlier and stand more chance of staying in green water...
I'm about to pick up my first shortboard - Super Evo 6'6''x20''x2 3/4 from Adrian at Fluid Juice; 380!
http://www.fluidjuice.co.uk/pages/boardsbydesign.htm (http://www.fluidjuice.co.uk/pages/boardsbydesign.htm)
Great guys. Super helpful and friendly.
Cant think of a sport where someone has dominated for so long, he has been winning titles since 1992 and pretty much holds the record for everything, youngest, oldest, most, highest score etc etc.
want to see the beaut i picked up?
Forgot to mention that the jerry in the pics is the Jerry of climbing yore.
Are there any shapers in N Wales?
it was a basking shark.
The week after i surfed a spot at Knysna on my own in really nice conditions thinking this is nice.
any ideas where to be this week.? got tuesday, wednesday, thurs and poss friday- a car full of fuel and a tasty 6 2. What are options like around thurso if it really is 25ft!as per msw
.... anyone here for the free accommodation on the gold coast? Thats realistically where I want to go.
Central coast man..... great waves far enough away from sydney, good choice reefs, beachies and epic points when the light up. Busy like everywhere in aus, with 11yr old super groms padding in to every wave going- but there are tons of mid week waves cool..ish locals and good weather.
Central coast man..... great waves far enough away from sydney, good choice reefs, beachies and epic points when the light up. Busy like everywhere in aus, with 11yr old super groms padding in to every wave going- but there are tons of mid week waves cool..ish locals and good weather.
:agree:
Not a surfer myself but all the surfers I know down here (Victorian surf coast area) spend time up on that coast at every possible chance.
I surf and snowboard regular and am left footed.
Write left handed and throw left handed but do (almost) everything else righthanded.
I actually enjoy the difference between surfing front and backhand. Backhand is definitely harder, but satisfying to do.
Can't snowboard switch very well at all, although I suspect my setup is partially to blame.
Andy Irons died today, missed his heats in Puerto due to a fever, died in Dallas en route back to Hawaii. RIP
:'(
checking the forecast for the weekend. YYFY cant fucking wait.
east coasters are going to be smiling hopefully.
Nevermind the weekend, check the storm that's gonna hit Monday... 14.5ft swell with direct offshores on the ND coast. Good job I'm away on training coz if that does hit, it's gonna be ridiculous!checking the forecast for the weekend. YYFY cant fucking wait.
east coasters are going to be smiling hopefully.
Don't fucking jinx it!
oh dear thought i had this embedding of photos wired...
clm are you back from your trip yet?Yeah, was back for start of school year (funny that). It was awesome. To be honest i had my best surfing in oz though did catch one riduculously long ride in indo. By the time i was in indo i was getting font elbow and font shoulders from all the paddling. Not used to the long paddles to the reefs and the massive currents to fight to stay at the shoulder. Quite intimidating at times. Right shoulder still crunchy!
You not in Morocco then?Most of my stuff is...
Anyone wearing a hood yet?/quote]
As of last session, albeit in an on/off/on/off/on/off/off kind of way
Pull back = back of the queue in our group. Followed by ridicule for the rest of the session.
Dave might be along to add his two penneth.
Chris what's the difference between a "medium" and "large" plug.
Chris what's the difference between a "medium" and "large" plug.
What do you think of this?
Surftech
ill go pick it up and just keep going to Aberdeen if its a good day Chris. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Fully on down here! and I am on a boogie board with a go pro stuck to my head!!!on the downside i'm missing cornish perfection.
Fully on down here! and I am on a boogie board with a go pro stuck to my head!!!
I agree with SA Chris, tomorrow will be on record as being especially shite. Today was only slightly better, but still not worth getting wet for.Got some really good Go Kart footage with one of these!!!
I think you better check your wind maps philo as if your on the east coast you are going to be disapointed tomorrow and for all of next week. Plenty of swell but the winds are about as wrong as they could get.
You posted before i did so i will add. The winds do look light in the morning so you may get a wave, however they are straight out of the east. It maybe surfable but special it will not.
I am a bit picky with what i surf in mind but i wont be setting my alarm.
Remember who you are dealing with.....
Somewhere further south was on yesterday. Bbbbrrrrrrrrr...
(http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=196087)
Looks nice. Must be a different world down there as it looks like your hoodless.
Similar on east coast on fri. Nice little barrelling lefts on a sandbar nine out of ten were closeouts though.
We would call that about one to two foot though. South coast must be full of midgets if that's overhead.
Its a good 10 mins walk through shin deep snow to get there so feet are pretty cold before you start.strewth you northerners are hard. Just about to get into the winter suit down here
Its a good 10 mins walk through shin deep snow to get there so feet are pretty cold before you start.strewth you northerners are hard. Just about to get into the winter suit down here
Some crackers on =http://magicseaweed.com/Billabong-Mid-Year-XXL-Content/2986/here (http://=http://magicseaweed.com/Billabong-Mid-Year-XXL-Content/2986/here). Mid year round up of the XXL... Shipsterns has to be the scariest maddest thing. How people can jump off that ledge which is bigger than most of the bigger waves we surf I'l never know. Laurie Towner' ballsy paddle in at Cloudbreak is also :bow:
Burliegh Heads?
Thoughts on north devon monday/tuesday?:-\ Been watching the forecast carefully. Might be OK.. The small swell might get blown out by the easterlies. It's really touch and go at the moment, things'll be more certain by Sunday evening.
Good period/ok winds, small swell though
well your loss down there is the north east gain. Today has been the best, cleanest day in seaburn i've had this year. perfect 5ft with offshore wind, beautiful long rides.
Got in at 9, got out at 1. Off topic but do seals bite? Two seals were right next to me and my mate for about an hour this morning, just chilling a couple of metres away. Should I be more worried about them trying to elope with me or do they enjoy using their big teeth?
any of you lot manage to play out today? Sunderland outside of the pier was firing this morning, clean long barrels overhead. Unexpected ray of sunshine in what looked to be a gloomy piece of shit of a day. Only 4 people in and set after set of clean waves. Im still shakey when pitted as the super steep walls make my board rock and it kicks sideways alot. Think i need some new fins, any suggestions for a 6'3 quad setup?
Sounds great Philo. To answer your question, it's more likely to be your board's rail and tail shape as much as the fins. Your riding a wide quad template right? Like mine it's just not going to hold a steep line as well as a drawn out pin or tight squash. Are your fins LokBox? If so, you could set the front and back fins on each side wider apart which wil make the tail less loose.
Dont get me wrong I wouldn't want to be there but dont think that counts as a six wave hold down, as I understand it you have to actually be held down? ;)Indeed he's managing to get a lung full of air in between :spank: So technically not a six wave hold down just taking six on the head looks like a walk in the park :o
Hmmmm... There is this place, well off the beaten track, not in any guidebooks,is this a devonshire venue?
Nope.Hmmmm... There is this place, well off the beaten track, not in any guidebooks,is this a devonshire venue?
as sad as it is, a surf shop shutting down south, means a bit of a sale.
http://loose-fit.co.uk (http://loose-fit.co.uk)
not sure what the craic would be with returns..
For forehand snaps, generate speed, bottom turn, head up to the lip, compress into the snap (bend your legs), straighten out of it, the important bit though is when you rotate, lead with your back arm and bring it across infront of your face pointing your hand to where you wish to go, everything just follows, thwack! Good times. 8)Further west was also nice yesterday lunchtime :-)
this is my source of weakness now, outrunning the wave and cutting back up the top of the wave. To me i think the key is the slight crouch out of the end to get the power back down the wave - many times my arm flailing and pointing back down the wave leaves me over the top of it when I don't get the power back with a good lean on the forward knee. (i cant fully snap but its more of a pivot)
Im also focusing on going over the top of sectioned out waves rather than going around them - smashing the lip of the wave/broken white water to go over it as my local beach break seems to section quite often.
