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the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: jwi on February 25, 2019, 09:19:55 am

Title: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 25, 2019, 09:19:55 am
All climbers who have done 9a+ or harder (of which FA), including a number of fantasists as per usual.
Code: [Select]

                    Climber #≥9a+ #FA
1                Adam Ondra    61  39
2              Chris Sharma    21  16
3                Alex Megos    15   5
4          Stefano Ghisolfi    14   3
5                Sachi Amma    13   3
6            Jakob Schubert    11   
7         Jonathan Siegrist     8   
8  Ramón Julián Puigblanqué     8   5
9               Piotr Schab     8   1
10          Sébastien Bouin     7   3
11             Dani Andrada     6   5
12            Magnus Midtbø     6   
13             Ramon Julian     6   
14               Matty Hong     5   
15            Pirmin Bertle     5   5
16             Daniel Woods     5   1
17                 Iker Pou     5   4
18           Patxi Usobiaga     5   
19            Fred Rouhling     4   4
20                Edu Marin     4   
21          Gérôme Pouvreau     4   3
22                Enzo Oddo     4   1
23             Jon Cardwell     3   
24            Cédric Lachat     3   
25             Klemen Becan     3   1
26            Ethan Pringle     2   
27            Steve McClure     2   2
28        Bernabé Fernandez     2   2
29         Jorge Diaz Rullo     2   1
30              Markus Bock     2   2
31              Margo Hayes     2   
32          Stefano Carnati     2   
33          Alexander Megos     2   2
34              Daniel Jung     2   
35            Jernej Kruder     2   1
36          Mateusz Haladaj     2   
37         Gonzalo Larrocha     2   
38         David Firnenburg     2   
39             Angela Eiter     1   
40            Jacob Shubert     1   
41           Danilo Pereyra     1   
42    Dimitri Sharafutdinov     1   
43           Sylvain Millet     1   
44              Dave Graham     1   
45              Sean Bailey     1   
46       Luis Alfonso Felix     1   1
47            Jakub Konecny     1   
48             David Gambús     1   
49            Jakob Shubert     1   1
50          Félix Neumärker     1   
51             Dai Koyamada     1   
52          Mathieu Bouyoud     1   1
53           Arthur Kubista     1   1
54          Alessandro Zeni     1   1
55                Jan Hojer     1   
56           Shawn Raboutou     1   
57            Yuji Hirayama     1   1
58            Toru Nakajima     1   
59           Tommy Caldwell     1   1
60            Pablo Barbero     1   1
61          Gabriele Moroni     1   
62             Silvio Reffo     1   
63         Vasya Vorotnikov     1   1
64               Mike Foley     1   
65            Andrew Palmer     1   
66            Paul Robinson     1   
67             Tristan Chen     1   
68        Andreas Binhammer     1   
69       Andreas Bindhammer     1   
70          Felix Neumärker     1   
71              Sangwon Son     1   
72           Jacopo Larcher     1   
73            Tomas Ravanal     1   
74              Gerard Rull     1   
75           Stefan Schibli     1   1
76               Joe Kinder     1   1
77           Daniel Fuertes     1   1
78          Alexander Huber     1   1
79      Roland Hemetzberger     1   1
80             Domen Skofic     1   
81              Said Belhaj     1   
82           Felipe Camargo     1   
83               James Litz     1   1
84       Baptiste Dherbilly     1   
85              Loïc Zehani     1   
86             Kamil Ferenc     1   
87           Anak Verhoeven     1   1
88           Eric Albertini     1   
89             John Gaskins     1   1

There are a number of lists of hard ascents on the internet. The best by far is http://escalade9.wifeo.com/histoire-du-9e-degre.php which lists all routes from 9a+ and up (and lots of historical 9a and 9a+ routes as well) with route descriptions, list of ascensionists, photos etc. In short, an indispensable resource.

On https://www.99boulders.com there is a list of all hard boulder-problems, routes and traverses.

Both these lists suffers from not being 'tidy'. (A list should have one row per individual ascent, and the row should contain all observations about the ascent, such as route name, location, first ascensionst, ascent date etc.) If the list is not tidi it is difficult to put the lists into your favourite software for analysing the data.

Inspired by the threads UK men|women who have done X I compiled a tidy list of all ascents of routes 9a+ or harder here>
https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents

In order not to be bogged down in editorial choices when keeping track of every ascent >=9a+ I have included a number of well known fantasists (i.e. climbers who claim ascents of 9.x but have never been witnessed doing anything of comparable difficulty e.g.. doing another 9.x,  9.(x-1) in a day, or onsights of 9.(x-2)).

From this list it is trivial to extract list like the one above, or
Code: [Select]
          Country 5.15 routes
1           Spain 44
2          France 20
3           Italy 10
4          Norway  9
5           Swiss  7
6   United States  5
7         Germany  5
8         Austria  5
9           Japan  4
10 Czech republic  3
11         Canada  3
12        England  3
13       Slovakia  1
14       Slovenia  1
15         Bosnia  1
16       Malaysia  1
17          Chile  1
18        Romania  1
19      Macedonia  1
20        Croatia  1

Included on the gituhub is also a timeline of all first ascents of routes 9a+ or harder (which looks a bit messy atm, I'll fix this when I have time) https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/TimeLine.pdf

9a+ is likely a too low cut-off for hard routes, and it's soon time to move it to 9b.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: remus on February 25, 2019, 09:42:06 am
 :2thumbsup: yes!

I guess you've seen https://www.hardclimbs.info ? Seems fairly comprehensive of the stuff I've checked.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 25, 2019, 10:16:50 am
:2thumbsup: yes!

I guess you've seen https://www.hardclimbs.info ? Seems fairly comprehensive of the stuff I've checked.

Yes, I think https://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs?styles=2 har the same data as on 99boulder. They seem to include long traverses, and have some iffy grades on some of the routes. Good list but not tidy, and doesn't include dates.

I just saw that Alex Megos is on my list under two different names (Alex and Alexander). I should probably change "England" to United Kingdom as long as the Kingdoms are indeed united (and as there are no hard routes in Wales, Scottland or Northern Ireland).
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 25, 2019, 10:29:54 am
Spain and United States have good weather... And Frankenjura has Alex Megos and Adam Ondra for repeats...
Code: [Select]
          Country Routes Ascents
1           Spain     44     168
2          France     20      46
3           Italy     10      19
4          Norway      9      10
5           Swiss      7       9
6   United States      5      14
7         Germany      5      13
8         Austria      5       7
9           Japan      4       6
10 Czech republic      3       3
11         Canada      3       3
12 United Kingdom      3       4
13       Slovakia      1       1
14       Slovenia      1       1
15         Bosnia      1       1
16       Malaysia      1       2
17          Chile      1       1
18        Romania      1       1
19      Macedonia      1       1
20        Croatia      1       1
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: cheque on February 25, 2019, 10:35:45 am
Can you change the title to "World's worthiest humans"?  ;)

It's weird that Australia doesn't have more more 9th grade routes- it's got the rock and the climbers. I guess it's too hot?

including a number of fantasists as per usual.

Who are the fantasists jwi?  :popcorn:

there are no hard routes in Wales, Scotland or Northern Ireland

 :jab:
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on February 25, 2019, 10:37:59 am
(and as there are no hard routes in Wales, Scottland or Northern Ireland).

wadded.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: SA Chris on February 25, 2019, 11:03:39 am
There are, they just lack the crucial +
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: bigironhorse on February 25, 2019, 11:05:48 am
So Ondra has still got more than half of the worlds 9a+ and harder to do before he has a comprehensive ticklist. He needs to pull his bloody finger out!
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 25, 2019, 11:07:22 am

including a number of fantasists as per usual.

Who are the fantasists jwi?  :popcorn:

Climbers who claim ascents of 9.x but have never been witnessed doing anything of comparable difficulty e.g.. doing another 9.x,  9.(x-1) in a day, or onsights of 9.(x-2)

E.g. Bernabes Fernandez and Fred Rouhling have been witnessed doing individual hard moves and sequences, but nothing close to what they claim. Any 9b climber will be able to do 9a in a day or 8c onsight, a 9a every now and then and redpoint 8c+ like it is nothing. If there are no witness for integral ascents of any of these feats one must conclude that we're dealing with a fantasist.

The two aforementioned are the clearest examples, but there are a few more in the list where it is difficult to find independent witnesses or videos of actual ascents. Everyone on the list is clearly talented and super strong, well able to climb in the high 8s but rumours persist about dodgy claims for a few. I don't think it is my place to mention names.

Sadly, Akira is not possible to try atm. Seb Bouin wanted to try to clear it up for his project of climbing the first route of every grade in France. The cave is closed for public, and open to just a few visitors every year due to delicate cave paintings.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 25, 2019, 11:46:49 am
So Ondra has still got more than half of the worlds 9a+ and harder to do before he has a comprehensive ticklist. He needs to pull his bloody finger out!

