[Fultonius]

Went down to dumby tonight, despite the fact it was raining in Glasgow, and it had been raining at Dumby earlier, and it looked like it might rain.

It was dry!

I had been working the 1990 traverse which is apparently Font 7B/Brit 6c but I think it went a little too easily, if you know what I mean. 

Anyone know the script - have I used 43 illegal holds and started halfway along the traverse, or have I broken in to new ground? 

Any thoughts?

[GCW]

You start at 2HB and stay low to get into the start of Blue Meanie (no going straight up to its finish).  It's a funny one as there's no desperate moves but the last bit into 'Meanie is the redpoint crux IIRC (bear in mind I haven't gone regularly for over 10 years).  I reckon it's a bit soft for 7b mind.

[Fultonius]

Hmm, we seemed to start a few metres right of Torino Sun (which is right of the tree at 2hb and probably didn't exist last time you were there) on a good incut edge for the left hand, an ok crimp for the right and a powerful left heel hook. reached up to a lh sidepull, moved feet, did a big reach up and right to a sharp crimp which is awkward to match. From there it was another big move up and right to a decent hold that allowed you to drop back down slightly and reach around to an 45 degree undercling/sidepull, then it was just a huge span to the second hold on blue meanie. (the Rh slopey layaway)

 

[GCW]

You definitely start at 2HB.  The hardest bit I thought was squeezing past the tree
It sounds like you missed a fair bit out.  Sorry.

[Fultonius]

Both of the guides I've read: Bouldering in Scotland, and this one http://nicholas.armstrong.free.fr/ topos/dumbarton%20bouldering.pdf seem to say start in a groove to the right of the tree. Maybe you've been making it extra hard 

Ah well, I'll just have to go back and do Mugsy Traverse - I know the rules for that one 

[GCW]

I can't download that link, it doesn't exist apparently.
We always did it from 2HB    I'm sure Andy showed me that.  Adds a bit to what you describe.
The only rule on Mugsy traverse is that you have to top it out.

[Fultonius]

Strange - here's the link http://nicholas.armstrong.free.fr/topos/dumbarton%20bouldering.pdf don't know what happened to the las tone 

When you say Andy - are you talking Gallagher?

Ah well, yet more projects - I shall try and extend it!

Topping out up Mestizo is allowed isn't it? I did mestizo sit start without the top out, but felt I had to do it properly so went back and got it nailed! 

[GCW]

The 1994 guide says:

From the tree below 2HB, traverse right to finish up The Blue Meanie

You need to stay low and avoid good holds- I remember it being fingery.



Yes, I mean Gallagher.  You have to remember this was a time when Coolboy, Craig Parnaby and myself used to spend hours at Kelvinhall (in its original state of polished horror) and regularly saw Andy.  That man was/is so strong   All about "back in't day".

But I maintain he showed me a start from 2HB, but I'm, old and my memory ain't perfect.


Mugsy traverse finishes up Mugsy (ya bass).  So after the good sidepull on Mugsy, go into the finishing groove of Mestizo (often feels like the crux).

[Fultonius]

Hmm...might need someone to "show me the way" on the 1990 traverse. 

I've done Mugsy with the jump start, but didn't top it - wasn't sure whether to go left or right.

Also, I have hit, but not held, the sidepull from the hanging start (the traverse without actually traversing) and I can link it all in sections....just need to put it all together and that'll be my first proper 7B, and a quality one at that!

Last night I couldn't do the hanging start and couldn't work out why - turns out it's left hand to undercling before right foot on rail rather than the other way around. I'm surprised it makes so much diffference!

[GCW]

Yeah, that undercut is crucial.  Getting the sequence right makes/ breaks it.  The move to the sidepull is the heartbreaker.

[Fultonius]

  Hit the sidepull on Mugsy Traverse 4 times today from the start. Tore a nice flapper in the skin fold of my first joint on my middle finger.

Next time....maybe next time.