On a bit of a NNFN i was so blind on a rocky hidden pocket spot the other day I managed to mangle the nose of my mal that I rarely surf. Its pretty much a 7'2 log and fun to play around with on 3ft waves etc. Hit a rock and went head over heels. GME et al, what do you surf in the sub 5ft (If you go out at all) as mentioned before I still want a old fish
aye i meant face, 5 ft wedges we get up here messy beach breaks usually
I was in the vets.
I think Brittany coast would be somewhat more reliable than UK east coast, although it will lose the Northern Atlantic due to the British Isles swell shadow. Not to say it will be great though.
Fatdoc, it may be worth browsing Stormrider's Guide to Europe next time you are passing Waterstone's; wealth of information there. I think the topless bodyboarder only features in the old edition.
I think Brittany coast would be somewhat more reliable than UK east coast, although it will lose the Northern Atlantic due to the British Isles swell shadow. Not to say it will be great though.
Fatdoc, it may be worth browsing Stormrider's Guide to Europe next time you are passing Waterstone's; wealth of information there. I think the topless bodyboarder only features in the old edition.
cheers... getting a copy off Norton.
NICE...
I'll factor that it for sure.
Nice is in the south east of France, not Brittany.and your link was added 4 posts up.
We go in the van and usually stay at Cap d l homy. http://www.camping-cap.com/english/index.htm. (http://www.camping-cap.com/english/index.htm.)Ah someone else who's been to Cap dl Homy! We came across it by chance on a round Europe trip a few years back and stayed a week, then went back again last year. The municipal site is great as you say and you pay municipal rates rather the private site rates. It's also much cheaper in a van as they put you in the van part near the entrance, still only 2mins walk to the showers and washing up sinks with hot water..
I was told about it by a german climber friend. The first time i went was late may and we were the only non germans on the site, its a bit more french in the summer. It ticked all the boxes for my other half as the toilets and showers are all clean and not the french type.
Waves are not as good as hossegor but still fun. I would go to hossegor on a surf trip but when the family is in tow homy is perfect.
seems like it's 31 hours on the ferry... could have read that wrong. for 14 nights away, and if the roads are good I can drive 8 hours from St Malo no bother.. may be better for the short ferry? as there is less time total travelling??
I'm not sure. keen for opinion... thanks... getting excited by the ferry being a mini cruise mind! I will need a cabin or two though :( ( four kids) = a load of cash... ( website asking me to phone for quotes, never a good sign!)
While you lot have all been freezing we've all been baking in 40 degree heat for the past week. Thankfully yesterday brought a small but clean swell to keep everyone cool (all the shots from Manly)
so why werent you in the water?
what about here for my grandes vacances en famille holiday in august?
http://www.beachwizard.com/beach.asp?country=France&beachid=6980 (http://www.beachwizard.com/beach.asp?country=France&beachid=6980)
NEV... R.I.P!
Oh also, bargain of the day?
http://store.magicseaweed.com/Xcel-Mens-5mm-X-Flex-2010/Item/7735/ (http://store.magicseaweed.com/Xcel-Mens-5mm-X-Flex-2010/Item/7735/)
Shipsterns Christmas Eve (http://vimeo.com/18356216)Strewth, Dave, the guys an Aussie. Of course he's drinking beer while surfing..... :beer1:
Mean't to post this a while ago. Good to see santa finding time out from his delivery run to catch a wave or two...and am I mistaken or is there one guy swigging on a drink can?
Actually, this vids better:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCHeUk4Iqwg&feature=player_embedded#at=224 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCHeUk4Iqwg&feature=player_embedded#at=224)
I saw that trailer the other day - looks mental. Apparently that one is in Northern Spain somewhere. What 'it' is I have no idea though.
The lack of swell this year has almost been a blessing for me as work commitments would have meant missing a lot of sessions.Lack of swell?? Sounds like the NE hasn't been too lucky, after a long flat spell it has been pumpin here for weeks on end and the winter reefs have sparked. Ireland has been getting some huge swells. I guess the swell window is quite small for you and if the storms don't track North far enough you all miss out.
Flatness gets you down but missing good surf is about as much fun as a kick in the balls.
I guess the swell window is quite small for you and if the storms don't track North far enough you all miss out.
off work today, managed to score some clean waist high waves inside the pier wall. My mate got out and took a couple of photos, should be a shit surfing photo section somewhere but here goes:
caught inside
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/philoo/022.jpg)
I thought that. Compared to some of the poundings I've taken on the head.
off work today, managed to score some clean waist high waves inside the pier wall. My mate got out and took a couple of photos, should be a shit surfing photo section somewhere but here goes:
caught inside
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/philoo/022.jpg)
Caught inside doesn't look that catstrophic there to be honest!
Down Falmouth/area on Saturday for a week.Perranathuoe round the corner is nice and a bit quieter/mellower than Praa. Judging by the swell forecast and S/SW winds it would be worth trying porthmeor in st.ives, gwithian (anywhere from godrevy down to the rivermouth, depending on the swell size and wind direction). Plus there's some primo bouldering at the top end of la plage.. well the same goes for Porthmeor actually!
Surfed Praa but not many other spots in the vicinity - recommendations?
Not interested in Porthleven. I'm not good enough.
Cheers
Surfed Praa but not many other spots in the vicinity - recommendations?Here's the predictions for Gwenvor.
Not knocking you, just odd to see it empty.Not taken as a knock I know from experience when I'm in too deep, run away... run away!. :) You're right it is very odd to see Puts empty especially when the wind is from the south as it was on this day. Plenty of folks in the car park but no takers in the water. The piccies just don't do justice to the size and shiftiness of it all.
Do you mean 6-8ft faces, or 6-8ft swell (12-16ft faces)? Still confuses me.
Guessing 12-16ft from the amount of white water (i.e.how far out their breaking)?
More wave garden here
http://vimeo.com/wavegarden/videos (http://vimeo.com/wavegarden/videos)
Board Culture 1 day ago
Yes, this coming summer they will have shoulder high waves :)
looks sweet though, anyone got a spare acre? Do you think it will spark a artificial wave culture like the indoor scene of climbing? If you can get a perfect wave then your not going to drive an hour to the beach to get some shitty inconsistent swell are you?Quote
I'm not gonna drive an hour to the beach for some shitty inconsistent swell coz it's 10 mins away :P Nor would I drive for 10 mins for some shitty inconsistent swell, at least not deliberately anyway. Nor would drive however far to, presumably pay good money, to surf an artificial wave. It is worth waiting for the a slice of perfection served up the natural way and I would suggest that it is much more fun....
Maybe I could be swayed during a prolonged flat spell but being as we are currently spoiled for choice I couldn't think of anything worse than surfing a piddle artificial wave.
Been pumpin all year, not one day out of the water so far!!! getting a bit large on the odd occasion.Trained for a comp (bouldering) first three weeks in Jan, won the comp :strongbench:
Anyone had a snugg suit made for themselves? Good to support the Brits if nowt else.
Could be house sitting in Bali for 6 weeks this summer. Any flights/surf beta greatly appreciated...
shit is that the bay just north of woolacombe?
Another amazing photo - N Devon wave breaking but no-one on it. :)Makes a refreshing change from the summer N Devon madness.. In the week, in the winter, when most are at work, there aren't any tourists and the waves are pumping, it is still possible to find empty perferction even at the best known spots. Now you know why the 'locals' can be so grumpy at Croyde, they get used to this and then suddenly from Easter onwards all these random folk appear and start getting in the way.
