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Yorkshire Grit - top chuffing reccomendations? (Read 3595 times)

TobyD

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Yorkshire Grit - top chuffing reccomendations?
September 29, 2008, 01:05:54 pm
Any good knowledge / reccomendations on good grit routes in yorkshire, up to E6ish and preferably, but not necessarily reasonably protected? Particularly those outside the obvious stuff at Caley, the Cliff etc.

My knowledge pretty much extends so far to having thoroughly enjoyed Left Wall at Brimham, fantastic moves, sufficient gear and an unusual somehow un-grit like feel. Maybe that was something to do with it having enough gear, and no savage crux?

Bonjoy

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I have bugger all ticks in the book up there. Have always fancied:
Widdop - Thirty Seconds Over Winterland E5 6b *** looks good and well protected
Hawkscliff and Heptontstall look to have some good well prtected hard things too
« Last Edit: September 29, 2008, 01:27:55 pm by Bonjoy »

Will Hunt

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Check out Yorkshire Grit guidebook for the pictures from Guisecliff. Some of the routes there like Warriors... look incredible.
Now I just need to be good enough to do them.

Bonjoy

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I'd wager most things at Guiseciffe will need re-cleaning pre ascent.
Desert Island Arete is supposed to be safe but runout and an essential tick

jfw

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Birdsong at hawkcliffe is a bit harder than your definition at E7 but well protected (if you want to check out this crag do squirrel crack its awesome)

Shock horror?  (E6>?) at rocky valley (do beeline while you are up there)

wellington crack (E4) (if its not too green since the loss of the capping stone) - do waleska and cherry valley rib, short circuit while you are in the quarry (A climb)

obscene cleft? (E6) - haha!

earl buttress E2


dave

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as ian mcshane says, desert island arete is the one that sticks out as a goer, especially if you've got the start pathed.

TobyD

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I have bugger all ticks in the book up there. Have always fancied:
Widdop - Thirty Seconds Over Winterland E5 6b *** looks good and well protected
Hawkscliff and Heptontstall look to have some good well prtected hard things too

other than the big3 t'other day i guess... :-)  That Widdop thing sounds awesome.

Heptonstall  - that's where forked lightning crack is innit? That place looks to be well worth checking out.

Wellington Crack  - o yeah, done that one (post stone removal, and it didn't seem to be too green really) and liked it.

I thought Desert Island Arete was E7; sounds pretty cool what ever though.

cheers...

lagerstarfish

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Milky Way at Ilkley?

moose

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I seconded Wellington Crack last month and the luminous greenery didn't seem to affect the climbing (and it had been raining that morning too).  Wonderful moves too: not the hideous finger-knackerer I had expected but a lovely sequence of muscular moves on good holds.  


Arries 'Ook at Almscliff is a really good E4 - the traverse is exsquisite and the finishing hoick is really satisfying (but you wouldn't want to fall before getting to the gear inbetween).

Will Hunt

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If you're into self flagellation etc then try Gigglin Crack at Brimham.

TobyD

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believe it or not i'm quite a fan (of self flagellation).

Johnny Brown

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Desert island Arete may be 'safe but runout' but its very hard, very few onsights afaik.

andy popp

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Obvious though it might be, the Caley trinity of Psycho, Adrenalin Rush and Highnoon (never E4 to my mind) is also absolutely brilliant.

SA Chris

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Hawkscliff

Probably the best time of year for this - one of those crags which get mingy due to leaves on trees in summer, and is green all winter.

Some big ticks at Crookrise - open all winter, avoid if it's at all windy though.

 

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