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New lowball at Almscliff (Read 14352 times)

Pantontino

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#50 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 16, 2008, 06:52:19 pm
One of the best problems I did at Font this year was 6b Traveaux Forces,  http://new.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=67280
 

It is indeed a great problem. 

 :agree: A real cracker!

Pantontino

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#51 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 16, 2008, 06:56:33 pm
Oh, and one final thing - is The Keel really 7c? Is that what people reckon these days?

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#52 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 16, 2008, 07:02:03 pm
Oh, and one final thing - is The Keel really 7c? Is that what people reckon these days?

In keeping with the young guys taking down  big numbers thread, I thought benchmark V4.

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#53 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 16, 2008, 11:31:40 pm
Oh, and one final thing - is The Keel really 7c? Is that what people reckon these days?

well, you tell us..

back in the day you took the 10 didn't ya?

SA Chris

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#54 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 17, 2008, 08:17:08 am
Brand new bouldering guide for the county is just out too.

And Vol2 of Yorkshire guide will have Brown Beck in it :devangel:

Wonder if my prob will get a mention. At 6b probably not.

Why not, there are some excellent and very hard 6b's out there. One of the best problems I did at Font this year was 6b Traveaux Forces,  http://new.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=67280
 

I haven't looked at the new guides, but got the impression they were aimed more at higher grades than lower ones. Not being critical of probs at the grade at all.

Pantontino

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#55 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 17, 2008, 09:09:51 am
Oh, and one final thing - is The Keel really 7c? Is that what people reckon these days?

well, you tell us..

back in the day you took the 10 didn't ya?

Too right, that glorious double figure B grade - who wouldn't.  ;)

And apologies Steve, I forgot to mention you in the roll call of Yorkshire folk. See Tom, there are loads of Yorkies on here.

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#56 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 17, 2008, 09:43:08 am
Oh, and one final thing - is The Keel really 7c? Is that what people reckon these days?

7b+ in my book, though top end. Grades mentioned on the list are from the definitive guides.
Do you know about the history of Blackhead btw? Can you ask Streaky if not? I think he did it with the bolt hole - I've got Doug Shepherd written down somewhere for an ascent without but he might be a giant? Anyhow - a superb 7b/+ morpho highball which probably deserves inclusion.
Do you still think DWR would just scrape 7a or were you just fit and strong back then?  :whistle:

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#57 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 17, 2008, 11:21:20 am
Maybe they feel UKB is a 'peakie' site and hence not worthy of attention. I've always found it odd how much I get jibed by yorks/lancs climbers for being a 'peakie', when 'peakies' have no corresponding name or stance towards yorks/lancs climbers.
 Maybe it comes from a desire to keep yorkshire's secrets safe from marauding southerners.
 Maybe it's just because the Yorkshiregrit site is really good and additional publicity is not considered worth persuing.

Ah Yorkshire, how I miss thee - putting a graded list up for Almscliff when I'm nine timezones away in the jungle almost made me cry  :'(

I've found a problem with UKB in Yorkshire is that a lot of people only get pointed to topics that have gone in a bad direction - the most recent example being the yorks guidebook/2001dave topic, which was how a few yorkshire peeps were introduced to UKB.  These sort of topics get a lot of attention, and people don't see past these to the really useful sections like beta and training.  Also a large proportion of yorkshire climbers (that I know at least) are teachers, and therefore do not have time to waste during the day when they should be working sat in front of a computer!

ps keep your filthy peakie mits off our projects! Except the Rylstone one, that needs to be sent - it will be amazing!

Andy B

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#58 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 18, 2008, 10:25:19 am
Also a large proportion of yorkshire climbers (that I know at least) are teachers, and therefore do not have time to waste during the day when they should be working sat in front of a computer!

They clearly need to change schools. Proffesor Scouse D is on here all the time.
As for me, it's our last day of term and I'm determined to do absolutely fuck all work today.

dave

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#59 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 18, 2008, 10:36:23 am
I'm determined to do absolutely fuck all work today.

welcome to my world.

shoulnd't you traditionally be playing Connect4 or Kerplunk?

Andy B

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#60 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 18, 2008, 10:38:35 am
Kerplunk?

With our kids?

I'd leave work looking like a pin cushion!

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#61 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 18, 2008, 12:37:03 pm
Also a large proportion of yorkshire climbers (that I know at least) are teachers, and therefore do not have time to waste during the day when they should be working sat in front of a computer!

 :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

I feel that your statement should be true, but unfortunately I am not so dedicated and can nearly always find the time. 

Kerplunk?

With our kids?

I'd leave work looking like a pin cushion!

Likewise, except that with my class I'd just end up at A&E getting bits of semi-chewed plastic removed from various pupils stomachs.

Pantontino

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#62 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
July 31, 2008, 12:40:38 pm
Oh, and one final thing - is The Keel really 7c? Is that what people reckon these days?

7b+ in my book, though top end. Grades mentioned on the list are from the definitive guides.
Do you know about the history of Blackhead btw? Can you ask Streaky if not? I think he did it with the bolt hole - I've got Doug Shepherd written down somewhere for an ascent without but he might be a giant? Anyhow - a superb 7b/+ morpho highball which probably deserves inclusion.
Do you still think DWR would just scrape 7a or were you just fit and strong back then?  :whistle:

Spoke to Streaky and he explained what happened with Blackhead. There was an old bolt on it, so he pulled it out (leaving a hole) and climbed the line, continuing to the top of the crag with a rope on. Chris Sowden then took umbrage for some reason and filled the dish/hole left by the old bolt. This meant that the line was now more morpho, but still possible (although Chris did not climb it). Streaky re-climbed it with a reachy move. He reckoned it was a better problem/route before the hold filling. This all happened in the early 80s; he wasn't sure what year.

DWR - isn't that standard 7a?  ;)

a dense loner

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#63 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
August 01, 2008, 12:11:36 pm
Fashion Guru is ex Yorkshire and so am I, Johnny Brown, El Mocho.

hallowed company indeed

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#64 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
August 01, 2008, 01:18:52 pm
I take exception to being labelled 'ex-yorkshire'. I lam from Cheshire, and once lived in Leeds for 18 months as an experiment.

SA Chris

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#65 Re: New lowball at Almscliff
August 01, 2008, 01:41:00 pm
I've heard that pays well, but there can be side effects.

 

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