Gritstone Slabs (Read 20755 times)

Houdini · July 25, 2008, 10:31:26 am

Fuck both. It's slate weather.

dave · July 25, 2008, 10:45:42 am

boy those slate crags on the outskirts of sheffield will be busy this weekend.

Houdini · July 25, 2008, 10:51:06 am

You've been funnier, Dave

Fiend · July 25, 2008, 11:29:33 am

Come on JB it's 25'c, minimum breeze, maximum mugginess, even you'll be heading down the Cornice

Johnny Brown · July 25, 2008, 12:23:37 pm

Where the humidity will be a suffocating 100%. No ta. I'll wait for a westerly breeze before heading down there.

Slide · July 25, 2008, 12:43:48 pm

Bringin the grit back. I got out last night at apparent north and ticked off a couple of projects. Backatcha!

tommytwotone · July 25, 2008, 01:36:08 pm

I went to Burbage North, nearly slipped off one of the moves of Black Slab while soloing and then got spat off a VS lead. Went home in a huff after that.

Slide · July 25, 2008, 01:45:13 pm

Dont want to point out the obvious but you were in the sun and out the wind! i on the other hand.........
You wouldnt see a surfer going out without checkin the forecast.

Plattsy · July 25, 2008, 01:47:12 pm

Thought the friction was pants to start with at Rivelin last night but soon improved. No slips.

Plattsy · July 25, 2008, 01:55:03 pm

Speaking of Rivelin and slabs. The already mentioned Brush Off E4/5 has Party Animal E2/3 and Fringe Benefit E1 next door.

Fiend · July 25, 2008, 02:27:34 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on July 25, 2008, 12:23:37 pm

Where the humidity will be a suffocating 100%. No ta. I'll wait for a westerly breeze before heading down there.

Hmmm, you seem to know too much about lime conditions, Mr Brown $:-\$

Moorland grit is probably where it's at anyway.

Will Hunt · July 25, 2008, 09:47:49 pm

The rock today was somewhat clammy. Went to Burbage North until the sun hit it full on before moving to South and doing a couple of routes in the quarries. Left home at half five to get in a full day. Fella giving us a lift from Hathersage was pretty perplexed by our keenness in face of such terrible conditions. All was well though.
The hand traverse on Now Or Never was somewhat spice-ay in the heat.
Then I got the squits and had to walk to the Fox House to relieve myself

GCW · July 25, 2008, 09:56:06 pm

Quote from: Will Hunt on July 25, 2008, 09:47:49 pm

Then I got the squits and had to walk to the Fox House to relieve myself

Thanks for your input, as ever, William

[or should that be output?]

Slide · July 26, 2008, 10:57:16 am

I assume 'the squits' aint no route and you were so exited you had to go to the Fox House to 'Relieve yourself'!?!?

butters · July 26, 2008, 05:56:04 pm

Quote from: Fiend on July 25, 2008, 02:27:34 pm

Moorland grit is probably where it's at anyway.

Wouldn't bother with Kinder Northern Edges for at least another week - most of it was alternating between just plain damp and a lovely shade of green on Wednesday.

bluebrad

Fiend · July 26, 2008, 06:09:31 pm

Really?? One would hope that might have changed given it's been dry and hot for the 4 days since then...

butters · July 26, 2008, 06:34:27 pm

Quote from: Fiend on July 26, 2008, 06:09:31 pm

Really?? One would hope that might have changed given it's been dry and hot for the 4 days since then...

It may well be in condition now and if the weather continues like it has been for a few more days then it will improve. However on Wednesday Legacy was apparently suffering with wet hand holds on the traverse, Eureka was soaked low down, Jester Cracks looked absolutely gopping on the crux and Twisted Smile was suffering with huge green streaks and general wetness. Of those four the only one that I would be reasonably sure of being in a climbable condition would be Legacy.

bluebrad

Falling Down · July 28, 2008, 12:02:30 pm

Good knowledge.. I'm glad I didn't walk up there yesterday then!