As a service for Ondra:

Code: [Select]
                               Name Grade        Country
 1:                  Perfecto Mundo   9b+          Spain
 2:                           Akira    9b         France
 3: Ali Hulk (sitstart + extension)    9b          Spain
 4:  Delincuente natural(extension)    9b          Spain
 5:                      Fight Club    9b         Canada
 6:                      Jumbo love    9b  United States
 7:                     La Barrière    9b          Swiss
 8:                         Rainman    9b United Kingdom
 9:                       Soul Mate    9b          Japan
10:                          Alasha 9a+/b          Spain
11:                        Artaburu 9a+/b          Spain
12:                    Catxasa (R2) 9a+/b          Spain
13:                   El bon combat 9a+/b          Spain
14:  Les yeux plus gros que l'antre 9a+/b         France
15:                       Supernova 9a+/b        Germany
16:      Ali Hulk (extension total)   9a+          Spain
17:            Ali Hulk (extension)   9a+          Spain
18:             Ali Hulk (sitstart)   9a+          Spain
19:                  Aubade directe   9a+         France
20:                        Becoming   9a+        Germany
21:                         Big men   9a+          Spain
22:                      Black Bock   9a+          Spain
23:                         Celedon   9a+          Spain
24:             Clash of the Titans   9a+        Austria
25:                      Classified   9a+        Germany
26:             Companion of Change   9a+        Austria
27:                       Deep Spot   9a+         France
28:                  Demencia Senil   9a+          Spain
29:                  Der Lange Atem   9a+        Austria
30:                        Dugi Rat   9a+        Croatia
31:                      Empreintes   9a+         France
32:                 Energia Cosmica   9a+          Italy
33:                       Es Pontas   9a+          Spain
34:                       First Ley   9a+          Spain
35:                   Flat Mountain   9a+          Japan
36:                     Flex Luthor   9a+  United States
37:            Following the Leader   9a+          Spain
38:                         Jaws II   9a+  United States
39:                        Joe Mama   9a+          Spain
40:                           Kmira   9a+         France
41:               La Cène du Lézard   9a+          Swiss
42:                 La Côte d'Usure   9a+         France
43:                       La Madone   9a+         France
44:          La Moustache qui fâche   9a+         France
45:            Le Vent Nous Portera   9a+          Chile
46:              Licht une Schatten   9a+          Swiss
47:                Life of Villains   9a+  United States
48:                        Maturity   9a+          Japan
49:                            Maya   9a+          Spain
50:                   Minimalomania   9a+          Swiss
51:                  Nit de Bruixes   9a+          Spain
52:                 No Pain No Gain   9a+          Spain
53:                           Orujo   9a+          Spain
54:                           Outro   9a+        Austria
55:                        Panorama   9a+          Spain
56:                Peruvian Necktie   9a+  United States
57:                         Red Ram   9a+          Spain
58:                            Rise   9a+          Japan
59:                      Salamandre   9a+         France
60:                    Sashidananda   9a+         France
61:                   Seleccio Anal   9a+          Spain
62:                      Sweet Neuf   9a+         France
63:                          Tinipi   9a+       Malaysia
64:               Violent New Breed   9a+ United Kingdom

I think we can let him skip Ali Hulk in its 4(!) versions. Akira is not possible atm.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 25, 2019, 12:59:54 pm
There were some doubling in my original list, due to spelling variations/errors. New list of the 83 9a+ claimants:
Code: [Select]
                    Climber #≥9a+ #FA
1                Adam Ondra    61  39
2              Chris Sharma    21  16
3           Alexander Megos    17   7
4          Stefano Ghisolfi    14   3
5  Ramón Julián Puigblanqué    14   5
6            Jakob Schubert    13   1
7                Sachi Amma    13   3
8         Jonathan Siegrist     8   
9               Piotr Schab     8   1
10          Sébastien Bouin     7   3
11             Dani Andrada     6   5
12            Magnus Midtbø     6   
13               Matty Hong     5   
14            Pirmin Bertle     5   5
15             Daniel Woods     5   1
16                 Iker Pou     5   4
17           Patxi Usobiaga     5   
18            Fred Rouhling     4   4
19                Edu Marin     4   
20          Gérôme Pouvreau     4   3
21                Enzo Oddo     4   1
22             Jon Cardwell     3   
23            Cédric Lachat     3   
24             Klemen Becan     3   1
25            Ethan Pringle     2   
26            Steve McClure     2   2
27        Bernabé Fernandez     2   2
28         Jorge Diaz Rullo     2   1
29              Markus Bock     2   2
30              Margo Hayes     2   
31          Stefano Carnati     2   
32          Felix Neumärker     2   
33              Daniel Jung     2   
34            Jernej Kruder     2   1
35          Mateusz Haladaj     2   
36       Andreas Bindhammer     2   
37         Gonzalo Larrocha     2   
38         David Firnenburg     2   
39             Angela Eiter     1   
40           Danilo Pereyra     1   
41    Dimitri Sharafutdinov     1   
42           Sylvain Millet     1   
43              Dave Graham     1   
44              Sean Bailey     1   
45       Luis Alfonso Felix     1   1
46            Jakub Konecny     1   
47             David Gambús     1   
48             Dai Koyamada     1   
49          Mathieu Bouyoud     1   1
50           Arthur Kubista     1   1
51          Alessandro Zeni     1   1
52                Jan Hojer     1   
53           Shawn Raboutou     1   
54            Yuji Hirayama     1   1
55            Toru Nakajima     1   
56           Tommy Caldwell     1   1
57            Pablo Barbero     1   1
58          Gabriele Moroni     1   
59             Silvio Reffo     1   
60         Vasya Vorotnikov     1   1
61               Mike Foley     1   
62            Andrew Palmer     1   
63            Paul Robinson     1   
64             Tristan Chen     1   
65              Sangwon Son     1   
66           Jacopo Larcher     1   
67            Tomas Ravanal     1   
68              Gerard Rull     1   
69           Stefan Schibli     1   1
70               Joe Kinder     1   1
71           Daniel Fuertes     1   1
72          Alexander Huber     1   1
73      Roland Hemetzberger     1   1
74             Domen Skofic     1   
75              Said Belhaj     1   
76           Felipe Camargo     1   
77               James Litz     1   1
78       Baptiste Dherbilly     1   
79              Loïc Zehani     1   
80             Kamil Ferenc     1   
81           Anak Verhoeven     1   1
82           Eric Albertini     1   
83             John Gaskins     1   1

Maybe a moderator could modify my first post?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: HaeMeS on February 25, 2019, 01:59:17 pm
Nerd  ;)  :bow:
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: petejh on February 25, 2019, 03:28:56 pm
Great list skillz.
Would be interesting to see all the 9a+/b/+ that are currently unrepeated..
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 25, 2019, 04:14:38 pm
Great list skillz.
Would be interesting to see all the 9a+/b/+ that are currently unrepeated..

That's easy
Code: [Select]
                            Name Grade                     Area        Country       First.Ascensionist    FA.date
 1:                        Silence    9c                Flatanger         Norway               Adam Ondra 2017-09-03
 2:                         Change   9b+                Flatanger         Norway               Adam Ondra 2012-10-04
 3:                    Vasil Vasil   9b+                    Sloup Czech republic               Adam Ondra 2013-12-04
 4:                          Akira    9b               Vilhonneur         France            Fred Rouhling       1995
 5: Delincuente natural(extension)    9b                 Rodellar          Spain             Dani Andrada 2008-09-13
 6:                      Chaxiraxi    9b                   Oliana          Spain               Adam Ondra 2011-03-27
 7:                   Iron Curtain    9b                Flatanger         Norway               Adam Ondra 2013-08-03
 8:                           Move    9b                Flatanger         Norway               Adam Ondra 2013-08-20
 9:                            CRS    9b       Mollans sur Ouvèze         France               Adam Ondra 2015-11-02
10:                     Fight Club    9b             Raven's crag         Canada          Alexander Megos 2016-08-14
11:                       Robin úd    9b       Alternatívna stena       Slovakia               Adam Ondra 2016-10-05
12:                      Mamichula    9b                   Oliana          Spain               Adam Ondra 2017-02-02
13:                     Queen Line    9b                     Arco          Italy               Adam Ondra 2017-04-18
14:                        Rainman    9b              Malham Cove United Kingdom            Steve McClure 2017-06-04
15:                      Move Hard    9b                Flatanger         Norway               Adam Ondra 2017-07-10
16:                        Eagle 4    9b   Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux         France               Adam Ondra 2018-02-13
17:                      Soul Mate    9b                  Okutama          Japan               Sachi Amma    2018-03
18:                      Disbelief    9b                 Acéphale         Canada               Adam Ondra    2018-07
19:                    La Barrière    9b                  Jansegg          Swiss            Pirmin Bertle 2018-08-26
20:               Marina Superstar 9a+/b               Domusnovas          Italy               Adam Ondra    2009-10
21:                   Catxasa (R2) 9a+/b              Santa Linya          Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanqué 2012-06-29
22:               Torture physique 9a+/b                Gastlösen          Swiss               Adam Ondra    2013-07
23:                      Supernova 9a+/b              Frankenjura        Germany          Alexander Megos 2015-10-01
24:                Viscious circle 9a+/b                      Osp       Slovenia               Adam Ondra 2016-03-25
25:                         Alasha 9a+/b                 Majorque          Spain             Chris Sharma    2016-09
26: Les yeux plus gros que l'antre 9a+/b                   Russan         France          Sébastien Bouin 2018-04-03
27:                      High Line 9a+/b            Kanjon Tjesno         Bosnia               Adam Ondra    2018-09
28:                       Artaburu 9a+/b                 Margalef          Spain                 Iker Pou 2018-12-19
29:                          Orujo   9a+                Archidona          Spain        Bernabé Fernández       1998
30:                    Flex Luthor   9a+                    Rifle  United States           Tommy Caldwell    2003-01
31:              Violent New Breed   9a+              Giggleswick United Kingdom             John Gaskins    2004-06
32:                     Empreintes   9a+ Saint Pierre de Faucigny         France            Fred Rouhling       2008
33:                 Der Lange Atem   9a+                Höllental        Austria           Arthur Kubista 2009-10-31
34: L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs   9a+                    Céüse         France               Adam Ondra 2010-09-06
35:              Obrint el sistema   9a+                Santa Ana          Spain               Adam Ondra 2011-03-14
36:                     Perlorodka   9a+             Holstejn Mor Czech republic               Adam Ondra 2011-09-06
37:                     Perlorodka   9a+            Moravsky kras Czech republic               Adam Ondra 2011-09-08
38:                     Black Bock   9a+                   Cuenca          Spain       Luis Alfonso Felix 2011-12-02
39:               Peruvian Necktie   9a+            Pop tire cave  United States               James Litz       2013
40:                  Minimalomania   9a+                Lindental          Swiss            Pirmin Bertle    2013-03
41:                     Classified   9a+              Frankenjura        Germany          Alexander Megos    2013-04
42:                        Red Ram   9a+                 Margalef          Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanqué 2013-08-30
43:                      Hellracer   9a+                     Hell         Norway               Adam Ondra 2013-09-22
44:                        Big men   9a+                  Fraguel          Spain                 Iker Pou    2015-04
45:                          Kmira   9a+              Pic St Loup         France          Sébastien Bouin 2015-07-09
46:                      Deep Spot   9a+        La Balme de Yenne         France          Mathieu Bouyoud 2015-08-08
47:             Licht une Schatten   9a+                    Telli          Swiss           Stefan Schibli 2015-11-15
48:                          Outro   9a+                Achleiten        Austria      Roland Hemetzberger    2015-12
49:                    120 Degrees   9a+                Flatanger         Norway               Adam Ondra 2016-06-16
50:                   Hyper finale   9a+                    Rawyl          Swiss               Adam Ondra 2016-07-17
51:                           Maya   9a+                 Margalef          Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanqué 2016-09-10
52:                   Naturalmente   9a+                 Camaiore          Italy               Adam Ondra 2017-04-21
53:            Clash of the Titans   9a+              Götterwandl        Austria          Alexander Megos 2017-06-18
54:               Thor's Hammer R2   9a+                Flatanger         Norway               Adam Ondra    2017-09
55:                     Sweet Neuf   9a+                  Presles         France           Anak Verhoeven 2017-09-06
56:           Le Vent Nous Portera   9a+                  Socaire          Chile            Pirmin Bertle    2017-10
57:                       Maturity   9a+                Gozen-iwa          Japan               Sachi Amma    2017-12
58:                    La Castagne   9a+   Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux         France               Adam Ondra 2018-02-03
59:    Underground > Pure dreaming   9a+                     Arco          Italy               Adam Ondra 2018-02-25
60:                Stone Butterfly   9a+                Herculane        Romania               Adam Ondra 2018-05-15
61:     Ali Hulk (extension total)   9a+                 Rodellar          Spain              Piotr Schab    2018-07
62:                       Panorama   9a+                  Patones          Spain         Jorge Diaz Rullo 2018-07-15
63:                      Sacrifice   9a+              Echo Valley         Canada               Adam Ondra 2018-07-23
64:                La Côte d'Usure   9a+                   Verdon         France          Sébastien Bouin 2018-09-23
65:                Energia Cosmica   9a+                   Bilico          Italy          Alessandro Zeni    2018-11
66:                           Rise   9a+              Futago-yama          Japan               Sachi Amma    2018-11
67:                     Czech Trip   9a+                  Mavrovo      Macedonia               Adam Ondra 2018-12-19
68:                       Dugi Rat   9a+                   Vrulja        Croatia            Jernej Kruder 2018-12-31
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: joel182 on February 25, 2019, 05:20:52 pm
So Ondra has still got more than half of the worlds 9a+ and harder to do before he has a comprehensive ticklist. He needs to pull his bloody finger out!

