[bob]

almost iced it yesterday was just wondering how big the hold nodder ripped off on amature hardcore was as i have to cross to an iffy crimp before getting the big pocket. im not looking for extra man points just curious.

p.s. how long is it going to take for somthing to eat the sheep under the roadside boulder.

[JohnM]

Don't know gow hard it was before the hold got ripped off.  Feels about V7 now.  Does anyone know if it is usually topped out? When I did it yesterday it didn't seem worth battle with the moss and vegetation present on the top after doing such an enjoyable problem.

[Danny]

Whats this Jon, no topping out? Its not the beacon.

No tick for you then matey :D

I'm just bitter coz my tendon is shagged and I'm weak as pish...

[Loz!]

Would that be weak by mortal standards?...

[Danny]

I'd say I'd fit into the bouldering punter bracket, V7 on a good day.

Although I love bouldering I'm also well psyched for trad, ice, alpine & DWS.

However I can't get into seem to get into sport..dunno why, just seems shite compared to bouldering.

[Loz!]

I'm shocked young man, I'd have thought you'd be well psyched for the old sport routes. Theres nothing like Raven Tor on a warm muggy day..mmmm.
Possibly over your neck of the woods this weekend if its dry..got my new car..come on!!

[Pantontino]

Wise man he say: "If you want the tick, you gotta press the mantel out - Maaaaannn!!!"

Or failing that, wait a few years, I'm sure there'll be grab bars at the top of all these boulders soon...and perhaps surround foam padding with an ever dry covering.

As for the grade/broken hold scenario - I'm not sure, haven't been here for a while. I saw Nodder last night but forgot to ask him about this. I was assuming it would be harder, now the hold has broken, but then again it was probably overgraded before.

[BenF]

Sorry for restoring this way old thread but I need some help on the last moves of the prow.  It all felt fine until the last move - starting low, using an array of sidepulls and heel hooks to get up to a good rh sidepull out right on the steepness and a good curved left hand edge on the arete about a metre from the top.  From there I can only think that its a dyno with the rh to the apex of the prow (with trauma potential from the boulder behind and at the very least, great difficulty in stopping my legs hitting the boulder as I swing from the top jug).  Is this right? 

Someone yesterday suggested that the problem breaks out left up the wall rather than following the arete right to the point (and the original poster on this thread mentions a pocket and crossing through, all of which takes you away from the arete).  I noticed some pockets on the left wall but it seemed natural to keep my lh clamped to the arete holds with the odd rh hold on the steeper right side.  It's just it leaves a hard, scary jump to the top. 

Thanks. 

[Pantontino]

I think the last move always was a bit wiggy, but it is also entirely possible that a hold has come off. Sorry for the vagueness, it's been a while since I was down here. I'll ask around and get back to you.

[BenF]

I think the last move always was a bit wiggy

I have never heard that phrase.  And it means?

Thanks for getting back to me though, appreciated.  I was beginning to wonder whether I'd dreamed the boulder up.

[Drew]

I think the last move always was a bit wiggy

I have never heard that phrase.  And it means?

?

[Doylo]

I remember the end completely letting this problem down (i.e the start is amazing but the finish is crappy). I did a link (surprise surprise) here. Start as for Bustach prow and traverse the face into the top of Fagin 7bish and quite fun.

[BenF]

I remember the end completely letting this problem down (i.e the start is amazing but the finish is crappy). I did a link (surprise surprise) here. Start as for Bustach prow and traverse the face into the top of Fagin 7bish and quite fun.

Thanks Chris, just seen your reply.

So presumably the crappy end would be moving out left onto the face and using the nasty sharp holds?  I may try again to go straight up the arete rather than move left as it would be more satisfying if scary.

We checked out your link (Bustach Belly?) as Owen is always up for a bit of link up action.  I didn't try it as I was too busy pondering the prow but it looked hard and fingery.

[Pantontino]

Wiggy means scary in North Wales speak. I'm not sure how it landed in the Gog climbing lexicon.

[BenF]

Thanks Simon, I shall attempt to introduce the word to the Merseyside climber's vocabulary. 

[Doylo]

i christened it Bustach Gut. i think i mentioned it  2panton but he ignored me the bastard. i quite like this boulder,sick happy is good too!

[Pantontino]

i christened it Bustach Gut. i think i mentioned it  2panton but he ignored me the bastard. i quite like this boulder,sick happy is good too!

Don't worry Chris, I'll make sure it goes in the next edition, although I'll need to check with Dave Rudkin and John Welford first as they have both done problems covering similar ground.

FWIW I always thought Fagin was rather good too.

[BenF]

2panton

Llanberis's answer to 2Pac?

[Monolith]

Seminal. Alongside Old Dirty Doylo, a ghetto is forming.

[Pantontino]

Did anybody mention LL55 Cool J?

[BenF]

That's good. 

I'd try to think of some more bad hiphop/Llanberis puns, but my brain has stopped working.  Where's SAChris?

[Monolith]

You'd get shot in Merseyside without an alias.