[Dave Flanagan]

A load of wank?
The incredibly badly written reports and articles.
The completely pointless ranking system.
The imbecilic news pieces by the editors. (Good example http://www.8a.nu/forum/ViewForumThread.aspx?ObjectId=8701&ObjectClass=CLS_UserNewsComment&CountryCode=GLOBAL poorly chipped?

I agree, in general any chipped routes are bad. However, I mean that in some very few cases one chipped hold which make a 10a crux route to a 8a even route could be acceptable.
Further more, all climbers have different opinions on this delicat matter and we are not hear to say it is black or white. It is actually very difficult to give a definition of chipping and therefore we use 'Poorly/Mainly Chipped' where everyone can have their opinion.

????

)

Why does it even exist?

[slackline]

A load of wank?

The incredibly badly written reports and articles.

Yep.

Add to that very poorly designed and therefore difficult to navigate.

Why does it even exist?

  To make the site owners money from advertising revenue.

I've heard its a useful log-book system used by some.

[Bonjoy]

Heretical as it may be to speak well of UKC on here, but their logbook thingy is rapidly becoming a far superior alternative way to keep a record of your climbing. Instead of being angled towards scores, rankings and willy-waving, it’s based around a no nonsense easily navigated, user input based, ever more comprehensive crag database.

[Stubbs]

I pretty much only climb so I can put things on my spraysheet, I get all nervous if a few weeks go by and I haven't climbed anything new to put on there.  All this rain has made it hard to keep up with my spraysheet needs! 

[Bonjoy]

In defence of keeping a log, after 20 years of climbing I'm often only aware of which routes I've done at a crag by noting what's been ticked in the guidebook. Does this matter? To some I guess not, but I also have a collecter's/completionist's mentality and collecting routes is more fun than collecting painted thimbles. Looking back and seeing a tick next to a route can bring back memories of brilliant experiences from years ago, that would otherwise never have recalled. The problem with this is that being a collecting type I also buy the most upto date versions of all the guides and have long since given up trying to move all my ticks from on edition to the next. So for me an online log is very useful thing. I'll put my hand up to being a tick collecting geek, but it doesn't automatically follow that I'm a willy-waver.

[Andy F]

I'll put my hand up to being a tick collecting geek.

Ditto. I do find when looking at other peoples acsent's I remember routes I did way in the past. Which is nice.

[Nibile]

the site is getting worse and worse.
plus, it crashed three times in a row while i tried to visualize adam ondra's all time routes scorecard.
but hey, that would crash the computer that runs the large hadron collider.

[Dave Flanagan]

Its not the logbook aspect I have a problem with, I have kept a written log of all the climbing I have done for over ten years so its not that I'm anti-trainspotter or anything. Its just seems so grade oriented. And popular. Maybe loads of people only log to see their latest moronic pronouncements as I do.

[dave]

the worst thing about 8a.nu is the fact its the worlds slowest and most difficult to navigate website. all the grade wanking pales into insignificance at the side of this.

i'm sure there are plenty of people on 8a.nu like me how just log on to fill in their card then fuck off again, which is fair enough. I doubt i would even be able to find anyone elses scorecard or league tables even if I was so inclined.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

I find the idea of the site quite entertaining and the bragging element doesn't bother me, the rankings are total nonsense and surely nobody takes them seriously. It's just interesting to me to see what people have done recently and what they think of the stuff they've done grade and quality wise. The articles are wank but I don't care about that either. The problem is that the website is SO FUCKING SHIT it makes looking at it an enormous chore. They're always bragging about how popular they are so spend some of that advertising cash on sorting the bloody thing out.

 

[philo]

the worst thing about 8a.nu is the fact its the worlds slowest and most difficult to navigate website. all the grade wanking pales into insignificance at the side of this.

i'm sure there are plenty of people on 8a.nu like me how just log on to fill in their card then fuck off again, which is fair enough. I doubt i would even be able to find anyone elses scorecard or league tables even if I was so inclined.

then you come to their search function...
it seems to be in no order what so ever.

[neil h]

I asked them how much an advert would cost, a very simple samll banner that pops up every once in blue moon, 2000 euros a month, my company doesnt even bring that much in, so they said 1800, that was even the fact i bribed them with free accom in the forest

never been back on the site

[lagerstarfish]

I find the idea of the site quite entertaining and the bragging element doesn't bother me, the rankings are total nonsense and surely nobody takes them seriously. It's just interesting to me to see what people have done recently and what they think of the stuff they've done grade and quality wise.