He's the first ascensionist for 30% of the climbs on the list though, so I guess he's not doing that badly.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 25, 2019, 09:04:38 pm
.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 26, 2019, 08:30:34 am
Speaking of editorial choices: Edu Marin has freed the fifth pitch of Valhalla in Getu, China, at 9a+, but has not made an integral ascent of the route. Does that count? I would say yes, tentatively, as Edu is human and has climbed a 9a+ pitch from start to finish, even though he hasn't climbed the route.

So ascent counter is up to 311, route counter up to 125, and China has its first 9a+ pitch.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: remus on February 26, 2019, 09:27:53 am
I would say yes, tentatively, as Edu is human and has climbed a 9a+ pitch from start to finish, even though he hasn't climbed the route.

Seems sensible to me. Perhaps a comment field would be helpful to explain edge cases like this? Where it's not worth adding a column to the dataset because it would be so rarely used. It does go against the 'neat, easily analysed data' thing though.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 26, 2019, 10:24:42 am
A comment field would definitely be a good idea. To keep it tidy, two comment fields would be needed actually. One comment field for the first ascension and one comment field for the ascent.

I couldn't be bothered with the effort when I compiled the list...
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: derekthatcher on February 26, 2019, 07:02:21 pm
A great tidy list, needs graphs.
Perhaps like https://hardclimbs.castlehillbasin.co.nz/ - which pulls data from https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uzZPrUl5LJBknNup3UbPfe5iDXMI6Bbqko0eKxpz4iQ/edit
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 26, 2019, 09:26:27 pm
A great tidy list, needs graphs.

For now, the only graph is this https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/timeline.pdf which is worth downloading and scrolling at actual size in all its glory, if I may say so myself...

Nice spreadsheet btw!
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on February 27, 2019, 11:28:51 am
That timeline is great at full size.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 27, 2019, 08:09:25 pm
[...] needs graphs.

Ask and you shall receive

(https://i.imgur.com/q3bvujc.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/MfndEgJ.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/FpbOTIs.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/KcJPPu8.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/4G44j15.jpg)

Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: derekthatcher on February 27, 2019, 11:18:27 pm
Excellent!
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on April 03, 2019, 05:59:42 pm
For the first quarter of 2019.

Code: [Select]
   
             Name Grade       Date           Climber
      Valhalla P5   9a+ 2019-01-20         Edu Marin
          Catxasa   9a+ 2019-02-08        Adam Ondra
        La Rambla   9a+ 2019-02-08       Piotr Schab
      Neanderthal    9b 2019-02-12        Adam Ondra
       Queen Line    9b 2019-02-26  Stefano Ghisolfi
         Joe Mama   9a+ 2019-02-27      Jon Cardwell
        La Rambla   9a+ 2019-03-02       Dave Graham
         Joe Mama   9a+ 2019-03-03       Sean Bailey
        Pachamama   9a+ 2019-03-05   Sébastien Bouin
        La Rambla   9a+ 2019-03-16  Gonzalo Larrocha
        Papichulo   9a+ 2019-03-22       Margo Hayes
Stoking the fire    9b 2019-03-25        Sachi Amma
  All you can eat   9a+ 2019-03-29 Jonathan Siegrist
The ascents of "Life of Villains" are excluded since the route seems to have settled at 9a.

Have I missed something else?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on April 04, 2019, 09:12:20 am
Scroll down in the yellow box, and you see it
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: cowboyhat on April 05, 2019, 06:17:41 pm
[...] needs graphs.

(https://i.imgur.com/4G44j15.jpg)

According to this exactly no one my height has climbed 9a+.

Which kind of makes me feel better. Or lazy.

Both.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on June 04, 2019, 12:45:51 pm
To complete some of the tables, and before I start sending people weird messages on social media, does anyone has the height of any of the following climbers:

Alessandro Zeni, Andrew Palmer, Enzo Oddo, Eric Albertini, Gerard Rull, Gérôme Pouvreau, James Litz, John Gaskins, Kamil Ferenc, Luis Alfonso Felix, Markus Bock, Matty Hong, Sean Bailey, Shawn Raboutou, Silvio Reffo, Stefano Carnati, Toru Nakajima, and Tristan Chen

or the exact birthday of any of the following

Code: [Select]
--------------------------
Climber             Born 
------------------- ------
Alessandro Zeni     1991 

Bernabé Fernández   1974 

Eric Albertini      1986 

Gerard Rull         1988 

Jakub Konecny       1999 

Kamil Ferenc        1991 

Stefano Carnati     1998 

Tristan Chen        1996 


Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on July 01, 2019, 08:41:53 am
For the second quarter of 2019.

Code: [Select]
Name                 Grade   Climber             Date         Note                             
-------------------- ------- ------------------- ------------ ----------------------------------
Move                 9b/+    Sébastien Bouin     2019-06-17                                     
Fight or Flight      9b      Piotr Schab         2019-04-26                                     
La Planta de Shiva   9b      Jonathan Siegrist   2019-05-05                                     
La Planta de Shiva   9b      Jorge Diaz-Rullo    2019-05-28                                     
Mamichula            9b      Sébastien Bouin     2019-04-15                                     
El bon combat        9a+/b   Felipe Camargo      2019-04-19   Suggests 9b                       
No Pain No Gain      9a+     Jonatan Flor        2019-06-03   Exact date unknown to me         
Papichulo            9a+     Sébastien Bouin     2019-04-18                                     
Sweet Neuf           9a+     Cedric Lachat       2019-06-21   Not exact date. tentatively 9a/+ 

(Scroll down in the yellow box to see all ascents)

Anything missing?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on July 01, 2019, 06:06:38 pm
Seb pretty dominant there. Odd to see a list like that without Ondra.

Didn't Sachi Amma do something hard recently?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on July 01, 2019, 06:08:27 pm
Scrub that, he did stoking the fire, but at the and of march.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on July 01, 2019, 11:42:02 pm
Seb pretty dominant there. Odd to see a list like that without Ondra.


Olympics I guess, but still two routes ≥ 9b in three months is good going by anyone's standard...
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on July 14, 2019, 08:13:59 am
Jorge Díaz-Rullo has done the 17th repeat of Biographie, 9a+

Biographie is his 5th route ≥9a+ after  Ali Hulk (extension), Panorama (FA), Circo Iberico (FA), and La Planta de Shiva.

Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on July 18, 2019, 09:08:41 pm
Jonatan Flor has done one of the harder Ali Hulk thingies in Rodellar at 9a+

https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/jonatan-flor-encadena-ali-hulk-extension-total-9a-en-rodellar/

Flor has previously done Daniel Fuertes 9a+ "No Pain No Gain", also in Rodellar.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on July 30, 2019, 06:22:24 pm
Jonatan Flor has added the sitstart of Ali Hulk (sit start) to Ali Hulk (extension total) to make it Ali Hulk (extension total sit start) at 9b. This is his first 9b after having done two 9a+s (Ali Hulk (extension total) and No Pain No Gain). Source: https://fanatic-climbing.com/premier-9b-pour-jonatan-flor-first-9b-by-jonatan-flor/

There are twenty climbers having claimed 9b ascents (Fred Rouhling, Jonatan Flor, Dani Andrada, Magnus Midtbø, Adam Ondra, Alexander Megos, Chris Sharma, Jakob Schubert, Sachi Amma, Matty Hong, Piotr Schab, Stefano Ghisolfi, Ethan Pringle, Jonathan Siegrist, Pirmin Bertle, Daniel Woods, Angela Eiter, Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Sébastien Bouin and Steve McClure)
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on July 31, 2019, 10:12:29 am
Hugo Parmentier has done his first 9a+ with “La Moustache qui Fâche”, in Entraygues. La Moustache qui Fâche was first ascended by young prodigy Enzo Oddo in 2011, and has previously been repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2011.

Source: https://www.grimper.com/news-hugo-parmentier-coche-premier-9a-entraygues

There are currently 85 climbers who have claimed ascents of 9a+ or harder

Code: [Select]
Climber                    Routes   
-------------------------- ----
Adam Ondra                 59 
Chris Sharma               20 
Alexander Megos            17 
Stefano Ghisolfi           15 
Sachi Amma                 14 
Ramón Julián Puigblanqué   13 
Jakob Schubert             12 
Jonathan Siegrist          10 
Sébastien Bouin            10 
Piotr Schab                9   
Dani Andrada               5   
Daniel Woods               5   
Iker Pou                   5   
Jorge Díaz-Rullo           5   
Magnus Midtbø              5   
Pirmin Bertle              5   
Edu Marin                  4   
Enzo Oddo                  4   
Gérôme Pouvreau            4   
Jon Cardwell               4   
Matty Hong                 4   
Patxi Usobiaga             4   
Cédric Lachat              3   
Fred Rouhling              3   
Jonatan Flor               3   
Klemen Becan               3   
Margo Hayes                3   
Bernabé Fernández          2   
Daniel Jung                2   
Dave Graham                2   
David Firnenburg           2   
Ethan Pringle              2   
Felipe Camargo             2   
Felix Neumärker            2   
Gonzalo Larrocha           2   
Jernej Kruder              2   
Markus Bock                2   
Mateusz Haladaj            2   
Sean Bailey                2   
Stefano Carnati            2   
Steve McClure              2   
Alessandro Zeni            1   
Alexander Huber            1   
Anak Verhoeven             1   
Andreas Bindhammer         1   
Andrew Palmer              1   
Angela Eiter               1   
Arthur Kubista             1   
Baptiste Dherbilly         1   
Cedric Lachat              1   
Dai Koyamada               1   
Daniel Fuertes             1   
Danilo Pereyra             1   
David Gambús               1   
Dimitri Sharafutdinov      1   
Domen Skofic               1   
Eric Albertini             1   
Gabriele Moroni            1   
Gerard Rull                1   
Hugo Parmentier            1   
Jacopo Larcher             1   
Jakub Konecny              1   
James Litz                 1   
Jan Hojer                  1   
John Gaskins               1   
Kamil Ferenc               1   
Loïc Zehani                1   
Luis Alfonso Felix         1   
Mathieu Bouyoud            1   
Mike Foley                 1   
Pablo Barbero              1   
Paul Robinson              1   
Roland Hemetzberger        1   
Said Belhaj                1   
Sangwon Son                1   
Shawn Raboutou             1   
Silvio Reffo               1   
Stefan Schibli             1   
Sylvain Millet             1   
Tomas Ravanal              1   
Tommy Caldwell             1   
Toru Nakajima              1   
Tristan Chen               1   
Vasya Vorotnikov           1   
Yuji Hirayama              1 
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Doylo on July 31, 2019, 10:52:26 am
What became of Enzo Oddo? Another future beast no longer in the future.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on July 31, 2019, 11:46:52 am
He became tall?


(Last time I read something was in 2017 when it was said (by Kevin Aglaé e.g.) that he was still very strong and climbed exceptionally well on long routes, and that he really disliked climbing media.)

For those who can stomach climbing gossip (and who cannot?), see comments to this: https://www.facebook.com/argrimpol/photos/a.1545558352126728/1846078702074690/


Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Kingy on August 01, 2019, 08:27:08 am
What a shame, I guess he finds the 'fame' side of top end climbing hard to deal with. i remember seeing him in 2012 at Gorges du Loup trying to do a sit start to Punt X, an already desparate 9a, (like trying to link Keen Roof into Evo or summat).

Maybe he should take a leaf ouf of Ondra's book:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=PctwmQobu2E (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PctwmQobu2E)
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on August 01, 2019, 09:29:05 pm
Jonatan Flor has added the sitstart of Ali Hulk (sit start) to Ali Hulk (extension total) to make it Ali Hulk (extension total sit start) at 9b. This is his first 9b after having done two 9a+s (Ali Hulk (extension total) and No Pain No Gain). Source: https://fanatic-climbing.com/premier-9b-pour-jonatan-flor-first-9b-by-jonatan-flor/

Repeated by Jorge Díaz-Rullo the day after. https://www.instagram.com/p/B0oYkbGHv8I/
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on August 02, 2019, 10:40:26 am
The average height of the 67 9a+ climbers that I have this information for is now 173 cm. I lack reliable data on 18/85  climbers who have reported an 9a+ ascent.

(https://i.imgur.com/7y1hNlG.png)
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on August 08, 2019, 01:17:42 pm
Jonathan Guadalcazar has done his first 9a+, Viaje Morfo, a link-up between Viaje Astral and Morfologi in Tarbena.

Spain now has 15 climbers who have claimed a 9a+ ascent, while USA has 17 and Germany 10.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B05XYUGIwYW/
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on September 06, 2019, 11:50:59 am
A flurry of 9b first ascents the last fortnight

Code: [Select]
Name                         Grade   First.Ascensionist   FA.date      Area     
---------------------------- ------- -------------------- ------------ ----------
La Rage d'Adam               9b/+    Sébastien Bouin      2019-09-04   Verdon   
Apocalipsis de la Gioconda   9b      Jonatan Flor         2019-08-26   Rodellar 
Patanics                     9b      Jorge Díaz-Rullo     2019-08-26   Rodellar       

These climbers have claimed an ascent of 9b or harder
Code: [Select]
             Climber  No of routes
1         Adam Ondra 23
2       Chris Sharma  7
3   Stefano Ghisolfi  6
4     Jakob Schubert  4
5    Alexander Megos  3
6   Jorge Díaz-Rullo  3
7         Sachi Amma  3
8    Sébastien Bouin  3
9       Dani Andrada  2
10      Jonatan Flor  2
11 Jonathan Siegrist  2
12      Angela Eiter  1
13      Daniel Woods  1
14     Ethan Pringle  1
15     Fred Rouhling  1
16     Magnus Midtbø  1
17        Matty Hong  1
18       Piotr Schab  1
19     Pirmin Bertle  1
20     Steve McClure  1
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: bigironhorse on September 22, 2019, 04:23:51 pm
 Ondra has made the second ascent of Qui in Tyrol. Graded 9a by FA, Ondra seems to suggest 9a/+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2qyzpGp3Le/?igshid=hfsdjqvfib6x
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on September 22, 2019, 05:22:12 pm
Ondra has made the second ascent of Qui in Tyrol. Graded 9a by FA, Ondra seems to suggest 9a/+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2qyzpGp3Le/?igshid=hfsdjqvfib6x

9a/+ doesn't quite cut it. Also, I did not quite understand from that post + article in Grimper how much breakage affects the grade.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on October 07, 2019, 09:27:51 pm
Loïc Zehani (17 years) has done his project in, Orgon, adding a harder exit version of his own route “Le Poisson pilote” 9a+  to create “Obsession” 9b.

https://fanatic-climbing.com/loic-zehani-propose-obsession-9b-loic-zehani-proposes-obsession-9b/
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on October 08, 2019, 08:33:18 am
 What's with the drilled holds? From a previous era?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Kingy on October 08, 2019, 08:37:07 am
I think the thinking goes a bit along the lines that virtually the rest of Orgon is drilled so what's a few drilled pockets between friends on this new one. A retrograde step IMO. (Its not clear whether these drilled holds are new or old.)
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on October 10, 2019, 09:50:40 pm
I have asked around. Apparently the drilled pockets is not the only thing that is controversial about this ascent. Unless irrefutable proof of him having the required level for 9b appears I will strike Zehani from the list.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: duncan on November 04, 2019, 10:35:49 am
Cedric Lachat has joined  the La Rambla club, conveniently allowing him and his harem to leave early and letting us to take over their penthouse suite.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on November 07, 2019, 03:32:11 pm
Anak Verhoven has repeated Joe Mama in Oliana, a route that apparently has gotten more solid in the grade (9a+) since a hold broke on top.

https://www.grimper.com/news-joe-mama-9a-anak-verhoeven
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on November 07, 2019, 03:40:35 pm
This her second of the grade isn't it?
Ig post with some details in English :
https://www.instagram.com/p/B4kQ00OD6yP/?igshid=vip4yf5suwhx
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on November 07, 2019, 04:49:57 pm
This her second of the grade isn't it?
yup. She did the FA of Sweet Neuf in Presles which is unrepeated (unless the Dark Horse of Provence hasn't climbed it)
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on November 07, 2019, 05:34:48 pm
I have the following ascents for September, October and the first week of November:

Code: [Select]
Name                         Grade   Climber            Date         Note                                 
---------------------------- ------- ------------------ ------------ --------------------------------------
La Rage d'Adam               9b/+    Sébastien Bouin    2019-09-04                                         
Ali Hulk (extension total)   9a+     Alex Garriga       2019-09-28                                         
Following the Leader         9a+     Jorge Díaz-Rullo   2019-10-16   Claims 9a+/b after breakage           
Patanics                     9b      Sébastien Bouin    2019-10-30   Says 9a+ or 9a/a+                     
La Rambla                    9a+     Cedric Lachat      2019-11-01                                         
Joe Mama                     9a+     Anak Verhoeven     2019-11-07   More solid 9a+ after recent breakage 
No Pain No Gain              9a+     Sébastien Bouin    2019-11-07   3 attempts, says 9a                   

I have been very busy, so it's likely that I've missed stuff.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on November 07, 2019, 07:35:42 pm
Ondra thought Qui was closer to 9a+ in its current state, not enough to get him on the list?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: abarro81 on November 07, 2019, 07:40:50 pm
I thought Lachat repeated Sweet Neuf?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: remus on November 07, 2019, 08:45:02 pm
I thought Lachat repeated Sweet Neuf?