Well...Pippa Harrison...
How to Measure (http://vimeo.com/9348526)
Anyone had a snugg suit made for themselves? Good to support the Brits if nowt else.
The whole innersection idea is pretty cool and would work for bouldering too without much difficulty. It involves individuals entering there own clips on a website which the viewers then vote on which clips are best. At the end of each year the best clips are re edited and stuck to gether on one dvd.
more goofer pr0n on the other channel:
those last two clips completely blew me away, incredible stuff. Nice one for posting them
Not been out the water, like, 45/55 sessions so far this year!!! been well on the last week! start doing my beach lifeguard training this week!!! fuckin gnarly! can only just about swim!
Week long swell windo with
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/21791864" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/21791864">Clay Marzo - The Comeback</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/findyourflow">Heavy Mayo</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
I actually don't give a shit though to be honest.
Now if only a deadly virus that only effected bodyboarders would break out my trip would be perfect.
good when its small for the regulars but not on your back hand
Not really sheffield / stanage, more like sheffield / dartmoor, its a solid three hours drive from here, with loads of lovely breaks along the way which suit me better; I don't think I am good enough for it and would probably get demolished.
http://www.oneill.com/cwc/Live.html (http://www.oneill.com/cwc/Live.html)
Its on again and even better, the pros have sussed the wave out now so getting better barrels.
Quality short video of G-Land and Padang, especially when he loses it in the barrel:
Tales from the Tube (http://vimeo.com/22468968)
Take your spring suit...
Anyone tried the Patagucci ones yet? Spiel sounds impressive...
Board suggestions for [in Stormrider but I'd call it sensitive and this forum shows high on Google so I'd consider editing] reef please.
Theres a big swell been hitting Sydneys beaches over the last 24 hours
Pics from the local rag here (http://www.smh.com.au/photogallery/environment/weather/raging-surf-in-sydney-20110503-1e65e.html?selectedImage=0)
Unfortunately I only just found out so no pics of my own :furious: :wall:
Hi Guys
I'm probably heading to Florida for a conference in June. I'd like to get a weeks surfing in but Florida looks rubbish, thinking of bailing to Mexico or Nicaragua (or somewhere else in central america) but will only have a week, anyone got any thoughts/recommendations on somewhere thats easily accessible, fairly cheap and likely to be quiet? I hate the surf camp thing but thinking it may be the best option for such a short trip.
Really I'm trying to work out if I should save my money for a trip later in the year or make the most of this opportunity!
Shipsterns has been scarier than usual this week apparently. Saw some really frightening footage on the news here earlier this evening and there's some footage uploaded onto Surfline:
http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/biggest-shipsterns-ever_55884 (http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/biggest-shipsterns-ever_55884)
I'm going to be in France for the second two weeks in August, I know its the worst possible
Does anyone have any recommendations for surf spots/areas with a good chance of having a wave and ideally not too many people? I believe Hossegor probably has the best chance of a wave but will be packed.
Would also like recommendations for a nice simple campsite close to the beach and surf, in a picturesque area.
Finally, will i need a shorty wetsuit or will boardies and a thermal rashie be fine?
It's got big again. New southerly swell competing with the dying east swell from yesterday.
Still great waves but punishing. Spent half hour paddling to get out , nearly gave up but two others next to me which brought a bit of competition into it. Eventually got out back to six to eight foot barrels.
Sat scared shitless for fifteen mins before I found myself in the spot with ten pairs of eyes staring at me testing my balls. I went and got a screamer. Two good turns and pull into a nice pit. As usual with my barrel riding it all went wrong from there and I got flogged. Still nice to get a few seconds of glory.
Another ten mins of hard paddling gets me out back again sat on my board for a breather when the biggest set of the day arrives. All caught inside.
Duck dive goes all wrong and I feel the delightful feeling of my board pulling at my leg until ping. Fir the First time in my life I snap a leash 400 meters out in big surf.
Long swim, crawl, drowning follows until I reach the beach fucked. Boards been rescued by someone on the beach so I head home to lick my wounds.
One and a half hours of hell for fifteen seconds of glory.
God I love surfing.
Note to self: On big days - don't surf to exhaustion, always have some beans left just incase... Brush up your swimming skills in bigger surf!
Love nights like this - seeing any of the swell chris?
Kids surf again for me,my 10 year old has now progressed from a 7`4" bic to a 5` 9" al merrick flyer. I bet him 5 and the board (picked it up for 90) that he couldnt paddle into a wave on it and stand up, three goes laetr i was 5 down and less a board.
Due to the kids surfing i have done what i always claimed i never would and bought a longboard, it means i can surf with them when its small rather than just swimming around with them. have not seen it yet and all i know is is 180 and 9 foot long.
If its shit i can always cut it in two and makee a couple of kids boards.
can't wait till I can take the boy surfing (assuming he'll want to..)
There's an amazing clip of Ryan whatisname doing the rounds on Facebook from Cloudbreak on Wednesday.
If you want to paddle surely a canoe would be more practical
Well the charts are showing some massive surf today in excess of 8ft (double overhead) with a 10 second period this is looking to be the most powerful swell we've seen in the last year with first light seeing the swell max out. Sadly even if we have lighter winds early on (unlikely) the tiny tides will stop the point breaks that need big high and low's from working so once again it looks like South Bay will be the best option to hide from the size and winds. Although the most likely wind direction will be straight Northerly following the swell, we might get lucky and see some brief periods of NW which is cross offshore this might open up a few other spots, fingers crossed...
S E Australia was hit by huge swells two weekends ago, up to 18 metres down around Southern Tasmania (Shipstern) on a couple of days and up to 8 metres at our most famous local breaks here in Victoria (Bell's Beach and Johanna) - with offshore winds as well! I've got a supplier at work who's pretty useful on a board and he's nursing some nasty bruises and mourning the loss of his favourite board after picking the wrong wave to catch earlier on the day this footage was taken.
S E Australia was hit by huge swells two weekends ago, up to 18 metres down around Southern Tasmania (Shipstern) on a couple of days and up to 8 metres at our most famous local breaks here in Victoria (Bell's Beach and Johanna) - with offshore winds as well! I've got a supplier at work who's pretty useful on a board and he's nursing some nasty bruises and mourning the loss of his favourite board after picking the wrong wave to catch earlier on the day this footage was taken.
"It's the hundred year storm"
"We'll get him when he comes back in"
"He's not coming back"
100% Utah
young, dumb and full of come, you're a real blue flame special arnt you son?
its not a tragedy to die doing what you love
I really love this groundrush shit
I bet you lied to me about your parents
they are pulling out a fucking arsenal
I know that flm so well you can start it at any point... and I can tell you the next line :punk:
Biggest swell since winter hits NE the weekend we break up for 6 weeks. And it's light offshore onMONDAY!WEDNESDAY
Well this weekend has to be one of the most over hyped swells ever and one that produced little. I am surprised that MSW didn't crash due to the no. of people logging onto it.
I have never seen as many vans up my way before, all dossing in the farmers fields, tents up everywhere and one prick from Cardiff even thought it was a good idea to drive through the field to park closer to the reef.
Sat and Sunday were pretty much blown out other than the sheltered spots but the swell wasn't good enough to get them working properly, they were surfable but far from good. I suspect south bay was rammed.
Monday was better before the wind got up, but by 4.30 am there were already 20 people in the water up here. Was a bit lumpy 4-5 ft but the neap tides stopped everything working properly, nice to get into some head and half waves with grunt but nothing like it was hyped to be. By 8am the wind got up and turn everything into mush.
