[dpb]

I'm heading to Buoux in October for the first time and, at the mo, the only route recommendations I have are those included in the 'On peak rock' world graded list.  These are Pepsicomane F6a, Afrique physique F6b, La pesanteur ou la grace F6c+, Le loir F7a, No mans land F7b, Autoroute du soleil F7c, Reve de papillon F8a, Chouca F8a+, Le minimum F8c and Agincourt F8c.

I'm looking for must do routes any grade up to 8a+.  Is the above list a good start?  What other routes shouldn't I miss out on?  Anybody know what Reve du pappilon is like after the hard trav?

Cheers

[Bonjoy]

 A couple of those on the On Peak Rock list are now in banned areas unfortunately. Have not been there for a long trip but would highly recommend TCF 7a, Dresden 7a+, Rose De Sable 7a, No Man's Land 7b , Devers Pevers 7b+ (best route I did at Buoux) and Diamandes Son Eternal 7a.
 I didn't rate Reve. Looking at my climbing diary I've written "Nasty polished. No footholds, sharp pockets, crap!" It's a classic example of something being famous/popular for historic rather than quality reasons. That's just my opinion though, some people rate it. I thought Fissure Serge was much better at 8a.

[dpb]

Cheers

Which bits/routes are banned?

[Jaspersharpe]

Which bits/routes are banned?

The West Face. The rest has no access issues as far as i know? 

I agree with Bonjoy, Reve aint a great route (very soft for Buoux 8a though). Diagonale Du Fou is a better 8a as is Fissure Serge mentioned above (used to get 7c+ but is harder than Reve). La Ouate at the La Plage sector also looks amazing but I never tried it. Everything at Bout De Monde is quality.

For mid grade 6b - 7b stuff you can't really go wrong with the routes in the Fakir sector. Invasion Nordique, Le Vieux Homme est Amer, Djihad, Encore et Toujoures etc are all really good. Drilled to fuck but then virtually the whole crag is so you get used to that. Just down from there Dever Dur and Kamikaze are also must do 6c+/7as.

I'd put another vote down for Dresden too but I always thought TCF a bit overrated.

From your list - Afrique Physique and La Pesanteur ou la Grace are in the same sector and both good, especially the latter. Autoroute du Soleil and the other 7b+/7c things in that area are amazing but watch out for the slab cruxes at the top and avoid if it's even slightly hot. Alertez Les Bebes, Drole de Dame and Salsa are all worth doing round there too.

Just down from there Vague De Chaleur, Captain Crochet and Belsens are all excellent.

If you don't like polished slabs then stay away from the right hand end of Styx Wall and Mur Zappa (where the 6b slabs are correctly graded - english tech).

Can't think of any other names off the top of my head (I have no topo here and it was all a long time ago) but I've done over 250 routes there and very few were shit. One thing to be aware of is that the grades are generally "Old Skool" (as in correct) there aren't that many soft touches and a lot of the routes are tough to onsight.

Have a great trip. 

[lagerstarfish]

I remember Courage Fuyons (sp?) 7a being a good line although I might be confusing it with Rose de Sable. Os Court is a very onsightable drilled/chipped 7b(+).
If bouldering is your thing, then Excess de Zeal is worth a shot (v short 7c ish).

[Jaspersharpe]

I remember Courage Fuyons (sp?) 7a being a good line although I might be confusing it with Rose de Sable. Os Court is a very onsightable drilled/chipped 7b(+).
If bouldering is your thing, then Excess de Zeal is worth a shot (v short 7c ish).

Courage Fuyons is an amazing line.

Next to Excess De Zele on La Plage, Acapulco is another good short 7c. Kookabura and Cool Raoul are really good 7a/+ things there. Really steep, big holds, amazing positions. Another one I've not tried but which is supposed to be good there is Un Cadeaux Empoissonee (??) 7b+. It used to be famous for having a BIG runout with the crux at the end of it. Seen some great falls there..........