That was end of june I believe. ed: whoops, just seen you meant in reference to it being unrepeated.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on November 07, 2019, 09:14:45 pm
I thought Lachat repeated Sweet Neuf?
Ahh... yes your right. My brain is suffering from dystrophy with all the mindless work.
I even have it listed here https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on December 04, 2019, 07:09:19 am
Sindre Sæther, the Romsdal local and madcap who freed The Arch Wall on the Troll wall has joined the 5.15 club with a repeat of Chilam Bilam, 9a/b.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: HaeMeS on December 04, 2019, 08:03:33 am
A newcomer to the list and a second of the grade:

Cody Roth: https://www.climbing.com/people/cody-roth-the-undercover-5-15-crusher-following-his-own-path/
Anak Verhoeven: https://www.grimper.com/news-joe-mama-9a-anak-verhoeven
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on December 05, 2019, 06:54:55 pm
A newcomer to the list and a second of the grade:

Cody Roth: https://www.climbing.com/people/cody-roth-the-undercover-5-15-crusher-following-his-own-path/

Me, I eat dust was widely reported as 9a and is in a secret location in Texas. At some point it must have gotten upgraded by someone to 5.15a? As Rock & Ice (and Climbing Magazine) seems to have an editorial policy of adding half a grade to the guidebook grade for every route they mention I'm very sceptical. Unless it got upgraded by a repeater I'm not sure it belongs on a list of 9a+ routes? Does anyone know?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: owensum on December 05, 2019, 10:33:13 pm
A newcomer to the list and a second of the grade:

Cody Roth: https://www.climbing.com/people/cody-roth-the-undercover-5-15-crusher-following-his-own-path/

Me, I eat dust was widely reported as 9a and is in a secret location in Texas. At some point it must have gotten upgraded by someone to 5.15a? As Rock & Ice (and Climbing Magazine) seems to have an editorial policy of adding half a grade to the guidebook grade for every route they mention I'm very sceptical. Unless it got upgraded by a repeater I'm not sure it belongs on a list of 9a+ routes? Does anyone know?

Longtime lurker here. I know Cody a bit from time in New Mexico. He did retroactively upgrade the route, I believe there's a post somewhere floating around on social media where he explains that.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on December 06, 2019, 05:23:24 am
thx! wadded
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on December 21, 2019, 10:34:24 am
Seb Bouin has freed The Dream, 9b, in Albania. Not a bad year for France's best rock climber

Code: [Select]
Name             Grade   Area        Country   Date         Note                                   
---------------- ------- ----------- --------- ------------ ----------------------------------------
Pachamama        9a+     Oliana      Spain     2019-03-05                                           
Mamichula        9b      Oliana      Spain     2019-04-15                                           
Papichulo        9a+     Oliana      Spain     2019-04-18                                           
Move             9b/+    Flatanger   Norway    2019-06-17                                           
La Rage d'Adam   9b/+    Verdon      France    2019-09-04                                           
Patanics         9a+     Rodellar    Spain     2019-10-30   Downgraded from 9b. Says 9a+ or easier 
The Dream        9b                  Albania   2019-12-16   Bolted by A. Ondra                     
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Ru on December 21, 2019, 06:22:48 pm
Not that many people get to do the FA of projects bolted by Ondra.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on December 21, 2019, 07:33:24 pm
Got to be one of the best looking really hard routes around

And what a year for Seb, anyone ever had better apart from Ondra?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on December 21, 2019, 10:42:23 pm

And what a year for Seb, anyone ever had better apart from Ondra?

If the criterium is number of routes ≥ 9a+ per year, this is the current standings:
Code: [Select]
                     Climber Year  Routes
1                 Adam Ondra 2017 11
2                 Adam Ondra 2018 10
3                 Adam Ondra 2013  9
4                 Adam Ondra 2011  8
5            Sébastien Bouin 2019  7
6                 Sachi Amma 2015  6
7                 Adam Ondra 2016  5
8           Jorge Díaz-Rullo 2019  5
9           Stefano Ghisolfi 2017  5
10           Alexander Megos 2016  4
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on December 22, 2019, 09:28:03 am
Standings in a nicer format
Code: [Select]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Climber      Year   N    Routes                                         
------------ ------ ---- -----------------------------------------------
Adam Ondra   2017   11   Silence (9c), Lapsus (9b), Mamichula (9b),     
                         Move Hard (9b), One Slap (9b), Queen Line     
                         (9b), Naturalmente (9a+), One Punch (9a+),     
                         Pachamama (9a+), Thor's Hammer R2 (9a+),       
                         Ultimatum (9a+)                               

Adam Ondra   2018   10   Disbelief (9b), Eagle 4 (9b), High Line       
                         (9a+/b), Czech Trip (9a+), La Castagne (9a+), 
                         Meiose (9a+), Sacrifice (9a+), Stone           
                         Butterfly (9a+), Super Crackinette (9a+),     
                         Underground > Pure dreaming (9a+)             

Adam Ondra   2013   9    La Dura Dura (9b+), Vasil Vasil (9b+), Move   
                         (9b/+), Fight or Flight (9b), Iron Curtain     
                         (9b), Torture physique (9a+/b), Hellracer     
                         (9a+), Kangoroo's Limb (9a+), Power Inverter   
                         (9a+)                                         

Adam Ondra   2011   8    Chaxiraxi (9b), La Capella (9b), La Planta de 
                         Shiva (9b), Chaxi (9a+), Chilam Balam (9a+),   
                         Obrint el sistema (9a+), Overshadow (9a+),     
                         Perlorodka (9a+)                               

Sébastien    2019   7    La Rage d'Adam (9b/+), Move (9b/+), Mamichula 
Bouin                    (9b), The Dream (9b), Pachamama (9a+),         
                         Papichulo (9a+), Patanics (9a+)               

Sachi Amma   2015   6    Fight or Flight (9b), Catxasa (9a+), Jungle   
                         Boogie (9a+), Power Inverter (9a+), Seleccio   
                         Anal (9a+), Tinipi (9a+)                       

Adam Ondra   2016   5    Robin úd (9b), Stoking the fire (9b),         
                         Viscious circle (9a+/b), 120 Degrees (9a+),   
                         Hyper finale (9a+)                             

Jorge        2019   5    Ali Hulk (extension total sit start) (9b), La 
Díaz-Rullo               Planta de Shiva (9b), Following the Leader     
                         (9a+/b), Biographie/Realization (9a+),         
                         Patanics (9a+)                                 

Stefano      2017   5    First Round First Minute (9b), One Slap (9b), 
Ghisolfi                 First Ley (9a+), La Rambla (9a+), One Punch   
                         (9a+)                                         

Alexander    2016   4    Fight Club (9b), Becoming (9a+), First Ley     
Megos                    (9a+), Super Crackinette (9a+)   
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: SA Chris on December 23, 2019, 08:56:55 am
Top ten recent climbing performances, with Ondra taking up 5 of those..
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on December 23, 2019, 12:43:29 pm
Stefano Carnati has repeated Demencia Senil 9a+ in Margalef. His 3rd of the grade after Goldrake and Biographie https://www.planetmountain.com/it/notizie/arrampicata/stefano-carnati-fast-and-furious-demencia-senil-9a-piu-margalef.html
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on December 29, 2019, 08:07:44 am
Stefano Ghisolfi has done "Stoking the Fire", 9b, in Santa Linya for his 7th route 9b or harder
Code: [Select]
Name                       Grade   Area          Country   Date       
-------------------------- ------- ------------- --------- ------------
Lapsus                     9b      Andonno       Italy     2015-11-02 
First Round First Minute   9b      Margalef      Spain     2017-01-30 
One Slap                   9b      Arco          Italy     2017-11-22 
La Capella                 9b      Siurana       Spain     2018-12-01 
Perfecto Mundo             9b+     Margalef      Spain     2018-12-05 
Queen Line                 9b      Arco          Italy     2019-02-26 
Stoking the fire           9b      Santa Linya   Spain     2019-12-28 

Ghisolfi did the 5th known ascent of the route
Code: [Select]
Climber            Gender   Height   Date       
------------------ -------- -------- ------------
Chris Sharma       M        184      2013-02-06 
Adam Ondra         M        185      2016-02-19 
Jakob Schubert     M        173      2018-01-05 
Sachi Amma         M        172      2019-03-25 
Stefano Ghisolfi   M        170      2019-12-28 

Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on December 29, 2019, 08:30:19 am
Mildly off topic, you have Sharma as 1.84m tall, where does that info come from? Just curious as I don't remember him being that tall, although the only time I've seen him in the flesh was briefly and a long time ago.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on December 29, 2019, 08:47:27 am
Alas, I did a big mistake when I compiled the height of climbers, and did not include a column for the source... So I cannot check this quickly.

Wikipedia has him listed as 6 foot (183 cm), for which they have an iffy source. I have the impression that he is a bit taller than me so that doesn't seem too strange.

