[Kingy]

Just seen this and would like to back up Andy on this. The pocket had indeed got bigger when I tried it in October/november last year before the floods came in. With my sausage fingers, I stuggled to fit them both fully in the pocket so there was still an element of 'stack' for me. I personally found the move desparate but once you start believing that you will hang that horrible tooth which you jump for then it becomes doable.

It may be a little stiff for font 7c as a boulder problem for those with fat fingers taking into account the starting set up moves as well which are no picnic. Therefore I would perhaps err on the side of 8a+/8b in comparison to the likes of Caviar or Beluga.

[Kingy]

Got back on this yesterday and the moves moving past the 2nd bolt beyond the good LH hold at the end of the boulder problem have altered during to rockfall (there is a large area of fresh, fragile, unweathered rock). The boulder problem up to there is unchanged. It now seems very hard beyond the 2nd and the rock left behind is very crumbly and brittle sadly. Rubble was raining down on my belayer at one point while I checked out different possibilities.

Some stabilisation may be possible to bring the route back to a doable state. A reascent is needed - hopefully this won't go the way of other Rubicon 'classics' like Tribes or Eugenics and become horribly unbalanced or impossible.

[haydn jones]

Luckily you caught the football sized bit instead of dropping it on my head though! 

[Wood FT]

Got back on this yesterday and the moves moving past the 2nd bolt beyond the good LH hold at the end of the boulder problem have altered during to rockfall (there is a large area of fresh, fragile, unweathered rock). The boulder problem up to there is unchanged. It now seems very hard beyond the 2nd and the rock left behind is very crumbly and brittle sadly. Rubble was raining down on my belayer at one point while I checked out different possibilities.

Some stabilisation may be possible to bring the route back to a doable state. A reascent is needed - hopefully this won't go the way of other Rubicon 'classics' like Tribes or Eugenics and become horribly unbalanced or impossible.

Good to see your training for the Dru is going well Ted!