Did a super classic 7c called Karma of Trees but the supposed 8a start from the right looked impossible. To span from the mono you need the span of king kong and to match the crappy edges in the middle seemed a lot harder than 8a, especially with the crappy feet. Any beta?
Impossible Si O problems? Surely not.
Had a few Q’s.Did a super classic 7c called Karma of Trees but the supposed 8a start from the right looked impossible. To span from the mono you need the span of king kong and to match the crappy edges in the middle seemed a lot harder than 8a, especially with the crappy feet. Any beta?
Torniquet was brilliant and whilst I didn’t quite do it I thought easy to middling 8a. Not sure what the consensus is?
Tried little women and failed to do 2 moves. Almost did the move to the crystal pocket but the move from the minuscule RH edge to the LH sidepull was beyond me. I could barely pull on. Now I’m not to shabby on RH crimps but this move was heinous and that’s after the start and fish which is no push over. This cannot be 8a+. It must be at least solid 8b and not the Swiss variety. Anyone repeated this or grade consensus.
As for Shadow Play & the direct to Torniquet they both looked impossible. They didn’t look like the hardest problems in the world. They looked impossible. The rock here does look friable so maybe holds have snapped. The 8a+ looked 8c and I couldn’t conceive a sequence. Am I missing something.
Finally there’s an overhanging prow at the bottom starting on a pocket, 7b or so I think. Says in the guide there’s a trick and whilst I flashed it, I could see no trick and just had to hang on real hard.
Was up in the Lakes recently and had a couple of sessions in Little Font. A beautiful little spot where as it said in Greg’s topo all the boulders had fallen just at the right point, angle and height to create this little area where normally those boulder ruckles just don’t quite work out.Had a few Q’s.Did a super classic 7c called Karma of Trees but the supposed 8a start from the right looked impossible. To span from the mono you need the span of king kong and to match the crappy edges in the middle seemed a lot harder than 8a, especially with the crappy feet. Any beta?
QuoteAs for Shadow Play & the direct to Torniquet they both looked impossible. They didn’t look like the hardest problems in the world. They looked impossible. The rock here does look friable so maybe holds have snapped. The 8a+ looked 8c and I couldn’t conceive a sequence. Am I missing something.As far as I know the 8a+, Re-invented Bright New Colour, starts kind of in the middle of nowhere by pulling on matched on a sideways flake then doing a single RH slap into the rail on Torniquet. A bit arbitary. Si O' original, given 8a+. Repeated by Gaskins, grade confirmed. Starting to notice a theme? Don't know anyone else who's tried it. As regards Shadowplay, nothing had broken last I visited in April (for a look while on a walk). The holds are very, very tiny, and there aren't any footholds. I went shortly after Gaskins did it and saw the holds with chalk on, and yes it did look like a joke. This is the problem that JohnnyG didn't publicise because of the Marcus Bock stuff, to play it down he deliberately gave it 8b+. He has since, at Greg's request, given it 8c. Quite obviously it is harder even than that. Actually I totally agree that it looks impossible, it is either a very elaborate hoax or evidence of how far ahead G was/is. I know what I believe............J.O.N.A.T.H.O.N.QuoteFinally there’s an overhanging prow at the bottom starting on a pocket, 7b or so I think. Says in the guide there’s a trick and whilst I flashed it, I could see no trick and just had to hang on real hard.I think the trick was to pull on and double dyno joker style to the lip, but we were young and weak when we did this one.
A theme? They both climb problems that others think are impossible? They both climb without witnesses? Also without evidence? When they, both, are seen climbing they don't live up to the hype? Is there really a theme Nigel? Oh, and I believe Jesus is spelt with an H in the middle.
Quote from: unclesomebody on July 03, 2008, 01:49:18 pmA theme? They both climb problems that others think are impossible? They both climb without witnesses? Also without evidence? When they, both, are seen climbing they don't live up to the hype? Is there really a theme Nigel? Oh, and I believe Jesus is spelt with an H in the middle. I take it you're applying this thematic rigour even handedly across the board and without bias? Surely you wouldn't be making wry observations about some, whilst idolising others?
I'm sure you know my previous post was in Jest... what's that song by the smiths?
I Started Something I Couldn't Finish?
Apologies Andy for causing a genuine thread to go so off topic.
