[andy_e]

Might have been rupert, he was keen to get out. What does Mindbending do? I don't understand... too many links!

[nik at work]

Could a member of the Almscliff massive peer into their tea leaves and predict which will be the choice day this weekend? Or is it going to be a write-off of rain and misery?
All predictions gratefully recieved.

[Stubbs]

It may be dry, but it looks like it's going to be windy as fuck both days, sunday looks like the better choice out of the two
http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/FREE/dayforecast.asp?zipcode=ls21&day=2

bring some tent pegs for your mat and your dog!

[nik at work]

Hmmmmmm, maybe try and persuade the family to stay at home. Or pack them off to the farm shop cafe for cake and coffee again.

[Johnny Brown]

Who was your local then?

Neil d. He got to the same place as me, though he did reckon you could pop to the left hand pocket instead.

Did you try waynes wonderful world or mindbending

Don't know where they were to be honest. Its a good three years since I was last there, and seven since I was there regularly...

[TomP]

I think Andy will be pleased to know that I repeated his masterpiece, Making Shapes, on Friday. I had tried it once before (the day I did Bulbhaul) in dwindling light and falling off the last move to the big pocket. The same happened on Friday, skin was sore and light was scarce, I'd latched the crux a few times before holding the final jug.

I can certainly vouch for its quality. One of the best problems at the cliff. I always liked pistol whip but I reckon this is better due to its sheer blankness. I gather Andy did the last move to the big pocket first go (not sure if he had worked the move on top rope or not). I thought this move was harder than he gave credit for. I soon dicoverd the key was to get a good LF placement, after much frustration!

Well done Andy, another neo-classic!!!!! 

As for grade, I think probably harder than 7c but not quite 8a so, by default, 7c+ seems fair! Andy said it is the hardest thing he has done so I reckon that is a good indicator that it is more than 7c. Maybe a crimpy, technical Bleusard could walk up it but I'd like to think not. Nice one mate!

[Will Hunt]

Caley and Almscliff in the same day. Not bad.

[TomP]

It was more a quest for the sun!!! I've had enough of freezing my arse off at the crag now. Bring on Font in April. Conditions won't be great but hopefully it'll be warm!

[uptown]

I think Andy will be pleased to know that I repeated his masterpiece, Making Shapes, on Friday. I had tried it once before (the day I did Bulbhaul) in dwindling light and falling off the last move to the big pocket. The same happened on Friday, skin was sore and light was scarce, I'd latched the crux a few times before holding the final jug.

I can certainly vouch for its quality. One of the best problems at the cliff. I always liked pistol whip but I reckon this is better due to its sheer blankness.
Well done Andy, another neo-classic!!!!! 

As for grade, I think probably harder than 7c but not quite 8a so, by default, 7c+ seems fair! Andy said it is the hardest thing he has done so I reckon that is a good indicator that it is more than 7c. Maybe a crimpy, technical Bleusard could walk up it but I'd like to think not. Nice one mate!

Well done Tom!
It's refreshing to finally see a repeat and hear some positive comments about what may prove to be my swansong.
Making shapes probably deserves to be at a different crag or in a different county.
Seeing as it's taken you specific beta and several (albeit short) sessions, I can't see the repeat floodgates opening, and I wouldn't argue with 7c+/8a.
The skillset necessary to climb this kind of problem is a rarity in blodderers nowadays, and I fear it'll be overlooked as a consequence. That's one of the reasons I was touting 8a - in the hope that the numberchasers might be inspired to try it.
It'd be good to see Phoenix wall get some attention now - old skool class doesn't get much better than that.

[TomP]

Making shapes probably deserves to be at a different crag or in a different county.
Seeing as it's taken you specific beta and several (albeit short) sessions, I can't see the repeat floodgates opening, and I wouldn't argue with 7c+/8a.
The skillset necessary to climb this kind of problem is a rarity in blodderers nowadays, and I fear it'll be overlooked as a consequence. That's one of the reasons I was touting 8a - in the hope that the numberchasers might be inspired to try it.
It'd be good to see Phoenix wall get some attention now - old skool class doesn't get much better than that.

I love these sort of problems, there's just not enough of them around. Slim Shady at Earl springs to mind but it's no way near as asthetic as MS. It could be 8a. I can't really think of that many 8a walls though. Done quite a few 7c+ walls in Font years ago and it seems about the same or slightly harder. Going to Font in late April so could do a comparison check then!
Keen to try Pheonix Wall too Andy.