Estimating the number of vans from cornwall and Devon (6), adding in the three from wales, one from Brighton, two from Leeds and five from newcastle i would guess well over 10000 miles worth of diesel was used for around an average of 10 good waves each just on the spot I surf. Round about 10 per wave.
Estimating the number of vans from cornwall and Devon (6), adding in the three from wales, one from Brighton, two from Leeds and five from newcastle i would guess well over 10000 miles worth of diesel was used for around an average of 10 good waves each just on the spot I surf. Round about 10 per wave.
sounds nice, lots of volume in the nose? how wide is it?
they saw 6-8ft at 10 secs, cancelled work, the wife, the kids and the dogs vet appointment, text there mates, twittered there excitement, posted on a few chat rooms then jumped in there vans and joined the convoy to disappointment.
"Wow look at all those stars!"
some welsh lad said that its 10x worse where he was from
http://www.billabongpro.com/tahiti11/live-gb/ (http://www.billabongpro.com/tahiti11/live-gb/) friday night in for thischeers for that... friday night sorted. Not quite the scale of my lunchtime surf but can't complain...
That little bad girl of a storm producing waves for the pros is still forecast to swing back our way early next week and then on up to you later in the week.
Epic waves from Morroco to Whitby
That little bad girl of a storm producing waves for the pros is still forecast to swing back our way early next week and then on up to you later in the week.
accompanied by howling onshore winds.. :-(
Granticus - you heading to the Fish Fry next weekend at Crackington? camping with the family if it's reasonable weather
Looks good. Having waves when the sun is actually shining is an advantage Oz has over Scotland.
same over here, both Cariad and Hells mouth peeling beautifully......worth all the sessions in substandard surf over the last two weeks just for one wave today. :2thumbsup:This I have never seen!
I don't think progressive would be a word i would have used to describe the board i had. A massive piece of plastic would be a better idea. Its gone back as i was lucky enough to have it on try before you buy.
there are waves for everyone other than true beginners. Nipussi, burgerworld and bikini lefts are like a really good day on the beaches here, not as heavy as Thurso east by a long shot. Britain really does have some heavy waves that are on a par to a lot over there so dont be put off. Plus they are like glass a lot of the time which, as we all know makes it so much easier to surf.
http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/live.cfm (http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/live.cfm)
Spoke too soon. Well, sort of. Hells mouth was waist to chest and totally mindless. I think my 'perfectly peeling' radar is set a little high after visiting currumbin, Byron, lennox and crescent head this summer.same over here, both Cariad and Hells mouth peeling beautifully......worth all the sessions in substandard surf over the last two weeks just for one wave today. :2thumbsup:This I have never seen!
You shittin me? I've got at least two surf guides from like...erm...waterstones or amazon or summat which name them both. It's hardly like that posts gonna make a difference.
Great conditions on the Lleyn at the 'secret spot' where the sand whistles today.
Great to hear that the NE has been getting some juice recently, very interesting to hear debate about naming 'secret' spots etc.. IMHO The thing about openly discussing and naming the more well known 'secrets' (particularly on t'interweb) is that more people that, perhaps, shouldn't be anywhere near them get to know about them and try to surf them
Good point, i just didnt understand his concern when the examples mentioned are in books, with photos, grid refs, access notes, conditions info etc etc. Secret?
I know where I'd normally be headed for and I won't be naming it.
No, no, you must feel free to discussSWCornish spots in as much detail as possible....
Who said secret? I'm saying no need to promote them further
You can both, get to fuck. Approx sod all here last week, next week looks the same.Here's a vid of said comp to give you taste of what we've been surfing down here in North Devon for the last week :P There's more on the way too.
Here's hoping the coverage of the comp is kept low key.
QuoteHere's hoping the coverage of the comp is kept low key.
You aren't helping with that!
Yeah, Stonehaven is going to be off the charts.:lol: Can't believe you just named it on this forum, there will be hell to pay!
Uhh...
Surfed there 20 years ago, when I was living in Whitley bay, wasn't so secret then; some guy in a pub told me about it...
WARNING! Posting may contain traces of irony, spoonerisms, sarcasm or other attempts at humour. Not suitable for consumption by foody muckers.
I might be wrong but I think Chris was being sarcastic (who'd av funk it?), Stonehaven is not a secret by any stretch and not likely to be on the UKPSTs hit list of the best waves in the UK.
I KNOW HE WAS BEING SARCASTIC
We all know he meant South Shields not Stonehaven ! :whistle: ;) :P :shrug:
do you need to tell everyone when your joking by inserting some funny faced type thingy every time you post.
Had hoped to have kicked this cold in to touch for this morning
Just seen this on the moon blog: http://www.moonclimbing.com/Bernhard-Fiedler- (http://www.moonclimbing.com/Bernhard-Fiedler-)-Log-Book-Entry-October-2011-n-1109.html
Already wanted to go surfing in Sri Lanka but this might provide an extra reason:
(http://www.moonclimbing.com/images/categories_desc/Shane/BerniFiedler/originals/pottuvilBoulderingSriLanka.jpg)
(http://www.moonclimbing.com/images/categories_desc/Shane/BerniFiedler/originals/srilankanBlocksFishermen.jpg)
In an effort to get out the logging rut for the winter, just got me a 2nd hand Campbell Bros Bonzer. At 7ft 2 it's probably a bit big for shortboard purists, but should be good for gutless Aberdeen waves.
Hopefully changing out log too. For something a bit heavier but more performance orientated.
All I need now is SOME FUCKING WAVES!
Tuesday looks like a maybe but no low tide during daylight.
the looser now has to catch a north sea wave in board shorts before the 20th Feb 2012. Not a pleasent experience as i have done it once.
I won our fantasy surfer league and the looser now has to catch a north sea wave in board shorts before the 20th Feb 2012. Not a pleasent experience as i have done it once.
To top it all Pipe pumped and gave me something to watch each evening.Yep! The pipe event was a brilliant watch, had me glued to the puta, was kind of gutted it was done and dusted in 3 days. Still the Volcom Pipe event that the locals use to qualify for the Pipe Masters is back in January and if it is anything like 2011 it will be all time too!
Costa Rica? Not been myself but everyone I know who was on the early stages of the learning curve who's been came back a miles better surfer and loved the place.
Morocco can a nightmare - had lots of mixed reports.
Portugal? Ericeira seems to have a nice variety of breaks? Northern Spain? South of France?
If Costa Rica is a bit out of your price range, I assume Cape Town would be? Which is a pity as it would be a great option.
granticus - you been in this week, all time waves down here! ;D
You logging pool time to keep fitness up?nope he's in the tanning studio drinking Bintang!
Pools irritate me too, but like climbing walls are a necessary evil.
I sometimes take my longboard out for a paddle on sunny flat days on the coast near our house. I make sure no-one sees me walking down with it though, and wouldn't do it at a beach where anyone would see me, as I would either get daft questions or feel a bit daft dappling out on a flat day. I think on inland waters I would feel silly.
Pools irritate me. Anyone ever considered doing some long paddle on inland water just for fitness? Or would I look silly?
Pools irritate me too, but like climbing walls are a necessary evil.
I sometimes take my longboard out for a paddle on sunny flat days on the coast near our house. I make sure no-one sees me walking down with it though, and wouldn't do it at a beach where anyone would see me, as I would either get daft questions or feel a bit daft dappling out on a flat day. I think on inland waters I would feel silly.
