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Font 8b- how many UK climbers? (Read 75367 times)

Andy Harris

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#150 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 10:42:11 am
I suspect had he done it there would have been several front covers & numerous articles in climbing mags.

He may have also said something like "it's the limit of bouldering on a rope, unique style, brutally hard, my hardest ascent ever"

As for the start it is quite a span but I can span it so it ain't that big.

Banana finger

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#151 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 11:08:16 am
Nice try Ben.

Hehe, slipping un-noticed onto the wad list was worth a try!
Guess i'll just have to climb an 8b....... :-\

Kingy

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#152 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 11:26:37 am
You would think Evolution would be right up Bocks street- crimpy power endurance! I think Steve Dunning said he got through all the hard climbing on Hubble on his second day but fell higher.

Yeah that's a funny one about Marcus, I guess being a local counts for a lot. If you've climbed at the Tor thousands of times maybe it would only be 8c, for visiting germans maybe it is 8c+? Must be nails compared to some of the Spanish 8c+s!

Regarding the top moves of Hubble, that is unbelievable to fall off on the Revelations slab after doing the 8c+ bit. Its quite tricky to figure out but only a Font 6b/c move or summat once wired. I guess he probably didn't work it properly. 

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#153 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 11:30:18 am
You would think Evolution would be right up Bocks street- crimpy power endurance! I think Steve Dunning said he got through all the hard climbing on Hubble on his second day but fell higher.

Yeah that's a funny one about Marcus, I guess being a local counts for a lot. If you've climbed at the Tor thousands of times maybe it would only be 8c, for visiting germans maybe it is 8c+? Must be nails compared to some of the Spanish 8c+s!

Regarding the top moves of Hubble, that is unbelievable to fall off on the Revelations slab after doing the 8c+ bit. Its quite tricky to figure out but only a Font 6b/c move or summat once wired. I guess he probably didn't work it properly. 


And was probably powered out to the max too!

Nibile

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#154 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 11:35:40 am
i'm well impressed: a similar list of italian pullers would only include, i think, core, caminati, moroni, calibani, moser (and myself next year). do i miss someone else?

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#155 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 11:37:25 am
jesus, it's uncle's ascent of kheops that really impressed me


have to correct you there, unc has not done kheops

dave

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#156 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 11:41:01 am
You would think Evolution would be right up Bocks street- crimpy power endurance! I think Steve Dunning said he got through all the hard climbing on Hubble on his second day but fell higher.

Yeah that's a funny one about Marcus, I guess being a local counts for a lot. If you've climbed at the Tor thousands of times maybe it would only be 8c, for visiting germans maybe it is 8c+? Must be nails compared to some of the Spanish 8c+s!

Regarding the top moves of Hubble, that is unbelievable to fall off on the Revelations slab after doing the 8c+ bit. Its quite tricky to figure out but only a Font 6b/c move or summat once wired. I guess he probably didn't work it properly. 


And was probably powered out to the max too!

isn't there a bit on hubble between the crux and the slabby revelations bit, i.e. the bit that just looks like cracking on those cement fabricated holds? shirley that is fall off-able.

Paul B

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#157 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 11:49:45 am
jesus, it's uncle's ascent of kheops that really impressed me


have to correct you there, unc has not done kheops

 ::)

Kingy

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#158 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 11:56:47 am
isn't there a bit on hubble between the crux and the slabby revelations bit, i.e. the bit that just looks like cracking on those cement fabricated holds? shirley that is fall off-able.

I'm sure it is - I don't know as have never tried. I heard that Steve fell off the slab at the top though, although this might be hearsay.

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#159 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 12:01:36 pm

isn't there a bit on hubble between the crux and the slabby revelations bit, i.e. the bit that just looks like cracking on those cement fabricated holds? shirley that is fall off-able.

Yes. It's about 7c and Moony fell off that bit too IIRC. You shouldn't really be falling off it but I can see why you might as it's not piss. I'm 100% certain that had I managed to link the hard bit I would have had to do it another 5 or six times due to powering out on the "easy" bit. Malc celebrated as if he'd got to the belay when he finished the hard bit, fair enough as he didn't fall off.

andy popp

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#160 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 12:12:49 pm
i'm well impressed: a similar list of italian pullers would only include, i think, core, caminati, moroni, calibani, moser (and myself next year). do i miss someone else?

But probably all of these have also climbed 8B+ or even 8C? Even more impressive in its own way.

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#161 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 12:19:19 pm
Mike Adams did The Ace earlier this year and an 8b in Switzerland, so he needs adding to the list.

Paul B

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#162 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 01:01:05 pm
I thought he'd been added, certainly if not he's been mentioned and n_man is on the money.

Nibile

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#163 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 01:28:45 pm
i'm well impressed: a similar list of italian pullers would only include, i think, core, caminati, moroni, calibani, moser (and myself next year). do i miss someone else?

But probably all of these have also climbed 8B+ or even 8C? Even more impressive in its own way.
that's true, all have climbed 8b+.

