[dpb]

Hi

I was fingerboarding on Sunday Night.  I was pulling on a two finger pocket with  my middle 2. Part way through the pull something popped/gave in my right forearm, palm side,  about 1.5/2 inches down from my wrist.

Now, if I pull using my middle finger with my index curled down (2 finger pocket style) I get a sharp pain in the part of my forearm that popped.  If pull using my middle finger with my index finger pointing straight up I do not experience any pain.

If I press my thumb into the spot where I experience pain and curl my fore finger towards my palm I also experience the pain.  Pulling on my forefinger in any position, either by itself or with my other fingers in fine.

Anybody got any idea as to what I may have done/how serious this may or may not be?

Many Thanks

Dave

[GCW]

Partial FDS muscle belly tear?

[dpb]

Partial FDS muscle belly tear?

What would this mean from a recovery/rehab point of view?  Is it a total rest thing?  Any idea of recovery time?  Anything I can do to help i.e strengthening excerices etc?

I have googled 'FDS muscle belly' but didn't really understand a word of what I read.

Cheers

[GCW]

Sounds like you've tweaked sommat in your arm.
Rest it etc etc for a couple of week, along with some stretching/Ice then gently return to active exercise (or sooner if it all settles well).
Warm up and warm down properly though.

[dpb]

Cheers

Looks like running only for a while.  Hey Ho.

Thanks for the advice.

[The Sausage]

It won't be fds/fdp muscle belly, it sounds like it's far too close to the wrist for that.

It sounds more like a partial tendon tear. Have you able to move all of the joints independently in the affected fingers? If not, it's a complete rupture and you'll definitle need surgery.

I'd still echo the advice from GCW - rest for a couple of weeks, and then very gradually increase the amount of load you put through it - start by stressing it using your other hand, and continue using a finger board with a set of bathroom scales so you can be systematic. If you have any worries that you've lost movement, or you think it feels like it's tearing under light loads, you definitely need to get it checked out - basically, anything over about a 40% tear, they'll want to fix surgically.

It's going to take a long time. 3 months at least to get back to full strength if it's any sort of significant tear. The stretching and gradual loading during the healing process will help to minimise scar tissue formation, but it's not going to completely pain free for quite some time.

[fatdoc]

 

specific finger movements can help isolate the point if injury.

if it were me I'd get to a hand specialist physio at the least immediately... if that proved tricky I'd see a surgeon, privately NOW. These tendons dont stitch together well, esp after a delay from time of injury.

Seriously... unless it settles down fast - seek top quality advice soon.

[dpb]

I can move all my fingers joints etc independantly and with out any pain. I have an appointment tomorrow morning with a phsyio and shall see what she thinks. It just seems a bit odd that i can all my fingers together or independantly unless my index finger is curled into my palm.
Grrr, bloody injuries!

Thanks for the advice.

[GCW]

Sorry, missed the 2" bit.

[PeterH]

I have injured myself twice fingerboarding with "the other fingers curled down" and now no longer do it. The last time was last dec about 22nd, showing off to a friend  ??? ??? I bouldered a bit with the fingers taped together (this is a tip for rehab) and a couple of weeks later it was OK. I could feel for a while the tendon which was slightly strained, just where yours is, and avoided FB'ing for about a month. When I went back to the finger board I avoided the exercise that had damaged it, I guess for a total of 2 months.

I have also found that on the 2-finger pockets you have to be very careful how you load the two fingers, I have as part of these injuries twice overloaded the ring finger tendon. Also, the slight torsion (twisting) you can apply to the finger can hurt the collateral ligaments of the fingers.

Based on my experience, since your thing is so specific, it shouldn't be too bad. Above all, avoid the position that hurts it. When mine was getting better, I could feel the whole of the tendon of the affected finger feeling a bit tweaked. The day after I did it, I was doing slabby no crimping bouldering, and a week later was at the wall. Even though I felt a right twat when I did it.

Good luck Peter

[dpb]

Just been to the physio/osteopath.  She reckoned i popped a small bone in my wrist out of place. She put this back where it belongs and everything feels a million times better.

Going to take it slow but hopefully no long lay off for me, wo hoo!

[GCW]

Oh, really?

[dpb]

Yep

All I know is she popped a carpal bone from somewhere to somewhere and it no longer hurts I if apply pressure with my thumb and wiggle my index finger.  I guess the pop I heard/felt was said bone popping out of place and nothing to do with any tendons.