Oh and another 7a near TCF and better imo is Jolinouile (sp?).

[dpb]

Thanks, I have a pretty good list of things to go at now.

A week in France, Wo HOO!!!!

[Mirf]

Is climbing allowed on the face ouest, elixir de violence, les mains sales etc. They don't seem to appear in the new guide book?

[Jaspersharpe]

It never been allowed but it used to be tolerated. I think it's properly out of bounds now though unfortunately.

[dobbin]

I liked Reve to be honest. It should also be noted that I didnt do it, and Jon's route book comments are correct, it is polished, there are no footholds and the pockets are sharp - whats not to like ;-)

Rose des sables looks amazing.

[tlr]

One unsung little gem that I remember really enjoying was a little route called Entreprise (I think) at 7a. Climbs a rounded arete on slopers (think Ulysses or Bust with bolts and no friction. I couldn't/can't climb steep limestone to save my life so I thought this little gritstone style route was brilliant.

'Twas 18 years ago though, so some or all of the above might not be entirely accurate.

[Jaspersharpe]

Entyprise - I was there when the first ascent was done by an English lad called Enty and I did the second ascent. It is good and something totally different for Buoux. Very balancy! That was 1990 I think.

[lagerstarfish]

One unsung little gem that I remember really enjoying was a little route called Entreprise (I think) at 7a. Climbs a rounded arete on slopers (think Ulysses or Bust with bolts and no friction. I couldn't/can't climb steep limestone to save my life so I thought this little gritstone style route was brilliant.

'Twas 18 years ago though, so some or all of the above might not be entirely accurate.

  I've been racking my brain cell trying to remember what it was called - I enjoyed it.

[lagerstarfish]

Can anyone else name this route before Sharpe eyes does?

Looks pretty good

[mrjonathanr]

One thing to be aware of is that the grades are generally "Old Skool" (as in correct)

Seconded. Can't add much to what's been said before but not sure if Pilier des Fourmis has been mentioned: top pitch has a short English 6a/b crux then just cool 5c climbing up the groove in the arete with nearly 200' of space under your feet.

I'd go and do les Diamants for sure, great pitch. Diagonale looks awesome, on my list if I get back there. Would recommend J'Irai Cracher (7c+), nice contrasting route: technical wall climbing as you do Cage aux Orchidees but then pumpier though still nicely technical pocket pulling to the top.

Have fun


PS: Fin de Siecle Lagers.

PPS Joe Weiders is a fun roof at 7c/8a, especially if footless fridge-hugging is your thing. Just right of it is a 25' stepped roof at 6b+, great fun.

[mrjonathanr]

That Entyprise was fun: I did it on a 'grit' day where we only did grit features, rounded aretes, scoops, slabs - there's even a pure hand-jamming crack over the left side of the crag somewhere.

[shark]

Can anyone else name this route before Sharpe eyes does?

Looks pretty good

I guessed right but bottled it and double-checked first (clue - a route with two names). The article it went with was a nice trip down memory lane (apart from the bit about Le Menestral soloing Revelations).

[Paul B]

I liked Reve to be honest. It should also be noted that I didn't do it, and Jon's route book comments are correct, it is polished, there are no footholds and the pockets are sharp - whats not to like ;-)

Rose des sables looks amazing.

Reve is fairly grim IMO, certainly not the best Buoux has to offer.

All of the routes near TCF are great, the 7a+ up the middle of Styx wall and most of the other routes there are good fun and character building at times.

No mans land is good but get on it early because the traverse is sharp. The otherslightly harder 7's around the corner (to the right) are good.

[Ged]

Stranger than Paradise, the 7b+ arete to the right of n mans land is superb, the best route I did there. 

Rose des sables is obviously brilliant too, and the 7a+ round to the right that finishes up a crack.

[mrjonathanr]

Is that the one with a little roof at the start and then a groove up the line of the arete? Peter Croft dropped me off that. With ropework like that no wonder he took up soloing