[jed]

Just though I would get a different veiw point on this.

I find I dead hang much worse open handed than crimped or half crimped.
While I suppose this is common I wondered If any body else questions the need to push them selves to there max when training finger strength open handed on a fingerboard.

I have only ever injured my self when open handing to my max on a fingerboard. I wonder weather It is a worth while training exercise at all?

[dave]

if you're injuring yourself deadhanging then you're probably doing something wrong somewhere - possibly not warming up enough, or going straight out of the gate balls deep? i''ve deadhanged almost exclusivly open or 1/2 crimped for years with no problems. though i'm not doing the kinda thing where i can only just pick myself up, instead going for 5-8 second hands. is this any good to you? you'll probably have to be more specific about what you're calling your "max".

[jed]

By Max I mean 2-8 second hangs depending on where I am with a specific exercise.
I should of mentioned I hang from a 10mm edge and Always feel more comfortable crimped/half crimped.

Sounds as if open handed might be a personel weakness.

[Nibile]

if you search the forum you'll find many threads about general deadhanging.

so, on the business:
- many people (one for all jollypower.com) recommend NOT to deadhang full crimped, because it's more dangerous, due to the angles of the finger, and because it's not fully training (the angles of the fingers teamed with the thumb wrapped on to the index create a mechanical lock with bones that takes part of the effort from the tendons;
- so you should deadhang mostly half crimped with no thumb, leaving the full crimp for the bouldering waal and for few deadhanging sessions;
- also you shouldn't deadhang openhanded on EDGES because, again it's not training given that alot of the effort is sustained by the skin of those fingers that actually catch the edge of the hold. moreover, it's very common to use just three fingers, because the pinkie is too short to catch the hold with the other fingers stretched.
in my opinion (what i do):
- deadhang half crimped with no thumb;
- deadhang full crimped very little to get used to the pain and the feeling of the lock;
- deadhang openhanded on BIG FAT SLOPERS that will take the whole hand, and all the fingers, just like real slopers do.
do also some tests with different holds, find out where you're better, team it to the kind of climbing you want to do and take your conclusions.
i hope this helps.

[dave]

By Max I mean 2-8 second hangs depending on where I am with a specific exercise.
I should of mentioned I hang from a 10mm edge and Always feel more comfortable crimped/half crimped.

Sounds as if open handed might be a personel weakness.

well i mean you're not on your own there, i never really deadhang cimped (bar the odd 1-arm hand) because compared to openhanding it always feels trivially easy. I would have though that possible a 10mm edge is a bit small maybe - my smallest edge is 1/2" (12.5mm), sanded a bit round on the edge, and even that does tend to bunch the skin/flesh up and get uncomfortable. maybe it would be better to use a bigger hold and add weight rather than the smaller hold?

[jed]

Thanks for the feedback.


That's the kind of info I was hoping for Nible it makes sense to deadhang half crimped predominantly and use a sloper for an openhanded exercise.

Reading back they seem dumb questions, but getting info from people with experience and who have made big gains this way is helpfull and reassuring that I'm making the most of my sessions.

I would of thought a first joint hold would be the best to train on as it reflects the sort hold I want to pull on outside(that's my logic anyway)

[Nibile]

yes, i got the opportunity to deadhang and campus on slopers only recently, and i've seen the difference!!!
so go on and enjoy!!!