[Bonjoy]

The campus way is a bit naff IMO. You have to reach over from the boulder behind and then step/swing onto the holds. It’s common to see folk using the very helpful inward momentum of the step on to assist the campus move which seems like cheating to me.
Top effort to flash both in a session (got up at 4am according to 8a.nu) regardless of sequence!

[dave]

if someone claims 4am on 8a.nu does that mean it was actually more like 5:45am?

[Kingy]

I was so wrapped up in my historical musings I forgot to say good effort! Amazing achievements!!

[BenF]

if someone claims 4am on 8a.nu does that mean it was actually more like 5:45am?

Even if it was 4am when you started, by the time the slow navigation and general shittiness of the site has had an effect it would be more like 5.45am.

[c3po]

Didnt Fred Rouhling (AKA Frech Footless God) flash Joker afew years ago! Akira Fr9B was just training for a waddage grit flash!

[dave]

according to this site big fred did it quickly, not flashed. doesn't say owt about a flash on his site either.

[Paul B]

The campus way is a bit naff IMO. You have to reach over from the boulder behind and then step/swing onto the holds. It’s common to see folk using the very helpful inward momentum of the step on to assist the campus move which seems like cheating to me.

Amen. If its campussed you need to let that swinging stop before you pull.

[Somebody's Fool]

Why? It's not like you're jumping on. And when I last checked, there was merit to be found in climbing things as efficiently as possible.

Pulling up when you're as far under the slopers as possible adds a smidgin of subtlety and craft to what would otherwise be a daft campusing exercise.

[Bonjoy]

It might be efficient, but so is taking a running jump, or getting a leg-up off your mate, but both are a far cry from the original concept and questionable at 8a. This is climbing not parkour after all.

[Somebody's Fool]

So leaving the block with your right foot is OK, but if you leave it with your left, it's tantamount to a running jump?

Have I understood that right?

[Bonjoy]

Pretty much.
So long as you stop swinging before you press on it doesn't matter how you start. That's not a contrived requirement on the original sequence, hence me saying the other way is a bit naff.

[Jaspersharpe]

And C********k gets jibed for being eliminate. 

[Somebody's Fool]

Nonsense.

Moffatt uses the swing to his advantage on Hard Grit. Because it's a perfectly legitamate, and logical, way to maximise those slopers.

Remember we can't all be like Nige, and hang them for 20 seconds plus.

[dave]

you'll be telling me next that you can't tick spring voyage with a run-up.

[dobbin]

Anyway, you're going off on a tangent - we dont know what he did or didnt do. For all we know he may have pulled on, held the position, composed himself for a second whilst his camera man confirmed he was recording and then BAM! executed the move in cold calculated style - his first ever go on this problem.

Right now the HD video is being uploaded to Vimeo and we shall all hail this new force coming up to shake up British Rock climbing. Presumably he had a spotter? or he is also incredibly brave!

[irish si]

This is very impressive considering his ticklist to date.

Not that im a doubter as you all know but I would really like to hear from someone who saw this.  I really really hope he had a spotter for his two most impressive (by ten miles) ascents. 

He is also going to climb a lot more stuff in the future and would really want to get a witness for everything if he is going to report on 8a.nu. Wouldnt want him to get classed in with we all know who....

Cause thats really impressive or really lucky



(there is no point arguing over the joker, its not really a problem anyway- its a stepping stone ha ha)

[Johnny Brown]

It’s common to see folk using the very helpful inward momentum of the step on to assist the campus move which seems like cheating to me.

I've seen a few ascents of The Joker, and all have taken full advantage of the swing. Its not like its something you can exaggerate and make it easier - its how the problem is done. In fact I can't see a way of doing it without that wouldn't seem horribly contrived. Before you start jibing it you might want to make an ascent with and see if it feels like cheating. This is one oft he reasons The Ace is so much harder. For the record I firmly believe The Joker any which way deserves 8a.

[Bonjoy]

I have tried it both ways (couldn't do it either way)and yes to do it sans swing on the RH version is contrived, hence me thinking it a naff version of a once proud problem. The difference between pulling on as statically as possible or leeping on and milking the swing is very indistinct. That's just my opinion based on how it felt to me. Perhaps as you say I'd feel different if I'd succeeded. Whose to say whether failure or success does more to cloud judgement?

[chillax]

Didnt Fred Rouhling (AKA Frech Footless God) flash Joker afew years ago! Akira Fr9B was just training for a waddage grit flash!

Rouhling didn't flash. Theres a few shots of him falling off it in Inertia 2 (old Paul Dusatko flick). Though he did seem to let the swing subside slightly....... But then again I've only seen the problem on film. Very easy to be a keyboard pundit these days.

In any case, bon effort by the man of the moment!

[Johnny Brown]

To me this is school-think at its worse. Its a natural problem, with a natural start place.
Others may differ, but there's no way I can pull on without some sort of swing resulting. Yes the swing then naturally initiates the pull-up, but to suggest you can somehow 'leap on and milk the swing' magically making it easier bears no relation to my experience.
I've no doubt you can make it harder by pulling on and then forcing any swing to stop before continuing, but that's not the same thing.

[Bonjoy]

You can start with one foot on the boulder and one on the rock. You don't think there's a difference between pushing off your back foot, or just dropping it off? It's a one move problem where how you leave the ground is a critical factor, that just feels like slightly less than a recipe for greatness to me.

[irish si]

 The Joker is simply a poor quality bloc, with historical importance and essentially just one of the moves on a great independant hard boulder.  

[irish si]

You can start with one foot on the boulder and one on the rock. You don't think there's a difference between pushing off you back foot, or just dropping it off?

I dont understand.  When i did this problem i campussed, but i also clearly remember holding tension on my back foot and letting it drop down with absolutely no push whatsoever, actually dabbing my right foot on something under the roof to stop the swing before pulling. 

I think if you jumped of the boulder it would look and feel totally stupid.

[Bonjoy]

You can start with one foot on the boulder and one on the rock. You don't think there's a difference between pushing off you back foot, or just dropping it off?

I dont understand.  When i did this problem i campussed, but i also clearly remember holding tension on my back foot and letting it drop down with absolutely no push whatsoever, actually dabbing my right foot on something under the roof to stop the swing before pulling. 

I think if you jumped of the boulder it would look and feel totally stupid.

Obviously you were applying the 'worst kind of school-think' to the problem 

[irish si]

fuck you should see my footwork now bon.....