[SA Chris]

- yes, I've had the heating on.

Wimp. I've locked ours up to stop the wife getting near.

[danm]

It would be pretty funny if whilst we argue on here about the right time for calling, the marauding French couple do a Toru and send all our hardest grit routes behind our backs. "Les conditions c'est bon, non?"

[erm, sam]

Hey old people. The kids don't give a shit about all this calling the grit bollocks. Its all in all the time.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/09/obsession_fatale_e8_6c_by_anna_taylor-71714

[Bradders]

Hey old people. The kids don't give a shit about all this calling the grit bollocks. Its all in all the time.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/09/obsession_fatale_e8_6c_by_anna_taylor-71714

Pfft, although a fantastic effort that's all about footwork so warmer connies are possibly advantageous to help soften the rubber.

[dunnyg]

 Someone asked on the other channel but there was no answer, but maybe more people here have firat hand wzperience. What ballpark font grade is the crux?

[remus]

Someone asked on the other channel but there was no answer, but maybe more people here have firat hand wzperience. What ballpark font grade is the crux?

Based on one top rope go about 8 years ago, id guestimate somewhere in the 6C to 7A range.

[36chambers]

Someone asked on the other channel but there was no answer, but maybe more people here have firat hand wzperience. What ballpark font grade is the crux?

Based on one top rope go about 8 years ago, id guestimate somewhere in the 6C to 7A range.

I was running laps on New Jerusalem a few weeks ago, take that old people.

[Bradders]

6C

New Jerusalem

Being able to do 6Cs does not count as grit season 

[tomtom]

People climb hard stuff on grit in summer. Sure. If that’s what you want - or only have the opportunity to - then super! Go for it!!

We’re a long way from any calling though. Loads of midges stil yesterday....

[spidermonkey09]

I was running laps on New Jerusalem a few weeks ago, take that old people.

I still can't touch that problem! Tried it on Wednesday and it savaged my skin, so I'll wait til its called I think...!

[Coops_13]

Someone asked on the other channel but there was no answer, but maybe more people here have firat hand wzperience. What ballpark font grade is the crux?

Based on one top rope go about 8 years ago, id guestimate somewhere in the 6C to 7A range.

I was running laps on New Jerusalem a few weeks ago, take that old people.

Aren't you an old person though? 

[36chambers]

I was running laps on New Jerusalem a few weeks ago, take that old people.

I still can't touch that problem! Tried it on Wednesday and it savaged my skin, so I'll wait til its called I think...!

To be fair, I've only heard giants call it 6C. I can think of plenty of 7A's that I find much easier.

[36chambers]

Someone asked on the other channel but there was no answer, but maybe more people here have firat hand wzperience. What ballpark font grade is the crux?

Based on one top rope go about 8 years ago, id guestimate somewhere in the 6C to 7A range.

I was running laps on New Jerusalem a few weeks ago, take that old people.

Aren't you an old person though? 

and yet I still manage to burn you off

[andy popp]

Someone asked on the other channel but there was no answer, but maybe more people here have firat hand wzperience. What ballpark font grade is the crux?

Based on one top rope go about 8 years ago, id guestimate somewhere in the 6C to 7A range.

I've just kind of answered over there. I did it a long time ago and after only brief inspection so my memory might be faulty  but I don't think its anywhere near English 6c. I doubt its anything like that kind of Font grade (I topped it no-handed with one slip immediately after soloing it in crap misty conditions. I don't think I could do that on a 7A grit slab). Its just super insecure.

[dunnyg]

Interesting! Looks like the stuff of nightmares for me, however hard it is. Always cool to see people ticking these routes.

[SA Chris]

(I topped it no-handed with one slip immediately after soloing it in crap misty conditions.

I hope by topped you mean toproped!

[andy popp]

Yes, sorry - must have been autocorrect. Its probably no surprise a certain Mr Dawes was involved in that particular day out.

[Johnny Brown]

I'd say it's similar standard to science friction. I didn't think it was that insecure, it's just very high up to be trusting to pure padding wth no handholds.

Toproping it cleanly back in about '95 when I'd barely even started leading extremes was a big factor in my not pursuing headpointing. I'd always planned to leave it long enough to forget the moves before attempting a solo. Life went on regardless, and I toproped it again a couple of years back while trying to combine babycare with climbing, and was very surprised to find the one hold I remembered - a pebble socket - had been filled in with araldite. Not sure how well I'd have dealt with that discovery if I'd been on the amnesiapoint.

[Footwork]

Notwithstanding it's not quite in yet, looks like great grit conditions next week. Perfect for cleaning up the easier loose ends from last season.

[andy popp]

it's just very high up to be trusting to pure padding wth no handholds.

That's what I mean by insecure really. There are no handholds; if you slipped a little or started to lose your balance it would be very hard to arrest or correct that.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

I don't care what anyone says about old folklore, three headed crows, pink moons or whatever..

sometimes it's a case of "Don't call us, we'll call you"!

Stopped when my fingers went glassy tonight.

 

[SA Chris]

First snows have fallen though.

[tommytwotone]

Ferns on the turn at Almscliff on Saturday - was definitely down jacket weather up there with a chilly wind blowing.


That said, come Sunday I popped to the shops without needing a coat.

[SA Chris]

I was climbing "taps aff" on the coast yesterday morning. Until i topped out and felt the full force of the breeze blowing over the cliff

[Mugabe251]

Been to Baslow and Gardoms loads over this month. Always felt utter velcro and not a single soul was seen at either crag, although Full Power was sporting some grim tick marks today from some ghostly boulderer.

Does anyone climb outside any more?