[moose]

I had a brief play on this over the weekend and surprised myself by linking a few moves together.  I can gain the two small pockets but the big slot seems an awfully long way away - any tips?

My sequence so far is:
- gain big sidepull with RH
- LH undercut on lip, sort feet out then LH again to far 2-finger pocket.
- RH to undercut on lip, get R heel wedged into jug under roof and drop RH onto the poor pocket / dink.
- hang off pockets looking confused, move LF to smear under roof..... fall off

Does this sequence seem okay for a start?  Is it just a case of "manning up" for a big lunge with the LH for the slot - if so where do folk put their feet?  And, after matching the slot what's the approved finish? Is it just a case of heading up and left by the easient means (using the break asap) or should you keep low for an extra move?

Any help muchly appreciated... I need a distraction from falling off the same move on Underhand every session (....LH to pocket, LF to dink, RF heel hook, RH to crimp on corner, try to get RH in good slot... feet cut loose.... roll down slope... repeat).

[uptown]

Try putting your right foot / toetops on that large sidepull and crossing to the slot...less power, more knack.

Image from YG. Does anyone know who the unknown climber is?

[moose]

So you get the RF toe-hook on whilst hanging the two small pockets?  Sounds good - I'd guess extracating the right heel from the jug under the roof will prove to be a tricksome.  Though there's good LF smear under the roof to push against, and I could just maybe get a left-foot toe hook in the vacated jug... although that might require double-jointed ankles?! 

Thanks for the beta - a toe-hook AND a cross-through... now that's proper climbing!  I anticipate a large number of tumbles down the slope, onto the path!

[Pantontino]

I had a brief play on this over the weekend and surprised myself by linking a few moves together.  I can gain the two small pockets but the big slot seems an awfully long way away - any tips?

My sequence so far is:
- gain big sidepull with RH
- LH undercut on lip, sort feet out then LH again to far 2-finger pocket.
- RH to undercut on lip, get R heel wedged into jug under roof and drop RH onto the poor pocket / dink.
- hang off pockets looking confused, move LF to smear under roof..... fall off

Does this sequence seem okay for a start?  Is it just a case of "manning up" for a big lunge with the LH for the slot - if so where do folk put their feet?  And, after matching the slot what's the approved finish? Is it just a case of heading up and left by the easient means (using the break asap) or should you keep low for an extra move?

Any help muchly appreciated... I need a distraction from falling off the same move on Underhand every session (....LH to pocket, LF to dink, RF heel hook, RH to crimp on corner, try to get RH in good slot... feet cut loose.... roll down slope... repeat).

I remember a funky cross over move - sorry can't be more specific; it's about 15 years ago.

When I first did it I finished the problem by staying low matching on a polished sloper, then going up a crack on the left IIRC. I think subsequently it was short cutted by those of little moral fibre. I actually fell off at the sloper on the link before the first ascent.

[jed]

Image from YG. Does anyone know who the unknown climber is?

I think its John ?(Scottish accent)
Briefly spoke to him a few years back

I know how you feel moose, underhand is a cruel mistress

[dave]

Any help muchly appreciated... I need a distraction from falling off the same move on Underhand every session (....LH to pocket, LF to dink, RF heel hook, RH to crimp on corner, try to get RH in good slot... feet cut loose.... roll down slope... repeat).

I was finding the same problem as you here, couldnt hold in well enough to stab RH into the bad blind slot, but then i pissed it once i sussed that from the "crimp on corner" for RH you can just slap out with LH for the jug on the nose, swing feet up left onto jugs to swing over and match and bob's your auntie.

[moose]

I was finding the same problem as you here, couldnt hold in well enough to stab RH into the bad blind slot, but then i pissed it once i sussed that from the "crimp on corner" for RH you can just slap out with LH for the jug on the nose, swing feet up left onto jugs to swing over and match and bob's your auntie.

God, I hope that's true! I have spent months trying to sustain the vague RF heel-hook whilst stabbing my RH from the "crimp on corner" in to the slot further along the crack - always feeling like I really needed another, nearer LF hold for body tension.  Especially frustrating as I had spent around a year falling off the move before that - hoping it was the crux (gettting the R heel to stick whilst moving the RH from the tiny, greasy 2-finger slot, to the corner).

Be a big old throw straight to the lip but its got to be worth a go..... so many projects..... so little talent..... 

[Andy B]

Any help muchly appreciated... I need a distraction from falling off the same move on Underhand every session (....LH to pocket, LF to dink, RF heel hook, RH to crimp on corner, try to get RH in good slot... feet cut loose.... roll down slope... repeat).

I was finding the same problem as you here, couldnt hold in well enough to stab RH into the bad blind slot, but then i pissed it once i sussed that I could lank past the hard moves.

[moose]

I was finding the same problem as you here, couldnt hold in well enough to stab RH into the bad blind slot, but then i pissed it once i sussed that I could lank past the hard moves.