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#164 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 02:14:37 pm
Might be going blind but I can't see Mike Adams on the list. Martin Smith has done at least one 8b in Switzerland but I don't know the name of it. Twas at Chironico and then a crucial hold broke off and made it impossible. Can anybody help with the name  :please:

Jaspersharpe

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#165 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 02:17:18 pm
General Disarray.

He's on the list I believe.

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#166 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 05:49:48 pm
Thanks Jasper.

Looked back to page 5 on this thread and couldn't see his name on the 'quoted' list from an earlier page or am I going bog-eyed?

a dense loner

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#167 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 05:56:36 pm
jesus, it's uncle's ascent of kheops that really impressed me


have to correct you there, unc has not done kheops

for the benefit of everybody who read that thinking unc had done kheops. i knew unc hadn't done kheops which is why i drew attention to that particular problem out of all the reported 8b's that he's done ie. this was not one of them. i read that he'd done it, reported by percy in one of last months mags. wanting to be seen trying to touch his cloak i txted him congrats on doing it, he promptly flipped since he had not done it, and much hilarity followed. i then withdrew my arm

dolph has been mentioned at least 3 times
martin is on the list, he's also called shaggy...

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#168 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 06:08:06 pm
I'm going blind. Definitely. I just can't see Martins name or Shaggy.

Personally I have less imaginatively called him Smithy.

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#169 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 06:11:35 pm
I'm going blind. Definitely. I just can't see Martins name or Shaggy.

Personally I have less imaginatively called him Smithy.

christ he's down as Terrace Ghost, General dissaray , Brione, he also has done Schule de lebens from a  low start- who knows what grade this is though

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#170 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 06:36:34 pm
Cheers Doylo. Don't feel the need to refer to me as your saviour though.

Terrace Ghost indeed hmmmm

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#171 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 07:18:54 pm
Apologies to Don Jebus and n_man.  Clearly using UKB names isn't clear, so they've been swapped.


8b or above
Mike Adams- The Ace
Paul Bennett- Voyager
Matt Birch- The Swarm
Keith Bradbury- Gourmandise
Jordan Buys- Isla de Encanta
Jamie Cassidy- Director's Cut
Danny Cattell- Louis Armstrong
Greg Chapman- Anesthesia
Nick Clement- Anesthesia
Tim Clifford- Singularity
Chris Davies- Daisy from Concrete
Steve Dunning- High Fidelity
Neil Dyer- Silk Cut
Andy Earl- High Fidelity
Mark Katz- Isla de Encanta
John Gaskins- Isla de Encanta
Tyler Landman- The Ace
Dave MacLeod- Pressure
Steve McClure- Close of Business
Jerry Moffatt- The Ace
Ben Moon- High Fidelity
Si Moore- Nuthin' but Sunshine
Jason Myers- Brad Pit Original Sequence (honorary for being a wad)
Dave Noden- Full Circle
Mickey Paige- Kheops Assis
Gaz Parry- Isla de Encanta
Ryan Pasquill- Spectre
James Pearson- General Disarray
Tom Peckitt- Real Keelhaul
Rich Simpson- Malc's Start
Malc Smith-  The Ace
Paul Smitton- Staminaband/ Pump up the Power
Ian Vickers- Anesthesia
Stewart Watson- The Riverbed

8a+/8b
Richard Ames- Nana Blanca
Dave Barrans- 8ball
Ben Bransby- 8ball
Liam Desroy- Great Shark Hunt
Huffy?
Jeff Landman- Freshly Squeezed?
Jason Myers- Brad Pit original sequence
Sean Myles?
Tom Newman- Bloodsport
Dan Varian- Bigger Belly




8b+ or above
Matt Birch- The Swarm
Tim Clifford- Singularity
Chris Davies- East Coker
Steve Dunning- Dreamtime
Andy Earl- Monk Life
John Gaskins- Walk Away SDS
Tyler Landman- Jade
Ben Moon- Voyager SS
Mickey Paige- Kheops Assis
Rich Simpson- Staminaband/ Pump up the Power
Malc Smith-  Monk Life
Paul Smitton- Staminaband/ Pump up the Power

a dense loner

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#172 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 07:43:19 pm
no disrespect to rich or jason, nana blanca shouldn't be in there and neither should a stupid sequence, nor should sean if he hasn't done a problem at that grade (if he has then of course). to point out what i'm trying to say before everyone jumps down my throat we'll take fred. everything should begin and end with him, he is the alpha and the omega. but really, fred is at the absolute cutting edge of our pastime if he gives something 8c which he does a lot and then the hounds come rushing to repeat and they downgrade it to 8b+. we, meaning people of sane mind, would then consider the problem 8b+. lipsol facto not 8c

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#173 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 07:46:36 pm
id love to see a list of how many have done more than say 5 8b's. would be interesting to see!

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#174 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 07:50:13 pm
We seem to have come to rest at 33/34 that we know about.

 

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