Not a fan of pool training either, just find it tedious. Seem to do OK (surf fitness wise) just getting in the water when there's the opportunity and the waves are half decent. I guess the probability of half decent waves throughout the year is higher here than east side though. When I do surf, I'm also prone to surfing until I'm beasted and then surfing some more :bounce: which probably helps with the fitness.
Mrs Granticus has booked a posh hotel in Newquay for us this weekend to reward me for being a good dad :ang:
Not really sure what to expect as I've always avoided the place but I'm assured that I am 'allowed' to surf in the mornings and should be able to roll out of bed into a wetsuit straight to the beach. Forecast is looking strong. I'm assuming things aren't gonna be any worse than Croyde on a busy day but if anyone has any beta (other than 'go somewhere else') would be appreciated.
I'm assuming things aren't gonna be any worse than Croyde on a busy day but if anyone has any beta (other than 'go somewhere else') would be appreciated.
And Nigel Semmens dropping in on you. Since he owns the beach(?).:wank: I can imagine that being 'surf city' UK that Newquay attracts some oversized egos and shitty attitudes. Which is why I've never bothered before.
Name that wave (joke).Jesuschrist!!! Those are great waves!!! Pipeline-esque!!!
http://magicseaweed.com/Britains-Coldest-Waves-Content/3706/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Britains-Coldest-Waves-Content/3706/)
Low-tide sessions have been very solid given the predicted swell heights.
Low-tide sessions have been very solid given the predicted swell heights.At Croyde on Saturday. Mid morning on the dropping tide was fun- 3ft or so. Put the tent up and headed back just after low only to received a sound thrashing on the paddle out- doubled in size. Did one to Puts before I broke something.
Why?
very good.Why?
He can't remember...
very good.Why?
He can't remember...
Andy, have you read the economics/we're all doomed thread? Philo's posts on there should enlighten you.
Isn't that where gme was last month?
Blown highlights. Back around.
Blown highlights. Back around.
Yawn. Not why I posted it.
When Fergal Smith dropped in on a monster barrel two miles off the coast of Perth in Western Australia, he little realised he was also dropping in on a monster of another kind. For as he powered down the face of the 20-plus-foot wave, lurking there just a few feet from him was a 500-pound Great White Shark. Smith didnt even realise how close he had come to an encounter with one of the oceans deadliest predators.
Nice, where are you Granticus?
Getting pysched for Friday looking at the cheeky little low that is approaching. Day off work, current swell prediction and wind direction is very favourable for somewhere nice that no one goes to or knows about.
A very well kept secret and might not even be in N.Devon or is it???!!Getting pysched for Friday looking at the cheeky little low that is approaching. Day off work, current swell prediction and wind direction is very favourable for somewhere nice that no one goes to or knows about.
must be a well kept secret if it works on a westerly in N. Devon! i reckon tomorrow is going to be the better day wind wise..
Granticus - talking of North Devon.. had a session at Hartland a couple of weeks back, thought all the problems on the Clinical Edge block were pretty soft for 7B, non ? (i.e. I got up two of them.. assuming I was doing them right)
If you did Clinical Edge, I'd say that was pretty soft if you get your feet sorted. I'm also presuming you did Me Julie (named after my wife!) which (as is not mentioned in Dave Westlife's guide) is a proper SIT START (ie. no crouching, squating, pushing of the floor with the other hand etc...) You pull off your bum on side pulls just right of CE, with feet on poor smears... It's not so soft for the grade if done properly. If you did it this way and found it soft, I am impressed :bow:to be honest i think i did CE right and that took me 10-15 goes so felt about right for 7a ish. The other one I did was Egg Nishna but think i probably did it wrong. Started LH sidepull, RH big flatty, RH up to small crimp, then LH to jug then top
If you did Clinical Edge, I'd say that was pretty soft if you get your feet sorted. I'm also presuming you did Me Julie (named after my wife!) which (as is not mentioned in Dave Westlife's guide) is a proper SIT START (ie. no crouching, squating, pushing of the floor with the other hand etc...) You pull off your bum on side pulls just right of CE, with feet on poor smears... It's not so soft for the grade if done properly. If you did it this way and found it soft, I am impressed :bow:to be honest i think i did CE right and that took me 10-15 goes so felt about right for 7a ish. The other one I did was Egg Nishna but think i probably did it wrong. Started LH sidepull, RH big flatty, RH up to small crimp, then LH to jug then top
couldn't do Me Julie ;) for this I was starting with the above LH sidepull for the RH to start and then another sidepull for LH about 1.5ft in from CE arete ?
If you did Clinical Edge, I'd say that was pretty soft if you get your feet sorted. I'm also presuming you did Me Julie (named after my wife!) which (as is not mentioned in Dave Westlife's guide) is a proper SIT START (ie. no crouching, squating, pushing of the floor with the other hand etc...) You pull off your bum on side pulls just right of CE, with feet on poor smears... It's not so soft for the grade if done properly. If you did it this way and found it soft, I am impressed :bow:to be honest i think i did CE right and that took me 10-15 goes so felt about right for 7a ish. The other one I did was Egg Nishna but think i probably did it wrong. Started LH sidepull, RH big flatty, RH up to small crimp, then LH to jug then top
couldn't do Me Julie ;) for this I was starting with the above LH sidepull for the RH to start and then another sidepull for LH about 1.5ft in from CE arete ?
I stayed up until 1am to watch the Fiji pro only for them to cancel after two heats. It was massive and a bit bumpy but they should have kept it running. Cleaned up later so i guess they made a wrong decision.Did the same - stayed up for 2 heats... went to bed and missed this :jaw: http://www.volcomfijipro.com/video/day-3-highlights-volcom-fiji-pro-2012/ (http://www.volcomfijipro.com/video/day-3-highlights-volcom-fiji-pro-2012/)
Dont know how to embed a picture from facebook but this is what they missed later.
http://www.connect.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150878056992058&set=a.10150102976342058.276930.81269622057&type=1&ref=nf (http://www.connect.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150878056992058&set=a.10150102976342058.276930.81269622057&type=1&ref=nf)
Right on cue.. A similar storm system to this time last week arrives on the same day, it seems the jet stream is favourable for surfing SW sheltered spots this year. :great:
Anyone used/owns one of these?
http://store.magicseaweed.com/product.php?productId=5548 (http://store.magicseaweed.com/product.php?productId=5548)
It's a Rusty 'Dwart' 5'10"
I'm 5'6", 60-65 kg going from a 6'4" fish, progressive beginner/ intermediate surfer based in N.Wales.
And please lets not start a custom V's off the peg argument, when I know exactly what I want (with a little soul) I'll pay somebody to make it.
Cheers
What's your ability level Grantis?:ninja: Never really considered what level I am, i can make a surfboard go where I want it to, I can hack out a decent turn now and then, I can ride steeper more powerful waves to a fair size..... but then again I can also fall off, i can do crap turns and I can get pile drived into the sand at will..
http://www.radiotimes.com/programme/rsfw6/surfing-special-the-endless-winter (http://www.radiotimes.com/programme/rsfw6/surfing-special-the-endless-winter)
Surfing on C4 this week and next. No idea if it will be any good.
Unfortunately I'm not allowed more than an hour from Sheffield currently. #preggerswife
Sincerely hope everyone got some and gets even more... :bounce:
Autumn has been a pretty dire affair so far as surfing goes, have been training pretty hard for a bouldering trip which has kept things busy whilst the surf has been poo. However, Sunday was just one of those epic days you dream of, absolutely pumping it's nut off on all the beaches, deep ground swell with perfect wind. High tide in the morning at Croyde was like a sand bottom left point draining right across the bay, low tide met the peak of the swell it was meaty but not too hard to surf if you picked the right ones. Days like this don't happen too often, lucky to be around to the make the most this time...
