[Durbs]

Hey all - been reading the threads here for a while, but this is my first post.

I've been climbing for a few years now (5 on-and-off), and recently have started getting more into bouldering.

Anyway - I don't think i have terrible technique, and my strength isn't too bad, i've even had a lesson with Mark Croxall which definitely helped, however I'm still stuck struggling around the V3's and V4's.

I try to go at least once a week, usually 2 (I climb at Craggy Island) but I'm still really struggling on their "easy" routes (They don't really grade the routes there, just Easy/Medium/Hard).

I've recently got a fingerboard which has massively improved my finger strength - but I'm starting to get a little disheartended with my lack of progress.

Am I expecting too much to be wanting to getting into V5s and above already?

Climbing I'm hovering around 6a/b - but does this have any relation to bouldering abilty?
What's likely to be my limiting factor - strength/technique?

[dave]

I would say don't get hung up on indoor grades, they aer meaningless at best, and a lot of indoor routes setters seem to grade harshley to try and look like a bigshot! chances are you're already climbing some stuff thats a decent standard.

other tips would be try and climb maybe more in a week (i.e. 2-3 sessions rather than 1-2), try and climb with people who are a little bit better than you are - pick up the technique and helps motivate/push yourself. also if you can get to a different wall/crag rather than just the same one all the time you'll diversify your skills and not risk only getting good at the particular type of thing/holds your local setters set. also try and look at what yourweekness might be, maybe you're not slapping enough, maybe its power, maybe footwork, maybe its just tenacity or execution  - climbing with others should help identify this.

but most of all enjoy it.

[Durbs]

Thanks

Definitely enjoying it, just mildy off-put by how ridiculously hard some of the "mediums" seem to be still

Being stuck in Surrey, we don't seem to have a great range of bouldering facilities (Though new Bouldering centre is opening up in Sutton) - Craggy, Surrey Uni (which ain't great) and er... that's it. Outside, it's Southern Sandstone (weather permitting) or a 2.5 hour slog down to Portland. So can't get that much variety in.
Some other people I met had suggested Craggy in particular is graded pretty harshly and is also very muscley climbing, so I take some heart in that.

My main area of weakness is open-holds/slopers - I just really suck at them. Is this likely to just be contact strength, or is there a technique at all?

[dave]

theres a certain amount of knack to holding slopers, to an extent, like keeping your weight right under them etc.

[Jaspersharpe]

Agree with Dave. On lower graded stuff in particular indoor grades can be all over the place. Climbing with my mate who's not been climbing long it highlights the grade disparity on a lot of the easier problems. I swear I did a problem on a 3-4+ circuit at The Works the other week that was about 6C.

Re slopers, as Dave says there is a large amount of technique (or knack!) involved in holding them and it generally revolves around body position and getting your weight at the correct angle to make best use of them. It's worth remembering that it's not like holding a positive edge where you can just pull down on it as hard as you can. Subtlety is key. Oh and despite this sometimes the best way to use a sloper is to CRIMP IT!

[lagerstarfish]

Jasper has forgotten to tell you that it will help you a great deal if you never talk in V grades, only use Font grades 

Do you ever work boulder problems? Even if you can't get to a different venue or climb with people with better technique or more experience, working hard (for you) problems over several sessions can help.

[i.munro]

Can you get a train to London Bridge?

If so I'd suggest trying the Arch. I'm a big fan.

[Jaspersharpe]

Jasper has forgotten to tell you that it will help you a great deal if you never talk in V grades, only use Font grades 

How could I forget?! 

[Durbs]

Do you ever work boulder problems? Even if you can't get to a different venue or climb with people with better technique or more experience, working hard (for you) problems over several sessions can help.

Yes definitely, had success with a route last night which i'd been working on for 3 visits... I tend to find there's routes i know I can do, just not quite yet, and there's routes where I can't even get on the wall.

Finishing a route which I've been working on is possibly the main reason i've been bouldering more recently - such satisfaction :D

[lagerstarfish]

such satisfaction :D

That is all I hope to get out of bouldering. As long as I get that feeling, I'm not arsed about improving any quicker (if at all - despite what Jasper might think/say).

Just over an hour 'till grit time.