Lots of the data on height comes from climbers IFSC pages, and as that is self-reported the heights are likely slightly exaggerated on average. (It is well known that people are amazingly willing to fib about their height and weight.)
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on December 29, 2019, 10:03:24 am
Could well be correct, I just remembered thinking he was smaller than I expected! That said, he looks fairly similar in height to Ondra in this pic :
https://images.app.goo.gl/cTyXmkt8A3vPXJtL9 (https://images.app.goo.gl/cTyXmkt8A3vPXJtL9)
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: remus on December 29, 2019, 04:33:12 pm
Lots of the data on height comes from climbers IFSC pages, and as that is self-reported the heights are likely slightly exaggerated on average. (It is well known that people are amazingly willing to fib about their height and weight.)

Fun little anecdote from the lattice database: with the self reported heights we gather, there's a big spike in the distribution at 183cm (...=6ft)!
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on December 29, 2019, 04:49:59 pm
Lots of the data on height comes from climbers IFSC pages, and as that is self-reported the heights are likely slightly exaggerated on average. (It is well known that people are amazingly willing to fib about their height and weight.)

Fun little anecdote from the lattice database: with the self reported heights we gather, there's a big spike in the distribution at 183cm (...=6ft)!

haha! I suppose you've seen this curiously non-normal distribution:
(https://miro.medium.com/max/976/0*ZHqkmVyBZsqG69cg.png)

https://theblog.okcupid.com/the-big-lies-people-tell-in-online-dating-a9e3990d6ae2
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: tomtom on December 29, 2019, 04:54:42 pm
Clearly short men don’t need dating sites as much.

Obvs. Yet another bit of SCIENCE outlining how hard life is for non short people. 😃
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on January 03, 2020, 10:08:25 am
Jonathan Guadalcázar has created a 9b by traversing the entire roof section in Crevillente. Ataxia hiperextension is an extension of Ataxia extension (9a+) which is an extension of Ataxia which is a link-up of five routes.

https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/jonathan-guadalcazar-salta-al-9b-con-ataxia-hiperextension-en-crevillente/

Well, as they don't have much rock suitable for climbing in Spain, I think we have to accept this one and stuff like Ali Baba as genuine routes.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on January 10, 2020, 04:55:56 pm
Jonatan Flor has just repeated Jonathan Guadalcázar's Viaje Morfo in Taberna and suggest a downgrade from 9a+ to 8c. (The harshest downgrade I've heard of since Sasha Diguilians's Rolihlahla got downgraded from 9a to 8b.) Viaje Morfo is a link-up between two 9a, so that makes you wonder what's going on?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: petejh on January 10, 2020, 06:27:12 pm
Is Taberna an area planned for inclusion in a forthcoming Yorkshire guidebook?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on January 20, 2020, 04:28:27 pm
Hugo Parmentier has done his first 9b, Adam Ondra's Eagle 4 in Saint Léger du Ventoux, having only done one route 9a+ or harder before (Enzo Oddo's La Moustache qui fâche).

Cedric Lachat has done Pachamama, his 6th and hardest 9a+ so far. As he has already done Papichulo before, Mamichulo is surely on....
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Ru on January 20, 2020, 05:30:40 pm
Jonatan Flor has just repeated Jonathan Guadalcázar's Viaje Morfo in Taberna and suggest a downgrade from 9a+ to 8c. (The harshest downgrade I've heard of since Sasha Diguilians's Rolihlahla got downgraded from 9a to 8b.) Viaje Morfo is a link-up between two 9a, so that makes you wonder what's going on?

All, or almost all, of his hard routes of 8c+ and above are first ascents, are at only 2-3 lesser-known crags and his very hardest routes are link-ups of his own routes. Easy to lose objectivity.

Also, can Gabri Moroni get a special prize for redpointing Demencia Senil next to a creche and with some idiot trying to park a van beneath him at the same time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POiBrpixles (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POiBrpixles)
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Nike Air on January 20, 2020, 07:12:06 pm
You are Spot on there Rupert. What a faff with that in the mix of a hard redpoint. Lad did well to zone in on the climbing
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on January 21, 2020, 12:33:59 pm
Eagle 4 in Saint Léger du Ventoux

It has been pointed out to me that the route is called "Eagle-4". It's a word play. Karma to anyone who figure it out.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Doylo on January 21, 2020, 01:29:02 pm
You are Spot on there Rupert. What a faff with that in the mix of a hard redpoint. Lad did well to zone in on the climbing

That video sums up why I hate people and feel gutted when I turn up to the crag and someone’s there.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: tc on January 21, 2020, 01:58:47 pm
Eagle 4 in Saint Léger du Ventoux

It has been pointed out to me that the route is called "Eagle-4". It's a word play. Karma to anyone who figure it out.

Something to do with pulling hard maybe?
"Tirez fort"?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on January 21, 2020, 04:55:16 pm
It has been pointed out to me that the route is called "Eagle-4". It's a word play. Karma to anyone who figure it out.

Something to do with pulling hard maybe?
"Tirez fort"?

4 = [fɔr] in US english ≈ [fɔʀ] fort is correct. The hyphen is called trait in French. Keep trying, took me a while. Hint: pronounce "Eagle" with the thickest french accent you can possibly imagine, then make it even thicker.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: tc on January 21, 2020, 05:39:58 pm
 Intriguing. I thought a hyphen was a "tiret" in French, hence "tirez fort".
I'll have a longer think about it...😁
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: petejh on January 21, 2020, 05:50:04 pm
Equal force or equal strength?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: teestub on January 21, 2020, 06:15:00 pm

4 = [fɔr] in US english ≈ [fɔʀ] fort is correct. The hyphen is called trait in French. Keep trying, took me a while. Hint: pronounce "Eagle" with the thickest french accent you can possibly imagine, then make it even thicker.

So something like ‘ee gool’ tres fort? Can’t work out what the first bit would be.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: tc on January 21, 2020, 07:01:46 pm
ego très fort?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on January 21, 2020, 08:10:02 pm
You're almost there: eagle ≈ y gueule (= il gueule), thus Eagle-4 = y gueule très fort = 'e yells very loud. Genius work by Elie Morieux to give the route to Adam Ondra and then call it Eagle-4.

I admit, it took me forever to figure out, even knowing that it was a pun.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: SA Chris on January 22, 2020, 09:06:28 am
Well done working it out, I had an inkling it was along those lines, but failed.

Tom Et Je Ris is about my level.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: duncan on January 22, 2020, 09:42:39 am
That's brilliant. I was thinking along the same lines as Pete.

Love a French pun but I need help with anything harder than Le rosé est le vin impure
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on January 22, 2020, 11:39:55 am
David Firnenburg has repeated Papichulo as his third 9a+. The most repeated 9a+ routes are
Code: [Select]
                             Name Grade        Country  N
1                       La Rambla   9a+          Spain 27
2                       Papichulo   9a+          Spain 22
3          Biographie/Realization   9a+         France 18
4                       Pachamama   9a+          Spain  9
5                        Joe Mama   9a+          Spain  8
6                         Catxasa   9a+          Spain  7
7                         Jaws II   9a+  United States  7
8                   Seleccio Anal   9a+          Spain  7
9            Ali Hulk (extension)   9a+          Spain  6
10                   Chilam Balam   9a+          Spain  6
11                         Corona   9a+        Germany  6
12                      First Ley   9a+          Spain  6
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: duncan on January 24, 2020, 09:49:51 am
Hugo Parmentier has done his first 9b, Adam Ondra's Eagle 4 in Saint Léger du Ventoux, having only done one route 9a+ or harder before (Enzo Oddo's La Moustache qui fâche).

Interview on Fanatic climbing (http://fanatic-climbing.com/interview-hugo-parmentier-revient-sur-eagle-4-9b-hugo-parmentier-about-eagle-4-9b/)
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 07, 2020, 11:48:26 am
Jonatan Flor has just repeated Jonathan Guadalcázar's Viaje Morfo in Taberna and suggest a downgrade from 9a+ to 8c. (The harshest downgrade I've heard of since Sasha Diguilians's Rolihlahla got downgraded from 9a to 8b.) Viaje Morfo is a link-up between two 9a, so that makes you wonder what's going on?

The former prodigy Edu Marin, for one, is not impressed and blames it on social media https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/edu-marin-y-la-etica-de-la-escalada/
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 08, 2020, 12:24:46 pm
Seb Bouin has done Joe Mama in Oliana but doesn't seem to think it is 9a+, even after breakage.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 08, 2020, 02:12:12 pm
The trimestrial update of https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv

How tall is Will Bosi?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 08, 2020, 03:55:11 pm
No, I think that list is just pulled from 99boulders.com as stated, as it mixes routes and traverses, has no dates for the ascents and use non-french approved grades.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: remus on February 09, 2020, 09:06:12 am
How tall is Will Bosi?

Haven't measured him properly but just asked Tom: "About 5ft9 [175cm]"
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 09, 2020, 10:38:50 am
Taller than your average 9a+ climber.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 10, 2020, 02:00:27 pm
Seb Bouin has done Catxasa in Santa Linya, but says that it is not 9a+ with knee pads. If so, Jakub Konecny is the only repeater of Catxasa who risks dropping out from the 9a+ club, as the other repeaters have all done lots of 9a+s or harder.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on February 10, 2020, 02:53:07 pm
Are there any 9th grade routes (apart from his own and Ondra's) that Seb hasn't suggested downgrading?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 10, 2020, 03:21:38 pm
Are there any 9th grade routes (apart from his own and Ondra's) that Seb hasn't suggested downgrading?

 :lol:

Everyone else on the scene must think hes a total nobhead, constantly downgrading their hardest routes...
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Bradders on February 10, 2020, 05:30:39 pm
Seb Bouin has done Catxasa in Santa Linya, but says that it is not 9a+ with knee pads. If so, Jakub Konecny is the only repeater of Catxasa who risks dropping out from the 9a+ club, as the other repeaters have all done lots of 9a+s or harder.