(http://b.msw.ms/photoLab/fullWidth/277779.jpg)
That looks fucking mint, fair size too! Brilliant. Special day eh?!
Flat as a mill pond today, here's the left point I was banging on about. Yes it is Croyde!wow - I've never seen Croyde looking like that! that's a big olde duck dive if you get caught
http://surferspath.mpora.com/features/10-reasons-surfing-sucks-agree-to-disagree-tsp94.html (http://surferspath.mpora.com/features/10-reasons-surfing-sucks-agree-to-disagree-tsp94.html)
Can't argue.
There's a standing wave like this in the centre of Munich. Has a fully fledged surf scene around it and the locals make special boards to ride it.
When we went to Jackson Hole there were some surfboards in the corner of one of the ski hire shops, and when I asked the guys said there were some great river waves round there they rode in the summer.
Or you can just get a 10ft barge like your brother.Tried this approach today as the waves were crap - didn't like it, longer rides but seemed to miss 2/3 of the waves i went for. Switched back to the 7' Egg i've hired the past few trips after an hour or so and had far more fun on that.
Proper skimboarding where you pump out to ride real waves are much harder to come by and you need a steeply shelving beach which has a clean break close to shore and there aren't very many of them with a good wet run in,plus wetsuits make things more difficult.
I'm not sure if this link works but this gives a good idea of what some of our shores might have in store. Refracted waves like The Wedge http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2sUbVwxg7B0&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D2sUbVwxg7B0 (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2sUbVwxg7B0&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D2sUbVwxg7B0)
steeply shelving beach which has a clean break close to shorebeaches would be great
A quick googling says there are one or two dedicated skimboarding sites, might be a useful source?You would have thought....
That you in pic 3? Goof.
Chris, I think gav's on number 5. It's nice for me to not have to ask permission from anyone this time. I'll need to get in the gym and the pool to prepare.
Thinking of making a trip down the Llyn this weekend, with the impending doom forecast for sun. Strange one I think, was thinking might be able to get away with surfing some spots on the north coast that never get surfed..? Huge huge swell height but relatively short period, and super windy, dont know what do people think is going to happen :worms:
I wonder what peak that is in the background?
Don't know, no backlink! :)
Quick googling of Alaska Coastal Range reveals; Mt St Elias 18000ft.
certainly is.. our local beach cafe has no windows left and a kitchen full of seaweed :oLava bread is on the specials board is it?
I'm sure given a lottery win I could at least ride it there when small...
Thinking of getting some Patagonia R4 boots as me feet are already cold in my Alder Plasma 7mm's after a couple of hours at the mo....had frost nip on me toes before so think my feet feel the cold. I think the Alders may just be on the big side and admittedly this could be a contributing factor.I've got a pair of the Alder Plasmas 7s and think they are brilliant, I can surf North Sea in Dec / Jan / Feb and my feet are starting to get cold after 2 - 3 hours. Might just be fit. No idea on Patagonia boots, sorry.
Wondering if anyone has any experience of these boots as they don't seem to get by good reviews. Also any alternatives people with similar cold feet would recommend?
Thinking of getting some Patagonia R4 boots
By season three they are not worth wearing so i give them away.
Wednesday afternoon. The storm is raging now with wind between 80 and 105 mph. Several trees are down and there is a lot of branches and other debris on the roads. I managed to snag this bit of film to show what the sea (close in and protected) looks like in a force 11 -12.https://www.facebook.com/pages/West-Coast-Surf-Shop/201563109294 (https://www.facebook.com/pages/West-Coast-Surf-Shop/201563109294)
QuoteArkem? I never managed to figure out what went where on that arete.Yep! That's the one.. Bum Start, left hand on pinch right in crack thing with thumb over top of crystal, right foot on low edge under crack, left heel on low slopey edge around arete, pull on slap up with left to fat sloper, bring right foot up to little crystal foothold... Etc..
Good session, no luck with the tooth.
:clap2:seen it before but it's pretty inspiring eh
good on him
Sounds like a good trip. Plus aurora! Did you go up and back on the east side? Too knackered for bouldering?Yeah up/back on the east side, after surf Mon morning just wanted to take quickest route back (still 16hrs!). Had a play on the bloc at Torrisdale (had to paddle across the river to get there) but wasn't anything special. Also checked Farr bouldering but the swell was so macking there that the 'non-tidal' ledge was being washed so no go.
Try outer hebs next time. Best wave quality / crowd ratio in Europe I reckon.
Your last comment about crowds is probably the reason why us northerners get pissed off with groups coming up from Cornwall. 15 people IS busy, especially on the reefs and they wont handle many more people. When pasties turn up they just think is quite so all paddle straight in.Yes fair point but to be fair whenever there were more than 6-7 people on a break we left it and moved on, plus when we did go in we made sure we didn't all paddle out at once and always gave way to folk already on it.
If you remember its not Cornwall and that 15 is a crowd you will get on fine up here and Scotland.
And re the Hebs i disagree with Chris about the surf, its much better on the north coast, more consistent and with better options for the wind. I have been to the Hebs a few times and its never lived up to the hype yet. Too wild and windy. Amazing place though but if your wanting to surf hit the North.
Your last comment about crowds is probably the reason why us northerners get pissed off with groups coming up from Cornwall. 15 people IS busy, especially on the reefs and they wont handle many more people. When pasties turn up they just think is quite so all paddle straight in.Yes fair point but to be fair whenever there were more than 6-7 people on a break we left it and moved on, plus when we did go in we made sure we didn't all paddle out at once and always gave way to folk already on it.
If you remember its not Cornwall and that 15 is a crowd you will get on fine up here and Scotland.
Sorry Ben i didnt intend to come over critical of you. I was more commenting on how its easy for people from the SW to think its quiet up north as you are all used to the zoo like waves in the SW.
My point was more an observation of how quiet these waves are, we never surfed with more than 2-3 other people in the water even on a sunny easter weekend with pumping waves
Sounds like a good trip. Plus aurora! Did you go up and back on the east side? Too knackered for bouldering?
Try outer hebs next time. Best wave quality / crowd ratio in Europe I reckon.
many thanks gme - plus it seems to have a large bloc sat out the back in the dunes, bonus(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/johnwjohnw/100_0419.jpg)
Newquay is easily avoided, plenty of other beaches get good surf and have hire stuff available; Croyde, Bude, Sennen, etc etc etc. In fact hard to throw a stick in the SW and not hit a surf school. Can combine it wit h a bit of climbing too, just bear in mind skin gets soft in the sea, and "gritrash" stings like buggery in salt water. Septemeber is a good time too, the mob has gone home after summer, but often good waves, and water not yet too cold.cheers, out of those (as I said I'm a complete novice) which would you recommend for an intro, would prefer it to be not too busy too.
out of those (as I said I'm a complete novice) which would you recommend for an intro, would prefer it to be not too busy too.
Oh crap. You mean I've got to be able to swim too? ;)
You can try, but I'm not sure it's buoyant enough. A polystyrene float is probably better.
Also heed Hong Kong Stueys warning from a few pages back. This surfing shit is addictive.
getting to the age where I need to try surfing.
INT. DAY. SOCAL SURF SHOPFBI AGENT JOHNNY UTAH (Keanu Reeves) is purchasing a garish, first-timer surfboard from a snotty but well-meaning SURF SHOP KID who appears to be seven years old.
Surf Shop Kid: Hey man, a lot of guys your age are learning to surf. It's cool. There's nothing wrong with it.
