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Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over (Read 8889 times)

Moo

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Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
September 28, 2008, 10:43:49 am
From scottish climbs

Malcolm Smith has been slowly working his way through the list of test peices left by Macleod. After repeating Sanction Font 8b, Macleods counter arete line to Sabotage, Malcolm took up the challenge of the cave start:

Start as for Serum of Sisyphus. Make hard moves to join Perfect Crime and follow this to an ab sapping knee bar rest in the niche. Finish up Sanction then wander up the easy arete to the top of the boulder. 8A/+ then 8B = 8B+?. Breaks new ground in Scottish bouldering.

Malcolm has named the new line Gut Buster

Nibile

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#1 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
September 28, 2008, 10:00:57 pm
i just love him.

Mike Lee

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#2 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
September 29, 2008, 10:42:48 am
Well impressed. Although this problem is very long, the final jump move is desperate: 3 finger stack on small spike, slopey crimp, shit foot, 50 degrees overhanging, and jump to impossible to hold sloper. It's around font 7c+/8a in itself....  :bow:

Jaspersharpe

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#3 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
September 29, 2008, 11:36:36 am
YYFY!  :thumbsup:

Jaspersharpe

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#4 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
September 29, 2008, 05:07:34 pm
MacLeod's done his traverse project thing too. Looks like he's sort of saying 8B+ for this too but at 50m long surely a route grade would be more appropriate. Good effort anyways.

SA Chris

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slackline

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#6 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 06, 2008, 10:18:31 am
Thats just crazy, it looks like he climbing down the roof  8)


GCW

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#7 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 06, 2008, 10:40:38 am

dave

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#8 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 06, 2008, 10:44:53 am
malc is a legend truer than the bible itself.

unclesomebody

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#9 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 06, 2008, 11:15:16 am
What a champ. That is pure inspiration to me. Last week in one of the Guardian crosswords there was a clue that said "Champions" and the inconceivably tenuous answer was apostles but it really should have been Malcolms. Once again, my proposal for an honourary wad system, if in place, would allow me to wad the guy right now!

Andy Harris

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#10 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 06, 2008, 07:11:01 pm
total disrespect for Font 8b+!

In all my years I've never met anyone who crushes crushes hard boulders so effortlessly. Sure people have climbed harder but not with such ease, and I bet they couldn't run half a dozen laps on the trot.

Munkii

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#11 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 06, 2008, 07:19:09 pm
nice knee bar.

slackline

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#12 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 06, 2008, 07:42:26 pm
 :o The man himself says it all really...

Quote from: Malcolm Smith
Its technical, really fingery, and you have to have it wired in order to do it, you can't just use strength to pull through.....everythings got to be perfect

Not doubting it for one second, but the ease with which he flows through that problem does not look anything like 8b+

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#13 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 07, 2008, 09:13:21 am
As I posted on the other thread, Malc still climbs with exactly the same style that he did when he was 18. Total precision only possible because of such masssive levels of power. It's quite beautiful to watch.

dave

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#14 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 07, 2008, 09:21:05 am
i think its great that malc manages to keep carving his face into Mount Crushmore, even after dropping from the radar for ages (presumably injury?), yet still maintaining an air of mis-teeq, unlike todays over media saturated uberstars.

SA Chris

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#15 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 07, 2008, 09:41:34 am
I think it's Heir of Mustique.

T_B

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#16 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 07, 2008, 09:43:06 am
Nice write up from Malc on his Scarpa blog comapring the difficulty of Gut Buster with Dreamtime, Monk Life etc:
http://www.scarpa.co.uk/Team/blogs.asp?TeamID=14

Danger

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#17 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 07, 2008, 10:00:00 am
Quote from: Malcom Smith
There are some projects left to do there, including a possible font 8C,I might have to resort to the brocolli for that one though.

Quote
I hear the top dog Spaniards do 600 moves per training session then max out on pull-ups, what have they ever done at Dumbarton.

Quote
Very few climbers are what you could call strong in a general sense but I want to be one. Light, able to clean and jerk 100kg, deadlift 200kg and bench 300lb, thats strong. I hope I can get there, stay light and climb a 9a this year, we shall see.

The man is a machine  :bow:

JWells

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#18 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 07, 2008, 10:14:12 am
he made that look easy! God knows how he worked out that sequence at the beginning at all :shrug:

unclesomebody

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#19 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 07, 2008, 10:15:48 am
Quote from: Malcolm Smith
Maybe 75kg heavy weights like myself and the other hold breakers should be banned from the crags, all we do is destroy the rock.

Understatement galore. The man's more of a hero than Chuck Norris and the A Team combined.

Nibile

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#20 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 07, 2008, 11:57:04 am
inspiration for my evening session.
thank you malc.
waddage!!!

Nibile

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#21 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 07, 2008, 12:21:02 pm
anyway that's the wrong vid.
it's clearly malc warming up on some 6c+ traverse at dumbarton.
 :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw:
we definitely need more people like him.

Plattsy

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#22 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 07, 2008, 12:25:38 pm
Could someone please post the link to the video. I'm assuming GCW posted an embedded video and not just a blank post (or was he speechless?)

slackline

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#23 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 07, 2008, 12:33:23 pm
Could someone please post the link to the video. I'm assuming GCW posted an embedded video and not just a blank post (or was he speechless?)

You can get it yourself by simply quoting GCW, copying the URL and pasting into a new tab, then discarding your reply to GCW's post.  Anyone else trying to post the URL won't be able too since the forum will parse it and embed the video again.

It might simply be that your employers (assuming your at work) don't allow video streaming and as a consequence you either a)don't have the appropriate plugin installed in your browser; b) they filter and prevent it from coming through.

Plattsy

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#24 Re: Scottish Darkhorse keeps ticking over
October 07, 2008, 12:41:07 pm
Boo. Total shutdown on Google video. It'll have to wait until I get home. Thanks for the tip though.