a mono stack!
Tricky one this. It's definately a notch harder than the true bouldery peak 8a+ routes (egPUTP, Culloden, Inch Test, Dialectics). I guess as always repeats will confirm or not.
Doylo the upgrader
Got back on this yesterday and the moves moving past the 2nd bolt beyond the good LH hold at the end of the boulder problem have altered during to rockfall (there is a large area of fresh, fragile, unweathered rock). The boulder problem up to there is unchanged. It now seems very hard beyond the 2nd and the rock left behind is very crumbly and brittle sadly. Rubble was raining down on my belayer at one point while I checked out different possibilities.Some stabilisation may be possible to bring the route back to a doable state. A reascent is needed - hopefully this won't go the way of other Rubicon 'classics' like Tribes or Eugenics and become horribly unbalanced or impossible.