I think Dave Cowl is brutally strong, see how he does it on the video on Yorkshire Grit.
Quote from: richdraws on June 21, 2008, 08:49:41 pmI think Dave Cowl is brutally strong, see how he does it on the video on Yorkshire Grit.
For the very first hand movements I have both legs out to the LHS of the arete - LF on the obvious heel hook, RF smearing under the lip. I keep that left heel in place for the next few moves after that too - just keep on slapping until I can get my RF properly under me and turn the left-heel into a toe..
I think Dave Cowl is quite tall, see how he does it on the video on Yorkshire Grit. The way I did it is left heel on rock right over it with my right leg flagging out to the right hand side of the blunt arete. I seem to remember figuring the first move out to be quite tricky then once you have the feel for it its relatively easy. http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/video.html?id=almscliff__si_arete&n=0Good luck
Quote from: GCW on June 21, 2008, 09:04:20 pmQuote from: richdraws on June 21, 2008, 08:49:41 pmI think Dave Cowl is brutally strong, see how he does it on the video on Yorkshire Grit. Dave is a robot sent back from the future to hug fridges.
Funny that, everyone in yorkshire has their own style: Dave Cowl hugs fridges, Nige Poustie does eliminate lip traverses, Andy Swann does 8as and calls them 7b...
Thanks, if I try and do it like in the vid, I just cant seem to spread my legs (!?) wide enough arond the arete - so I've been trying it like this (shamelessly cribbed from yorkshiregrit.com) - is this what you meant Moose?
I'm also fairly tall (6'3"ish) and found this really awkward until I worked out a sequence. That said, I've never seen anyone else do it the same way, so it may be fairly specific to my height and weakness.I start cross-handed with my left heel on and right foot flagged underneath. Pull on and get crimp for left hand and gritty bit on the arete for the right hand. Move right foot round the arete (not really doing much with it) and then rockover your left heel and lean away from the right hand on the arete. Once you get into a stable position (the awkward bit), reach for the top crimp with your left and finish fairly easily.
However my technical tweek was to eschew the heel altogether and attack in a toe on style from the outset thus negating the requirement for tricky mid problem foot based shilly-shallying.
It's described as a sit start, that's what I did. I tried the move from the pocket, going straight to the high RH edge but pulling on is viscious.
UpTownGuerilla.
watch out for the Almscliff ethics police...
Nice opening sequence too...