Isn't that just willy waving?

If he's the only one suggesting a downgrade, and the others to repeat it are all well rounded at the grade and above, surely he's the one whose gradar is malfunctioning.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 10, 2020, 07:52:08 pm
Everyone complains about soft grades, but no one wants to do anything about it
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 17, 2020, 10:10:32 pm
(https://i.imgur.com/0Y8OtWv.gif)
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: SA Chris on February 18, 2020, 09:40:50 am
(weather + rock) x cheapness ^ wads being there = Spain
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: HaeMeS on February 18, 2020, 10:19:23 am
(weather + rock) x cheapness ^ wads being there = Spain = lucky bastards
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on February 22, 2020, 02:39:59 pm
Can we change Swiss (shudder) to Switzerland? Or Schweiz, or Suisse? Or at least Swiss Confederation?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 22, 2020, 03:27:22 pm
Yeah, and Czech to Czech republic... Sorry
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Coops_13 on February 22, 2020, 04:13:17 pm
Yeah, and Czech to Czech republic... Sorry
or is it Czechia?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on February 24, 2020, 04:44:01 pm
Seb Bouin has done Catxasa in Santa Linya, but says that it is not 9a+ with knee pads. If so, Jakub Konecny is the only repeater of Catxasa who risks dropping out from the 9a+ club, as the other repeaters have all done lots of 9a+s or harder.

Edu Marin agrees https://www.instagram.com/p/B86qzlYKE1w/
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Steve Crowe on February 25, 2020, 07:27:03 am
All the beta for Pachamama 9a+  by Cedric Lachat

https://youtu.be/Vgdd7OnOv-4
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: SA Chris on February 25, 2020, 09:00:26 am
Bastard ruined my onsight.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: dunnyg on February 25, 2020, 10:19:40 am
Someone will still probably give you some free shoes if you flash it.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: SA Chris on February 25, 2020, 11:27:05 am
Don't want shoes, I do it for personal glory.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: dunnyg on February 25, 2020, 11:29:43 am
I'll have them then  :great:
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: duncan on February 29, 2020, 08:07:06 pm
Piotr Schab: Joe Mama
https://www.instagram.com/p/B9FW73lpU2c/?igshid=qjl7w1wo5nsv
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on March 07, 2020, 10:04:06 am
According to Escalar Jorge Diaz-Rouleau has also repeated "Joe Mama".
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on March 13, 2020, 08:27:37 pm
Julia Chanourdie has done the third repeat of Alex Megos's route Supercrackinette, 9a+, in Saint-Leger-du-Ventoux and joins the quite exclusive club of female 5.15-climbers. Apart from Chanourdie, Adam Ondra (flash) and Gérome Pouvreau has also repeated the route. Not a bad list...
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on March 14, 2020, 12:52:43 pm
Code: [Select]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date         Climber            Name                     Grade   Area                   
------------ ------------------ ------------------------ ------- ------------------------
2017-02-26   Margo Hayes        La Rambla                9a+     Siurana                 

2017-09-24   Margo Hayes        Biographie/Realization   9a+     Céüse                   

2017-10      Angela Eiter       La Planta de Shiva       9b      Villanueva del         
                                                                 Rosario                 

2019-03-22   Margo Hayes        Papichulo                9a+     Oliana                 

2019-11-07   Anak Verhoeven     Joe Mama                 9a+     Oliana                 

2020-03-13   Julia Chanourdie   Super Crackinette        9a+     Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are currently four women who have done undisputed 9a+ routes. Margo Hayes has done three, Anak Verhoven has done between none and two—depending on where Sweet Neuf (currently 9a/a+) and Joe Mama (9a or 9a+) ends up on the scale—, Angel Eiter one (9b actually), and Julia Chanourdie one.

If 9a/a+ count, Josune Beriziartu was the first with Bimbaluna in 2005 and Ashima Shirashi was the second (?) with Open your mind Direct in 2015 (with reservation that I understand nothing of what's happening in the overhanging choss pile in Santa Linya). Anak Verhoven could ad a few more to her tally as well.

For lists of hard female sends these are the only list I have found:
Up until 2015:
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liste_des_r%C3%A9alisations_f%C3%A9minines_en_escalade_sportive_au-dessus_du_niveau_8c
Up to right about now:
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/du-cote-des-filles.php
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on March 19, 2020, 09:47:36 am
Video of Julia Chanourdie climbing Super Crackinette https://www.instagram.com/p/B944QjrpnT8/
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on April 10, 2020, 12:32:46 pm
And another one from St Leger.  Hugo Parmentier on Eagle-4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNGIkEvXZlk
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Rob F on April 10, 2020, 06:03:08 pm
Anyone done 9a+ on their fingerboard yet???
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: ferret on April 10, 2020, 08:05:33 pm
Anyone done 9a+ on their fingerboard yet???
Imagine the controversy when somebody repeats it but crimps a hold you are supposed to open hand!
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on July 18, 2020, 08:17:26 pm
More than half of the year has passed, so far I have noted 18 ascents of 9a+ or harder. Five more climbers added to the list: William Bosi, Julia Chanourdie, Laura Rogora, Jose Luis Palao and Davide Picco.

Scroll down the yellow box for all ascents. Are there some I've missed? Scandals? Rumours? Is Qui really 9a+?
Code: [Select]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date         Climber            Name                     Grade   Area                     Note                                       
------------ ------------------ ------------------------ ------- ------------------------ --------------------------------------------
2020-01-18   David Firnenburg   Papichulo                9a+     Oliana                                                               

2020-01-18   Hugo Parmentier    Eagle 4                  9b      Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux                                               

2020-01-19   Cédric Lachat      Pachamama                9a+     Oliana                   Exact date not known.                       

2020-02-05   William Bosi       La Capella               9b      Siurana                  Only 3 days                                 

2020-02-07   Cédric Lachat      Joe Mama                 9a+     Oliana                   Says easy 9a+                               

2020-02-07   Sébastien Bouin    Joe Mama                 9a+     Oliana                   Says 9a(+) on instagram                     

2020-02-09   Sébastien Bouin    Catxasa                  9a+     Santa Linya              Says 9a with knee-pads. Edu Marin agrees.                     

2020-03-01   Piotr Schab        Joe Mama                 9a+     Oliana                                                               

2020-03-07   Jorge Díaz-Rullo   Joe Mama                 9a+     Oliana                                                               

2020-03-13   Julia Chanourdie   Super Crackinette        9a+     Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux                                               

2020-05      Alessandro Zeni    Cryptography             9b      Saint-Loup               Link-up between Bain de sang and Bimbaluna 

2020-05-29   Laura Rogora       Pure Dreaming plus       9a+     Arco                                                                 

2020-06-13   Sébastien Bouin    Biographie/Realization   9a+     Céüse                                                               

2020-06-14   Jose Luis Palao    Mona Lisa Integral       9a+     Rodellar                                                             

2020-06-29   Jose Luis Palao    Apocalipsis de la        9a+     Rodellar                 Downgraded to 9a+ from 9b                   
                                Gioconda                                                                                             

2020-07-06   Stefano Carnati    Jungle Boogie            9a+     Céüse                                                               

2020-07-11   Davide Picco       Pure Dreaming plus       9a+     Arco                                                                 

2020-07-13   Stefano Ghisolfi   The Bow                  9a+     Arco                                                                 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on October 14, 2020, 08:43:54 pm
I have made a small website for the 9a+ list at https://semicontinuous.shinyapps.io/FiveFifteen/

If I have time and energy I will add more graphs etc. Suggestions welcome.

I have the "database", as it were on https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv
If someone like to help me update the file more than biannually, that would be most appreciated.

Since last time, I have noted the following ascents:

Code: [Select]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date         Climber            Name                Grade   Area              Note                                           
------------ ------------------ ------------------- ------- ----------------- -----------------------------------------------
2020-07-25   Laura Rogora       Ali Hulk            9b      Rodellar                                                         
                                (extension total                                                                             
                                sit start)                                                                                   

2020-08-05   Alexander Megos    Bibliographie       9c      Céüse                                                           

2020-08-16   Jorge Díaz-Rullo   Las Meninas R2      9a+/b   Rodellar                                                         

2020-08-18   Jorge Díaz-Rullo   Apocalipsis de la   9a+     Rodellar          Agrees with 9a+                               
                                Gioconda                                                                                     

2020-08-20   Jonatan Flor       Las Meninas R2      9a+/b   Rodellar                                                         

2020-08-28   Sébastien Bouin    La Moustache qui    9a+     Entraygues                                                       
                                fâche                                                                                       

2020-09-01   Pierre Le Cerf     Punt X              9a+     Gorges du Loup    First ascent after major hold breakages       

2020-09-07   Alexander Megos    L'étrange ivresse   9a+     Céüse             Claims 9a/b and much harder than other 9a+ at 
                                des lenteurs                                  Céüse                                         

2020-09-14   Dani Fuertes       Ali Hulk            9a+     Rodellar                                                         
                                (extension total)                                                                           

2020-09-20   Dani Fuertes       Ali Hulk            9b      Rodellar                                                         
                                (extension total                                                                             
                                sit start)                                                                                   

2020-09-23   Álex Garriga       Seta ibérica        9a+     Cuenca                                                           

2020-09-28   Stefano Ghisolfi   Change              9b+     Flatanger                                                       

2020-09-28   Jorge Díaz-Rullo   El bon combat       9a+/b   Cova de           Suggests 9b                                   
                                                            l'Ocell–Sant                                                     
                                                            Miquel del Fai                                                   

2020-09-28   Dave Graham        Ali Hulk (fin de    9a+     Rodellar                                                         
                                extension total                                                                             
                                sitstart)                                                                                   

2020-09-29   Dave Graham        Ali Hulk            9b      Rodellar                                                         
                                (extension total                                                                             
                                sit start)                                                                                   

2020-09-29   Hyunbin Min        Soul Rock Dance     9b      'Near Seoul'      FA previously hardest route 9a.               

