UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Nigel on March 11, 2007, 10:23:10 am
-
Apparently Rockatrocity 7c received its first female ascent yesterday. Uncle was there by all accounts so perhaps he can add some details? Since I haven't got a clue who did it. Regardless, this is a superb effort! :great:
-
Indeed an excellent ascent- well done Ms Anonymiss.
Not being inflammatory or sexist etc but I haven't heard of female ascents of problems of cutting edge standards (8b and above). Why is this?
-
Yeah its a great effort. The lady in question is called Deb (apologies if i'm wrong) and hails from Wolverhampton. I saw her getting close a few weeks back and was dismayed by way she was getting the flake with her foot on a sloper instead of on the good foothold that most taller climbers can reach. Sick body tension. Nice one. :thumbsup:
-
and i should add its her first 7c!
-
awesome effort deb, Rockatrocity is never ever easy!!!! Trigger Cut next?
-
I witnessed this fine ascent on saturday afternoon and must say I was mightily impressed. I was most impressed at the ease by which Deb was doing the moves actually. She fell at the end a number of times and the drilled pocket was also slightly damp which only made things harder. This is a fine, fine ascent and I am very sure she is capable of doing harder.
-
In my opinion if you can do RA easily, you can climb much harder. The strength you need to effectively lap this problem, which it sounds like this lady pretty much was, is sufficient to carry you up almost any basic 7c and to be honest most 7c+'s. I'm sure we'll be hearing more female beastliness from this quarter!
-
Awesome effort! Fingers of steel or a high pain threshhold? Either way, that is a fantastic first 7c - they should all fall now!
-
Thanks for all the support and beta , from you guys who have been down there while we have been trying this.
Just need to get myself to the end of this problem, shame I lost the bet I would do it first, think this help a bit.
-
Pics and link to Youtube film now up:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=247
-
Excellent stuff Deb.
I'd watch out for your jealous counterpart though who blocked the video lens at the end ;)
-
excellent work ,Totally cruised!! was trying this myself last weekend but couldn't get the link.
-
Nice one lass. Any relation to Ronnie?
-
is this the hardest bloc climbed by a british girl in uk? not really just thinking about the grade.
-
Siobhan and Lucy ahve both done Ben's Roof.....
-
both with the knee bar?
-
I don't think Shiv used the bar (no idea about Lucy). It still considerably harder than RA either way
-
When she was working it she certainly used the knee bar then, but I wasnt there when it actually went down so I dont know.
-
i agree it is harder but my feeling about RA is that it always seems bloody desperate no matter how well you are climbing. There aint many tricks to lock the pocket to the flake apart from pure strength. Deb climbing this is is mega impressive to me. RA never really seems to get easier whereas as Bens roof does. Anyway grades eh what a pain in the ass. Great to see the ladies dispatching though.
-
both with the knee bar?
Just got a text from Shiv: I'd just like to clarify that the above wasn't meant to be offensive and If it was then I apologise.
I now hope this doesn't detract from all of the fine ascents mentioned above.
Oh yeah and just to add - the knee bar WASN'T used by siobhan on her ascent.
-
Just for the record, Shiv did use a knee bar. But given this is the easiest move on the problem (whether you use it or not) and doesn't make the problem harder or easier it's irrelevant. She did however have to use a minging crozzly u'cut to move off it which is harder than the aforementioned ways but again that doesn't matter either. It's a matter of what suits different sizes / techniques.
Anyway it's a fantastic effort from Deb and maybe she'll be back on PUTP later in the year.
-
To be quite honest, I think its harder with the knee bar. I cant do it if I go that way. Anyway, this is all bollocks, well done to Shiv for doing Ben's roof and Deb for Rock Attrocity.
-
whoops again and:
well done to Shiv for doing Ben's roof and Deb for Rock Attrocity.
ditto
-
I think the Debs and Siobhan must be out there climbing whilst we are chatting on forums.... :oops:
-
Good effort deb, she`s well capable of doing this she kick`s our asses on a regular basis at the climbing wall. Keep it up deb get ticking some more like this and harder. :dance1: :dance1:
-
Nice Bea Hind in video
-
Has Katie Mills done RA?
It's says it's her favourite problem on her profile.......
http://www.britishbouldering.com/profiles/katie.htm
-
My favourite problem is Superman but sadly I havent done it. On this basis I dont think we should assume having it as your favourite means you have done it.
-
up the girls come on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :great:
-
Just to let you know she has now to Cubby's Lip at Kyloe in the woods
see video here
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=_qfHVne2TH4
-
Has Katie Mills done RA?
It's says it's her favourite problem on her profile.......
http://www.britishbouldering.com/profiles/katie.htm
No she hasnt done it but has been trying it.