FBI Agent Johnny Utah: I'm 25!
Surf Shop Kid: That's what I'm saying. It's never too late. Hope you stick with it. Surfing's the source, man. Can change your life. Swear to god
any good books with fundamentals understanding oceans etc would be great
http://vimeo.com/m/103082729 (http://vimeo.com/m/103082729)
Just saw this on surfermag. First wave at 1.15 is mind blowing.
any good books with fundamentals understanding oceans etc would be great
The Stormrider Guides have a good intro at the front, but if you want to go deeper, I recommend.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surf-Science-Introduction-Waves-Surfing/dp/0906720362 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surf-Science-Introduction-Waves-Surfing/dp/0906720362)
or a bit more detail
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surfers-Guide-Waves-Coasts-Climates/dp/0906720583/ref=la_B001KME3KA_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408353372&sr=1-4 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surfers-Guide-Waves-Coasts-Climates/dp/0906720583/ref=la_B001KME3KA_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408353372&sr=1-4)
Palomides and Stu, well jealous. Might be things going on on East Coast this week though.
apprently lions mane's jellies are about
Pointe de la Torche, near Penmarch in Brittany
(http://www.toocamp.com/imgs/campings/camping-bretagne-plomeur-la-torche-25382-1.jpg)
The surf school's between the two beaches. We had a week of nice little waves
Hi all, have just booked flights to Lisbon 19th to 26th, looking for ideas about best places to stay? Me and the other half are prob best described as beginner /intermediate level. She's 5'2 and on a 6'6" fish, I'm 5'9" and on a 6'4" hybrid. Questions: where should we stay for suitable conditions? Should we bother taking the boards, or hire once there? Worth hiring a car? Anyone been and got any recommendations?
thanks all. ummmmmmm do I need a credit card to hire a car??
My better half said the West cost of France is waay harder, so add the cold, the wind etc.....the heavy wetsuit, the weaker waves, the shorter fetch, the crappy sandbars.... Definitely less crowds though. Sometimes.
On googling the photographer found an eye-watering selection of spots http://www.chrisburkard.com/ (http://www.chrisburkard.com/)
On googling the photographer found an eye-watering selection of spots http://www.chrisburkard.com/ (http://www.chrisburkard.com/)
He has a great instagram account too, worth following!
Granticus? (unlikely I know).
I agree. My understanding is they can only increase the speed of the "plough" not its size and therefore i cant see how they will make it 2m as promised. There will come a point where an increase in speed will mess it all up and also make it too fast to surf.
I can see how it will get a bit steeper and faster and maybe even barrel but not double in size.
I take back what I wrote earlier - looks like they've cracked it. Amazing.
http://kswaveco.com/ (http://kswaveco.com/)
Wow.
Missus is now firmly in the tri camp!
...guys in bikeshops told me that mtbers tend to be disappointed, roadies impressed which squares with my experience. Anyway, you'll be too knackered from the surf...
Lanzarote? Never been, friends take their kites but I'm not into that so not sure.
Missed it too.. I have been to Lanza a couple of times and surfed all over the island. It can get very windy but if there is enough swell there are nooks and crannies everywhere to get out of the wind. Some of the breaks can be pretty heavy, the best break are the lava reefs/points which are liberally laced with urchins. I reckon you need to be confident surfing above rock to make the most of it and don't put your feet down! I enjoyed it there and had a lot of fun. I was alone and paddled out alone, didn't get anything but positive vibes in the water but I have heard different from others.Lanzarote? Never been, friends take their kites but I'm not into that so not sure.
Sorry Phil I missed this. I had a couple of great surfs at Famara when I was there. Warm water, nice weather an always a wave; even though it's often onshore the waves have a fair bit of power behind them and seem to hold good shape. There are loads of other spots around the island, and it's small enough you can get from one side to the other for a day trip. I had a look at La Santa once or twice but it looked sketchy and shallow (to me) and apparently very localised. Morro Negro looked to have less people, and more laid back, but I never actually surfed it.
Scroll through this thread there are loads of links
Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk
going through 121 pages.
Cheers.
I suppose big wave surfing classics. Anything entertaining/interesting for someone who knows relatively little about surfing. Ta
Cheers.
I suppose big wave surfing classics. Anything entertaining/interesting for someone who knows relatively little about surfing. Ta
Just in case anyone's interestes, on FB there's a live streaming from Nazare, by Garrett McNamara. Quite cool.
I really think this will be a good watch for anyone even if your not a surfer.
Good knowledge, I've been looking for a chilled surf /rock combo place. Is there board rentals out there? Flying with rack rope and board always seemed like a pain.
For me there is heirarchy of comps that goes something like this... Good surfers in rubbish natural waves = mega boring, good surfers in artificial waves = boring, good surfers in good natural waves = :popcorn:Totally agree but when the surf is shit its really not good. The last Chopes comp a few weeks ago was just awful.
In all seriousness, I think it will be tedious (the Snowdonia comp was). You cant beat the excitement that the unpredictability that nature brings. Big pipeline, epic Cloudbreak, Big Sunset... always will be way more interesting to observe. Of course you cant guarantee good waves though can you but would rather watch the great and good going for it against nature any day.
Well you are going to have a bit of time with your foot up watching?ha ha.. well yeah.. My posting rate on here might increase a bit too.
and now theyve called it off for the day because its too dangerous
Being so close to the ocean but being unable to enjoy it is a little frustrating, mind you its flat right now... This looks good for a little escapism -> https://lockdownsurffilmfestival.com/
Looking like 4 days of pump next week on east coast. Going to be difficult not to go in this time and general feeling up here is a lot are going to do the same.
First pre-work surf yesterday in I don't know how long. In water by 7:45, lovely sunny clean waves, only half a dozen people in. Out by 9, on morning call by 9:30. 15 minute to the beach, thank god for non-existent rush hours.
Also in new suit, finally replaced the GUL i bought in 2002 after I pulled the zip off on Sunday. Warm and really comfy by comparison, but a lot more slippery than the old one, a bit more wax required.
First pre-work surf yesterday in I don't know how long. In water by 7:45, lovely sunny clean waves, only half a dozen people in. Out by 9, on morning call by 9:30. 15 minute to the beach, thank god for non-existent rush hours.Missed it all here, went to my office in sheff for the first time in months.
Also in new suit, finally replaced the GUL i bought in 2002 after I pulled the zip off on Sunday. Warm and really comfy by comparison, but a lot more slippery than the old one, a bit more wax required.
Yeah, we're staying at Club La Santa, so 10k from Famara. Can bike it and hire there if needed. Happy to log, be happy with anything TBH.
Mega swell headed this way tomorrow. 13ft @ 18secs. Accompanied by SW gale force though. Super sheltered spots should be fun to epic though.
yes but it has combined and joined forces with another low pressure system, gaining strength on it's way across the Atlantic. The figures are pretty exceptional, it's been several years since a similar swell event. I'm on half term and have acquired enough brownie points to have a day out checking and hopefully surfing some rare gems. :bounce:Mega swell headed this way tomorrow. 13ft @ 18secs. Accompanied by SW gale force though. Super sheltered spots should be fun to epic though.
Remains of Hurricane Epsilon I believe...
A certain point near you should be amazing BtB?. Mate was in at Puts last week, said it was silly big, and he doesn't scare easily.its been big recently but this is next level...few more well known spots will be on, though the obvious one doesn't like any west in the wind. I'll be off somewhere where SW is offshore.
saw that on IG earlier, crazy! that moment at 2 mins when they all see it...!