Listening to your wife talk, there is clearly a need for a similar site where people record the age at which their young children achieve different developmental stages - including detailed rankings of children of similar ages

 

Sharpe Jr is miles ahead on his muscle flexing - very impressive and funny as fook 

[Jaspersharpe]

God no, it'd make her even more paranoid!

[lagerstarfish]

Oh, not for her benefit - I meant as a way of exploiting all those pushy, competitive mothers. Mrs Sharpe does seem to have a rather detailed knowledge of what everybody else's kids did and when - perhaps she could fill in their score cards for them.

[Jaspersharpe]

She has the detailed knowledge so that she can worry about Sharpe Jr not developing when he should (as you know, worrying is her number 1 passtime and she's 8C standard at it). Access to more information would merely increase the worry curve exponentially. Delete this thread immediately before she sees it and starts getting ideas!  Mind you if the website was as shit as 8a.nu she'd never actually get to the information anyway.

I asked them how much an advert would cost, a very simple samll banner that pops up every once in blue moon, 2000 euros a month, my company doesnt even bring that much in, so they said 1800, that was even the fact i bribed them with free accom in the forest

That's extortionate.

[tommy Caldwell]

  If you guys like 8A.nu then check out cakefarts.com... its good documentation of some rery cool shit... no pun intended.....  check it! werd up...  Ok....

[Somebody's Fool]

Firstly, well done on hitting the shift key at least once during the typing of your moniker. No mean feat for a man in your condition.

And secondly, it really doesn't sound like 'us guys' like 8a.nu.

[Nibile]

fuckin' idiots.
quote:
"Climbing grading is based on How difficult it is to do a climb, measured by the time and effort, that has to be invested. A climb that take 2 days should be graded harder than another climb that takes 2 hours.

The grading scale has very wide steps. On an average, a climber that can do an 8A (8a) on 2:Go should be able to do 8A+ in two hours (8a+ in 1 day), 8B in two days and 8B+ in 20 days and maybe 8C in 200 days.

The above Time Comparison is a speculation and 8a do not have the truth. However, it is based on the 8a grading theory. Feel free to comment!"

[slackline]

Feel free to comment!"

What complete and utter bollocks!

[Jaspersharpe]

See. All these debates about grades when it was all so simple all along. What fools we were! Thank you 8a.nu for clearing things up.

[steven82]

so according to 8a the fact i flash a 7b+ and its taken my way tto long to do rock attrocity the i can claim 8c for rock attrocity, wow it all comes clear to me now 

[Jaspersharpe]

Skyler Weak, the jumping champion who only does dynos (not duvets) and trains with a basketball team, has done a new jumping problem that took hom 76 days. According to 8a.nu, this is 8C+........

If climbing grades are based on How difficult it is to do a climb measured by the Time and Effort it would take for the climbing community to repeat this boulder dyno, I would like to propose 8C+.

This speculation is also based on that Skyler holds the world record in dynoing at 2.625. "Official" dyno contests are held on a 20-degree overhanging wall, starting with twin large handholds and a ladder of identical footholds. Contestants leap up and left at a 45-degree angle to catch a jug that is moved progressively farther from the left starting hold. It should be mentioned that Peter Wurth has jumped 2.725 cm when he pushed with his feet on the starting holds.

In other words, this might be the most difficult boulder to repeat, thus 8C+. However, theoretically, if some of Skyler's basketball friends would start bouldering and being apart of the community, they might repeat and downgrade it Skyler has a vertical leep of close to 80 cm which is more than the average NBA player. Michal Jordan had 121 cm and the world record holder, Kadour Zihani did have an amazing 152.4 cm.

This is of course based on that the dyno is most of all a feet, and biceps thing where there is great advantage to be very, very tall.

I am very curios to what happened with his legs after 76 days and what kind of crash pad he was using.

Jesus fucking wept.

[dave]

If climbing grades are based on How difficult it is to do a climb measured by the Time and Effort....

luckily its not. the idiots are winning.

[Johnny Brown]

It should be mentioned that Peter Wurth has jumped 2.725 cm when he pushed with his feet on the starting holds.

Lets hear some more about Peter Wurth then! These dyno comps should really drop the silly 'no technique' rules.