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Gritstone Slabs (Read 20773 times)

stom

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Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 09:08:01 am
As I’m recovering from a bout of elbow tendonosis and have got a week off work next week I’m looking for some suggestions for quality gritstone routes in the E3-E5 range in the Sheffield area – preferably slabby in nature as it’ll save me destroying my elbows.

Any suggestions gratefully received.

Tom

dave

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#1 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 09:14:44 am
i would have thought it'd be too hot/midgey for grit e5 slabs, as they tend to be thin and no gear but here goes:

great slab
downhill racer
hairless heart
heartless hare
artless
don't slip now
trickledown fairy
finger distance
el vino collapso
stopper
beautician
tempest
everything at rivelin quarry (think midge death)
pebble mill
LH line on millwheel wall
wall end slab direct
......

lagerstarfish

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#2 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 09:19:38 am
4 pebble slab (froggat) - no elbows required

tommytwotone

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#3 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 10:08:03 am
Brush Off
Parallel Piped
Telli
The Snivelling

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#4 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 10:11:14 am
Loads at Bamford

dave

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#5 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 10:23:50 am
Loads at Bamford

...such as? I can only think of 1 or maybe 2 E3-5 slab routes at bamford, and thats smoked salmon (a bit wierd, not real slabbing) and that direct on the egg thing. both E5?.

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#6 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 10:55:09 am


...such as? I can only think of 1 or maybe 2 E3-5 slab routes at bamford, and thats smoked salmon (a bit wierd, not real slabbing) and that direct on the egg thing. both E5?.

Jet Runner? Wall/slab into an arete?

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#7 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 10:56:18 am
Loads at Bamford

...such as? I can only think of 1 or maybe 2 E3-5 slab routes at bamford, and thats smoked salmon (a bit wierd, not real slabbing) and that direct on the egg thing. both E5?.

Nice sandbag

Smoked Salmon E7 7a (may be listed differently in t'proper definitive guide though)

dave

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#8 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 10:57:55 am
poached, smoked, whatever.

I'd forgot about jetrunner (probably cos at the side of all the froggatt slabs it ain't great).

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#9 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 11:08:20 am
Parallel Piped is more an arete that a slab, I'd have said.  Also, it's not the best route- one awkward move from the break, done.  Would suit the elbows though.
Since it's going to be hot you may be better off going for something like Very Far Skyline, albeit some things are likely overgraded and a bit squeezed in.
I'd second Pebble Mill, may be a bit shadier?
Isn't there something at Black Rocks?

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#10 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 11:54:01 am
Burb South, life insurance for an easy E6? or how about snivilling E5 at Millstone. Tek your ski boots!

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#11 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 12:25:29 pm


.......is the word. Spend the week off sipping gin and tonics on the veranda while the elbows heal.

aly

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#12 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 12:35:57 pm
Whilst we're (sort of) on the subject I noticed the other day that somebody has cut down the tree by Benign Lives.  Maybe this winter is the time to go and do Mild (which the tree got the way of).  It will probably make BL more aesthetically pleasing as well, which is good as it's a fantastic route.

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#13 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 12:43:25 pm
Done all my hardest Grit routes and Problems in July's bizzarly.

If the weather is cold and windy enough and you choose your venue wisely then all but the hardest is do-able IMHO

Jaspersharpe

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#14 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 01:53:04 pm
If the weather is cold and windy enough and you choose your venue wisely then all but the hardest is do-able IMHO


Possibly true but I was just considering the fact that yesterday evening it was still over 26 degrees and sweaty as fuck at half six. Not even lime weather, unless you were slicing it and putting it in your G&T.  :)

Whilst we're (sort of) on the subject I noticed the other day that somebody has cut down the tree by Benign Lives. 

Oh no........

« Last Edit: July 24, 2008, 02:13:06 pm by Jaspersharpe »

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#15 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 02:00:58 pm
Defo the G&T weather at the moment thats for sure.....with one eye on metcheck!!

stom

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#16 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 02:47:44 pm
Thanks I think there's more there than is possible in a week especially as it so hot at the moment!
Quote
 

.......is the word. Spend the week off sipping gin and tonics on the veranda while the elbows heal.

After 4 weeks of resting and not climbing I'm getting very twitchy!  I figure my skin will probably be the first thing to go especially if its warm.  Lime would be preferable but my elbows would probably blow out again.

dave

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#17 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 03:03:40 pm
get to staden quarry, do some limestone slab routes there. cool and shady, great crag. stuff in the E3-E5 range, like welcome to hard times direct finish, paraplege, telescopic demand, game of chess etc etc. also the E1s are all superb.

Jaspersharpe

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#18 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 03:09:50 pm
Good call dave. North facing IIRC so nice and cool. Some great technical routes at Staden.

stom

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#19 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 03:52:54 pm
Quote
Insert Quote
get to staden quarry, do some limestone slab routes there. cool and shady, great crag. stuff in the E3-E5 range, like welcome to hard times direct finish, paraplege, telescopic demand, game of chess etc etc. also the E1s are all superb.

Sounds good I'll have to check it out although past experiences with trad lime have never been that great.  Always preferred sport routes!

dave

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#20 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 03:59:43 pm
seriously, staden is great - god rock quality, good lines, friendly aspect andalthough quarried its kinda on a natural fault plane or whatever so you've got some faux natural features, grooves, stalactites etc.

aly

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#21 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 24, 2008, 06:53:11 pm

Whilst we're (sort of) on the subject I noticed the other day that somebody has cut down the tree by Benign Lives. 

Oh no........



Don't panic, I think with some bolt-on holds and a big clipstick it is still just about climbable. 
Oh, hang on a minute...   ::)

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#22 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 25, 2008, 09:50:57 am
get to staden quarry, do some limestone slab routes there. cool and shady, great crag. stuff in the E3-E5 range, like welcome to hard times direct finish, paraplege, telescopic demand, game of chess etc etc. also the E1s are all superb.

The E2s are great...!

Staden main face is the best bit of lime in the Peak.

Johnny Brown

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#23 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 25, 2008, 10:00:26 am
Much as I like Staden, the main wall routes aren't slab climbing, just wall climbing at a friendly angle. Paraplege and the one next to it, and that E5 further left are slab climbing but rather less friendly.

I know its summer but the speed with which a thread on gritstone has gone south is disappointing to say the least.

Jaspersharpe

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#24 Re: Gritstone Slabs
July 25, 2008, 10:10:34 am
 :lol:

Show a bit of love for the lime JB.

 :kiss2:

 

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