This is totally mental. White Jet Ski got psyched...... too the moon!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93DeYIjUXu8&feature=emb_title
saw that on IG earlier, crazy! that moment at 2 mins when they all see it...!
From what I can gather, I think that was the team on the black Jet ski (one before). Not sure what happened to the white (full send) jet ski? probably hasn't landed yet!
That aside, the waves are mesmerising to watch though, rising out of deep water like mythical beasts. Next few days are going to be very interesting out there.
Thats what everyone thinks when actually its full of amazing beginners to intermediates waves.
Indo was always on my wishlist but must admit, I never really got to the level where I could do it justice, and accept now I never will. Never put in the time to get to a competent shortboarder level.
Actually, I meant to say, I highly recommend Sri Lanka for a family holiday (somebody spoke to me as I was typing). The temples and jungles and elephant etc are great for all ages. Buddhist Sinhalese in the South are so friendly and now the war is over, its very much worth the trip. Beaches are stunning and the Divings pretty great too.
https://magicseaweed.com/Aberdeen-Beach-Surf-Report/41/Wowsers!! Huge swell, howling onshores and snow! Should be fun. I guess the most special thing about the swell that hit down here is that it wasn't accompanied by the usual onshore gales. Any east facing nooks and crannies that it could wrap into Chris?
Looks like east coast is getting the monster waves on weekend. Will be utterly unsurfable, but I'll definitely be out with the camera down the cliffs. Looks like Weathergeddon!
Looks decent farther South in spots with a North aspect. There'll be a lot of sickies in the NE this week if the forecast holdsLooks tasty. A least there won't be half of Kernow invading during these times.
(https://i.ibb.co/FH8TNZh/Capture.jpg)
Wowsers!! Huge swell, howling onshores and snow! Should be fun. I guess the most special thing about the swell that hit down here is that it wasn't accompanied by the usual onshore gales. Any east facing nooks and crannies that it could wrap into Chris?
waters filled with great white sharks,
And don't forget the USS Indianapolis...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9S41Kplsbs
I sometimes wonder if we were lucky, but as kids we used to go on holiday on the Transkei Wild Coast and swim on any of the beaches and in the lagoons and river mouths which I know now are really sharky. Closest we got to one was hooking a 2 ft sandshark (spiky as hell) from a cheap rubber dinghy and one of us having to swim for shore with the line so as to not puncture the boat.
Erm... the book and article isnt really about sharks.
"The shark isn't getting its tooth back [and] I'm not getting my leg back."
Anyone find popping up annoys tennis elbow? Had a long stretch in the water on Saturday, and it's felt a bit tweaky on right arm ever since.
It's the North Sea, cold is default. Was in for about 2.5 hours, and it was pretty overcast, and a chilly breeze.
I had the same with zip going on my old GUL suit last year, came off in my hand as I was about to get in the water. Managed to get it back together for the session, but prompted me to replace, I got it in 2001 or so, so was due an upgrade, and new suit is like a cocoon of comfort by comparison.
Anyway, ordered a front zip.
Damned expensive for a 5/4! WTF!
Chris it's more likely to be the action of paddling, rather than popping up that is causing elbow issues. I had a surfing buddy that suffered really bad with this and almost quit surfing. Standard rehab/prevention exercises apply or get towed in to everything.!
The rip curl dawn patrol 5/3 i got from Wetsuit Outlet is amazing compared to my old Gul as far as warmth, flex and general comfort go. Fortunately most LT size suits fit me perfectly, so not a lot of need to try many on.
Do you guys in the SW need to go thicker than that? I used to wear that old GUL with a polypro hooded rash vest in winter and it was OK with decent mitts and boots?
I've got a Gul 6/5 ish steamer with a fell cross-back drysuit style zip but I can only imagine that would be gash for surfing. It's also 23 years old (fuck I'm getting old) and has a few holes and rips. Might botch it back together for the rare occasion I go out - can always get something better if I end up getting out more regularly.
almost NSFW, clicking on it seeing a grown man dressed in black rubber
I was told the Swedes really knew how to put a winter suit together and its actually kinda impressive so far.
More seriously though. My first wetsuit when i started surfing was a cheapo swimming/diving suit which had a seam all along the front centre, and for the first year i had a permanent imprint/rash all along my chest and upper belly from paddling.
A friend of my mother's who noticed it when he took me diving took a couple of strips of 5mm neoprene he had for repairs and glued them on either side of the seam, which made it immensely more comfortable. You may want to consider something like it if you are gonna surf this suit?
Chris it's more likely to be the action of paddling, rather than popping up that is causing elbow issues. I had a surfing buddy that suffered really bad with this and almost quit surfing. Standard rehab/prevention exercises apply or get towed in to everything.!
https://beachgrit.com/2021/06/surf-ranch-pro-day-two-analysis-like-a-dog-coming-back-to-lick-its-own-vomit-the-mess-of-the-surf-ranch-has-an-irresistibly-vile-attraction-to-me/
Anyone watched any of the surf ranch comps? Anyone else find it pretty mundane?
https://beachgrit.com/2021/06/surf-ranch-pro-day-two-analysis-like-a-dog-coming-back-to-lick-its-own-vomit-the-mess-of-the-surf-ranch-has-an-irresistibly-vile-attraction-to-me/
Anyone watched any of the surf ranch comps? Anyone else find it pretty mundane?
Only clips on Insta.
To all those surfing
If I had a lesson whilst in Cornwall, are you likely to get much done in 90 mins? Its something Ive always wanted to try.
Dont want to get into it properly but if, by the end of 90 mins, you might be able to actually do some tiny waves I might try to organise it.
As you are athletic (a good climber) I think you could expect to be standing up on whitewater (waves that have already broken) within an hour if you're on a big foam board.
For your first time i think you'd actually be better off without a lesson so that you have more time to figure it out and practice. Just watch a few youtube lessons beforehand and practice popping up on the floor. A lesson would probably be more useful when you want to progress to unbroken waves.
Treat it like projecting and be perceptive to what's happening. Nose dives while paddling in? Position yourself further back on the board. Etc.
Thanks for the tips! I did wonder about just having a go so maybe thats the better option. Also cheaper and probably have a longer session and be able to take rests.
We will be down in SW Cornwall. Definitely going to Sennen one day which seems to have hire places.
Any suitable beaches around that area?
...Don’t want to get into it properly but...
-Waves were small so broke quickly and close to the shore. It means that the whitewater bit was often on very shallow water so the tail fins hit the ground.
- small waves meant that the energy dissipated quickly so not much chance to take you far.
- there wasnt much pre-break wave which seemed surfable. So limited scope for standing up before they broke.
(my pop is shit - fine when stood up tho)
Time in the water is better than no time in the water.(my pop is shit - fine when stood up tho)
This is common. No reason you can't practice at home. Push ups help too, and core work.
Tis a great board though, I've never felt the need for anything else.
Planning a trip to Tenerife in January for a bit of mid-winter surfing and sport climbing action (probably a just have couple of surf days, the rest climbing) - pretty much know what's going on re. climbing out there but have no real idea what the surfing is like - from the limited bit I've read there's a lot of reefs, rocks and angry locals - sounds err... Mint.
Thought I'd see if anyone here's been and has any recomendations for a surf punter? CBA to lug a board for just a couple of days but happy to sling a suit and boots in the bag - staying Arico way but will have a car.
Cheers...
What's the deal with surfing localism? It sounds like people are complete arseholes. Can anyone point to an article explaining the phenomenon?
One gang member said yesterday: "I think there are too many floaters in the water. They have got no respect..."
demands including one that no pasties be sold throughout the world with carrots in them
it'll probably be a good idea to get a copy of the Stormrider Europe