[nik at work]

Tom go to Rivelin Quarries and try Nik's Wall. Unrepeated 8A wall climbing.

[GCW]

 

[TomP]

Never heard of that problem before. I'll try to make my way over. Any pics or descriptions of it/where it is?

[slackline]

Never heard of that problem before. I'll try to make my way over. Any pics or descriptions of it/where it is?

  Search the forums, its been mentioned "once or twice" 

[Stubbs]

The description Burbage "To Infinity and Beyond" is best, how much did you have to pay Grimer for that Nik?

[nik at work]

Grimer looked after me very well in that guidebook and as such is always welcome to call round for tea and cake. No specific payment was discussed but now I'm getting nervous....

I was sure I banged on and on about this problem endlessly but in the light of Toms ignorance I will have to re-double my efforts.

Modesty prevents me quoting Burbage, Millstone and beyond here...

...oh to hell with it.

Nik's Wall  V11 (7a)
After many hours spent with a powerful; microscope, you may notice that there are some crimps on this wall. When you learn that this wall has been climbed on these holds, you may wish to readjust your concept of the possible.

Nice, incidentally whilst in the area you may want to check out:
 

Probably one of the ten purest pieces of gritstone architecture - barely climbable.

[TomP]

Please forgive my ignorance. My encyclopedic knowledge of this forum isn't up to scratch yet 

If I can get my hands on a microscope I'll check it out when I manage to get out of sight of Leeds - some day soon hopefully!

[GCW]

Search the forums, its been mentioned "once or twice"  per week

On a serious note, get yourself up there, Tom.  Get it sent and put us all out of our misery.

[SA Chris]

Search the forums, its been mentioned "once or twice"  per week

On a serious note, get yourself up there, Tom.  Get it sent and put us all out of our misery.

(and downgrade it)

[GCW]

Sadly, I think that's rather unlikely. 

[TomP]

Right had a look through the threads for info. The only details I can get is it's hard, the footholds are shit, the handholds are shit and no-one else has done it. Couldn't see any photos. My curiosity is bulging (for want of a better phrase). Keen for a trip. In fact I'm visiting family in Rotherham next weekend, I could theoretically make it over if my exhaust doesn't fall of and my tyres don't burst (long overdue service).
Anyone keen to point out pieces of rock to me?

[uptown]

Tom go to Rivelin Quarries and try Nik's Wall. Unrepeated 8A wall climbing.

I'll pander to Niks ego here and suggest that 8a might be a touch conservative for this piece of rock. 
I'd have to giggle if the second ascent went down to a non-local though.
I'll happily show you round there Tom, but don't expect a quick tick from it!

[nik at work]

Oh Guru you sweetie...

The footholds are actually not that bad Tom, keep us posted on how you get on. I'd offer to show you round myself but I'm no longer a Sheffield local. The other problems next to it are also good (Iain's Arete, Happy Campus, Cheeks and Beaks) and the Guru probably has an ulterior motive for showing you round as he has a couple of choice items of his own he'll no doubt point you at.

[r-man]

Grimer's description of Nik's Wall is at odds with most first people's first impressions. Most people think, "Hey, I can see holds, they don't look that bad - I think I can see the sequence..." Several grunts later, the computer says eh-uh.

Whilst you're there, please repeat Beak no Weevil and tell me what grade you think it is. Right arete of the Mini Beak roof, feet above the break. Cheers!

[TomP]

Right the pressure is mounting, I don't want to disappoint anyone now It sounds like a good place to visit and plenty of stuff to go at. I saw that Cheeks and Beaks thread, nice looking problem and rock.

Can't remember the last time I climbed in the Peak (may have been about 3 years ago when doing my dissertation at Stanage). I wish I was still a student and not in these permanent 9-5 shackles. I always find myself preoccupied with something up here and put a visit off. I've been on a FA mission for a few years now and struggled to get out of Yorkshire. There is some stuff I really want to do in the Peak, a couple of hard overhanging things that look my style. I may have missed prime conditions til winter? 8a (or harder) wall climbing is not my usual forte but I'm keen for Rivelin now. Will a local be able to tell me if something like the Ace/Joker/Voyager will still be in condition in a couple of weeks time (without getting up at a ridiculous hour)? I understand that JB did the Joker recently.

Cheers for all the info (and offer of a climbing date UTG  )