[daddy long legs]

So, how the funk do I stop from swinging off this little tease? I can reach the positive crimps high on the arete with my right foot heel/ toeing under the block, but when it comes to removing it I just peel off. Do I need to get my left foot toe hooking under aswell? Feels very precarious. All tips and beta would be much appreciated, as much as I love trying this classic, I want to move on.

Cheers

[Jim]

I think you match feet on the top of the lower block and bring your right foot up onto the starting crimp then you don;t cut loose.
There is a thead about this, you'd have to search

[nai]

THere's been a few I think, here's one:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6491.0.html

Also dealt with on Page 7 of the NNFN thread, some beta from Fiend, Moose and myself follows tommytwotone's cries of frustration

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11029.150.html

[dave]

one bit of beta I have it when you get the pair of crimps high near the arete, get them crosshanded with right hand on the top pinching the arete with the thumb - this gives you a fair bite more control and pull inwards to kill any swing.

[Krank]

found this on the tube

[dave]

looks a bit slabbier than I remember.

[daddy long legs]

Yeah my sequence is exactly the same as the half naked chap, except when I release the RF I swing off, think I need to do it slower or do something with my LF like toe hook. In the words of Arnie, "I'll be back".

[nai]

Doesn't look like he uses a toe hook, just stands on the slab wriggles his RF out of the toe-heel but leaves it doing something, then swings his LF round the arete.  The lower down the slab you can stand when you release the RF, the more in balance you'll be and the less swing there will be.

[daddy long legs]

Perhaps it's his left foot round the arete that's keeping him from swinging, and looks like he's wriggled his RF out from the heel/toe, but still there doing something. I'll try that next time, great problem like.

[galpinos]

Don't just release the heel - toe all at once, drag the toe against the top of the break as you release it.

Also, your left foot need to be as directly below you as possible.

[daddy long legs]

left foot just smearing on the block underneath? Wish this rain'd stop so I can have another play...

[Fiend]

Don't just release the heel - toe all at once, drag the toe against the top of the break as you release it.

This is the correct answer.

[fatdoc]

Can't see the tube on my iPhone...

But iirc you do the cross hands then break out left to use the slab angle after the above slow release of the foot

[daddy long legs]

Cheers for the beta all, spesh the foot drag technique, sent yesterday morn 1st thing, took about an hour. Was amazed to not swing off after dragging heel/toe out only to realise the last move seemed to be the crux! Ace problem, well happy 

[tallsop]

wow, that looks wicked, i want a go!!! nice on dll on the tick 

[Jim]

there is a side pull out high near the corner that makes the top move easier