Possibly true... though I'll reserve judgment until I've tried both methods.  Mind you, before dave's beta I was thinking it was a dwarf's-delight problem; I always wished for shorter legs that could be re-heelhooked further towards the corner.

[Andy B]

I wouldn't worry Moose, I was only jibing dave out of habit.

[dave]

banks loves to play the thalidomide card but he's actually a lot taller than his size would dictate and with an albatros-like span. i call him "the sunderland spanner".

[Andy B]

banks loves to play the thalidomide card but he's actually a lot taller than his size would dictate and with an albatros-like span. i call him "the sunderland spanner".

If that is true then it makes the fact that I stick to all the approved sequences on problems, rather than extending past hard moves and poor holds, all the more respectable. Unlike dave. i just call him "the spanner."

[dave]

I'm sure with your membership this winter you'll be "the spanner in The Works".

[Andy B]

You couldn't wrench me away from a good climbing wall.

[dave]

Especially when you live vernier.

[uptown]

Ok so I've just been out to check this for you Moose, and my last beta wasn't quite right... old age and that.
I'd never actually done the whole traverse either so well done for nudging me - it's rather good, and as Pants said, tricky to the slopey end.

Share jugs,
Lh to sidepull.
Rh to top of sidepull.
Lh undercut.
Lh dink pocket.
Sort feet - as in the photo for me but with my left foot next to the jug on sewer rat.
Lh to 3finger pocket (a castle hill stack helps for the next move)
Rf toes onto sidepull.
Rh dink pocket then pull up so your lf is hanging and cross...
Rh to 2finger pocket right of slot.
Lh slot.
etc...etc...

I also failed on underhand today... now where was that ultimate nemesis thread...

[tj]

Ey up all

Underhand- great problem, really good moves and surprisingly foot-work dependent. I'm 6' 2", so no bunched up lank excuses (damn!). Key beta for me was to really pull with L foot on the L end of the crimp in the roof (from LF dink, RF on arete, RH 2 finger openhand pocket); body weight to L. Then slapping RH to a slightly closer, slightly poorer but easier to hit hold in the break. The move to jugs w LH was fine.

[moose]

Ey up all
Underhand- great problem, really good moves and surprisingly foot-work dependent. I'm 6' 2", so no bunched up lank excuses (damn!). Key beta for me was to really pull with L foot on the L end of the crimp in the roof (from LF dink, RF on arete, RH 2 finger openhand pocket); body weight to L. Then slapping RH to a slightly closer, slightly poorer but easier to hit hold in the break. The move to jugs w LH was fine.

Re "pull with L foot on the L end of the crimp in the roof " - are you refering to one of the quite incut crimps that's slanted away from you, around half-way across the roof?  I've never been able to get any purchase from them. 

For the first hard move, shifting the RH from its greasy little 2-finger slot to the crimp/crack on the corner, I use a small "dink" in the roof for my LF that's quite far to the LHS - this enables me to really pull on the RF heel-hook.  Unfortunately the same LF hold is too far away to use when going again with the RH, to the slot further along the thin crack.  The LF and the RF heel-hook always rip halfway through the lunge.  I've tried using nearer stuff for the LF, hoping to keep the RF heel-hook in place, but none of it seems much good (most of the holds in the roof feel too close and slant away) - almost seems better to lunge and hope to get lucky.

[tj]

Yeah, that sounds like the one. The LF hold is smallish, but it's got a sharpish bit on the LH end of the crimp and I felt I could pull with it. Should've also said that once I have my RF heel-toeing the nick in the arete/break, and the LF on the crimp, my RH goes from the two-finger bit of the break to the pinch on the arete, then the bigger holds in the break. It feels really body position dependent, but when it goes, it feels alright.

[sjw]

  sorry! Underhand...I failed on that move for ages. SO...After I've got the RH pinch on arete and gone again to the big crimp above it in the break, I walk my left foot through on a hold close to the arete and then RF heel hook the big (pinch) dish on the arete. Flag LF and BOOOOOSH, cruise next move 

[namnok]

need to get onto this again, i was stuck on the cross over to the slot bit and failing to find the 'helpful' toehook...so bunched with my fat gut

thats my pic used there and should have asked the climber for his name but i was abt to leave so unfortunately didnt

[Steve R]

Are these problems not too conditions dependent then? What about Jess' Roof too, does it feel much harder midsummer?

[uptown]

Are these problems not too conditions dependent then? What about Jess' Roof too, does it feel much harder midsummer?

Top cat faces vaguely northwards so is usually shady - with a brisk wind, conditions can be fine at this time of year.
Underhand isn't so good unless breezy but I've not been on Jess' roof.
Teaspoon cave can be pretty good in the summer, as is black wall early in the day.

[cofe]

we did underhand this time last year. it was windy but generally fine.

[SA Chris]

What, windy, at Almscliff?