2020-09-30   Enrique Gallardo   Ali Hulk            9a+     Rodellar                                                         
                                (extension)                                                                                 

2020-10-06   Dani Fuertes       Ali Hulk (fin de    9a+     Rodellar                                                         
                                extension total                                                                             
                                sitstart)                                                                                   

2020-10-11   Anatole Bosio      Aubade directe      9a+     Montagne                                                         
                                                            Sainte-Victoire                                                 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Did I miss something? Was there maybe a linkup in the Ali Baba cave that evaded my extreme enthusiasm for link-ups?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on October 14, 2020, 10:08:13 pm
Should the boulder problem starts to routes really count? [/grumpy old man]
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: petejh on October 14, 2020, 10:17:18 pm
If someone managed one of the hard links with bolted top-outs in Parisellas - say Dorsal Stream into the bolted finish of Bonnie Extension at 9a+ - then I’d say it was relevant.

So yes.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: remus on October 14, 2020, 10:47:30 pm
I have the "database", as it were on https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv
If someone like to help me update the file more than biannually, that would be most appreciated.

I'll keep an eye out, though Im not so up to date with stuff outside the UK. What's the best way to contribute? Pull request on github?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on October 15, 2020, 07:55:02 am
I have the "database", as it were on https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv
If someone like to help me update the file more than biannually, that would be most appreciated.

I'll keep an eye out, though Im not so up to date with stuff outside the UK. What's the best way to contribute? Pull request on github?

I added you as a contributor (assuming you are bourbonspecial who owns the UK lists).

Posting on this thread helps a bit as well. Normally I just read through Desnivel and Grimper and hope that they haven't missed anything. I'm not sure it will work in the future though... grimper don't recon 9a+ ascents are significant if they are not done by women, children or frenchmen.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: remus on October 16, 2020, 09:01:00 pm
I added you as a contributor (assuming you are bourbonspecial who owns the UK lists).

Thanks  :great:

How attached are you to the IDs on each row? Im finding it quite tricky to edit the file with them included (I tried the program linked in the README but struggling to get it to work, probably me being stupid, I couldnt work out how to add a new line...)
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: submaximal gains on October 19, 2020, 11:31:23 am
Carlo Traversi has done the first ascent of a 9a+ called Empath in Tahoe

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGYCIwUlPdt/
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on October 19, 2020, 11:33:48 am
I added you as a contributor (assuming you are bourbonspecial who owns the UK lists).

Thanks  :great:

How attached are you to the IDs on each row? Im finding it quite tricky to edit the file with them included (I tried the program linked in the README but struggling to get it to work, probably me being stupid, I couldnt work out how to add a new line...)

the key field (first column) is just there because of lazy programming in R. you can put whatever there. or blank.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on October 19, 2020, 11:34:30 am
Carlo Traversi has done the first ascent of a 9a+ called Empath in Tahoe

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGYCIwUlPdt/

thx!
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: submaximal gains on October 19, 2020, 03:55:26 pm
Anatole Bosiohas climbed Aubade direct 9a+ at Sainte-Victoire, France

https://fanatic-climbing.com/troisieme-ascension-daubade-direct-9a-par-anatole-bosio-anatole-bosio-claims-third-ascent-of-aubade-direct-9a/
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: remus on October 19, 2020, 06:03:45 pm
Jonathan Siegrest has put up a new 9a+ https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/united-states/5g/sectors/white-wall-sector/routes/nu-world

He's said 9a+/b for him but put 9a+ on 8a.nu, so I guess 9a+ is closer to the mark.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Duma on October 19, 2020, 06:39:00 pm
Carlo Traversi has done the first ascent of a 9a+ called Empath in Tahoe

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGYCIwUlPdt/

Jimmy Webb has repeated it:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CGiHBPpMcVO/?igshid=lz2qyeqgv18o
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: remus on October 23, 2020, 07:06:24 am
Daniel woods has nipped in for another repeat of Empath https://www.instagram.com/p/CGpuWvtFF22/?igshid=1okh44q8mr2sw
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on October 23, 2020, 10:05:38 am
After having done his first 9a+ (Aubade directe) just a forthnight ago, Anatole Bosio has done his second 9a+ with Supercrackinette in Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on October 23, 2020, 03:54:48 pm
Seb Bouin, the world's strongest proponent of slash grades, has made the first ascent of “Beyond Integral” (9b/+), a project Fedric Ferraro bolted in Pic Saint Loup.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Wood FT on October 23, 2020, 07:13:39 pm
Fucking hate slash grades.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: danm on October 24, 2020, 11:48:02 am
Ye/ah, m/e to/o.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: andy_e on October 24, 2020, 11:59:33 am
Wasn't there a problem in North Wales that got given V8/+/9 or something?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: teestub on October 25, 2020, 05:03:42 pm
I see Nathaniel Coleman has joined the Empath crew, fastest 4 ascents of a new 9a+?!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGwW26ADg9K/?igshid=ji4auyznovhh
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on October 25, 2020, 05:33:01 pm
More ascents than Biographie during a spell with the Mistral blowing in June, or a longer line than at the base of La Rambla on a crispy February afternoon 🤨
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: moose on October 25, 2020, 07:48:09 pm
Wasn't there a problem in North Wales that got given V8/+/9 or something?

The old North Wales guide used to have a V8+ guide to compensate for a perceived asynchrony between the V and font systems (V8 = font 7b; V8+ = font 7b+; V9 = font 7c).
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on October 26, 2020, 07:15:21 am
I see Nathaniel Coleman has joined the Empath crew, fastest 4 ascents of a new 9a+?!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGwW26ADg9K/?igshid=ji4auyznovhh

previously fastest 4 ascents of a 9a+ or harder, days between the 4 ascents closest in time:
Code: [Select]
                                   Name        V1
 1:                            La Rambla   39 days
 2:                            Papichulo  104 days
 3:                             Joe Mama  121 days
 4:               Biographie/Realization  385 days
 5: Ali Hulk (extension total sit start)  428 days
 6:                        Seleccio Anal  460 days
 7:                              Catxasa  761 days
 8:                            Pachamama  792 days
 9:                            First Ley  850 days
10:                       Power Inverter 1809 days
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on October 27, 2020, 09:03:23 am
The limitations of keeping the data in a flat table is driving me nuts. Are there any good free online sql servers where I could store this tiny dataset?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: SA Chris on October 27, 2020, 09:09:53 am
More ascents than Biographie during a spell with the Mistral blowing in June, or a longer line than at the base of La Rambla on a crispy February afternoon 🤨

Secret venue, Mellow gang handshake to gain access.

Chin scratch.
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: remus on October 27, 2020, 09:30:39 am
The limitations of keeping the data in a flat table is driving me nuts. Are there any good free online sql servers where I could store this tiny dataset?

Perhaps an sqlite database could work? and if you want to make it available via github still you can set it up so you can get nice diffs still https://stackoverflow.com/questions/13271643/git-hook-for-diff-sqlite-table
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: remus on October 29, 2020, 06:04:25 am
The limitations of keeping the data in a flat table is driving me nuts. Are there any good free online sql servers where I could store this tiny dataset?

Perhaps an sqlite database could work? and if you want to make it available via github still you can set it up so you can get nice diffs still https://stackoverflow.com/questions/13271643/git-hook-for-diff-sqlite-table

Been thinking about this a bit more and the above solution would be a bit questy I reckon.

I haven't used them before but these people offer a free tier for postgresql hosting https://www.elephantsql.com/plans.html AWS has a 12 month free trial that includes a database server, and Google cloud platform gives you $300 credit when you sign up which would be enough for ~30 months of free usage on their smallest postgresql instance.

For managing the data, I thought a straightforward option could be to keep an SQL script in the git repo that tears down and rebuilds the database each time. Kind of funny as you'd be effectively storing all the data in the SQL file, bit given it's only a few hundred lines it'd be fine, and would make it nice and easy for other people to use (no need to worry about shared database access).
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: remus on October 29, 2020, 08:15:54 am
I got keen and set this up  :) I've pushed the script for creating the db to github.

jwi, have you got whatsapp or similar so I can send you login details for the database server?
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on October 29, 2020, 08:20:45 am
Yeah, I was thinking along the same lines. Added a tab for climbers to https://semicontinuous.shinyapps.io/FiveFifteen/

I would like to keep a record on the height of climbers, as well as their gender and nationality, but I am not at all sure that this would be compliant with GDPR

I got keen and set this up  :) I've pushed the script for creating the db to github.

jwi, have you got whatsapp or similar so I can send you login details for the database server?

very cool! I look in to this when I have more time.... busy days trying to convert my classes to online classes while trying to get in some climbing before being locked in for a month again....

You have a PM
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: Dexter on October 29, 2020, 10:53:17 am

I would like to keep a record on the height of climbers, as well as their gender and nationality, but I am not at all sure that this would be compliant with GDPR


Looks like if you contact the individuals where possible you would be ok with this. An interesting read on the topic here
https://www.gerrishlegal.com/legal-blog/2019/7/2/processing-publicly-available-data-what-are-your-obligations
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: submaximal gains on November 19, 2020, 04:34:11 pm
Seb Berthe has done supercrackinette, 9a+, at Saint-Léger

http://fanatic-climbing.com/seb-berthe-empoche-supercrackinette-9a-supercrackinette-9a-by-seb-berthe/
Title: Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
Post by: jwi on December 08, 2020, 02:39:55 pm
Jonathan Flor has done Planta de Shiva, 9b. https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/jonatan-flor-ha-sido-un-sueno-poder-hacer-la-planta-de-shiva-9b
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