I was at Staden on Saturday and did all the routes on the main wall (apart from the E5 and the funny eliminates). A great day out in perfect Summer climbing conditions.

slackline · July 28, 2008, 12:06:35 pm

Quote from: Falling Down on July 28, 2008, 12:02:30 pm

I was at Staden on Saturday and did all the routes on the main wall (apart from the E5 and the funny eliminates). A great day out in perfect Summer climbing conditions.

was up at Dovestone Tor yesterday. Great Buttress was very green, but everything was bone dry and it was gorgeous.

Paz · July 28, 2008, 01:33:56 pm

JB - Cheers for the Cornice/ westerlies tip, but not just for slabs, where exactly would you be heading on the grit at the moment? Hen cloud? The Shinning Clough? Just anywhere in the shade or anywhere that's god but green and dank all winter?

Quote from: Plattsy on July 25, 2008, 01:55:03 pm

Brush Off E4/5

<gradebagging> Did you hit the wrong numbers, or do you or someone else think this is really E4/5? If so can I please have a list of all the other E5s you think this is comparable to. </gradebagging>

Isn't Rivelin Midgy AF right now anyway?

Plattsy · July 28, 2008, 01:55:46 pm

Quote from: Paz on July 28, 2008, 01:33:56 pm

JB - Cheers for the Cornice/ westerlies tip, but not just for slabs, where exactly would you be heading on the grit at the moment? Hen cloud? The Shinning Clough? Just anywhere in the shade or anywhere that's god but green and dank all winter?

Quote from: Plattsy on July 25, 2008, 01:55:03 pm
Brush Off E4/5

<gradebagging> Did you hit the wrong numbers, or do you or someone else think this is really E4/5? If so can I please have a list of all the other E5s you think this is comparable to. </gradebagging>

Isn't Rivelin Midgy AF right now anyway?

I was working from memory but thought I remember reading the latest BMC guide went E5/E3/E1 left to right on the slab and Rockfax online went E4/E2/E1. Just checked Rockfax and they're correct. I'll have to wait until I get home to see if I've got the grade for The Brush Off mixed up with Grim Fandango.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=9709

It was midgey around the Needle but don't remember any midges near the slab or around Altar Crack.

Fiend · July 28, 2008, 02:00:44 pm

They are E3/4 (tending to the latter), E2/3, and E1/2 (tending to the former). I liked Party Animal quite a lot.

Paz: I'd still go up to Kinder North myself. Failing that....Hen Cloud is fine in winter. Shining Clough is good, Laddow ain't bad as it's all bimbly there. Wimberry of course, what a quality crag that is. Dovestones Edge too. Basically anything North-facing, higher the better.

Teaboy · July 28, 2008, 02:24:38 pm

Quote from: bluebrad on July 26, 2008, 06:34:27 pm

Quote from: Fiend on July 26, 2008, 06:09:31 pm
Really?? One would hope that might have changed given it's been dry and hot for the 4 days since then...

It may well be in condition now and if the weather continues like it has been for a few more days then it will improve. However on Wednesday Legacy was apparently suffering with wet hand holds on the traverse, Eureka was soaked low down, Jester Cracks looked absolutely gopping on the crux and Twisted Smile was suffering with huge green streaks and general wetness. Of those four the only one that I would be reasonably sure of being in a climbable condition would be Legacy.

bluebrad

Did Jester and Twisted on Saturday, both fine but but Twisted was very green looking. Don't be tempted to walk in from the top of Snake Pass its a long dull trudge better to go up from Snake Inn.

butters · July 28, 2008, 04:07:00 pm

Quote from: Teaboy on July 28, 2008, 02:24:38 pm

Did Jester and Twisted on Saturday, both fine but but Twisted was very green looking. Don't be tempted to walk in from the top of Snake Pass its a long dull trudge better to go up from Snake Inn.

Will have to hope that this dry spell holds out for another week to 10 days then as there is no way I can get up there to get on those routes before then...

bluebrad

Johnny Brown · July 28, 2008, 05:07:09 pm

No fuckin way is Brush Off E5. And thank fuck for that, we're back on topic.

Gritstone Slabs (Read 20755 times)

dave