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1
beta - chuffing / Re: Pinch Test Rubicon
« Last post by mic_b on Yesterday at 10:42:13 pm »
Pinch test is one / two really hard moves so is difficult to grade. I thought it was easier to red point then the sissy / dangerous brothers / tribes. But those 2 moves were significantly harder than any moves on the other routes. So imo easier but I could full understand anyone that found it harder 
2
beta - chuffing / Pinch Test Rubicon
« Last post by simon40 on Yesterday at 09:29:22 pm »
Hi
Strangish question but how hard in Pinch Test compared with others such as Sissy and those to the right of Caviar
Cheers
3
music, art and culture / Re: RIP
« Last post by MarkJ on Yesterday at 08:44:48 pm »
The scene where he runs out of the house and into the pond to try & save his daughter is stunning.
4
get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Peak District Tick Watch
« Last post by Muenchener on Yesterday at 08:07:06 pm »
Indeed. I'm vaccinated against tick-borne encephalitis, as are most people over here who spend time out in the woods & hills. We had a big scare when it first became endemic/common in central Europe ten years or so ago. Am far more scared of Lyme's.
5
music, art and culture / Re: RIP
« Last post by andy popp on Yesterday at 07:51:14 pm »
Donald Sutherland - one of the greats! "Don't Look Now" is an incredible film.
6
get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Peak District Tick Watch
« Last post by danm on Yesterday at 06:52:19 pm »
More of a global tick watch, but Margo Hayes has posted on her IG that she's been really sick with Lyme's disease and other tick related illness for some time. Reckons she contracted it in RRG as a youth. Makes her achievements even more incredible, it's a horrible debilitating disease.
7
bouldering / Re: YYFY!!!
« Last post by Hoseyb on Yesterday at 01:54:02 pm »
Take care with the pinkie pulls. Easy to overdo it and tear a lumbrical.

I was only pulling for the testing. I have historically strong pinkies as I suffered a run of ring finger pulley issues and the pinkies compensated. It also helps there's only 2cm difference between my pinky and middle finger.

I have more issues with the lumbricals on my index as they are genetically a bit curved inward
8
bouldering / Re: YYFY!!!
« Last post by Hoseyb on Yesterday at 01:48:41 pm »
Training:
5:10s
5s hang 10s rest 5rep 2set with 2m recovery
Done as either 4 finger drag on the diddy BM edge ( once comfortable this was part of my warm up) hc on 20mm or slopers on the top.
Flexbar
Wrist strengthening with the blue
5s effort 2s rest 10reps 3 sets 2m recovery.
Done in each plane of wrist rotation, both directions.

I'm part of the setting team at the Beacon, so I would feel my way through the week, and balance the setting with an extra boulder session and maybe a more thorough day of the above exercises.

Monitoring my fatigue and having adequate rest was key.
9
bouldering / Re: YYFY!!!
« Last post by Tom de Gay on Yesterday at 01:47:34 pm »
Take care with the pinkie pulls. Easy to overdo it and tear a lumbrical.
10
bouldering / Re: YYFY!!!
« Last post by Hoseyb on Yesterday at 12:59:16 pm »
In January; single finger half crimp beast maker 20mm edge standing on scales measuring each finger max hang ( via weight removed) little finger in drag
Yesterday, set up was a tindeq and 20mm edge with a foot plate, so max force generated.

Each finger can do at least 3kg more, which works out as about 30% improvement.
Highlights being:
Pinkie left hand 8kg to 13kg
Middle right hand is now up to 20kg
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