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Organ Grinder (split infinity) (Read 2492 times)

Jim

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Organ Grinder (split infinity)
June 27, 2008, 02:58:08 pm
How does this go?
was using right crimp (LH hold on belpig - is this in?) and throwing to hold on lip with LH. Do you then have to dyno to the finishing jug? tried it briefly but didn't make the distance as had to jump out pat the roof and couldn't get back in

BenF

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#1 Re: Organ Grinder (split infinity)
June 27, 2008, 03:13:07 pm
All sounds good to me.  On the one go that I stuck the lip when I tried it last weekend, I then got my rh on a sidepull sloper thing over the lip (in a yellow patch of rock half way from lip to next roof), worked my feet up, got my body high and got ready to grab the finishing jug with my right.  Unfortunately my foot then slipped on manky grease and I failed to get there again.  Will go back and do it in just that manner this weekend.  Hopefully.

Pantontino

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#2 Re: Organ Grinder (split infinity)
June 27, 2008, 04:24:48 pm
Hey Jim, good to see you showing love for the N Wales limestone. Last year it was Dense, he couldn't get enough of it.

On the set up for the lip move you just hold crimps in the break; your right hand is just left of the sidepull on Bellpig IIRC.There are two main methods for the finish. The original Phillip Stubbins dynamic lunge - when you get your left hand out to the rubbish slopey groove hold on the lip (this is quite a tricky move in itself), take a deep breath and jump for the top jug in one unlikely sweeping lunge. Actually quite effective, especially for the taller gentleman or lady, however the line of trajectory is critical - you almost need to contour the rock as you move.

The 2nd standard method is to put a heel hook in on the left and bring your right hand out to a poor diaganol sloper about 30cm above the lip, then find a comfortable foot position that allows you to snatch the jug. Make sure you've got a spotter for this method as there is a danger of an unexpected and explosive dismount.

There is a hybrid method that works for tall climbers: do the latter, but go again with your right hand to the slopey ramp hold on Bellpig, then either place a scary heelhook on the same hold and go static to the jug with your right, or just jump and grab without the high heel hook.

Class problem!


Doylo

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#3 Re: Organ Grinder (split infinity)
June 27, 2008, 04:27:50 pm
reckon the double heel clamp is the way to go

Jim

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#4 Re: Organ Grinder (split infinity)
June 28, 2008, 08:19:24 pm
cheers. so is the sidepull/thumb crimp hold on belpig out for this?

Doylo

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#5 Re: Organ Grinder (split infinity)
June 28, 2008, 09:06:35 pm
cheers. so is the sidepull/thumb crimp hold on belpig out for this?

nothings out, its not stoney

 

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